General Sewing Instructions - Leena's.com

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General sewing instructions Copyright ©1998−2000 Leena Lähteenmäki, Järvenpää NEW! Latest update in these instructions May 24th, 2001 Third sewing technique for a shirt sleeve cuff placket: A placket with overlap (shirt placket) Click here Preshrinking the fabric When you buy your fabric, ask how much it will shrink when washed. In all cases, when the fabric is washable and when you are not sure that the fabric won't shrink, it is safe to wash and iron it before cutting. Don't forget to preshrink lining as well. HINT : If you do not want to preshrink the fabric you can check the amount the fabric shrinks horizontally and vertically by wetting and ironing a small piece of it and resize your patterns accordingly using the PatternMaker editing tools. To get instructions of how to calculate the needed scaling factor, refer to the sewing instructions for women's lingerie. Scaling patterns is a frequent task for garments sewn of elastic fabrics. Cutting the pattern pieces Cut pattern pieces on folded fabric, right side of the fabric folded inwards. Make the necessary marks on the fabric with chalk or pencil. If the fabric is plaid, striped or checkered, align the hem lines at the same point on the repeating pattern. For sleeves, the repeating pattern should match where the bottom of the armscye and bottom of sleeve cap meet. Vertical centerline of sleeve should be placed at a vertical stripe or at center of a plaid square. Jacket, blouse and dress front center should be placed the same way. Transfer notch marks from your pattern to the fabric by cutting snips (depth 0.5 mm /1/8") into seam allowances. When joining garment pieces, place corresponding notch marks in the two pieces together. HINT: If the fabric is slippery spread out newspaper between the fabric and the table. It will keep the fabric in place when you cut the garment pieces from it. Be sure not to let the printing ink from the newspaper to stain your fabric. If this would be the case use another paper. HINT : Do not use pins to attach the patterns to the fabric. Use Scotch tape in stead. Position the tape pieces half on the fabric and half on the patterns where you want to and cut through the tapes. Normally you do not have to remove the tape pieces after cutting, the pieces which are on the patterns do not hurt them and the pieces on the fabric are outside the garment pieces. Interfacing Cut and iron interfacing to under collars, facings, waist bands, slit facings, blouse and shirt button extensions and sleeve cuffs. Using interfacing at jacket's hem seam allowance makes get a neat hem. If you sew a patch pocket and don't line it, attach interfacing to it also. Always trim interfacing to eliminate the seam allowances Cutting the lining Cut lining along with garment patterns without space for facings (but remember to add seam allowances) and hem seam allowances. Do not cut lining for collars. Lining fabric usually is not as elastic as garment fabric, General sewing instructions
PatternMaker 2 so cut it with about 1/8 inch (0.3 cm) wider seam allowances than for the garment pieces. Basting Use the longest possible machine stitches for basting. It is quick and the stitches can easily be removed. HINT : In some cases you can use two−sided fusible interfacing for basting purposes. If you need to keep two garment pieces on top of each other and prevent them from shifting when you sew − like pocket on the garment, put small pieces of two−sided fusible interfacing under the pocket piece and iron the pocket lightly. After you have sewn the pocket in place, remove the interfacing between the pocket and the garment. Finishing the garment You will get the best result if you always press seams and darts as you sew. First iron seams or darts flat without turning them to either direction. Then press them towards center, side seam towards front. Two−piece sleeve seams are both pressed towards shoulder mark. Use a steam iron. If you press seams from right side of the fabric, use pressing cloth if necessary. Edgestitching gives a well−finished look to garment, but only if it is straight and even. Long stitches of 1/4 inch (4−5 mm) look best in edgestitching. Sew edgestitching only after you have ironed the seam. To tame facings at garment edges use technique understitching. It prevents the seamlines from showing on the outside of the garment and keep the seam allowances in the desired position. Refer to explanations of used terminology at the end of these instructions. About ease Patterns cannot be drawn exactly according to your body measurements because you could not move in the finished garment. Also fashion determines how much ease there is in certain garments. Jackets, dresses and blouses, for example, are rather tight−fitting and body hugging nowadays. A few years ago, jackets used to be boxy and straight. The amount of ease calculated for PatternMaker patterns is moderate, according to prevailing fashion. Ease for basic patterns (Basic bodice and Pants) is predetermined and cannot be changed. They are close−fitting garments with only the needed fitting ease added. If you want to add or decrease ease to these garments, cut body or pants pieces vertically in two and move parts apart from each other or on top of each other to get the desired result. There is an exercises of how to do this in Exercise 9 in the Tutorial, also available on this website. Don't add or decrease anything to side, armscye or sleeve seams. This is also the technique to be used, if you want to add ease to a jacket to change it to an overcoat. Start