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Winter 2013 | The <strong>Christmas</strong> magazine for <strong>the</strong> free state of Saxony<br />

saxony<br />

<strong>Welcome</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong> <strong>Wonderland</strong><br />

Thomaner<br />

The advent time is exciting for <strong>the</strong><br />

choir boys, but also exhausting.<br />

A house visit at <strong>the</strong> boarding school.<br />

Erich Kästner<br />

As a child, <strong>the</strong> Dresden writer had <strong>to</strong><br />

be <strong>the</strong> ultimate diplomat<br />

at <strong>Christmas</strong>.<br />

Christs<strong>to</strong>llen<br />

Grandmo<strong>the</strong>r Zeidler bakes following<br />

<strong>the</strong> secret recipe from a princess, which<br />

was at some point s<strong>to</strong>len by a relative.


When <strong>the</strong> sun goes down,<br />

even <strong>the</strong> busy Leipzig folk<br />

wind down at <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong><br />

market. From <strong>the</strong> 26 November<br />

over 250 stalls invite you<br />

<strong>to</strong> stay a while, – and five days<br />

later, <strong>the</strong> first window of <strong>the</strong><br />

largest freestanding advent<br />

calender in <strong>the</strong> world opens<br />

– its frontage is 857 square<br />

metres.<br />

2<br />

Title: interTOPICS / W, J.Mehl; producer: Knuth Neuber Seiffener Candle arches Ore Mountains; Pho<strong>to</strong>s: Joerg Glaescher / laif; Sebastian Arlt<br />

Saxony


<strong>Welcome</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Winter <strong>Wonderland</strong><br />

Of course <strong>the</strong> Saxons didn't invent <strong>Christmas</strong>. Even <strong>the</strong>y would shy away from<br />

actually trying <strong>to</strong> steal <strong>the</strong> copyright from <strong>the</strong> almighty in heaven. But you<br />

could still almost believe that advent and <strong>the</strong> whole <strong>Christmas</strong> celebration were<br />

thought up in <strong>the</strong> heart of Saxony, between Upper Lusatia and <strong>the</strong> Vogtland.<br />

There is hardly ano<strong>the</strong>r spot in Germany that can boast such a wealth of <strong>Christmas</strong><br />

traditions as <strong>the</strong> free state of Saxony. This booklet will guide you through<br />

<strong>Christmas</strong> country, leading you <strong>to</strong> magical places where you can immerse yourself<br />

in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong> festivities. It will give you an insight in<strong>to</strong> how <strong>the</strong> Saxons<br />

keep <strong>the</strong>ir old traditions alive – and how <strong>the</strong>y have come up with new ones <strong>to</strong>o.<br />

The <strong>to</strong>ur starts at one of <strong>the</strong> most enchanting <strong>Christmas</strong> markets in Saxony and<br />

leads us <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Ore Mountains, where Bettina Bergmann still uses her grandfa<strong>the</strong>r's<br />

creations for inspiration for her own carvings. Then we carry on <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

kitchen where <strong>to</strong>p chef Benjamin Unger has reinvented <strong>the</strong> cuisine of <strong>the</strong> mountain<br />

region in Aue. A visit <strong>to</strong> Herrnhut is also on our schedule – this is where <strong>the</strong><br />

most beautiful <strong>Christmas</strong> stars in <strong>the</strong> country are hand crafted. In <strong>the</strong> Baroque<br />

castle Moritzburg visi<strong>to</strong>rs can travel back in time <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> recent past: <strong>the</strong> fairytale<br />

"Three gifts for Cinderella" was shot here in 1973. Nowadays this film is not only<br />

obliga<strong>to</strong>ry viewing at <strong>Christmas</strong> in Saxony but in many countries around <strong>the</strong><br />

world. With just as much cult status and still cosy: <strong>the</strong> advent time in <strong>the</strong> hip<br />

and trendy Neustadt district of Dresden, where "advent windows" are opened<br />

every day in <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong> countdown. We will also be speaking <strong>to</strong> a dancing<br />

"nut cracker" from <strong>the</strong> Ukraine before spilling a carefully guarded secret. But<br />

that's all <strong>the</strong> clues we are going <strong>to</strong> give you about this reading odyssey...<br />

3<br />

The edi<strong>to</strong>rial team<br />

<strong>Welcome</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong> <strong>Wonderland</strong>


1 Annaberg:<br />

Blaze of light<br />

The <strong>Christmas</strong> market<br />

at Annaberg-Buchholz is<br />

considered <strong>to</strong> be one of<br />

<strong>the</strong> most beautiful in<br />

Saxony. Page 6<br />

2 LeiPzig:<br />

Advent in a box<br />

The members of <strong>the</strong><br />

Thomaner Choir enjoy<br />

<strong>Christmas</strong> most at<br />

boarding school. Page 8<br />

4<br />

3 GrünhAinichen:<br />

The lady who brings<br />

angels <strong>to</strong> life<br />

Carver craftswoman<br />

Bettina Bergman uses<br />

old patterns for her<br />

creations. Page 10<br />

4 Aue: Simple dishes<br />

filled with symbolism<br />

Top chef Benjamin<br />

Unger reinterprets dishes<br />

from <strong>the</strong> Ore Mountain<br />

region. Page 12<br />

5 Herrnhut:<br />

Let <strong>the</strong> stars shine<br />

What must be <strong>the</strong> most<br />

beautiful <strong>Christmas</strong><br />

accessory is created<br />

in this little twinkle<br />

<strong>to</strong>wn. Page 15<br />

Illustration: Artur Bodenstein / Caroline Seidler<br />

6 Dresden:<br />

Claiming three places<br />

under <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong><br />

tree<br />

<strong>Christmas</strong> Eve brought<br />

calamity <strong>to</strong> Erich Kästner.<br />

Page 16<br />

7 Freiberg: "Glück<br />

auf, Glück auf, der<br />

Steiger kommt!"<br />

The miner's associations<br />

still uphold <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong><br />

traditions of <strong>the</strong><br />

miners. Page 18<br />

Saxony


8 Moritzburg:<br />

Three s<strong>to</strong>ries about<br />

Cinderella<br />

"The" <strong>Christmas</strong> cult film<br />

was shot at <strong>the</strong> Baroque<br />

castle – and its ghost still<br />

remains <strong>to</strong> this day.<br />

Page 20<br />

9 Markneukirchen:<br />

The singing<br />

soul of wood<br />

Ekkard Seidl builds his<br />

violins with character in<br />

<strong>the</strong> music corner. Page 22<br />

10 Dresden:<br />

A window for every day<br />

The culture hotspot Neustadt<br />

celebrates advent<br />

in its own unique way.<br />

Page 24<br />

5<br />

11 Dresden:<br />

Magic in a snows<strong>to</strong>rm<br />

The ballerina Anna<br />

Merkulova dances in<br />

<strong>the</strong> "Nutcracker" – and<br />

loves <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong> atmosphere<br />

in Dresden.<br />

Page 26<br />

Where <strong>Christmas</strong><br />

is at home<br />

Advent turns <strong>the</strong> free state<br />

in<strong>to</strong> a winter wonderland.<br />

Discover it for yourself!<br />

12 Coswig:<br />

The secret purloined<br />

from <strong>the</strong> strict princess<br />

Christine Zeidler follows<br />

a special recipe for her<br />

Dresden "Christs<strong>to</strong>llen"<br />

cake. Page 28<br />

Saxony's <strong>Christmas</strong><br />

markets<br />

The most peaceful places<br />

in <strong>the</strong> free state over<br />

advent:<br />

Ten tips Page 30<br />

<strong>Welcome</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong> <strong>Wonderland</strong>


6<br />

Pho<strong>to</strong>: Franz Marc Frei<br />

Saxony


Annaberg<br />

ablaze with<br />

lights<br />

Looking for handcrafted carvings from <strong>the</strong> Ore Mountains?<br />

Third stand on <strong>the</strong> right. Plauen lace? Just opposite. Genuine<br />

Pulsnitzer gingerbread? Just here. Here you are. A friendly chat<br />

and a glass of punch? At just about every o<strong>the</strong>r stand – you're<br />

welcome! Every region of Saxony has its own specialities, its<br />

own dishes which are <strong>the</strong>re for you <strong>to</strong> discover at <strong>the</strong> market<br />

stalls. What <strong>the</strong>y all have in common though, is <strong>the</strong> idea of<br />

making <strong>the</strong> advent time in<strong>to</strong> something really special, a time<br />

of reflection and spending time with one ano<strong>the</strong>r. This is seen<br />

for example at <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong> market in Annaberg-Buchholz in<br />

<strong>the</strong> Ore Mountains, where 1200 men in traditional costume<br />

and uniform and 300 musicians get <strong>to</strong>ge<strong>the</strong>r for a massive parade<br />

on <strong>the</strong> fourth Sunday of advent. Toge<strong>the</strong>r <strong>the</strong>y bring <strong>the</strong><br />

old mining traditions <strong>to</strong> life. And <strong>the</strong>y want everyone <strong>to</strong> enjoy<br />

<strong>the</strong>mselves – with a glass of mulled wine at <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong><br />

market, which is usually deep in snow. To find out which o<strong>the</strong>r<br />

markets are worth a visit, turn <strong>to</strong> page 30<br />

7<br />

<strong>Welcome</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong> <strong>Wonderland</strong>


The elite boys' choir, <strong>the</strong><br />

Leipzig Thomaner Choir<br />

was founded 801 years<br />

ago. Advent is <strong>the</strong> most<br />

exhausting time of year<br />

for Max Gläser (right) and<br />

Jakob Schöbel (right bot<strong>to</strong>m)<br />

– but also one of<br />

<strong>the</strong> best: The halls of <strong>the</strong><br />

boarding school building<br />

are filled with a very special<br />

<strong>Christmas</strong> spirit.<br />

8<br />

Advent<br />

in <strong>the</strong> box<br />

The Thomaner Choir boys<br />

Max Gläser (13; soprano) and<br />

Jakob Schöbel (15; al<strong>to</strong>) on…<br />

...advent:<br />

Max: Our most stressful time of year! We already sing<br />

three times a week in <strong>the</strong> Thomaskirche, and now we<br />

have extra rehearsals, trips and carol singing evenings.<br />

For example at <strong>the</strong> Schloss Bellevue, at Mr.Gauck. I<br />

have already had <strong>the</strong> honour of shaking his hand at <strong>the</strong><br />

