Modern Sewing Starts Here Edition 5

Edition 5 – July 2019
Modern
sewing
starts here...
RAYON
A popular fabric
choice for Summer
Make the
most of your
summer
sewing here
Introducing...
The first capsule
pattern collection
from Closet Case
La Boheme skirt by Vanessa Pouzet made by
Alexis Wright using fabric from the Art Gallery
Fabric collection – Everlasting by Sharon Holland
www.modernsewingstartshere.co.uk
www.hantex.co.uk 1

Editor’s Letter
Hello
The first half of this year has just flown by, and life just seems to get faster and faster
but when it comes to sewing, it’s a chance to slow down the pace and loose yourself
in something you love to do. In this issue, there really is something for every type
of stitcher out there.
If you want to start sewing your own clothes, we’ve put a page together for
you of patterns that are suitable for beginners (page 5). Sarah Ashford shares
some of her tips for keeping your sewing room organised (page 8) and Trudi
Woods discusses free-motion quilting (page 9). Also not to be missed is our
interview with Susanne Firmenich, the surface pattern designer behind the
popular German brand Hamburger Liebe (page 12). Rayon is a currently
popular fabric choice with sewers – Julie Bonnar talks about how to sew with
this soft drape fabric (page 11).
Happy stitching!
Hantex
www.hantex.co.uk
www.modernsewingstartshere.co.uk
Subscribe free to get your copy – click here
WIN WIN WIN!
Closet Case has created its first capsule
collection of sewing patterns. To celebrate
we’ve 3 sets of each of the sewing
patterns that make up this wardrobe
collection to give away! Pietra Pants &
Shorts, Fiore Skirt and Cielo Top & Dress
with a retail price of £48.
For a chance to win one of the sets
– click here to enter
Closing date is 30th August 2019
QUILTING PATTERNS AT THEIR BEST
Quilter’s love Elizabeth Hartman’s patterns, and
they are consistently ranked among our best selling
quilt patterns. Have fun with the three latest designs
featuring lemurs, animals from the Savanna and
tropical leaves.
The designs are made with conventional patchwork
techniques, and there’s no templates or paper
piecing! They’re perfect for using with fat quarters, fat
eights and 10in pre-cut squares.
To view these three new patterns and others from
Elizabeth Hartman – click here
Alison Glass’s patterns use colour in a unique way to create
amazing colourful quilts. The three new striking patterns to join
the line up are the Aura, Solstice and North Quilt.
The Aura quilt explores shape and colour, while Solstice will
vary in style depending on placement, and the fabric you choose.
This quilt also has two size options and colour layout styles. And
the North features a contemporary compass quilt.
All three patterns feature foundation paper piecing techniques
and include the block template, detailed instructions, and a
colouring page.
To take a look at Alison Glass Quilt Patterns – click here
#modernsewingstartshere

Pick of the
PATTERNS
New sewing pattern releases that you’ll
want to make
THE LONG AND THE SHORT OF IT!
The Shelby pattern is a princess-seamed dress and romper/playsuit
that has four stylish options. Each has a V-shaped neckline, front button
opening, and back waist tie.
Views A and B are dresses with short sleeves offering a mid-thigh mini or
ankle-skimming lengths. Views C and D are playsuits with cap sleeves that
gives the illusion of a dress but with the coverage of shorts/trousers.
To find out more about the Shelby Dress & Romper from True Bias –
click here
FEMININE V-NECK
Jalie has just released a collection of 12
new patterns including the Alice V-neck
blouse. This feminine semi-fitted top is
comfortable to wear as it has more ease
around the waist. The V-neck is neatly
finished with facing, and there’s a cap
sleeve and optional keyhole back. The
diagonal seaming makes this top a bit
special allowing you to do some fun
colour blocking and create a mock
crossover effect.
To find out more about the all the new
sewing patterns from Jalie – click here
SOAK UP THE SUN
Cashmerette has just brought out the
lovely sundress, Holyoke, which says
goodbye to bust gaping thanks to its
princess seams and faux placket. This
sophisticated maxi dress has built-in
comfort courtesy of the back-elasticated
waistband, and your bra straps are
hidden with the carefully designed straps.
Whether made up in a floaty rayon challis
or sumptuous linen – this sewing pattern
will keep you looking cool all summer long.
The pattern comes in sizes 12-28, with
cup sizes C to H, and can be made as a
full-length skirt too.
To take a closer look at this Cashmerette
sewing pattern – click here
Check out the free-to-use resource listing of the very best Indie patterns and filter by fabric, garment, brand
or skill level by visiting www.hantex.co.uk

