Modern Sewing Starts Here Edition 32

Modern Sewing Starts Here is a digital publication which features articles, reviews and handy tips for anyone with an interest in contemporary sewing. In this edition ... Pick Of The Patterns … see the latest apparel pattern releases Making the a great sweater using luxurious Scuba fabric … Jacqui Smith uses Named Clothing's Talvikki Sweater pattern and Modelo's Tulum Scuba fabric. Beginner's Guide ... Julie Bonnar shares her tips for learning to sew your own clothes. A Passion For Making Clothes ... Laura and Saara Huhta (sisters), share their vision for Named Clothing Trend Setter ... Look No Sleeves!. Feel The Love For Hand Quilting ... Sarah Ashford shares two of her favourite techniques for slow hand quilting. Focus On Fabrics ... See the latest fabric releases + More ...

Modern Sewing Starts Here is a digital publication which features articles, reviews and handy tips for anyone with an interest in contemporary sewing.

In this edition ...
Pick Of The Patterns … see the latest apparel pattern releases

Making the a great sweater using luxurious Scuba fabric … Jacqui Smith uses Named Clothing's Talvikki Sweater pattern and Modelo's Tulum Scuba fabric.

Beginner's Guide ... Julie Bonnar shares her tips for learning to sew your own clothes.

A Passion For Making Clothes ... Laura and Saara Huhta (sisters), share their vision for Named Clothing

Trend Setter ... Look No Sleeves!.

Feel The Love For Hand Quilting ... Sarah Ashford shares two of her favourite techniques for slow hand quilting.

Focus On Fabrics ... See the latest fabric releases

+ More ...


Create successful ePaper yourself

Turn your PDF publications into a flip-book with our unique Google optimized e-Paper software.

<strong>Modern</strong><br />

sewing<br />

starts here..<br />

<strong>Edition</strong> <strong>32</strong> - February 2024<br />

SLOW<br />

SEWING<br />

Hand Stitching<br />

Techniques<br />


Eclectic collections for the<br />

seasons ahead!<br />

In the spotlight<br />

Saara and Laura Huhta from Named Clothing<br />

LET’S<br />

TALK<br />

TECH<br />

Tips to start sewing<br />

your own clothes &<br />

patterns for beginners<br />


Pattern Finder<br />

www.hantex.co.uk/patternfinder<br />

Find the perfect pattern for your next project …<br />

search by brand, garment type, fabric type, skill level or even season<br />

Pattern Finder<br />

Use the find a stockist facility to support independent retailers and designers

Editor’s Letter<br />

With spring to look forward to, it’s a time to add some colour to your<br />

sewing and think floral and fun fabrics. We put the next collections<br />

from Art Gallery Fabrics and Cloud9 in the limelight!<br />

The Gilet is the ideal garment to transition between the seasons,<br />

we share four of our favourites for you to sew and other patterns<br />

that are perfect for beginners to make. Talking about learning to<br />

sew, Julie Bonnar shares her tips for those wanting to start making<br />

their own clothes.<br />

We are delighted to have a chat with Saara and Laura Huhta, the<br />

sisters behind the pattern sewing company, Named Clothing, who<br />

started their business from a simple passion for making clothes and<br />

sustainable fashion. Jacqui Smith has chosen to make the Talvikki<br />

Sweater from this duo and shares her experience of the pattern.<br />

We welcome back Sarah Ashford to this edition who shares her<br />

favourite hand stitching techniques for slowing down your sewing<br />

and adding an individuality to your next project.<br />

Until next time, from the team at<br />

<strong>Modern</strong> <strong>Sewing</strong> <strong>Starts</strong> <strong>Here</strong><br />

www.modernsewingstartshere.co.uk<br />

Subscribe and never miss the latest copy of <strong>Modern</strong> <strong>Sewing</strong> <strong>Starts</strong> <strong>Here</strong> - click here<br />


Focus on<br />


Eclectic collections for the seasons ahead!<br />

Brand new fabric collections from Cloud9 Fabrics:<br />

Garden Breeze<br />

Fleurs<br />

Tournantes<br />

Romantic<br />

Roses<br />


This collection is a celebration of surface designer, Heather Dutton of Hang Tight Studio love for nature and vintage designs.<br />

Influenced by her morning walks with her dog and the beautiful gardens that they pass by – this range has a nostalgic feel and<br />

calming beauty that nature provides us with. Her diverse style manages to bridge the gap between retro and contemporary<br />

design with a touch of whimsy mixed in and just what you need heading into spring.<br />

Zephirine George Nadine<br />


This pleasing Rosy Deco fabric collection by Amy MacCready has a lovely retro feel with soft corals, saturated reds and lush greens<br />

that bring the outdoors inside. This collection is inspired by Amy’s walks around a Seattle neighbourhood – the dusty pink roses<br />

touched by spring rain, soft greens in the misty sky, and the elegant architecture of craftsman homes. It’s an elegant collection<br />

without being too formal, and perfect for patchwork, apparel and home decor.<br />

