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Beachwear on stage n° 15

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trend forecast<br />

Vivetta Cardo haute<br />

couture 2017, foto Delphine<br />

Chanet per Palace Costes<br />

Magazine (@Peclers Paris-<br />

Splendeur et Désordre).<br />

attraverso il linguaggio digitale,<br />

creando marmi magici ed effetti<br />

di pietra naturale. Un camouflage<br />

c<strong>on</strong>temporaneo mette<br />

d’accordo natura e paesaggio<br />

urbano. A livello nanometrico, i<br />

pattern si astragg<strong>on</strong>o, alterando<br />

e manipolando le pelli animali,<br />

le venature del marmo e della<br />

corrosi<strong>on</strong>e. Il mare ispira c<strong>on</strong><br />

richiami alle gocce, ai riflessi e<br />

a segni che ricordano l’acqua. I<br />

t<strong>on</strong>i scuri della natura riesc<strong>on</strong>o a<br />

unire questo ambiente a quello<br />

urbano. Le sfumature della<br />

foresta, densa di pini, cedri, di<br />

tinte kaki funzi<strong>on</strong>ali, di marr<strong>on</strong>i<br />

e di terra bruciata. Silhouette<br />

rivestite c<strong>on</strong>ced<strong>on</strong>o spazio a<br />

pattern iperscalati. Per c<strong>on</strong>trasto<br />

si prop<strong>on</strong>g<strong>on</strong>o stili chi enfatizzino<br />

la natura, modellando<br />

il corpo c<strong>on</strong> tagli su misura che<br />

lo esaltano. Outerwear e moda<br />

mare si f<strong>on</strong>d<strong>on</strong>o, il c<strong>on</strong>cetto di<br />

ibrido è al centro.<br />

ARTFUL<br />

Le tradizi<strong>on</strong>ali abilità artigianali<br />

poss<strong>on</strong>o essere reinventate o<br />

mescolate a computer grafiche<br />

hi-tech per trovare una sintesi tra<br />

nostalgia e ottimismo, prop<strong>on</strong>endo<br />

un futuro globale che sia<br />

innovativo ed eccitante. I tessuti<br />

cott<strong>on</strong>-touch c<strong>on</strong>trastano c<strong>on</strong> materiali skin-touc. Charmeuse<br />

basiche s<strong>on</strong>o accostate a crochet, plissé, piqué c<strong>on</strong> effetti nido<br />

d’ape. I tessuti s<strong>on</strong>o uniti o stampati per dare più prof<strong>on</strong>dità al<br />

disegno. Pattern assolutamente innovativi, colorati, divertenti e<br />

audaci. Questi design, imitano, combinano e celebrano forme<br />

sperimentali di processi creativi, riutilizzando e ridefinendo la<br />

waste-art, la moda e il trash. I pattern si sovrapp<strong>on</strong>g<strong>on</strong>o mixando<br />

spazi ed epoche. Piccole grafiche d’ispirazi<strong>on</strong>e rétro si mischiano<br />

a pattern liberamente ispirati a Memphis. Pattern africani si<br />

mescolano a strisce tagliate e incollate. Pannelli audaci e blow<br />

up rimandano alla pop art mentre l’espressività delle emotic<strong>on</strong><br />

ric<strong>on</strong>duce ogni cosa ai nostri giorni. T<strong>on</strong>i freschi, brillanti per<br />

uniti audaci e c<strong>on</strong>trastanti. Colori luminosi si unisc<strong>on</strong>o per create<br />

arm<strong>on</strong>ie gioiose. Silhouette sexy e da ragazzina. Bikini piccoli e<br />

brasiliani, abiti dal taglio asimmetrico e leggings. Graziosi reggiseni<br />

e slip riadattano l’intimo a costume da bagno. Il total look richiede<br />

accessori, coordinati e n<strong>on</strong>, sia per la spiaggia che per la città.<br />

INTO THE CLOUD<br />

I tessuti odierni puntano a quest’obiettivo c<strong>on</strong> stampe futuristiche<br />

e storie di fibre performanti. Sperimentazi<strong>on</strong>i nel design intelligente,<br />

multidisciplinare e nel manufacturing, originano plissé iperdinamici,<br />

materiali resp<strong>on</strong>sivi e sensoriali, tessuti che protegg<strong>on</strong>o dai<br />

paparazzi e mett<strong>on</strong>o in guardia sui rischi dell’aria che respiriamo.<br />

Morbidi tessuti uniti o micro-texture appena accennate rimandano<br />

a stampe futuristiche. Il c<strong>on</strong>sumatore può creare i pattern: i fablab<br />

diventano gli strumenti c<strong>on</strong> cui il design stesso, c<strong>on</strong> l’aiuto di algoritmi,<br />

dà vita al design generativo. Gradienti multicolori, psichedelici,<br />

quasi intergalattici, hanno la fascinazi<strong>on</strong>e dei fluidi in movimento.<br />

La materia prima proviene dalla terra (liquidi, ripetizi<strong>on</strong>i grafiche,<br />

camouflage virtuali) e dallo spazio (razzi, pianeti e costellazi<strong>on</strong>i).<br />

