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CANADIAN CHEF DONALD BERGER PHOTO: AARON JOEL SANTOS<br />

coff ee served with condensed<br />

milk) from the many hole-inthe-wall<br />

restaurants and hawker<br />

stalls along Yen Phu street.<br />

Tay Ho has world-class food<br />

and cocktails. Canadian chef<br />

Donald Berger was one of the fi rst<br />

operators to recognise the area’s<br />

potential. He says that when he<br />

established Vine restaurant there<br />

in 2003 there was little in the<br />

way of development; the area was peppered<br />

with water-fi lled bomb craters and people<br />

said he was “crazy” to open a fi ne-dining<br />

restaurant in a Vietnamese residential area.<br />

Today, Vine Restaurant and its sister<br />

wine and cigar shop Vine Cellar Door have<br />

built a solid reputation. Berger left Vine<br />

to start his own business in 2007, and<br />

the four-storey, glass-fronted<br />

Don’s, set on the lake opposite<br />

the Sheraton Hotel, has become<br />

synonymous with fantastic<br />

international cuisine, from pizzas<br />

and sandwiches to French cuisine<br />

and fi ne wines. Don’s rooftop oyster<br />

bar is a particularly popular haunt<br />

for locals and expats after dark.<br />

TOP/BOTTOM:<br />

Canadian chef<br />

Donald Berger;<br />

oysters at Don’s<br />

Tay Ho has worldclass<br />

food and<br />

cocktails — great<br />

to share over the<br />

latest gossip<br />

HOTSPOT //<br />

Media darling and TV chef<br />

Bobby Chinn is another Tay Ho<br />

resident. A steep rent rise forced<br />

him to relocate his city centre<br />

restaurant, and his boudoir-like<br />

signature bar and contemporary<br />

eatery is now on the shores of<br />

Tay Ho. It’s a mainstay of Hanoi’s<br />

dining scene with a plethora of<br />

loyal patrons booking its rosepetal-strewn<br />

tables. The laid-back<br />

downstairs lounge bar, hung with swooping<br />

curves of red silk and fl oating red Chinesestyle<br />

lamps, is a great place to share a shisha<br />

pipe and the latest gossip over a glass of<br />

wine or a cocktail.<br />

At the kitsch Love Chocolate café,<br />

waitresses wearing Parisian-style<br />

maid’s outfi ts serve chocolaty<br />

delights in a Victorian tea room-<br />

inspired setting. A bright yellow<br />

exterior houses The House of Son<br />

Tinh, where patrons can sample<br />

typical Vietnamese dishes with<br />

home-distilled rice liquors and<br />

rice wine cocktails.<br />

At Mandarin, a pair of<br />

ornate wooden gates leads to Vietnam’s<br />

035

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