Modern Sewing Starts Here Edition 5

Raise your game
with rayon
Julie Bonnar from The Pattern Pages shares her tips on sewing
garments with the fabric of the moment – rayon
What is rayon?
Rayon is a beautifully soft,
drapey, breathable fibre,
which is perfect for making
flowing garments.
Since rayon is
manufactured from naturally
occurring polymers, it is not
considered to be synthetic.
Like most fabric types –
you’ll find good and bad
when buying so make sure
you choose a premium
smooth one that doesn’t
snag.
If you haven’t worked with
rayon before – here are my
tips for working and sewing
with them.
Choosing a
sewing pattern
Start with a simple pattern
that requires a little amount
of fabric, so you can build
up your confidence. Pick
a pattern that has a good
drape I chose the Ogden
Cami from True Bias.
Pre-washing
Rayon is colourfast but can
shrink so always pre-wash.
Rayon can be machined wash
and tumble dried. Wash on a
warm temperature, and dry
on a medium heat. To see
what the shrinkage rate is –
you can test a small sample
while pre-washing.
Cut a 5in square on
gridded paper or plain paper
is fine too. Use this as a
template to cut a square of
fabric the same size, which
you can compare after
washing. The fabric I’m using
is ‘Let’s Chalk from AGF
Joyful Fusion’ and as you can
see from the photo, there
really was minimal shrinkage.
Cutting your fabric
The main aim is to stop your
fabric shifting around – there
are several things you can do:
Place a piece of tissue
paper underneath the fabric/
pattern to help it stay put on
the cutting surface.
I use pattern weights rather
than pins, but if you prefer
to use pins choose sharp fine
tipped ones, as these are
less likely to leave holes in
delicate fabrics. Always pin in
the seam allowance.
I like to use my scissors to
cut out – make sure your pair
is super sharp – but you may
find it easier to use a cutting
board and rotary cutter.
Cut your pattern out on
the floor if you’re working on
larger projects to avoid the
fabric hanging off the table.
Minimise any stretching by
storing your cut out fabric
pattern pieces by rolling
them up.
Sewing your garment
Tes your sewing machine
tension on a fabric scrap.
I’m guilty of skipping
pinning the fabric together
when sewing pieces with
straight seams, but with rayon
you really should secure the
fabric layers.
Rayon can stretch out of
shape when sewing so make
sure you avoid pulling the
fabric whilst you sew! Stop
sewing to re-adjust your
fabric at regular intervals.
Stay stitching is key is
to helping necklines stay
in shape.
Choose a fusible sheerweight
interfacing so it
doesn’t affect your fabric’s
drape. Silk organza is
recommendd for this.
As rayon is prone to
fraying, finish your raw edges
properly. French seams are a
good choice.
Use a new needles size
65/9 or 70/10 for thin,
lightweight wovens.
Use a delicate stitch such
as 2mm stitch instead of the
automatic 2.5mm. This can
help with any fraying going
beyond the seam.
Remember to match
the thread weight to your
fabric weight.
Pressing
When ironing, lift your
iron and press. Rayon is a
sensitive fabric and if the iron
is too hot it can leave a shiny
mark, which you won’t be
able to get off. Use the wool
setting and a pressing cloth.
Always let your fabric rest
and cool before removing
from the ironing table.
Hemming
It’s a good idea to hang
up your garment for a day
before hemming it.
Art Gallery Fabrics,
Modelo and Cloud9 do
beautiful rayons that
come in vibrant colours
and patterns, and are
great for making clothes.
To view these – click here
Flower keeper
from AGF
Everlasting
Editor from
Cloud9
Business
Class
Let’s Chalk from
AGF Joyful Fusion