800-year celebration of <strong>the</strong> choir.<br />

Jakob: But it is still <strong>the</strong> best time of <strong>the</strong> year somehow<br />

– <strong>the</strong>re is just something very special about <strong>the</strong> atmosphere.<br />

And that's because we have a lot of little traditions.<br />

The boarding school is beautifully decorated; we<br />

sing <strong>Christmas</strong> carols and we even spend <strong>Christmas</strong><br />

Eve here.<br />

... life at boarding school:<br />

Jakob: There are currently 103 boys. We call <strong>the</strong> boarding<br />

school <strong>the</strong> "box". We live in small "houses", <strong>the</strong><br />

"dorm rooms" , where <strong>the</strong>re is a mix of boys from all<br />

school classes.<br />

Max: And <strong>the</strong>y are decorated by <strong>the</strong> "sixth formers" for<br />

<strong>the</strong> first of advent. They put <strong>the</strong> decorations up at<br />

night, when everyone is asleep. In my first year here<br />

I heard this clattering and rattling, but I didn't know<br />

what was going on. When I woke up in <strong>the</strong> morning,<br />

<strong>the</strong> windows were covered in pictures. There were advent<br />

wreaths, branches of pine and a lot of <strong>Christmas</strong><br />

decorations. When you've never seen it before – it's just<br />

awesome!<br />

Pho<strong>to</strong>s: Sebastian Arlt; Picture-Alliance / ZB / Waltraud Grubitzsch<br />

Saxony


9<br />

… Bach's <strong>Christmas</strong> Ora<strong>to</strong>rio:<br />

Jakob: Most people associate this piece with <strong>the</strong><br />

Thomaner Choir – which makes sense, because Bach<br />

wrote it especially for our choir nearly 300 years ago.<br />

We just call it <strong>the</strong> "WO" – which is short for <strong>the</strong> German<br />

title, <strong>the</strong> Weihnachtsora<strong>to</strong>rium and is less of a<br />

mouth–full. It is not all that hard, because as a choir<br />

singer you get <strong>to</strong> rest quite a bit during <strong>the</strong> arias and<br />

recitatives. Pure concerts are more tiring.<br />

Max: We start rehearsing about two weeks before <strong>the</strong><br />

first performances; and <strong>the</strong>n later on we rehearse with<br />

<strong>the</strong> Gewandhaus Orchestra. I don't know if I would<br />

get <strong>the</strong> whole WO right if you were <strong>to</strong> wake me up one<br />

night in <strong>the</strong> summer. But as a Thomaner you always<br />

have <strong>the</strong> basics off pat.<br />

.... <strong>Christmas</strong> day:<br />

Jakob: We spend this in <strong>the</strong> "box". In <strong>the</strong> morning we sing<br />

vespers, <strong>the</strong>n <strong>the</strong> 16 best singers have performances, at old<br />

people's homes, for example. In <strong>the</strong> evening we celebrate<br />

<strong>to</strong>ge<strong>the</strong>r – and it's almost better than at home. The oldest<br />

boys stand <strong>the</strong>re with candles, Mr Biller, <strong>the</strong> Thomaskan<strong>to</strong>r,<br />

which is what we call <strong>the</strong> musical direc<strong>to</strong>r, makes<br />

a speech and plays something on <strong>the</strong> piano. Later on we<br />

hand out gifts – all around a big table heaped with presents.<br />

Max: On my first <strong>Christmas</strong> Eve at boarding school I<br />

missed my family <strong>to</strong> start with. But when we went through<br />

<strong>the</strong> Waldstraßenviertel (<strong>the</strong> Forest Street Quarter) in Leipzig,<br />

ringing at <strong>the</strong> doorbells and carol singing, it was so<br />

much fun that I forgot all about feeling homesick.<br />

All dates are<br />

available <strong>to</strong><br />

view at<br />

www.thomaner<br />

chor.de<br />

<strong>Welcome</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong> <strong>Wonderland</strong>


Saxony<br />

The lady who brings<br />

angels <strong>to</strong> life


Bettina Bergmann is following<br />

in big footsteps in her little<br />

carving studio.<br />

Pho<strong>to</strong>s: Sebastian Arlt<br />

During <strong>the</strong> war Emil Helbig sent<br />

his son boxes <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> front, with<br />

build-your-own <strong>Christmas</strong> scenes<br />

(<strong>to</strong>p picture). His granddaughter<br />

Bettina Bergmann (55) still uses<br />

her grandfa<strong>the</strong>r's designs for<br />

her work.<br />

A "Dippel" (mug) for<br />

<strong>the</strong> favourite drink in<br />

Saxony – coffee. The<br />

word comes from "Töpfchen"<br />

(little pot).<br />

If old Emil Helbig came in<strong>to</strong> her studio with <strong>the</strong> sign on<br />

<strong>the</strong> door saying "<strong>the</strong> oldest carving workshop in <strong>the</strong> Ore<br />

Mountains", he would cast his critical eye over everything.<br />

He would find fault with a thing or two – that is something<br />

Bettina Bergmann is sure about – and <strong>the</strong>n he would<br />

shake his head and ask: "So where is <strong>the</strong> boss?"<br />

Well, that's Bettina herself, actually. Just like her grandfa<strong>the</strong>r,<br />

Emil Helbig, she is a wood carver, and just like him<br />

she produces little figures and <strong>to</strong>ys in Grünhainichen, one<br />

of <strong>the</strong> centres of folk art in <strong>the</strong> Ore Mountains. In a little<br />

house, just opposite <strong>the</strong> oversized musical box of <strong>the</strong><br />

world-renowned company Wendt & Kühn<br />

Emil Helbig will, however, never set foot in his<br />

grand-daughter's workshop – he died in 1976. But his<br />

ghost is ever present: Helbig trained as a sculp<strong>to</strong>r and was<br />

a great craftsman. He trained at <strong>the</strong> local arts and crafts<br />

school and at <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>y maker's school in Seiffen, where<br />

<strong>the</strong>re is now an exhibition dedicated <strong>to</strong> him. Bettina Bergmann's<br />

grandfa<strong>the</strong>r was also a businessman and built up a<br />

company with 40 woodcarvers. And he could be quite surly<br />

if he got <strong>the</strong> feeling that his art wasn't being taken seriously<br />

– and he quite often felt like that.<br />

"I was always asking him about carving", she tells us,<br />

as she puts her „Dippel“ of coffee down, "but he always<br />

muttered: It's not for girls." Her right thumb is bound<br />

thick with plasters for protection when she is carving. She<br />

takes up a blank for an angel figure, only half <strong>the</strong> size of<br />

her little finger. The carving knife slices in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> lime wood<br />

– and facial features start <strong>to</strong> emerge. "There is this moment",<br />

she says, "when <strong>the</strong> figures start <strong>to</strong> come <strong>to</strong> life.<br />

That never ceases <strong>to</strong> amaze me."<br />

She carves using <strong>the</strong> designs made by her genius but<br />

difficult grandfa<strong>the</strong>r. Her "good and great Emil", explains<br />

Bergmann, developed his own unique designs: "He tried<br />

<strong>to</strong> reflect what is essential with only a few, simple cuts".<br />

Looking at Helbig's miniatures, <strong>to</strong>ys and nativity figures<br />

you can't help but think that he must have been a good<br />

observer who was not without a sharp sense of humour.<br />

But <strong>the</strong>y are never cute: His style of carving left edges and<br />

corners, "unlike <strong>the</strong> rounder figures that are made in <strong>the</strong><br />

Ore Mountains".<br />

Helbig's company was dispossessed in <strong>the</strong> 1970s. Walter<br />

Helbig, Emil's sun and Bettina's fa<strong>the</strong>r, however, continued<br />

<strong>to</strong> work in <strong>the</strong> company for many years after. After<br />

<strong>the</strong> reunification of Germany he wanted <strong>to</strong> make a fresh<br />

start at <strong>the</strong> age of 72. So he put his daughter – who had<br />

trained in <strong>the</strong> profession, but never really worked in it – <strong>to</strong><br />

task. With perseverance and a dose of good luck she managed<br />

<strong>to</strong> get back <strong>the</strong> 600 samples that Emil Helbig had<br />

once designed.<br />

Bergmann is now sitting in front of a glass plate covered<br />

in splats of paint. The angel that has just come <strong>to</strong> life<br />

is <strong>to</strong> have golden hair and red wings.<br />

When her fa<strong>the</strong>r died, Bettina Bergmann carried on with<br />

one o<strong>the</strong>r employee. "My grandfa<strong>the</strong>r never praised anyone",<br />

explains <strong>the</strong> woodcarver. But maybe he would just<br />

be a little bit proud of his granddaughter <strong>to</strong>day.<br />

11<br />

<strong>Welcome</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong> <strong>Wonderland</strong>


12<br />

Benjamin Unger is a little bleary eyed – he has hardly<br />

set foot out of <strong>the</strong> kitchen over <strong>the</strong> last 24 hours. Unger<br />

is head chef at <strong>the</strong> hotel "Blauer Engel" in Aue, whose<br />

restaurant "St. Andreas" is currently listed with 17<br />

points in "Gault & Milau". The 350 year anniversary<br />

of <strong>the</strong> hotel is looming in <strong>the</strong> next few days, and <strong>the</strong><br />

34 year old is expecting not only guests, but also <strong>to</strong>p<br />

chefs for <strong>the</strong> culinary competition at a "kitchen party".<br />

While <strong>the</strong> phone is frantically ringing in <strong>the</strong> foyer,<br />

Unger is sitting in <strong>the</strong> wine bar talking about <strong>the</strong> cuisine<br />

of <strong>the</strong> Ore Mountans, <strong>the</strong> value of tradition and<br />

modern interpretations of <strong>the</strong> classics.<br />

Mr Unger, what is <strong>the</strong> cuisine of <strong>the</strong> Ore Mountains<br />

like?<br />

This is a poor people's cuisine here. Have a look<br />

at <strong>the</strong> classics: for example, "Kar<strong>to</strong>ffelfratzen in<br />

Schwammebrie“ – literally ugly pota<strong>to</strong> faces in<br />

mushroom purée – which is basically a kind of<br />

pota<strong>to</strong> dumpling in mushroom sauce. What is<br />

missing?<br />

The meat.<br />

Exactly. The mountain folk here couldn't afford<br />

what would actually fill <strong>the</strong>m up.<br />

You trained with Ralf. J. Kutzner in <strong>the</strong> "Bülow-<br />

Palais" in Dresden and you <strong>the</strong>n <strong>to</strong>ok <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

road and worked in many renowned restaurants.<br />

Why did you come back <strong>to</strong> a region with a cuisine<br />

like this?<br />

Firstly because of my family: my fa<strong>the</strong>r <strong>to</strong>ok over<br />

<strong>the</strong> restaurant after <strong>the</strong> reunification after he had<br />

worked here as a chef since 1977. But also because<br />

I felt at home in this region – not everyone is destined<br />

<strong>to</strong> leave. I want <strong>to</strong> develop something here: I<br />

can't teach people, but I can show <strong>the</strong>m that you<br />

can sometimes sit down for a meal for three hours,<br />

<strong>to</strong> talk and eat.<br />

The chef has his roots in Aue, that is something you see<br />

straight away. And what does he think about <strong>the</strong> fact<br />

that <strong>the</strong> Erzgebirge Aue football club recently lost its<br />

match: "Unbelievable! The o<strong>the</strong>r side's goal was just<br />

pure fluke!" And how come he is able <strong>to</strong> hold engaging<br />

lectures on local his<strong>to</strong>ry, considering he is only in his<br />

mid-30s? "Well, you know, I did his<strong>to</strong>ry as a specialist<br />

subject at school". In <strong>the</strong> long his<strong>to</strong>ry of <strong>the</strong> hotel – Unger<br />

says it has seen fires, renovations and has frequently<br />

changed hands – having a landlord family handing it<br />

over <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> next generation is a first.<br />

His bro<strong>the</strong>r Claudius, ten years his junior, also runs<br />

<strong>the</strong> business alongside Benjamin Unger.<br />

What do you eat in <strong>the</strong> Ore Mountains at<br />

<strong>Christmas</strong>?<br />

The traditional dish is Neunerlei (literally nine different<br />

things) – we call it „Neinerlaa“. It is made<br />

differently in every household, but it is always a<br />

After training as a chef in<br />

Dresden and cooking his way<br />

across Germany's gastronomic<br />

temples, Benjamin<br />

Unger returned <strong>to</strong> his<br />

home<strong>to</strong>wn of Aue.<br />

Neinerlaa: A <strong>Christmas</strong> dish<br />

from <strong>the</strong> Ore Mountains.<br />

A penny is placed under <strong>the</strong><br />

plate <strong>to</strong> ensure that money<br />

doesn't run out <strong>the</strong> following<br />

year.<br />

Simple<br />

dishes<br />

filled with<br />

symbolism<br />

The mountain folk<br />

in <strong>the</strong> Ore Mountains<br />

liked <strong>the</strong>ir food <strong>to</strong> be<br />

hearty. But it doesn't<br />

have <strong>to</strong> be like that:<br />

Top chef Benjamin Unger<br />

presents a modern<br />

version of <strong>the</strong> traditional<br />

<strong>Christmas</strong> dish<br />

"Neunerlei".<br />

Saxony


<strong>Welcome</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong> <strong>Wonderland</strong>


14<br />

Benjamin Unger making<br />

"Sauerkraut air“ (<strong>to</strong>p), part<br />

of his interpretation of<br />

"Neunerlei“ (centre). The<br />

350-year old building of<br />

<strong>the</strong> "Blaue Engel" is<br />

always decorated for<br />

advent (bot<strong>to</strong>m).<br />

dish that is full of symbolism. There should be a<br />

bit of everything in it – with <strong>the</strong> meat it has <strong>to</strong> be<br />

something from <strong>the</strong> air, usually goose, something<br />

from <strong>the</strong> water, carp, for example, and something<br />

from <strong>the</strong> earth, like rabbit. Pota<strong>to</strong> dumplings symbolise<br />

large coins, that should bless <strong>the</strong> house, while<br />

lentils stand for smaller coins. Celery is <strong>the</strong> fertility<br />

symbol. Beetroot is added for red cheeks. And it<br />

has <strong>to</strong> have sauerkraut, so that <strong>the</strong> straw grows high<br />

in <strong>the</strong> fields.<br />

And you're really supposed <strong>to</strong> eat all this in<br />

one go?<br />

Yes – three times actually. Here in <strong>the</strong> Ore Mountains<br />

we have several <strong>Christmas</strong> evenings: <strong>Christmas</strong><br />

Eve, <strong>the</strong>n New Year's Eve and <strong>the</strong>n "Hohneujahr<br />

-Heiligabend", as we call <strong>the</strong> Saturday before<br />

Epiphany.<br />

Is <strong>the</strong> tradition of <strong>the</strong> "Neunerlei" still alive<br />

and well?<br />

Definitely. We put it on <strong>the</strong> menu starting on <strong>the</strong><br />

first advent Sunday and <strong>the</strong>n we serve it on traditional<br />

plates with nine separate sections. In our<br />

family we have it every year on <strong>Christmas</strong> Eve as<br />

well. Only goose, now that's something I really<br />

have had enough of after 11 November, when<br />

everyone eats goose for St. Martin's feast. I have<br />

just cooked it, smelled it and tasted it <strong>to</strong>o many<br />

times by <strong>the</strong>n.<br />

In <strong>the</strong> kitchen <strong>the</strong> staff are just drinking coffee as<br />

Benjamin Unger starts on his modern interpretation<br />

of <strong>the</strong> "Neunerlei". Within minutes six gas burners<br />

are burning in a row; and he quickly juggles pots and<br />

pans on <strong>the</strong>m.<br />

Unger stirs, seasons, fills foams in<strong>to</strong> little tuilles. He<br />

lays a big sliver of a red, transparent material on<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

work surface. "Beetroot, rammed through a few compounds",<br />

he explains.<br />

Mr Unger, what is your contemporary<br />

"Neunerlei" composition going <strong>to</strong> be?<br />

This is a goose breast, laid on<strong>to</strong> some red cabbage<br />

– I like this best done <strong>the</strong> classic way. Then beluga<br />

lentils, done with balsamic vinegar – <strong>the</strong>y are a little<br />

finer than <strong>the</strong> normal lentils from <strong>the</strong> Ore Mountains.<br />

They are <strong>to</strong>pped with a pota<strong>to</strong> thaler made of<br />

buttermilk pastry – buttermilk stands for pure skin<br />

and is also important in <strong>the</strong> "Neunerlei". Then I<br />

have placed a green dumpling on <strong>to</strong>p of that.<br />

And what's that on <strong>to</strong>p of <strong>the</strong> dumpling?<br />

Sauerkraut air, a type of foam. The white dots,<br />

that's a celery mousse, and <strong>the</strong> red dots are made of<br />

beetroot. I also made <strong>the</strong> wafer out of beetroot, that<br />

looks like a sail.<br />

So it's just <strong>the</strong> fish that's missing.<br />

Can you see <strong>the</strong> ring <strong>the</strong>re on <strong>the</strong> right? That's an<br />

anchovy.<br />

LEGAL NOTICE<br />

Saxony – welcome <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>Christmas</strong> <strong>Wonderland</strong><br />

as a supplement in <strong>the</strong><br />

"Frankfurter Allgemeine<br />

Zeitung“, <strong>the</strong> "Frankfurter<br />

Allgemeine Sonntagszeitung",<br />

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Zeitung“ and <strong>the</strong> "WELT“<br />

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Saxony


Sterneln : Making stars <strong>to</strong>ge<strong>the</strong>r<br />

on <strong>the</strong> first of advent in Herrnhut<br />

Herrnhut lights up: The famous stars are<br />

hand-crafted. Yvonne Lehmann has <strong>the</strong><br />

skill <strong>to</strong> make a miniature version of just<br />

13 centimetres.<br />

Let <strong>the</strong> stars shine<br />

What must be <strong>the</strong> most beautiful <strong>Christmas</strong> accessory<br />

is created in a workshop in Upper Lusatia.<br />

15<br />

Pho<strong>to</strong>s: Sebastian Arlt; Hotel Blauer Engel<br />

Yvonne Lehmann must have a natural<br />

talent – <strong>the</strong>re is no o<strong>the</strong>r way <strong>to</strong> explain<br />

it.<br />

When <strong>the</strong> 41 year old moved <strong>to</strong> Herrnhut<br />

she had never even heard of <strong>the</strong><br />

famous stars. "Where I came from<br />

in North Saxony we hadn't heard of<br />

<strong>the</strong>m", says Lehmann as she folds a<br />

piece of paper over <strong>the</strong> blade of a kitchen<br />

knife. Six years after she arrived <strong>the</strong>re<br />

she is considered <strong>to</strong> be one of <strong>the</strong> most<br />

talented craftswomen in <strong>the</strong><br />

Herrnhut workshop. She can do what<br />

only two o<strong>the</strong>r of her colleagues can<br />

do: make miniature versions of <strong>the</strong> famous<br />

stars only 13 centimetres across.<br />

This takes a steady hand and a great deal<br />

of skill.<br />

Lehmann folds <strong>the</strong> tiny piece of paper<br />

along <strong>the</strong> prepared fold, dips a brush<br />

in<strong>to</strong> glue and glues <strong>the</strong> whole thing.<br />

Now one of <strong>the</strong> 25 points that make up<br />

<strong>the</strong> Moravian star is ready. It takes an<br />

hour and a half – you just can't make an<br />

original star any faster than that.<br />

The tradition of <strong>the</strong> Moravian stars<br />

has its roots in 1821 – and ironically<br />

it stems from a generally sober subject<br />

– maths lessons. There was a teacher<br />

at <strong>the</strong> Herrnhut boarding school who<br />

wanted <strong>to</strong> teach his pupils an exercise in<br />

geometry and got <strong>the</strong>m <strong>to</strong> make a star<br />

for advent, which was <strong>to</strong> be designed <strong>to</strong><br />

be like <strong>the</strong> Bethlehem star. The pupils<br />

made <strong>the</strong> first Moravian star and put<br />

a light in<strong>to</strong> its paper body. And while<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir parents, Evangelical brethren missionaries<br />

were spreading <strong>the</strong> light of belief<br />

across <strong>the</strong> globe, <strong>the</strong> boarding school<br />

pupils sat down <strong>to</strong>ge<strong>the</strong>r <strong>to</strong> make stars,<br />

