Meetingssca o francese. Nonostanteciò, il nostro sistemaviene considerato menostrategico e meno importante:un errore <strong>di</strong> valutazioneche senza l’innovazionedelle nostre impresee l’intraprendenza deinostri impren<strong>di</strong>toriavremmo pagato a caroprezzo”.Dalla Federazione Fiampvengono perciò due fortirichieste, che si ispiranoai principi <strong>di</strong> legalità etrasparenza al sistemapolitico europeo e italiano.In particolare, rispetto alprimo, Fiamp chiede unamaggiore incisività nelcontrasto al <strong>di</strong>lagantefenomeno della contraffazione,sia attraverso maggioricontrolli sui prodottiimportati sia attraversoinchieste della Magistraturanei confronti <strong>di</strong> chi utilizzale merci contraffatein un sistema organizzato.“Non si riesce a comprendereper quale ragione –prosegue il presidenteFiamp – quando si tratta<strong>di</strong> prodotti alimentari,me<strong>di</strong>cine o giocattoli, lacontraffazione suscitasdegno, mentre quando siparla <strong>di</strong> prodotti modanon vi è la consapevolezzache i rischi <strong>di</strong> me<strong>di</strong>operiodo sono altrettantoalti, come <strong>di</strong>mostrano isempre più frequentiritrovamenti <strong>di</strong> prodottimodanocivi alla salutedei consumatori. Ancheper questo occorre agirecon sanzioni e multe piùcre<strong>di</strong>bili agli acquirenti:gli attuali 10mila eurosono inutili perché <strong>di</strong>fatto inesigibili”.La cultura della legalità è,tuttavia, un aspetto chedeve trovare un riscontroanche a livello internazionale,sottolinea Sol<strong>di</strong>ni“con politiche doganalibasate su criteri <strong>di</strong> reciprocitàperché è chi giocasenza applicare le regoleil vero protezionista”.Rispetto alla trasparenza,l’adozione <strong>di</strong> una normativasull’obbligatorietà delmarchio <strong>di</strong> origine per iprodotti importati nellaUE corrisponde allanecessità <strong>di</strong> equiparare ilmercato europeo a tuttele altre aree mercato delmondo che già adottanol’obbligatorietà dell’in<strong>di</strong>cazione<strong>di</strong> provenienzadei prodotti.“Sul tema – <strong>di</strong>chiara RossanoSol<strong>di</strong>ni – dobbiamoesprimere la nostra insod<strong>di</strong>sfazionecirca il fattoche il risultato non siastato ancora raggiunto.Un fatto inspiegabile, nonsolo perché sono numerosiormai i pronunciamentida parte delle istituzioniitaliane ed europeea favore <strong>di</strong> una etichettatura<strong>di</strong> origine, maanche perché il “made in”potrebbe far rientrare inItalia almeno il 30% <strong>di</strong> ciòche oggi è prodotto fuoridai confini nazionali.Infatti, molti <strong>di</strong> quelli cheora importano dall’esteronon potranno permettersi<strong>di</strong> far pagare a prezzi cosìelevati un prodotto fattoin Cina”:Fiamp quin<strong>di</strong> lamenta la<strong>di</strong>sattenzione per un sistemaproduttivo così importante,non solo in Italiama anche in Europa, epropone azioni specifiche<strong>di</strong> promozione commercialee industriale.“Sono due gli interventiche Fiamp ritiene urgenti– illustra il presidente – ilprimo riguarda le politiche<strong>di</strong> promozione internazionaledelle nostreproduzioni. Occorreintrodurre un principio <strong>di</strong>corrispondenza tra finanziamentipubblici e flusso<strong>di</strong> esportazioni, considerandoquesti ultimi comeun in<strong>di</strong>catore della competitivitàdei singoli settori.Focalizzare su settori chehanno <strong>di</strong>mostrato, anchein momenti congiunturali<strong>di</strong>fficili, la loro competitivitàsui mercati internazionali,come è avvenutoper il sistema Fiamp, nonè più un’opzione ma unanecessità”.Altrettanto prioritario, ilpresidente Fiamp considerail supporto alle piccolee me<strong>di</strong>e imprese delsettore per i costi dellacreatività, strumento prioritario<strong>di</strong> innovazione peri settori dell’accessoriomoda:” occorre un <strong>di</strong>segnoorganico <strong>di</strong> interventiagevolativi per la ricercacreativa e stilistica e <strong>di</strong>campionario. Sono questiinfatti gli strumenti concui l’offerta italiana si èconquistata la leadershipmon<strong>di</strong>ale in un mercatoglobale in cui prevale l’imitazioneo la standar<strong>di</strong>zzazione.Per i settori rappresentatida Fiamp, lacontinua innovazione sulprodotto costituisce lavera chance competitiva”.Rossano Sol<strong>di</strong>ni,Chairman of Fiamp,the Italian Federationof Fashion and PersonalAccessories reporteda positive final balanceafter many that had beenmade all the more <strong>di</strong>fficultby a complicatedcompetitive situation andcommercial strategiesdecided in EU headquarters.Figures drawn up forFiamp by the E<strong>di</strong>sonFoundation speak clear:after an improvement in2006, but still with manyuncertainties, Italianfirms managed to gainback what they had lostwith unfavourableexchange rates and fierceAsian competition. In thefirst nine months of 2007,exports of the five industriescomprised in theFiamp system once againbegan to grow at a significantrate: leather(+6.1%), leather goodsand luggage (+16.7%),footwear and components(+2.7%), glasses (+14.1%),jewellery (+19.1%). Comparedto the same periodlast year, the value ofexports increased by9.5%, reaching a total ofalmost 16 billion Euros.The growth of 1.3 billionEuros of Fiamp’s exportsexceeds that of exports ofGreece and Denmark puttogether.“On the whole, 2006-2007 was a two-year periodof recovery for theFiamp system,” commentedChairman Sol<strong>di</strong>ni,“although some sectorscontinued to experience<strong>di</strong>fficulties, due above allto the unequal Asiancompetition and incongruitiesarising from theexchange rates of the dollarand the Chinese Yuan.Nevertheless, these two elementswere more thancounterbalanced by thewinning competitivecharacteristics of “madein Italy” products. Weabandoned the productionof lower price rangesand concentrated on themid-high bracket wherewe have always beenunrivalled world leadersfor fashion accessories.Companies made thistransition without thebacking of an appropriateEU trade policy or anational strategy for anindustrial comeback.”This omission, highlighte<strong>di</strong>n Fiamp’s survey, isincomprehensible in lightof the importance that theItalian Fiamp system representswithin the contextof the European economy.Italy tops the EU chartswith global exports of 20billion Euros and a cre<strong>di</strong>tbalance of over 11 billionEuros: all five of theFOTOSHOE15 15
