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Winter 2013 | The <strong>Christmas</strong> magazine for <strong>the</strong> free state of Saxony<br />
saxony<br />
<strong>Welcome</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong> <strong>Wonderland</strong><br />
Thomaner<br />
The advent time is exciting for <strong>the</strong><br />
choir boys, but also exhausting.<br />
A house visit at <strong>the</strong> boarding school.<br />
Erich Kästner<br />
As a child, <strong>the</strong> Dresden writer had <strong>to</strong><br />
be <strong>the</strong> ultimate diplomat<br />
at <strong>Christmas</strong>.<br />
Christs<strong>to</strong>llen<br />
Grandmo<strong>the</strong>r Zeidler bakes following<br />
<strong>the</strong> secret recipe from a princess, which<br />
was at some point s<strong>to</strong>len by a relative.
When <strong>the</strong> sun goes down,<br />
even <strong>the</strong> busy Leipzig folk<br />
wind down at <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong><br />
market. From <strong>the</strong> 26 November<br />
over 250 stalls invite you<br />
<strong>to</strong> stay a while, – and five days<br />
later, <strong>the</strong> first window of <strong>the</strong><br />
largest freestanding advent<br />
calender in <strong>the</strong> world opens<br />
– its frontage is 857 square<br />
metres.<br />
2<br />
Title: interTOPICS / W, J.Mehl; producer: Knuth Neuber Seiffener Candle arches Ore Mountains; Pho<strong>to</strong>s: Joerg Glaescher / laif; Sebastian Arlt<br />
Saxony
<strong>Welcome</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Winter <strong>Wonderland</strong><br />
Of course <strong>the</strong> Saxons didn't invent <strong>Christmas</strong>. Even <strong>the</strong>y would shy away from<br />
actually trying <strong>to</strong> steal <strong>the</strong> copyright from <strong>the</strong> almighty in heaven. But you<br />
could still almost believe that advent and <strong>the</strong> whole <strong>Christmas</strong> celebration were<br />
thought up in <strong>the</strong> heart of Saxony, between Upper Lusatia and <strong>the</strong> Vogtland.<br />
There is hardly ano<strong>the</strong>r spot in Germany that can boast such a wealth of <strong>Christmas</strong><br />
traditions as <strong>the</strong> free state of Saxony. This booklet will guide you through<br />
<strong>Christmas</strong> country, leading you <strong>to</strong> magical places where you can immerse yourself<br />
in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong> festivities. It will give you an insight in<strong>to</strong> how <strong>the</strong> Saxons<br />
keep <strong>the</strong>ir old traditions alive – and how <strong>the</strong>y have come up with new ones <strong>to</strong>o.<br />
The <strong>to</strong>ur starts at one of <strong>the</strong> most enchanting <strong>Christmas</strong> markets in Saxony and<br />
leads us <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Ore Mountains, where Bettina Bergmann still uses her grandfa<strong>the</strong>r's<br />
creations for inspiration for her own carvings. Then we carry on <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
kitchen where <strong>to</strong>p chef Benjamin Unger has reinvented <strong>the</strong> cuisine of <strong>the</strong> mountain<br />
region in Aue. A visit <strong>to</strong> Herrnhut is also on our schedule – this is where <strong>the</strong><br />
most beautiful <strong>Christmas</strong> stars in <strong>the</strong> country are hand crafted. In <strong>the</strong> Baroque<br />
castle Moritzburg visi<strong>to</strong>rs can travel back in time <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> recent past: <strong>the</strong> fairytale<br />
"Three gifts for Cinderella" was shot here in 1973. Nowadays this film is not only<br />
obliga<strong>to</strong>ry viewing at <strong>Christmas</strong> in Saxony but in many countries around <strong>the</strong><br />
world. With just as much cult status and still cosy: <strong>the</strong> advent time in <strong>the</strong> hip<br />
and trendy Neustadt district of Dresden, where "advent windows" are opened<br />
every day in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong> countdown. We will also be speaking <strong>to</strong> a dancing<br />
"nut cracker" from <strong>the</strong> Ukraine before spilling a carefully guarded secret. But<br />
that's all <strong>the</strong> clues we are going <strong>to</strong> give you about this reading odyssey...<br />
3<br />
The edi<strong>to</strong>rial team<br />
<strong>Welcome</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong> <strong>Wonderland</strong>
1 Annaberg:<br />
Blaze of light<br />
The <strong>Christmas</strong> market<br />
at Annaberg-Buchholz is<br />
considered <strong>to</strong> be one of<br />
<strong>the</strong> most beautiful in<br />
Saxony. Page 6<br />
2 LeiPzig:<br />
Advent in a box<br />
The members of <strong>the</strong><br />
Thomaner Choir enjoy<br />
<strong>Christmas</strong> most at<br />
boarding school. Page 8<br />
4<br />
3 GrünhAinichen:<br />
The lady who brings<br />
angels <strong>to</strong> life<br />
Carver craftswoman<br />
Bettina Bergman uses<br />
old patterns for her<br />
creations. Page 10<br />
4 Aue: Simple dishes<br />
filled with symbolism<br />
Top chef Benjamin<br />
Unger reinterprets dishes<br />
from <strong>the</strong> Ore Mountain<br />
region. Page 12<br />
5 Herrnhut:<br />
Let <strong>the</strong> stars shine<br />
What must be <strong>the</strong> most<br />
beautiful <strong>Christmas</strong><br />
accessory is created<br />
in this little twinkle<br />
<strong>to</strong>wn. Page 15<br />
Illustration: Artur Bodenstein / Caroline Seidler<br />
6 Dresden:<br />
Claiming three places<br />
under <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong><br />
tree<br />
<strong>Christmas</strong> Eve brought<br />
calamity <strong>to</strong> Erich Kästner.<br />
Page 16<br />
7 Freiberg: "Glück<br />
auf, Glück auf, der<br />
Steiger kommt!"<br />
The miner's associations<br />
still uphold <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong><br />
traditions of <strong>the</strong><br />
miners. Page 18<br />
Saxony
8 Moritzburg:<br />
Three s<strong>to</strong>ries about<br />
Cinderella<br />
"The" <strong>Christmas</strong> cult film<br />
was shot at <strong>the</strong> Baroque<br />
castle – and its ghost still<br />
remains <strong>to</strong> this day.<br />
Page 20<br />
9 Markneukirchen:<br />
The singing<br />
soul of wood<br />
Ekkard Seidl builds his<br />
violins with character in<br />
<strong>the</strong> music corner. Page 22<br />
10 Dresden:<br />
A window for every day<br />
The culture hotspot Neustadt<br />
celebrates advent<br />
in its own unique way.<br />
Page 24<br />
5<br />
11 Dresden:<br />
Magic in a snows<strong>to</strong>rm<br />
The ballerina Anna<br />
Merkulova dances in<br />
<strong>the</strong> "Nutcracker" – and<br />
loves <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong> atmosphere<br />
in Dresden.<br />
Page 26<br />
Where <strong>Christmas</strong><br />
is at home<br />
Advent turns <strong>the</strong> free state<br />
in<strong>to</strong> a winter wonderland.<br />
Discover it for yourself!<br />
12 Coswig:<br />
The secret purloined<br />
from <strong>the</strong> strict princess<br />
Christine Zeidler follows<br />
a special recipe for her<br />
Dresden "Christs<strong>to</strong>llen"<br />
cake. Page 28<br />
Saxony's <strong>Christmas</strong><br />
markets<br />
The most peaceful places<br />
in <strong>the</strong> free state over<br />
advent:<br />
Ten tips Page 30<br />
<strong>Welcome</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong> <strong>Wonderland</strong>
6<br />
Pho<strong>to</strong>: Franz Marc Frei<br />
Saxony
Annaberg<br />
ablaze with<br />
lights<br />
Looking for handcrafted carvings from <strong>the</strong> Ore Mountains?<br />
Third stand on <strong>the</strong> right. Plauen lace? Just opposite. Genuine<br />
Pulsnitzer gingerbread? Just here. Here you are. A friendly chat<br />
and a glass of punch? At just about every o<strong>the</strong>r stand – you're<br />
welcome! Every region of Saxony has its own specialities, its<br />
own dishes which are <strong>the</strong>re for you <strong>to</strong> discover at <strong>the</strong> market<br />
stalls. What <strong>the</strong>y all have in common though, is <strong>the</strong> idea of<br />
making <strong>the</strong> advent time in<strong>to</strong> something really special, a time<br />
of reflection and spending time with one ano<strong>the</strong>r. This is seen<br />
for example at <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong> market in Annaberg-Buchholz in<br />
<strong>the</strong> Ore Mountains, where 1200 men in traditional costume<br />
and uniform and 300 musicians get <strong>to</strong>ge<strong>the</strong>r for a massive parade<br />
on <strong>the</strong> fourth Sunday of advent. Toge<strong>the</strong>r <strong>the</strong>y bring <strong>the</strong><br />
old mining traditions <strong>to</strong> life. And <strong>the</strong>y want everyone <strong>to</strong> enjoy<br />
<strong>the</strong>mselves – with a glass of mulled wine at <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong><br />
market, which is usually deep in snow. To find out which o<strong>the</strong>r<br />
markets are worth a visit, turn <strong>to</strong> page 30<br />
7<br />
<strong>Welcome</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong> <strong>Wonderland</strong>
The elite boys' choir, <strong>the</strong><br />
Leipzig Thomaner Choir<br />
was founded 801 years<br />
ago. Advent is <strong>the</strong> most<br />
exhausting time of year<br />
for Max Gläser (right) and<br />
Jakob Schöbel (right bot<strong>to</strong>m)<br />
– but also one of<br />
<strong>the</strong> best: The halls of <strong>the</strong><br />
boarding school building<br />
are filled with a very special<br />
<strong>Christmas</strong> spirit.<br />
8<br />
Advent<br />
in <strong>the</strong> box<br />
The Thomaner Choir boys<br />
Max Gläser (13; soprano) and<br />
Jakob Schöbel (15; al<strong>to</strong>) on…<br />
...advent:<br />
