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Roman Paulus, nov˘ ‰éfkuchafi hotelu Radisson SAS Alcron, pfii‰el do Alcronu z praÏského hotelu Hilton, kde pÛsobil na pozici Sous Chef restaurace CzecHouse Grill & Rotisserie. Stejnû jako jeho pfiedchÛdce Jifií ·tift má i Roman Paulus za sebou zajímavé zahraniãní zku‰enosti. Svou kariéru odstartoval na poãátku 90. let v Rakousku a v roce 1999 se pfiemístil do známého hotelu Savoy v Lond˘nû. Poté se vypravil na cestu kolem svûta na zaoceánské lodi Queen Elisabeth, na které strávil pÛl roku. Po návratu v roce 2000 jiÏ zaãal pracovat pro hotely Hilton, nejprve ve Vídni a od roku 2002 v Praze. Roman Paulus pro‰el také nûkolika v˘znamn˘mi profesními ‰koleními, napfiíklad The Emirates Academy of Hospitality Management, která je odnoÏí nejznámûj‰í hotelové ‰koly svûta Ecole hôtelière de Lausanne. Byl také na stáÏi v restauracích ocenûn˘ch michelinskou hvûzdou (La Pergola v ¤ímû nebo Maison du Boeuf v Bruselu). V roce 2004 se stal Mlad˘m manaÏerem roku, kterého pravidelnû vyhla‰uje Národní federace hotelÛ a restaurací âR. Vládu nad hotelovou kuchyní pfievzal Roman Paulus Co vás pfiivedlo k oboru gastronomie? Chtûl jsem b˘t kuchafiem uÏ od dûtství. Na fotografii z dûtského ma‰karního bálu, kde mi byly asi tfii roky, uÏ jsem mûl na hlavû kuchafiskou ãepici. Jifií ·tift, mÛj pfiedchÛdce v roli ‰éfkuchafie hotelu Alcron, ãepici nenosil, a tak se teì mnoho lidí diví, Ïe já ji mám pofiád na hlavû. Hlavní dÛvod je ten, Ïe jsem se chtûl stát kuchafiem právû kvÛli té ãepici. A jenom proto, Ïe mám teì nûjakou pozici, si ji nenechám vzít. To, co jsem si pfiedstavoval, se mi vrchovatû splnilo. MÛÏu dûlat, co mû baví, mÛÏu cestovat a nauãit se mnoho nového vãetnû cizích jazykÛ, a navíc jsem za to placen, takÏe je to pro mû ideální profese. Co vám pfiinesl pobyt v zahraniãí? KdyÏ jsem byl ve druhém roãníku oboru kuchafi-ãí‰ník, probûhla sametová revoluce. Brzy po ní dostalo pár uãÀÛ nabídku odjet studovat do Rakouska. PÛvodnû mû nevybrali, ale protoÏe nám v‰em bylo teprve 16 let, mnoho m˘ch spoluÏákÛ, ktefií tam odjeli, se do 14 dnÛ vrátilo zase zpátky do âech. Najednou zvonil telefon, jestli chci je‰tû jet. Tak jsem odjel a vrátil jsem se o 11 let pozdûji. Moc se mi ta práce líbila. Zaãal jsem sbírat kontakty, protoÏe jsem vûdûl, Ïe se nebudu chtít jen tak vracet. Dnes je praÏská gastronomie super, v‰echny moÏnosti a suroviny tu jsou, ale to je aÏ posledních deset let. Dfiív to takové nebylo. TakÏe jsem dostudoval v Rakousku. Ale nemyslím si, Ïe bych se v zahraniãí nauãil nûjak lépe vafiit. DÛleÏitá na tom je zku‰enost, jak ãlovûk poznává cizí kultury a musí se umût postarat sám o sebe. To je obohacující. Ví to kaÏd˘, kdo cestoval. Samozfiejmû to mûlo pro mû také gastronomick˘ pfiínos, ale dobfie vafiit se dnes mÛÏete nauãit i v Praze. Cestování bych ale rozhodnû doporuãoval. Sice to uÏ není finanãnû tak lákavé jako dfiív, ale peníze nemÛÏou b˘t ta hlavní motivace. Ta musí b˘t nûkde jinde. Do jaké míry se drÏíte dan˘ch receptÛ a do jaké míry experimentujete? Je to tak pÛl na pÛl. Caesar salát se mûnit moc nedá, je to celosvûtov˘ fenomén, kter˘ zÛstává stále zhruba stejn˘. Ale urãitû se dá vÏdycky nûco nûkam posouvat. Je to asi jako ve v‰em. VizionáfiÛ bûhá po svûtû jen pár a drtivá vût‰ina z nás pfiebírá to, co vymyslí jiní. Kuchafii, ktefií dnes udávají trendy, jsou jako umûlci v designu – z polévky se koufií, ale je studená, tenk˘ lupínek chutná jako opravdová kreveta. Jsou to bláznivé vûci, ale pomalu se dostávají do normální gastronomie. Urãitû