34 / TRAVEL / Cape Town Left (clockwise from top left): Sidewalk Cafe in Vredehoek; Imiso ceramics in Woodstock; Industrial heritage Right: Bakoven, towards Hout Bay “Woodstock’s former warehouses, foundries and factories have followed the example of The Old Biscuit Mill” Seaside dining in Paternoster Just east of Cape Town, the wineries and restaurants of Franschhoek and Stellenbosch represent the best of South African gastronomy. In recent years, however, a lesser known foodie-hotspot has been taking shape in Paternoster, a little fishing village up the West Coast. Here, well-known chefs such as Reuben Riff and Jaco Kruger have been opening or taking over restaurants (Reuben’s at Abalone House and Gaaitjie, respectively). The most innovative of the bunch, however, is chef Kobus van der Merwe, whose Wolfgat is highly acclaimed. His hyperlocal strandveld cuisine is named after herbs and succulents foraged from the beach, and inspired by South African cooking traditions. GAAITJIE Off Sampson Street, Paternoster gaaitjie.co.za REUBEN’S AT ABALONE HOUSE 3 Kriedoring Street, Paternoster abalonehouse.co.za WOLFGAT 10 Sampson Street, Paternoster wolfgat.co.za and Argentinian empanadas to Dutch poffertjes or Valencian paella. It is also a great place to stock up on local organic produce, wines and craft beers. UP-AND-COMING TALENT Many of Woodstock’s former warehouses, foundries and decommissioned factories have followed the example of The Old Biscuit Mill, and most of them are located along Albert Road, the neighbourhood’s main commercial thoroughfare. A few minutes’ walk away from The Old Biscuit Mill, for example, a large warehouse has been converted into a co-op for emerging artisans and fashion designers. Named the Threads Project, it is the brainchild of Greg Swanepoel, a clothing wholesaler who decided to share his three decades’ worth of expertise in the industry with up-and-coming talent. By sharing a space, and the associated logistics of running a small business, the project allows young entrepreneurs to spend more time and energy on simply being creative, and less on the everyday drudgery of accounting or managing their e-commerce. Everyone rents their own space in the building, and the range of products on offer is as eclectic as it could be: from art prints and bright bikinis to environmentally-friendly cork handbags, bamboo socks and hand-drawn illustrations. The majority of it is made and designed in Cape Town. Closer to the city centre, the store fronts along Albert Road start to look a lot more polished. Furniture showrooms are no longer limited to local artwork, but also display pricey Dutch and Danish design furniture. It’s hardly surprising when Swanepoel laments that property prices in Woodstock are soaring. “Now that this part of town has reached a certain point of maturity and saturation, we’re noticing a swing back to the city centre again,” he says, referring to Bree Street and the rest of the CBD. It seems that the two most happening districts of Cape Town are settling on a hipness-equilibrium. ➔ Plan your trip Enjoy two great African destinations in a single trip. Flights are now available from Nairobi to Cape Town via Livingstone, Zambia, and as of May 1 also via Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe. Flights depart from both destinations three times a week. Book these or other flights to Cape Town on kenya-airways.com. Left page: Mirjam Bleeker, Imiso (top right) Right page: Dana van Leeuwen
TRAVEL / 35 “The views along the Atlantic Seaboard are priceless”