Max: Our most stressful time of year! We already sing<br />
three times a week in <strong>the</strong> Thomaskirche, and now we<br />
have extra rehearsals, trips and carol singing evenings.<br />
For example at <strong>the</strong> Schloss Bellevue, at Mr.Gauck. I<br />
have already had <strong>the</strong> honour of shaking his hand at <strong>the</strong><br />
800-year celebration of <strong>the</strong> choir.<br />
Jakob: But it is still <strong>the</strong> best time of <strong>the</strong> year somehow<br />
– <strong>the</strong>re is just something very special about <strong>the</strong> atmosphere.<br />
And that's because we have a lot of little traditions.<br />
The boarding school is beautifully decorated; we<br />
sing <strong>Christmas</strong> carols and we even spend <strong>Christmas</strong><br />
Eve here.<br />
... life at boarding school:<br />
Jakob: There are currently 103 boys. We call <strong>the</strong> boarding<br />
school <strong>the</strong> "box". We live in small "houses", <strong>the</strong><br />
"dorm rooms" , where <strong>the</strong>re is a mix of boys from all<br />
school classes.<br />
Max: And <strong>the</strong>y are decorated by <strong>the</strong> "sixth formers" for<br />
<strong>the</strong> first of advent. They put <strong>the</strong> decorations up at<br />
night, when everyone is asleep. In my first year here<br />
I heard this clattering and rattling, but I didn't know<br />
what was going on. When I woke up in <strong>the</strong> morning,<br />
<strong>the</strong> windows were covered in pictures. There were advent<br />
wreaths, branches of pine and a lot of <strong>Christmas</strong><br />
decorations. When you've never seen it before – it's just<br />
awesome!<br />
Pho<strong>to</strong>s: Sebastian Arlt; Picture-Alliance / ZB / Waltraud Grubitzsch<br />
Saxony
9<br />
… Bach's <strong>Christmas</strong> Ora<strong>to</strong>rio:<br />
Jakob: Most people associate this piece with <strong>the</strong><br />
Thomaner Choir – which makes sense, because Bach<br />
wrote it especially for our choir nearly 300 years ago.<br />
We just call it <strong>the</strong> "WO" – which is short for <strong>the</strong> German<br />
title, <strong>the</strong> Weihnachtsora<strong>to</strong>rium and is less of a<br />
mouth–full. It is not all that hard, because as a choir<br />
singer you get <strong>to</strong> rest quite a bit during <strong>the</strong> arias and<br />
recitatives. Pure concerts are more tiring.<br />
Max: We start rehearsing about two weeks before <strong>the</strong><br />
first performances; and <strong>the</strong>n later on we rehearse with<br />
<strong>the</strong> Gewandhaus Orchestra. I don't know if I would<br />
get <strong>the</strong> whole WO right if you were <strong>to</strong> wake me up one<br />
night in <strong>the</strong> summer. But as a Thomaner you always<br />
have <strong>the</strong> basics off pat.<br />
.... <strong>Christmas</strong> day:<br />
Jakob: We spend this in <strong>the</strong> "box". In <strong>the</strong> morning we sing<br />
vespers, <strong>the</strong>n <strong>the</strong> 16 best singers have performances, at old<br />
people's homes, for example. In <strong>the</strong> evening we celebrate<br />
<strong>to</strong>ge<strong>the</strong>r – and it's almost better than at home. The oldest<br />
boys stand <strong>the</strong>re with candles, Mr Biller, <strong>the</strong> Thomaskan<strong>to</strong>r,<br />
which is what we call <strong>the</strong> musical direc<strong>to</strong>r, makes<br />
a speech and plays something on <strong>the</strong> piano. Later on we<br />
hand out gifts – all around a big table heaped with presents.<br />
Max: On my first <strong>Christmas</strong> Eve at boarding school I<br />
missed my family <strong>to</strong> start with. But when we went through<br />
<strong>the</strong> Waldstraßenviertel (<strong>the</strong> Forest Street Quarter) in Leipzig,<br />
ringing at <strong>the</strong> doorbells and carol singing, it was so<br />
much fun that I forgot all about feeling homesick.<br />
All dates are<br />
available <strong>to</strong><br />
view at<br />
www.thomaner<br />
chor.de<br />
<strong>Welcome</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong> <strong>Wonderland</strong>
Saxony<br />
The lady who brings<br />
angels <strong>to</strong> life
Bettina Bergmann is following<br />
in big footsteps in her little<br />
carving studio.<br />
Pho<strong>to</strong>s: Sebastian Arlt<br />
During <strong>the</strong> war Emil Helbig sent<br />
his son boxes <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> front, with<br />
build-your-own <strong>Christmas</strong> scenes<br />
(<strong>to</strong>p picture). His granddaughter<br />
Bettina Bergmann (55) still uses<br />
her grandfa<strong>the</strong>r's designs for<br />
her work.<br />
A "Dippel" (mug) for<br />
<strong>the</strong> favourite drink in<br />
Saxony – coffee. The<br />
word comes from "Töpfchen"<br />
(little pot).<br />
If old Emil Helbig came in<strong>to</strong> her studio with <strong>the</strong> sign on<br />
<strong>the</strong> door saying "<strong>the</strong> oldest carving workshop in <strong>the</strong> Ore<br />
Mountains", he would cast his critical eye over everything.<br />
He would find fault with a thing or two – that is something<br />
Bettina Bergmann is sure about – and <strong>the</strong>n he would<br />
shake his head and ask: "So where is <strong>the</strong> boss?"<br />
Well, that's Bettina herself, actually. Just like her grandfa<strong>the</strong>r,<br />
Emil Helbig, she is a wood carver, and just like him<br />
she produces little figures and <strong>to</strong>ys in Grünhainichen, one<br />
of <strong>the</strong> centres of folk art in <strong>the</strong> Ore Mountains. In a little<br />
house, just opposite <strong>the</strong> oversized musical box of <strong>the</strong><br />
world-renowned company Wendt & Kühn<br />
Emil Helbig will, however, never set foot in his<br />
grand-daughter's workshop – he died in 1976. But his<br />
ghost is ever present: Helbig trained as a sculp<strong>to</strong>r and was<br />
a great craftsman. He trained at <strong>the</strong> local arts and crafts<br />
school and at <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>y maker's school in Seiffen, where<br />
<strong>the</strong>re is now an exhibition dedicated <strong>to</strong> him. Bettina Bergmann's<br />
grandfa<strong>the</strong>r was also a businessman and built up a<br />
company with 40 woodcarvers. And he could be quite surly<br />
if he got <strong>the</strong> feeling that his art wasn't being taken seriously<br />
– and he quite often felt like that.<br />
"I was always asking him about carving", she tells us,<br />
as she puts her „Dippel“ of coffee down, "but he always<br />
muttered: It's not for girls." Her right thumb is bound<br />
thick with plasters for protection when she is carving. She<br />
takes up a blank for an angel figure, only half <strong>the</strong> size of<br />
her little finger. The carving knife slices in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> lime wood<br />
– and facial features start <strong>to</strong> emerge. "There is this moment",<br />
she says, "when <strong>the</strong> figures start <strong>to</strong> come <strong>to</strong> life.<br />
That never ceases <strong>to</strong> amaze me."<br />
She carves using <strong>the</strong> designs made by her genius but<br />
difficult grandfa<strong>the</strong>r. Her "good and great Emil", explains<br />
Bergmann, developed his own unique designs: "He tried<br />
<strong>to</strong> reflect what is essential with only a few, simple cuts".<br />
Looking at Helbig's miniatures, <strong>to</strong>ys and nativity figures<br />
you can't help but think that he must have been a good<br />
observer who was not without a sharp sense of humour.<br />
But <strong>the</strong>y are never cute: His style of carving left edges and<br />
corners, "unlike <strong>the</strong> rounder figures that are made in <strong>the</strong><br />
Ore Mountains".<br />
Helbig's company was dispossessed in <strong>the</strong> 1970s. Walter<br />
Helbig, Emil's sun and Bettina's fa<strong>the</strong>r, however, continued<br />
<strong>to</strong> work in <strong>the</strong> company for many years after. After<br />
<strong>the</strong> reunification of Germany he wanted <strong>to</strong> make a fresh<br />
start at <strong>the</strong> age of 72. So he put his daughter – who had<br />
trained in <strong>the</strong> profession, but never really worked in it – <strong>to</strong><br />
task. With perseverance and a dose of good luck she managed<br />
<strong>to</strong> get back <strong>the</strong> 600 samples that Emil Helbig had<br />
once designed.<br />
Bergmann is now sitting in front of a glass plate covered<br />
in splats of paint. The angel that has just come <strong>to</strong> life<br />
is <strong>to</strong> have golden hair and red wings.<br />
When her fa<strong>the</strong>r died, Bettina Bergmann carried on with<br />
one o<strong>the</strong>r employee. "My grandfa<strong>the</strong>r never praised anyone",<br />
explains <strong>the</strong> woodcarver. But maybe he would just<br />
be a little bit proud of his granddaughter <strong>to</strong>day.<br />
11<br />
<strong>Welcome</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong> <strong>Wonderland</strong>
12<br />
Benjamin Unger is a little bleary eyed – he has hardly<br />
set foot out of <strong>the</strong> kitchen over <strong>the</strong> last 24 hours. Unger<br />
is head chef at <strong>the</strong> hotel "Blauer Engel" in Aue, whose<br />
restaurant "St. Andreas" is currently listed with 17<br />
points in "Gault & Milau". The 350 year anniversary<br />
of <strong>the</strong> hotel is looming in <strong>the</strong> next few days, and <strong>the</strong><br />
34 year old is expecting not only guests, but also <strong>to</strong>p<br />
chefs for <strong>the</strong> culinary competition at a "kitchen party".<br />
While <strong>the</strong> phone is frantically ringing in <strong>the</strong> foyer,<br />
Unger is sitting in <strong>the</strong> wine bar talking about <strong>the</strong> cuisine<br />
