autumn 2012 - 4-Seasons.de
autumn 2012 - 4-Seasons.de
autumn 2012 - 4-Seasons.de
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100<br />
Dream Trip<br />
»When you walk long enough through Slot Canyon,<br />
you can rub yourself against the soft sand stone,<br />
rub yourself until you disappear.«<br />
different from most of the rest of the world. (…) As to when I shall<br />
visit civilization again, it will not be soon, I think. (…) I prefer the<br />
saddle to the streetcar and star-sprinkled sky to a roof, the obscure<br />
and difficult trail, leading into the unknown, to any paved highway,<br />
and the <strong>de</strong>ep peace of the wild to the discontent bred by cities«,<br />
wrote Everett Ruess in his last letter to his brother Waldo,<br />
packed his two mules and entered the Davis Canyon, a si<strong>de</strong>-canyon<br />
of the Escalante River near the town Escalante, and was never<br />
to be seen again. It was November 1934, Ruess was 20 years old.<br />
His poetry and his <strong>de</strong>parture without any compromise have ma<strong>de</strong><br />
him a cult figure today (more on page 103). Still, many myths and<br />
legends about what became of him breeze through the canyons of<br />
southern Utah.<br />
You really get un<strong>de</strong>rneath the surface of the mysterious area while<br />
you walk through the slot canyon: The walls press the air out of<br />
your lounges when you try to squeeze through the most narrow<br />
spots. When you walk long enough, you can rub yourself against<br />
the soft sand stone, rub yourself until you disappear. It might be<br />
the way Everett Ruess did it to become one with nature. »A short<br />
while ago they found dusted bones in the area where Ruess disappeared.<br />
It was quiet a media event because they claimed they<br />
were his remains. Scientists examined the bones but found out<br />
that they were from a different time«, Bill sums up the latest<br />
news. Today, he leads the Slot-Canyon-Tour together with Lanell.<br />
In the tight womb of mother earth.<br />
Aflame: evening walk in Snow Canyon State Park.<br />
Enough talk. Difficult canyon terrain in front of us with passages<br />
that require long ropes – Bill doesn’t want to tell us how long – in<br />
an area you could end up like Ruess. You can still see Zion’s<br />
mountains, Lanell points to the horizon before we make our way<br />
down. We sli<strong>de</strong> into a kind of rock tube, walk for a few metres, and<br />
there is already the next gap in the rock. Behind it, the sky and<br />
nothing else. Bill and Lanell ask us how far we think it goes down.<br />
10 metres? 15? 20? A little bit more, replies Lanell and smiles.<br />
Get us ready for the <strong>de</strong>scent! Belay, throw the rope and so on. No<br />
problem, I just learned it all yesterday. Bill checks the belay system<br />
once more carefully, eventually we all have to go down there.<br />
For a second I feel like James Bond and I arrive one skyscraper<br />
<strong>de</strong>eper. Even more far away from civilisation and the world. We<br />
thought we were already far away before. In the tight womb of<br />
moth er earth, Novalis would have loved the feeling of security and<br />
comfort. An elusive security because you cannot go back. We are<br />
all by ourselves, says Bill succinctly, when he unclips the safety<br />
carabiner and it falls in front of feet into the sand. Some foolish<br />
people dared to enter the slot canyons without a gui<strong>de</strong> although it<br />
is technically very <strong>de</strong>manding. The problem is the length of the<br />
rope they might un<strong>de</strong>restimate. So they might have to stop when<br />
The water can get pretty <strong>de</strong>ep in Zion Canyon. Sometimes you have to watch out you do not turn to stone in awe.<br />
high barriers are in their way or end up at a rock plateau high ><br />
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