Sewing that’s
made
4 sewing patterns that are ideal for
beginners but also are quick makes
for your holiday wardrobe
1First capsule pattern collection
Inspired by a trip to Rome, Heather, the designer
behind Closet Case Patterns has created the brand’s
first capsule collection. Rome is designed as a chic
capsule wardrobe, and is filled with simple to make
and gorgeous to wear pieces that pair effortlessly with one
another. Each pattern has been thoughtfully designed with
beginners in mind, and is filled with enough interesting design
details and variations to entice more advanced sewers too.
The collection includes three versatile sewing patterns – Pietra
Pants & Shorts, Fiore Skirt and Cielo Top & Dress. All of the new
patterns can be made with a wide variety of fabrics such as crisp
wovens like linen, chambray, light to medium weight cottons, and
drapey fabrics like rayon challis, silk and tencel.
To view more options from this versatile capsule collection from
Closet Case – click here
2
The choice is yours!
The Uniform Tunic has
been designed so you are
in control of how this top
will finally look! Grainline
Studio has provided four fab
options for you to sew so
that the styling is endless. All
the design features can be
mixed and matched so you
can choose your favourite
neckline, select the right
sleeve for you, as well as add
the much-needed pockets –
you can’t really go wrong!
To find out more about the
Uniform Tunic – click here
3
Quick and easy
This lovely breezy tank
and dress from Jalie
has a rounded V-neck
and shoulder straps,
which are wide enough to cover
your bra. The dress has a doublelayer
style that allows you to
use sheer fabrics in your stash
while the tank option has a
facing for opaque fabrics.
The dress has a bodice with
a roomy above-knee skirt
with pockets that starts just
above natural waist. It’s
perfect for making in lightwoven
fabrics with a soft
hand and nice drape. The
pattern includes 28 sizes.
For more details about
the Michelle Tanks and Dress
– click here
4
My first skirt
The Rae skirt is designed for true beginners, so
if you can work a sewing machine and follow
directions you can make this skirt! Sewaholic
developed this pattern in collaboration with a local
sewing instructor. Designed as a very first sewing project for
practicising sewing and finishing seams, and with vertical seams
along the front back and sides of the skirt to create a better fit,
and more flattering silhouette than a rectangle-shaped elastic
skirt. This beginner-level project will be a garment that you’ll
actually want to wear!
To view the Rae skirt pattern – click here

Scarf-like prints
Brazilian-born sewing blogger, Rachel Pinheiro, shares her
ideas for how you can incorporate the scarf print trend into
your sewing
THE TREND:
Scarf print
When you think of scarf prints – paisley,
chains, ornate baroque and modified
florals spring to mind. The scarf print
design was introduced by Versace
in the ’90s but you can also take
inspiration from Richard Quinn, Toga,
Salvatore Ferragamo, Marni, Loewe,
Jonathan Anderson and Chloe, just to
name a few designers that are rocking
the scarf look this season.
This summer is all about earthy hues
and tonal combinations so if you want
to sew something trendy that will spill
over to Autumn, look no further than
the scarf print trend.
Creating the look
To showcase this trend – I’ve chosen
this vibrant earthy-print fabric, which
moves away from traditional floral
prints, and a bohemian vibe maxi wrap
dress pattern.
The best sewing patterns for this
trend are those that are designed to
make with drapey floaty fabrics. It’s
not necessarily a loose silhouette, but
should be a design that allows the
fabric to move with you. Silk is the
fabric most of us associated with scarfs,
and will give your garment an airy feel
and make your piece really special.
However if you substitute it with a
fabric that’s a lot easier to wear and
care for, you’ll have a dress that you
can wear every day – rayon fits the
bill perfectly!
If you’re usually print-shy, then ease
your way into this statement trend by
making less fabric-hungry garments
like a boxy blouse. An easy way to
incorporate this trend is to also tone
it down and use the print as accent
areas only such as yokes and straps.
However if you’re feeling brave – go
for maximum impact and create a
matching scarf to wrap over your head.
“This style represents easy
dressing without having to try too
hard and makes me feel like I’m
ready for a holiday!”
Project thoughts
Other complementary trends that work
well with the scarf print are tie-dye
and fringing. I plan styling my scarf
print dress for autumn by adding long
boots, a camel coat or trench, and
accessorising with gold jewellery and a
block colour tote bag.
Editor’s notes
The fabric Rachel used was Aloha Spirit Bonfire in
100% rayon from the Aura fabric collection designed
by Mister Domestic for Art Gallery Fabric
To view the full selection of rayon fabrics – click here
The Highlands Wrap Dress from Allie Olson is the dress pattern featured here.
To view - click here