Meetings“ SENZA DI NOI L’EUROPA SAREBBE PIÙ POVERA”“Without us Europe would be even poorer”Fiamp system’s sectors putItaly in the lead as topexporting country with acre<strong>di</strong>t balance thatexceeds all other EUcountries. For the Fiampsectors, our industrialmanufacturing system isthe most important Europeanproduction pool aswell as the one that createsthe biggest trade surplus.Comparing the EUFiamp system to the Italianone you see that in2006 the trade deficit ofthe 26 countries, withoutcounting Italy, was 11.6billion while with the 5.3billion Euros of the Italiantrade surplus theEuropean deficit drops to6.3 billion Euros.“Without the ItalianFiamp system,” continuedRossano Sol<strong>di</strong>ni, “the EUeconomy would be muchpoorer since it wouldhave a greater deficit.These figures highlight theabsolute leadership of“made in Italy” fashionaccessories in Europe,bearing in mind thatmany French designerlabels’ fashion accessoriesare also made in Italy.Nonetheless, there is noreal industrial and commercialpolicy to relaunchthe sector,although the added valueof the Italian Fiampindustries can be comparedto that generatedby the French telecommunicationsdevices and issuperior to the Germanand French aerospaceindustries. In spite of this,our system is consideredless strategic and lessimportant: an error ofevaluation that we wouldhave paid dearly had itnot been for the innovationof our companiesand the resourcefulnessof our entrepreneurs.”Hence the Fiamp Federationhas two big requeststo make of the Europeanand Italian governmentregar<strong>di</strong>ng the principlesof legality and transparency.With regards to the first,Fiamp demands greaterincisiveness to combat thefar-reaching phenomenonof fake products,both through increasedcontrols of imported goodsand through Court investigationsinto those whouse fake goods in anorganised system.“We cannot understandwhy fake products arousesuch in<strong>di</strong>gnation,” continuedFiamp’s chairman,“when it comes to foodstuffs,me<strong>di</strong>cines and toys,while when it comes tofashion products no-oneis aware that the midtermrisks are equallyhigh, as demonstrated bythe increasingly frequent<strong>di</strong>scovery of fashion productsthat are harmful tothe consumer’s health.This is just another reasonwhy we must havemore convincing sanctionsand fines: the current10,000 Euros areuseless because they arein fact irrecoverable.”However, the culture oflegality is something thatmust also be tackled onan international level,stresses Mr. Sol<strong>di</strong>ni, “withCustoms policies based oncriteria of reciprocitybecause it is those whoplay without rules whoare the real protectionists.”When it comes to transparency,the adoption ofa norm making it compulsoryto <strong>di</strong>splay a labelof origin on goods importe<strong>di</strong>nto the EU meets withthe need to equalise theEuropean market with allthe other market areas ofthe world that alreadyadopt this mandatoryin<strong>di</strong>cation of origin onproducts.“Here, ” stated RossanoSol<strong>di</strong>ni, “we must expressour <strong>di</strong>sappointment thatresults have not yet beenobtained. This is inexplicable,not only because somany Italian and Europeaninstitutes havedeclared to be in favourof a label of origin, butalso because the “madein” label could give Italyback at least 30% of whatis today produced outsideour national boundaries.In fact, many of thosewho currently importfrom abroad could nolonger afford to put suchhigh prices on productsmade in China.”So, Fiamp complains ofthe lack of interest insuch an important productivesystem, not onlyin Italy but also in Europeand proposes the promotionof specific commercialand industrialactions.“There are two manoeuvrethat Fiamp thinks areurgent,” explained theChairman, “the firstregards the internationalpromotion of our production.We must establish a<strong>di</strong>alogue between publicfinancing and the flow ofexports, considering thelatter as an in<strong>di</strong>cator ofthe competitiveness of singlesectors.Focusing on sectors thathave demonstrated theircompetitiveness on internationalmarkets, as hasthe Fiamp system, even in<strong>di</strong>fficult economic situations,is no longer anoption but a necessity.Fiamp’s Chairman considersequally importantthe backing of the industry’ssmall and me<strong>di</strong>umfirms to help them sustainthe costs of creativity,which goes hand in handwith innovation for producersof fashion accessories,“we need to facilitatecreative and designresearch and the productionof samples. In fact,these are the instrumentsthat have given Italianproducts the leadership ina global market dominatedby imitations andstandar<strong>di</strong>sation. Forindustries represented byFiamp, the continuousinnovation of products iswhat represents the realcompetitive chance.”FOTOSHOE15 16