General Sewing Instructions - Leena's.com

PatternMaker 

General sewing instructions.............................................................................................................................1 

Sewing instructions for women's garments.................................................................................................23 

Sewing instructions for Rain Cape................................................................................................................30 

PatternMaker Sewing projects Women's topcoat........................................................................................34 

Sewing instructions for maternity and nursing garments .........................................................................39 

PatternMaker Sewing projects: Jacket with removable sleeves ...............................................................50 

PatternMaker Sewing projects Two tunics....................................................................................................53 

Sewing instructions for women's lingerie.....................................................................................................59 

PatternMaker Sewing projects Women's panties........................................................................................75 

PatternMaker Sewing projects Bra without underwire................................................................................83 

PatternMaker Sewing projects Women's Camisole.....................................................................................89 

PatternMaker Sewing projects Sewing pajamas..........................................................................................98 

Sewing instructions for men's garments ...................................................................................................105 

Sewing instructions for children's garments .............................................................................................112 

PatternMaker Sewing projects Baby's tailcoat ..........................................................................................120 

Pattern collection for newborn babies........................................................................................................122 

1

General sewing instructions 

Copyright ©1998−2000 Leena Lähteenmäki, Järvenpää 

NEW! 

Latest update in these instructions 

May 24th, 2001 

Third sewing technique for a shirt sleeve cuff placket: 

A placket with overlap (shirt placket) 

Click here 

Preshrinking the fabric 

When you buy your fabric, ask how much it will shrink when washed. In all cases, when the fabric is 

washable and when you are not sure that the fabric won't shrink, it is safe to wash and iron it before cutting. 

Don't forget to preshrink lining as well. 

HINT : If you do not want to preshrink the fabric you can check the amount the fabric shrinks 

horizontally and vertically by wetting and ironing a small piece of it and resize your patterns 

accordingly using the PatternMaker editing tools. 

To get instructions of how to calculate the needed scaling factor, refer to the sewing 

instructions for women's lingerie. Scaling patterns is a frequent task for garments sewn of 

elastic fabrics. 

Cutting the pattern pieces 

Cut pattern pieces on folded fabric, right side of the fabric folded inwards. Make the necessary marks on the 

fabric with chalk or pencil. 

If the fabric is plaid, striped or checkered, align the hem lines at the same point on the repeating pattern. For 

sleeves, the repeating pattern should match where the bottom of the armscye and bottom of sleeve cap 

meet. Vertical centerline of sleeve should be placed at a vertical stripe or at center of a plaid square. Jacket, 

blouse and dress front center should be placed the same way. 

Transfer notch marks from your pattern to the fabric by cutting snips (depth 0.5 mm /1/8") into seam 

allowances. When joining garment pieces, place corresponding notch marks in the two pieces together. 

HINT: If the fabric is slippery spread out newspaper between the fabric and the table. It will 

keep the fabric in place when you cut the garment pieces from it. Be sure not to let the 

printing ink from the newspaper to stain your fabric. If this would be the case use another 

paper. 

HINT : Do not use pins to attach the patterns to the fabric. Use Scotch tape in stead. Position 

the tape pieces half on the fabric and half on the patterns where you want to and cut through 

the tapes. Normally you do not have to remove the tape pieces after cutting, the pieces 

which are on the patterns do not hurt them and the pieces on the fabric are outside the 

garment pieces. 

Interfacing 

Cut and iron interfacing to under collars, facings, waist bands, slit facings, blouse and shirt button extensions 

and sleeve cuffs. Using interfacing at jacket's hem seam allowance makes get a neat hem. 

If you sew a patch pocket and don't line it, attach interfacing to it also. 

Always trim interfacing to eliminate the seam allowances 

Cutting the lining 

Cut lining along with garment patterns without space for facings (but remember to add seam allowances) and 

hem seam allowances. Do not cut lining for collars. Lining fabric usually is not as elastic as garment fabric, 

General sewing instructions

PatternMaker 2 

so cut it with about 1/8 inch (0.3 cm) wider seam allowances than for the garment pieces. 

Basting 

Use the longest possible machine stitches for basting. It is quick and the stitches can easily be removed. 

HINT : In some cases you can use two−sided fusible interfacing for basting purposes. If you 

need to keep two garment pieces on top of each other and prevent them from shifting when 

you sew − like pocket on the garment, put small pieces of two−sided fusible interfacing under 

the pocket piece and iron the pocket lightly. After you have sewn the pocket in place, remove 

the interfacing between the pocket and the garment. 

Finishing the garment 

You will get the best result if you always press seams and darts as you sew. First iron seams or darts flat 

without turning them to either direction. Then press them towards center, side seam towards front. 

Two−piece sleeve seams are both pressed towards shoulder mark. Use a steam iron. If you press seams 

from right side of the fabric, use pressing cloth if necessary. 

Edgestitching gives a well−finished look to garment, but only if it is straight and even. Long stitches of 1/4 

inch (4−5 mm) look best in edgestitching. Sew edgestitching only after you have ironed the seam. 

To tame facings at garment edges use technique understitching. It prevents the seamlines from showing on 

the outside of the garment and keep the seam allowances in the desired position. Refer to explanations of 

used terminology at the end of these instructions. 

About ease 

Patterns cannot be drawn exactly according to your body measurements because you could not move in the 

finished garment. Also fashion determines how much ease there is in certain garments. Jackets, dresses 

and blouses, for example, are rather tight−fitting and body hugging nowadays. A few years ago, jackets 

used to be boxy and straight. 

The amount of ease calculated for PatternMaker patterns is moderate, according to prevailing fashion. 

Ease for basic patterns (Basic bodice and Pants) is predetermined and cannot be changed. They are 

close−fitting garments with only the needed fitting ease added. 

If you want to add or decrease ease to these garments, cut body or pants pieces vertically in two and move 

parts apart from each other or on top of each other to get the desired result. There is an exercises of how to 

do this in Exercise 9 in the Tutorial, also available on this website. Don't add or decrease anything to side, 

armscye or sleeve seams. This is also the technique to be used, if you want to add ease to a jacket to 

change it to an overcoat. Start from maximum ease version jacket. Pants and skirt can be enlarged also by 

adding space to (only) side seams. 

The basic bodice is to be used as a basis for your own designs and you have to add the needed ease for 

fitting and style yourself. Basic bodice is not to be used as is for any garment. It will fit like "a second 

skin." 

The ladies' shirt also has a predetermined ease which cannot be changed. It is a garment similar to a men's 

dress shirt with dropped sleeve caps. If you want to sew a more fitted shirt, use blouse macro and leave 

darts unsewn. 

Other garment patterns have three ease choices: Minimum, Normal and Maximum 

You should always make your first garment with normal ease. This is good for most cases. It contains 

enough wearing ease as well as the ease needed for garment design. Don't add anything to your body 

measurements − the program calculates the needed eases. Garment patterns drawn with PatternMaker 

macros are ready to be sewn as they are. 



Here are some ideas of how to use other than normal ease 

Minimum ease: 

• garments of very thin fabrics 

• close−fitting garments and evening dresses 

• garments made of elastic fabrics 

• closely fitting sleeveless dresses 

• underwear 

Maximum ease: 

• garments of thick fabrics 

• jackets of thick wool fabrics for outdoors use 

• garments for leisure use 

• loose−fitting garments like (tunics, T−shirts, sweaters etc.) outer garments to be worn over other 

garments 

You might want your garments to have more ease or less ease than normally used. Once you are familiar 

with the patterns the macros create, you can use maximum or minimum according to your wishes. By 

testing different eases, you will learn to use them for many purposes. 

You should not change your actual body measurements in order to increase or decrease ease. It won't 

work. You don't know all the measurements which have to be changed or cannot change them as the 

program calculates some measurements for you. 

Ease chart 

In the following table you'll find the ease applied to women's basic macros. 

Ease is normally described by giving it at bust circumference. There is also ease at other places such as at 

neck circumference, back width, armscye depth, shoulder and sleeve length etc. These eases are not given 

in the table below but the differences correspond to bust ease. 

• Basic bodice: Bust +3.25in/8 cm 

• Skirt: Normal hip +1.5in/+4cm, Minimum hip +0.75in/+2 cm, Maximum hip +2.5in/+6 

• Pants: Waist +0 cm , Abdomen and hip +1.5in/4 cm 

• Pullover: Minimum, bust −0.75in/2 cm, Normal, bust +0in/0 cm, Maximum, bust +3.25in/8 cm 

• Blouse: Minimum, bust +4in/10 cm, Normal, bust +4.75in/12 cm, Maximum, bust +5.5in/14 cm 

• Shirt: Bust +6.25in/16 cm 

• Jacket: Minimum, bust +4.75in/12 cm, Normal, bust +5.5in/14 cm, Maximum, bust +6.25in/16 cm 

• Dress: Minimum, bust +4in/10 cm, Normal, bust +7.75in/12 cm, Maximum, bust +5.5in/14 cm 

Shoulder pads 

Space for shoulder pads is included in most of the patterns. Pullover is designed without shoulder pads. 

HINT : If you want to add shoulder pads to garments which do not have space for them, raise 

shoulder tip at front and back 0.5−1 cm / 1/4−1/2" and lengthen shoulder with same 

amount. Also raise the top of the sleeve cap with same amount you raised the shoulder tip. 

Bound edge 



Here is an easy way to sew a professional looking bound edges to neck openings, 

sleeve cuffs and hems of casual garments as well as to lingerie and outdoor garments. 

In the example illustrated here the edging is sewn to the neck opening of a sweater 

Cut a strip of fabric 4 times as wide as the desired finished width of the edging and approximately as long as 

the edge to which it is to be connected. In the picture the finished width of the edging is 1 cm. So the width of 

the fabric strip in this case is 4 cm. 

Fold the fabric strip lengthwise in two, wrong side inside, and iron. Sew it to the 

wrong side of the neck opening raw edges matching. Stretch the edging a bit when 

sewing. 

Start sewing 5 cm from the CB of the neck opening and leave another 1 cm of edging free (for the CB seam 

of the edging). Stop sewing 5 cm from the CB of the neckline and leave 1 cm for seam allowance. Sew the 

CB seam of the edging. Fold the edging in two at the CB of the neck as elsewhere and sew the rest of the 

connection seam. 

Trim seam allowance to half. Open the seam well by iron the 

edging and the seam allowances away from each other. Turn 

the edging around the edge to the right side of the garment 

along the stitch line. Be sure not to leave the stitch line visible 

at the right side of the garment. Edgestitch along the folded 

edge. Sew slowly. Only even edgings with straight stitch lines 

are neat. 

If you find it difficult to sew such a narrow edging − especially if your fabric is thick − you can try cutting the 

fabric strip a bit wider, for instance 6 times of the desired finished width of the edging (in the example 

garment it would be 6 cm. It is easier to turn a wider edging around the edge and the connection seam can 

be left well inside of the garment. In the sample garment the fabric strip for the edging at the neck opening is 

4 cm and at the sleeve cuffs 6 cm. 

Attaching zipper to pants or skirt 

Sew seam to the point where zipper begins and continue zipper's full length with basting (picture 1). Press 

the seam open. Remove basting stitches. Mark front (or back) centerline with basting. 

Fold one seam allowance of zipper placket at about 1/4 inch (0.5 cm) distance from front (or back) centerline) 

(picture 2a). Sew one zipper edge under the extended seam allowance (picture 2b). 



Close zipper placket temporarily with pins on right side of garment (picture 3). 

On wrong side pin other zipper edge flat on seam allowance (picture 4). Make certain that the zipper is 

straight and lies flat at an even distance from edges of seam allowance. 

Remove pins from right side. Sew from wrong side through all thicknesses, across bottom (picture 4) and up 

the pinned edge of zipper near zipper teeth. 

If you want to, you can sew a second row of stitches one presser foot's distance from the first one picture 5). 

If you are making jeans or other pants that need to be very strong, strengthen bottom of zipper placket with 

tight zigzag (barrack) on right side. 



If you want to create a LESS NOTICEABLE ZIPPER PLACKET, sew zipper directly onto garment seam, 

placing zipper upside down on a basted seam on wrong side of garment. The distance between the seam 

and the zipper stitching is the width of the presser foot. Basting is removed after sewing. This kind of a 

zipper is good for a dress back seam and is also widely used in skirts. 

Attaching waistband to skirt or pants 

Overlock edges of waistband. Fold waistband lengthwise, right side in and press. Unfold waistband and 

sew its one horizontal edge to garment, right sides together (Picture 1). Space for button and buttonhole 

extends beyond center front mark at each end of the band. Garment's waist should always be slightly larger 

than waistband. Easestitch garment waist to fit waistband. 

Fold waistband lengthwise, right side in, and sew across one end (buttonhole end) and the distance for 

buttonhole (distance between arrows in Picture 2). Trim corners and turn waistband right side out. 

Press seam allowance upwards (it will be inside waistband when finished). Turn the buttonhole end of the 

waist band right side out. Fold seam allowance of the other end of the waistband in about 5 cm / 2" from end 

(Picture 3). Leave rest of waistband seam allowance flat. Stitch on ditch on the right side of garment. Sew 

buttonhole starting from CB mark of the pattern. Sew on button. 

Sewing back slit to skirt or dress 



Overlock back center seam. Baste seam for zipper (Picture 1a), sew back center seam between zipper and 

slit, and baste folding line for slit (Picture 1b). Press seam open. Cut seam allowance diagonally at upper end 

of slit (Picture 2). 

Fold vertical seam allowance of one half of slit inside, and edgestitch (Picture 3). Press flat (Picture 4). Fold 

other half of slit (along right side of back centerline) inwards and sew across bottom at hemline (Picture 5). 

Turn slit out to its correct position. Strengthen top of slit with horizontal or diagonal stitch line thorough all 

thicknesses on right side (Picture 6). 

Cut an opening for the back slit at the back hem of the lining as in picture 7. 

Sewing a button placket 

Iron interfacing to vertical half of the wrong side of the button placket. 

Turn the front edge seam allowance of the placket of the right front piece in and baste ( Picture 1a ). 

Overlock the front and the bottom edges of the placket of the left front piece. 

Put garment front pieces on top of each other right sides together and sew the front CF seam from hem to 

where the button placket begins Picture 1b ). 