To see more from these Cloud9 Fabrics collections - click here

Brand new fabric collections from Cloud9 Fabrics:<br />

Upwards in<br />

Rust<br />

Domino in<br />

Grey<br />

Ridge in<br />

Blue<br />


Inspired by block prints and hand printing techniques, these easy-to-use designs reflect craft textiles. The collection is full of a<br />

sophisticated but neutral colour palette and pared-back patterns that are ideal for contemporary quilters and sewists. Designed by<br />

British Artist, Eloise Renouf, who is known for her strong shapes, clean crisp lines and bold colour combinations.<br />

Look Don’t<br />

Touch<br />

Stained<br />

Glass<br />

Climbing<br />

Vine<br />


Influenced by vintage nursery rooms and the idea that a window is a magical passage that connects the inside world with the outside<br />

world. This fabric range lets in the light with the scent of the flowers and the sound of buzzing insects so that everything starts to<br />

move beautifully in sync! This collection is perfect for making dresses, blouses and home accessories.<br />

To see more from theseCloud9 Fabrics collection s- click here

The perfect quilt for<br />

pooch lovers! This cute<br />

and bright quilt would<br />

make a lovely addition<br />

to your home! To find the<br />

free pattern - click here<br />

Beach Ball<br />

Bounce<br />

Summer Sky<br />

in Pink<br />


Designed by Krissy Mast, this canine collection features cute dogs sunning their fur in the sun and cooling off in the salty sea. With<br />

bold colours, organic linework, and pups with tons of personality!<br />

To see more from these Cloud9 Fabrics collections - click here

The latest fabric collections from Art Gallery Fabrics:<br />

Timeless Ticking Ginger Juniper Grove Snow Pretty Paper Teal<br />

Yearling Camouflage<br />

in flannel<br />


Experience the rustic charm of winter tide with the Juniper fabric collection designed by Sharon Holland. This exquisite collection<br />

perfectly encapsulates the natural beauty of piney greens, cinnamon spice, and cosy charcoal and white hues. Cherish the season’s<br />

simple pleasures and savour the serene allure of winter.<br />

Kattaland Flora Deep Canoe Trip Shorebird Summer Camp<br />


Designed by Jessica Swift, these fabric designs are inspired by the escape to a world of nostalgia, tranquility, and the carefree<br />

spirit of summer days. Immerse yourself in the warm embrace of a cosy cabin and the gentle sway of a canoe on the lake, all<br />

captured in whimsical patterns of canoes, trees and wildlife.<br />

Mesmorize Renewal Floriferous Folk Trinkets<br />

MAVEN<br />

Indulge in the alluring boho folk style with Maven, a fabric collection that<br />

personifies Maureen Cracknell’s love for her folk art heritage. It is overflowing with<br />

a rich palette of greens, ruby, gold, and blues and showcases mixed textures and<br />

intricate details that will transport you to a world of eclectic charm and wonder<br />

which are perfect for flowing dresses and blouses for the new season.<br />

To find a stockist near you of the latest Art Gallery Fabrics collections - click here<br />

All Art Gallery Fabrics<br />

collections contain 100%<br />

premium cottons with<br />

many of the ranges<br />

including rayon, flannel,<br />

canvas and knit<br />

options too.


GUIDE<br />

Julie Bonnar shares her tips for learning to sew your own clothes<br />

Learning to sew your own clothes can be challenging if you’ve not sewn before but also it’s very rewarding too. It’s like learning a<br />

new language, it comes with its own jargon, tools and a brand new skill set to conquer so it can feel as though there’s a lot to take<br />

in all at once! <strong>Here</strong> is my advice to get you started:<br />

Choosing a sewing machine<br />

There are two types – mechanical and computerised machines.<br />

A mechanical machine has knobs and manual buttons while<br />

computerised sewing machines have a digital screen, multiple<br />

options and software that you can download to your machine.<br />

Always buy a machine from a reputable brand and dealer where<br />

you can try the machines and decide what features you need, sew<br />

on different fabrics, and test different stitches.<br />

Consider what you’ll be using it for and what types of stitches<br />

you may need. Someone wanting to make their own clothes may<br />

need different features from a quilter. Nice things to have include<br />

a needle threader and thread cutter, a good range of stitches<br />

including a buttonhole stitch and a good selection of presser feet.<br />

The budget, you don’t need to buy the most expensive machine<br />

possible to get started but do buy the best you can afford and don’t<br />

rule out buying a second hand machine, it can be better value.<br />

TIP: You’re probably chomping at the bit to start but take the time<br />

to make friends with your sewing machine. Read the owner’s manual<br />

as this will show the parts, how to care for and how to use all the<br />

functions of the machine.<br />

Putting together a basic<br />

sewing kit<br />

When you start sewing, the basic sewing supplies<br />

shouldn’t cost you lots of money but they will save<br />

you from being unprepared without an item that<br />

would make a task easier.<br />


• A good pair of fabric scissors<br />

• Seam ripper<br />

• Chalk pencil<br />

• Measuring tape with metric and imperial<br />

• Fabric clips or pins<br />

• A selection of hand and sewing machine needles<br />

• Extra bobbins for your sewing machine<br />

• Basic colour threads including black and white<br />

Selecting a suitable sewing pattern<br />

Choose patterns that include the words like quick, easy, simple and for<br />

beginners or that just has a few pattern pieces to sew together. Check pattern<br />

review sites online to see what other sewers say about the pattern too. Buy<br />

your first sewing pattern from a retail shop where you can get expert advice.<br />