Trendsetter
All the trimmings
It can be hard to decide how to add the current trends to your wardrobe
without over doing it. Here’s how to make 5 of them work for you
Embroidery
Adding embroidery is still as popular as it was
last year, and can allow you to really show off
your creativity. Why not try adding embroidery
to a simple garment on the shoulders, sleeves,
hemline or collar. Get a similar effect with an appliqué
design like the one shown on this knit essential top
sewing pattern from Alison Glass.
To view the Knit Essentials dress pattern from Alison
Glass – click here
Selma round crochet bag from
Monsoon & New Look mustard
crochet block heels
Crochet
The crochet trend is definitely
a trend that’s more suited to
the warmer months. We’re
seeing it on everything from
beach to eveningwear but
probably the easiest way to
add it to your wardrobe is in
the form of a summery bag or
pair of sandals.
Peruvian Florals
Tunic from Joe
Brown
Fringing
You can find a fringe on just about everything from
a denim jacket, boots, bags and even earrings. We
think this trimming looks best with simple styling
and in the same colour as the garment for a stylish
look. Give it a go and add some fringing to a skirt or jacket.
Fabric from AGF’s Everlasting
fabric collection
Patchwork
Designers are reviving
this ’60s trend. You can
introduce it to your
wardrobe by making
your own patchwork
fabric for using with a sewing pattern or if you want a quicker
make then choose a patchwork design fabric. This trend will
work best with a simple colour palette or alternatively, select
sewing patterns with fewer pieces such as a skirt or shift dress.
Bows
Big bows have certainly been a bigger catwalk
hit than on the high street but there’s no reason
you can’t bring the bow trend to your day-today
wardrobe on a smaller scale. Bows can make
garments feel very romantic or why not use up those scraps of
fabric and use them as a brooch or hair decoration.
Two sewing patterns with bows:
Pussy Bow Blouse from Sew Over It – click here
Seoul Blouse from Sew to Grow – click here

TOP TIPS
for organising your
sewing space
Sarah Ashford, obsessive quilter and fabric lover shares her top five
tips to help you keep your sewing space organised and allow for
maximum creativity!
1Keep your
workspace clear
I like to try to keep
a space clear for my
cutting mat, so that I can
easily spread and cut out
fabric. There’s nothing worse
than having to clear a whole
pile of stuff or try to cut fabric
with lots of things in your
way. This is often easier said
than done, but if you are
strict that your cutting mat is
a ‘no clutter zone’ you will
soon appreciate the ability to
spread your projects out and
cut quickly and effortlessly.
2Get your fabric
organised
I organise my
fabrics by size, and
then colour. For example,
anything half a metre or more
is wrapped around an acid
free comic book board and
stored in the bookcase. This
makes me feel like I have my
own personal shop! They are
also roughly colour-coded,
which makes it very easy to
find what I’m looking for.
Fat quarters are folded and
stored in trays for quick, easy
access. Fabric bundles that I
want to keep all together I tie
with ribbon and keep either
on the shelf looking pretty
or in a draw. Scraps live in a
bucket, and I just tip them
out when I want to use them.
It’s messy but fun, and often
I’ll put fabrics together that I
may never have considered
before. I always put them
back afterwards though!
3Have a system
for your WIPS
As someone who
has multiple projects
on the go, it’s so important
to keep in order, and not
get things muddled up. I
like to keep WIPs (work in
progress) in project pouches
so that when I want to work
on a particular WIP I can just
pull it off the shelf and it’s
all in there ready to go. This
also works really well if I’m
travelling or going to a guild
meeting – I can just pick up
the project pouch that I need,
get my sewing essentials
together and off I go.
4
Keep notions
close to you
It’s always useful to
have the notions
that you use all the time in
one place, and I really like
If there’s one thing that helps me with
productivity, it’s having a tidy and
organised sewing space. I like to be
able to find things quickly, keep my
workspace tidy and have a system for
my burgeoning fabric collection
my Stash ‘n Store for this.
I love that I can just easily
grab my scissors or unpicker
whenever I need it, and it’s so
easy to return it once you’ve
finished using it. No longer
am I hunting high and low for
those essential sewing items
that I use all
the time.
5
Pass it on
It’s always a good
idea to have a clear
out from time to
time. If you don’t want it or
need it anymore, either sell
it or pass it on. Often sewing
groups or guilds have a ‘swap
table’ where you can donate
unwanted fabric, and then
receive some ‘new’ fabric in
return. It’s a win-win situation
for everyone, and if you’ve
had a tidy up of your sewing
room at the same time –
even better!
So that’s how I organise my
sewing space, and I find that
it works for me. I hope that
it encourages you to have
a clear out, get sorted and
create a happy, productive
sewing space so that you can
enjoy the process of making
beautiful things!

