H - University of Illinois

DRESSING OUR STOUT GIRL BECOMINGLY
Long. Straight Lines Add to Her Height and Decrease Her Width
: W ILLA W . K R u M
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.314 Broad Street, Providence. R. L
Gentlemen: Please send me a copy of your
vance styles.
book of ad-
' Nam..............
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Addioss........ :•; .„
question of clothes for the
THE stout young girl is, literally speaking,
a big one and from the letters I
have received since I started this
series of Clothes for 'the Growing Girl I am
quite sure that at least half of our girls are
stout. That's whyi this month, my page
is just for them.
The stout girl has many advantages over
the slender girl. In the first place she fills
out her clothes better; next, her size gives
her a certain dignity that makes for a better
carriage and to top.aii,- she usually has
a jolly comfortable disposition that makes
her loved by everyone. Just that alone
makes up for any disadvantage her extra
size may cause in the matter of clothes.
wears a ladies' size 40, altered of course to
suit her height and the length of her arm.
These alterations are what I wish to explain
to you for most likely you will have
to use a ladies' pattern too and alter it just
as I have altered these. It is really a very
simple thing to do and with the diagrams
I am sure you will not have a bit of trouble.
Hold the front of the pattern up to you
to get the proper length. These two
dresses are hung eleven inches from the
floor and the white skirt, twelve inches.
Add four or five inches for a hem and
then cut away the extra length so it won't
be in the way. If you are both stout and
tall you may need all the length as.you
wish a nice wide hem. ,
Both the one-piece patterns are only a
yard and a half wide at the lower edge so
you will have to add at least half a yard as
all the new skirts and dresses are two yards
or more wide. Pin the pattern on the material
, then measure out five inches from
the lower edge and mark. With a yard
stick connect the armhole with this mark.
This will add twenty inches to the width of
to keep the gathers across the back where
they belong) at a slightly-raised waist line,
with just the least suggestion of drawing
in—not tight, you understand, for we must
keep the straight line under the arms if our
model is to look her best.
The material is a medium blue Jap Crepe
but this pattern would make up .well in any
of the heavier cotton suitings, such as cotton
pongee, cotton poplin, gabardine,
pique or Indian head. . The trimming is a
Grecian border in the old-fashioned chain
stitch, worked in heavy mercerized floss.
It is very effective and quickly done. You
can probably get these transfer designs in
your own stores but if not, I will be glad to
get them for you. They are twenty cents
each and should you send to me for them,
please tell me on what colored materia}
you are going to use them:
Pattern No. 9426 is another very goodone-piece
style for a stout girl as the
V-shaped vest of all-over embroidery adds
to her height. It is a slip-over style, but
as the vest is snapped in on one side, it is
easy to get into. The material is a narrow
blue-and-white striped- suiting, with
plain blue to match the blue stripe used to
face the revers and for the bias facing at
the neck and the wrists. I also used the
plain blue for the pockets. Use a patch
pocket if you wishf they are much easier
to make.
The belt is the shoe-strmg kind, one
inch wide and two yards and a quarter
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6 Dept.M,43L«tltlaSt.,Phila.,Pa. /
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FARMER'S WIFE Pattern No. 9529 of Long
Russian Blouse
Plain materials, medium, or narrow
stripes and subdued colors are the.proper
thing for this young lady. Figured material,
unless the figure is very tiny, wide
stripes and vivid colors will make her look
twice her size and that is just what she
must plan to avoid.
Her salvation lies in the long trim lines
of the tailored type of garment.
She must avoid stiff , wiry materials that
stand away from the figure. She must also
avoid any suggestion of tightness, either
through the bust or the hips, as tight
clothes make one look much larger. While
the dress should not hang in folds it should
be loose enough to hang in graceful lines.
This is also true of sleeves, for a tight sleeve
increases apparent size of the arm.
The stout girl should not wear cross
lines of any kind in the shape of tucks,
ruffles or yokes, either on skirt or waist.
Verticle lines of trimming will add to her
height and also make her appear much
more slender. Large pockets, especially
at the side of the skirt or dress (the standout
hip effect) are bad, and so is a skirt in
which the upper half is of one material and
the lower of another. Another thing she
must avoid is the too-short skirt. That
does not mean that she must wear a skirt
as long as her grandmother'sbutan inch or
so in extra length will do wonders to her
height! There is not a reason in the world
why our stout girl should not look her best
every hour of the day!
Under no circumstances should the stout
girl wear a stiff corset. The soft corded
waist, especially designed for the young
girl gives all the support necessary, without
any undue pressure. If she does not
like the waists with theshoulder.straps, the
same styles come without them, either in
the clasp or button front.
Our little model is just thirteen and she
FARMER'S WIKB Pattern No. 942S is a Pretty
Slip-Over
the dress, which will make it about two
yards when finished. Thfs method can be
used to widen skirts too.
The sleeves are just two inches too long
for our little model and that means that
we must take out two inches. To do this,
fold a half-inch tuckthrough the ' paper pattern,
half way between the elbow and the
upper edge and another half way between
the elbow and the wrist. In the dartfitted
sleeve be careful that the folds in the
lower parts are exactly the same distance
from the wrist. For the angel or flowing
sleeve a tuck is not necessary. Take the
two inches off the lower edge. However,
if you want them quite large, take the extra
length out in an inch tuck through the
elbow. Pin or paste the tucks in before
cutting the material.
One-piece styles are especially good for
the stout girl and No. 9199 has a dartshaped
tuck over each shoulder which
gives extra fulness through the bust without
any bulky gathers. These darts are a
great help in preventing a one-piece dress
from "hiking" up in front on anyone who
is very high or full through the bust. The
closing at the side helps to give the slender
effect and so do the pointed pockets. You
will have to cut these yourself as there are
no pockets with the pattern.. Use a plain
straight belt, two inches wide, or a very
narrow belt, two yards and a quarter long,
looped over at the left side. Adjust these
belts (snap them on at the underarm seam;
Blue Jap Crepe Made by FARMER s WIFE
Pattern No. 9199
long. You will notice that none of these
dresses have a collar, though a collar comes
with each pattern. For a short plump
neck nothing is prettier than the collarless
neck, so always use it for this type of figure.
The long Russian Blouse is always good
for the stout girl and this is one of our latest
patterns (No. 9529). It fastens with
snaps on each shoulder, which makes it
much easier to put on than the regulation
slip-over blouse. The material is tan voile
(40 inches wide) and it requires two yards
and a half in the second length. For a tall
stout girl, the third lengt h would be better.
A narrow bias binding finishes the neck.
The embroidery is a conventionalized circle
done in a medium shade of blue wool.
The color effect is charming and as I used
the darning or running stitch, it only took
a couple of hours to do it. The long soft
belt (two inches wide, double of the material
and two widths of the voile) is gathered
at the ends and finished with a little
ball of the blue wool.
The blouse is worn with a skirt of white
(CONTINUED ON PAOB 330)