or <strong>to</strong> „Sterneln“, as <strong>the</strong>y called it, <strong>to</strong><br />

get in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong> spirit.<br />

The tradition survived and spread<br />

successfully because <strong>the</strong> stars shine with<br />

<strong>Christmas</strong> warmth with <strong>the</strong>ir pure, simple<br />

design transcending fashion and featuring<br />

as a stylish accessory, even in <strong>the</strong><br />

livings rooms in <strong>the</strong> cities. Now <strong>the</strong> stars<br />

are made all year round, with a production<br />

of up <strong>to</strong> 400,000 in a range of sizes<br />

and colours. The classic is red and white,<br />

<strong>the</strong> symbols for purity and <strong>the</strong> blood of<br />

Christ. When East and West Germany<br />

were still spilt, models with yellow<br />

points were very popular in <strong>the</strong> East,<br />

maybe because nobody wanted <strong>to</strong> see<br />

red stars in <strong>the</strong>ir living room as well.<br />

Yvonne Lehmann has glued eight<br />

points <strong>to</strong> form a ring, <strong>the</strong>n added ano<strong>the</strong>r<br />

made of four parts, and <strong>the</strong>n <strong>the</strong><br />

last point is added on <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>p. In <strong>the</strong><br />

gaps that form she has <strong>to</strong> put little paper<br />

balls. Then she picks up <strong>the</strong> delicate<br />

construction with tweezers. "If I am only<br />

a millimetre out, I can chuck it in <strong>the</strong><br />

bin", she says. Then she has <strong>to</strong> concentrate<br />

so that she gets it right. And she's<br />

hit <strong>the</strong> target. Well, she is blessed with<br />

natural talent, after all.<br />

<strong>Welcome</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong> <strong>Wonderland</strong>


No, <strong>the</strong> boy in <strong>the</strong> picture is not<br />

Erich Kästner. But he must have<br />

looked a bit like that when <strong>the</strong><br />

writer, born in 1899 in Dresden,<br />

inspected <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong> tree full<br />

of hope and expectation. In <strong>the</strong><br />

book “When I was a little boy”, he<br />

reminisces about his childhood at<br />

Königsbrücker Straße 66 with a<br />

finely tuned sense of irony – and<br />

how <strong>to</strong>o much love sent him on<br />

an emotional rollercoaster one<br />

<strong>Christmas</strong> Eve.<br />

16<br />

Sachsen


Textauszug gekürzt aus: „Als ich ein kleiner Junge war“ von Erich Kästner (c) Atrium Verlag, Zürich 1957; Fo<strong>to</strong>: TV-Yesterday<br />

Nur einmal in jedem Jahr hätte ich sehnlich gewünscht,<br />

Geschwister zu besitzen: am Heiligabend! Am ersten Feiertag<br />

hätten sie ja gut und gerne wieder fortfliegen können,<br />

meinetwegen erst nach dem Gänsebraten mit den rohen<br />

Klößen, dem Rotkraut und dem Selleriesalat. Ich hätte sogar<br />

auf meine eigene Portion verzichtet und stattdessen Gänseklein<br />

gegessen, wenn ich nur am 24. Dezember abends nicht allein<br />

gewesen wäre! Die Hälfte der Geschenke hätten sie haben können<br />

und es waren wahrhaftig herrliche Geschenke!<br />

Und warum wollte ich gerade an diesem Abend, am<br />

schönsten Abend eines Kinderjahres, nicht allein und nicht<br />

das einzige Kind sein? Ich hatte Angst. Ich fürchtete mich vor<br />

der Bescherung! Ich hatte Furcht davor und durfte sie nicht<br />

zeigen. Es ist kein Wunder, dass ihr<br />

das nicht gleich versteht. Ich habe<br />

mir lange überlegt, ob ich darüber<br />

sprechen solle oder nicht. Ich will<br />

darüber sprechen!<br />

Also muss ich es euch erklären.<br />

Meine Eltern waren, aus Liebe zu<br />

mir, aufeinander eifersüchtig. (…)<br />

Wochenlang, halbe nächte hindurch,<br />

hatte mein Vater im Keller<br />

gesessen und zum Beispiel einen wundervollen Pferdestall<br />

gebaut. Er hatte geschnitzt und genagelt, geleimt und gemalt,<br />

Schriften gepinselt, winziges Zaumzeug zugeschnitten<br />

und genäht, die Pferdemähnen mit Bändern durchflochten,<br />

die Raufen mit Heu gefüllt, und immer noch<br />

war ihm, beim Blaken der Petroleumlampe, etwas eingefallen,<br />

noch ein Scharnier, noch ein Beschlag, noch ein<br />

Haken, noch ein Stallbesen, noch eine Haferkiste, bis er<br />

endlich zufrieden schmunzelte und wusste: »Das macht mir<br />

keiner nach!« (…)<br />

Es waren Geschenke, bei deren Anblick sogar Prinzen die<br />

Hände überm Kopf zusammengeschlagen hätten, aber Prinzen<br />

hätte mein Vater sie nicht geschenkt.<br />

Wochenlang, halbe Tage hindurch, hatte meine Mutter<br />

die Stadt durchstreift und die Geschäfte durchwühlt. Sie kaufte<br />

jedes Jahr Geschenke, bis sich deren Versteck, die Kommode,<br />

krumm bog. Sie kaufte Rollschuhe, Ankersteinbaukästen,<br />

Buntstifte, Farbtuben, Malbücher, Hanteln und Keulen für<br />

den Turnverein, einen Faustball für den Hof, Schlittschuhe,<br />

musikalische Wunderkreisel, Wanderstiefel, einen Norwegerschlitten,<br />

ein Kästchen mit Präzisionszirkeln auf blauem Samt,<br />

einen Kaufmannsladen, einen Zauberkasten, Kaleidoskope,<br />

Zinnsoldaten, eine kleine Druckerei mit Setzbuchstaben und,<br />

von Paul Schurig und den Empfehlungen des Sächsischen Lehrervereins<br />

angeleitet, viele, viele gute Kinderbücher. (…)<br />

Es war ein Konkurrenzkampf aus Liebe zu mir und es<br />

war ein verbissener Kampf. Es war ein Drama mit drei Personen<br />

und der letzte Akt fand, alljährlich, am Heiligabend statt.<br />

Die Hauptrolle spielte ein kleiner Junge. Von seinem Talent<br />

aus dem Stegreif hing es ab, ob das Stück eine Komödie oder<br />

ein Trauerspiel wurde. Noch heute klopft mir, wenn ich daran<br />

denke, das Herz bis in den Hals. (…)<br />

For<br />

legal reasons Eine<br />

<strong>the</strong> extract Dresdner is<br />

unfortunately Weihnachtsnot<br />

available geschichte von<br />

online Erich<br />

KÄstnEr<br />

Ich stand also am Küchenfenster und blickte in die Fenster gegenüber.<br />

Hier und dort zündete man schon die Kerzen an. Der<br />

Schnee auf der Straße glänzte im Laternenlicht. Weihnachtslieder<br />

erklangen. Im Ofen prasselte das Feuer, aber ich fror.<br />

Es duftete nach Rosinens<strong>to</strong>llen, Vanillezucker und Zitronat.<br />

Doch mir war elend zumute. (…)<br />

Und dann hörte ich meine Mutter rufen: »Jetzt kannst<br />

du kommen!« Ich ergriff die hübsch eingewickelten Geschenke<br />

für die beiden und trat in den Flur. Die Zimmertür stand<br />

offen. Der Christbaum strahlte. Vater und Mutter hatten sich<br />

links und rechts vom Tisch postiert, jeder neben seine Gaben,<br />

als sei das Zimmer samt dem Fest halbiert. »Oh«, sagte ich,<br />

»wie schön!«, und meinte beide Hälften. Ich hielt mich noch<br />

in der nähe der Tür, sodass mein<br />

Versuch, glücklich zu lächeln,<br />

Dreierkonferenz<br />

unterm<br />

Christbaum<br />

unmissverständlich beiden galt.<br />

Der Papa, mit der erloschnen Zigarre<br />

im Munde, beschmunzelte<br />

den firnisblanken Pferdestall.<br />

Die Mama blickte triumphierend<br />

auf das Gabengebirge zu<br />

ihrer Rechten. Wir lächelten<br />

zu dritt und überlächelten unsre<br />

dreifache Unruhe. Doch ich konnte<br />

nicht an der Tür stehen bleiben!<br />

Ach, wenn ich allein gewesen wäre,<br />

allein mit den Geschenken und<br />

dem himmlischen Gefühl, doppelt<br />

und aus zweifacher Liebe beschenkt<br />

zu werden! Wie selig wär ich gewesen<br />

und was für ein glückliches Kind! Doch<br />

ich musste meine Rolle spielen, damit<br />

das Weihnachtsstück gut ausgehe. Ich war<br />

ein Diplomat, erwachsener als meine Eltern, und hatte dafür<br />

Sorge zu tragen, dass unsre feierliche Dreierkonferenz unterm<br />

Christbaum ohne Missklang verlief. (…)<br />

Ich stand am Tisch und freute mich im Pendelverkehr. Ich<br />

freute mich rechts, zur Freude meiner Mutter. Ich freute mich<br />

an der linken Tischhälfte über den Pferdestall im Allgemeinen.<br />

Dann freute ich mich wieder rechts, diesmal über den Rodelschlitten,<br />

und dann wieder links, besonders über das Lederzeug.<br />

Und noch einmal rechts, und noch einmal links, und<br />

nirgends zu lange, und nirgends zu flüchtig. Ich freute mich<br />

ehrlich und musste meine Freude zerlegen und zerlügen. Ich<br />

gab beiden je einen Kuss auf die Backe. (…)<br />

Nebenan, bei Grüttners, sangen sie »O du fröhliche, o du<br />

selige, gnadenbringende Weihnachtszeit!« Mein Vater holte ein<br />

Portemonnaie aus der Tasche, das er im Keller zugeschnitten<br />

und genäht hatte, hielt es meiner Mutter hin und sagte: »Das<br />

hätt ich ja beinahe vergessen!« Sie zeigte auf ihre Tischhälfte,<br />

wo für ihn Socken, warme lange Unterhosen und ein Schlips<br />

lagen. Manchmal fiel ihnen, erst wenn wir bei Würstchen und<br />

Kar<strong>to</strong>ffelsalat saßen, ein, dass sie vergessen hatten, einander ihre<br />