A sewing pattern gives you all the know-how you need to make a garment.<br />

It’s made up of an envelope full of useful information about sizing, what skills<br />

you need, garment descriptions, photos and illustrations, body measurements,<br />

as well as fabric suggestions and requirements. I find the Finished<br />

Measurements chart is a more useful set of measurements shown here on the<br />

Wilder Gown from Friday Pattern Co. This includes ease, which is the amount<br />

of room a garment allows the wearer beyond the measurements of their body<br />

so essentially how loose the garment will be.<br />

Inside you’ll also find a set of instructions – this is your guide to making the<br />

garment, along with the paper pattern, which you’ll use with your fabric to cut<br />

out the garment.<br />

TIP: If you’re new to dressmaking, it’s better to make a really good job of<br />

a simple garment and boost your confidence rather than make a mess of<br />

something that’s too complicated and will put you off sewing again!

Selecting the fabric<br />

Choosing the right fabric can make or break the finished<br />

garment. The best advice I can give, is to use one of the fabric<br />

types that are recommended on the sewing pattern envelope.<br />

Easy-to-sew patterns will recommend easy-to-work with<br />

fabrics such as cotton, plain and knit fabrics that don’t fray,<br />

aren’t too slippery and where no pattern matching is required<br />

like prints or stripes. Avoid sewing patterns where you need<br />

to cut the fabric on the bias as this adds an element of stretch<br />

to the mix! The pattern will also have a shopping or checklist<br />

of all things you will require but also make sure you have the<br />

right sewing machine needles and thread for the fabric?<br />

Take accurate body measurements<br />

Always match up your body measurements with the patterns<br />

rather than by your size (ignore your shop-bought size as<br />

it has no relevance when sewing your own clothes). Some<br />

patterns have multi-sized patterns while others split the sizes<br />

over two patterns so make sure you buy the right sewing<br />

pattern for your size.<br />

What comes first, the pattern or<br />

the fabric?<br />

I would say for beginners, the sewing pattern comes first and it<br />

will use easier techniques and avoid any complex tailoring and<br />

fitting. Most pattern brands will have patterns in their collection<br />

that are specifically designed for those starting out, plus a list of<br />

fabric suggestions that have been tried and tested as shown here<br />

on the Opal Pants from Megan Nielsen.<br />

There are lots of new terms to get to grips with so by reading<br />

the pattern first, it will help you to make these choices easier.<br />

Other things you can do<br />

• When you come across a new sewing technique – why<br />

not try an online video to become familiar with how to do<br />

it and practise it on a scrap of fabric.<br />

• Understand that you’re going to make mistakes and have<br />

to unpick. Once you accept this is all part of a sewing, it<br />

will be less frustrating when you have to do it.<br />

• Don’t rush your sewing – try to be accurate rather<br />

than speedy as you want your clothes to last and be<br />

something you want to wear time and time again.<br />

• Practice really does make perfect and making the most<br />

of your new and growing skills to gain confidence as you<br />

sew, but most of all sewing, it’s about having fun!<br />

To find more sewing patterns for beginners and get started - click here<br />

Julie Bonnar Is the Editor of The Pattern Pages, an independent sewing magazine started by<br />

mother and daughter team. It’s the first magazine to champion indie designers with Interviews,<br />