of <strong>the</strong> Ore Mountans, <strong>the</strong> value of tradition and<br />
modern interpretations of <strong>the</strong> classics.<br />
Mr Unger, what is <strong>the</strong> cuisine of <strong>the</strong> Ore Mountains<br />
like?<br />
This is a poor people's cuisine here. Have a look<br />
at <strong>the</strong> classics: for example, "Kar<strong>to</strong>ffelfratzen in<br />
Schwammebrie“ – literally ugly pota<strong>to</strong> faces in<br />
mushroom purée – which is basically a kind of<br />
pota<strong>to</strong> dumpling in mushroom sauce. What is<br />
missing?<br />
The meat.<br />
Exactly. The mountain folk here couldn't afford<br />
what would actually fill <strong>the</strong>m up.<br />
You trained with Ralf. J. Kutzner in <strong>the</strong> "Bülow-<br />
Palais" in Dresden and you <strong>the</strong>n <strong>to</strong>ok <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
road and worked in many renowned restaurants.<br />
Why did you come back <strong>to</strong> a region with a cuisine<br />
like this?<br />
Firstly because of my family: my fa<strong>the</strong>r <strong>to</strong>ok over<br />
<strong>the</strong> restaurant after <strong>the</strong> reunification after he had<br />
worked here as a chef since 1977. But also because<br />
I felt at home in this region – not everyone is destined<br />
<strong>to</strong> leave. I want <strong>to</strong> develop something here: I<br />
can't teach people, but I can show <strong>the</strong>m that you<br />
can sometimes sit down for a meal for three hours,<br />
<strong>to</strong> talk and eat.<br />
The chef has his roots in Aue, that is something you see<br />
straight away. And what does he think about <strong>the</strong> fact<br />
that <strong>the</strong> Erzgebirge Aue football club recently lost its<br />
match: "Unbelievable! The o<strong>the</strong>r side's goal was just<br />
pure fluke!" And how come he is able <strong>to</strong> hold engaging<br />
lectures on local his<strong>to</strong>ry, considering he is only in his<br />
mid-30s? "Well, you know, I did his<strong>to</strong>ry as a specialist<br />
subject at school". In <strong>the</strong> long his<strong>to</strong>ry of <strong>the</strong> hotel – Unger<br />
says it has seen fires, renovations and has frequently<br />
changed hands – having a landlord family handing it<br />
over <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> next generation is a first.<br />
His bro<strong>the</strong>r Claudius, ten years his junior, also runs<br />
<strong>the</strong> business alongside Benjamin Unger.<br />
What do you eat in <strong>the</strong> Ore Mountains at<br />
<strong>Christmas</strong>?<br />
The traditional dish is Neunerlei (literally nine different<br />
things) – we call it „Neinerlaa“. It is made<br />
differently in every household, but it is always a<br />
After training as a chef in<br />
Dresden and cooking his way<br />
across Germany's gastronomic<br />
temples, Benjamin<br />
Unger returned <strong>to</strong> his<br />
home<strong>to</strong>wn of Aue.<br />
Neinerlaa: A <strong>Christmas</strong> dish<br />
from <strong>the</strong> Ore Mountains.<br />
A penny is placed under <strong>the</strong><br />
plate <strong>to</strong> ensure that money<br />
doesn't run out <strong>the</strong> following<br />
year.<br />
Simple<br />
dishes<br />
filled with<br />
symbolism<br />
The mountain folk<br />
in <strong>the</strong> Ore Mountains<br />
liked <strong>the</strong>ir food <strong>to</strong> be<br />
hearty. But it doesn't<br />
have <strong>to</strong> be like that:<br />
Top chef Benjamin Unger<br />
presents a modern<br />
version of <strong>the</strong> traditional<br />
<strong>Christmas</strong> dish<br />
"Neunerlei".<br />
Saxony
<strong>Welcome</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong> <strong>Wonderland</strong>
14<br />
Benjamin Unger making<br />
"Sauerkraut air“ (<strong>to</strong>p), part<br />
of his interpretation of<br />
"Neunerlei“ (centre). The<br />
350-year old building of<br />
<strong>the</strong> "Blaue Engel" is<br />
always decorated for<br />
advent (bot<strong>to</strong>m).<br />
dish that is full of symbolism. There should be a<br />
bit of everything in it – with <strong>the</strong> meat it has <strong>to</strong> be<br />
something from <strong>the</strong> air, usually goose, something<br />
from <strong>the</strong> water, carp, for example, and something<br />
from <strong>the</strong> earth, like rabbit. Pota<strong>to</strong> dumplings symbolise<br />
large coins, that should bless <strong>the</strong> house, while<br />
lentils stand for smaller coins. Celery is <strong>the</strong> fertility<br />
symbol. Beetroot is added for red cheeks. And it<br />
has <strong>to</strong> have sauerkraut, so that <strong>the</strong> straw grows high<br />
in <strong>the</strong> fields.<br />
And you're really supposed <strong>to</strong> eat all this in<br />
one go?<br />
Yes – three times actually. Here in <strong>the</strong> Ore Mountains<br />
we have several <strong>Christmas</strong> evenings: <strong>Christmas</strong><br />
Eve, <strong>the</strong>n New Year's Eve and <strong>the</strong>n "Hohneujahr<br />
-Heiligabend", as we call <strong>the</strong> Saturday before<br />
Epiphany.<br />
Is <strong>the</strong> tradition of <strong>the</strong> "Neunerlei" still alive<br />
and well?<br />
Definitely. We put it on <strong>the</strong> menu starting on <strong>the</strong><br />
first advent Sunday and <strong>the</strong>n we serve it on traditional<br />
plates with nine separate sections. In our<br />
family we have it every year on <strong>Christmas</strong> Eve as<br />
well. Only goose, now that's something I really<br />
have had enough of after 11 November, when<br />
everyone eats goose for St. Martin's feast. I have<br />
just cooked it, smelled it and tasted it <strong>to</strong>o many<br />
times by <strong>the</strong>n.<br />
In <strong>the</strong> kitchen <strong>the</strong> staff are just drinking coffee as<br />
Benjamin Unger starts on his modern interpretation<br />
of <strong>the</strong> "Neunerlei". Within minutes six gas burners<br />
are burning in a row; and he quickly juggles pots and<br />
pans on <strong>the</strong>m.<br />
Unger stirs, seasons, fills foams in<strong>to</strong> little tuilles. He<br />
lays a big sliver of a red, transparent material on<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
work surface. "Beetroot, rammed through a few compounds",<br />
he explains.<br />
Mr Unger, what is your contemporary<br />
"Neunerlei" composition going <strong>to</strong> be?<br />
This is a goose breast, laid on<strong>to</strong> some red cabbage<br />
– I like this best done <strong>the</strong> classic way. Then beluga<br />
lentils, done with balsamic vinegar – <strong>the</strong>y are a little<br />
finer than <strong>the</strong> normal lentils from <strong>the</strong> Ore Mountains.<br />
They are <strong>to</strong>pped with a pota<strong>to</strong> thaler made of<br />
buttermilk pastry – buttermilk stands for pure skin<br />
and is also important in <strong>the</strong> "Neunerlei". Then I<br />
have placed a green dumpling on <strong>to</strong>p of that.<br />
And what's that on <strong>to</strong>p of <strong>the</strong> dumpling?<br />
Sauerkraut air, a type of foam. The white dots,<br />
that's a celery mousse, and <strong>the</strong> red dots are made of<br />
beetroot. I also made <strong>the</strong> wafer out of beetroot, that<br />
looks like a sail.<br />
So it's just <strong>the</strong> fish that's missing.<br />
Can you see <strong>the</strong> ring <strong>the</strong>re on <strong>the</strong> right? That's an<br />
anchovy.<br />
LEGAL NOTICE<br />
Saxony – welcome <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
<strong>Christmas</strong> <strong>Wonderland</strong><br />
as a supplement in <strong>the</strong><br />
"Frankfurter Allgemeine<br />
Zeitung“, <strong>the</strong> "Frankfurter<br />
Allgemeine Sonntagszeitung",<br />
<strong>the</strong> "Süddeutsche<br />
Zeitung“ and <strong>the</strong> "WELT“<br />
and "WELT kompakt".<br />
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Saxony
Sterneln : Making stars <strong>to</strong>ge<strong>the</strong>r<br />
on <strong>the</strong> first of advent in Herrnhut<br />
Herrnhut lights up: The famous stars are<br />
hand-crafted. Yvonne Lehmann has <strong>the</strong><br />
skill <strong>to</strong> make a miniature version of just<br />
13 centimetres.<br />
Let <strong>the</strong> stars shine<br />
What must be <strong>the</strong> most beautiful <strong>Christmas</strong> accessory<br />
is created in a workshop in Upper Lusatia.<br />
15<br />
Pho<strong>to</strong>s: Sebastian Arlt; Hotel Blauer Engel<br />
Yvonne Lehmann must have a natural<br />
talent – <strong>the</strong>re is no o<strong>the</strong>r way <strong>to</strong> explain<br />
it.<br />
When <strong>the</strong> 41 year old moved <strong>to</strong> Herrnhut<br />
she had never even heard of <strong>the</strong><br />
famous stars. "Where I came from<br />
in North Saxony we hadn't heard of<br />
<strong>the</strong>m", says Lehmann as she folds a<br />
piece of paper over <strong>the</strong> blade of a kitchen<br />
knife. Six years after she arrived <strong>the</strong>re<br />
she is considered <strong>to</strong> be one of <strong>the</strong> most<br />
talented craftswomen in <strong>the</strong><br />
Herrnhut workshop. She can do what<br />
only two o<strong>the</strong>r of her colleagues can<br />
do: make miniature versions of <strong>the</strong> famous<br />
stars only 13 centimetres across.<br />
This takes a steady hand and a great deal<br />
of skill.<br />
Lehmann folds <strong>the</strong> tiny piece of paper<br />
along <strong>the</strong> prepared fold, dips a brush<br />
in<strong>to</strong> glue and glues <strong>the</strong> whole thing.<br />
Now one of <strong>the</strong> 25 points that make up<br />
<strong>the</strong> Moravian star is ready. It takes an<br />
hour and a half – you just can't make an<br />
original star any faster than that.<br />
The tradition of <strong>the</strong> Moravian stars<br />
has its roots in 1821 – and ironically<br />