Fold the button placket of the right front piece along the fold line marked on the patterns right side in and sew 



the across the bottom edge from the fold to the center front . Cut seam allowance diagonally. ( Picture 2 ) 

Pin the top edge of the button placket. Fold the placket of the left front piece along the fold line right side 

inside. Pin the top of the placket. 

Iron interfacing to the wrong side of the neck facing and sew the shoulder 

seams of the facing. 

Place the neck facing to the neck opening on top of the button placket. Sew the neck facing to the neck 

opening with distance of seam allowance from the edge. Cut clips to the round parts of the seam allowances. 

Understitch through the facing and the seam allowance. 

Turn button placket right side out and sew along the basted placket seam allowance. Place the button placket 

of the right front piece on top of the button placket of the left front piece (the left front piece is inside the 

garment). Sew across the bottom of the button placket on the right side of the garment. ( Picture 3 ) 

Fasten buttons and sew button holes. 

Sewing a shirt collar with stand 

Fold the seam allowances of the button extensions to wrong side and iron. Fold button plackets right side 

against right side along the fold line marked in the patterns and sew along bottom ends. 



Turn button extensions right side out. Iron and sew along folded seam allowances (Picture 1). 

Iron interfacing to both collar and collar stand pieces (Picture 2a). 

Sew round the collar, cut corners of seam allowances and turn the collar right side out. Iron and edgestitch 

along the outer edge of the collar (Picture 2b). 

Fold seam allowance of one collar stand to the wrong side, baste and iron. Sandwich collar between the 

collar stand pieces raw edges matching and sew through all thicknesses (Picture 3). Cut the corners of the 

seam allowance and turn the collar to its right position (Picture 4). Iron. 

Place the right side of the collar stand (with the unfolded seam allowance) against the wrong side of the 

blouse neck and attach the collar to the blouse neck opening. Turn seam allowances inside the collar. Pin the 

other edge of the collar stand (with the folded seam allowance) to its final position and sew near edge of the 

folded seam allowance. 

Sew buttons and buttonholes on the CF−line of the button extension and the collar stand. 

Another technique 

Another way to attach the collar is described in the drawing to the left (Picture 5). 

Fold the button extension of the blouse right side against right side. Unlike in the instructions above, do not 

fold the seam allowance of the collar stand. Sandwich collar between the folded button extension and the 

blouse . Sew the collar stand to the neck opening of the blouse. Overlock the seam allowance with seamster 

or with zigzag. 



Stitch button extensions across bottom edges. Turn button extensions and collar out and sew along folded 

seam allowance edge. 

This technique of sewing the collar to the neck opening is not as neat as when sewing the seam allowance 

inside the seam. Usually the inside of the garment neck is, however, not in sight, so it does not matter. 

Sew buttons and buttonholes on the CF−line of the button extension and the collar stand. 

A third technique worth while trying 

Fold and sew button extension according to above instructions. 

Prepare the collar and sandwich it inside the collar stand pieces as above. Leave raw edges of collar stand 

flat. Place right side of the collar stand to the wrong side of the neckline raw edges even. Sew along the 

neckline (Picture 6a). 

Fold collar stand pieces right side against right side encasing collar and neckline edge inside. Sew along raw 

edges for distance of about 2.5−5 cm / 1−2" from the end of the collar stand (Picture 6b). 

Trim seam allowance to reduce bulk at the end of the collar stand. Then turn the collar and the collar stand 

right side out. Fold the rest of the seam allowance of the collar stand in and topstitch along the outer edge of 

the collar stand. 

Sewing and attaching a blouse collar 

For the collar, cut 2 pieces of fabric and 1 piece of interfacing. Iron interfacing to under collar. The under 

collar piece is on the inside, hidden by the upper piece, when the garment is completed. 

Fold button placket inwards along fold line and sew along bottom and top ends from fold line to front center. 

Cut seam allowances diagonally at point where seam ends, so that button placket can be turned right side 

out. 

Turn bottom seam allowance of under collar inside, baste and iron (Picture, a). Place collar pieces with right 

sides together and sew along edges (Picture, b).Trim seam allowances and cut corners. Turn right side 

out. Sew raw edge of upper collar to shell's neck from front center to front center, collar's right side against 

blouse's wring side. Press seam allowance upwards and pin basted edge of under collar on top of previous 

seam. Sew. Edgestitch if wanted. 

Sewing and attaching a hood 



The hood piece in the pattern makes one half of the hood. Cut 4 pieces, 2 of garment fabric and 2 of lining 

fabric. The lining pieces can also be of same or similar fabric, if desired. 

The openings for the drawstring are sewn like small buttonholes at right side of hood 3/4 inch (2 cm) from 

front edge and 1 1/2 inches (4 cm) from bottom edge (Picture 1a ). To strengthen button holes, iron 

interfacing to wrong side of fabric before sewing button holes. 

Sew both outer pieces together, right sides together (Picture 1b). Do the same with the lining pieces. Snip 

the seam allowance along the curved section at back of hood at intervals of about 3/4 inch or 2 cm (Picture 

2). 

Turn neck seam allowance of hood lining inwards and baste. Place lining and hood right sides together and 

sew along front edges (Picture 3 ). Turn hood right side out. 

Sew hood to neck of shell,right sides together, from center front to center front. Press seam upwards and 

pin the basted edge of hood lining onto seam. Sew near edge. 

Sew a 3/4 inch (2 cm) wide tube for strings at front edge (Picture 4). 

Sewing and attaching cuffs to sleeves 



Iron interfacing on sleeve cuffs. Fold seam allowance to the wrong side at one long edge of the cuff. Baste 

and iron. Fold the cuff pieces horizontally into two. Sew along short edges. Cut corners of the seam 

allowances and turn the cuffs right sides out. Iron. 

Fold in seam allowance of one long edge of sleeve cuff and baste (Picture 1). 

Fold cuffs horizontally in two, right sides inside, and sew 

along ends (Picture 2 ). Note that seam allowance of one 

edge has been folded in, but the other is unfolded, so the 

edges don't meet. Cut seam allowance diagonally at 

corners and turn cuffs right side out. 

Cut slits at ends of sleeves and overlock edges. Turn seam allowances inside and edgestitch on right side 

(Picture 3). Fold slit with right side inside and sew a small triangle at the bottom of the slit (Picture 4). 

Fold ease of sleeve ends into soft pleats near split. Sew raw edges of cuffs to sleeve ends with right side 

of cuff against wrong side of sleeve. Turn seam allowance inside cuffs and press. Pin basted edge of cuff 

onto previous seam and edgestitch from right side. 

Sew buttonholes. Sew on buttons. 

Another technique: sewing a bound slit 

Bound slit is best suited to sleeve hems but it can also be used to sew a slit to front or back neck opening, or 

to side slits of tunic hem. 



Mark the height of the slit to the wrong side of the garment with pencil (Picture 1 a and b). Machine baste 

along the lines to transfer the markings to the right side of the garment. 

Cut two bias strips of fabric three times as wide as you want the binding strips of the slit to be. Place them on 

both sides of the machine basted line right side under to the right side of the garment 0.3 cm / 1/8" from the 

line (Picture 2). 

Sew 0.7 cm / 1/4" from the basted vertical line (Picture 2, c−d and e−f). 

Cut an opening along the basted line (Picture 3g) and diagonally at the corners (Picture 3h and i). Be careful 

not to cut the binding strips. 

Press the binding strips and the seam allowances toward the slit. Turn 1/3 of the long edges of the binding 

strips in and wrap the bindings around the raw edges of the slit (Picture 4). 

Fold back the wrong side of the garment to expose the triangle at the end of the slit opening and sew across 

the end to the slit catching both binding strips (Picture 5j−k). 

Do final ironing and attach cuffs or collar or whatever you need to attach to this place of your garment. 

Third sewing technique: cuff placket with overlap (shirt placket) 



Shirt placket is finished with two separate pieces of fabric to create a wider lap. 

First construct the underlap. Cut a 8 x 10 cm piece of fabric (picture 1). Fold the piece into two as in the 

picture, right side out. Fold one vertical seam allowance (1 cm) in and press (picture 2). 

Then make the overlap. Cut 8 x 10 cm piece fabric (picture 3). Fold the piece into two wrong side out. Sew 

along top as in picture 4. Trim seam allowance and turn overlap right side out. Fold one vertical seam 

allowance (1 cm) in and press. 

Mark placket on the right side of the sleeve cuff 

(picture 6). 



Pin underlap on the left side of marked placket and overlap on the right side of the placket as in picture 7. 

Edges meet at the center of the placket. Sew along the marked vertical sides of the placket, stop at corners. 

Cut along the center of the placket and vertically at the top corners as in picture 8. Fold and press seam 

allowances inside underlap and overlap and the top triangular piece to the wrong side of the sleeve upwards. 

Fold laps to right position, underlap to the wrong 

side of the sleeve cuff and overlap to the right 

side of the sleeve cuff and edgestitch laps from 

the right side (picture 9). Topstitch the top part of 

the overlap through all thicknesses 

Sewing pockets 

There are darts at the upper part of the pocket bag and lining of pants. There are similar darts at the pants' 

waist. 

HINT : If wanted, the darts can be moved from the top to the bottom of the pocket pieces. Cut the pocket 

patterns vertically from the dart apex to and across the bottom edge of the pocket pieces ( picture, a) and 

pivot the pieces to close the darts at the top edge of the pockets (picture, b) and to open them at the bottom 

edge of the pockets. 

Patch pockets 

Cut the pocket pieces according to Picture 1: Pocket height is marked in the picture. Add 5 cm/2" of height to 

the pocket pattern for self−facing and iron interfacing to it as in the picture. This part of the pocket top will be 

turned inside when the pocket is complete. If the fabric is very thin or elastic, iron interfacing to wrong side of 

whole pocket. Always trim interfacing to eliminate the seam allowance to avoid bulk. 

Cut pocket lining 10cm/4" lower than the pocket piece. Cut the lining pieces also otherwise slightly smaller 

(0.3cm / 1/8") than the pocket piece so that the seams will not show when the pockets are complete. When 

sewing the lining to the pocket seams, slightly stretch the lining. 



Sew lining to the top of the pocket piece as in picture 2 leaving an 

opening for turning the pocket (picture 2 a−b). Fold pocket and lining 

right sides together raw edges matching and sew along sides and 

bottom. Notch seam allowances at intervals of about 1cm / 1/2" at the 

rounded curves of the pocket and trim corners diagonally. Turn the 

pocket right side out and slip stitch the opening closed. 

Topstitch pocket mouth at a distance of 4cm / 1 1/2" from the top edge (Picture 3a). 

Attach the pockets to the garment. 

HINT : Machine baste the pockets in place diagonally from corner to corner (Picture 3b). When sewing the 

pocket to the garment push the pocket away from the seam and stitch along the edges of the lining. That way 

the seam does not show on the right side when the pocket has been sewn to the garment. 

Pocket with flap 

NOTE: The method used here to attach flap, welt and buttonhole pockets is called windowpane 

opening method. It is one of the easiest ways to sew this kind of pockets successfully. 

Cut 4 pieces of pocket flaps. Iron interfacing to two of them. Sew flaps two and two 

together right sides inside along sides and bottom edges. Notch seam allowances at 

intervals of about 1 cm / 1/2 " at the bottom curves. Turn flaps right sides out, open 

seams well, iron and edgestitch along sides and bottom. 



Mark the the pocket opening to the wrong side of the garment with pen. Machine baste along the marked 

lines to transfer the marking to the right side of the garment (Picture 2 a). Iron a 5cm/2" wide strip of 

interfacing to the wrong side of the garment at the pocket opening line. 

Place pocket flap upside down raw edges along the pocket opening line (Picture 2 b). 

Cut 2 copies of pocket bag (garment fabric) and 2 copies of pocket linings (lining 

fabric) 10cm/4" wider than the pocket opening and two times as high as you want 

to pocket to be. Pin pocket bag upwards right side against right side on the pocket 

mouth line and the lining downwards right side against on top of the pocket flap on 

the pocket mouth as in picture 3 and sew a rectangle around the pocket mouth 

line (Picture 3 a). 

Cut through center of rectangle and diagonally at the ends (Picture 3 b). Cut only the garment fabric, do not 

cut the flap. 

Turn the pocket bag, the lining and the flap through the opening to the wrong side of the garment and finger 

press the seams well. On wrong side of the garment Understitch the seams of the opening, first the long 

sides and then the short sides. 

Press the rectangle area from the wrong side. Turn the pocket bag downwards edges matching the lining. 

Sew and overlock sides and bottom of the pocket bag. 

Turn the flap to its correct position and topstitch at width of presser foot from the top of the flap (Picture 4). 



Pocket with welt 

Sew pocket with welt according to instructions for pocket with flap. Place the welt, however, upside down 

from the pocket opening line downwards (Picture 1a) and turn it upwards when ready (Picture 2 ). 

Buttonhole pockets (Bound pockets) 

Cut two pieces of pocket bags from garment fabric and two pieces of pocket linings from lining fabric. Mark 

the pocket opening to the wrong side of the garment with pen. 

Pin pocket lining on the garment (Picture 1a). Sew a 

rectangle around the opening line on the wrong side. Cut 

through center of rectangle and diagonally at the ends 

(Picture 1b ). 

Turn the lining through the opening to the wrong side of the garment and finger press the seams well. On 

wrong side of the garment understitch the seams of the opening, first the long sides and then the short sides 

(Picture 2). 

Cut 4 pieces of pocket binding strips. Iron interfacing to the wrong sides of them. Fold them lengthwise in two 

(Picture 3a) and zigzag two and two together like in the picture (Picture 3b). 

Place the binding strips under the pocket 

opening rectangle and edge stitch along the 

edges of the rectangle. (Picture 3c). Press the 

rectangle and the binding strips from wrong 

side. 

HINT : Try fuse−basting to keep the pocket binding strips in place when you sew around the rectangle. 

Fuse−basting is explained above . 



Place pocket bag under the pocket lining raw edges matching. Sew and overlock bottom edges of the pocket 

(Picture 4a).Pin sides (Picture 4a) and center front (Picture 4c) of the pocket. These will be attached to side 

and zipper seams later. Unravel the zigzag stitches from the pocket binding strings and do the final pressing. 

HINT : There is a handy device for sewing buttonhole (double welt) pockets. Clotilde's sewing notions catalog 

offers a Double Welt Pocket Maker. It is fairly simple to use and with it it's easy to sew narrow and even welts 

for double welt pocket. I bought mine in a Fabric shop in Seattle − the name of which I have forgotten − but 

as far as I remember it correctly the price for this device was about US$ 30. 

The device is sold with clear instructions. 

Hip pockets 

Cut the pocket corner off the pants front piece (Picture 1) Cut two pieces of pocket bags and two pieces of 

pocket linings. Place pocket lining on the right side of the front piece pocket mouths matching. Sew along 

pocket mouth(Picture 2), turn pocket lining to the wrong side of the garment (Picture 3) and iron. 

Edgestitch pocket mouth (Picture 4). Place pocket bag under pocket lining raw edges matching. Sew and 

overlock the bottom edges of the pockets (Picture 5a). Pin side (Picture 4b) and CF−edges (Picture 5c) of the 

pocket to the garment. These edges will be attached to garment seams when sewn. 



Side pockets 

Cut 2 copies of pocket bags from garment fabric and 2 copies of pocket lining from lining fabric pieces for 

pockets. 

Place pocket lining piece on the garment, right sides together. Sew along pocket mouth (Picture 1a−b). 

Cut seam allowance at the ends of pocket mouth. Turn pocket lining to the wrong side of the garment and 

topstitch pocket mouth Picture 2). 

Place pocket bag piece under the pocket lining raw edges matching (Picture 3). Sew and overlock along the 

curved outer edges. Pocket back piece is attached to side seam when sides are sewn. Use care not to 

catch the finished edge of pocket mouth in the side seam. 

Press the pocket toward the front of the garment and side seams toward the back. If you want to create a 

very durable pocket mouth for this kind o a pocket, bartack both ends of the pocket opening. 

Terminology used 



Edgestitching 

Edgestitching is used to finish the garment edges, such as edges of collars, jacket lapels, shirt button 

plackets etc. Change a straight stitch for edgestitching foot to your sewing machine and sew near the folded 

edge or seamline. Use 3−4 mm stitch length. Long stitch length looks better than short. If you do not have an 

edgestitch foot, use a zigzag foot and reset the needle so it is on the extreme right−hand side. 

Topstitching 

Topstitching is used to strengthening or embellishing garments details such as pocket mouths, facings, 

princess seams etc.. 

HINT: If you want the topstitching to have a padded or quilted look, try sandwiching a layer of 

flannel or fleece between the garment and the facing. 

HINT : In some couture sewing books it is recommended that the top stitching is completed 

early in the construction process i.e. before facings and linings are applied. In that way there 

is less bulk and fewer layers of fabric to control. This is worth trying. 

HINT: If you want to emphasize the lines of topstitching or edgestitching, sew with two 

threads in the needle or with twin−needle. 

Understitching 

Understitching is a single line of stitching to seam allowance close to the seam line preventing facings and 

linings from rolling to the outside of a garment. 

After having sewn the facing or the lining to your garment, grade and clip the seam allowances with the 

garment's allowance wider than the facing's, then press the allowances to lie flat toward the lining or the 

facing. On the facing straight−stitch close to the seamline through all thicknesses. Use your fingertips to feel 

along the seamline in front of the presser foot to ensure that the seam allowances lie flat and to one side. 



Understitching is good idea to be applied when sewing a window pane pocket openings. Understitching the 

pocket facing makes the opening crisp and accurate. 

Easestitching 

Easestitching is used in seams where the edges to be joined are not equally long. This kind of a situation is 

e.g. easing the sleeve cap to fit to the armscye. Sew easestitching with distance of seam allowance from the 

edge i.e. along the seam line. Sew easestitching using the 4−5 mm stitch length i.e. long but not the longest 

possible. You notice that the fabric is automatically eased as you sew. You can intensify the easing by 

tightening the strain of the upper thread of the sewing machine. 

Usually the waist band is somewhat shorter than the waist of the garment. Sew easestitching to the garment 

waist before attaching the waist band to it. Sew the easestitching with distance of seam allowance from the 

edge i.e. along the seam line. If the garment has a lining, sew the easestitching through the garment and the 

lining. 

Easestitching can also be used to join seams which curve to different directions e.g. the princess seams of 

the bodice. Sew easestitching to one of the seams with distance of seam allowance from the edge. Place the 

pieces together and sew along the easestitch. 

Easestitching can also make it easier to attach a collar to the neck opening of the garment. Sew easestitching 

with distance of seam allowance from the edge to the neck opening of the garment. Place the collar and the 

garment together and sew along the easestitch. 

General sewing instructions Ladies' garments Ladies'_lingerie 

Maternity and nursing garments Men's garments Children's garments 

Sewing projects 

Scandinavian expertice 

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Sewing instructions for women's garments 


SEWING SKIRT 

Cut waist band on fold. 

Sew front and back darts (Picture 1a).Iron them towards center front and back. Sew 

center back seam between the zipper and the back slit. Baste seams of zipper and 

back placket. Sew back slit according to general sewing instructions (Picture 2b) 

attach zipper according to general sewing instructions (Picture 2c). Sew and 

overlock side seams (Picture 2d). 

Fold seam allowances of the slit of the lining inwards and edgestitch (Picture 3e). 

Overlock back seam. Baste back seam from top to where the end of the zipper will be, 

and sew from there to slit hole (Picture3f). Press back seam open and remove 

zipper−basting stitches. Edgestitch zipper slit. 

Fold waist darts of the lining to form soft pleats and pin (Picture 3g). Sew and 

overlock side seams of the lining. Fold seam allowance for hem inside twice and 

sew. Make sure that the lining will be about an inch (a couple of centimeters) shorter 

than the skirt when both are done. 

Place lining inside skirt and pin at waist, wrong side against wrong side and side seams 

matching. Easestitch waist with normal seam allowance, using your machine's longest 

stitches to attach lining to skirt. Tighten or loosen waist easestitching so that 

waistband fits to skirt waist. The result should have no gathers or wrinkles. Attach 

Sewing instructions for women's garments


waist band according to general sewing instructions . Fold skirt hem allowance and 

blindstitch with machine or by hand. Sew buttonhole and attach button. 

SEWING PANTS 

Cut waist band on fold. 

Sew front and back darts (Picture 1a). If you are sewing a pleated version, fold front 

pleats soft and pin or baste them at top. Sew and overlock back center seam with 

elastic stitching, if possible (Picture 1b). Overlock front center seam and edges of 

zipper placket (Picture 1a) Sew front center seam from inside seam to where zipper 

placket begins (Picture 1d). attach zipper according to general sewing instructions . 

Cut front piece pocket corner off, don't forget to add seam allowance. Put a reinforcing 

strip of non−elastic fabric (not included in pattern) into the seam to prevent pocket 

mouth from stretching during use. Place under pocket (lining) along slacks front 

piece's pocket line, right sides together, and sew. Turn under pocket (lining) inside 

and edgestitch pocket mouth (Picture 1e). Sew another row of stitches at presser 

foot's width from the first row of stitches. 

Place pocket corner pieces under pocket lining with round edges matching (Picture 2f 

). Sew and overlock them together, leaving pocket mouth open (Picture 2g ). 

Place front and back sections of slacks on top of each other, right sides together. Sew 

and overlock side seams (Picture 3h ). Sew and overlock leg seams from cuff to cuff 

(Picture 3i). 

attach waistband according to general sewing instructions . Fold cuff seam 

allowances inwards and blindstitch with machine or by hand. 

If you want to put a lining in the slacks, cut lining pieces using the slacks patterns and 

sew them without pockets. attach lining to slacks at waistband seam when attaching 

waistband. Handsew lining at edges of zipper placket. You can also line only the 

front pieces of slacks. Or sew facing to front pieces only at knee for a distance of 

about 10 cm up and down from knee. attach lining to seams when sewing the seams. 

SEWING PULLOVER 



Sew and overlock shoulder and side seams (Picture 1). Iron interfacing to front and 

back neck facings. Sew and overlock shoulder seams of neck facing (Picture 2). 

Place neck facing on pullover, neck right sides together, and sew with normal seam 

allowance (Picture 3). Notch seam allowances at intervals of about 3/4 inch. Turn 

facing inside pullover and press. Edgestitch from right side, or sew only through 

garment and facing seam allowances near fold line. attach facing to shoulder seams 

by hand with small stitches. 

Easestitch sleeve caps along seam line. Sew and overlock sleeve seams (Picture 4). 

Turn sleeve right side out and pullover wrong side out. Place sleeve inside pullover 

(right sides together) so that sleeve shoulder mark matches with pullover shoulder 

seam and sleeve seam matches with pullover side seam (Picture 5). Pull ends of 

ease stitching along sleeve cap to adjust ease. Sew along ease stitching and overlock 

sleeve to pullover. If there tends to be too much ease in sleeve cap (some fabrics 

tolerate more ease than others do), place sleeve lower at armpit. There should be no 

wrinkles at cap seams when done. 

Fold hem and sleeve cuff allowances inside and sew with twin needle on right side of 

pullover (Picture 6). Cut excess fabric from inside near stitch line. 

SEWING DRESS 

Sew and overlock vertical seams at front and back pieces. Overlock back center 

seam (use at least 3/4 inch or 2 cm seam allowance to leave room to attach zipper). 

Sew back seam from neck to zipper, baste for length of zipper, sew seam to back slit 

and baste along length of slit. 

Sew slit according to general sewing instructions . attach invisible zipper according to 

general sewing instructions . 



Continue according to instructions for sewing blouse. Blindstitch hem and sleeve 

ends, however, with machine or by hand. 

SEWING BLOUSE 

Fold front edge's seam allowances (1 cm) inwards and baste (Picture 1). Fold again, 

but now with right side inside along button extension fold line and stitch button 

extension across top and bottom edges (Picture 2). 

If you are going to sew convertible collar to blouse, stitch top end from fold only to 

center front, and cut seam allowance diagonally there. Turn button extension to the 

wrong side of the blouse and sew along folded edge of seam allowance on wrong side. 

Sew and overlock front dividing seams (Picture 3). Sew back shoulder and waist darts 

(Picture 4). Sew and overlock shoulder seams. 

attach collar according to general sewing instructions . Sew convertible collar 

beginning from front center, and shirt collar with band beginning from edge of button 

extension (fold). 

Sew and overlock side seams. 

Cut sleeve slits at sleeve ends. Overlock slit edges, turn inwards and edgestitch. 

Continue to attach the sleeve cuffs according to general sewing instructions 

Easestitch sleeve cap at distance of normal seam allowance and continue sewing and 

attaching the sleeves according to sewing instructions of pullover above. Sew and 

attach sleeve cuffs according to general sewing instructions . 

Fold hem allowance twice and sew. Sew buttonholes and buttons on center front and 

sleeve cuffs. 

SEWING SHIRT 

(see picture for blouse) Sew according to sewing instructions for blouse. Shirt, 

however, does not have front dividing seams or back darts. 

SEWING JACKET 

Iron fusible interfacing to under collar, front and back facings, sleeve cap and button 

plackets, upper part of the front and back pieces, hem seam allowance and pocket 

flaps (Picture 1a). 



Cut upper collar 0.5 cm larger at 

outer edge than under collar. This 

will help collar to turn in to its 

proper position. 

Use the pattern pieces as a guide in cutting lining pieces. Note that as in the illustration 

(Picture 4a), you need to add a pleat extension to the back lining. This extension is 

not given in the pattern. 

Sew and overlock front princess seams (Picture 1b). Sew pockets to front pieces 

according your styling preferences (see general instructions ). Sew and overlock all 

other vertical seams of the shell ( Picture 1c ). Edgestitch if desired. 

Sew upper and under collar together at edges, right sides together, 

(Picture 2a). Trim seams and cut seam allowance at corners. Turn 

collar right side out and press. Edgestitch if desired. Sew collar to 

jacket's neck collar with center back matching jacket back center 

seam and collar edges matching notch marks at lapels (Picture 2b). 



Easestitch sleeve cap at distance of normal seam allowance with the 

longest stitch of your sewing machine (Picture 3a). Sew sleeve under 

seams of the (Picture 3b). This is the seam that will go between arm 

and body when the jacket is worn. Sew sleeve upper seams from 

top to where button placket begins (Picture 3c), and from there 

around placket at distance of normal seam allowance (Picture 3c). 

Baste placket fold line (Picture 3d). Fold sleeve cuffs' seam allowance 

inside and sew with invisible stitches. If you are sure that the length of 

the sleeves is correct, sew buttons to sleeve button plackets through 

all thicknesses of material. 

Turn sleeve right side out and jacket wrong side out. Place sleeve inside jacket (right 

side against right side) so that sleeve shoulder mark matches with jacket shoulder 

seam and seam between the two sleeve pieces matches with jacket side seam. Pull on 

easestitching in sleeve cap to adjust cap ease. Sew and overlock sleeve cap to 

jacket. If there tends to be too much ease in sleeve cap (some fabrics tolerate more 

ease than others do), place sleeve lower at armpit. There should be as much ease as 

possible but no wrinkles at cap seams when done. 

To get instructions of how to use a facing at sleeve head to make a perfectly shaped 

sleeve cap, please read exercise 24 in the tutorial. 

Cut extra width to upper part of lining's back (Picture 4a). 

Sew and overlock all vertical seams of the lining right sides together (Picture 5a). 

Zigzag back neck facing to the neck of back lining with lining's wrong side against 

linings right side (Picture 5b). Fold hem inside twice and sew (Picture 5c). 

Attach jacket's front facing to lining's front edges, right sides together (Picture 5d ) 

Overlock. 

Sew and attach sleeves to lining as you did to jacket. 



To join jacket and lining, place them on top of each other, 

right sides together. Put collar between jacket and lining. 

• 

Start at point marked with number 1 and sew continuously as follows, refer to Picture 6: 

• 

cross front facing hem (2), 

• 

along one front edge (3), 

• 

along lapel edges (4) and 

• 

front neckline edges (5), 

• 

along back neckline (6) 

• 

and then the same way along the other front edge (7−8) and 

• 

finally across other front facing hem. Stop at point marked with number 9. 

