Autumn 2023

BADGER’S PLOT
JOBS ON THE PLOT
Autumn Almanac
Autumn is
a period
when we can
start to take
stock of the
year to date. Gardeners
are continuing to face
the challenges of our
unpredictable climate.
One area particularly
affected has been fruit
growing. Here in the Weald
we had lower than usual
average temperatures
during the spring and
the warmer weather
was late in arriving,
which has translated
into later harvests of
strawberries, raspberries
and blackberries. We also
suffered a prolonged dry
spell that created stresses
for plants that reacted
by going to seed early.
Seed germination rates,
particularly for vegetables,
also seemed to be affected
and having a greenhouse
didn’t always guarantee
results. I’m beginning to
wonder about the quality of
the seeds we are buying.
The hosepipe ban back
in June acted as a reminder
to consider the use of water
butts to collect and store
rainwater for future use.
A visit to the allotments
in Cranbrook revealed a
surprising number of sheds
without this simple device.
Due to the presence of
nitrates, rainwater is very
beneficial for good plant
health.
As usual, the planned
work for this period has
been split into three.
EARLY AUTUMN
Sowing in the greenhouse
or outside
Spring cabbage, winter
lettuce and radishes.
Onions, if grown from
seed. It’s not too late to try
a sowing of French dwarf
beans.
Harvesting
Lift and store onions.
Continue to harvest beans,
tomatoes, courgettes and
cucumbers.
Mid-Autumn
Sowing in the greenhouse or
outside
Broad beans.
Planting outside
Garlic cloves.
Harvesting
Marrows, squashes and
pumpkins if frost is forecast.
Carrots, cabbage and
sprouts should be available.
LATE AUTUMN
Planting outside
Broad beans.
Harvesting
Parsnips, carrots, leeks,
beetroot, swede, sprouts
and remaining salads. Pick
autumn fruiting raspberries.
The spotlight this issue is on weeds. It always
seems that a disproportionate amount of
time is spent removing them, but there
are some types of weed that are incredibly
invasive and will keep returning. Examples
are bindweed and creeping thistle. These
weeds will be a serious problem for years
if we fail to break the chain of
reproduction. Both are similar;
their root systems spread very
quickly underground. In the
case of bindweed, where it
breaks the surface, the plant
will seek out and envelop
anything nearby and eventually
smother it, producing recognisable
white trumpet-like flowers during the
summer. To make matters worse,
there are some varieties that
can penetrate up to 5m into the
soil. It can also extend outwards
from the centre at a rate of 2m
in a single season. The weed
can easily regenerate from the
smallest segment of root left in
the ground when attempts are
being made to clear it.
Creeping thistle has a
horizontal root system spreading out
from a single tap root. Buds form at intervals
that develop into shoots. The plants can
become quite large and will dominate
supplies of nutrients and moisture. Like
bindweed, creeping thistle can regenerate
from the smallest pieces of root.
Avoiding harmful chemicals, what can
gardeners do to deal with this menace?
Trying to dig or hoe it out risks leaving
behind those pieces that will regenerate,
but over time, the plant will be weakened
and brought under control. In the case of
bindweed, we are talking about four or
five years. Placing a physical barrier to cut
off light and moisture can also produce
results, given time. Mypex polypropylene
control fabric is an expensive but effective
solution. Many gardeners employ redundant
carpeting to control weeds, but there is a
risk that materials used in the carpet contain
chemicals or other harmful substances and
cannot therefore be recommended. A final
warning is not to put any of these two types
of weed on your compost heap as you will
simply be recycling it. Badger
34 The Cake • Autumn 2023