january-2010

of course for the “look at me, look at me”
yellow of our kayaks), it’s a genuine treat
to be able to come right up alongside the
trawlers, yachts and replica wooden masted
sailing ships moored in the wharf.
After some instructions, we’re left to
explore the wharf for several hours while
our guide slips quietly away and collects
lunch from a fl oating fi sh-and-chip shop.
We’re soon tucking into the catch-of-theday
without having to even get out of our
kayaks; it doesn’t get much better than
this. There’s something about the sea and
an open horizon — having endless space
in front of the eyes — that soothes the
mind, enables it to soften a little at the
edges and let go of some of life’s clutter.
There’s not quite the same serenity
in a souped-up lifeboat cresting a
5m swell that’s come straight out of
the lower latitudes somewhere near
Antarctica. I’m on a Bruny Wildlife
Adventure tour, a foray into the
Southern Ocean in a high-powered
speedboat, and loving it. All of a
sudden, the horizon shifts violently,
and my white-knuckled grip is accompanied
by involuntary “woo-hooing” as the boat free
falls into the trough of another wave.
When seas are calm, the captain lingers
alongside a bustling seal colony and the boat
“threads the needle” between soaring cliffs and
pillars of Jurassic-era dolerite jutting vertically
from the sea. Whales are commonly spotted
and photo opportunities abound. The tour is a
full-day affair, involving a massive catamaran,
mini bus and high-powered speedboat; talks
from enthusiastic and informative guides;
a restaurant-cum-gallery stopover; and a
gourmet cheese and salmon platter.
The next day, with nothing booked, I wander
over to the docks again and happen across
Rod, driver and proprietor of Hobart’s only
water taxi service. “I’m an on-call cab like
your standard issue, four-wheel job parked
over there on the street you see, but I’ve also
put together my own little best bits tour that,
for a set price, can take people around the
river and port,” he explains.
I jump aboard for an impromptu budget
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: The
Hobart waterfront is great for
strolling; check out Tasmanian
Museum’s exhibitions; shop at
Salamanca Market
ON SOLID GROUND
Hobart Maritime Museum
Explore Hobart’s rich maritime history,
including stories of whaling, early explorers,
convict settlers and the role of sailing and
steamships. Cnr Argyle and Davey Sts,
tel: +61 (3) 6234 1427
Shipwright’s Arms Hotel
Known as “Shippies” to locals, this authentic
English-style pub with accommodation upstairs
serves great seafood and features a sail-shaded
beer garden and walls decked with sailing
imagery and memorabilia. 29 Trumpeter St,
Battery Point, tel: +61 (3) 6223 5551
Tasmanian Museum and Art Gallery
New to the museum is its “Islands to Ice”
exhibition telling the story of polar exploration
and Australia’s role in expeditions. 40
Macquarie St, tel: +61 (3) 6211 4177
Mount Wellington Mountain Bike Descent
Get driven to the top of the mountain, then
you’re given a bike so you can zoom your
own way down. Experience the thrill of
mountain bike riding without the pain and
strain normally associated with getting to the
top. Island Cycle Tours caters for all ages and
experiences. Tel: +61 (3) 6228 4255
Salamanca Market
Hobart’s Saturday morning ’til afternoon
market attracts thousands with its food, music,
arts and crafts, collectables and clothing.
Salamanca Place, tel: +61 (3) 6238 2843
HOT SPOT
HOBART
JANUARY 2010 33