T<strong>on</strong>i acidi e luminosissimi, dove gradienti e pattern rasterizzati<br />

si associano a immaginari virtuali e meditativi. T<strong>on</strong>i luminosi si<br />

costumes, but with a futuristic rock flair, while the materials<br />

evoke a ream of impalpable lightness, layered tulle, multicolored<br />

satins in iridescent hues, luminous micro-applicati<strong>on</strong>s and<br />

details imbued with an alluring lunar sheen.<br />

MINIMALISM AND TRIBAL PURISM<br />

The proud Masai and the victory at Zabriskie Point. Earth has<br />

been linked to the Masai, a nomadic people, proud of their<br />

traditi<strong>on</strong>s but, most of all, indissolubly b<strong>on</strong>ded with the earth,<br />

the mother and origin of every civilizati<strong>on</strong>. In our reflecti<strong>on</strong>s<br />

<strong>on</strong> this theme, we are shown the way by the Masai people,<br />

here in the guise of cricket players, a sport they learned under<br />

British col<strong>on</strong>ial rule. The match takes place at Zabriskie Point<br />

which film director, Michelangelo Ant<strong>on</strong>i<strong>on</strong>i, made famous<br />

as a place of freedom and love. The visi<strong>on</strong> here is purist and<br />

suggests a new minimalism by means of materials such as<br />

cott<strong>on</strong> and wool, silk and linen, in virgin form, i.e. organic and<br />

wild, yet still soft and lightweight. The tribal graphic aspect<br />

is subdued both in terms of the colors and the more linear,<br />

primary forms. The decorative embellishments also manifest<br />

themselves as c<strong>on</strong>tinuous lines in the darkest t<strong>on</strong>es, but always<br />

t<strong>on</strong>e-<strong>on</strong>-t<strong>on</strong>e or black.<br />

MAREDIMODA<br />

SWIMWEAR<br />

AD HOC<br />

An ad hoc, dynamic design process gives the freedom to pick,<br />

mix, colour and layer. Modular outfits combine and c<strong>on</strong>nect in<br />

new ways to morph from swimwear to sportswear to anywear.<br />

Fabrica are selected to provoke creativity and industrial<br />

ambiti<strong>on</strong> in design. Choose compact, functi<strong>on</strong>al swim and<br />

sports fabrics, either plains or with surface or knit-in designs,<br />

grids, meshes and heather effects to represent c<strong>on</strong>structi<strong>on</strong><br />

materials. Lightweight fabrics allow layering and foam sculpts.<br />

Each wearer designs the surface, c<strong>on</strong>structs the outfit and then<br />

flexes it as needed. Think rétro c<strong>on</strong>structi<strong>on</strong> toys, then mash<br />

that with computer graphic patterns, laser cut holes, printed<br />

meshes and rhythmic graphic patterns and jacquard weaves.<br />

Meccano shades without the flatness of pure primaries - these<br />

are more sophisticated mid-t<strong>on</strong>e brights to colour block with<br />

sturdy darks and hazy pastels. A hard-core sporting foundati<strong>on</strong><br />

for a fun-filled lifestyle. Styles are bold, sporty and graphic.<br />

Modular pieces layer and combine. Functi<strong>on</strong>ality is accentuated<br />

as zips, tapes and trims make flexibility a feature. These are<br />

hybrid garments for every element of each crazy day.<br />

NEXT NATURE<br />

Take a holistic approach, c<strong>on</strong>siderate of the full process from<br />

ethical sourcing, integrity of design, producti<strong>on</strong> methods and<br />

disposal after use. Man-made fabrics, inspired by nature,<br />

these smart fabrics mimic nature’s sophisticated aesthetics<br />

and intelligence. Surfaces are smooth skin, fur or carapace.<br />

Rough weaves of strips and tapes, or rips and mending combine<br />

with surface effects of floating threads and fringes. The forest<br />

inspires patterns with t<strong>on</strong>al palm leaves and feathers. Natural<br />

irregularities are mimicked using digital language to create magic<br />

marls and natural st<strong>on</strong>e effects. C<strong>on</strong>temporary camouflage<br />

blends nature with the urban landscape. At Nano level we<br />

abstract patterns, glitching and manipulating animal skin, marble<br />

and corroded effects. The sea inspires with drops, reflecti<strong>on</strong>s<br />

and water-made marks. Deep natural shades combine urban<br />

and natural envir<strong>on</strong>ments. Forest shades feature with dense<br />

pines and cedars, utilitarian kakis, browns and burnished<br />

terra tints. Covered silhouettes provide space for hyper-scale<br />

patterns. To c<strong>on</strong>trast we propose styles that help nature by<br />

shaping the body using body-tuning cuts and tailoring. Swim<br />

and outerwear styles fuse, as hybrid is the key.<br />

ARTFUL<br />

Traditi<strong>on</strong>al folk craft skills can be re-interpreted or blended with<br />

high-tech computer graphics for a synthesis between nostalgia<br />

and optimism for a global future that is refreshing and exciting.<br />

Cott<strong>on</strong>-touch fabrics c<strong>on</strong>trast with skin-touch materials.<br />

Basic charmeuses sit al<strong>on</strong>gside crochets, plissé, piqués and

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