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038 GO MAGAZINE OCTOBER <strong>2010</strong> “LET’S PUT IT THIS WAY — I don’t think there’s any place you can drink better than Las Vegas.” When Jason Smith, the Bellagio’s director of wine, said those words to me over the phone, I couldn’t help but be skeptical. As a guy from restaurant-heavy New York who grew up in wine-obsessed Italy, how could I not be? The city of one-armed bandits, Wayne Newton and showgirls is now a great American wine destination? As someone who is studying to become a Master Sommelier, the gold standard in professional wine service, I couldn’t help but wonder whether Las Vegas’ wine culture was more glam than substance. And the only way to find out was to go there and taste it for myself. VNCITY BY EDWARD LEWINE • PHOTOGRAPHS BY JACOB KEPLER MY FIRST DISCOVERY DOESN’T SURPRISE me: Vegas sells a lot of wine. The Bellagio alone employs 15 sommeliers (and four Master Sommeliers); its inventory has more than 60,000 bottles and yearly sales are more than $38 million. And this is just one of around two dozen major resorts in town. Sure, those numbers are impressive, but as they say, size isn’t everything, right? The next thing I learn shocks me: Las Vegas has 15 Master Sommeliers (16 if you count nearby Henderson). There are 105 Master Sommeliers in the entire country, a testament to how hard the title is to earn. You have to pass four exams, each with a written portion, the final three with practical service tests and blind tastings, which require describing six IT HAS QUANTITY AND QUALITY—BUT WHAT REALLY SEPARATES LAS VEGAS’ WINE SCENE FROM THE REST IS ITS SUR- PRISING LACK OF PRETENSION.
TASTING NOTES Kevin Vogt, Master Sommelier at Delmonico Steakhouse in The Venetian, examines a bottle of wine. 039
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october-2010

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