collaborations, sewing techniques and projects.<br />


Start to sew…<br />

4 beginner-friendly sewing patterns to inspire confident sewing<br />

Everyday go-to pattern<br />

The Pinafore Dress from the Basics Collection is both an apron and<br />

a garment. This easy-to-sew, calf-length dress features two patch<br />

pockets with pocket bands and wide straps that button in front. It’s<br />

the ideal dress for everyday and can be worn in any season – wear<br />

over a shirt and leggings for winter, or on its own or with a tank top for<br />

summer or use it as a work/garden smock. This pattern is available in<br />

sizes XS-3XL.<br />

To view the full sewing pattern range from Folkwear– click here<br />

Simple styling<br />

The Coram Top and Dress pattern is a loose-fitting raglan that’s ideal<br />

for woven fabrics with drape like rayon/linen blends, rayon challis,<br />

Tencel, crepe de chine, and georgette. This design has bust and<br />

shoulder darts for shaping, and sleeve cuffs and a curved, dolphin<br />

hem for a clean finish. The pattern is available in sizes 0-30.<br />

For more sewing patterns from Allie Olson – click here

Cool choices<br />

The Opal Pants & Shorts pattern has a relaxed fit highwaist<br />

trouser with some lovely mix and match options.<br />

Make with a standard elastic waistband with wide leg or<br />

paperbag waistband with a tapered leg. Choose inseam<br />

or patch pockets, back pockets, belt loops, belt and<br />

different lengths. It comes in a good range of sizes 0-20.<br />

To view the full pattern range from<br />

Megan Nielsen – click here<br />

Good starter<br />

for knits<br />

The Cosmos Sweatshirt is an oversized<br />

raglan knit top designed with comfort<br />

and style in mind. This generous fitting<br />

sweatshirt is a quick and easy make<br />

and features a wide bottom band that<br />

lands just above the hip. The pattern<br />

also includes the Elemental Pencil Skirt.<br />

This slim, high waist pencil skirt has a<br />

hidden elastic waistband that’s designed<br />

for knit fabrics with at least 40%<br />

horizontal stretch. The pattern comes in<br />

sizes 00-20.<br />

To find more patterns from Sew House<br />

Seven - click here

MAKING<br />

An Elevated Talvikki Sweater<br />

from Named Clothing<br />

With Jacqui Smith<br />

Embarking on a sewing journey, whether you’re a novice or a seasoned<br />

dressmaker, can be a rewarding and creative endeavour. One project that<br />

perfectly caters to both ends of the spectrum is the Talvikki Sweater from<br />

Named Clothing. Designed for stretch fabrics, it not only serves as a cosy casual<br />

garment but also transitions seamlessly into a chic and smart wardrobe piece.<br />

My pattern choice<br />

The only modification required for this project was a slight<br />

sleeve shortening of approximately 3cm. The top’s distinctive<br />

darts at the neckline add a touch of elegance, enhanced by a<br />

well-executed facing. It is crucial to interface the facing with a<br />

material possessing the same stretch as the fabric itself.<br />

While the Talvikki Sweater can be sewn using both a sewing<br />

machine and an overlocker, it’s entirely possible to complete<br />

the project solely on a sewing machine with a stretch stitch.<br />

Marked as suitable for novice dressmakers, this sewing<br />

pattern introduces interesting features like darts and a<br />

stepped hem without involving intricate fastenings or complex<br />

techniques. Its quick and uncomplicated nature makes it the<br />

perfect choice for crafting a snug and stylish garment—ideal for<br />

the current season.<br />

So, whether you’re taking your initial steps into the world<br />

of sewing or seeking a satisfying and swift project, the Talvikki<br />

promises a fulfilling experience for all!

My fabric choice<br />

The Talvikki Sweater pattern specifically<br />

calls for fabrics with a minimum stretch of 40%<br />

across the width, and the suggested materials<br />

include sweatshirting, bouclé, or lightweight<br />

neoprene. A fantastic match for this project is<br />

the soft touch scuba fabric—a versatile choice<br />

with excellent stretch and recovery. Its soft<br />

and silky texture, combined with substantial<br />

weight, makes it an ideal candidate for both<br />

leisurewear and more sophisticated ensembles.<br />

Whether crafted in soft sweatshirt fabric for<br />

a casual vibe with jeans or in a sweater knit or<br />

scuba for an elegant top for work paired with<br />

tailored trousers or a skirt, the Talvikki offers<br />

endless possibilities.<br />

Working with the soft touch scuba fabric<br />

proves to be super easy. It effortlessly glides<br />

through both the sewing machine and the<br />

overlocker, requiring only minor adjustments<br />

such as using a ballpoint needle and setting<br />

the overlocker to the stretch fabric setting.<br />

When dealing with scuba, careful pinning<br />

within the seam allowance and the use of a<br />

pressing cloth ensures a flawless finish without<br />

marking or shine on the fabric.<br />

One notable advantage of working with<br />

scuba fabric is its resistance to fraying, making<br />

it an excellent choice for beginners who may<br />

opt to skip finishing internal seams and hems.<br />



The Talvikki Sweater is a soft<br />

and warm sweater with both<br />

casual and crisp elements.<br />

The loose fit and dropped<br />

shoulders are balanced<br />

with an elegant funnel neck<br />

shaped with darts. The<br />

deep vents at the sides and<br />

the longer hem at the back<br />

add a sharp look to this cosy<br />

sweater. This sewing pattern<br />

comes in sizes XS- XXL<br />

To view this pattern and<br />

others from Named<br />

Clothing – click here<br />


Jacqui chose to make her<br />

Talvikki Sweater in the new<br />

Scuba fabric collection from<br />

Modelo. This fabric is made<br />

from a blend of 51% Polyester,<br />

43% Viscose, and 6% Elastane,<br />

and has a soft feel, with great<br />

stretch and recovery making it<br />

perfect for active wear as well<br />

as garments where comfort is<br />

important. Raw edges are easy<br />

to finish as Scuba doesn’t fray.<br />

To view more from the Tullum<br />

Scuba Collection from Modelo<br />

– click here

Friday Pattern Company<br />

The Bernadette Skirt is such a stylish pattern – it’s pleated in the front<br />

and darted in the back! Store your treasures with the super fun belt<br />

bag! The pattern includes two length options – mini and midi and is<br />

a versatile and fun to sew pattern. Make it in hardwearing fabrics like<br />

denim, corduroy, and boiled wool. This sewing pattern comes in sizes<br />

XS-7X.<br />

To find your nearest stockist of Friday Pattern Company – click here<br />

New apparel sewing pattern releases for you to make!<br />

Mönsterfabriken<br />

The Flora Collarless Overshirt can be worn on top of pretty<br />

much anything. It has a slightly wider and boxy shape, a raglan<br />

sleeve and two inseam pockets at the front as well as slits at<br />

the neck and side seams making this top very comfortable and<br />

easy to wear. The pattern is ideal for denim, corduroy, boiled<br />

wool and semi-heavy wool and if you prefer a more oversized<br />

look you can make in a larger size.<br />

It also has the option to play around<br />

with topstitching and comes in sizes<br />

80-166cm chest.<br />

To view this latest pattern and more<br />

from Mönsterfabriken - click here<br />

Check out the free-to-use resource listing of the very best Indie patterns and filter by fabric, garment, brand<br />

or skill level by visiting www.hantex.co.uk



Sisters, Laura and Saara Huhta share what their<br />

vision for Named Clothing is all about!<br />

Tell us a little bit about yourselves and how<br />

Named Clothing came about?<br />

It all began in the autumn of 2012, and the idea actually came<br />

to us all of a sudden, when we were sitting on a bus and going<br />

to have lunch at our parents’ place. We started chatting about<br />

what we would love to do for a living, if we could choose any<br />

profession.<br />

Saara had recently graduated as a fashion designer and<br />

pattern maker, and Laura as a shoe designer. We talked about<br />

sewing, designing and fashion – things that we both have a lot of<br />

passion for, and realised that having our own pattern label would<br />

be the dream job for us!<br />

During that 20-minute bus ride, we had pretty much talked<br />

through our business plan, and as soon as we were there at our<br />

parents’ house, we started writing it down. After one year of<br />

work and planning, we had our web store up and running and<br />

our first collection out!<br />

How is it for both of you working in a sister<br />

team and how do you split your workload?<br />

It’s definitely an advantage! We have a very similar sense of style,<br />

so designing together is easy.<br />

We complement each other well, so tasks divide between us<br />

pretty naturally. Laura has a good eye for the visual stuff and<br />

she’s a better writer, and Saara is a phenomenal pattern maker.<br />

So Saara takes care of all pattern-making related tasks, such<br />

as drafting and grading the patterns, as well as developing them<br />

into pdf, printed and projector pattern files. Laura writes and<br />

illustrates the instructions, and puts them together into pdf and<br />

printed files.<br />

Of course, there are other tasks involved in running a small<br />

business, such as customer care, web shop deliveries, sales and<br />

video editing, which Saara handles, and marketing, social media<br />

and photography, that Laura takes care of.<br />

Tell us a little bit about your patterns, and how<br />

you go about choosing and designing them?<br />

We usually design our collections around a specific theme. The<br />

theme could be anything that inspires us at that moment. For<br />

example, in the past, we have been inspired by themes like<br />

geology, childhood and kids’ clothes and travelling.<br />

Our core values include sustainable and sensible consumption,<br />

and our aim is to create carefully designed patterns that<br />

encourage people to create a practical wardrobe that can<br />

withstand time and use. We design our patterns so that they<br />

are pleasing to the eye and also offer an opportunity to learn<br />

new and different – even unusual – techniques. Our designs<br />

are timeless basic clothes that nonetheless include interesting<br />

details. To balance out the pressure to sew as much as possible<br />

as quickly as possible, we want to use our products to emphasise

To view more<br />

patterns from<br />

Named Clothing -<br />

click here

the fact that the most wonderful thing<br />

about sewing is the opportunity to<br />

keep developing yourself and learning<br />

new things. Quality over quantity is<br />

our motto!<br />

How would you best<br />

describe your personal style,<br />

and what impact has it had<br />

on your pattern collections?<br />

Our style is simple and relaxed. We<br />

like practical and comfortable basic<br />

garments, a wardrobe that’s easy to<br />

mix and match. To balance the simple<br />

designs, we like to choose interesting<br />

colours and patterns, fun materials<br />

and intriguing details and cuts. This<br />

aesthetics is basically also what<br />

Named is all about. The area where<br />

the two of us differ most is the use of<br />

colour – Saara loves shades of yellow<br />

and rust, combined with pastels, icy<br />

blues and turquoise. Laura wears a lot<br />

of earth tones and pale pink.<br />

What do you feel makes<br />

Named Clothing patterns<br />

different?<br />

We can’t speak for other pattern<br />

companies, but we try to design our<br />

patterns so that not only the end<br />

result – the finished garment – is<br />

pleasing to the eye, but the process<br />

itself is fun and rewarding. So maybe<br />

that could be something where we<br />

differ from other companies. We<br />

do this by designing surprising cuts<br />

and constructions, and by including<br />

new sewing techniques collection by<br />

collection, so that you can always learn<br />

something new, while still using the<br />

skillset you’ve already built.<br />

What has been your<br />

favourite pattern to design<br />

and what’s the most popular<br />

pattern with sewists?<br />

The Hali Wrap Dress and Jumpsuit<br />

from our 2022 collection was fun to<br />

design! The construction is based on<br />

our Helga Playsuit pattern from 2017,<br />

but it’s such a fun construction we<br />

really wanted to repeat it. The Kielo<br />

Wrap Dress and Jumpsuit is definitely<br />

our most popular pattern, and<br />

no wonder, it has a unique shape<br />

that flatters many body types,<br />

but it’s still surprisingly easy to<br />

sew. In 2023, we also released<br />

the Lilja Wrap Dress, Pinafore and<br />

Blouse pattern that has the same<br />

construction but is designed for<br />

woven fabrics. It was fun to reimagine<br />

the iconic Kielo in different<br />

fabrics and with some new details!<br />

How does it feel seeing<br />

your patterns made up by<br />

sewers from all around<br />

the world?<br />

That is the best part of our job<br />

really! It’s so rewarding to see<br />

that sewists all around the globe<br />

actually use the patterns we make,<br />

and make them look even better<br />

with their personal tweaks and<br />

additions. We love it!<br />

2020 saw a bit of a rebrand<br />

for you, explain what<br />

changes you made for<br />

sewers?<br />

We made a bunch of big<br />

improvements, firstly we upgraded<br />

our entire web shop to be more<br />

user-friendly, we added payment<br />

methods and improved the<br />

shipping service. We also updated<br />

our pattern packaging to be more<br />

informative. We extended our size<br />

range (for most patterns, but we’re<br />

still in the middle of that process<br />

since it’s very time-consuming). We<br />

polished the pattern sheets and<br />

instructions to be more detailed<br />

and easier to use.<br />

What are your plans for<br />

2024 for Named Clothing?<br />

For the past few years, we’ve<br />

focused on important ‘maintenance<br />

work’ just to keep our products<br />

technically up-to-date, and added<br />

other content to maintain the<br />

quality of our service. This year we’ll<br />

return to our roots and focus on<br />

producing two capsule collections<br />

just like in the old days. So exciting!


Look no sleeves<br />


Gilets, vests, and waistcoats are a sleeveless trend that’s perfect for those in-between seasons and are easy to style and wear. This<br />

sleeveless jacket is typically worn as a layering piece as it provides extra warmth but we’re also seeing it as a standalone top.<br />

