Handwork and Handicrafts - Waldorf Research Institute
Handwork and Handicrafts - Waldorf Research Institute
Handwork and Handicrafts - Waldorf Research Institute
You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles
YUMPU automatically turns print PDFs into web optimized ePapers that Google loves.
69<br />
It is a complete lack of an imaginative sense for dress. We should not see<br />
anything of an ideal nature in this tendency, but rather a lack of fantasy, of<br />
any sense of beauty. For clothing is actually meant to make the human being<br />
beautiful, <strong>and</strong> to see beauty only in the naked body would mean that the<br />
instinct of our age is a materialistic one. 13<br />
The Art of Clothing in the Past <strong>and</strong> in the Future<br />
Plate 10<br />
Let us consider the development of the art of clothing from yet another point of<br />
view. If we study the clothing in the centuries before <strong>and</strong> after Christ, taking note of the<br />
purely formal element constituted by the lines—that is to say, with special reference to the<br />
horizontal <strong>and</strong> vertical, <strong>and</strong> to symmetry <strong>and</strong> asymmetry—we can be struck by the fact<br />
that the clothing of preChristian times displays no marked symmetry in relation to the<br />
central vertical line of the body, nor does it place any special emphasis on a vertical line<br />
in the dress. We do not mean by this an emphasizing of the vertical direction through an<br />
expressive folding of the material itself—the plissé—which appears on ancient Babylonian<br />
signet cylinders (Plate 10, fig. 6) from the time of the Ur Dynasty (about 2300 bc)—or<br />
in single cases, such as the Attic female statuette in the Berlin Museum. Nor do we mean<br />
the central vertical line determined by the closing of a garment, or by some other practical<br />
consideration, as with the Ethiopians, whose garments are in any case too asymmetrical<br />
towards the upper part. 14<br />
For present purposes we are concerned with an emphasizing of the vertical by<br />
means of some kind of decoration, for example ribbons sewn on, or embroidery; just as the<br />
horizontal can be indicated by the sewing on of narrow ruffles, as we can see on the ancient<br />
Babylonian signet cylinders (figs. 1, 3, 6) <strong>and</strong> in other early works of art (figs. 2, 4, 5, 7, 8,<br />
9). It is interesting in this connection to observe how the forms in architecture <strong>and</strong> clothing<br />
are related; for example, the step pyramids or step towers 15 <strong>and</strong> the flounced skirt. Compare<br />
also the headgear of the Cretan figure (Plate 10, fig. 2) with the Tower of Samarra (fig. 2a),<br />
which was built in the spirit of this ancient period. This Cretan figure also illustrates the<br />
tendency among the ancient people to emphasize “roundness” in clothing in imitation of the<br />
rounded forms of the human body.<br />
Strict symmetry of right <strong>and</strong> left, from the neck down to the feet, appears in<br />
antiquity only in individual cases; for example, in the above-mentioned Attic figure, or in<br />
the “Hera of Aegion in Achaia.” Asymmetry is the general rule, as we also find it is in the<br />
clothing of the ancient Egyptians, the Greeks <strong>and</strong> the Romans.<br />
Before we consider in more detail the garments of the Greeks <strong>and</strong> Romans, we should<br />
like to quote a remark of Steiner’s concerning the fundamental difference between Greek <strong>and</strong><br />
Roman dress: