CAPOLAVORO-Magazin 04

60 | CAPOLAVORO
Fine Jewelry is like Art
See Jewelry through the Eyes of Katarina Perez @katerina_perez!
The International Jewelry Expert in Conversation with CAPOLAVORO Magazine
As a globetrotter in the world of jewelry and a prominent member of the jewelry community, she celebrates her deep love for precious
and fine jewelry every day. The Russian-born influencer based in Paris is a sought-after judge at jewelry competitions around the
world - from Las Vegas to Munich, she gives lectures, advises companies, and shares images and news from the world of luxury jewelry
with her around 400,000 followers through her blog, which is celebrating its 10th anniversary this year. We spoke with the influencer.
Congratulations on your 10th anniversary!
You have interviewed many
famous personalities from the jewellery
business yourself over the years.
Which individuals have impressed
you the most and why?
Thank you, I can‘t believe how fast the
time has passed! When I interview people,
I love to listen to their stories, uncover
their experiences and inspirations, and
go behind the scenes of their jewellery
creations. Of course, some people share
more than others, but a bright spark of
information always leads to a beautiful
Instagram post or an article on KaterinaPerez.com.
One of my favourite interviewees
has to be Francesca Cartier, the
author of ‚The Cartiers: The Untold Story
of the Family Behind the Jewellery Empire“.
She had so many wonderful stories
to share about her family and the Maison
that has become an icon worldwide.
Jewellery isn‘t just about the here and
now but the dynasties that have shaped
what it means to adorn oneself in diamonds
and gems. That‘s such a powerful
thing.
How has your relationship with jewellery
changed over the past ten years
as you have gained more experience?
When I started writing about jewellery,
I already had a significant amount of
knowledge about the art and craft of jewellery
from working in boutiques.
I held positions at Tiffany & Co., Chaumet,
Asprey and Boghossian in London
while simultaneously studying for
a Gemmology Diploma at Gem-A – the
Gemmological Association of Great Britain.
In 2011, after seven years in sales, I
learned so much about people and their
tastes.However, I was always asked the
same questions about carat weights
and costs. I longed to explain to clients
how the price of a jewel isn‘t dictated solely
by carat weight but by craftsmanship,
innovation, ideas, inspirations, and
materials… this is what I wanted to communicate
to the world.
I felt the pull to articulate my passion for
jewellery artistry, and there was no better
way of communicating than via my
blog. That‘s how it all started; it was the
launchpad for where I am today. Over
the last ten years, I have enriched my
understanding of jewellery design and
aesthetics through global travel, meeting
new people, and getting hands-on
with as many new pieces as possible. I‘ve
also broadened my horizons in terms of
jewellery culture and have sought to understand
exactly how culture, country
and customs shape the jewellery that
we all wear, both in everyday life and on
special occasions. Fortunately, my curiosity
has grown year after year, and I see
no sign of it slowing down. This speaks
to my overwhelming passion for jewellery
as an art form.
What were some significant and lasting
experiences during this time?
Ten years ago, when I first launched
KaterinaPerez.com, I never would have
thought I would one day become a respected
international jewellery
columnist with 400,000 Instagram followers
and tens of thousands of readers
on my website. I have enjoyed many
highlights, but there are two that I always
return to in my mind. The first was
when I received the Influencer of the
Year Award at International Jewellery
London in 2018. The second was when
I was given the ‚Jewellery Influencer‘
accolade at the World Influencers and
Bloggers Association (WIBA) Awards
in 2021. More recently, I have had the
pleasure of judging the Couture Design
Awards and have enjoyed some great
red-carpet experiences as a guest at the
Cannes Film Festival and Venice Film
Festival. Although I am always thrilled to
receive such recognition, what matters
most is the opportunity to represent jewellery
on an international stage.
I must also mention the people who
have helped to make the last ten years
so extraordinary. I am fortunate to have
met thousands of jewellery designers,
gemstone specialists, collectors, auctioneers,
dealers, retailers, and creative directors
who have shared their experiences
and knowledge with me. Meeting
such a remarkable group of talented
people will always be the best part of
my profession.
May we ask you a question that you
have already asked others? How did
you discover your love for gemstones
and jewellery?
I was born in St Petersburg to a family
of restorers: my mother specialised in
painting, while my father specialised in
antique furniture. They fuelled my passion
for art and craftsmanship in a significant
way. There‘s a photo of me as a
three-year-old draped in my grandmother‘s
strings of beads and necklaces. I
suppose I discovered my love for jewellery
and gemstones at this moment! As
a child, I would root through her jewellery
box of necklaces, rings and earrings,
examine them, try them on, and, of
course, pirouette in front of the mirror,
admiring my fashion sense. Nothing has
changed in many respects – the only difference
is I am no longer in my grandmother‘s
living room but in high jewellery
boutiques worldwide.