ménû neÏ tito vizionáfii, ale experimentujeme samozfiejmû taky, a snaÏíme se na‰e recepty stále pfiizpÛsobovat nov˘m surovinám a trendÛm, které na trh pfiicházejí. Jedná se o jednoduchou kuchyni z tûch nejlep‰ích surovin, Ïádné sloÏité vafiení. Brambory musejí b˘t brambory a musejí chutnat jako brambory. Lidé chtûjí, aby na talífii na‰li to, co si objednali z lístku. V hotelu Alcron se jiÏ tradiãnû pouÏívají k pfiípravû pokrmÛ biopotraviny. Budete v tom pokraãovat? Samozfiejmû. Budeme se snaÏit nabídku je‰tû roz‰ífiit, napfiíklad v oblasti s˘rÛ. Rádi bychom se také s farmáfii domluvili na odchovu drÛbeÏe, která by byla hned od poãátku urãena pro ná‰ hotel. Produkce biopotravin je u nás ale stra‰nû málo. Pro farmáfie je sice v˘hoda, Ïe v‰echno prodají, ale na druhou stranu je to nenutí vyrábût nûco nového. Je tam omezená ‰kála chutí a produktÛ. Staãí jim vyrábût tvaroh, protoÏe ho v‰echen prodají a víc mléka na dal‰í produkty nemají. Ale snad se to ãasem zmûní, protoÏe poptávka po biopotravinách pravdûpodobnû poroste. Zmûní se se zmûnou ‰éfkuchafie také jídelní lístek? Pomineme-li sezonní vlivy na jídelní lístek, urãitû se v nûm odrazí i zmûna ‰éfkuchafie, protoÏe kaÏd˘ ãlovûk je jin˘ a kaÏd˘ ãlovûk má k práci jin˘ pfiístup. Za deset let provozu hotelu se tu uvafiila vût‰ina pokrmÛ, co se uvafiit dala, takÏe se to v obmûnách bude zase vracet. Jifií ·tift tady odvedl velk˘ kus práce a rozhodnû je na co navazovat. Jsem tu ale jen 14 dní, tak si nechám velká prohlá‰ení na pozdûji. Co nejradûji vafiíte? Baví mû v‰echno, ale dávám pfiednost pfiedkrmÛm, polévkám a dezertÛm. Právû u dezertÛ jsme udûlali zatím nejvût‰í zmûnu. Co nejradûji jíte? Kolikrát uÏ jsem si fiíkal, Ïe si musím na tuto otázku vymyslet nûjakou chytrou odpovûì, ale vÏdycky na to zapomenu. Mnû prostû chutná dobré jídlo. V kuchyni toho ãlovûk moc nesní, protoÏe stále inhaluje vÛni jídla, tak nemá chuÈ jíst. KdyÏ pak vyjde na ulici a zaãne d˘chat ãist˘ vzduch, tak najednou dostane hlad. Doma si vût‰inou vafiím tûstoviny nebo nûco jiného neÏ v práci, aby byla nûjaká zmûna. Chutná mi rÛznorodá strava. Co vy a ryby? ZÛstane Alcron rybí restaurací? KdyÏ jsem byl osloven, abych napsal nûjak˘ recept nebo sestavil nûjaké menu, tak to vÏdy dopadlo tak, Ïe to bylo rybí menu. Nûjak mû ty ryby vÏdycky pfiitahovaly. MoÏná je to tím, Ïe se s nimi dobfie pracuje. Je jich rozmanitá ‰kála nejen v kvalitû a chuti masa, ale i v barvách a tvarech. Dají se z nich udûlat rÛzné vûci, z ryb je moÏné vytváfiet hezãí jídla neÏ z jakéhokoli jiného masa. Je úÏasné, v jaké kvalitû se tu mofiské ryby dnes dají pofiídit. Ryby budou vÏdy hlavní souãástí restaurace Alcron. Máme hosty, ktefií na to byli doteì zvyklí. Restaurace Alcron se zároveÀ vyznaãuje individuálním pfiístupem k hostÛm, jejichÏ pfiáním se snaÏíme vÏdy vyhovût. Pokud pfiijdou s nûjakou vlastní invencí, a chtûjí vyzkou‰et nûco nového, tak jim to mÛÏeme pfiipravit. A kdyÏ si udûláte rezervaci pro deset lidí, tak mÛÏete poÏádat o exkluzivní uzavfiení restaurace. Je to ojedinûl˘ prostor nejen v Praze a v celé na‰í republice, ale moÏná je‰tû dál. Jak˘ zpÛsob pfiípravy ryb byste hostÛm doporuãil? Tfieba po‰írování v olivovém oleji, kde se ryba s olejem a kofiením vakuovû zabalí, a pfiipravuje se pfii teplotû okolo 70 stupÀÛ. Není potom mastná, jen si z oleje a kofiení vezme chuÈ. Je to ‰etrn˘ a velice chutn˘ zpÛsob pfiípravy ryb, kter˘ se hodí tfieba pro kamenáãe nebo lososa, protoÏe ten je sám o sobû pomûrnû tuãn˘, ale kdyÏ se pfiipravuje takhle ‰etrnû a pomalu, ryba je pak neuvûfiitelnû ‰Èavnatá. Jaké konkrétní gastronomické události ãekají na na‰e hosty v letní sezonû? Pfiíjemného letního poãasí vyuÏijeme, abychom mohli hostÛm nabídnout ‰irokou paletu masa, které pro nû pfiipravíme na grilu. Hosté se budou moci v parn˘ch dnech ochladit zmrzlinov˘mi poháry obohacen˘mi o nejrÛznûj‰í druhy letního ovoce. Plánujeme také speciální pivní menu, protoÏe pivo má v gastronomii ‰iroké vyuÏití. Dá se zafiadit od pfiedkrmu pfies polévku a hlavní jídlo aÏ po dezert. Z tmav˘ch piv, která jsou lehce nasládlá, se dá perfektnû udûlat tfieba zmrzlina, která je vynikající v kombinaci s perníkov˘m dezertem. Do jaké míry se na pozici ‰éfkuchafie zmûní náplÀ va‰í práce? Doufám, Ïe mÛj pfiím˘ pobyt v kuchyni nebude pfiíli‰ omezen jin˘mi ãinnostmi. Pofiád si myslím, Ïe jsem kuchafi, kter˘ má vafiit, a budu se snaÏit v rámci moÏností eliminovat kanceláfiskou práci. Jak dalece se mi to ale podafií, to nevím. V dobû, kdy máme plné obû restaurace, tak je samozfiejmû moje místo v kuchyni, a mûlo by to tak zÛstat. Jsem moc rád, Ïe tu pro na‰e hosty pofiádáme lekce vafiení, coÏ mi pomÛÏe nejen udrÏovat kontakt s vafiením, ale navázat ho také pfiímo s na‰imi hosty. Jak se vám v Alcronu líbí? Líbí se mi tady od prvního dne. Jsem rád, Ïe jsem dostal tuto moÏnost, a budu se snaÏit, abych nikoho nezklamal. Mûl jsem sen stát se ‰éfkuchafiem hotelu. Alcron je hotel s vynikajícím jménem a skvûlou tradicí. Doufám, Ïe tu budu moci zuÏitkovat zku‰enosti, které jsem za svou kariéru nasbíral, a Ïe i pro mû bude tato zku‰enost pfiínosem a posunem v kariéfie. Pfied námi je je‰tû mnoho práce, a bude lep‰í, kdyÏ za nás budou mluvit ãiny, ne já sám. 12 13
Roman Paulus Takes Over the Hotel Kitchen Roman Paulus, the chef at the Radisson SAS Alcron, came to the hotel from the Prague Hilton, where he served as sous chef in the CzecHouse Grill & Rotisserie. Like Jifií ·tift, his predecessor at the Alcron, Roman Paulus also brings interesting experience from abroad to the job. He began his career at the beginning of the 1990s in Austria and in 1999 moved to the celebrated Savoy Hotel in London. He then traveled the world while working on the Queen Elizabeth ocean liner for half a year. After his return in 2000 Paulus began working for Hilton hotels, first in Vienna and, beginning in 2002, in Prague. Roman Paulus has graduated from several prestigious professional schools including the Emirates Academy of Hospitality Management, an offshoot of the most famous hotel school in the world, Ecole Hoteliere de Lausanne. He also served internships at restaurants boasting Michelin stars (La Pergola in Rome and Maison du Boeuf in Brussels). In 2004 he was named Young Manager of the Year in the annual contest sponsored by the Czech National Federation of Hotels and Restaurants. How did you end up in the culinary arts? I wanted to be a chef ever since I was child. A photo from a masquerade party when I was about three years old already shows me with a chef’s hat. Jifií ·tift, my predecessor at the Hotel Alcron, didn’t wear a hat and now people are a little surprised to always see me with one on my head. The main reason I wanted to become a chef was that hat and I don’t intend to stop wearing it just because I’ve landed an excellent job. All of my expectations have been generously fulfilled. I am able to do something I enjoy; I can travel and learn a lot of new things, including foreign languages, all while getting paid. So for me, this is an ideal profession. What has working abroad meant for you? The Velvet Revolution arrived