FREE MOTION
QUILTING
Just the mention of free-motion quilting (FMQ) can bring the most rational
person out in a cold sweat. Trudi Wood, patchwork and quilting tutor aims to
take away some of the fears you have, starting with the fundamentals
Threads
Not all thread is created
equal, and your machine may
be a thread snob! Personally,
I favour a good quality
cotton thread that I know my
machine likes. Yes, there is a
popular brand of thread that
none of my machines will
play nicely with!
The important thing to
know is the type and size
of the threads. Cotton or
polyester – all threads come
in different weights (wt),
anything from 12wt to 100
wt. A Standard weight is
50wt or 40wt. All you need
to know is the bigger the
number the finer the thread.
Needles
Use a good quality needle.
I use a Schmetz topstitch
needle as it has a bigger
elongated eye for the thread
to pass through (and is easier
to see). It also has a groove
down the front of the shank
to guide the thread through.
This needle also has a
sharper point than a
universal needle.
Needles come in different
sizes, however, the bigger
the numbers the bigger the
needle. You should
be matching your needle
to your thread and
changing it regularly. There’s
excellent information on
needletypes and sizes on
the Schmetz website – www.
schmetzneedles.com/needleguide.
Wadding
There are many waddings
to choose from depending
on your project, budget and
personal preference. Choose
the right one for the project
you’re working on.
Be aware that there’s a
right way and a wrong way
up for some wadding. The
way to tell is using a machine
needle, and carefully stab
the wadding on both sides
to find the path of least
resistance – this will be the
right way up. This helps
for cotton and cotton rich
waddings. It means your
machine is not working so
hard to push the needle
through, and therefore it will
feel smother as you quilt.
Basting
Layer up fabrics with backing
face down, wadding then main
fabric right side up. Whether
you choose to pin baste using
basing pins, safety pins or glue
baste (Using a spray is your
personal preference). If you
are spray basting try pressing
from fabric side and a cool/
medium iron setting to smooth
out the wrinkles before moving
onto the next layer. Only
recommended for cotton rich
wadding. Repeat this with the
top. Not only will you have a
much flatter smoother quilt
sandwich, it activates the glue
too.
If pin basting – pins should
be spread and hands width
apart and bear in mind it will
take a lot of pins for a bedside
quilt.
Sewing Machine
Clean and oil your machine
regularly (consult your
manual on how to do this). It’s
important that lint is removed
from the machine’s workings
regularly as the build up can
affect tension and cause
problems when stitching.

If you’re having problems,
check your machine is
threaded properly and that
the bobbin is in correctly. If
you’re having problems with
skipped stitched, change
your needle and also try
changing your thread to a
different manufacturer, it
really can make a difference!
Let’s start with a
practice piece
Remember, Rome wasn’t built
in a day, and you didn’t learn
to write your name in half an
hour so practice is the key
word here! When you start
quilting, use the needle to
pull up the bobbin thread
and hold onto the top thread,
press the needle up/down
button or wind the needle up
and down once with the fly
wheel on the machine.
This will pull up your
bobbin thread so you move
it to one side and place the
needle in the same spot as
the thread before starting
to quilt. Hold onto the
threads as you begin to sew
just lightly, this will stop the
dreaded birds nests from
appearing under your work.
Sew in threads when finished.
Designs
‘Quilt as desired’ the words
of terror! Choose a design
that’s beginner friendly like
loops. These are easy to do
and with every crossover
point is an opportunity to
stop with the needle down
and assess where you’re
going and how you’re going
to get there. They’re a great
design to join one motif to
the next too. There are some
great books for inspiration,
my particular favourites are
by Christina Cameli. Her
books are packed full of
designs and directions on
how to quilt them out.
At the end of the day, it’s
all about the practice, so start
with a charity quilt or a small
project that you’ve been
meaning to finish. You’ll soon
find your skills improve.
TOP TIPS
Using
geometric fabrics
will give you
guidelines of
where to quilt.
Start by
practicing your
designs on paper.
If you feel more
comfortable,
make a plan of
the quilting.
Pre-wind
several bobbins
so you don’t have
to stop half way
through your project. Your thread should look as pretty
on your bobbin as it did on the spool. Don’t use an
uneven bobbin as it will cause more problems than
it’s worth!
Layer up a practice sandwich piece. This will help
you to get used to the right working speed for you, and
you’ll be able to get confident with the design.
A patterned back can help disguise any mishaps or
tension issues.
Use matching threads as they’re more forgiving than
a thread that shouts out at you.
Start off slowly, it’s easier to control your work if you
slow your machine speed down. Learn to listen to your
machine sound to help remember where that speed is
for you.
Wear gloves to help you grip the fabric. A non-slip
draw liner can also do the same job.
Take regular breaks, work in small sections of time,
and pace yourself.
And finally give yourself permission to play and
have fun!

Raise your game
with rayon
Julie Bonnar from The Pattern Pages shares her tips on sewing
garments with the fabric of the moment – rayon
What is rayon?
Rayon is a beautifully soft,
drapey, breathable fibre,
which is perfect for making
flowing garments.
Since rayon is
manufactured from naturally
occurring polymers, it is not
considered to be synthetic.
Like most fabric types –
you’ll find good and bad
when buying so make sure
you choose a premium
smooth one that doesn’t
snag.
If you haven’t worked with
rayon before – here are my
tips for working and sewing
with them.
Choosing a
sewing pattern
Start with a simple pattern
that requires a little amount
of fabric, so you can build
up your confidence. Pick
a pattern that has a good
drape I chose the Ogden
Cami from True Bias.
Pre-washing
Rayon is colourfast but can
shrink so always pre-wash.
Rayon can be machined wash
and tumble dried. Wash on a
warm temperature, and dry
on a medium heat. To see
what the shrinkage rate is –
you can test a small sample
while pre-washing.
Cut a 5in square on
gridded paper or plain paper
is fine too. Use this as a
template to cut a square of
fabric the same size, which
you can compare after
washing. The fabric I’m using
is ‘Let’s Chalk from AGF
Joyful Fusion’ and as you can
see from the photo, there
really was minimal shrinkage.
Cutting your fabric
The main aim is to stop your
fabric shifting around – there
are several things you can do:
Place a piece of tissue
paper underneath the fabric/
pattern to help it stay put on
the cutting surface.
I use pattern weights rather
than pins, but if you prefer
to use pins choose sharp fine
tipped ones, as these are
less likely to leave holes in
delicate fabrics. Always pin in
the seam allowance.
I like to use my scissors to
cut out – make sure your pair
is super sharp – but you may
find it easier to use a cutting
board and rotary cutter.
Cut your pattern out on
the floor if you’re working on
larger projects to avoid the
fabric hanging off the table.
Minimise any stretching by
storing your cut out fabric
pattern pieces by rolling
them up.
Sewing your garment
Tes your sewing machine
tension on a fabric scrap.
I’m guilty of skipping
pinning the fabric together
when sewing pieces with
straight seams, but with rayon
you really should secure the
fabric layers.
Rayon can stretch out of
shape when sewing so make
sure you avoid pulling the
fabric whilst you sew! Stop
sewing to re-adjust your
fabric at regular intervals.
Stay stitching is key is
to helping necklines stay
in shape.
Choose a fusible sheerweight
interfacing so it
doesn’t affect your fabric’s
drape. Silk organza is
recommendd for this.
As rayon is prone to
fraying, finish your raw edges
properly. French seams are a
good choice.
Use a new needles size
65/9 or 70/10 for thin,
lightweight wovens.
Use a delicate stitch such
as 2mm stitch instead of the
automatic 2.5mm. This can
help with any fraying going
beyond the seam.
Remember to match
the thread weight to your
fabric weight.
Pressing
When ironing, lift your
iron and press. Rayon is a
sensitive fabric and if the iron
is too hot it can leave a shiny
mark, which you won’t be
able to get off. Use the wool
setting and a pressing cloth.
Always let your fabric rest
and cool before removing
from the ironing table.
Hemming
It’s a good idea to hang
up your garment for a day
before hemming it.
Art Gallery Fabrics,
Modelo and Cloud9 do
beautiful rayons that
come in vibrant colours
and patterns, and are
great for making clothes.
To view these – click here
Flower keeper
from AGF
Everlasting
Editor from
Cloud9
Business
Class
Let’s Chalk from
AGF Joyful Fusion