UP YOUR<br />

GAME<br />

The Pika Vest is perfect to<br />

wear over shirts, blouses,<br />

T-shirts or alone as a<br />

stylish top. The front hem<br />

is pointed and the back<br />

hem is slightly longer than<br />

the back. There are also<br />

decorative welts, princess<br />

seams, back darts, and a<br />

shaped back seam. This<br />

pattern comes in sizes 0-24<br />

(30-54 EUR).<br />

To see more sewing<br />

patterns from Wardrobe By<br />

Me - click here<br />



The Charlie Bomber<br />

Jacket has been<br />

designed for stable<br />

knits or stretch wovens<br />

with a zipper at the<br />

front, ribbing collar,<br />

cuffs and waistband.<br />

Extra details include<br />

pockets with single<br />

welt and forward<br />

shoulder seam. The<br />

pattern is available<br />

in 27 sizes for girls<br />

and women.<br />

To view this<br />

pattern and<br />

others from<br />

Jalie Patterns -<br />

click here<br />

PERIOD<br />

DRAMA<br />

In Victorian times, both ladies and<br />

gentlemen were not considered<br />

properly dressed without<br />

a vest or waistcoat. This<br />

Vintage Vest pattern features<br />

three styles, all the backs<br />

are cut from lining fabric<br />

for comfort and to reduce<br />

bulkiness. Make in medium<br />

to heavyweight fabrics like<br />

cotton, silk, wool, or with<br />

nap like velvet, corduroy<br />

or synthetic suede. The<br />

pattern comes in sizes 6-16<br />

(Misses) and 36-44 (Mens).<br />

To view this pattern and<br />

others from Folkwear -<br />

click here<br />


WEAR<br />

The Ozark Vest is a casual<br />

urban vest that’s ideal for<br />

transitional weather over a<br />

sweater or hoodie. It has<br />

big patch pockets on the<br />

outside as well as an inside<br />

pocket and closes with a<br />

heavy metal zipper. The<br />

collar is cut in rib fabric. Use<br />

woven fabrics like canvas,<br />

rip-stop, wool, corduroy for<br />

the outside, and quilted<br />

lining.<br />

To view this pattern and<br />

others from Wardrobe By Me<br />

- click here


for Hand Stitching<br />

Sarah Ashford shares two of her favourite slow hand stitching techniques<br />

As much as I love stitching up a storm on the sewing machine,<br />

more recently I’ve been taking pleasure in slowing things down<br />

and embracing the process of hand stitching.<br />

Kantha quilting is something I’ve always enjoyed and I’ve<br />

recently discovered the beauty of Boro – a Japanese visible<br />

mending and decorative technique that’s easy to achieve – and<br />

even better doesn’t need to be perfect!<br />

So I thought I’d share a little more about these two<br />

techniques, and given that the season of love with Valentine’s<br />

Day is approaching, it seemed only appropriate to use the<br />

beautiful ‘Love Struck’ collection by Art Gallery Fabrics to make<br />

some samples.<br />


Kantha quilts originate in<br />

Bangladesh, and were made by<br />

women out of necessity, as they<br />

turned scraps, saris and cloths into<br />

bedcovers, mats and all-purpose<br />

wrappers, by using a running<br />

stitch to sew them all together. Far<br />

from the decorative purposes that<br />

we see today, these quilts were<br />

functional, and to keep people<br />

warm. The characteristic big<br />

running stitches, in thick thread,<br />

create a gorgeous texture and soft<br />

organic feel, which make them<br />

so beautiful and popular today.<br />

Kantha stitches are often seen<br />

on whole cloth quilts that feature<br />

elaborate and brightly coloured<br />

patterns, and they also work<br />

perfectly with simple patchwork,<br />

which is what I’ve done in my little<br />

sample.<br />

I’ve stitched Kantha stitches into<br />

regular patchwork, made up of the<br />

quilt top, batting and backing. You<br />

can see the added dimension and<br />

interest that the stitches give. I’ve<br />

had fun using both pink and white<br />

threads to add interest, and the<br />

12 weight thread gives a lovely<br />

textural quality. The joy of Kantha<br />

quilting is that you don’t have to<br />

worry about perfect stitches, so it’s<br />

great for beginners!


