Didsbury-Magazine-Jun-Jul-2013

the French at
the Midland
The Midland Hotel opened its doors on 5 September
1903. Throughout the years, the Grade II listed hotel
has undergone a number of exciting changes, and
many famous faces have walked through its doors.
The 50-seat ‘The French’ restaurant
has undergone a modern revamp.
Designed by Trudi Purtill, the room has
a neutral palette to match new chef Simon
Rogan’s natural style. There are light wooden
tables and chairs, pastel-green panels
that lighten the walls, two large glittering
chandeliers, and a beautiful carpet with a
panelled wood-effect design.
‘Welcoming’-renowned chef Simon Rogan’s
culinary career started aged 17 with an
apprenticeship under Paul Norman at
Rhinefield House Hotel in the New Forest,
Hampshire. Simon gained an essential
classical grounding, remaining there for
five years, moving from apprentice to
chef de partie, before joining chef Jean-
Christophe Novelli at Geddes Restaurant in
Southampton in 1988. He started as pastry
chef, moving to sous chef. Overall, Simon
worked on and off for Novelli for eight years,
at both The Maltster’s Arms in Tuckenhay,
Devon (owned by Keith Floyd with Novelli as
head chef), and at Gordleton Mill, in the New
Forest. During this period he also had stints
with Marco Pierre White and John Burton
Race.
Since 2009 Simon has had his own
organic farm just outside Cartmel. In
addition to vegetables, herbs and fruit,
he also rears special breed pigs, chickens
and bees (and, very soon, sheep). Simon
also established Aulis, his research and
design facility adjacent to L’Enclume,
which allows the chefs to develop new
dishes and recipes. The space also has a
six-seat private dining table where guests
are treated to bespoke menus.
FOOD REVIEW
In June 2011 Simon opened Roganic, a
two-year ‘pop-up’, in Marylebone, London.
The restaurant will close on 21 June 2013
and the building will be redeveloped at the
end of the short lease. In September 2012
he acquired the local Cartmel village pub,
The Pig & Whistle.
In November 2012 the farm was extended
to 14 acres, with not only a Cartmel site,
but also three others in Northumberland,
inclusive of poly tunnels and renovation
of a large Lakeland barn. The extra land
enables the provision of home-grown
products in all Simon’s restaurants.
Last month we visited Simon as he took
over the management of two restaurants
in The Midland Hotel. The French, which
was one of the first UK establishments
to be awarded a Michelin star when the
guide was launched in 1974, opened on
12 March 2013 as The French by Simon
Rogan, and a second larger bar and dining
room, Mr Cooper’s, is opening soon.
The current menu offers modern British
food that delivers consistently excellent
flavours by using the best seasonal
produce. Typical dishes include Artichoke
broth with truffle dumplings, bacon, radish
and hazelnut; Ox in coal oil, pumpkin seed,
kohlrabi and sunflower shoots;
Fresh crab, caramelised cabbage, horseradish,
chicken skin and crow garlic; Sole fillet
with onions, smoked scallops, parsley and
salsify tops; Studded Cumbrian rose veal,
blewits, split pea, sorrel and beetroot; St
Jude, butternut, chives and walnuts, pear,
meadowsweet, rye, buttermilk and linseeds.
There is a serious impressive wine list,
and with prices starting at £4 a glass or
£25 per bottle, why not make a date for
lunch (three courses from £29; or dinner,
six courses from £55).
The Midland Hotel
Peter Street, Manchester M60 2DS
0161 236 3333
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