Susanne Firmenich is a surface pattern
designer with a passion for life and
colour. She has a huge following in
Germany but is fairly new to the UK
market, but is no shrinking violet when
it comes to colour. We talk to her about
her beautiful designs
Tell us a little about your
background and how
you began designing
surface patterns?
As a child I have always loved
to paint and draw. When my
own children were small, I
started sewing again. I quickly
realised that there were no
fancy patterns for children.
On my blog (hamburgerliebe.
com), I started showing
illustrations that I’d made just
for fun. I received an inquiry
for the design for embroidery
files first, and then later for
woven ribbons.
Then I discovered
Spoonflower, a print on
demand service for fabric
in the US, and I began to
design my own patterns.
At that time, I worked as a
freelance graphic designer
and often found the work
frustrating. I enjoyed sewing
and illustrating so I decided
to only create beautiful
patterns for fabrics.
Do you have the fabric
in mind when you
are thinking of a new
design? And what
comes first the fabric
or the pattern?
Usually I have an idea for a
certain colour combination,
as well as a motif or theme.
The design comes later. And
when I’m happy with the
pattern, I think about how
it could look on fabric. But
sometimes, I want a certain
fabric and then think about a
pattern that’s especially
for that.
Your designs aesthetics
are always bright, fun
and entertaining – what
inspires you?
Basically everything! I’m
a very visual person and
find everything I encounter
inspiring! It can be a beautiful
packaging, nature, my
children, a holiday trip or
certain mood lighting.
There are still so many
ideas in my head and
sometimes I wish I had more
time to draw everything I
can think of!

How many collections
have you produced
under the Hamburger
Liebe brand?
Honestly, I didn’t count them!
I started with textile design
eight years ago, and have
been able to create so many
wonderful collections with my
production partners. And of
course, there are always new
ones to come!
My newest collection with
Albstoffe is called ‘Bliss’ and
will be available in the UK
later this year. This autumnwinter
collection contains
wonderful organic jacquards
and prints on organic jersey
and sweatshirt, all produced
in Germany, with matching
cuff, stripes and hoodie
cords.
My autumn-winter
collection for Hemmers Itex
will be called ‘Park Lane’
and will be distributed
exclusively by Hantex Ltd.
It’s a tribute to my time in
London as a young adult.
There will be softshell and
quilted to make warm
jackets, but also beautiful
soft falling blouse fabrics and
embroidered cotton fabrics.
I’m really looking forward
to both these collections
launches. And some designs
for next year are already
finished – and it all stays
very colourful!
What sort of things do
you like to sew?
I love sewing clothes, but
I’m impatient stitcher and
like sewing patterns that are
quick to make!
Tell us about
your collaboration
with Albstoffe?
I’ve been working with
Albstoffe for three years
now, and I think the team
has adopted me! Seriously,
this is a very lovely and
fruitful collaboration, and
I really love the products.
Albstoffe is a young
company, and they were
looking for a designer, and
so glad they asked me!
Albstoffe has emerged
from a traditional family
business producing knitted
fabrics to the highest
organic standards. It took
me a while to deal with the
jacquard fabric as the design
works differently. You have
much less colours than with
printing, because you knit
with the coloured yarns. But
we constantly exchange new
ideas and have brought some
very successful products to
the market together in the
recent years. The ready-made
cuffs called ‘Cuff Me’ are just
one of them.
Where else can we see
your designs?
My most beautiful designs can
be bought in my Redbubble
Shop on a range of products
such a mobile phone cases.
On the website, Not Like You
– you can buy some of my
designs on Converse chucks,
which I think are really cool!
Someday, I’d love to design
my own tableware, too!

CLASSIC, FEMININE AND NATURAL….
This is how Sharon Holland describes her new Art Gallery
Fabric collection ‘Everlasting’, which was inspired by her
daughter’s wedding and her childhood memories. It’s the first
looks exchanged, promises of love that are always kept and
the ritual of marriage and family traditions – this is what the
collection celebrates. This eternally classic colour story brings
together heart red, creamy ivory and, of course – something
blue. Available in knit and rayon options too.
To take a closer look at this beautiful fabric collection –
click here
Focus on
FABRICS
Feast your eyes on the latest
fabrics for your summer sewing
A FREE VERSE OF
PAINTERLY PRINTS
Bloomsbury is a fabric range
designed by Bari J., and an ode
to the group of artists and writers
who met in the Bloomsbury area
of London in the early 1900s
who discussed art, writing and
philosophy. Bari J. imagines what
would surround such luminaries
as Virginia Woolf, and her
sister Vanessa who was a postimpressionist
painter. The images
become vivid in tones of fuchsia,
teal, and fresh green and the
collection includes knits, canvas
and rayon options.
To view all the Bloomsbury
collection from Art Gallery Fabric –
click here

