december-2009

PHOTOGRAPH OF YOGA BY SHUTTERSTOCK
FREEDOM ROCK From left, exploring the Tulum ruins; seaside dream catcher; and Dos Ojos Cenote
homemade chips with spicy salsa, chicken quesadillas and the local specialty (not for the tender
of tummy): lizard soup. Fired with chopped chilies and bolstered by clumps of chaya, it tastes
sort of like...chicken.
There’s no better way to work off such a repast than a swim in bracingly refreshing water.
The entire Yucatán is a honeycomb of underground rivers and caverns called cenotes. None is as
profound as the legendary Dos Ojos Cenote (5). You hire one of the local Mayan guides, Miguel,
who equips you with snorkel, mask and fl ippers, and leads you into the chilly, crystal-clear
water. As the occasional diver passes below, you navigate the stalactites of the cavern ceiling. If
not for Miguel’s expert guidance, you’d easily get lost in the miles of “halls.” For an hour, you’re
on another planet.
Back in Tulum, you walk from your palapa to the Maya Spa (6), where you partake in an
ancient ablution known as a temazcal with a Mayan shaman named Rafael. He burns aromatic
copal resin in a chalice, asks for the protection of the gods and then leads you into a darkened
stone sauna, where you chant unintelligible Mayan phrases and swat yourself with bundles of
herbs. Couldn’t hurt, right?
For dinner, you opt for the open-air café El Mariachi (7) in the pueblo. Choose a table that
allows you to watch the lively town stroll past. The local mutt,
Juanito, will brush up against your leg, but the pile of grilled
fresh surf and turf—shrimp, squid, locally raised beef and
añejo-marinated pork—and the assortment of chili salsas are
too good to off er a stray. As the server brings you the check for
this princely meal (about $25), you secretly hope the crowds
don’t come rushing back for a little while longer. Like the
meal, it is almost too good to share.
RAFAEL NOH EHOC, 19,
PEDICABBIE // “After biking
around these Coba ruins
all day, I like to go into the
village to a place called Ki’ Ja
Nal and have cocinitas there,
or whatever the kitchen
is cooking. Every day the
food is different, but the
woman who owns it is a
very good cook. I like the
stewed chicken. It’s simple.”
Hemispheres executive editor MIKE GUY continues to chant
unintelligible Mayan phrases while sitting at his desk.
FIND INNER PEACE //
Tulum is crazy about
yoga // The quick trip from
Chicago or Washington, D.C.
and the mystical vibe together
draw yankee yogis to Tulum
like bees to organic miel. Three
top yoga resorts:
Maya Tulum is one of the
toniest, with exquisitely
built thatched-roof cabañas
and state-of-the-art studios
and spa treatments. Meals
are top-end vegetarian, and
breathlessly praised Ashtanga
classes have recently attracted
guests such as Heather Graham
and Anne Hathaway.
Cabanas Copal Hotel is a
much more “rustic” setting,
with a bar and restaurant,
homey staff and a spa. Enjoy
all-day classes in the “jungle
yoga palapa.”
Amansala is a newly rehabbed
and more fi tness-oriented
resort, with strength classes
and “Bikini Bootcamp” to go
along with the yoga.
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