Geschenke zu geben. Und meine Mutter meinte: »Das hat ja<br />

Zeit bis nach dem Essen.«<br />

17<br />

Willkommen im Weihnachtsland


"Glück auf, Glück auf, der Steiger kommt!"<br />

(Good luck, here comes <strong>the</strong> foreman!)<br />

18<br />

Soon noble metals are <strong>to</strong> be mined<br />

again in a few spots in <strong>the</strong> Ore<br />

Mountains, but in Freiberg <strong>the</strong><br />

heyday of mining has passed. So<br />

why does <strong>the</strong> miners' guild carry<br />

on?<br />

Dieter Joel: Because all <strong>the</strong> old<br />

friends and colleagues come <strong>to</strong>ge<strong>the</strong>r<br />

here. Lounging around on <strong>the</strong> sofa<br />

at home, that's really not my cup<br />

of tea.<br />

Maximilian Götze: I was born in<strong>to</strong><br />

this. My fa<strong>the</strong>r studied mining here,<br />

and is now involved in <strong>the</strong> association.<br />

And I also think it's important<br />

<strong>to</strong> keep traditions going, as <strong>the</strong>y will<br />

o<strong>the</strong>rwise be forgotten. It simply belongs<br />

<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

region.<br />

Mr. Joel, when did you start wearing<br />

this uniform?<br />

Joel: In 1991. I was an electrician<br />

in <strong>the</strong> mining industry; nowadays<br />

I look after <strong>the</strong> association's wardrobe.<br />

The club has 440 members,<br />

and almost 230 of <strong>the</strong>m are joining<br />

in in <strong>the</strong> parade. That's a whole<br />

lot of trousers, jackets and swords.<br />

If but<strong>to</strong>ns fall off <strong>the</strong> members will<br />

mercifully usually sew <strong>the</strong>m back on<br />

<strong>the</strong>mselves.<br />

Maximilian, how long have you<br />

been a member?<br />

Götze: My mo<strong>the</strong>r made me my first<br />

miner's uniform when I was three.<br />

Joel: I can remember you back <strong>the</strong>n:<br />

You sat on <strong>the</strong> pavement in your<br />

uniform and bashed away at <strong>the</strong> kerb<br />

with a hammer. You probably wanted<br />

<strong>to</strong> burrow in a mine shaft.<br />

The traditions really come in<strong>to</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong>ir own during <strong>the</strong> advent time.<br />

Joel: We are on <strong>the</strong> road every weekend.<br />

The highlight is our shift before<br />

<strong>Christmas</strong> Eve. This used <strong>to</strong> be<br />

<strong>the</strong> last shift before <strong>Christmas</strong>. Nobody<br />

worked all that much, but spirits<br />

were high. The foreman – who<br />

was in charge of <strong>the</strong> pit – ga<strong>the</strong>red<br />

Pho<strong>to</strong>s: Sebastian Arlt<br />

Saxony


There are six decades between <strong>the</strong>m: Dieter Joel (77) and<br />

Maximilian Götze (16), members of <strong>the</strong> his<strong>to</strong>rical "Freiberg<br />

Berg- und Hüttenknappschaft", <strong>the</strong> miners' guild, on <strong>the</strong><br />

traditional last mining shift on <strong>Christmas</strong> Eve and <strong>the</strong><br />

not-very-sophisticated mining vocabulary.<br />

With sword, pit hat and uniform: Dieter<br />

Joel (far left) and Maximilian Götze (3rd<br />

from <strong>the</strong> right) with comrades in <strong>the</strong><br />

Freiberg guild room.<br />

Dates for <strong>Christmas</strong> Eve shifts in <strong>the</strong><br />

Ore Mountains are available at<br />

www.bergbautradition-sachsen.de<br />

Tzscherper: little lea<strong>the</strong>r bags<br />

that <strong>the</strong> miners used <strong>to</strong> use for<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir "Tzscherper knife", which<br />

<strong>the</strong>y would use <strong>to</strong> check <strong>the</strong> condition<br />

of <strong>the</strong> wooden construction<br />

in <strong>the</strong> mine.<br />

his miners <strong>to</strong>ge<strong>the</strong>r. Everyone would<br />

bring something <strong>to</strong> eat from home.<br />

Götze: That's what it is that makes<br />

<strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong> Eve shift – food, food,<br />

food...<br />

Joel: But something happens before<br />

that: On <strong>the</strong> Saturday before <strong>the</strong> second<br />

Sunday in advent we get <strong>to</strong>ge<strong>the</strong>r<br />

at 5 in <strong>the</strong> afternoon and <strong>the</strong>n <strong>the</strong><br />

parade starts. We parade through <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>to</strong>wn <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Nikolai Church, and we<br />

pay our respects <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Freibergers in<br />

<strong>the</strong> Albert Park and two bands play.<br />

Götze: Then we stand on <strong>the</strong> stairs<br />

outside, sing <strong>the</strong> foreman's song and<br />

<strong>the</strong> whole audience joins in. "Glück<br />

auf, Glück auf, der Steiger kommt!"<br />

When you have such a large crowd<br />

singing <strong>the</strong> song – it's exhilarating.<br />

And <strong>the</strong> food?<br />

Joel: That's afterwards, when we are<br />

among ourselves. This is when <strong>the</strong><br />

new colleagues join if <strong>the</strong>y can answer<br />

three questions: <strong>the</strong>ir name,<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir status and <strong>the</strong>ir life mot<strong>to</strong>.<br />

Then <strong>the</strong>y have <strong>to</strong> drink a beer with<br />

<strong>the</strong> examiner – <strong>to</strong> show that <strong>the</strong>y can<br />

handle jumping over <strong>the</strong> bum lea<strong>the</strong>r<br />

afterwards.<br />

Sorry, over what?<br />

Joel: Miners used <strong>to</strong> wear a kind of<br />

lea<strong>the</strong>r apron, but for <strong>the</strong> back. It<br />

was so that <strong>the</strong> seat of your trousers<br />

didn't get wet. Do you see? The term<br />

is a little direct, but <strong>the</strong>n miners<br />

aren't really all that genteel.<br />

So what do you keep in <strong>the</strong>se little<br />

bags at <strong>the</strong> front on your belt?<br />

Götze: The Tzscherper is part of <strong>the</strong><br />

uniform. Miners used <strong>to</strong> keep things<br />

in it <strong>to</strong> make light, like matches,<br />

hemp or flint. Some people put <strong>the</strong>ir<br />

mobile in it now, or <strong>the</strong>ir camera.<br />

My bag is empty at <strong>the</strong> moment.<br />

Joel: I've got a pestle and a knife in<br />

mine, just like <strong>the</strong> chief blaster used<br />

<strong>to</strong> have. And some medicine for<br />

headache. It's a pure coincidence<br />

that it looks like liqueur.<br />

19<br />

<strong>Welcome</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong> <strong>Wonderland</strong>


20<br />

Three s<strong>to</strong>ries<br />

about Cinderella<br />

40 years ago, <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong><br />

cult film "Three<br />

gifts for Cinderella"<br />

was shot at <strong>the</strong> Moritzburg<br />

Castle. And visi<strong>to</strong>rs<br />

are still swept away by<br />

<strong>the</strong> fairytale ambience<br />

in <strong>the</strong> castle.<br />

Erich Weber,<br />

now 69, likes <strong>the</strong><br />

music, alongside<br />

<strong>the</strong> window scene.<br />

"Well? Have you seen my window?", I<br />

ask everyone, when "Cinderella" came<br />

on <strong>the</strong> TV. You can see it for a few seconds<br />

in one of <strong>the</strong> scenes. Lit up, which<br />

earned me 50 marks – which was a lot<br />

of money back <strong>the</strong>n. I was working as a<br />

decora<strong>to</strong>r in <strong>the</strong> castle and had a flat at<br />

<strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>p in <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>wer. The film team put<br />

a floodlight in my room and covered<br />

<strong>the</strong> window with parchment so that <strong>the</strong><br />

old castle didn't look as if nobody lived<br />

<strong>the</strong>re. And <strong>the</strong>y paid rent <strong>to</strong> do that.<br />

We sometimes sat in <strong>the</strong> café with Rolf<br />

Hoppe, who played <strong>the</strong> king, and <strong>the</strong><br />

prince and <strong>the</strong> princess in <strong>the</strong> shooting<br />

breaks. Everyone was swooning about<br />

<strong>the</strong> pretty princess afterwards – but unfortunately<br />

she never visited again."<br />

Marion Becker,<br />

now 65, likes<br />

"everything"<br />

best about<br />

"Cinderella".<br />

"At <strong>the</strong> start of <strong>the</strong> seventies I often played<br />

a double if <strong>the</strong>y needed riders during <strong>the</strong><br />

filming. "Cinderella" wasn't anything special<br />

really. I was waiting with Kalif, an old<br />

circus horse at <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>p of <strong>the</strong> steps. I was<br />

waiting for <strong>the</strong> signal <strong>to</strong> go down <strong>the</strong> steps<br />

for <strong>the</strong> escape scene and <strong>the</strong>n ride through<br />

<strong>the</strong> gate. The stairs were covered in ice, Kalif<br />

didn't want <strong>to</strong> gallop, and you can see in<br />

<strong>the</strong> film that I really had <strong>to</strong> drive him on. I<br />

was 25 back <strong>the</strong>n and had a normal figure,<br />

but <strong>the</strong> actress was very slight. So we had <strong>to</strong><br />

leave Cinderella's costume open at <strong>the</strong> back<br />

– but nobody noticed because I was wearing<br />

a cape over it. My husband always used <strong>to</strong><br />

watch <strong>the</strong> film at least five times at <strong>Christmas</strong><br />

until I <strong>to</strong>ld him: "Do you know what? I<br />

can't stand <strong>to</strong> watch it any more!"<br />

Pho<strong>to</strong>s: Sebastian Arlt; Moritzburg Castle and Fasanenschlösschen (Pheasant<br />