STOCKBRIDGE
This is the latest fabric collection for
Cloud9 from surface pattern designer,
Feena Brooks. Her designs are inspired
by her travels and quirky England
influences. All of her designs are named
after places (mostly in Britain), and many
are places that hold special memories
from my childhood. Stockbridge is a
collection that celebrates the woodland
and flora of Hampshire, UK. The palette
is suffused with rich, vibrant greens,
soft pinks and blues and the shock
of golden yellow. This 100% organic
quilters weight cotton range is perfect
for quilting, dressmaking and other
accessory projects.
To view this lovely subtle colour
collection – click here
AMAZING TO THE TOUCH
The new 100% rayons from Modelo are perfect for summer
tops, dresses, and skirts with a floaty 120gsm weight. It’s
available in two very popular colour ways of red and navy, as
well as, two choices of designs including circle print and circle
patchwork – what’s not to love?
To take a closer look at Modelo rayons – click here
CATCH OF THE DAY
You can rely on Mister Domestic to come up with fun
designs for your sewing projects. The Catch and Release
fabric range that Matthew has designed for Art Gallery
Fabrics illustrates the place where his family goes to fish
and enjoy nature. Multiple shades of blue create this
refreshing collection with touches of green and a few drops
of ladybug red. The range also includes knit and rayon
options.
To see more of the fun designs within this collection –
click here
The illustrations are from the popular Lark Tee and Alder shirtdress sewing patterns from Grainline and Free Range Slacks from Sew House Seven

Slouchy
BAG
I love receiving fabric samples for
appraisal, and one recently reached
my desk screaming ‘Make me into an
oversized slouchy bag’ … so I did!
Designed by Jacqui Smith
What really appealed to me was the
wonderful metallic and pearlescent
colours of this new faux leather range by
Modelo. It’s super soft and to my surprise
was incredibly easy-to-sew due to a fabric
backing, which also gives great stability.
So for an on-trend, super-easy fashion
accessory that you can make yourself here
are the instructions that use just two pieces
joined at the centre-front and back.