it stems from a generally sober subject<br />
– maths lessons. There was a teacher<br />
at <strong>the</strong> Herrnhut boarding school who<br />
wanted <strong>to</strong> teach his pupils an exercise in<br />
geometry and got <strong>the</strong>m <strong>to</strong> make a star<br />
for advent, which was <strong>to</strong> be designed <strong>to</strong><br />
be like <strong>the</strong> Bethlehem star. The pupils<br />
made <strong>the</strong> first Moravian star and put<br />
a light in<strong>to</strong> its paper body. And while<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir parents, Evangelical brethren missionaries<br />
were spreading <strong>the</strong> light of belief<br />
across <strong>the</strong> globe, <strong>the</strong> boarding school<br />
pupils sat down <strong>to</strong>ge<strong>the</strong>r <strong>to</strong> make stars,<br />
or <strong>to</strong> „Sterneln“, as <strong>the</strong>y called it, <strong>to</strong><br />
get in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong> spirit.<br />
The tradition survived and spread<br />
successfully because <strong>the</strong> stars shine with<br />
<strong>Christmas</strong> warmth with <strong>the</strong>ir pure, simple<br />
design transcending fashion and featuring<br />
as a stylish accessory, even in <strong>the</strong><br />
livings rooms in <strong>the</strong> cities. Now <strong>the</strong> stars<br />
are made all year round, with a production<br />
of up <strong>to</strong> 400,000 in a range of sizes<br />
and colours. The classic is red and white,<br />
<strong>the</strong> symbols for purity and <strong>the</strong> blood of<br />
Christ. When East and West Germany<br />
were still spilt, models with yellow<br />
points were very popular in <strong>the</strong> East,<br />
maybe because nobody wanted <strong>to</strong> see<br />
red stars in <strong>the</strong>ir living room as well.<br />
Yvonne Lehmann has glued eight<br />
points <strong>to</strong> form a ring, <strong>the</strong>n added ano<strong>the</strong>r<br />
made of four parts, and <strong>the</strong>n <strong>the</strong><br />
last point is added on <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>p. In <strong>the</strong><br />
gaps that form she has <strong>to</strong> put little paper<br />
balls. Then she picks up <strong>the</strong> delicate<br />
construction with tweezers. "If I am only<br />
a millimetre out, I can chuck it in <strong>the</strong><br />
bin", she says. Then she has <strong>to</strong> concentrate<br />
so that she gets it right. And she's<br />
hit <strong>the</strong> target. Well, she is blessed with<br />
natural talent, after all.<br />
<strong>Welcome</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong> <strong>Wonderland</strong>
No, <strong>the</strong> boy in <strong>the</strong> picture is not<br />
Erich Kästner. But he must have<br />
looked a bit like that when <strong>the</strong><br />
writer, born in 1899 in Dresden,<br />
inspected <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong> tree full<br />
of hope and expectation. In <strong>the</strong><br />
book “When I was a little boy”, he<br />
reminisces about his childhood at<br />
Königsbrücker Straße 66 with a<br />
finely tuned sense of irony – and<br />
how <strong>to</strong>o much love sent him on<br />
an emotional rollercoaster one<br />
<strong>Christmas</strong> Eve.<br />
16<br />
Sachsen
Textauszug gekürzt aus: „Als ich ein kleiner Junge war“ von Erich Kästner (c) Atrium Verlag, Zürich 1957; Fo<strong>to</strong>: TV-Yesterday<br />
Nur einmal in jedem Jahr hätte ich sehnlich gewünscht,<br />
Geschwister zu besitzen: am Heiligabend! Am ersten Feiertag<br />
hätten sie ja gut und gerne wieder fortfliegen können,<br />
meinetwegen erst nach dem Gänsebraten mit den rohen<br />
Klößen, dem Rotkraut und dem Selleriesalat. Ich hätte sogar<br />
auf meine eigene Portion verzichtet und stattdessen Gänseklein<br />
gegessen, wenn ich nur am 24. Dezember abends nicht allein<br />
gewesen wäre! Die Hälfte der Geschenke hätten sie haben können<br />
und es waren wahrhaftig herrliche Geschenke!<br />
Und warum wollte ich gerade an diesem Abend, am<br />
schönsten Abend eines Kinderjahres, nicht allein und nicht<br />
das einzige Kind sein? Ich hatte Angst. Ich fürchtete mich vor<br />
der Bescherung! Ich hatte Furcht davor und durfte sie nicht<br />
zeigen. Es ist kein Wunder, dass ihr<br />
das nicht gleich versteht. Ich habe<br />
mir lange überlegt, ob ich darüber<br />
sprechen solle oder nicht. Ich will<br />
darüber sprechen!<br />
Also muss ich es euch erklären.<br />
Meine Eltern waren, aus Liebe zu<br />
mir, aufeinander eifersüchtig. (…)<br />
Wochenlang, halbe nächte hindurch,<br />
hatte mein Vater im Keller<br />
gesessen und zum Beispiel einen wundervollen Pferdestall<br />
gebaut. Er hatte geschnitzt und genagelt, geleimt und gemalt,<br />
Schriften gepinselt, winziges Zaumzeug zugeschnitten<br />
und genäht, die Pferdemähnen mit Bändern durchflochten,<br />
die Raufen mit Heu gefüllt, und immer noch<br />
war ihm, beim Blaken der Petroleumlampe, etwas eingefallen,<br />
noch ein Scharnier, noch ein Beschlag, noch ein<br />
Haken, noch ein Stallbesen, noch eine Haferkiste, bis er<br />
endlich zufrieden schmunzelte und wusste: »Das macht mir<br />
keiner nach!« (…)<br />
Es waren Geschenke, bei deren Anblick sogar Prinzen die<br />
Hände überm Kopf zusammengeschlagen hätten, aber Prinzen<br />
hätte mein Vater sie nicht geschenkt.<br />
Wochenlang, halbe Tage hindurch, hatte meine Mutter<br />
die Stadt durchstreift und die Geschäfte durchwühlt. Sie kaufte<br />
jedes Jahr Geschenke, bis sich deren Versteck, die Kommode,<br />
krumm bog. Sie kaufte Rollschuhe, Ankersteinbaukästen,<br />
Buntstifte, Farbtuben, Malbücher, Hanteln und Keulen für<br />
den Turnverein, einen Faustball für den Hof, Schlittschuhe,<br />
musikalische Wunderkreisel, Wanderstiefel, einen Norwegerschlitten,<br />
ein Kästchen mit Präzisionszirkeln auf blauem Samt,<br />
einen Kaufmannsladen, einen Zauberkasten, Kaleidoskope,<br />
Zinnsoldaten, eine kleine Druckerei mit Setzbuchstaben und,<br />
von Paul Schurig und den Empfehlungen des Sächsischen Lehrervereins<br />
angeleitet, viele, viele gute Kinderbücher. (…)<br />
Es war ein Konkurrenzkampf aus Liebe zu mir und es<br />
war ein verbissener Kampf. Es war ein Drama mit drei Personen<br />
und der letzte Akt fand, alljährlich, am Heiligabend statt.<br />
Die Hauptrolle spielte ein kleiner Junge. Von seinem Talent<br />
aus dem Stegreif hing es ab, ob das Stück eine Komödie oder<br />
ein Trauerspiel wurde. Noch heute klopft mir, wenn ich daran<br />
denke, das Herz bis in den Hals. (…)<br />
For<br />
legal reasons Eine<br />
<strong>the</strong> extract Dresdner is<br />
unfortunately Weihnachtsnot<br />
available geschichte von<br />
online Erich<br />
KÄstnEr<br />
Ich stand also am Küchenfenster und blickte in die Fenster gegenüber.<br />
Hier und dort zündete man schon die Kerzen an. Der<br />
Schnee auf der Straße glänzte im Laternenlicht. Weihnachtslieder<br />
erklangen. Im Ofen prasselte das Feuer, aber ich fror.<br />
Es duftete nach Rosinens<strong>to</strong>llen, Vanillezucker und Zitronat.<br />
Doch mir war elend zumute. (…)<br />
Und dann hörte ich meine Mutter rufen: »Jetzt kannst<br />
du kommen!« Ich ergriff die hübsch eingewickelten Geschenke<br />
für die beiden und trat in den Flur. Die Zimmertür stand<br />
offen. Der Christbaum strahlte. Vater und Mutter hatten sich<br />
links und rechts vom Tisch postiert, jeder neben seine Gaben,<br />
als sei das Zimmer samt dem Fest halbiert. »Oh«, sagte ich,<br />
»wie schön!«, und meinte beide Hälften. Ich hielt mich noch<br />
in der nähe der Tür, sodass mein<br />
Versuch, glücklich zu lächeln,<br />
Dreierkonferenz<br />
unterm<br />
Christbaum<br />
unmissverständlich beiden galt.<br />
Der Papa, mit der erloschnen Zigarre<br />
im Munde, beschmunzelte<br />
den firnisblanken Pferdestall.<br />
Die Mama blickte triumphierend<br />
auf das Gabengebirge zu<br />
ihrer Rechten. Wir lächelten<br />
zu dritt und überlächelten unsre<br />
dreifache Unruhe. Doch ich konnte<br />
nicht an der Tür stehen bleiben!<br />
Ach, wenn ich allein gewesen wäre,<br />
allein mit den Geschenken und<br />
dem himmlischen Gefühl, doppelt<br />
und aus zweifacher Liebe beschenkt<br />
zu werden! Wie selig wär ich gewesen<br />
und was für ein glückliches Kind! Doch<br />
ich musste meine Rolle spielen, damit<br />
das Weihnachtsstück gut ausgehe. Ich war<br />
ein Diplomat, erwachsener als meine Eltern, und hatte dafür<br />
Sorge zu tragen, dass unsre feierliche Dreierkonferenz unterm<br />
Christbaum ohne Missklang verlief. (…)<br />
Ich stand am Tisch und freute mich im Pendelverkehr. Ich<br />
freute mich rechts, zur Freude meiner Mutter. Ich freute mich<br />
an der linken Tischhälfte über den Pferdestall im Allgemeinen.<br />
Dann freute ich mich wieder rechts, diesmal über den Rodelschlitten,<br />
und dann wieder links, besonders über das Lederzeug.<br />
Und noch einmal rechts, und noch einmal links, und<br />
nirgends zu lange, und nirgends zu flüchtig. Ich freute mich<br />
ehrlich und musste meine Freude zerlegen und zerlügen. Ich<br />
gab beiden je einen Kuss auf die Backe. (…)<br />
Nebenan, bei Grüttners, sangen sie »O du fröhliche, o du<br />
selige, gnadenbringende Weihnachtszeit!« Mein Vater holte ein<br />
Portemonnaie aus der Tasche, das er im Keller zugeschnitten<br />
und genäht hatte, hielt es meiner Mutter hin und sagte: »Das<br />
hätt ich ja beinahe vergessen!« Sie zeigte auf ihre Tischhälfte,<br />
wo für ihn Socken, warme lange Unterhosen und ein Schlips<br />
lagen. Manchmal fiel ihnen, erst wenn wir bei Würstchen und<br />
Kar<strong>to</strong>ffelsalat saßen, ein, dass sie vergessen hatten, einander ihre<br />
Geschenke zu geben. Und meine Mutter meinte: »Das hat ja<br />
Zeit bis nach dem Essen.«<br />
17<br />
Willkommen im Weihnachtsland
"Glück auf, Glück auf, der Steiger kommt!"<br />
(Good luck, here comes <strong>the</strong> foreman!)<br />
18<br />
Soon noble metals are <strong>to</strong> be mined<br />
again in a few spots in <strong>the</strong> Ore<br />
Mountains, but in Freiberg <strong>the</strong><br />
heyday of mining has passed. So<br />
