BY SIMON ROGAN “This is our food, our chef, our restaurant and people will come hundreds of miles to eat here” ANDY CRONSHAW Manchester Evening News “Manchester is a lucky, lucky city” LISA MARKWELL The Independent BOOKINGS ARE RECOMMENDED 0161 236 3333 WWW.THE-FRENCH.CO.UK
the French at the Midland The Midland Hotel opened its doors on 5 September 1903. Throughout the years, the Grade II listed hotel has undergone a number of exciting changes, and many famous faces have walked through its doors. The 50-seat ‘The French’ restaurant has undergone a modern revamp. Designed by Trudi Purtill, the room has a neutral palette to match new chef Simon Rogan’s natural style. There are light wooden tables and chairs, pastel-green panels that lighten the walls, two large glittering chandeliers, and a beautiful carpet with a panelled wood-effect design. ‘Welcoming’-renowned chef Simon Rogan’s culinary career started aged 17 with an apprenticeship under Paul Norman at Rhinefield House Hotel in the New Forest, Hampshire. Simon gained an essential classical grounding, remaining there for five years, moving from apprentice to chef de partie, before joining chef Jean- Christophe Novelli at Geddes Restaurant in Southampton in 1988. He started as pastry chef, moving to sous chef. Overall, Simon worked on and off for Novelli for eight years, at both The Maltster’s Arms in Tuckenhay, Devon (owned by Keith Floyd with Novelli as head chef), and at Gordleton Mill, in the New Forest. During this period he also had stints with Marco Pierre White and John Burton Race. Since 2009 Simon has had his own organic farm just outside Cartmel. In addition to vegetables, herbs and fruit, he also rears special breed pigs, chickens and bees (and, very soon, sheep). Simon also established Aulis, his research and design facility adjacent to L’Enclume, which allows the chefs to develop new dishes and recipes. The space also has a six-seat private dining table where guests are treated to bespoke menus. FOOD REVIEW In <strong>Jun</strong>e 2011 Simon opened Roganic, a two-year ‘pop-up’, in Marylebone, London. The restaurant will close on 21 <strong>Jun</strong>e <strong>2013</strong> and the building will be redeveloped at the end of the short lease. In September 2012 he acquired the local Cartmel village pub, The Pig & Whistle. In November 2012 the farm was extended to 14 acres, with not only a Cartmel site, but also three others in Northumberland, inclusive of poly tunnels and renovation of a large Lakeland barn. The extra land enables the provision of home-grown products in all Simon’s restaurants. Last month we visited Simon as he took over the management of two restaurants in The Midland Hotel. The French, which was one of the first UK establishments to be awarded a Michelin star when the guide was launched in 1974, opened on 12 March <strong>2013</strong> as The French by Simon Rogan, and a second larger bar and dining room, Mr Cooper’s, is opening soon. The current menu offers modern British food that delivers consistently excellent flavours by using the best seasonal produce. Typical dishes include Artichoke broth with truffle dumplings, bacon, radish and hazelnut; Ox in coal oil, pumpkin seed, kohlrabi and sunflower shoots; Fresh crab, caramelised cabbage, horseradish, chicken skin and crow garlic; Sole fillet with onions, smoked scallops, parsley and salsify tops; Studded Cumbrian rose veal, blewits, split pea, sorrel and beetroot; St Jude, butternut, chives and walnuts, pear, meadowsweet, rye, buttermilk and linseeds. There is a serious impressive wine list, and with prices starting at £4 a glass or £25 per bottle, why not make a date for lunch (three courses from £29; or dinner, six courses from £55). The Midland Hotel Peter Street, Manchester M60 2DS 0161 236 3333 JUNE/JULY <strong>2013</strong> I 55
Change language