Requirements:
Main fabric - 60 x140cm
wide faux leather
Lining fabric - 85
x115cm wide cotton
1 magnetic clasp (sewon
or push-through)
Light weight iron-on
interfacing, approx 7.5 x
3.5cm (3 x 1½in)
Matching thread and
contrasting thread for
topstitching
Quilting clips
Paper for pattern at
least 85 x 70cm (34 x 24in)
To sew the bag:
1. Place bag pieces in main
fabric right sides together,
and sew the centre front and
back seams. Open out the
seams, and topstitch from the
right side of the fabric – I did
two rows on both sides of the
seam in a contrasting colour.
2. Repeat this process for the
lining. Sew centre back seam
on lining, right sides together.
3. Make pocket by folding
the square in half, and with
right sides together make a
rectangle 25 x 11cm (9¾ x
4½in), sew along both the
short edges. Trim corners and
turn right way out.
4. Using a quilting ruler mark
the placement for the internal
pocket on the right side of the
bag lining. Mark a line at right
angles to the centre back
seam 16cm (6¼in) down from
the top edge, 12cm (4½in) to
each side of the centre seam.
5. Place the pocket with the
raw edge to the line you’ve
marked with the pocket
facing downwards. Sew from
one side of the pocket to
the other with a 1cm seam,
backstitching at each end to
secure the seam.
Fold and press the pocket
upwards. Stitch up both sides
of the pocket to secure in
place – you may also wish
to sew a divider to make two
smaller pockets.
To make the pattern:
Visit www.modernsewingstartshere.com/slouchy-bag to download the template.
Fold paper in half to make 85 x 30cm (34 x 12in)
Draw the pattern out as per diagram measurements with the long straight side against
the fold. Cut out and open up to make the pattern.
Cut out two from both the faux leather and the cotton lining fabric. No need to worry
about right or wrong sides as both pattern pieces are the same. You’ll also need to cut
out a pocket in the lining fabric 25 x 22cm (9¾ x 8 ¾in).
Seam allowance is 1cm
There is enough fabric left to make a matching pouch (see instructions in the next issue).
6. With right sides together
sew the centre front seam of
the bag lining. Fold the main
bag right sides together with
the centre front and back
seams matching. Sew the
bottom of the bag. Repeat
for the bag lining leaving a
gap open on one side of the
centre seam of around 10cm
(4in) to turn the bag.
7. You now need to ‘bag’
the bag bottom to make the
shaping. To do this take the
bag outer and firstly trim
the corner off both ends of
the bottom seam. Fold the
corner right sides together so
that the seam on the bottom
matches the side of the bag,
this should make a triangle
with the bottom seam.
8. Using a quilting ruler make
a line across the triangle at
right angles to the bottom
seam 3.5cm (1½in) on either
side of the seam and stitch
securing the stitching at both
ends. Trim the triangle off
leaving a seam allowance of
1cm. Repeat for all corners of
the leather and lining.
9. Cut the iron-on interfacing
in half to make two small
squares, and fuse these to
the wrong side of the lining
across the centre front and
back seams approx 2cm (¾in)
down from the top edge.
This will provide support for
the magnetic clasps. Fix the
clasps onto the lining right
side over the interfaced
square making sure they are
an equal distance from the
top edge of the bag.
10. Turn bag inside out
and place the lining inside
it with right side facing.
Matching centre front and
back seams, clip edges
together and sew the bag
and lining together. Always
use clips rather than pins for
faux leather as pins can mark
the fabric.
11. Clip seam allowances
around the curves and turn
the bag to the right sides
through the lining opening.
Topstitch edges.
12. Sew the handles together
by sewing them right
sides together about 4cm
(1½in) from the ends of the
handles. Trim one handle
seam allowance to approx
1cm. Fold the other seam
allowance in half and put
the raw edge inside, then
topstitch across the handle to
secure. Slip stitch the gap in
the bottom of the lining. Your
bag is now finished...enjoy!
Sewing with faux leather:
The Modelo faux leather used
here is available in a great
range of colours including
metallic and pearl finishes. It
has a woven fabric backing,
which sews really well with a
normal machine foot.
Depending on faux leather
fabric you choose you might
find it easier to sew with a
teflon foot or walking foot
(the Modelo is easy to sew
with so I didn’t need either),
also make sure you increase
your stitch length a little to
around as this avoids stressing
the faux leather at the seams.
To view everything used in
this project – click here

WHAT’S
NEW
We keep you posted on the latest
TWO NEW TOTES
Bag making is as popular as ever and is a
great way to express your creativity and
style. Anna Graham from Noodlehead is
renowned for her wonderful bag patterns,
and has recently added two stylish totes
to her range.
The Redwood Tote is a mid-sized crossbody
bag with front zip pocket, back slip
pocket, zip top closure and reinforced
base. This will become your go-to bag for
everyday use! The handy short handles
make for easy grabbing while the long
strap keeps you hands free! This bag is
great for travelling and keeping your belongings organised.
The Crescent Tote is a smaller bag that’s ideal for stashing a few essentials. The
small shape fits snugly under your arm and the curved lines really plays up its
feminine design. The zip front pocket holds those little items you want to get quick
access to, while the flat bottom makes it easy to set on a table.
To find these bag patterns and others – click here
SIX NEW COLOURWAYS TO
BE CREATIVE
Woolfelt is the registered trademark of
the famous wool and rayon mix that’s
exclusive to National Nonwovens.
Designed for easy sewing and
accurate cutting, it’s popular as a
crafting medium as the uses are never
ending. You can use it for decorations,
ornaments, wearables, appliqué,
cushions and more. Six new colours
have been added to what is already an
extensive range, so there will always
be the right colourway for your
sewing project.
To view the complete range of
Woolfelt from National Nonwovens –
click here
THE FINEST THREADS START WITH
THE FINEST FIBRES
Scanfil, known for their popular organic thread, have introduced
a new all-purpose polyester thread, which complies with
environmental standard Oeko-Tex 100. This means it's free
from harmful substances. There's 200 colours catering for
pretty much any fabric match you require, and it's available in
100 metre reels. Additionally the reels include a handy thread
catcher. We love the way it sews and you should be able to
find it in all good sewing shops.
To see all the Scanfil thread colours – click here

Beautiful Pima Cotton
by Art Gallery Fabrics ... soft,
drapable and wonderful to sew
Photograph courtesy of Alexis Wright