why does <strong>the</strong> miners' guild carry<br />
on?<br />
Dieter Joel: Because all <strong>the</strong> old<br />
friends and colleagues come <strong>to</strong>ge<strong>the</strong>r<br />
here. Lounging around on <strong>the</strong> sofa<br />
at home, that's really not my cup<br />
of tea.<br />
Maximilian Götze: I was born in<strong>to</strong><br />
this. My fa<strong>the</strong>r studied mining here,<br />
and is now involved in <strong>the</strong> association.<br />
And I also think it's important<br />
<strong>to</strong> keep traditions going, as <strong>the</strong>y will<br />
o<strong>the</strong>rwise be forgotten. It simply belongs<br />
<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
region.<br />
Mr. Joel, when did you start wearing<br />
this uniform?<br />
Joel: In 1991. I was an electrician<br />
in <strong>the</strong> mining industry; nowadays<br />
I look after <strong>the</strong> association's wardrobe.<br />
The club has 440 members,<br />
and almost 230 of <strong>the</strong>m are joining<br />
in in <strong>the</strong> parade. That's a whole<br />
lot of trousers, jackets and swords.<br />
If but<strong>to</strong>ns fall off <strong>the</strong> members will<br />
mercifully usually sew <strong>the</strong>m back on<br />
<strong>the</strong>mselves.<br />
Maximilian, how long have you<br />
been a member?<br />
Götze: My mo<strong>the</strong>r made me my first<br />
miner's uniform when I was three.<br />
Joel: I can remember you back <strong>the</strong>n:<br />
You sat on <strong>the</strong> pavement in your<br />
uniform and bashed away at <strong>the</strong> kerb<br />
with a hammer. You probably wanted<br />
<strong>to</strong> burrow in a mine shaft.<br />
The traditions really come in<strong>to</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong>ir own during <strong>the</strong> advent time.<br />
Joel: We are on <strong>the</strong> road every weekend.<br />
The highlight is our shift before<br />
<strong>Christmas</strong> Eve. This used <strong>to</strong> be<br />
<strong>the</strong> last shift before <strong>Christmas</strong>. Nobody<br />
worked all that much, but spirits<br />
were high. The foreman – who<br />
was in charge of <strong>the</strong> pit – ga<strong>the</strong>red<br />
Pho<strong>to</strong>s: Sebastian Arlt<br />
Saxony
There are six decades between <strong>the</strong>m: Dieter Joel (77) and<br />
Maximilian Götze (16), members of <strong>the</strong> his<strong>to</strong>rical "Freiberg<br />
Berg- und Hüttenknappschaft", <strong>the</strong> miners' guild, on <strong>the</strong><br />
traditional last mining shift on <strong>Christmas</strong> Eve and <strong>the</strong><br />
not-very-sophisticated mining vocabulary.<br />
With sword, pit hat and uniform: Dieter<br />
Joel (far left) and Maximilian Götze (3rd<br />
from <strong>the</strong> right) with comrades in <strong>the</strong><br />
Freiberg guild room.<br />
Dates for <strong>Christmas</strong> Eve shifts in <strong>the</strong><br />
Ore Mountains are available at<br />
www.bergbautradition-sachsen.de<br />
Tzscherper: little lea<strong>the</strong>r bags<br />
that <strong>the</strong> miners used <strong>to</strong> use for<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir "Tzscherper knife", which<br />
<strong>the</strong>y would use <strong>to</strong> check <strong>the</strong> condition<br />
of <strong>the</strong> wooden construction<br />
in <strong>the</strong> mine.<br />
his miners <strong>to</strong>ge<strong>the</strong>r. Everyone would<br />
bring something <strong>to</strong> eat from home.<br />
Götze: That's what it is that makes<br />
<strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong> Eve shift – food, food,<br />
food...<br />
Joel: But something happens before<br />
that: On <strong>the</strong> Saturday before <strong>the</strong> second<br />
Sunday in advent we get <strong>to</strong>ge<strong>the</strong>r<br />
at 5 in <strong>the</strong> afternoon and <strong>the</strong>n <strong>the</strong><br />
parade starts. We parade through <strong>the</strong><br />
<strong>to</strong>wn <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Nikolai Church, and we<br />
pay our respects <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Freibergers in<br />
<strong>the</strong> Albert Park and two bands play.<br />
Götze: Then we stand on <strong>the</strong> stairs<br />
outside, sing <strong>the</strong> foreman's song and<br />
<strong>the</strong> whole audience joins in. "Glück<br />
auf, Glück auf, der Steiger kommt!"<br />
When you have such a large crowd<br />
singing <strong>the</strong> song – it's exhilarating.<br />
And <strong>the</strong> food?<br />
Joel: That's afterwards, when we are<br />
among ourselves. This is when <strong>the</strong><br />
new colleagues join if <strong>the</strong>y can answer<br />
three questions: <strong>the</strong>ir name,<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir status and <strong>the</strong>ir life mot<strong>to</strong>.<br />
Then <strong>the</strong>y have <strong>to</strong> drink a beer with<br />
<strong>the</strong> examiner – <strong>to</strong> show that <strong>the</strong>y can<br />
handle jumping over <strong>the</strong> bum lea<strong>the</strong>r<br />
afterwards.<br />
Sorry, over what?<br />
Joel: Miners used <strong>to</strong> wear a kind of<br />
lea<strong>the</strong>r apron, but for <strong>the</strong> back. It<br />
was so that <strong>the</strong> seat of your trousers<br />
didn't get wet. Do you see? The term<br />
is a little direct, but <strong>the</strong>n miners<br />
aren't really all that genteel.<br />
So what do you keep in <strong>the</strong>se little<br />
bags at <strong>the</strong> front on your belt?<br />
Götze: The Tzscherper is part of <strong>the</strong><br />
uniform. Miners used <strong>to</strong> keep things<br />
in it <strong>to</strong> make light, like matches,<br />
hemp or flint. Some people put <strong>the</strong>ir<br />
mobile in it now, or <strong>the</strong>ir camera.<br />
My bag is empty at <strong>the</strong> moment.<br />
Joel: I've got a pestle and a knife in<br />
mine, just like <strong>the</strong> chief blaster used<br />
<strong>to</strong> have. And some medicine for<br />
headache. It's a pure coincidence<br />
that it looks like liqueur.<br />
19<br />
<strong>Welcome</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong> <strong>Wonderland</strong>
20<br />
Three s<strong>to</strong>ries<br />
about Cinderella<br />
40 years ago, <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong><br />
cult film "Three<br />
gifts for Cinderella"<br />
was shot at <strong>the</strong> Moritzburg<br />
Castle. And visi<strong>to</strong>rs<br />
are still swept away by<br />
<strong>the</strong> fairytale ambience<br />
in <strong>the</strong> castle.<br />
Erich Weber,<br />
now 69, likes <strong>the</strong><br />
music, alongside<br />
<strong>the</strong> window scene.<br />
"Well? Have you seen my window?", I<br />
ask everyone, when "Cinderella" came<br />
on <strong>the</strong> TV. You can see it for a few seconds<br />
in one of <strong>the</strong> scenes. Lit up, which<br />
earned me 50 marks – which was a lot<br />
of money back <strong>the</strong>n. I was working as a<br />
decora<strong>to</strong>r in <strong>the</strong> castle and had a flat at<br />
<strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>p in <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>wer. The film team put<br />
a floodlight in my room and covered<br />
<strong>the</strong> window with parchment so that <strong>the</strong><br />
old castle didn't look as if nobody lived<br />
<strong>the</strong>re. And <strong>the</strong>y paid rent <strong>to</strong> do that.<br />
We sometimes sat in <strong>the</strong> café with Rolf<br />
Hoppe, who played <strong>the</strong> king, and <strong>the</strong><br />
prince and <strong>the</strong> princess in <strong>the</strong> shooting<br />
breaks. Everyone was swooning about<br />
<strong>the</strong> pretty princess afterwards – but unfortunately<br />
she never visited again."<br />
Marion Becker,<br />
now 65, likes<br />
"everything"<br />
best about<br />
"Cinderella".<br />
"At <strong>the</strong> start of <strong>the</strong> seventies I often played<br />
a double if <strong>the</strong>y needed riders during <strong>the</strong><br />
filming. "Cinderella" wasn't anything special<br />
really. I was waiting with Kalif, an old<br />
circus horse at <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>p of <strong>the</strong> steps. I was<br />
waiting for <strong>the</strong> signal <strong>to</strong> go down <strong>the</strong> steps<br />
for <strong>the</strong> escape scene and <strong>the</strong>n ride through<br />
<strong>the</strong> gate. The stairs were covered in ice, Kalif<br />
didn't want <strong>to</strong> gallop, and you can see in<br />
<strong>the</strong> film that I really had <strong>to</strong> drive him on. I<br />
was 25 back <strong>the</strong>n and had a normal figure,<br />
but <strong>the</strong> actress was very slight. So we had <strong>to</strong><br />
leave Cinderella's costume open at <strong>the</strong> back<br />
– but nobody noticed because I was wearing<br />
a cape over it. My husband always used <strong>to</strong><br />
watch <strong>the</strong> film at least five times at <strong>Christmas</strong><br />
until I <strong>to</strong>ld him: "Do you know what? I<br />
can't stand <strong>to</strong> watch it any more!"<br />
Pho<strong>to</strong>s: Sebastian Arlt; Moritzburg Castle and Fasanenschlösschen (Pheasant<br />
Castle) /Gabriele Hilsky; DEFA-Stiftung, Jaromir Komarek<br />
Saxony
Idyllic comfort, love and <strong>Christmas</strong>:<br />
The beautiful Cinderella finds her<br />
prince charming (below), with <strong>the</strong><br />
help of three hazelnuts (centre bot<strong>to</strong>m).<br />
Rolf Hoppe and Karin Lesch<br />
played <strong>the</strong> old royal couple (bot<strong>to</strong>m)<br />
in an unforgettably funny performance.<br />
A special exhibition at <strong>the</strong><br />
Moritzburg castle is running until 2<br />
March <strong>to</strong> celebrate <strong>the</strong> filming and<br />
<strong>the</strong> myth of Cinderella.<br />
For more information, see<br />
www.schloss-moritzburg.de<br />
21<br />
Margitta Hensel,<br />
48, is <strong>the</strong> cura<strong>to</strong>r<br />
for <strong>the</strong> Cinderella<br />
exhibition. Her<br />
favourite parts are<br />
where <strong>the</strong> king and<br />
queen fight like an<br />
old couple.<br />
"I don't know how many proposals of marriage have been<br />
made on those steps. There was once even a sandal at <strong>the</strong><br />
bot<strong>to</strong>m of <strong>the</strong> steps with a telephone number and <strong>the</strong> note:<br />
"Prince charming wanted". We are making <strong>the</strong> fans' affinity<br />
with <strong>the</strong> film <strong>the</strong> subject of this year's exhibition. The<br />
film is not only well made, it seems <strong>to</strong> get under your skin<br />
and <strong>to</strong> awaken longing. Love, childlike naivety, humour, a<br />
world intact – <strong>the</strong>se are things that people clearly feel are<br />
missing nowadays. Interestingly <strong>the</strong> film makers hardly use<br />
any special effects, which is why <strong>the</strong> film comes across as<br />
realistic, but has a fairytale feel about it. The 40 original<br />
costumes on show are <strong>the</strong> highlight for many of <strong>the</strong> visi<strong>to</strong>rs.<br />
For decades <strong>the</strong>re was hardly any interest in <strong>the</strong> film<br />
props – <strong>the</strong>n <strong>the</strong> fans started researching what had happened<br />
<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> costumes. Ta dah! Many of <strong>the</strong>m were still<br />
hanging up in <strong>the</strong> studios in <strong>the</strong> Czech Republic. Some of<br />
<strong>the</strong>m have even taken on <strong>the</strong> status of national cultural assets<br />
over <strong>the</strong>re."<br />
<strong>Welcome</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong> <strong>Wonderland</strong>
22<br />
Discovering what it<br />
means <strong>to</strong> be slow: anyone<br />
walking in<strong>to</strong> Ekkard<br />
Seidl's workshop in Markneukirchen<br />
inevitably<br />
falls in pace with <strong>the</strong><br />
rhythm of <strong>the</strong> place. It is<br />
only with this peace and<br />
quiet that <strong>the</strong> 50-year old<br />
violin maker can create<br />
his bespoke instruments.<br />
The singing<br />
soul of wood<br />
EKKARD SEIDL<br />
FROM THE VOGT-<br />
LAND MUSIC<br />
CORNER EXPLAINS<br />
WHY THERE IS ONE<br />
THING YOU REALLY<br />
NEED IF YOU<br />
ARE BUILDING<br />
A VIOLIN:<br />
EMPATHY.<br />
The most exciting thing in my work is <strong>to</strong><br />
hear one of my violins in a concert. It is only<br />
<strong>the</strong>n that its character unfolds, or you<br />
could say where it bares its soul. Because<br />
every instrument has a soul – and every violin<br />
<strong>to</strong>o, of course. And its soul comes from<br />
various sources: First of all, it is in <strong>the</strong> wood<br />
it is made from. Then <strong>the</strong> violin builder<br />
puts part of his own soul in<strong>to</strong> it. And <strong>the</strong>n<br />
<strong>the</strong> musicians do <strong>the</strong> same – and of course,<br />
<strong>the</strong> composers, whose works are played on<br />
<strong>the</strong> instruments. I usually have <strong>to</strong> travel <strong>to</strong><br />
hear my violins: My cus<strong>to</strong>mers come from<br />
far afield and many play in symphony orchestras.<br />
I have very few cus<strong>to</strong>mers from this region.<br />
Despite <strong>the</strong> fact that we have a great musical<br />
tradition in <strong>the</strong> Vogtland... and not only<br />
at <strong>Christmas</strong>. We also have a long his<strong>to</strong>ry<br />
of producing instruments: Anyone in <strong>the</strong><br />
Vogtland who wants <strong>to</strong> play music usually<br />
has someone in <strong>the</strong> family who can build<br />
him a violin, trumpet or flute. If a coach<br />
full of musicians s<strong>to</strong>pped here, every musician<br />
on board would be able <strong>to</strong> find a master<br />
craftsman here <strong>to</strong> build him an instrument.<br />
Markneukirchen is unique in this<br />
respect.<br />
As well as contact with good colleagues,<br />
this area gives me <strong>the</strong> peace and quiet that I<br />
need for <strong>the</strong> 200 working hours it takes <strong>to</strong><br />
make a violin. I could never work in a <strong>to</strong>wn.<br />
I see myself as an artisan: 95% of my work<br />
is precision handicraft, and <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r 5%<br />
is difficult <strong>to</strong> describe in words. You know,<br />
when I build a violin, <strong>the</strong>re are a lot of decisions<br />
I have <strong>to</strong> make: Which piece of wood<br />
should I choose? What shape should it be,<br />
what should <strong>the</strong> proportions be? The combination<br />
determines what sort of instrument<br />
I will have made in <strong>the</strong> end.<br />
My violins are almost all special orders<br />
for musicians. Before I start, I ideally need<br />
<strong>to</strong> make an accurate picture of how <strong>the</strong>y<br />
play. Most cus<strong>to</strong>mers come <strong>to</strong> me in <strong>the</strong><br />
Vogtland <strong>to</strong> my little workshop for this. To<br />
offer <strong>the</strong>m <strong>the</strong> best possible service, I need a<br />
good ear, all my experience from 34 years of<br />
work – and a lot of empathy. But at <strong>the</strong> end<br />
of <strong>the</strong> day my violins are just objects: art is<br />
a separate entity in its own right; violins are<br />
used, <strong>the</strong>y are played on. I am a <strong>to</strong>y maker,<br />
as it were.<br />
Pho<strong>to</strong>s: Sebastian Arlt<br />
Saxony
<strong>Welcome</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong> <strong>Wonderland</strong>
Dresden<br />
lights up<br />
S<strong>to</strong>pping and staring in wonder – always<br />
a good idea when you see <strong>the</strong><br />
rebuilt Dresden Frauenkirche. For<br />
<strong>the</strong> last few years <strong>the</strong>re is ano<strong>the</strong>r<br />
reason <strong>to</strong> s<strong>to</strong>p piously in front of <strong>the</strong><br />
church, even in winter, and <strong>to</strong> drink<br />
a mulled wine. The "Advent on <strong>the</strong><br />
Neumarkt" recreates <strong>the</strong> time between<br />
1830 and 1920.<br />
There is no stress and no hustle and<br />
bustle at <strong>the</strong> his<strong>to</strong>ric <strong>Christmas</strong> market.<br />
Instead it is a haven of high<br />
quality craftsmanship, delicacies and<br />
a nativity scene with real animals.<br />
Saxony
A little window every day<br />
House visit on <strong>the</strong> culture scene:<br />
Dresden's Neustadt celebrates advent<br />
in its own unique way.<br />
25<br />
Pho<strong>to</strong>s: Sebastian Arlt; Ulla Wacker; E+ / Getty Images<br />
Oksana Rucker<br />
(38; left) and<br />
Ulla Wacker (41)<br />
feel that <strong>the</strong> Neustadt<br />
has <strong>to</strong> stay raw<br />
and creative. With<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir "Advenster",<br />
<strong>the</strong>y transform <strong>the</strong><br />
Dresden culture hotspot<br />
in<strong>to</strong> a walk-in<br />
advent calender in<br />
December<br />
When little chocolate Fa<strong>the</strong>r <strong>Christmas</strong> figures<br />
start making an appearance in <strong>the</strong> supermarkets<br />
in late summer, Ulla Wacker<br />
and Oksana Rucker know that <strong>the</strong> time has<br />
come <strong>to</strong> start preparing <strong>the</strong> windows. The<br />
Dresden ladies<br />
are members of <strong>the</strong> "Advenster", a group<br />
that was founded ten years ago, and which<br />
decorates a different window in <strong>the</strong> Dresden<br />
Neustadt with art every day in December.<br />
It started with set decora<strong>to</strong>rs building<br />
<strong>the</strong> building site in front of <strong>the</strong>ir houses in<br />
miniature on <strong>the</strong> window sill, with a mini<br />
digger which would drive when you pressed<br />
on a but<strong>to</strong>n. Later on it was not only windows,<br />
but doors that opened. And what<br />
started as a slightly different art exhibition<br />
became a happening with concerts, film<br />
showings and performance art. Nobody<br />
knew what would happen behind <strong>the</strong> doors<br />
and windows at 6 in <strong>the</strong> evening. But one<br />
thing was sure: it won't have anything <strong>to</strong> do<br />
with sweet, <strong>to</strong>uchy-feely sentimentalism.<br />
The Neustadt, Dresden's culture hotspot:<br />
In <strong>the</strong> 90s and <strong>the</strong> early noughties "grandmo<strong>the</strong>rs,<br />
students, ex-convicts and artists"<br />
lived here, explain Wacker and Rucker.<br />
When <strong>the</strong>y talk about how it was back <strong>the</strong>n,<br />
<strong>the</strong>y start <strong>to</strong> rave about it. But <strong>the</strong> minute<br />
you mention <strong>the</strong> word "gentrification" <strong>the</strong>y<br />
start <strong>to</strong> rant – and that in itself would be a<br />
good Advenster performance. High earners<br />
and inves<strong>to</strong>rs have also discovered <strong>the</strong> Neustadt.<br />
The founding "Advenster" dispersed at<br />
some point, and <strong>the</strong> second generation <strong>to</strong>ok<br />
over. Wacker coordinates various neighbouring<br />
initiatives in <strong>the</strong> district hall, and<br />
Rucker came up with <strong>the</strong> idea of <strong>the</strong> "Advenster"<br />
one day when she was picking up<br />
her daughter from nursery school. "There<br />
was something conspira<strong>to</strong>ry about it. And<br />
<strong>the</strong> gang got <strong>to</strong>ge<strong>the</strong>r, and <strong>the</strong>n something<br />
