Maglieria Italiana n° 184 - 2° semestre 2016

ENGLISH TRANSLATION
thorough information and in-depth analyses of the seasonal trends.
The positive results of the efforts of the organizational pool of the
French fair - which brings together the worlds of Première Vision
Fabrics, Première Vision Leather, Première Vision Designs, Première
Vision Accessories, Première Vision Yarns and Première Vision
Manufacturing-Knitwear Solutions - were immediately apparent:
the most recent edition, which was held at the Paris Nord-Villepinte
facility from 13 to 15 September of this year, saw the participation of
1,898 exhibitors (of which139 were new entries) and 56,475 buyers:
very high numbers, confirming Première Vision as the leading trade
fair serving the fashion sector. The fair is growing and it registered
good attendance results compared with the February 2016 session
- with increases both in the numbers of buyers (+2.7%) as well as
the number of buyers, a key consideration, (+10%) - in the face of
a slight drop regarding last year’s summer session (-1.3% when it
comes to the exhibitors and -8.8% in terms of the buyers). Very
significant results, especially if one stops to thing that they were
achieved at such a critical juncture for the entire sector, menaced
by the economic crisis,social tensions, acts of terrorism, less growth
and, in certain cases, crises of a nature usually associated with
emerging countries, factors which have contributed to the negative
result registered by consumers of textile and apparel products and
leather items (-0.3% in 2015). Première Vision has always had a
conspicuous international scope: the foreign buyers in attendance
amount to a whopping 73%, coming from more than 100 different
nations. Indeed, one of the principal prides and joys of the big
Parisian fair is precisely the composition of th buyers, made up of
high-level professionals, industry members who are serious about
their work and eager to make orders right at the fair. The ranks of
the fairgoers are composed of independent designers and people
working for the style offices of the large groups as well as the small
and medium businesses. The range of the market in which these
industry members operate is extensive, from the large wholesale
operations to the luxury fashion houses, including the middle and
high-end range of the market. The largest contingent of buyers is
that of the French, but the list of the top ten countries represented
at the fair also includes Italy, the United Kingdom and Spain (a
triumvirate whose numbers have remain steady for a number of
seasons), following by China, Germany, the United States, Turkey,
Belgium and Japan. When it came to the exhibitors, this fair also
managed to register general satisfaction, both on the part of the
habitués, as well as that of those taking part in the fair for the very
first time. This is what was said by the people at the helm of Rimafil,
a Spanish yarn firm which made its debut in the Première Vision
Yarns section: “This was our first time at the fair and it strikes us
as the perfect place to make new business contacts: here one
finds plenty of French, Spanish and Italian industry members,
but there are also Mexicans and Americans. We presented three
of our collections at the forums, areas that attracted a lot of traffic
an interest, and we noticed how a lot of the buyers then went on
to seek out and visit our stand after having been exposed to our
products. The Chinese industry members with Suzhou Lanbeir,
making their debut at the fair in the Knitwear Solutions section,
also had a glowing opinion of the fair: “This is our first time to attend
the fair and it has proven to be a very worthwhile experience.
We had an opportunity to welcome to our stand contingents from
France, England, Germany and Sweden, as well as buyers from
much further afield, countries likethe United States and Canada”.
THE IFM-PREMIÈRE VISION BAROMETER
This new tool has come into being as a result of a synergistic relationship
between Première Vision and IFM -Institut Français de la
Mode-. The barometer analyses the selection of goods presented
at the Parisian fair in the context of the economy of the textile and
leather sectors on a worldwide scale. Launched in January of 2016
and expected to continue for 3 years, this IFM - Première Vision
initiative, this tool for measuring «the economy of the creative
materials for the fashion industry», is intended as a shared center
for research and transmitting knowledge regarding the economy of
textiles and leathers for the fashion and clothing industries with a
high degree of added value. In addition to serving as an international
economic indicator of the activity of materials - fabrics and leathers
- for the purpose of creative fashions, implemented by means
of th IFM / Première Vision barometer, the research and reflections
are based on the analysis of the business situation of the industry;
regarding market changes and developments - changes in behaviors
and consumption, evolutions in terms of shopping calendars; as
well as the implementation of specific studies.
KNITWEAR SOLUTIONS
The section of the fair devoted to creative rectilinear knits brought
together 33 exhibitors in the No. 6 North Pavilion, next to Première
Vision Yarns (56 exhibitors), which had moved from Pavilion 5. A
move intended to bring together the selection of fibers and yarns
for weaving purposes with the knitting companies who are best
equipped to interpret these materials, in order to offer the buyers a
more legible and complete “knitwear universe”. In a parallel manner,
Knitwear Solutions was strategically located near to Première
Vision Manufacturing, in order to kindle synergies among the visits
associated with product development and those associated with
purchasing the products. The Forums of Première Vision Yarns and
Knitwear Solutions, up untilnow separate, have been merged to
creat a single source of fashion information and given the name of
the Yarn & Knitwear Forum, from which buyers were able to obtain
very worthwhile inspirations regarding the use of the fibers and
yarns in the process of weaving and the process of making circular
and rectilinear knits. The knit stitches were created in collaboration
with the E. Miroglio yarn company and the Jean Ruiz and Ellynore
knitting companies For this edition, devoted to the autumn-winter
of 2017-18, Première Vision charged the talented Xavier Brisoux
with the conception and creation of a collection, in keeping with
the theme of Twist & Turn, visible in the center of the forum.
AUTUMN-WINTER 2017/18 - TRANDS AND STYLE SIGNALS
Première Vision has elaborated and presented six trends for autumnwinter
2017/18. A cold season marked by creative energy, granting
the designers a wide range of ideas and stimuli.
Astounding Darks is the theme of theatrical dark tones that leave room
for dashes of more luminous colors, like those of jellied sweets, or
the nuances o ace powder. Another important aspect of this theme
are the sophisticated finishes that showcase a masterful use of color.
Joyful Comfort is the theme of fantasy and eccentricity. The surfaces
boast irregular textured effects, printed motifs and applied accessories.
A theme focused on patterns and luxurious applications,
generating a mirror or metallic effect, for endless luxury.
Truly Large provides a macroscopic vision of the material: bringing
out the weaves and the motifs, for the most part geometric, like
diagonal stripes, herringbone, the patterns with a natural inspiration
and the micro-prints, as if viewed under a magnifying glass.
The handmade effects, such as openwork, are also important.
More than Perfect celebrates the cleanness and regularity of the
weaves, the luxurious simplicity of the accessories, the rigorous
geometry of the prints. Everything in this theme is orderly, with a
sense of elegance and comfort, thanks to the soft, lightweight and
elastic materials.
New Skins represents a keen interest in the unorthodox and unusual;
new textures, new surfaces and new colors for entirely new looks.
Sophisticated opalescence, silken textures, metallic highlights, furry
and scale-like effects: fabrics, leathers and accessories reinforce
the look. Super-modern.
Shine constitutes a hymn to the future and advanced technology:
wet looks, colors inspired by the evanescent tones of liquid metals
and cellophane effects in order to explore and expand the borders
of fashion. The colors are dark, with dashes of vivacious hues, the
accessories rich and shimmering.