when I was in the second year of the cook/waiter class. Soon afterwards several apprentices received offers to study in Austria. I wasn’t originally chosen, but since we were all sixteen at the time, many of my classmates came home after being away for only two weeks. And then the phone rang and they asked me if I wanted to go. So I went and came back eleven years later. I really loved that work. Knowing that I didn’t want to go back to the Czech Republic just for the sake of returning home, I started to collect contacts. Today the food in Prague is fantastic, with all the possibilities and ingredients, but it’s only been that way for the last ten years. It wasn’t like that before, and that’s why I finished my studies in Austria. Nevertheless, I don’t think I learned how to cook better abroad. The important thing is the experience of learning about different cultures and knowing how to take care of yourself. That is the valuable experience gained by anyone who has traveled. Naturally, I gained a lot of culinary skills and knowledge during this time, but today one can learn how to cook well in Prague, too. I would definitely recommend traveling. And while it isn’t as cheap as before, money can’t be one’s main goal. Motivation needs to come from somewhere else. To what degree do you stick to established recipes and to what extent do you experiment? It’s about half and half. It isn’t possible to change a Caesar salad much; this dish is an international phenomenon that remains roughly the same wherever you go. But it’s always possible to expand things a bit. That’s probably true for just about anything. There are only a few true visionaries in the world and the majority of us adopt the thoughts of others. Chefs creating trends today are like designers – the soup is smoking but it’s cold; that flake tastes like real shrimp. They’re wild things, but slowly they become part of standard culinary fare. Though definitely less than these visionaries, I naturally also experiment; I am always trying to adapt our recipes to new ingredients and trends that appear on the market. This concerns simple dishes made from the very best ingredients, not complicated cooking. Potatoes must be potatoes while also tasting like potatoes. People want the food that arrives on their plate to be what they ordered from the menu. The use of organic ingredients is already standard practice at the Hotel Alcron. Do you plan to continue? Of course. And we will try to expand the offer even further to include, for example, cheese. I would also like to make an agreement with poultry producers to raise meat specifically for our hotel. But organic food production in this country is still very limited. While it’s definitely an advantage for farmers to sell everything they grow, it does not force them to try cultivating something new. There is a limited range of products and flavors being grown in this country. It’s enough for them, say, to produce cottage cheese; they sell everything they make and don’t have any extra milk for additional products. But perhaps this will change over time, since the demand for organic goods will probably grow. Will the menu change along with the new chef? If we disregard seasonal influences on the menu, the change in leadership will definitely be reflected in the dishes offered. Each person is different and each has his own approach to work. A majority of dishes that can be cooked have already been tried at the hotel during its ten years in operation, so we will be returning to various