Castle) /Gabriele Hilsky; DEFA-Stiftung, Jaromir Komarek<br />

Saxony


Idyllic comfort, love and <strong>Christmas</strong>:<br />

The beautiful Cinderella finds her<br />

prince charming (below), with <strong>the</strong><br />

help of three hazelnuts (centre bot<strong>to</strong>m).<br />

Rolf Hoppe and Karin Lesch<br />

played <strong>the</strong> old royal couple (bot<strong>to</strong>m)<br />

in an unforgettably funny performance.<br />

A special exhibition at <strong>the</strong><br />

Moritzburg castle is running until 2<br />

March <strong>to</strong> celebrate <strong>the</strong> filming and<br />

<strong>the</strong> myth of Cinderella.<br />

For more information, see<br />

www.schloss-moritzburg.de<br />

21<br />

Margitta Hensel,<br />

48, is <strong>the</strong> cura<strong>to</strong>r<br />

for <strong>the</strong> Cinderella<br />

exhibition. Her<br />

favourite parts are<br />

where <strong>the</strong> king and<br />

queen fight like an<br />

old couple.<br />

"I don't know how many proposals of marriage have been<br />

made on those steps. There was once even a sandal at <strong>the</strong><br />

bot<strong>to</strong>m of <strong>the</strong> steps with a telephone number and <strong>the</strong> note:<br />

"Prince charming wanted". We are making <strong>the</strong> fans' affinity<br />

with <strong>the</strong> film <strong>the</strong> subject of this year's exhibition. The<br />

film is not only well made, it seems <strong>to</strong> get under your skin<br />

and <strong>to</strong> awaken longing. Love, childlike naivety, humour, a<br />

world intact – <strong>the</strong>se are things that people clearly feel are<br />

missing nowadays. Interestingly <strong>the</strong> film makers hardly use<br />

any special effects, which is why <strong>the</strong> film comes across as<br />

realistic, but has a fairytale feel about it. The 40 original<br />

costumes on show are <strong>the</strong> highlight for many of <strong>the</strong> visi<strong>to</strong>rs.<br />

For decades <strong>the</strong>re was hardly any interest in <strong>the</strong> film<br />

props – <strong>the</strong>n <strong>the</strong> fans started researching what had happened<br />

<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> costumes. Ta dah! Many of <strong>the</strong>m were still<br />

hanging up in <strong>the</strong> studios in <strong>the</strong> Czech Republic. Some of<br />

<strong>the</strong>m have even taken on <strong>the</strong> status of national cultural assets<br />

over <strong>the</strong>re."<br />

<strong>Welcome</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong> <strong>Wonderland</strong>


22<br />

Discovering what it<br />

means <strong>to</strong> be slow: anyone<br />

walking in<strong>to</strong> Ekkard<br />

Seidl's workshop in Markneukirchen<br />

inevitably<br />

falls in pace with <strong>the</strong><br />

rhythm of <strong>the</strong> place. It is<br />

only with this peace and<br />

quiet that <strong>the</strong> 50-year old<br />

violin maker can create<br />

his bespoke instruments.<br />

The singing<br />

soul of wood<br />

EKKARD SEIDL<br />

FROM THE VOGT-<br />

LAND MUSIC<br />

CORNER EXPLAINS<br />

WHY THERE IS ONE<br />

THING YOU REALLY<br />

NEED IF YOU<br />

ARE BUILDING<br />

A VIOLIN:<br />

EMPATHY.<br />

The most exciting thing in my work is <strong>to</strong><br />

hear one of my violins in a concert. It is only<br />

<strong>the</strong>n that its character unfolds, or you<br />

could say where it bares its soul. Because<br />

every instrument has a soul – and every violin<br />

<strong>to</strong>o, of course. And its soul comes from<br />

various sources: First of all, it is in <strong>the</strong> wood<br />

it is made from. Then <strong>the</strong> violin builder<br />

puts part of his own soul in<strong>to</strong> it. And <strong>the</strong>n<br />

<strong>the</strong> musicians do <strong>the</strong> same – and of course,<br />

<strong>the</strong> composers, whose works are played on<br />

<strong>the</strong> instruments. I usually have <strong>to</strong> travel <strong>to</strong><br />

hear my violins: My cus<strong>to</strong>mers come from<br />

far afield and many play in symphony orchestras.<br />

I have very few cus<strong>to</strong>mers from this region.<br />

Despite <strong>the</strong> fact that we have a great musical<br />

tradition in <strong>the</strong> Vogtland... and not only<br />

at <strong>Christmas</strong>. We also have a long his<strong>to</strong>ry<br />

of producing instruments: Anyone in <strong>the</strong><br />

Vogtland who wants <strong>to</strong> play music usually<br />

has someone in <strong>the</strong> family who can build<br />

him a violin, trumpet or flute. If a coach<br />

full of musicians s<strong>to</strong>pped here, every musician<br />

on board would be able <strong>to</strong> find a master<br />

craftsman here <strong>to</strong> build him an instrument.<br />

Markneukirchen is unique in this<br />

respect.<br />

As well as contact with good colleagues,<br />

this area gives me <strong>the</strong> peace and quiet that I<br />

need for <strong>the</strong> 200 working hours it takes <strong>to</strong><br />

make a violin. I could never work in a <strong>to</strong>wn.<br />

I see myself as an artisan: 95% of my work<br />

is precision handicraft, and <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r 5%<br />

is difficult <strong>to</strong> describe in words. You know,<br />

when I build a violin, <strong>the</strong>re are a lot of decisions<br />

I have <strong>to</strong> make: Which piece of wood<br />

should I choose? What shape should it be,<br />

what should <strong>the</strong> proportions be? The combination<br />

determines what sort of instrument<br />

I will have made in <strong>the</strong> end.<br />

My violins are almost all special orders<br />

for musicians. Before I start, I ideally need<br />

<strong>to</strong> make an accurate picture of how <strong>the</strong>y<br />

play. Most cus<strong>to</strong>mers come <strong>to</strong> me in <strong>the</strong><br />

Vogtland <strong>to</strong> my little workshop for this. To<br />

offer <strong>the</strong>m <strong>the</strong> best possible service, I need a<br />

good ear, all my experience from 34 years of<br />

work – and a lot of empathy. But at <strong>the</strong> end<br />

of <strong>the</strong> day my violins are just objects: art is<br />

a separate entity in its own right; violins are<br />

used, <strong>the</strong>y are played on. I am a <strong>to</strong>y maker,<br />

as it were.<br />

Pho<strong>to</strong>s: Sebastian Arlt<br />

Saxony


<strong>Welcome</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong> <strong>Wonderland</strong>


Dresden<br />

lights up<br />

S<strong>to</strong>pping and staring in wonder – always<br />

a good idea when you see <strong>the</strong><br />

rebuilt Dresden Frauenkirche. For<br />

<strong>the</strong> last few years <strong>the</strong>re is ano<strong>the</strong>r<br />

reason <strong>to</strong> s<strong>to</strong>p piously in front of <strong>the</strong><br />

church, even in winter, and <strong>to</strong> drink<br />

a mulled wine. The "Advent on <strong>the</strong><br />

Neumarkt" recreates <strong>the</strong> time between<br />

1830 and 1920.<br />

There is no stress and no hustle and<br />

bustle at <strong>the</strong> his<strong>to</strong>ric <strong>Christmas</strong> market.<br />

Instead it is a haven of high<br />

quality craftsmanship, delicacies and<br />

a nativity scene with real animals.<br />

Saxony


A little window every day<br />

House visit on <strong>the</strong> culture scene:<br />

Dresden's Neustadt celebrates advent<br />

in its own unique way.<br />

25<br />

Pho<strong>to</strong>s: Sebastian Arlt; Ulla Wacker; E+ / Getty Images<br />

Oksana Rucker<br />

(38; left) and<br />

Ulla Wacker (41)<br />

feel that <strong>the</strong> Neustadt<br />

has <strong>to</strong> stay raw<br />

and creative. With<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir "Advenster",<br />

<strong>the</strong>y transform <strong>the</strong><br />

Dresden culture hotspot<br />

in<strong>to</strong> a walk-in<br />

advent calender in<br />

December<br />

When little chocolate Fa<strong>the</strong>r <strong>Christmas</strong> figures<br />

start making an appearance in <strong>the</strong> supermarkets<br />

in late summer, Ulla Wacker<br />

and Oksana Rucker know that <strong>the</strong> time has<br />

come <strong>to</strong> start preparing <strong>the</strong> windows. The<br />

Dresden ladies<br />

are members of <strong>the</strong> "Advenster", a group<br />

that was founded ten years ago, and which<br />

decorates a different window in <strong>the</strong> Dresden<br />

Neustadt with art every day in December.<br />

It started with set decora<strong>to</strong>rs building<br />

<strong>the</strong> building site in front of <strong>the</strong>ir houses in<br />

miniature on <strong>the</strong> window sill, with a mini<br />

digger which would drive when you pressed<br />

on a but<strong>to</strong>n. Later on it was not only windows,<br />

but doors that opened. And what<br />

started as a slightly different art exhibition<br />

became a happening with concerts, film<br />

showings and performance art. Nobody<br />

knew what would happen behind <strong>the</strong> doors<br />

and windows at 6 in <strong>the</strong> evening. But one<br />

thing was sure: it won't have anything <strong>to</strong> do<br />

with sweet, <strong>to</strong>uchy-feely sentimentalism.<br />

The Neustadt, Dresden's culture hotspot:<br />

In <strong>the</strong> 90s and <strong>the</strong> early noughties "grandmo<strong>the</strong>rs,<br />

students, ex-convicts and artists"<br />

lived here, explain Wacker and Rucker.<br />

When <strong>the</strong>y talk about how it was back <strong>the</strong>n,<br />

<strong>the</strong>y start <strong>to</strong> rave about it. But <strong>the</strong> minute<br />

you mention <strong>the</strong> word "gentrification" <strong>the</strong>y<br />

start <strong>to</strong> rant – and that in itself would be a<br />

good Advenster performance. High earners<br />

and inves<strong>to</strong>rs have also discovered <strong>the</strong> Neustadt.<br />