Cut seam allowance at starting point of lapels and neck seam at intervals of 3/4 inch (2 

cm). Cut corners diagonally. Turn lining inside jacket. Open seams and press well. 

Edgestitch if desired. 

Sew buttonholes. Sew on buttons. Do final pressing. 



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Sewing instructions for Rain Cape 

In the table are the sizes available for the rain cape patterns. Sizes are on different 

layers of the drawing. Close the sizes (layers) you do not need, arrange patterns for 

printing and print. 

Buying macros and pattern collections 

Download/install the rain cape patterns. 

To install you need a password. You get the password when you buy the pattern 

collection. The price of the pattern collection is 12,61 (US$ 12) 

Men XS−S M−L XL−2XL 3XL−4XL 

WomenS−M L−XL 2XL−3XL 4XL−5XL 

Chest 

89−98 

(35"−381/2"") 97−112 

(38"−44") 

117−132 

(46"−52") 

137−142 

(54"−56") 

Waist 

66−76 

(26"−30") 

81−97 

(32"−38") 

102−117 

(40"−46") 

122−137 

(48"−54") 

Hips 

94−103 

(37"−401/2"") 99−112 

(39"−44") 

114−127 

(45"−50") 

130−142 

51"−56") 

General 

The top part of the cape is double. The inner parts of the front and back tops (= lining) 

are made from fleece or flannel or other breathing fabric. The yoke on top is made from 

raincoat fabric or other watertight fabric. It is attached to the hood's neck seam and to 

the armscyes and is left open at hem The meaning of this construction is to secure 

ventilation in the garment. 

If you want to make an impressive and colorful cape, cut the pieces from fabrics of 

different colors, plain or patterned. 

Seam allowances and seams 

Add 1,5 cm (5/8") wide seam allowances to the seams which are topstitched and 1 cm 

(3/8") wide seam allowances to other seams. Add 5 cm (2") wide seam allowances to 

the bottom edges of the yoke. If the fabric is raveling, finish the seams with zigzag or 

with serger. Topstitch the seams from the right side of the garment at a distance of the 

presser foot from the edge. Use 0,5−0,6 cm (1/8−1/4") stitch length. If you want to 

make the seams decorative, use thread of contrasting color. 

Sewing instructions for Rain Cape


Drawstrings 

Read hints of how to make drawstrings from the 

lingerie shoulder straps. 

Pockets 

sewing instructions for the 

On the front piece there is a big patch pocket and two flap pockets. You do not need to 

sew both, if you don't want to. 

Add 3−4 cm (1 1/2") wide seam allowance to the vertical edges of the patch pocket and 

1 cm (3/8") wide seam allowances to the other edges. Iron the seam allowances of the 

vertical and the bottom edges of the patch pocket to the wrong side and topstitch at top 

for pocket mouths according to the picture. Prepare pocket flaps. 

Sew the pocket to the front piece along the vertical and the bottom edges. Sandwich 

pocket flaps to their places. Leave the pocket mouths and the top edge of the pocket 

open. Sandwich the pocket top edge between the front lining and the front piece when 

sewing this seam. 

Read sewing instructions for flap pockets in the general sewing instructions. Hide 

openings for flap pocket mouths under the flaps. 

SEWING ORDER 

Hood 

1. Attach the hood center piece to the hood side pieces. 

Topstitch the seams. Sew buttonholes to the front edges of the 

hood according to the marks in the patterns for drawstrings. 

2. Cut the hood peak in two copies from the garment fabric 

with seam allowances and one copy of cardboard or plastic 

without seam allowance. Sew the peaks together right side 

against right side. Turn the peak right side out, put the cardboard/plastic piece inside it 

and topstitch the front edge of the peak. Baste the inner edge of the peak. Baste the 

peak to the center of the hood front right side against right side. 



Attaching the hood to the yoke 

3. Attach the hood to the neck opening 

of the yoke right side against right side. If 

you want a neat seam, cover it with bias 

tape. 

4. Fold the hem seam allowance of the yoke to the wrong side and topstitch from the 

right side of the yoke. 

Attaching the hood facing to the lining 

5. Sew the top seam of the hood facing right side against right side. 

6. Sew the bottom edge of the hood facing to the neck opening of the front lining. 

7. Fold the seam allowance of the front lining in and baste. 

8. Pin the front lining and the hood facing attached to it under the yoke and the hood 

attached to it right side against right side and CF−edges matching. Leave the zipper 

edges between the CF edges. Sew along the CF−edges and around the hood front 

edge. Turn the hood and the yoke right side out. Topstitch the hood front edge and the 

zipper edges. Sew another line of stitches to form a casing for the drawstrings leaving 

the buttonholes in the middle of the casing. 

9. Sew the pockets to the front piece. 

10. Sew the bottom edge of the lining on top of the 

front piece (under the yoke in the picture). 

11. Attach the back lining to the back piece (under 

the yoke in the picture). 

12. Sew the shoulder seams of the lining (under the 

yoke in the picture). 

13. Sew the rest of the neck opening of the lining to 

the yoke neck seam. 

Bottom edges of front and back pieces 

14. Finish the bottom edges of the front and the back pieces with separate strips of 

fabric. Read instructions in the general sewing instructions. 

Sleeves 

15. Baste the armscye edges of the front and the back lining to the armscye edges of 



the yoke. 

16. Attach the sleeves to the armscyes. Topstitch seams. Sew sleeve seams. Sew 

sleeve cuff seams. Fold them in two wrong side in and sew them to the sleeve ends 

right side against right side. Topstitch the seam. 

17. Cut 2 pieces of elastic, each 10 cm (4") long. Sew them as loops in the sleeve cuff 

seam according to the picture. You can slip your thumbs in these loops to keep your 

sleeves from rolling up for example when you ride a bicycle. Topstitch cuff seams. Fold 

half of the cuffs on top of the right side of the sleeves. 

Snaps 

18. Hit no−sew−snaps to the armpit of the cape front and back pieces according to the 

picture. 

19. Prepare the tamps and attach them to the back piece, middle way from the snaps 

and the hem as in the picture. Hit no−sew−snaps to their outer ends and corresponding 

counter snaps to the front piece. With the tamps you can secure that the cape hem 

does not open in wind. 






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PatternMaker Sewing projects 

Women's topcoat 


Sewing instruction pages: General | Ladies' garments | Ladies'_lingerie | 

Maternity and nursing garments | Men's garments | Children's garments 

Use PatternMaker ladies' coat/robe macro to draft patterns to this coat. In the 

macro there are options for two kinds of hoods, normal and integrated. See 

picture. 

Iron interfacing to coat's front and back facings, 

under collar and pocket flaps. It is also good to 

iron interfacing to coat's hem seam allowance. 

When cutting the collar pieces, cut upper collar 

about 1/4 inch (1/2 cm) bigger at the neck 

edge. This forces the collar to turn down to its 

correct position when it is done. 

Only vertical coat seams need to be overlocked. Collar, shoulder and sleeve 

seams do not need to be overlocked as they will be inside the lining. Press all 

seams after sewing and overlocking them. 

Cut a seam at the linings CB and add extra width to the seam, to form a 

pleat. 

Sew pocket flaps together along the outer edge right side to right side. 

(Picture 1A). Clip seam allowances at corners. Turn flaps right side out and 

iron. Edgestitch at a distance of 3/4" (1.5 cm) from the edges. 

Sew pockets to the front pieces. Mark the pocket mouth line on the front 

pattern pieces by machine basting. Place pocket flap on the line raw edges 

towards side seam. Place one pocket bag on top of the flap and the other 

opposite it on the pocket mouth line. (Picture 1B). 

Sew a rectangle around the pocket mouth line, sewing through all thicknesses. 

(Picture 1C). Cut along the line and diagonally at the ends at the corners. 

Push pocket bags to the wrong side of the garment and press. Turn pocket flap 

to its right position and press. Attach the flap ends to the garment along the 

PatternMaker Sewing projects Women's topcoat


edgestitching, sewing through all thicknesses. 

If you need more instructions of how to sew pockets, refer to the general 

sewing instructions on this site. 

Sew the coat's shoulder and side seams. (Picture 2A). 

Prepare collar. Sew under collar and top collar together right side to right side. 

Clip at corners and turn right side out and iron. (Picture 2B). Machine baste 

the raw edges of the collar (neck seam) together. 

Place collar on the coat's neckline, with right side of under collar against the 

coat's right side. Match collar shoulder mark with the coat's shoulder seam. 

Machine baste the collar to the coat's neck from lapel corner (Picture 2C, 

point c) to other lapel corner. Clip the seam allowance at the lapel corners. 

Prepare sleeves. Sew sleeve elbow darts and sleeve seams. Sew sleeves to 

the armscyes. Easestitch sleeve cap, allowing a seam allowance of 1/4 inch 

(1/2 cm). Turn sleeves right side out and coat wrong side out. Place sleeves 

inside coat (right side against right side) so that sleeves' shoulder marks match 

with the coat's shoulder seams. Insert sleeves by sewing along easestiches 

Adjust ease by pulling on the stitching in the ease cap. If there tends to be too 

much ease at sleeve cap (some fabrics tolerate more ease than others do), 

you can adjust this by placing sleeves lower at the armpit. There should be as 

much ease as possible, but no wrinkles at cap seams, when done. 

HINT: In the design tutorial there are instructions of how to use 

a facing in sleeve cap to helps to get nicely formed sleeve 

heads. Click here . 

Prepare lining. Sew the side and the back seams of the lining. Fold the lining's 



hem seam allowance twice in and sew. Sew front facings to the lining front 

edges and back neck facing on top of the right side of the lining's back neck. 

Sew lining's shoulder seams. Sew lining's sleeves and sew the sleeves to the 

lining. 

To join the jacket and the lining, place the lining on top of the coat with right 

side against right side. Leave collar in between and upside down. (Picture 

2D). Sew a continuous seam as follows: across hem of front facing, along 

one front edge, around neck to other front edge and finally across hem of other 

front facing. Clip seam allowance at at neck seam at about 1 inch (2 cm) 

intervals. Cut corners diagonally (including the corner atthe front of hem) and 

turn the lining inside the jacket. Open seams well and press. Edgestitch 

along the front edges and around the collar at a distance of 3/4" (1.5 cm) from 

the edges. 

If you sew a hood to your coat, attach it to the the coat the same way you 

attach the collar. You can sew the coat with hood with or without collar. The 

latter one is sewn the same way a shawl collar is sewn. 

If you choose to sew a normal or a 

detachable hood, cut the hood 

pieces in 4 copies. If you use 

different fabric to the hood lining, cut 

2 hood pieces from the coat fabric 

and 2 from lining fabric. Sew the 

back seam of the hood, hood pieces 

right side aganst right side (Picture 

3A). Sew the back seam of the 

lining the same way. Place the lining 

inside the hood, right side against 

right side and sew along front edge 

(Picture 3B). Turn hood right side 

out, open seams, press and 

edgestitch at a distance of 3/4" (1.5 cm) from the edge. Baste the neck edges 

of the hood together. Attach the hood to the coat the same way you attach the 

collar. You can sew both the collar and the hood to your coat. 

If you want to sew a detachable hood, sew its neck seam from the wrong side 

− before turning the hood right side out. Leave an opening for turning the hood 

right side out. Close the opening with hand stitches. Then press and 

edgestitch. Sew buttonholes to the neck edge of the hood and buttons to the 

coat neck (Picture 3B). Or use snaps. If you use zipper as the fastener, sew 

one half of it to the coat neck seam under the collar and the other half to the 

hood neck seam. 



If you choose the integrated hood, sew 

the coat's shoulder (Picture 4A, a) and 

side seams (Picture 4A, b) and the back 

seam of the hood (Picture 4A, d−g). Cut 

the seam allowance at the shoulder/neck 

corner of the coat (Picture 4A, arrow) 

and sew the hood neck (Picture 4A, c) 

to the coat neck (Picture 4A, g). Cut 

clips to the seam allowances with 

intervals of about 1" (2 cm). 

Prepare the lining as for coat with collar and attach the front facing with the 

integrated hood to the front edges of the lining (Picture 4B ). Sew shoulder 

seam. Cut seam allowance at the shoulder/neck corner. Sew the back seam of 

the hood and sew the hood neck to the coat neck in the lining as in the coat. 

Cut clips to the seam allowances. Press coat and lining. Put them right side 

agains right side and sew accross the hem of one facing and around front and 

hood edges and accross the hem of the other front facing. Turn the coat right 

side out, open seams and press. Edgestitch front edge at a distance of 3/4" 

(1.5 cm) from the edge. 

Fold sleeve cuff seam allowances in and sew with invisible stitches. Attach the 

lining to the sleeve ends. Sew hem with invisible stitches. Sew buttons and 

buttonholes. 

Sew belt loops and attach them on side seams 

according to the marks in the patterns. Sew belt. Cut 

belt double from coat fabric on fold and single from 

quilted lining fabric. Fold the belt lengthwise into two, 

right side in, place lining on top of it and sew accross 

the ends and along the long side. Leave an opening 

for turning the belt right side out. Turn the belt right 

side out and close the opening with hand stitches. 

Edgestitch at a distance of 3/4" (1.5 cm) from the 

edges. 

Sew button holes in front edge of one front piece according to marks in the 

patterns, only 2 button holes (look at the drawing). Sew buttons on top of other 

2 button holes in this same front piece. Sew 2 button holes to the other front 

piece, only 2 buttons. 

Do the final pressing. 








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Sewing instructions for maternity 

and nursing garments 

Copyright ©1998−2000 Leena Lähteenmäki, 

Järvenpää 

Also refer to sewing instructions for 

Women's Vol. 1 macros and general sewing instructions 

You can sew most of the garments in the maternity macro collection by following the 

applicable sewing instructions for Women's Vol. 1 macros. On this page we give 

instructions to sew details which are not covered in the Women's garment instructions. 

For some details we refer to the general sewing instructions page . 

Not−pregnant option 

In most of the maternity macros there is a 

"not−pregnant−option". In garments meant for pregnant 

women extra ease has been added − not only to the waist 

circumference − but to front height , too. Otherwise the front 

hem would rise higher than the rest of the hem. 

The amount of eased added to the front height is determined by an average value, and 

may not work in all situations. Therefore, it is important that you check that the hem is 

parallel to the floor all around the garment when fitting the garment on. 

If you use the garment after your pregnancy, shorten the hem at the front, if needed. 

The bottom edges of the pockets have to be parallel to the hem. Therefore, do not 

fasten the pockets until you are sure that front height is OK and you can align pockets 

according to it. 

Hint : If you are sewing a garment for a person who is not pregnant, but has a round or 

tilted abdomen, choose "pregnant−option" and check that the hem is parallel to the 

floor when you try the garment on the subject. Straighten the front hem if needed. 

Sewing instructions for maternity and nursing garments


Measuring 

Waist circumference is not asked in the maternity macros. These garments have a 

loose waist construction. 

The macro estimates the waist circumference of maternity pants and skirt according 

to the hip circumference measurement, and the necessary amount of extra ease is 

added. In the dialog box, therefore, the amount of added front height and width is 

asked. The default values are 3cm/1.25" and 6cm/2.5" per pattern piece (i.e. 1/2 of the 

front piece). So, for example, 6cm/2.5" of added front width means that the estimated 

pattern waist circumference has been increased by 12cm/5". 

You can change these measurements according to the phase of your pregnancy or 

when sewing garments for a person with a round or tilted abdomen. To be sure that 

these values are OK, measure the abdomen circumference of the front and back 

patterns, multiply the measurement by 2 (because the patterns are 1/2 patterns). 

Compare this value to the circumference measurement of your abdomen. Remember 

that there is a handy measuring tool (Draw/Dim) in the PatternMaker editing tools 

which you can use to measure the patterns on screen. 

The circumference of the 

abdomen of the patterns must 

be 2−4cm/0.75−1.5" more than 

the abdomen circumference of 

your body. If you need to 

increase or decrease the the 

amount of added ease on the 

abdomen level, change the 

added front width value in the 

measurements dialog box. If you 

need to add only a little (less 

than 5 cm/2"), don't change the 

added height value. If you need 

added width of more than 

5cm/2" (in addition to the default 

6 cm/2.5"), change the added 

front height value so that it is 

1/3−1/4 of the added front width 

value. Do the fine adjustment when fitting the garment on. 

If you are not pregnant... 

You can type "0" (zero) as the added front width and/or height value. The result 

will then be patterns for normal pants or skirt. If you are not pregnant but have a 

round or tilted abdomen and you want to have extra ease at the abdomen area 

of the garment, check the correct amount of added front width and/or height by 

measuring the patterns and your body. Start with an added front width of "0" (zero) 

and added front height of 3cm/1.25". Measure the patterns and your body and 

change these values until you are satisfied with the abdomen width and height of 

the pattern. 

Note ! Do not add anything to the body measurements when typing them in 

the measurements dialog box. The macro adds the needed moving and design 

ease amounts on top of the body measurements. 

When wearing the pants and the skirt you can adjust their waist using the 

hook−and−loop tape construction at the waistband. 



Dress with bow 

Sew darts of the front bodice. Iron. 

Continue sewing the bow and fasten it to the bottom edge of the front bodice. If you are 

using lightweight fabric, iron interfacing to the wrong side of the bow pieces (Picture 1). 

Fold the bow piece in half lengthwise, right sides together. ( Picture 2a ). Sew short 

edges of the bow. Leave the long edge raw. Turn the bow right side out, open the 

seams well and iron. Fold the bow fastening band in half lengthwise, right sides 

together, and sew the long edge ( Picture 2b ). 

Leave the short edges raw. Turn the band right side out, open seams well and iron. 

Center the seam of the band (= this will be the bottom side of band). 

Position one short edge of the band at the center of 

the bottom edge of the front bodice, with the seam of 

the band upwards. Fasten the band to the front 

bodice with a horizontal seam ( Picture 3a ). 

Place the bow on top of the fastening 

band and sew the raw edges to the 

front bodice. ( Picture 3b ). Fold the 

bow according to the picture and turn 

the fastening band down. Sew the 

other short edge of the fastening 

band to the front bodice. ( Picture 

3c ). 

Fold and baste the pleats of the front hem piece. Put the front bodice and hem pieces 

on top of each other right side of the pieces together. Sew the seam fastening front 

bodice to front hem. 

Continue according to the sewing instructions for the dress in the Women's Vol. 1 

Macro Collection. 

Maternity pants and skirt 

You can sew the pants and the skirts either with a plain front or with a separate 

embedded front (abdomen) piece. Use stretchy elastic fabric for the embedded front 

piece. If the fabric is very thin, cut it on double fabric. 



Pants, embedded abdomen piece 

Cut the embedded abdomen piece of elastic fabric on fold without a CF seam. Put the 

pattern on the fabric so that the elasticity of the fabric is horizontal. Cut the bottom 

pieces of the pants normally. Sew and overlock the joining seam of the abdomen piece 

and the front bottom piece. Continue according to instructions below. 

Skirt, embedded abdomen piece 

Cut the embedded abdomen piece and the bottom piece of the front skirt of elastic 

fabric on fold without a CF seam. Put the pattern of the abdomen piece on the fabric so 

that the elasticity of the fabric is horizontal. Cut the bottom pieces of the skirt normally. 

Sew and overlock the joining seam of the abdomen piece and the front bottom piece. 

Continue according to instructions below. 

Iron interfacing to the wrong side of the waistband. Overlock the edges of the waist 

band and the pocket pieces. 

Put front pieces of the pants on top of each other right sides together. Sew and 

overlock the CF seam. ( Picture 1a ). Iron. 

Match the pocket facings to the pocket mouths of the front pants, right sides together. 

Sew and overlock pocket mouth. ( Picture 1b ). Use a fabric tape cut from the selvage 

of the fabric in the pocket mouth seam. It will prevent pocket mouth from stretching 

when the pants are worn. Iron. 



Turn pocket facings to the wrong side of the pants and edgestitch pocket mouths with 

one or two rows of stitches. ( Picture 2a ). Iron. 

Sew waistband to the front pants: put it on the top edge of the pants, right sides 

together, and sew. Iron seam allowances upwards (towards the waist band). Fold 

waistband in half lengthwise and sew the short edges of the waistband. Turn the waist 

band right side out; fold seam allowances of the waist band inside it and edgestitch 

along all edges. ( Picture 2b ). Iron. 

Place pocket bags on top of pocket facings right sides together ( 

Picture 3a ). 

Sew and overlock the round edges of the pocket facings and pocket bags between the 

arrows in the picture. Leave the rest of the seam unsewn. ( Picture 3b ). Iron the 

pocket bags. 

Place the back pieces of the pants on top of each other, right sides together, and sew 

the CB seam of the pants. Picture 4a ). Iron. 

Place front and back pants on top of each other right sides together ( Picture 4b ). 

Sew and overlock side seams ( Picture 5a ). Sew and overlock the inside leg seams of 

the pants continuously from cuff to cuff ( Picture 5b ). 

Overlock the top edges of back pants and pocket bags. Fold into casings according to 

marks in the patterns( Picture 6 ). Sew casing along the pants' waist line. Iron. Thread 

elastic to the casing and fasten it with vertical stitch lines at the ends of the casings. 



Sew pieces of hook−and−loop tape (Velcro) to the ends of the elastic edges ( Picture 7 

a ) and to the wrong side of the front waistband ( Picture 7 b ). 

If you want to, sew trimming buttons to the right side ends of the front waistband ( 

Picture 8 ). 

Sew the waist of the maternity skirt the same way. Sew the skirt otherwise according to 

the sewing instructions of the skirt of the Women's Vol. 1 Macros . 

Jacket or dress with pleats 

Fold and baste the pleats of front and back pieces. Sew the button extension according 

to the general sewing instructions . If you want to sew the jacket/dress which is open all 

the way CF, cut the button extension all the way to the hem. 

Hint : If you want to, sew a casing for elastic to the hem as in the picture. Thread the 

casing with draw string. To make the draw string, use a length of elastic with fabric at 

the ends. This way the hem is more flexible. 

Salsa jacket or dress 

Set your machine to the longest stitch length, and baste along 

the top edge of the salsa pieces. Baste again 0.5cm/0.25" from 

the first basting line, inside the seam allowance. Gather the 

stitches until the edge corresponds to the edge to which it will 

be joined. 

Sew upper salsa pieces to front and back top parts. Sew the bottom salsa pieces to the 

hems of the upper salsa pieces. Overlock the joining seams. 

Sew and overlock shoulder and side seams of the jacket/dress. Sew and overlock the 

sleeve seams. Join the sleeves to the armscyes of the garment. 

If you sew a flat collar for the garment (refer to the green dress in the picture), cut two 

copies of it (upper and bottom collars). Iron interfacing to the wrong side of the bottom 

collar. Put upper and bottom collars on top of each other, right sides together, and sew 

the outer edge of the collar. Clip the seam allowance along the round edges of the 

collar. Turn the collar right side out, open seams well and iron. Edgestitch the collar if 

you want to. 

Iron interfacing to the wrong sides of the neck facings. Sew the shoulder seams of the 



facings. Overlock outer edges of the facings. Open seams well and iron. 

Fold in the seam allowance of the button extensions. Baste. Fold button extensions 

along the fold line marked in the patterns on top of the right side of the garment. Sew 

across bottom edges of the button extensions with distance of the hem seam 

allowance from the edge. Overlock the hem. 

Place collar on top of the neck opening of the front bodice and the button extension 

bottom collar against the right side of the garment. Place the neck facing on top of the 

collar right side down and sew through all thicknesses at distance of seam allowance 

from the edge of the neck opening. Clips the seam allowances at intervals of about 

2cm/.75". Finger−press the seam open, understitch through the facing and the collar 

and the seam allowance. Iron. 

Tip: Understitch through the seam allowances of the facing and collar (for instructions 

please refer to general sewing instructions ). 

If you sew the garment without a collar, finish the neck opening with the facing, using 

instructions above. 

Turn the button extensions to their right positions and fasten them to the front pieces 

along the basted edge. Iron. Fasten buttons and sew button holes. Edgestitch the neck 

opening and the button extension, if you want to. Sew hem with blind stitches of the 

sewing machine. 

nursing garments in general 

In the nursing garments there usually are two−layered fronts: inner and outer. In most 

cases vertical nursing openings are in the inner fronts. The outer front lies loose on the 

inner front and is fastened to the shoulder seams and to the armscyes. It hides the 

nursing openings. 

Hint : If you want to sew a " normal version" of a nursing garment (with no nursing 

openings), sew the edges of the nursing opening together, forming a seam. 

Nursing shirt 

Cut an extension to the breast feeding opening according to marks on the patterns i.e. 

about 5cm/2" downwards from the breast apex ( a−b in picture 1 ). Fold the hem seam 

allowances of the outer front pieces inwards twice and sew. Place the outer front 

pieces on top of the inner front pieces (the edges of the nursing openings side by side) 

and baste along front edges, neck openings, shoulders, armscyes and side seams. 

Picture 2. 

Iron interfacing to half of the wrong side of the button extension. Place button extension 



on top of the front pieces right sides together. Sew. Picture 3. Fold in and baste seam 

allowance from the other long edge of the button extension. Iron the seam allowance 

towards the button extension. 

Fold the button extension lengthwise in two 

along the fold line marked in the patterns wrong 

side in and sew across bottom edge of the 

button extension with distance of the hem seam 

allowance from the edge. Overlock the hem. 

Fold the button extension right side out and sew 

along the basted seam allowance edge. 

Tip: Finish the edges of the nursing openings with separate strips of fabric e.g. 

according to the bound slit instructions in the general sewing instructions . 

Sew the rest of the shirt according to the sewing instructions of the shirt of the women's 

vol. 1 macros . 

Nursing bodyshirt 

Fold ribbings in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and mark the 1/2−points of them 

with pins. Mark in the same way the 1/2−points of the edges of the front pieces. Pin 

ribbings to the corresponding edges of the garment raw edges and marking pins 

matching. ( Picture 1 ) Sew. 

Finger press the seam allowances away from the ribbing and sew through the garment 

and the seam allowance with double needle on the right side of the garment near the 

joining seam of the ribbing. ( Picture 1a ) Cut away excess seam allowance from the 

wrong side of the garment. 

Pin the top (outer front) and the bottom front (inner front) pieces on top of each other 

with the wrong side of the top front piece against the right side of the bottom front 

piece. Baste along armscyes and side seams. ( Picture 2 ) Handle the front pieces 

from this point on as a single piece. 



Sew and overlock the shoulder and the side seams. 

Iron interfacing on the wrong side of the neck facing. Sew and 

overlock the shoulder seams of the facing. Overlock the outer 

edge of the facing. Pin the facing on the garment neck opening 

rights sides together and sew it to the garment at a distance of 

the seam allowance from the edge. ( Picture 3 ) . 

Clip seam allowances at intervals of about 2cm/.75". Fingerpress the seam open, 

understitch through the facing and the seam allowance. Iron carefully. Sew and 

overlock the sleeve seams. Sew sleeves to the armscyes of the garment. 

Turn a seam allowance of 3−5cm/1.25−2" from the sleeve ends and 

from the hem. Sew with double needle on the right side of the 

garment. ( Picture 4 ) Cut away the excess seam allowance from 

the wrong side of the garment. 

Hint : You can sew a short top to be used as underwear or sport garment using the 

pattern of outer front. Cut Back piece to same length. Finish neck opening, armscyes 

and hem with ribbings. Use the ease option of "minimum". 

Nursing dress 



Sew and overlock the joining seams of the front hem pieces. Turn the seam allowances 

of the front top pieces in and sew according to the picture. ( Picture 1 ) Place and 

baste front top pieces on top of each other according to marks in the patterns. 

Sew and overlock the joining seam of the front top and hem pieces. ( Picture 2 ). Iron. 

Sew and overlock the joining seams of the back hem pieces. Leave the CB seam 

unsewn for the time being. Sew the shoulder darts of the back pieces and join the back 

top pieces to the back hem pieces. Iron. Overlock the edges of the CB seam. Sew CB 

seam from hem to a distance of approximately 20cm/8" from the waist marks 

downwards (to the hip level). Baste the rest of the CB seam. Iron the seam open. 

Fasten zipper to the top (= basted) part of the CB seam. Unravel the basting stitches.( 

Picture 3 ). 

