january-2010

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HOT SPOT HOBART Travel straight to the heart of Hobart with a visit to its magnifi cent harbour WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY CORMAC HANRAHAN From atop Mount Wellington, I can see Hobart sitting picture perfect on the edge of the dark blue Derwent River. Australia’s southern-most capital is defi ned by water — deep in the harbour and fresh from the mountain. Hobart’s waterfront, a busy confi guration of docks, piers, wharfs and terminals, is collectively called Sullivans Cove. Once the warehouses, factories and slums of yesteryear, it’s today bounded by exquisitely restored rows of red-roofed sandstone buildings and is the casually sophisticated heart of this city by the sea. I begin my tour of this maritime gem by delving deep into Hobart’s watery belly on a guided walking tour of the town’s rivulet. The Hobart Rivulet Tour is a unique 90 minutes focusing on the very stream that provided the original settlers with life-sustaining fresh water; it now lies hidden under the CBD in a 1km stretch of interconnecting tunnels. We are led into a yawning cavern and wait for our eyes to adjust to the subterranean darkness. A bend in the drain means there’s no light at the end of this stretch of tunnel and the group instinctively huddles together before our guide’s torch fl ickers to life. She sweeps the light across a gallery of colourful graffi ti and begins to explain the historical signifi cance of this fresh water, the source of which is found in springs high up on Mount Wellington. Stepping gingerly over slippery patches of slime, our guide leads us further into the depths, pointing out archways and spooky side tunnels whose convict labour heritage is evident in century-old thumbprints left in the brickwork. 30 JANUARY <strong>2010</strong> After the tunnels I’m keen to get a good lungful of Tassie’s famous fresh air, and join Hobart Paddle for a kayak from nearby Sandy Bay Beach into Sullivans Cove. With considerably less fanfare than the maxi yachts received after the recent Sydney to Hobart race, we cross the watery fi nishing line enroute to the sheltered waters of the docks, passing the historic suburb of Battery Point. Slipping quietly under piers and gangways like a covert SAS operation (save
ONCE THE WAREHOUSES, FACTORIES AND SLUMS OF YESTERYEAR, IT’S TODAY BOUNDED BY EXQUISITELY RESTORED ROWS OF RED-ROOFED SANDSTONE BUILDINGS CLOCKWISE: Explore Sandy Bay Beach to Sullivans Cove by kayak; head underground to discover the city’s original water source; take the elegant Lady Nelson out for a sail HOT SPOT HOBART JANUARY <strong>2010</strong> 31
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