Similarly, Boro (meaning ‘rags’) is a Japanese<br />

mending technique where traditionally, textile items<br />

are mended with scraps of cloth sewn over tears and<br />

parts of the garment that are worn out. It originated<br />

in rural Japan, by humble peasant farmers, out of<br />

necessity to stay warm during periods of extreme<br />

temperatures and poverty.<br />

The Boro stitching strengthens and extends the life<br />

of the garment, as well as adding an additional layer<br />

of beauty. The philosophy behind Boro is that there<br />

is beauty in mending and that nothing should be<br />

wasted and that imperfections have their own subtle<br />

appeal.<br />

Today, we often refer to this technique as ‘visible<br />

mending’ or ‘up-cycling’, and while it’s currently seen<br />

as something ‘trendy’ to do, as we see a resurgence<br />

in the ‘make do and mend’ approach, it’s actually<br />

been practiced for hundreds of years.<br />

My sample is a modern take on the Boro technique,<br />

where I’ve created a fabric collage, using Boro style<br />

stitches. In keeping with the Boro philosophy, I used<br />

a small linen off-cut from my stash, and scraps from<br />

my leftover patchwork. I stitched mindfully and slowly,<br />

and enjoyed the playfulness of the imperfect stitches,<br />

against the backdrop of imperfect fabric pieces.<br />

I hope you’ll be inspired to try these two different<br />

techniques, and heed the call to slow down, stitch<br />

intentionally and appreciate the beauty of what can<br />

be created with just a needle, fabric and thread.<br />


If you have been inspired by Sarah’s project – she used fabric<br />

scraps from the Love Struck fabric collection by AGF Studio.<br />

To view all stockists and view the complete collection – click here

Vlieseline Packs<br />

Vlieseline has introduced four new handy packs<br />

of interfacing and wadding including Decovil<br />

Light, Thermolam, Style-vil foam and mediumweight<br />

fusible interfacing which are perfect size<br />

for one-off sewing projects.<br />

To view Vlieseline interfacings – click here and<br />

for Vlieseline wadding - click here<br />

WHAT’S<br />

new<br />

We keep you up-to-date on the<br />

latest products<br />

Stylish <strong>Sewing</strong> Notions<br />

Prym Love has launched some lovely new<br />

products to aid home sewists get professional<br />

results but have fun too!<br />

We love the new Fabric Clips, they are a<br />

quicker and great alternative to traditional pins<br />

and don’t leave any pesky marks behind that can<br />

come with using pins. They come in a neat heart<br />

storage box that really makes sewing projects<br />

with fabric clips twice as easy!<br />

How sweet are the new pin cushions, they<br />

are a unique two-in-one solution for your<br />

sewing needs. These pretty helpers come in<br />

an orange, kiwi, or melon design and are both<br />

decorative pin cushions and fixing weights. The<br />

fixing weights are perfect for positioning fabrics<br />

and sewing patterns on the cutting mat and<br />

cutting them out with a rotary cutter. Their soft,<br />

crocheted surface prevents pressure marks,<br />

making them ideal for delicate fabrics,<br />

oilcloth, and soft shell fabrics.<br />

Scissors are crucial for any sewer<br />

and these textile scissors feature micro<br />

serration that makes even the slipperiest<br />

of fabrics, such as silk and synthetics,<br />

securely and precisely cut. The handle<br />

design is what truly sets them apart with a<br />

bright, cheerful pink colour, with soft inner<br />

ring and larger eye allows for several fingers<br />

to fit, making it comfortable to use for<br />

extended periods and reduces strain while<br />

cutting.<br />

To view the new<br />

products from Prym<br />

Love – click here<br />

Snow Quilt<br />

This is the latest pattern from Pen + Paper. Snow Day is a<br />

fat-quarter friendly, traditionally pieced quilt recommended<br />

for the intermediate sewist and above. The pattern includes<br />

instructions for making two throw size options that measure<br />

66in x 78in and consists of a Beanie block (10½ in) and<br />

Scarf block (10½ in x 22½ in) that are arranged randomly<br />

throughout the quilt. The 19-page pattern has an optional<br />

FPP pattern for the brim of the beanie, tags for organising<br />

your cuts of fabric, downloadable colouring pages, detailed<br />

instructions, and colourful diagrams.<br />

To view this new quilt pattern and others from Pen + Paper<br />

– click here

New fabrics for this season<br />

PIMA Cotton<br />

Experience the rustic charm<br />

of wintertide with Juniper by<br />

Sharon Holland. This<br />

exquisite collection perfectly<br />

encapsulates the natural<br />

beauty of piney greens,<br />

cinnamon spice, and cozy<br />

charcoal and white hues.<br />

Cherish the season's simple<br />

pleasures & savour the<br />

serene allure of winter..<br />

Full details & stockists

New fabrics for this season<br />

Escape to a world of nostalgia, tranquility,<br />

and the carefree spirit of summer days.<br />

Immerse yourself in the warm embrace of<br />

a cozy cabin and the gentle sway of a<br />

canoe on the lake, all captured in<br />

whimsical patterns of canoes, trees, and<br />

wildlife.<br />

Full details & stockists<br />

PIMA Cotton & Flannel

New fabrics for this season<br />

PIMA Cotton & Flannel<br />

Indulge in the mesmerising boho folk style<br />

with Maven, a collection that embodies<br />

Maureen's love for her folk art heritage.<br />

Overflowing with a rich palette of greens,<br />

ruby, gold, and blues, this collection<br />

showcases mixed textures and intricate<br />

details that will transport you to a world of<br />

eclectic charm and wonder.<br />

Full details & stockists

New fabrics for this season<br />

Sunning their fur in the<br />

summer sun and cooling off in<br />

the salty sea, these dogs are<br />

having their best summer ever<br />

at the beach. Featuring bold<br />

colours, organic line work, and<br />

pups with tons of personality,<br />

Dog Days of Summer is the<br />

perfect celebration of sunny<br />

days and sandy paws<br />

Full details & stockists

New fabrics for this season<br />

Flower Garden is a<br />

celebration of Heather’s love<br />

for nature and vintage designs.<br />

Inspired by her morning walks<br />

with her dog and the beautiful<br />

gardens that they pass by, the<br />

collection evokes a nostalgic<br />

feeling and the calming beauty<br />

that nature provides.…<br />

100% Organic Quilter’s<br />

Full details & stockists

New fabrics for this season<br />

Inspired by block prints and the<br />

techniques of hand printing, Imprint<br />

is a collection of modern, minimal<br />

and easy to use designs.<br />

Reflecting the handmade and<br />

textural qualities of craft textiles<br />

and with an accompanying<br />

sophisticated and neutral palette,<br />

the collection offers considered and<br />

pared-back patterns for the<br />

contemporary quilter.<br />

Full details & stockists

New fabrics for this season<br />

This collection was inspired by<br />

walks around a Seattle<br />

neighbourhood: the dusty pink<br />

roses touched by spring rain,<br />

soft greens in the misty sky,<br />

and the elegant architecture of<br />

craftsman homes. It is an<br />

elegant collection without being<br />

too formal, perfect for home<br />

décor.<br />

Full details & stockists

New fabrics for this season<br />

Inspired<br />

by vintage nursery rooms and the<br />

idea of a window as a magical<br />

passage that connects the inside<br />

world with the outside world.The<br />

items inside of the nursery start<br />

moving in sync with the outside<br />

world once we open the window<br />

and let in the light, flower scents,<br />

and the sound of insects buzzing..<br />

Full details & stockists


Love this digital publication? Then why not sign up<br />

and we’ll keep you updated with what’s new and<br />

trending in the world of sewing!<br />

To subscribe FREE<br />

and get your regular<br />

copy of <strong>Modern</strong><br />

<strong>Sewing</strong> <strong>Starts</strong> <strong>Here</strong><br />

— click here

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!