happened." Despite all <strong>the</strong> changes, <strong>the</strong>re is<br />
one thing <strong>the</strong> two are sure about: "The Neustadt<br />
will always be <strong>the</strong> Neu-stadt." How<br />
it is going <strong>to</strong> look in advent is still a secret.<br />
But <strong>the</strong> dates and addresses aren't. They are<br />
available at www.advenster.de<br />
<strong>Welcome</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong> <strong>Wonderland</strong>
26<br />
A girl, a man made of<br />
wood and a fairy tale:<br />
The dream world of<br />
<strong>the</strong> "Nutcracker" was<br />
transferred <strong>to</strong> Dresden<br />
<strong>to</strong> be performed<br />
by <strong>the</strong> Semperoper.<br />
31-year old Anna<br />
Merkulova is <strong>the</strong> star<br />
of <strong>the</strong> piece by<br />
Peter Tschaikowsky.<br />
Saxony
Pho<strong>to</strong>s: Sebastian Arlt; Costin Radu<br />
Magic in a<br />
snows<strong>to</strong>rm<br />
Ukrainian dancer<br />
Anna Merkulova<br />
dances Marie in <strong>the</strong><br />
"Nutcracker".<br />
The role is one she knows<br />
well. But <strong>Christmas</strong> in<br />
Saxony is something she<br />
had <strong>to</strong> get <strong>to</strong> know.<br />
Miss Merkulova, what is special about <strong>the</strong> Dresden production of<br />
<strong>the</strong> "Nutcracker"?<br />
"The Nutcracker" is everywhere, wherever you go in December. Even<br />
in Miami, where half <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>wn is sitting on <strong>the</strong> beach or around a<br />
BBQ in <strong>the</strong> 30 degree heat. Here in Dresden, it's different: <strong>the</strong> atmosphere<br />
outside <strong>the</strong> opera and on <strong>the</strong> stage complement each o<strong>the</strong>r perfectly,<br />
even down <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> production design. Our "Nutcracker" starts<br />
on <strong>the</strong> Striezelmarkt, and also moves <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Zwinger Palace – that's<br />
<strong>Christmas</strong> in its purest form!<br />
You come from <strong>the</strong> Ukraine. Was it difficult for you <strong>to</strong> get used <strong>to</strong><br />
<strong>Christmas</strong> in Dresden?<br />
When you are standing at a mulled wine stand after work with your<br />
colleagues, it's easy <strong>to</strong> get used <strong>to</strong> it. But you are right: in Saxony <strong>the</strong>y<br />
celebrate <strong>Christmas</strong> in a very unique way.<br />
How would you describe it?<br />
In <strong>the</strong> Ukraine we have presents at New Year, and <strong>the</strong>n <strong>Christmas</strong> is<br />
on <strong>the</strong> 6th and 7th January. The idea of decorating <strong>the</strong> whole <strong>to</strong>wn<br />
a month beforehand, doing up every shop window and putting up<br />
thousands of lights – that's not something we know, even if it has been<br />
starting <strong>to</strong> catch on over <strong>the</strong>re over <strong>the</strong> last few years. When my mo<strong>the</strong>r<br />
visits Dresden at <strong>Christmas</strong> time, she can't get enough of <strong>the</strong> atmosphere.<br />
I gave her a nutcracker as a present. And my fa<strong>the</strong>r really<br />
wants a pyramid now.<br />
You dance Marie, a young girl, who is drawn in<strong>to</strong> a dream world.<br />
Marie is open, she believes in miracles and dreams. You should never<br />
confuse dancers and ac<strong>to</strong>rs with <strong>the</strong> roles that <strong>the</strong>y play. But I must<br />
admit, I think Marie is a little like me.<br />
In what way?<br />
I also believe in <strong>the</strong> power of magic. And <strong>Christmas</strong> is <strong>the</strong> best example<br />
of that, isn't it? You may be religious and <strong>the</strong>n <strong>the</strong> biblical s<strong>to</strong>ry is<br />
<strong>the</strong> most important part of <strong>Christmas</strong> for you. But you also may see<br />
<strong>Christmas</strong> simply as a family celebration. Whatever <strong>Christmas</strong> means<br />
<strong>to</strong> you: if you give it a chance, you will be enchanted. You just have<br />
<strong>to</strong> let it work its magic – and I like being enchanted. But, once when<br />
I was playing <strong>the</strong> "Nutcracker" here in Dresden, it was almost <strong>to</strong>o<br />
much.<br />
What happened?<br />
We were dancing a scene in <strong>the</strong> snow s<strong>to</strong>rm – it's just like a fairy tale<br />
– I just love it! Last year – we must have already done abut 15 performances<br />
of <strong>the</strong> "Nutcracker", in <strong>the</strong> middle of <strong>the</strong> last performance<br />
of <strong>the</strong> season, I suddenly felt <strong>the</strong> tears running down my cheeks. It<br />
wasn't that easy <strong>to</strong> carry on dancing <strong>the</strong>n.<br />
A lot of families come <strong>to</strong> see <strong>the</strong> "Nutcracker". Do you dance differently<br />
for children?<br />
You have <strong>to</strong> act a bit more, but this piece does actually lend itself very<br />
well <strong>to</strong> that. And you mustn't let yourself be distracted if <strong>the</strong> audience<br />
is a bit more animated. But I have known it for a very, very long time:<br />
The first ballet role I ever played, was <strong>the</strong> one I am dancing now: Marie<br />
in <strong>the</strong> "Nutcracker". I was ten years old.<br />
27<br />
<strong>Welcome</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong> <strong>Wonderland</strong>
The secret<br />
of <strong>the</strong> strict<br />
princess<br />
Grandmo<strong>the</strong>r Zeidler<br />
traditionally bakes her<br />
own Christs<strong>to</strong>llen<br />
using a secret recipe<br />
with a dark his<strong>to</strong>ry.<br />
28<br />
Of course, it is a<br />
success. Christine<br />
Zeidler presents <strong>the</strong><br />
first Christs<strong>to</strong>llen she<br />
has ever made in her<br />
own kitchen – she<br />
has always gone <strong>to</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> local bakehouse<br />
before.<br />
It's a good job that Berta Höntzsch was guilty of a minor<br />
<strong>the</strong>ft back in 1902. And it is also a little bit understandable:<br />
Her ladyship, <strong>the</strong> Princess von Reuß from<br />
Castle Hermsdorf was strict and never let <strong>the</strong> staff get<br />
away with anything. Berta was only 18 and was employed<br />
as a maid when she decided <strong>to</strong> take her revenge<br />
one day and secretly crept in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> castle kitchens. She<br />
grabbed a scrap of paper and a pen and jotted down<br />
<strong>the</strong> secret recipe for <strong>the</strong> Christs<strong>to</strong>llen – preserving it for<br />
posterity.<br />
Nowadays Christine Zeidler is measuring <strong>the</strong> ingredients<br />
in her kitchen in Coswig near Dresden, and<br />
says: "A S<strong>to</strong>llen like <strong>the</strong> aris<strong>to</strong>cracy used <strong>to</strong> make –<br />
compared with this, <strong>the</strong> one from my mo<strong>the</strong>r tasted<br />
like stale breadrolls." Christine Zeidler, 77, married <strong>the</strong><br />
grandson of <strong>the</strong> thieving Berta. And she has been baking<br />
<strong>the</strong> S<strong>to</strong>llen with <strong>the</strong> aris<strong>to</strong>cratic recipe since 1954.<br />
Her husband's grandmo<strong>the</strong>r gave it <strong>to</strong> her <strong>the</strong> year she<br />
got married.<br />
Buying a Christs<strong>to</strong>llen at <strong>the</strong> baker – for Christine<br />
Zeidler this is just as alien a concept as buying carvings<br />
"made in China". So over <strong>the</strong> last 60 years she packs all<br />
her ingredients <strong>to</strong>ge<strong>the</strong>r on <strong>the</strong> 2nd or 3rd November<br />
every year, and makes her way <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> baker at <strong>the</strong> bot<strong>to</strong>m<br />
of <strong>the</strong> street. The women (and some men) from<br />
<strong>the</strong> region meet <strong>the</strong>re and work on <strong>the</strong>ir doughs, everyone<br />
with <strong>the</strong>ir own ingredients and <strong>the</strong>ir own recipe.<br />
The kitchens at home were <strong>to</strong>o small; and anyway, only<br />
<strong>the</strong> baker has <strong>the</strong> ideal mixture of moisture and heat in<br />
<strong>the</strong> oven. "We don't gossip... we concentrate hard on<br />
our work", says Christine Zeidler. Baking S<strong>to</strong>llen is serious<br />
business in <strong>the</strong> Dresden region.<br />
And a large-scale project: "I always end up baking 16<br />
<strong>to</strong> 24 pounds for <strong>the</strong> whole family", says Zeidler as she<br />
kneads <strong>the</strong> dough for <strong>the</strong> S<strong>to</strong>llen in her own kitchen –<br />
a one off, especially <strong>to</strong> oblige her guest. She made up<br />
<strong>the</strong> yeasted dough at six in <strong>the</strong> morning and now she<br />
can add <strong>the</strong> raisins, orange and lemon peel, ground almonds<br />
and lots of butter. Then <strong>the</strong> dough has <strong>to</strong> rise<br />
for half an hour. To make sure that <strong>the</strong> baker doesn't<br />
mix up <strong>the</strong> doughs, everyone puts a little metal sign in<strong>to</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> dough with <strong>the</strong> family's name on it.<br />
The baker <strong>the</strong>n shapes <strong>the</strong> loaves; <strong>the</strong>ir shape is<br />
supposed <strong>to</strong> resemble baby Jesus . When <strong>the</strong>y are baked<br />
– "not <strong>to</strong>o dark, more golden brown, a good Striezel<br />
must be nice and moist" – Mrs Zeidler packs her yield<br />
of at least 18 S<strong>to</strong>llen in<strong>to</strong> two washing baskets and carries<br />
