december-2009

92
ARMANDO CHABLE, 24,
LIFEGUARD // “Right off
Mayakoba there is a reef
that has some of the best
fi shing in this region. It’s
just beyond the north of
Mayakoba. You can even fi sh
from land if you have a big
enough fi shing pole.”
tchotchke shops, you can fi nd plenty of interest
along the way. There are chaya juice stands,
taquerias and the Kumkum & Mezcal Room (2),
where you can sample one of 150 of the best
brands of fi rewater in the world.
Sampling is all you’ll be doing at this hour, of
course, but grab a bottle of Arellana to go.
Strolling farther, you come to 100% Natural (3), a
healthy, happy and shady grotto set well back from
the crowds on La Quinta. Take a seat among surfers and hippies, and order a salad of
fresh camarones and piña and a couple of chicken tacos. Then while away the afternoon at
the beach at the end of 12th Street, soaking in the vitamin D and surf scene before dinner.
Ever wonder what the ancient Mayans used to eat? Of course you have. It’s time to
fi nd out at Yaxche (4), where you sit before the bewitching altar of an ancient Mayan
divinity and order a heaping portion of tikin xic, a fl aky fi llet of locally snagged grouper
marinated in achiote paste and served on banana leaves.
Now it’s time to saunter along Playa’s storied playa. You weave among the lovers
and the late-night swimmers until you hit the Zenzi Beach Bar (5), a local favorite that
hosts movies in the sand on a wide-screen TV every Monday at 8 p.m. You grab a
reclining seat and take in a few minutes of The Shining as the moon shines above the sea.
“Aqui estaaaa Juanito!”
Getting up to order a drink, you confi de in the bartender that as much as you love
Kubrick, you’d prefer to dance a little salsa. She recommends Coco Bongo (6), a popular
night club on 10th Avenue and 12th Street. Cross La Quinta, which is now a tangle of
well-lubricated tourists and roving mariachi trios, and soon fi nd yourself sweating
under the disco ball. On the way back to the hotel, you stop at the local favorite, HC de
Monterrey (7), for some steak tacos smothered in black chile sauce so fi ery your mouth
will still be tingling as your head hits the pillow.
BASKET CASE Clockwise, from top, the Kumkum & Mezcal Room in Playa del Carmen; the
cabaña deck at Azulik; Playa’s Zenzi Beach Bar; and a taco from HC de Monterrey
ILLUSTRATIONS BY ESRA CAROLINE RØISE
3PD RIVIERA MAYA