november-2011

From top: From preparation to
presentation, exceptional detail is
paid to the food at Quique Dacosta;
brandy being reduced for seafood
consommé at the eponymous restaurant
ALICANTE
When the appetisers arrive they’re set
before me in a way that mimics the
setting, a conservatory in a beautifully
light and colourful garden. There’s a
basil leaf coated with cinnamon, a shoot
of the sweet South American plant
Stevia rebaudiana emerging from some
rocks, and a snail glistening behind a
small cup of delicious hazelnut oil. It’s
gloriously odd. Even the more familiar
choices don’t taste like I expect, and yet,
for all the presentational finesse, it’s
the flavours that are king. Like María
José San Román, Dacosta emphasises
the importance of Alicante’s produce.
“A chef can make a good meal out of
anything,” he says. “If you give Rafa
Nadal a stick he’ll still be able to hit the
tennis ball. But he’ll play a lot better
with a racquet!”
Respected food critics from the likes
of The New York Times have mentioned
Quique Dacosta as one of the potential
heirs to Ferran Adrià, but he’s also an
heir to the traditions of this region. His
father-in-law, who founded a restaurant
here, might not recognise much of what
he’s doing but he’d appreciate the quality
of the local ingredients.
Almost everything that I’ve eaten,
not just at Quique Dacosta but
throughout this trip, even the exotic
Stevia rebaudiana, was grown, fished
or farmed within greater Alicante. It’s a
tribute to the variety, not just of food but
of terrain and culture, which is on offer
beyond the resorts of Benidorm and
Santa Pola. For years Alicante has been
like a secret garden, hiding in the long
shadow cast by its own glorious beaches.
Thanks to Ferran Adrià and others it’s
not just the restaurants that are at last
coming into the light. TC
For more about Alicante visit your local
Thomas Cook or Going Places store, call
+44 (0)844 412 5966 or visit thomascook.com
Chris stayed at the Meliá Alicante
(thomascook.com ), in the heart of the city on
Postiguet beach, just a stone’s throw from the
gorgeous marina. Doubles start at £76.57
a night. For hassle-free travel along the
Costa Blanca, book a hire car with Avis.
Call +44 (0)8445 810159 or visit avis.com
Thomas Cook Travel
71