modifications of these. Jifií ·tift was an excellent chef here, so there is definitely a tradition to carry on. But I’ve only been here for two weeks, so I’ll leave any grand declarations for later. What do you enjoy cooking? I like cooking everything, but I prefer main courses, soups and desserts. The biggest change we’ve made so far is with desserts. And what do you enjoy eating? I’ve told myself a number of times already that I need to come up with a clever response to that question, but I always forget. I simply like food. You don’t fantasize much working in the kitchen; you’re always surrounded by the aroma of food, so you don’t have much of an appetite. But when you head out onto to the street and start breathing fresh air, that’s when you start to get hungry. At home I usually cook pasta or something different than at work, just for a change. I like to eat different things. And what about fish? Will the Alcron remain a fish restaurant? Whenever I’ve been asked to write a recipe or put together a menu, it’s always turned out to be a fish menu. Somehow fish has always enticed me. Maybe it’s because fish is an ingredient you can do a lot with. Fish comes in a great range of flavors, colors and shapes. You can do a lot of things with it; you can make more attractive dishes with fish than from any other type of meat. And it’s fantastic that excellent quality seafood is available here. Fish will always be a main feature of the Alcron Restaurant menu. We have guests that have grown accustomed to this tradition. The Alcron Restaurant is also known for its individual approach to guests; we always try to satisfy their various wishes. If they request something special and want to try something new, we can prepare it for them. And when you make reservations for ten people you can request having the restaurant closed for your private party. The restaurant setting is unique not only for Prague and the Czech Republic, but perhaps even beyond the borders of the country. What type of fish preparation would you recommend to guests? Perhaps poaching in olive oil; the fish, oil and spices are vacuum sealed and cooked at a temperature around 70 °C. The result is not oily; the fish just takes the flavour from the oil and seasonings. This is an efficient and very tasty method of preparing fish that is excellent for, say, turbot or salmon. These types of fish on their own are relatively fatty and when they are cooked slowly in this manner the fish comes out incredibly juicy. What exactly can restaurant guests look forward to during the summer season? We take advantage of the nice weather to offer our guests a wide selection of grilled meats. On hot days they can cool off with an ice cream sundae with various types of summer fruit. We are also planning a special beer menu, since beer has a great number of applications in food preparation. It can be used in appetizers, soups, main dishes and even desserts. Dark beer, which is slightly sweet, can be used to make an ice cream that goes well with a gingerbread dessert. To what degree does the position of head chef change the work that you do? I hope that the time I spend in the kitchen won’t be overly restricted by other activities. I still believe that I am a cook who should be preparing food and I will try as much as possible to eliminate clerical work. But we’ll see how successful I’ll be at that. When both restaurants are full, my place is naturally in the kitchen, and that’s how it should stay 14 15
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