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GRAN CANARIA island’s most iconic landmark; a gargantuan natural monolith – and the beautifully preserved Tamadaba pine forest. It’s an unforgettable view – to see it with your own eyes, visit ramblingroger.com to book a guided tour or to order his essential 25 Great Hikes – Don’t Leave Gran Canaria Without Seeing It, available as a book, CD or PDF. I return, on bike, to Artenara with photographer pal Marcos, a keen mountain-biker – and not just to pay tribute to the Virgin of the Little Cave, the patron saint of Gran Canaria’s cyclists, at the Ermita de la Virgen de La Cuevita, a beautiful chapel cut into the cliff face 400m above the centre of the village. Artenara boasts plenty of caminos reales (royal roads), just as popular if travelling on two wheels rather than two feet. Marcos takes me on the 10km route connecting Arucas to Teror’s Pico de Osorio in the north of the island – helpfully 78 Thomas Cook Travel pointing out caves that can be used for shelter in the (unlikely) event of a downpour. The island’s off-road trails offer boneshakers galore. In central Gran Canaria, inhale the scent of fresh pine as you whizz down serpentine tracks. As Gran Canaria is like a miniature continent (with its distinct climate), you’ll be able to switch landscape backgrounds as you would screensavers. Head south to San Bartolomé and follow the volcanic craters which lead to Risco Blanco (White Cliff). Cycle Gran Canaria (cyclegrancanaria.com), run by retired Irish mountain bike pro Raymond Leddy, offers a range of guided rides, handily accessible from its Maspalomas base. Before Gran Canaria became a tourist hotspot, residents relied on agriculture to earn a living. The island’s goatherds and shepherds came up with a novel way to cross the ravines which The need to negotiate tricky terrain gave rise to the spectacular “shepherd’s leap” dominate the landscape – the salto de pastor (“shepherd’s leap”). You take a long wooden pole known as a lanza or garrote and then add metal tips (regatóns) to the end for extra grip. Imagine polevaulting – the technique involved is not dissimilar. I’m keen to have an afternoon session – with Victor from Mojo Picon Aventura (mojopiconaventura.com) – but my heart’s in my mouth when I attempt the dead-drop which is essentially a leap of faith: you jump and then jam your garrote on the rapidly approaching ground below your feet before sliding down the pole like a firefighter or lap dancer. From its practical origins, the shepherd’s leap has developed into a sport – think parkour with a stick – with regular competitive events held across the Canaries. But despite Victor’s excellent tuition, I still reckon I’d be more likely to pick up the wooden spoon prize than the PHOTOGRAPHY ALAMY
e CORDIAL www.cordialcanarias.com Call center: Tel.: +34 928 143 393 info@cordialcanarias.com Fax: +34 928 148 736 reservas@cordialcanarias.com
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travel Thomas Cook November/Decembe
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JAMAICA SAINT LUCIA ANTIGUA BAHAMAS
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COVER PHOTOGRAPHY DAVID CROOKES, SH
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Departures 18 Thomas Cook Travel Ce
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Page 34 and 35: Treasured island Forget the beach.
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Page 88 and 89: TUNISIA Maul and Qui-Gon, while the
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november-2011

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