from maximum ease version jacket. Pants and skirt can be enlarged also by adding space to (only) side seams. The basic bodice is to be used as a basis for your own designs and you have to add the needed ease for fitting and style yourself. Basic bodice is not to be used as is for any garment. It will fit like "a second skin." The ladies' shirt also has a predetermined ease which cannot be changed. It is a garment similar to a men's dress shirt with dropped sleeve caps. If you want to sew a more fitted shirt, use blouse macro and leave darts unsewn. Other garment patterns have three ease choices: Minimum, Normal and Maximum You should always make your first garment with normal ease. This is good for most cases. It contains enough wearing ease as well as the ease needed for garment design. Don't add anything to your body measurements − the program calculates the needed eases. Garment patterns drawn with PatternMaker macros are ready to be sewn as they are. General sewing instructions
Page 1: PatternMaker General sewing instruc
Page 5 and 6: PatternMaker 4 Here is an easy way
Page 7 and 8: PatternMaker 6 If you want to creat
Page 9 and 10: PatternMaker 8 the across the botto
Page 11 and 12: PatternMaker 10 Stitch button exten
Page 13 and 14: PatternMaker 12 Iron interfacing on
Page 15 and 16: PatternMaker 14 Shirt placket is fi
Page 17 and 18: PatternMaker 16 Sew lining to the t
Page 19 and 20: PatternMaker 18 Pocket with welt Se
Page 21 and 22: PatternMaker 20 Side pockets Cut 2
Page 23 and 24: PatternMaker 22 Understitching is g
Page 25 and 26: PatternMaker 24 waist band accordin
Page 27 and 28: PatternMaker 26 Continue according
Page 29 and 30: PatternMaker 28 Easestitch sleeve c
Page 31 and 32: Sewing instructions for Rain Cape I
Page 33 and 34: PatternMaker 32 Attaching the hood
Page 35 and 36: PatternMaker Sewing projects Women'
Page 37 and 38: PatternMaker 36 hem seam allowance
Page 39 and 40: PatternMaker 38 General sewing inst
Page 41 and 42: PatternMaker 40 Measuring Waist cir
Page 43 and 44: PatternMaker 42 Pants, embedded abd
Page 45 and 46: PatternMaker 44 Sew pieces of hook
Page 47 and 48: PatternMaker 46 on top of the front
Page 49 and 50: PatternMaker 48 Sew and overlock th
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PatternMaker 52 General sewing inst
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PatternMaker 54 Cut away button ext
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PatternMaker 56 Sewing the tunic Hi
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PatternMaker 58 Read instructions i
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PatternMaker 60 Sewing lingerie To
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PatternMaker 62 • lace, embroider
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PatternMaker 64 Preparing the fabri
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PatternMaker 66 If the elastic is a
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PatternMaker 68 Cut the bottom piec
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PatternMaker 70 Sewing a bodysuit /
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PatternMaker 72 This pattern can al
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PatternMaker 74 SewSassy Clotilde N
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PatternMaker 76 If you do not have
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PatternMaker 78 Compare the test re
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PatternMaker 80 Applying lace to ed
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PatternMaker 82 Apply lace insert a
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PatternMaker 84 Notions As closures
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PatternMaker 86 Sew the midriff pie
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PatternMaker 88 Other ideas to use
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PatternMaker 90 together. Match raw
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PatternMaker 92 Place the lace wron
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PatternMaker 94 Pin shoulder straps
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PatternMaker 96 If the lace is very
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PatternMaker Sewing projects Sewing
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PatternMaker 100 To make the two−
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PatternMaker 102 I used a serger to
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PatternMaker 104 Sewing projects Pa
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PatternMaker 106 Sew buttonholes. S
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PatternMaker 108 right sides of mat
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PatternMaker 110 The following uses
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Sewing instructions for children's
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PatternMaker 114 Iron interfacing t
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PatternMaker 116 For pants with ela
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PatternMaker 118 Sew back center se
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PatternMaker Sewing projects Baby's
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Pattern collection for newborn babi
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PatternMaker 124 Sleepsuit 1. Sew t
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PatternMaker 126 Cut the diaper cov
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