<strong>the</strong>m round <strong>to</strong> her son. He puts <strong>the</strong>m on <strong>the</strong> balcony<br />
for a couple of days <strong>to</strong> rest before <strong>the</strong>y are buttered<br />
and given a generous dusting of icing sugar.<br />
Grandmo<strong>the</strong>r Zeidler isn't that far yet in her kitchen<br />
in Coswig – she sends out a quick prayer. "Dear<br />
God. Let it taste good." While <strong>the</strong> S<strong>to</strong>llen is baking<br />
in <strong>the</strong> oven, she tells me about when she was young,<br />
growing up in bombed out Dresden. And she tells me<br />
that during <strong>the</strong> GDR East Germany times, you could<br />
never be quite sure if it really was candied orange peel<br />
in <strong>the</strong> packet, or if it was just "candied <strong>to</strong>ma<strong>to</strong>es", as<br />
some people used <strong>to</strong> joke.<br />
Of course, <strong>the</strong> S<strong>to</strong>llen is not only good, it is excellent,<br />
and <strong>the</strong>re is a wonderful aroma as Mrs Zeidler<br />
takes it out of <strong>the</strong> oven. Must be <strong>the</strong> royal recipe. And<br />
if divine intervention really was necessary, God has<br />
clearly long since forgiven <strong>the</strong> minor <strong>the</strong>ft committed<br />
by Berta Höntzsch.<br />
Pho<strong>to</strong>s: Sebastian Arlt<br />
Saxony
Christs<strong>to</strong>llen<br />
recipe from <strong>the</strong><br />
Princess of ReuSS<br />
(Quantities significantly reduced)<br />
Ingredients<br />
1.2 kg flour<br />
1 sachet yeast<br />
1 cup warm milk<br />
350 g butter<br />
100 g margarine<br />
150 g ghee (clarified butter)<br />
125 g sugar<br />
50 g bitter almonds (available in pharmacies,<br />
health food shops, and also in supermarkets<br />
at <strong>Christmas</strong> time; alternatively<br />
use a few drops of bitter almond extract)<br />
2 sachets of vanilla sugar, mixed with <strong>the</strong><br />
zest of 1 lemon<br />
300 g ground almonds<br />
150 g candied lemon peel and 150 g candied<br />
orange peel<br />
600 g raisins soaked in rum<br />
Icing<br />
125 g melted butter<br />
and lots and lots of icing sugar<br />
29<br />
Striezel: The Dresden<br />
word for Christs<strong>to</strong>llen,<br />
which also gave its name<br />
<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> famous Striezelmarkt<br />
Preparation<br />
Sift <strong>the</strong> flour in<strong>to</strong> a bowl and make a<br />
well in <strong>the</strong> centre. Break in <strong>the</strong> yeast<br />
and pour over <strong>the</strong> lukewarm milk.<br />
Slowly mix in <strong>the</strong> flour with a spoon,<br />
leave <strong>the</strong> dough <strong>to</strong> rest at room temperature<br />
for half an hour.<br />
Then add <strong>the</strong> butter, margarine and<br />
ghee and all o<strong>the</strong>r ingredients except<br />
<strong>the</strong> raisins and kneed <strong>the</strong> dough until<br />
it is springy and elastic. Mix in<br />
<strong>the</strong> raisins and leave <strong>the</strong> dough <strong>to</strong><br />
rest for ano<strong>the</strong>r hour.<br />
Preheat <strong>the</strong> oven <strong>to</strong> 180 degrees Celsius.<br />
Press out <strong>the</strong> dough <strong>to</strong> form an<br />
oblong shape, score down <strong>the</strong> middle<br />
and make little holes in it, with a<br />
knitting needle for example.<br />
Bake for 90 minutes. When a needle<br />
put in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> dough no longer sticks<br />
and <strong>the</strong> crust is golden brown, take<br />
it out of <strong>the</strong> oven.<br />
Leave <strong>to</strong> rest for a while. Prick holes<br />
all over with <strong>the</strong> needle and brush<br />
with <strong>the</strong> melted butter. Generously<br />
sprinkle over icing sugar – it can be a<br />
whole centimetre thick!<br />
<strong>Welcome</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong> <strong>Wonderland</strong>
If you ask <strong>the</strong> locals which is <strong>the</strong> best<br />
<strong>Christmas</strong> market in <strong>the</strong> free state,<br />
you should expect <strong>to</strong> hear a variety<br />
of different answers.<br />
This is because <strong>the</strong>re are almost more<br />
<strong>Christmas</strong> markets in Saxony than<br />
<strong>the</strong>re are needles on a <strong>Christmas</strong><br />
tree. To make <strong>the</strong> choice a little simpler<br />
<strong>the</strong>re are ten suggestions on this<br />
page for a trip <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> region between<br />
Vogtland and Upper Lusatia. Some<br />
are world famous (like <strong>the</strong> one in<br />
Seiffen, here in <strong>the</strong> picture), o<strong>the</strong>rs<br />
are a secret – but <strong>the</strong>y are all leisurely<br />
and cosy.<br />
dresden<br />
579th Striezelmarkt<br />
Bautzen<br />
Wenzelsmarkt<br />
The first <strong>Christmas</strong><br />
meat market was<br />
held here in 1384.<br />
O<strong>the</strong>r stalls were<br />
added over <strong>the</strong> centuries.<br />
Starting on<br />
29 November, <strong>the</strong><br />
"Budyske hodowne<br />
wiki", as it is called<br />
in Sorbian, will be<br />
held for <strong>the</strong> 629th<br />
time.<br />
chemnitz<br />
<strong>Christmas</strong> market<br />
A twelve metre<br />
high pyramid, and<br />
oversized musical<br />
box and a five<br />
metre high candle<br />
arch form <strong>the</strong> centre<br />
of <strong>the</strong> market<br />
in Chemnitz. And<br />
clustered around it<br />
are some 200 stalls,<br />
opening on 29th<br />
November.<br />
If <strong>the</strong>re were a separate<br />
<strong>Christmas</strong><br />
government in Saxony,<br />
this would<br />
be its parliament.<br />
The oldest German<br />
<strong>Christmas</strong> market<br />
is opened on 27th<br />
November, and on<br />
<strong>the</strong> 7th December<br />
<strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong> cake<br />
that gives it its name<br />
will be celebrated<br />
at <strong>the</strong> 20th S<strong>to</strong>llen<br />
festival.<br />
FREIBERG<br />
Christmarkt<br />
Mining traditions<br />
come <strong>to</strong> life starting<br />
on <strong>the</strong> first of advent<br />
on <strong>the</strong> Obermarkt.<br />
Children<br />
can find out about<br />
mining in a workshop,<br />
<strong>the</strong> "smelter"<br />
doesn't have liquid<br />
ore in his kettle any<br />
more – just mulled<br />
wine.<br />
Görlitz<br />
Silesian<br />
Christkindelmarkt<br />
The Christ Child<br />
floats in as <strong>the</strong> bells<br />
chime and choirs<br />
sing on <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>wn<br />
hall steps. From <strong>the</strong><br />
6 December <strong>the</strong>re<br />
is music from Silesia<br />
and Bohemia<br />
sounding out between<br />
<strong>the</strong> stalls.<br />
Königstein<br />
<strong>Christmas</strong> market<br />
at <strong>the</strong> fortress<br />
"Königstein – a<br />
winter fairytale", is<br />
<strong>the</strong> mot<strong>to</strong> on <strong>the</strong><br />
advent weekends on<br />
<strong>the</strong> fortress. The old<br />
ruins are <strong>the</strong> perfect<br />
backdrop for <strong>the</strong><br />
his<strong>to</strong>rical and romantic<br />
market.<br />
Pho<strong>to</strong>: Rainer Weisflog<br />
Saxony
Meissen<br />
Meißner<br />
<strong>Christmas</strong><br />
The High Gothic<br />
<strong>to</strong>wn hall transforms<br />
in<strong>to</strong> an advent<br />
calendar, and<br />
<strong>the</strong> Renaissance<br />
<strong>to</strong>wn houses around<br />
it form a perfect<br />
backdrop for <strong>the</strong><br />
<strong>Christmas</strong> market,<br />
which starts on 29<br />
November.<br />
Plauen<br />
<strong>Christmas</strong> market<br />
In Plauen not only<br />
a large number<br />
of stalls open<br />
on 26 November,<br />
but so <strong>to</strong>o does<br />
<strong>the</strong> "Christkindl<br />
Postamt", <strong>the</strong><br />
<strong>Christmas</strong> pos<strong>to</strong>ffice;<br />
open for <strong>the</strong><br />
business of collecting<br />
children's letters<br />
<strong>to</strong> Santa.<br />
RADEBEUL<br />
Family <strong>Christmas</strong><br />
market<br />
Altkötzschenbroda,<br />
Radebeul's most<br />
beautiful village<br />
centre, lights up on<br />
<strong>the</strong> first three advent<br />
weekends: decorated<br />
stalls, a pathway<br />
of light and a<br />
glowing nativity<br />
scene give <strong>the</strong> place<br />
atmosphere.<br />
SEIFFEN<br />
<strong>Christmas</strong> market<br />
The word "market"<br />
would be an understatement:<br />
The hub<br />
of folk art in <strong>the</strong><br />
Ore Mountains becomes<br />
a <strong>Christmas</strong><br />
village on 30th November.<br />
On 14 December<br />
<strong>the</strong> miners<br />
parade through <strong>the</strong><br />
streets.<br />
<strong>Welcome</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong> <strong>Wonderland</strong>
The home of<br />
ChrisTmas.<br />
Dresdner S<strong>to</strong>llen Maiden © ZZDD<br />
Go Tell iT on The mounTains! ChrisTmas in saxony is a feasT for The senses.<br />
From <strong>the</strong> Görlitz Christkindelmarkt <strong>Christmas</strong> market <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Torgau Fairy-tale <strong>Christmas</strong> market<br />
and <strong>the</strong> Dresden Striezel <strong>Christmas</strong> market, we enchant visi<strong>to</strong>rs from all over <strong>the</strong> world.<br />
With regional specialities, such as Pulsnitz gingerbread or <strong>the</strong> traditional German <strong>Christmas</strong><br />
cake, Christs<strong>to</strong>llen, from <strong>the</strong> hands of this year’s Dresden S<strong>to</strong>llen Maiden, Friederike Pohl.<br />
And with living traditions, such as <strong>the</strong> artisan carvings from <strong>the</strong> Ore Mountains. To find out<br />
what else is in s<strong>to</strong>re <strong>to</strong> get you in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong> spirit, visit www.simply-saxony.com