Do you have favourite gemstones, or
changing preferences?
I don‘t have a single favourite gemstone.
Frankly, there are too many natural
treasures to choose from! However, I
appreciate rare varieties such as Imperial
topaz, Paraiba tourmaline and Mandarin
garnet. I often get asked if I can
pinpoint the ‚best‘ gemstone I have ever
seen, but after 15 years, this is an almost
impossible task. However, I can think
of two stones I have seen recently that
blew me away. The first is the Queen of
Africa – a flawless tsavorite garnet of 73
carats owned by Philippe Guilhem, the
founder of Mashandy Jewellery. The
second is a super rare red beryl of 205
carats with a dragon carved into it by
Patrick Dreher. This stone is now at the
Granada Gallery, founded to showcase
natural treasures by Jochen Leën.
This stone is now at the Granada Gallery,
founded to showcase natural treasures
by Jochen Leën.
Are there any gemstone or jewellery
trends that you can reveal to our
readers?
Recent high-profile events suggest jewellery
suites are back in fashion, as are
statement pieces with large central stones.If
the recent Cannes Film Festival is
anything to go by, the mantra for High
Jewellery right now is „the bigger, the
better“!
I think it is important to highlight statement
earrings, too, including jewels with
large volumes and bold proportions
and shoulder dusting styles that make
an impact. Choker necklaces and larger
pieces that sit at the very base of the
neck have won the hearts of countless
celebrities this season. Plus, the continued
obsession with chunky cuffs and
bangles has been a welcome breath of
fresh air. Stacking around the neck was
a big hit in the summer of 2022, and this
year I anticipate the trend moving to the
ears, wrists, and fingers instead. On a
more macro level, coloured gemstones
are going from strength to strength, as
well as jewellery with unconventional
materials and striking diamond cuts. In
general, customers want to feel unique,
and therefore a more diverse palette of
colours, shapes and textures is helping
them to achieve this goal. We can expect
to see more carved gemstones and unique
three-dimensional gemstone constructions
using rock crystal and other
‚semi-precious‘ stones. There‘s also a
blossoming of coloured titanium that‘s
adding lightness and energy to creations.
How important is the highest level of
craftsmanship - as also maintained
by CAPOLAVORO - for the beauty and
expression of a piece of jewellery
Craftsmanship in jewellery is what differentiates
commercial designs from
jewellery as an art form. If a brand pays
attention to the back and the front of a
jewel, meticulously considers each detail
and executes a sense of storytelling,
then this is craftsmanship at its highest
level. As they say, the devil is in the detail!
What is your stance on sustainability?
There has been a notable shift toward
„slow fashion“ principles in jewellery
over the last few years. Fewer novelties
are being released, yet I believe this welcome
change demonstrates a commitment
to being more considerate with
materials. Sustainability in jewellery is
a multi-faceted conversation that can‘t
be shrunk down to a handful of power
statements – it‘s an ongoing effort to
make supply chains stronger, handle
materials more conscientiously, and repurpose
what we can. I have witnessed
many heritage and emerging brands
have made great strides in sustainability
and transparency, and I look forward to
seeing how this evolves over the coming
years.
After ten years of experience in the
jewellery community, what advice
would you give to women in dealing
with jewellery
Absolutely trust your vision and do what
your heart tells you instead of listening
to the countless voices around you. Try
not to doubt yourself too much… after
all, we tend to learn the most through
trial and error. Most importantly, don‘t
create or choose designs just because
you think everyone will love them. Don‘t
make decisions to please others. It is far
better to inject your DNA and stand out
from the crowd than be one of many.
Clients find brands and stay with them
for this very reason, and individuals
who are purchasing jewellery should be
empowered to think this way too. Being
different is a beautiful thing.
What is your favourite piece from
CAPOLAVORO‘s collection?
The Billion Dreams Snow-Globe for the
playfulness of the design paired with
the rich warmth of 18k rose gold. The
details draw me in every single time. The
matching Billion Dreams rings would be
the perfect finishing touch!
„Fine jewelry and precious gemstones truly represent the beauty of human expression,“ says Katerina. „The time and effort spent on
designing fine jewelry and crafting gemstones give them weight, a deeper meaning that cannot be achieved by accessories that come
in and out of fashion. Jewelry is an extraordinary form of artistic pursuit that deserves the same admiration and ubiquity as music,
fashion, or painting. Fine jewelry is no different from art and should be enjoyed in the same way.“
CAPOLAVORO | 61