Place front and back pieces on top of each other, right sides together. Sew and 

overlock the shoulder and the side seams. When sewing the shoulder seams place the 



edges of the nursing openings on front piece side by side. ( Picture 4 ). 

Prepare the outer top as follows. Sew hemmings to the CB 

edges of the outer back. Sew and overlock the side seams 

of the outer top. Sew hem seam allowances of the top. ( 

Picture 5 ). Iron. 

Iron interfacing to the wrong side of the neck facing. Sew shoulder seams of the neck 

facing. Overlock the outer edge of the neck facing. Iron. 

Pin outer top piece on top of the inner top piece, matching neck openings and 

armscyes. Position neck facing at the neck opening, right sides together. Sew at 

distance of the seam allowance from edge. ( Picture 6 ). Sew understitching through 

the facing and the seam allowances and turn the facing inside the garment. 

Fasten facing with hand stitches to the zipper tapes 

and to the shoulder seams at the wrong side of the 

garment. Leave the outer back pieces loose on the 

inner back piece. Do not sew them to the CB seam. 

If you sew long sleeves with flounce, sew and overlock the joining seam of the flounce 

piece and the sleeve. Sew and overlock the sleeve seams from cuff to armpit. ( Picture 

7 ). Fasten sleeves to armscyes through outer and inner tops. 






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PatternMaker Sewing projects: 

Jacket with removable sleeves 

Types of fasteners 

If you want to sew a jacket with removable sleeves, there are many alternatives. As 

fasteners you can use 

1) zippers 

2) buttons 

3) no−sew snaps 

4) fabric− or leather−covered snaps 

5) snap tape 

6) hook−and−loop tape (Velcro) 

Preparing the armscyes 

Armscye facings 

The sleeves can be fastened to the armscyes without no changes in the shell pieces. 

The fasteners can be hidden (picture 1) or visible (picture 2). In these design 

alternatives the armscyes are finished with facings. Facing must be topstitched − 

unless you use zippers and the lapped application as suggested below − to keep the 

sleeves in place when fastened under the facings. 

How to draft facings to the armscys and the sleeve caps using the editing tools of 

Patternmaker is described in Exercise 24 in the Design Tutorial: "Drafting facings". 

When using zippers as fasteners, use the lapped application to hide the zipper under 

the lap. This method is described in "Attaching zipper to pants or skirt" in the General 

Sewing instructions. Topstitch the lap with hand stitching, machine blind stitching or 

plain maching stitching. 

Armscye with a flange or a pleat 

The fasteners can be hidden under a flange (picture 3) or pleat (picture 4). 

PatternMaker Sewing projects: Jacket with removable sleeves


Alter the front pattern pieces according to the pictures to the left. 

Preparing the sleeve cap 

Always sew the side seam of the shell and the sleeve seams before attaching 

fasteners or facings to them. 

If you use zipper you can attach it directly to the sleeve cap. Use added seam 

allowance (picture 5A) to be able to place the zipper 0.5−1 cm outwards from the 

original sleeve cap seam line. 

After having sewn one edge of the zipper to the 

sleeve cap, close the zipper and position the sleeve 

under the armscye matching armscye edge and the 

original sleeve cap seam. Baste or pin the other 

edge of the zipper to its place. Topstitch it from the 

right side of the armscye. The zipper will be hidden 

under the zipper lap. 

Another way is to sew a facing to the sleeve cap and sandwich the zipper between the 

sleeve cap and the facing (picture 5B). 

The third alternative is to sew another armscye facing and to attach sleeve to it as 

you would sew the sleeve to the garment armscye (picture 5C). Sandwitch zipper 

between the sleeve and the facing. If you use buttons, snaps or pieces of 

hook−and−loop tape, sew them to the facing sewn to the sleeves and the the counter 

parts to the armscye facings. 

Whichever alternative you choose you have to secure that the sleeve cap ease is 

preserved. Here is a good method to handle the cap ease. 

Cap ease 

When using the dropped sleeve design there is no need to use ease in the sleeve cap. 

If you use a fitted sleeve cap design you have to secure that the sleeve cap ease is 

preserved. 

Here is a good method to handle the 

cap ease. Cut a 5 cm/2" wide bias fabric 

strip or from a stretchy fabric. Fold it in 

two and sew to the sleeve head as in 

the photo at the distance of the seam 

allowance from the edge stretching the 

strip as much as possible when sewing. 

The strip will gather the sleeve cap and is very easy to handle when sewing sleeves to 

the garment. The strip also gives the needed support to the sleeve cap and gives it a 

nice, round shape. When attaching a zipper to the sleeve cap − or the sleeve to the 

armscye − stitch to the ditch i.e. along the earlier stitch line. 



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Two tunics 

Use knit, jersey or other stretchy fabric. 

Sew the seams with serger or with medium long narrow, zigzag stitches. Trim and 

overlock seam allowances if using zigzag. Sew hem and sleeve cuffs with double 

needle and trim seam allowances from the wrong side of the garment. 

Tunic with flared hem and chimney collar 

Preparing the patterns 

Use the blouse macro in PatternMaker ladies' vol. 1 macro collection. 

PatternMaker Sewing projects Two tunics


Cut away button extension and front facing. Increase width of neck opening with 2 cm 

(3/4") and lower neck opening at the front with 3 cm (1 1/4"). Draft 6 hem flare pieces 

according to the drawing from waist to hem, width at the hem 20 cm (7 3/4"). 

Draft pattern for collar according to drawing, height 40 cm (15 3/4"), width same as the 

circumference of the neck opening of the garment. Remember to add seam allowances. 

Sewing the collar 

Iron interfacing to collar piece as in the photo and sew button holes for draw string. 

Sew the vertical seam of the collar (raw edges in the picture) right side against right 

side. Iron seam. Turn collar right side out and fold into finished height. (The height of 

the collar piece is 40 cm (15 3/4") and finished height 20 cm). Sew a 3 cm (1 1/4") 

wide casing for the draw string at the top edge of the collar. machine baste along the 

bottom edge. 

Sewing the draw strings 

Cut a 5 cm (2") wide fabric strip. Fold it lengthwise into two right side inside and sew 

the long edge. Trim seam allowance if needed. Clip one end of the draw string as in the 

picture and slip safety pin trough the clipping. Turn the draw string right side out using 

the pin. Slip the draw string into the casing. 





Sewing the tunic 

Hint: Use multicolored fabric to the shell and monochrome fabric or fabric of contrating 

color to the collar, the flare pieces and the skirt as in the sample garments. 

Sew one hem flare piece to both edges of the center front piece from waist to hem. 

Sew front side pieces to front center piece. Sew hem flare pieces to the sides of the 

front side pieces. Sew one hem flare piece to both edges of the center back piece from 

waist to hem. Sew back side pieces to back center piece. 

Sew side and shoulder seams. Sew collar into neck opening. Sew the sleeve seams 

and hem the sleeve cuffs. Attach sleeves into armscyes. Hem the tunic. 

Sew a matching skirt 

If you want to sew a matching long skirt with draw string at the hem, cut one straight 

piece for it, width according to your hip circumference + 10 cm (4") ease and length 

according to the desired skirt length. Add 2 x 4 cm (2 x 1.5") + seam allowance to the 

top edge of the skirt for waist elastic and 2 x 3 cm (2 x 1") + seam allowance to the 

bottom edge of the skirt for a casing for draw string. Another alternative is to use the 

skirt macro in the ladies' vol. 1 macro collection. There is an option for elastic waist. 

Iron interfacing to the wrong side of the skirt hem CF where you intend to sew the 

button holes for the draw string. Replace at least half of the draw string with elastic to 

make sure that the hem stretches enough when you walk. 

Tunic with pleats at back hem 



Preparing the patterns 

Use the shirt macro in the ladies' vol. 1 macros. 

Cut away button extension and front facing. Increase the width of the neck opening 

with 1cm (1/2") and lower neck opening at the front with 3 cm (2 1/4") or as much as 

you want to. 

Cut the patterns and draft the pattern for the pleated back hem piece according to the 

drawing. 

Sewing the tunic 

Topstitch all the seams except of the side, shoulder and sleeve seams with double 

needle immediately you have sewn (and ironed) the seam. Iron again after 

topstitching. Sew the hem and sleeve cuffs with double needle and trim excess fabric 

from the wrong side. 

Sew the lower front pieces together right side against right side. Sew the horizontal 

seam of the front piece right against right. Sew side seams. Hem this part of the tunic. 

Hem the back pleat piece. Fold, iron and edgestitch the pleats. Machine baste at the 

top edge. Attach the pleat piece to the CB top piece right side against right side. 

Sew the vertical back seam. Sew shoulder seams. Sew sleeve seams.Attach 

sleeves to the shell. 



Read instructions in the general sewing instructions of how to sew a neat bound 

edge to the neck opening and sleeve cuffs. 






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Sewing instructions for women's lingerie 

Copyright ©1998−2000 Leena Lähteenmäki, Järvenpää, Finland 

Terminology 

Please refer to picture to get acquainted with the terminology used. 

Nowadays most bras are made with underwires. They are of metal or plastic and are 

inserted into casings at bottom edge of the cups. If you cannot find underwires in your 

fabric shop, you can use used ones from an old bra. Sometimes you can find bras at 

very low prices at sales or in discount stores. If so, it might be worthwhile buying very 

cheap bras just for their underwires and − why not − shoulder straps. 

Women with a prominent bust are recommended to sew classic bras without 

underwires. 

Sewing instructions for women's lingerie


Sewing lingerie 

To sew your own lingerie to your personal measurements is most rewarding. With 

modern sewing machines and sergers it is also easy and quick. With luxurious fabrics, 

beautiful laces, lace appliqués and light lingerie elastics, you can make beautiful 

lingerie that is all your own. 

PatternMaker Macro Lingerie can be sewn of elastic or non−elastic fabrics. Use 

lightweight, easy−care fabrics of cotton, silk or synthetic fiber content, in either knit or 

wovens. Buy fabric enough for a test garment. Sometimes you may need to make a 

couple of test garments before you master the sewing and measuring techniques. 

Scaling patterns to account for stretching in the fabric 

One of the best features of PatternMaker Macro Patterns for Lingerie is the fact that 

patterns can be reduced in size to account for stretching in the fabric. You will need to 

calculate the stretching factors for the fabric you use. Examine how much the fabric 

stretches horizontally and vertically and let the program resize the patterns accordingly. 

There is a Dialog Box for this purpose in the PatternMaker Lingerie Macro. You are 

asked to give Horizontal and Vertical Scaling Factors. 

To determine the factors for a particular fabric, stretch 

the fabric and measure its elasticity. Fold piece of 

fabric in two and stretch it separately in height and 

width along a ruler. "Height" is the direction that will be 

vertical when you put the pattern on the fabric, and 

"width" is the horizontal direction. Measure 

unstretched and stretched width and height of the 

fabric. The Scaling Factor needed is calculated by 

dividing the measurement of the unstretched fabric by 

the measurement of the stretched fabric. Stretch 

moderately, as the fabric would stretch on your body. 

Example: 

If the unstretched width and height of the fabric is 40 cm and the stretched width of the 

fabric is 50 cm and height 45 cm 

Horizontal Scaling Factor is 40/50=0.8 and 

vertical Scaling Factor is 40/45 = 0.9 

In other words, if the fabric is stretches 20%, the scaling factor is 0.8. 

The Lingerie Macro does not reduce patterns for bra cups, bra front center triangle and 

body front center piece, nor does it reduce corset patterns. These parts should be 

made of a non−elastic fabric. If you sew them of elastic material, make them double 

thickness or line or cover them with non−elastic fabric or lace. 

Hint : When sewing normal, short bra, always use a vertical scaling factor of "1". It is 

better not to reduce height of bra back panels even if the fabric is somewhat elastic in 

height. 

Hint : If you want the patterns to exactly match your body measurements, use default 

scaling factors "1". It is also possible to use scaling factors greater than "1". In this 

case, the patterns are drawn larger than your body measurements i.e. the patterns will 

have ease. This might be necessary if you use the waist length bra patterns to sew an 

evening top of non−elastic fabric, for instance. 

If you sew lingerie entirely of non−elastic fabric, you have to use scaling factors that 

are greater than "1". How much "ease" you have to add, is a question of the model and 



the fabric used. If you are not familiar with adding ease to patterns, it is better to use 

elastic fabrics. 

The Lingerie Macro lets you decide whether your Basic Bodice (Sloper) that is the 

basis for all the patterns is drawn along with lingerie pattern pieces. Use this as a 

reference to see how the pieces fit the sloper pattern. By doing so you will see how 

lingerie patterns are drawn in relation to basic bodice. The Lingerie Macro drafts the 

Basic Bodice patterns with normal ease i.e. bust circumference ease 8 cm (3.2"). 

Please notice also, that patterns Basic Bodice are not reduced in scale even if you use 

scaling factors smaller than 1. Therefore, if you want to experiment how lingerie 

patterns are drawn in relation to basic bodice patterns, use scaling factors of 1. 

MATERIALS AND NOTIONS 

You can order lingerie fabrics and acessories through Internet, here you have one 

address http://www.sewsassy.com/ . 

In addition to the fabric you will need: 

BRA: 

• narrow lingerie elastic for finishing top and bottom edges of bra back panels 2 

hooks of two−row hook−and−eye tape for back closing bra underwires, which 

come in sizes according to measurements taken under breasts (70, 75, 80 cm 

etc.) 

• elastic tube band for casings for underwires, or alternatively, 2 cm wide bias 

binding tape basted lengthwise in two 

• band for shoulder straps (optional; you can also make shoulder straps from bra 

fabrics) 

• shoulder strap adjustment clips (optional) 

WAIST LENGTH BRA: 

• same accessories as for bra above except for hook−and−eye tape 

• a zipper which opens from both ends, or accessories for another kind of front 

closing 

• bra ribs (bones) or rigid plastic/nylon tape sold for this purpose to stiffen bra 

vertical seams. Measure the needed amount of tape from pattern. 