The founding "Advenster" dispersed at<br />

some point, and <strong>the</strong> second generation <strong>to</strong>ok<br />

over. Wacker coordinates various neighbouring<br />

initiatives in <strong>the</strong> district hall, and<br />

Rucker came up with <strong>the</strong> idea of <strong>the</strong> "Advenster"<br />

one day when she was picking up<br />

her daughter from nursery school. "There<br />

was something conspira<strong>to</strong>ry about it. And<br />

<strong>the</strong> gang got <strong>to</strong>ge<strong>the</strong>r, and <strong>the</strong>n something<br />

happened." Despite all <strong>the</strong> changes, <strong>the</strong>re is<br />

one thing <strong>the</strong> two are sure about: "The Neustadt<br />

will always be <strong>the</strong> Neu-stadt." How<br />

it is going <strong>to</strong> look in advent is still a secret.<br />

But <strong>the</strong> dates and addresses aren't. They are<br />

available at www.advenster.de<br />

<strong>Welcome</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong> <strong>Wonderland</strong>


26<br />

A girl, a man made of<br />

wood and a fairy tale:<br />

The dream world of<br />

<strong>the</strong> "Nutcracker" was<br />

transferred <strong>to</strong> Dresden<br />

<strong>to</strong> be performed<br />

by <strong>the</strong> Semperoper.<br />

31-year old Anna<br />

Merkulova is <strong>the</strong> star<br />

of <strong>the</strong> piece by<br />

Peter Tschaikowsky.<br />

Saxony


Pho<strong>to</strong>s: Sebastian Arlt; Costin Radu<br />

Magic in a<br />

snows<strong>to</strong>rm<br />

Ukrainian dancer<br />

Anna Merkulova<br />

dances Marie in <strong>the</strong><br />

"Nutcracker".<br />

The role is one she knows<br />

well. But <strong>Christmas</strong> in<br />

Saxony is something she<br />

had <strong>to</strong> get <strong>to</strong> know.<br />

Miss Merkulova, what is special about <strong>the</strong> Dresden production of<br />

<strong>the</strong> "Nutcracker"?<br />

"The Nutcracker" is everywhere, wherever you go in December. Even<br />

in Miami, where half <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>wn is sitting on <strong>the</strong> beach or around a<br />

BBQ in <strong>the</strong> 30 degree heat. Here in Dresden, it's different: <strong>the</strong> atmosphere<br />

outside <strong>the</strong> opera and on <strong>the</strong> stage complement each o<strong>the</strong>r perfectly,<br />

even down <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> production design. Our "Nutcracker" starts<br />

on <strong>the</strong> Striezelmarkt, and also moves <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Zwinger Palace – that's<br />

<strong>Christmas</strong> in its purest form!<br />

You come from <strong>the</strong> Ukraine. Was it difficult for you <strong>to</strong> get used <strong>to</strong><br />

<strong>Christmas</strong> in Dresden?<br />

When you are standing at a mulled wine stand after work with your<br />

colleagues, it's easy <strong>to</strong> get used <strong>to</strong> it. But you are right: in Saxony <strong>the</strong>y<br />

celebrate <strong>Christmas</strong> in a very unique way.<br />

How would you describe it?<br />

In <strong>the</strong> Ukraine we have presents at New Year, and <strong>the</strong>n <strong>Christmas</strong> is<br />

on <strong>the</strong> 6th and 7th January. The idea of decorating <strong>the</strong> whole <strong>to</strong>wn<br />

a month beforehand, doing up every shop window and putting up<br />

thousands of lights – that's not something we know, even if it has been<br />

starting <strong>to</strong> catch on over <strong>the</strong>re over <strong>the</strong> last few years. When my mo<strong>the</strong>r<br />

visits Dresden at <strong>Christmas</strong> time, she can't get enough of <strong>the</strong> atmosphere.<br />

I gave her a nutcracker as a present. And my fa<strong>the</strong>r really<br />

wants a pyramid now.<br />

You dance Marie, a young girl, who is drawn in<strong>to</strong> a dream world.<br />

Marie is open, she believes in miracles and dreams. You should never<br />

confuse dancers and ac<strong>to</strong>rs with <strong>the</strong> roles that <strong>the</strong>y play. But I must<br />

admit, I think Marie is a little like me.<br />

In what way?<br />

I also believe in <strong>the</strong> power of magic. And <strong>Christmas</strong> is <strong>the</strong> best example<br />

of that, isn't it? You may be religious and <strong>the</strong>n <strong>the</strong> biblical s<strong>to</strong>ry is<br />

<strong>the</strong> most important part of <strong>Christmas</strong> for you. But you also may see<br />

<strong>Christmas</strong> simply as a family celebration. Whatever <strong>Christmas</strong> means<br />

<strong>to</strong> you: if you give it a chance, you will be enchanted. You just have<br />

<strong>to</strong> let it work its magic – and I like being enchanted. But, once when<br />

I was playing <strong>the</strong> "Nutcracker" here in Dresden, it was almost <strong>to</strong>o<br />

much.<br />

What happened?<br />

We were dancing a scene in <strong>the</strong> snow s<strong>to</strong>rm – it's just like a fairy tale<br />

– I just love it! Last year – we must have already done abut 15 performances<br />

of <strong>the</strong> "Nutcracker", in <strong>the</strong> middle of <strong>the</strong> last performance<br />

of <strong>the</strong> season, I suddenly felt <strong>the</strong> tears running down my cheeks. It<br />

wasn't that easy <strong>to</strong> carry on dancing <strong>the</strong>n.<br />

A lot of families come <strong>to</strong> see <strong>the</strong> "Nutcracker". Do you dance differently<br />

for children?<br />

You have <strong>to</strong> act a bit more, but this piece does actually lend itself very<br />

well <strong>to</strong> that. And you mustn't let yourself be distracted if <strong>the</strong> audience<br />

is a bit more animated. But I have known it for a very, very long time:<br />

The first ballet role I ever played, was <strong>the</strong> one I am dancing now: Marie<br />

in <strong>the</strong> "Nutcracker". I was ten years old.<br />

27<br />

<strong>Welcome</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong> <strong>Wonderland</strong>


The secret<br />

of <strong>the</strong> strict<br />

princess<br />

Grandmo<strong>the</strong>r Zeidler<br />

traditionally bakes her<br />

own Christs<strong>to</strong>llen<br />

using a secret recipe<br />

with a dark his<strong>to</strong>ry.<br />

28<br />

Of course, it is a<br />

success. Christine<br />

Zeidler presents <strong>the</strong><br />

first Christs<strong>to</strong>llen she<br />

has ever made in her<br />

own kitchen – she<br />

has always gone <strong>to</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> local bakehouse<br />

before.<br />

It's a good job that Berta Höntzsch was guilty of a minor<br />

<strong>the</strong>ft back in 1902. And it is also a little bit understandable:<br />

Her ladyship, <strong>the</strong> Princess von Reuß from<br />

Castle Hermsdorf was strict and never let <strong>the</strong> staff get<br />

away with anything. Berta was only 18 and was employed<br />

as a maid when she decided <strong>to</strong> take her revenge<br />

one day and secretly crept in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> castle kitchens. She<br />

grabbed a scrap of paper and a pen and jotted down<br />

<strong>the</strong> secret recipe for <strong>the</strong> Christs<strong>to</strong>llen – preserving it for<br />

posterity.<br />

Nowadays Christine Zeidler is measuring <strong>the</strong> ingredients<br />

in her kitchen in Coswig near Dresden, and<br />

says: "A S<strong>to</strong>llen like <strong>the</strong> aris<strong>to</strong>cracy used <strong>to</strong> make –<br />

compared with this, <strong>the</strong> one from my mo<strong>the</strong>r tasted<br />

like stale breadrolls." Christine Zeidler, 77, married <strong>the</strong><br />

grandson of <strong>the</strong> thieving Berta. And she has been baking<br />

<strong>the</strong> S<strong>to</strong>llen with <strong>the</strong> aris<strong>to</strong>cratic recipe since 1954.<br />

Her husband's grandmo<strong>the</strong>r gave it <strong>to</strong> her <strong>the</strong> year she<br />

got married.<br />

Buying a Christs<strong>to</strong>llen at <strong>the</strong> baker – for Christine<br />

Zeidler this is just as alien a concept as buying carvings<br />

"made in China". So over <strong>the</strong> last 60 years she packs all<br />

her ingredients <strong>to</strong>ge<strong>the</strong>r on <strong>the</strong> 2nd or 3rd November<br />

every year, and makes her way <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> baker at <strong>the</strong> bot<strong>to</strong>m<br />

of <strong>the</strong> street. The women (and some men) from<br />

<strong>the</strong> region meet <strong>the</strong>re and work on <strong>the</strong>ir doughs, everyone<br />

with <strong>the</strong>ir own ingredients and <strong>the</strong>ir own recipe.<br />

The kitchens at home were <strong>to</strong>o small; and anyway, only<br />

<strong>the</strong> baker has <strong>the</strong> ideal mixture of moisture and heat in<br />

<strong>the</strong> oven. "We don't gossip... we concentrate hard on<br />

our work", says Christine Zeidler. Baking S<strong>to</strong>llen is serious<br />

business in <strong>the</strong> Dresden region.<br />

And a large-scale project: "I always end up baking 16<br />

<strong>to</strong> 24 pounds for <strong>the</strong> whole family", says Zeidler as she<br />

kneads <strong>the</strong> dough for <strong>the</strong> S<strong>to</strong>llen in her own kitchen –<br />

a one off, especially <strong>to</strong> oblige her guest. She made up<br />

<strong>the</strong> yeasted dough at six in <strong>the</strong> morning and now she<br />

can add <strong>the</strong> raisins, orange and lemon peel, ground almonds<br />

and lots of butter. Then <strong>the</strong> dough has <strong>to</strong> rise<br />

for half an hour. To make sure that <strong>the</strong> baker doesn't<br />

mix up <strong>the</strong> doughs, everyone puts a little metal sign in<strong>to</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> dough with <strong>the</strong> family's name on it.<br />

The baker <strong>the</strong>n shapes <strong>the</strong> loaves; <strong>the</strong>ir shape is<br />

supposed <strong>to</strong> resemble baby Jesus . When <strong>the</strong>y are baked<br />

– "not <strong>to</strong>o dark, more golden brown, a good Striezel<br />

must be nice and moist" – Mrs Zeidler packs her yield<br />

of at least 18 S<strong>to</strong>llen in<strong>to</strong> two washing baskets and carries<br />

