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Untitled - Barranquilla Capital Americana de la Cultura 2013

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Legendary P<strong>la</strong>ces and People<br />

In the collective imaginary of the people from <strong>Barranquil<strong>la</strong></strong>, there’s a city map marked<br />

with a series of special p<strong>la</strong>ces that stand out very visibly: the public establishments<br />

of food and drinks that have -throughout time and as wi<strong>de</strong> as the city has grown-<br />

positioned or are positioning themselves as unavoidable <strong>la</strong>ndmarks of our gastronomic<br />

habits.<br />

These p<strong>la</strong>ces, some now days gone while others still exist, have a very high p<strong>la</strong>ce<br />

in the top of mind and top of heart of the people from <strong>Barranquil<strong>la</strong></strong>. In some cases<br />

given to their association with their owners, and in others, because they have for some<br />

reason, achieved the category of legendary.<br />

That’s how in 1936, in the San B<strong>la</strong>s Street between the 41st and 43rd street, two Greek<br />

citizens Nicolás Angelogeanopoulos and Andrés Aristidú opened the doors of the<br />

He<strong>la</strong><strong>de</strong>ría <strong>Americana</strong>. Not long after, it became “the p<strong>la</strong>ce to be for the elite of<br />

<strong>Barranquil<strong>la</strong></strong>”, just as its own advertising promoted. Its specialties were artisan ice<br />

creams, pastries and cakes; and the jewel of its menu: the Frozzo Malt ice cream,<br />

which was even cited by Garcia Márquez in his memoirs and in his novel Love in the<br />

Times of Cholera. Now days, the He<strong>la</strong><strong>de</strong>ría <strong>Americana</strong> maintains its prestige intact.<br />

Also in the San B<strong>la</strong>s Street, these two entrepreneurs created the Lunchería <strong>Americana</strong>,<br />

where dinner style food was offered. It became a meeting p<strong>la</strong>ce for journalists,<br />

politicians and intellectuals.<br />

Close to this location, was the Roma cafe, in the middle of the Paseo Bolivar with the<br />

43rd and 41st street. Its signature dish was the chicken rice. Open 24 hours a day, it<br />

was the p<strong>la</strong>ce of literary gathering for famous writers and artists, including those of the<br />

famous <strong>Barranquil<strong>la</strong></strong> Group.<br />

The Chop Suey, on the corner of the 46th street with the 72nd street, was foun<strong>de</strong>d by<br />

José Yi and then passed on to Jorge Makong: “a Chinese that appeared to be from<br />

the coast”. They sold, as said by the old people from <strong>Barranquil<strong>la</strong></strong>, the best chicken<br />

rice in the world. It had marvelous facilities and during Carnivals it was home to wel<strong>la</strong>tten<strong>de</strong>d<br />

dances. It became the p<strong>la</strong>ce for trio serena<strong>de</strong>s and to hang out until dawn.<br />

It remained in that location from 1935 to 1965 and then was moved to its current venue:<br />

49th street between 72nd and 74th street.<br />

Hotel Esperia<br />

Across from the 72nd street, between this one and 74th street, in the 46th street was<br />

the Chow Mein, which belonged to Chinese Alberto Ow. Its signature dish: the special<br />

chow fan. Also in the 72nd street, but in the northeastern corner of the 43rd street was<br />

El Deportivo, an elegant restaurant which offered international gourmet cuisine. And<br />

in the very same 72nd street, between the 47th and 48th street exited for many years,<br />

approximately since the beginning of the 1960’s El Mediterraneo. It belonged to the<br />

Greek Tarchopulos and Si<strong>de</strong>ris families and had a big salon and a splendid terrace,<br />

where well known literary gatherings amongst journalists and politicians took p<strong>la</strong>ce.<br />

In the Chiquinquirá neighborhood, La Casa <strong>de</strong>l Recuerdo, specialized in pork<br />

scratchings, was the temple of the famous Negro Adán (Adán Moreno Sa<strong>la</strong>regui),<br />

a charismatic and p<strong>la</strong>yful character, mentioned by García Márquez in his novel<br />

Autumn of the Patriarch.<br />

In the Gar<strong>de</strong>n City neighborhood, on the 42nd street with 79th street, the Peñita p<strong>la</strong>ce<br />

was famous during the second half of the XXth century, a p<strong>la</strong>ce that counted with a<br />

numerous clientele that inclu<strong>de</strong>d distinguished personalities of the city. It was very<br />

well known and loved because of its pork scratchings, pork chops, egg arepas, bean<br />

fritters, carimaño<strong>la</strong>s and other types of fried fruits of the Caribbean Coast.<br />

In the corner of the 62nd street with 44th street, can be found, since almost over half a<br />

century ago, La Tien<strong>de</strong>cita, the p<strong>la</strong>ce where writer Álvaro Cepeda Samudio prepared<br />

“on occasions his famous hen, tail and rib stew” according to Heriberto Fiorillo’s book<br />

La Cueva, Chronicles of the <strong>Barranquil<strong>la</strong></strong> Group.<br />

The Mi Vaquita restauant, in the 46th street between the 70th and the 72nd street, was<br />

a huge patio with straw huts where birthdays and company parties were celebrated.<br />

Its owner was Pepe Bejman. Also in the northern part of the city, in the Veinte <strong>de</strong> Julio<br />

Avenue was the equally famous Spanish bar La Sil<strong>la</strong> Coja, where food and wines from<br />

the home<strong>la</strong>nd were offered and where Spanish artists frequently performed.<br />

On the outer part of <strong>Barranquil<strong>la</strong></strong>, there are two unforgettable p<strong>la</strong>ces that must be<br />

named. The first is the Pradomar Hotel, which was the country venue of the Hotel<br />

El Prado, and whose restaurant remained at its full capacity during the weekends.<br />

The other is the Esperia Hotel, a property of a German citizen, whose sea terrace ( a<br />

concrete p<strong>la</strong>tform built in the sea and who one could only reach through a gangway)<br />

was very famous and sought after between 1940 and 1950.

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