BODYSUIT WITH BRA CUPS: 

• same accessories as for bra above 

• 3 hooks from one−row hook−and−eye tape for crotch closing 

CORSET: 

• corset ribs (bones) or rigid plastic/nylon tape sold for this purpose to stiffen 

corset vertical seams (measure the needed amount of tape from pattern, but 

note that tape is not inserted in the seam which goes over bust) 



• lace, embroidery and/or lace appliqués for corset top and bottom edgings 

• a zipper which opens from both ends or other kind of front closure 

• for an adjustable corset, button loop tape and draw string for back center seam 

PANTIES: 

• ingerie elastic for edges of leg openings 

• 2−3 cm wide elastic or elastic lace for waist 

LACE, LACE APPLIQUÉS OR OTHER LINGERIE 

DECORATIONS: 

If you want to, you can decorate lingerie with lace. You can replace part of fabric with 

lace or lace fabric or you can use lace fabric to cover the lingerie fabric. Examine 

ready−made lingerie for ideas. Before you do this, however, learn the basic techniques 

for sewing lingerie. Only after you are familiar with the basic techniques should you try 

special techniques or materials. 

Hint: If you want to sew a padded bra, use the bra cup patterns to cut padding from thin 

wadding or fleece. Line bra cups and place padding between bra fabric and lining. Cut 

bra cups a bit larger than the pattern so that the padding fits inside the bra. 

You can also line only the padding and fasten it into the bottom seams of the cups. In 

this way − leaving the padding free at top edges of the cups − you give the padding 

better form. 

Hint: Try sewing bra cups of padded fabric and bra back panels of elastic fabric 

matching the color of the padded fabric. It is quick and easy. 

Measuring 

For Lingerie Macro you need same measurements as for other PatternMaker macros 

(refer to the Ladies’ macro manual for this) and a few additional measurements. Take 

the additional measurements according to illustration hereunder. The easiest way to 

take the bra cup measurements is to put on a bra you already have that fits well and 

take the measurements from it. 

Have a set of the underwires that you will use available before you start measuring 

yourself, since the length of these is one of the measurements you will need. 

If you take cup measurements directly from breast, put bra underwire under the breast 

and mark its end points (i.e. points A and B) with non−permanent ink on your skin. 

Mark point E on your skin also: it is directly above the breast apex, upwards to the point 

where you want your bra’s top edge to be. This point is a design choice and you can 

determine it yourself. These marks help you to take the right measurements. 

Do not try to measure yourself − it does not work. Ask a friend to take the 

measurements. 



MEASUREMENTS IN THE LINGERIE MACRO DIALOG 

BOX: 

• Arc width (place underwire on table and measure horizontally from one end of 

underwire to the other) 

• Breast width (place underwire under your breast and measure from one end 

of the underwire over bust apex to the other end of underwire) 

• Width around breast top (as the previous one but not over bust apex but 

around top of breast) 

• Crotch height front (from CF waist vertically to center of your crotch) 

• Pants height front (from front waistline to edge of leg opening, measure 

vertically at the midpoint of CF waist and side) 

• Crotch height back (from CB waist vertically to center of your crotch) 

• Pants height back (from back waistline to edge of leg opening under buttocks, 

measure vertically at the midpoint of CB waist and side) 

Bra with arc 

Cup top height = from bust apex vertically to the point where the bra top edge is 

wanted to be 

Cup bottom height = from bottom of breast vertically to bust apex 

Bra without arc 

Cup top height = from bust apex vertically to the point where the bra top edge is 

wanted to be 

Cup bottom height = from bottom of breast vertically to bust apex 

Band height, side = desired band height at side 

Band height, back = desired band height at CB 



Preparing the fabric, cutting and adding seam 

allowances 

If you are not sure that your fabric and laces won't shrink when washed, prewash and 

iron them to preshrink them. 

Fold fabric in two. Cut the following pattern pieces on fold: bra center triangles/midriff 

pieces (2 each). 

• bodysuit center front and center back pieces 

• corset center front and center back pieces 

On the cup patterns there is a two−headed arrow. This is the grain line. Place the 

pattern on the fabric so that the direction of stretch of the fabric is parallel to this arrow. 

The cups will fit much better if the pieces are cut this way. If the fabric which you are 

going to use stretches in both directions, it usually stretches more in one direction. In 

such a case use this as the direction of the grain line. 

The center triangles of the bra with underwire and the midriff piece of the bra without 

underwire can be cut from a non−elastic fabric. If you cut these pieces from an elastic 

fabric, line or overlay the pieces with non−elastic fabric or lace. 

Cut the body pieces of the waist bra and the bodysuit as well as the pieces for the 

corset and the panties so that the fabric stretches horizontally. 

The top pieces of the cups can also be cut from a non−elastic fabric or lace. If you line 

the cups, use elastic lining fabric for the bottom pieces of the cups and cut it the same 

direction you cut the cups. 

Add 2 cm seam allowance to seams into which you are going to insert ribs (waist 

length bra and corset vertical seams). Add 1 cm seam allowance to all other seams. 

Add to panties' top edge a seam allowance that equals the width of the waist elastic 

you are using. 

Sewing and overlocking 

Seams 

Best results are achieved when sewing seams with a serger. If you don't have a serger, 

sew seams with narrow zigzag. Use at least 3 mm long stitches. Stitches that are too 

short can break the fabric. If sewing the garment of non−elastic fabric with sewing 

machine, trim seams to 6 mm and overlock seam allowances together with zigzag. 

Tricot and lace fabrics do not need overlocking. 



Lace appliqués and medallions 

You can insert lace medallions and motifs cut from lace fabric on your lingerie. Use 

transparent tape to position lace inserts on right side of the garment and stitch near 

edge, through tape, using narrow zigzag and medium length. After fastening the lace, 

remove tape and cut the underlying fabric with sharp scissors. 

Finishing edges 

Edge finishes can be done in many ways depending on the characteristics of the edge. 

If you want to reduce length of edge (in leg openings for panties, for instance), use 

edge elastic or sew transparent elastic into the seam. Following techniques can be 

applied for edge finishes: 

1) Bound edge finishes : Cut seam allowance away from edges. Sew bias binding 

tape on wrong side of the edge, turn it round edge to the right side of the garment and 

sew at edge. 

2) Picot edge finishes : Overlock seam allowance of non−elastic fabric and turn it to 

wrong side. Sew on right side with straight stitch near edge. If you are using elastic 

fabric, use seam allowance of 2−3 cm. Fold seam allowance inside and sew on right 

side with overedge or blanket stitch along edge. Trim excess fabric away from finished 

edge close to stitching. Twin needle is also a good solution and gives a professional 

look for this kind of edges. 

A beautiful scalloped edging is achieved by using wide and long overedge stitch, and 

stitching so that right swing of the needle stitches over folded edge and the remaining 

stitches are on the fabric. Nice but easy wavy picot edging is sewn by using dense 

zigzag over folded edge and stretching the fabric tight when sewing. Excess fabric is 

trimmed away from the seam after sewing. 

3) Lace−trimmed edges : If the fabric is elastic, the lace must also be elastic. If you 

use narrow edge lace, position the lace upside down on the fabric, right sides together, 

with straight edge of lace 1 cm (= seam allowance) from raw edge. Machine−baste 

elastic near edge. Turn lace to final position and turn seam allowance inside. Stitch 

with 3−stitch zigzag on right side of the garment along edge of lace. Trim excess fabric 

from wrong side of garment. 

If you use wide edge lace, tape lace in place, wrong side of lace against right side of 

garment, and zigzag over tape near edge of lace. Trim excess fabric from wrong side 

of garment. 

4) Elastic−trimmed edges : Machine baste elastic to the edge upside down, right side 

against right side. Stretch elastic when basting. Turn elastic to its correct position on 

inside and topstitch on right side of the garment with 3−stitch zigzag stretching the 

elastic when zigzagging. 

If the elastic is applied to an edge which will lie flat when complete (like edges of bra 

back panels), it needs to be stretched only a little. 



If the elastic is applied to an edge which will be shrunk when complete (like panties' leg 

openings), stretch it a little more. Measure the length of elastics for this kind of edges 

(waist and leg openings) around your body. As a rule of thumb you can use the 

following: length of the edge elastic is 2/3 of the length of the edge. 

Hint : You can use regular narrow elastic to replace edge elastic. Machine baste it to 

wrong side of the edge, stretching it while basting. When turning elastic and seam 

allowance to wrong side of the garment, and topstitching the edge with 3−stitch zigzag 

on right side of the garment, the elastic is left hidden inside seam allowance. 

Waist elastic for panties is fastened in the following way. Divide elastic and garment 

edge into fourths; mark both with pins. Pin elastic to fabric, wrong sides together and 

edge of elastic even with raw edge of fabric. Match pin marks. Machine baste close to 

picot edge, stretching while basting. Turn elastic to its final position inside the garment 

and topstitch with 3−stitch zigzag along bottom edge of elastic. Elastic is hidden inside 

waist seam allowance. 

Sew lace appliqué or medallion at edge of garment in the following way. Finish edge of 

garment using one of the above−mentioned edge finishing techniques. Position lace, 

right side up, in its place on right side of the garment with transparent tape. For edges 

with elastic (like at panties' waist), stretch edge when taping the lace in place. Topstitch 

lace along its edges with narrow zigzag over tape. Finally, remove the tape and cut 

underlying fabric away with sharp scissors. 

Hint: You can use lace or lace fabric even in places where there originally is a seam. 

E.g. by substituting panties' side seam with lace, you get a garment without side seam. 

Hint: Pieces of lace can be joined by sewing them together flat with narrow zigzag 

stitching. First position and tape them on top of each other, motifs matching. Best result 

is achieved when the joining stitching is sewed along a motif. Finally, cut excess lace 

away with sharp scissors near stitching. 

Hint: If you fasten a broad lace at a curved edge of a garment, tape it to its place at the 

edge which will be longer in the ready garment. Clip the lace from other edge, following 

motifs, as necessary to overlap and flatten lace. Tape. Stitch along taped edge with 

narrow zigzag. Stitch over clips through overlapped layers of lace, following motifs, with 

narrow zigzag. Remove tapes and cut excess lace with sharp scissors near zigzags. 

Hint: Lace edge with corners is done the following way. Position lace in place and fold it 

at corners. Tape and sew with narrow zigzag along edge and folds. Finally cut excess 

lace away with sharp scissors. 

Shoulder straps 

Band for shoulder straps is sold ready−made. Another option is to sew shoulder straps 

of garment fabric. This might be necessary if you don't find band matching the color of 

your bra fabric. It is also much cheaper to sew shoulder straps of the lingerie fabric 

than to use ready−made shoulder strap band. Use one of the following techniques: 

1) Sew a tube strap of garment fabric (spaghetti shoulder straps). Cut fabric strip twice 

as wide as the desired finished width plus seam allowance. Fold strip in half 

lengthwise, right sides together, and stitch along raw edges, stretching the fabric while 

sewing. Trim seam allowances to 2−3 mm. Turn the strap right side out with a loop 

turner or a safety pin. 

2) Beautiful, narrow shoulder straps are made of tricot in the following way: Cut 1−2 

cm wide tricot strip crosswise to the grain. Place strip right side up, stretch tightly to 

make it roll and sew over it with wide zigzag, taking care not to catch fabric in stitches. 

Hint: This technique can also be applied to sew draw strings for casual garments! 

3) Flat 3−fold shoulder straps are sewn in the following way: Cut a fabric strip three 



times as wide as the desired finished width and fold it three times lengthwise, wrong 

side of the fabric inside. Sew along both edges with picot edge finish (explained 

above). If the strap is narrow you can use overlocking stitches or zigzag at center of 

strap. A twin needle can also be used. Cut potential excess fabric away from underside 

of the strap. 

Fasten shoulder straps in place with narrow tight zigzag stitching. Fasten shoulder 

straps to back of the garment first and then find the right places for them at front of 

garment by trying garment on. A handy way to fasten shoulder straps is to use 3−stitch 

zigzag: lower the feed dog of your sewing machine down and stitch in place. 

Test garment 

Sew a test garment first. This is necessary for learning the basic construction 

techniques. With a test garment you also ensure that you have taken the 

measurements correctly and that you have used correct scaling factors for fabric 

elasticity when drawing the patterns. If the garment does not fit, change the scaling 

factors you have used or take new measurements. 

It is possible that you will have to do more than one test garment. This is the price you 

have to pay to learn to sew lingerie. After you have learned and practiced your 

techniques, you can sew personal, well−fitting and beautiful lingerie quickly and at a 

fraction of store prices for yourself, for your daughter, for your mother, or for your 

friends. You can also use the sewing techniques you have learned to sew swimming 

suits and action wear. 

Hint: If you want to sew a bodysuit, start by sewing a bra with underwires. This will give 

you practice in the most important sewing techniques for elastic garments. After having 

sewn bra, sew panties, which are easy and quick to sew. Then sew a waist length bra. 

By trying waist length bra and panties on, you can check that you have used correct 

scaling factors: bodysuit is a combination of waist length bra and panties. To be able to 

sew a comfortable and well−fitting bodysuit, its height measurements must be exact. 

Pay special attention to vertical scaling factor. 

Sewing a bra 

BRA WITH UNDERWIRE 

The bra and slip in the picture have been sewn with Patternmaker lingerie patterns by 

Thea Botter, the Dutch dealer of PatternMaker. 



Cut the bottom pieces of the cup so that the direction of stretch of the fabric is vertical. 

Cut the top piece of the cup so that the direction of stretch of the fabric is horizontal. 

(Refer to paragraph "Cutting and seam allowances" above. The top pieces of the cups 

can also be cut from lace or lace fabric. 

Cut center triangle on double fabric. Sew top and bottom edges of center triangle 

pieces, right sides together. Turn triangles right side out and edgestitch near edges. If 

you want to fasten a decoration to center triangle, do it now. 

Sew dividing seams for cups, right sides together. Topstitch seam on right side. 

Finish bottom edges of bra back panels with elastic−trimming technique instructed 

above. Stretch elastic only a little. (Back panels should lie flat when ready.) 

Sew back panels to cups, rights sides together. Stretch back panels when sewing. If 

you find it difficult to combine seams that curve in different directions, do as follows: 

First staystitch edge of back panels 1 cm (= seam allowance) from edges. Clip seam 

allowances at 1 cm intervals. Now it is much easier to combine the seams. 

Finish top edges of back panels and cups continuously with elastic−trimming 

technique. When doing this, turn seam where back panels meet cups towards inside of 

cups. 