<strong>the</strong>m round <strong>to</strong> her son. He puts <strong>the</strong>m on <strong>the</strong> balcony<br />

for a couple of days <strong>to</strong> rest before <strong>the</strong>y are buttered<br />

and given a generous dusting of icing sugar.<br />

Grandmo<strong>the</strong>r Zeidler isn't that far yet in her kitchen<br />

in Coswig – she sends out a quick prayer. "Dear<br />

God. Let it taste good." While <strong>the</strong> S<strong>to</strong>llen is baking<br />

in <strong>the</strong> oven, she tells me about when she was young,<br />

growing up in bombed out Dresden. And she tells me<br />

that during <strong>the</strong> GDR East Germany times, you could<br />

never be quite sure if it really was candied orange peel<br />

in <strong>the</strong> packet, or if it was just "candied <strong>to</strong>ma<strong>to</strong>es", as<br />

some people used <strong>to</strong> joke.<br />

Of course, <strong>the</strong> S<strong>to</strong>llen is not only good, it is excellent,<br />

and <strong>the</strong>re is a wonderful aroma as Mrs Zeidler<br />

takes it out of <strong>the</strong> oven. Must be <strong>the</strong> royal recipe. And<br />

if divine intervention really was necessary, God has<br />

clearly long since forgiven <strong>the</strong> minor <strong>the</strong>ft committed<br />

by Berta Höntzsch.<br />

Pho<strong>to</strong>s: Sebastian Arlt<br />

Saxony


Christs<strong>to</strong>llen<br />

recipe from <strong>the</strong><br />

Princess of ReuSS<br />

(Quantities significantly reduced)<br />

Ingredients<br />

1.2 kg flour<br />

1 sachet yeast<br />

1 cup warm milk<br />

350 g butter<br />

100 g margarine<br />

150 g ghee (clarified butter)<br />

125 g sugar<br />

50 g bitter almonds (available in pharmacies,<br />

health food shops, and also in supermarkets<br />

at <strong>Christmas</strong> time; alternatively<br />

use a few drops of bitter almond extract)<br />

2 sachets of vanilla sugar, mixed with <strong>the</strong><br />

zest of 1 lemon<br />

300 g ground almonds<br />

150 g candied lemon peel and 150 g candied<br />

orange peel<br />

600 g raisins soaked in rum<br />

Icing<br />

125 g melted butter<br />

and lots and lots of icing sugar<br />

29<br />

Striezel: The Dresden<br />

word for Christs<strong>to</strong>llen,<br />

which also gave its name<br />

<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> famous Striezelmarkt<br />

Preparation<br />

Sift <strong>the</strong> flour in<strong>to</strong> a bowl and make a<br />

well in <strong>the</strong> centre. Break in <strong>the</strong> yeast<br />

and pour over <strong>the</strong> lukewarm milk.<br />

Slowly mix in <strong>the</strong> flour with a spoon,<br />

leave <strong>the</strong> dough <strong>to</strong> rest at room temperature<br />

for half an hour.<br />

Then add <strong>the</strong> butter, margarine and<br />

ghee and all o<strong>the</strong>r ingredients except<br />

<strong>the</strong> raisins and kneed <strong>the</strong> dough until<br />

it is springy and elastic. Mix in<br />

<strong>the</strong> raisins and leave <strong>the</strong> dough <strong>to</strong><br />

rest for ano<strong>the</strong>r hour.<br />

Preheat <strong>the</strong> oven <strong>to</strong> 180 degrees Celsius.<br />

Press out <strong>the</strong> dough <strong>to</strong> form an<br />

oblong shape, score down <strong>the</strong> middle<br />

and make little holes in it, with a<br />

knitting needle for example.<br />

Bake for 90 minutes. When a needle<br />

put in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> dough no longer sticks<br />

and <strong>the</strong> crust is golden brown, take<br />

it out of <strong>the</strong> oven.<br />

Leave <strong>to</strong> rest for a while. Prick holes<br />

all over with <strong>the</strong> needle and brush<br />

with <strong>the</strong> melted butter. Generously<br />

sprinkle over icing sugar – it can be a<br />

whole centimetre thick!<br />

<strong>Welcome</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong> <strong>Wonderland</strong>


If you ask <strong>the</strong> locals which is <strong>the</strong> best<br />

<strong>Christmas</strong> market in <strong>the</strong> free state,<br />

you should expect <strong>to</strong> hear a variety<br />

of different answers.<br />

This is because <strong>the</strong>re are almost more<br />

<strong>Christmas</strong> markets in Saxony than<br />

<strong>the</strong>re are needles on a <strong>Christmas</strong><br />

tree. To make <strong>the</strong> choice a little simpler<br />

<strong>the</strong>re are ten suggestions on this<br />

page for a trip <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> region between<br />

Vogtland and Upper Lusatia. Some<br />

are world famous (like <strong>the</strong> one in<br />

Seiffen, here in <strong>the</strong> picture), o<strong>the</strong>rs<br />

are a secret – but <strong>the</strong>y are all leisurely<br />

and cosy.<br />

dresden<br />

579th Striezelmarkt<br />

Bautzen<br />

Wenzelsmarkt<br />

The first <strong>Christmas</strong><br />

meat market was<br />

held here in 1384.<br />

O<strong>the</strong>r stalls were<br />

added over <strong>the</strong> centuries.<br />

Starting on<br />

29 November, <strong>the</strong><br />

"Budyske hodowne<br />

wiki", as it is called<br />

in Sorbian, will be<br />

held for <strong>the</strong> 629th<br />

time.<br />

chemnitz<br />

<strong>Christmas</strong> market<br />

A twelve metre<br />

high pyramid, and<br />

oversized musical<br />

box and a five<br />

metre high candle<br />

arch form <strong>the</strong> centre<br />

of <strong>the</strong> market<br />

in Chemnitz. And<br />

clustered around it<br />

are some 200 stalls,<br />

opening on 29th<br />

November.<br />

If <strong>the</strong>re were a separate<br />

<strong>Christmas</strong><br />

government in Saxony,<br />

this would<br />

be its parliament.<br />

The oldest German<br />

<strong>Christmas</strong> market<br />

is opened on 27th<br />

November, and on<br />

<strong>the</strong> 7th December<br />

<strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong> cake<br />

that gives it its name<br />

will be celebrated<br />

at <strong>the</strong> 20th S<strong>to</strong>llen<br />

festival.<br />

FREIBERG<br />

Christmarkt<br />

Mining traditions<br />

come <strong>to</strong> life starting<br />

on <strong>the</strong> first of advent<br />

on <strong>the</strong> Obermarkt.<br />

Children<br />

can find out about<br />

mining in a workshop,<br />

<strong>the</strong> "smelter"<br />

doesn't have liquid<br />

ore in his kettle any<br />

more – just mulled<br />

wine.<br />

Görlitz<br />

Silesian<br />

Christkindelmarkt<br />

The Christ Child<br />

floats in as <strong>the</strong> bells<br />

chime and choirs<br />

sing on <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>wn<br />

hall steps. From <strong>the</strong><br />

6 December <strong>the</strong>re<br />

is music from Silesia<br />

and Bohemia<br />

sounding out between<br />

<strong>the</strong> stalls.<br />

Königstein<br />

<strong>Christmas</strong> market<br />

at <strong>the</strong> fortress<br />

"Königstein – a<br />

winter fairytale", is<br />

<strong>the</strong> mot<strong>to</strong> on <strong>the</strong><br />

advent weekends on<br />

<strong>the</strong> fortress. The old<br />

ruins are <strong>the</strong> perfect<br />

backdrop for <strong>the</strong><br />

his<strong>to</strong>rical and romantic<br />

market.<br />

Pho<strong>to</strong>: Rainer Weisflog<br />

Saxony


Meissen<br />

Meißner<br />

<strong>Christmas</strong><br />

The High Gothic<br />

<strong>to</strong>wn hall transforms<br />

in<strong>to</strong> an advent<br />

calendar, and<br />

<strong>the</strong> Renaissance<br />

<strong>to</strong>wn houses around<br />

it form a perfect<br />

backdrop for <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>Christmas</strong> market,<br />

which starts on 29<br />

November.<br />

Plauen<br />

<strong>Christmas</strong> market<br />

In Plauen not only<br />

a large number<br />

of stalls open<br />

on 26 November,<br />

but so <strong>to</strong>o does<br />

<strong>the</strong> "Christkindl<br />

Postamt", <strong>the</strong><br />

<strong>Christmas</strong> pos<strong>to</strong>ffice;<br />

open for <strong>the</strong><br />

business of collecting<br />

children's letters<br />

<strong>to</strong> Santa.<br />

RADEBEUL<br />

Family <strong>Christmas</strong><br />

market<br />

Altkötzschenbroda,<br />

Radebeul's most<br />

beautiful village<br />

centre, lights up on<br />

<strong>the</strong> first three advent<br />

weekends: decorated<br />

stalls, a pathway<br />

of light and a<br />

glowing nativity<br />

scene give <strong>the</strong> place<br />

atmosphere.<br />

SEIFFEN<br />

<strong>Christmas</strong> market<br />

The word "market"<br />

would be an understatement:<br />

The hub<br />

of folk art in <strong>the</strong><br />

Ore Mountains becomes<br />

a <strong>Christmas</strong><br />

village on 30th November.<br />

On 14 December<br />

<strong>the</strong> miners<br />

parade through <strong>the</strong><br />

streets.<br />

<strong>Welcome</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong> <strong>Wonderland</strong>


The home of<br />

ChrisTmas.<br />

Dresdner S<strong>to</strong>llen Maiden © ZZDD<br />

Go Tell iT on The mounTains! ChrisTmas in saxony is a feasT for The senses.<br />

From <strong>the</strong> Görlitz Christkindelmarkt <strong>Christmas</strong> market <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Torgau Fairy-tale <strong>Christmas</strong> market<br />

and <strong>the</strong> Dresden Striezel <strong>Christmas</strong> market, we enchant visi<strong>to</strong>rs from all over <strong>the</strong> world.<br />

With regional specialities, such as Pulsnitz gingerbread or <strong>the</strong> traditional German <strong>Christmas</strong><br />

cake, Christs<strong>to</strong>llen, from <strong>the</strong> hands of this year’s Dresden S<strong>to</strong>llen Maiden, Friederike Pohl.<br />

And with living traditions, such as <strong>the</strong> artisan carvings from <strong>the</strong> Ore Mountains. To find out<br />

what else is in s<strong>to</strong>re <strong>to</strong> get you in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Christmas</strong> spirit, visit www.simply-saxony.com

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