Fasten center triangle to cup. Stretch center triangle when sewing. 

Fold center triangle and one back panel on top of one cup, right sides together. 

Position tube tape or folded bias tape at bottom edge of cups. Leave 2 cm of tape over 

both ends. Sew along inner edge of tube tape. Fold tape to wrong side of cup and sew 

along other edge to form a casing for underwires. Sew casing to other cup in the same 

way. Insert underwires into casings. To form stoppers in the casings, fold inwards and 

fasten ends of tape at both ends of casings. 

Try the bra on to check that the circumference of the bra is correct and fasten pieces of 

two−row hook−and−eye tape to ends of back panels. If you want to provide shoulder 

straps with shoulder strap adjustment clips, do it now. Look at your old bra to see how 

this is done. Fasten shoulder straps first at back of bra and then by trying the bra on, 

find the correct points to fasten them to cups in front. 

Another possible order of assembly is as follows: Finish center triangle as above. 

Finish top and bottom edges of back panels with edge elastic before you combine them 

to the cups. Finish top edges of cups with edge elastic or lace as well. Fasten center 

triangle and back panels only now to cups. In this order of assembly, it is possible to 

use other material than edge elastic to finish top edges of cups, e.g. lace, embroidery 

or decoration tape. If you do so, sew transparent elastic at wrong side of top edges of 

cups to prevent the edges from getting too loose. 

BRA WITHOUT UNDERWIRE 

Sew bra without underwire according to instructios of the bra sewing project on this site. 



WAIST−LENGTH BRA 





Sew halves of cups together, right side against right side. Topstitch seams on right 

side. 

Sew front, side and back seams of body, right sides together, with 2 cm seam 

allowances. Fold seam allowances towards center at front and at back, and towards 

back at sides. Stitch seams from right side of the garment to form 1 cm wide casings 

for ribs/rib tape. Insert ribs/rib tape into the casings. Do not extend ribs/rib tapes over 

top and bottom seam allowances. Topstitch rib tapes at both ends to prevent sharp 

ends from tearing the fabric when you move. 

Combine bra body piece to cups in front. Keep body piece stretched while sewing. 

Finish top edges of waist length bra with edge−elastic technique. Start and stop 

stitching at center front. 

Sew tube tape/folded bias tape to wrong side of bottom edges of cups as with bra with 

underwire. Insert underwires into casings. To form stoppers in casings, fold inwards 

and fasten excess tape at both ends of casings. 

Fasten a zipper or another kind of a closure (buttons and buttonholes, hooks and eyes, 

snaps) to center front. Fold inside seam allowance of bottom edge and edgestitch on 

right side with 3−stitch zigzag. Fasten shoulder straps first to back of bra and then try 

the bra on, to find the correct attachment points in front, and attach. 

Sewing panties 

Position crotch pieces right side against right side and put front crotch between them. 

Sew. Fold front and back pieces of panties between the crotch pieces and sew crotch 

seam at front right sides together. Turn right side out. 

Finish edges of leg openings with edge−elastic technique. Stretch elastic more in back 

than in front. Sew side seams. 

Cut a suitable waist elastic. Combine ends of elastic flat. Fasten waist elastic according 

to instructions above. 

For more instructions and hints please refer to the Panties' Sewing Project on this site. 



Sewing a bodysuit / a swim suit 





Sew halves of cups together, right sides together. Sew vertical seams of body parts. 

Set crotch pieces right side against right side and lay back crotch piece of body part 

between them. Sew and turn right side out. Finish edges of leg openings with edge 

elastic. Stretch elastic more at back. Combine cups to body piece at front (keep body 

piece stretched while sewing). Finish top edge of body piece and cups with edge 

elastic. Start and end at side seam. Sew tube tape/folded bias tape to wrong side of 

bottom edges of cups to form casings for underwires as for bra with underwires. Insert 

underwires into casings. To form stoppers in casings, fold inwards and fasten excess 

tape to both ends of casings. Insert underwires into the casings. 

Fasten hook−and−eye tape at crotch. Fasten shoulder straps first at back of bodysuit 

and then try the garment on, to find the correct attachment points in front, and attach. 

These garments do not have closures in front or in back. If you are making a swimming 

suit, don't sew hook−and−eye tape at crotch. 

Hint: If you want to make a body or swim suit without cups, make a pattern by 

combining patterns for basic bodice and panties. Use the basic bodice which is drawn 

with Lingerie Macro (not the one from the Ladies’ macro kit), because it is without ease. 

Another possibility is to draw patterns combining patterns for panties and pullover 

(lpullov.mac) with minimum (= 0 cm) ease. If you use basic bodice, make dividing 

seams at front and back or reduce waist dart at side seams. With pullover macro you 

can make pattern without dividing seams. 

Sewing a corset 

Sew corset vertical seams with 2 cm seam allowances. Only the seam which goes over 

the breast is sewn with 1 cm seam allowance. Fasten zipper or other closure 

mechanism (hooks, buttons) at front. Try the corset on. If you want it to be tighter, take 

it in at side seams. Fold and iron seams at front and at back towards center and at 

sides towards back. Topstitch them to form 1 cm wide casings for ribs/rib tape. Insert 

ribs/rib tape into the casings leaving top and bottom seam allowances free. Topstitch 

rib tapes at both ends to prevent sharp ends from tearing fabric when you move. 

Finish top and bottom edges of corset with lace or embroidery. Make shoulder straps 

using corset fabric. Fasten them to top edge of corset. Fasten garters to corners of 

front bottom if you want to. 

Hint: To make your corset adjustable, sew it with a back seam and fasten button loop 

tape and draw strings into back seam. Draw string can be made from tricot with one of 

the shoulder strap techniques above. 



Designing bra cups 

Patterns for bra cups can be designed in many ways. You can make different designs 

by moving dividing seams of cups to different places. Instead of sewing cups with 

horizontal seams, you can sew vertical seams. The only restriction is that the dividing 

seam has to go through the bust apex. There is a notch mark at this point in basic 

patterns for bra. 

A bra with vertical dividing seams does not sit as well as a bra with horizontal dividing 

seams. In the case of horizontal dividing seams it it possible to cut the cup pieces in 

different directions with respect to the elasticity of the fabric. (Refer to paragraph 

"Cutting and seam allowances" above). 

The top pieces of the cups can also be cut of lace or lace fabric. If you divide the cups 

to more than two pieces, try to do it so that the pieces corresponding to the bottom 

piece of the basic cup can be cut with a vertical elasticity of the fabric. 

Sewing a half slip using basic skirt macro 

Sew half slip of elastic lingerie fabric. Use Ladies’ skirt macro (lskirt.mac) to produce 

patterns for it. Use skirt front piece as pattern for front and back piece. Omit darts. Sew 

side seams, fasten waist elastic and hem lace with above instructions. 

Sewing under pants with legs using basic pants' macro 

Use basic pants macro lpants.mac. Give circumference of cuffs a suitable value for this 

purpose (24−28 cm). Mirror front or back piece and position pattern pieces side by side 

at side seams as illustrated in the picture. Reduce front and back by an amount equal 

to the darts and side curve (take this out of the front and back center seams) and draw 

new pattern along existing points. 

Reduce patterns according to elasticity of the fabric. Use PatternMaker command Edit 

− Resize to shrink the entire pattern. In the illustration, a horizontal scaling factor of 0.7 

and a vertical scaling factor of 0.9 have been used. These factors would be used for a 

fabric that stretches 30% horizontally and 10% vertically. Shorten panties to suit your 

purposes. 



This pattern can also be used for leggings or bike shorts. 

Cut waist with seam allowance equal to the width of waist elastic and cuffs with 5 cm 

seam allowance. Sew front center and back center seams, right sides together. Sew 

crotch seam from cuff to cuff. Fasten waist elastic according to instructions above. Fold 

cuff seam allowances inside and topstitch from right side with twin needle at distance of 

3 cm from picot edge. Cut excess fabric away from wrong side of the cuffs. 

Sewing a full slip or a 

camisole using corset 

pattern 

Add ease to corset front and back pieces, 1.5 to 2 cm per piece, leaving space at 

center of the pieces as illustrated in picture. Cut front side panels from breast apex to 

side seam (use Edit − Cut command) and rotate breast dart closed (use Edit − Rotate). 

Draw new patterns according to picture: raise front bust corner 5 cm and slope side 

seams so as to leave 2 cm extra ease at front and back hip. Continue to the desired 

length. Make bottom corners round. 

The amount of ease needed depends on the fabric used. If the garment is too loose, 

take it in at side seams or draw new patterns with less ease at center of the pieces. 

Sew side seams. Finish top edge with one of the edge finishing techniques above. 

Fasten lace appliqués or embroidery if desired. Make and fasten shoulder straps. 

Fasten lace at hem according to above instructions. 

For more instructions and hints please refer to the Camisole Sewing Project on this site. 



Sewing a teddy using 

patterns for corset and 

panties 

Draw patterns for a teddy using patterns for corset and panties. Top part of teddy is 

same as top part of full slip. Add vertical ease of 3 cm at waist. Position panties' pattern 

at this distance from waist. Cut front and back pieces of panties vertically and position 

the pieces matching front/back center and side seams. Leg side seam starts from 

upper hip level (abdomen). 

Add a seam at waist by cutting this piece in two. Do not forget to add seam allowance 

at waist seam. 

Sew front darts of top piece. Sew side seams of top and bottom pieces. Combine top to 

bottom at waist. Sew transparent elastic into the waist seam. Finish top edge and 

edges of leg openings with one of the edge finishing techniques above. 

Finish front and back crotch seams with bias tape or satin tape and fasten hooks or 

snaps in it, or use hook−and−eye tape. Fasten lace appliqués or embroidery if desired. 

Make and fasten shoulder straps. 

RECOMMENDED READING 

The following books can be recommended as excellent sewing books for lingerie. 

Sewing techniques are explained carefully with text and color photos. The books also 

give a lot of ideas for making and decorating lingerie. 

• Kerstin Martensson: Sewing Lingerie (Kwik−Sew's) 

ISBN 0−913212−14−8 

• Kerstin Martensson: Swim & action wear (Kwik−Sew's) 

ISBN 0−913212−18−0 

• Singer Sewing Reference Library: Sewing Lingerie 

ISBN 0−86537−261−2 

If you cannot find these books at your local bookstore, you can order them from either 

of these exellent Internet book stores : 

• http://www.amazon.com (USA) or 

• http://www.bookshop.co.uk (UK) 

Fabrics and accessories 

You can get lingerie fabrics and accessories through Internet , here you have a 

couple of addresses: 

Spandex House 



SewSassy 

Clotilde 

Nancy's Notions 

Fabric.com 






Previous page 

Home page 



Women's panties 

For sewing instructions for PatternMaker macro collection for women's lingerie, click 

here . 

If you do not have the patterns 

If you do not have patterns for panties to your own measurements or do not own 

PatternMaker women's lingerie macro collection , miniature patterns in S, M, L and 

XL sizes are provided here. 

Click here to see and print the miniature patterns. 

Copy and resize the patterns to pattern paper. Please note the grid size of 5X5 cm 

(2X2"). 

Important! The patters include seam allowances of 0,7cm 

(1/4"). Waist allowance is 4 cm ( 1.5" ). 

Important! Use elastic fabric to the panties sewn with these patterns. 

Body measurements used in the 

patterns 

Hip circumference 

S 91 cm 36" 

M 101 cm 40" 

L 112 cm 44" 

XL 122 cm 48" 

Using this link you can download the patterns in full size as a PatternMaker file . With 

your PatternMaker you can print the patterns in full size and erase the sizes you do not 

need. 

PatternMaker Sewing projects Women's panties


If you do not have any PatternMaker program, you can download the freeware version 

free of charge from the website of PatternMaker Software . With the free program 

version you can print the patterns. 

If you have PatternMaker Home , you can change the patterns using PatternMaker 

CAD−tools. 

General sewing instructions for lingerie 

Seams 

Sew the seams with medium zigzag stitch and medium stitch length. The seams do 

not need to be overlocked, if you do not want to, because lingerie jersey does not ravel. 

If you own a serger , sew seams with it. 

Seam allowances 

Important! Please note that the miniature patterns include seam allowances of 

0,7cm (1/4"). Waist allowance is 4 cm ( 1.5" ). These seam allowances are also in the 

patterns dowloaded from this page as a PatternMaker file. 

When cutting the garment pieces add a 0.7 cm (1/4") seam allowance . After having 

sewn the seams trim them to their half width. 

Waist 

If you use stretch lace to finish the waist of the panties, add to the waist of the 

panties seam allowance equal to the width of the lace. If you use elastic to finish the 

waist , add a seam allowance equal to double width of the elastic + seam allowance. 

The best width for waist elastic is 1.5−3 cm (1/2" − 1"). 

Cut the crotch piece of the panties in two, one from natural fiber fabric, e.g. from 

cotton knit. It will be on the inside of the panties and feels much better against your 

body than fabrics made of synthetic fibers. 

1. Applying 

lace inserts 

Plan the placement of the lace inserts on the pants front. Experiment the best position 

of lace motifs. If you use symmetrical lace inserts, place also the motifs symmetrically. 

Tape lace in place and stitch along edges through tape with narrow zigzag. Remove 

tape. Cut away fabric under the lace. 

Note! Because you are using stretchy fabric to the panties also the laces have to be 

stretchy. That way the lace will behave in the same way as the fabric when the panties 

are worn. 



2. Sewing the crotch 

Sandwich the front piece of the panties between the crotch pieces right sides together 

and sew with narrow zigzag through the three fabric layers. ( Picture 1 ) Trim seam 

allowance close to stitches. Roll the front and the back pieces of the panties inside the 

crotch pieces as in the photos and sew the back seam of the crotch through all layers 

Trim seam allowances and turn the crotch right side out. 

3. Basting elastics to the leg openings 

Machine baste the elastics to the wrong side of the leg openings. Stretch the elastic 

lightly as you sew. Special pressing feet can be bought for applying elastic to 

garments. 

You'll soon learn, however, to 

stretch the elastic 

appropriately even without a 

special pressing foot. The 

aim is not to stretch the 

elastic too taut. The leg 

openings have been drafted 

according to your 

measurements. Without an 

edge elastic the leg openings 

would, however, flutter 

without control. 

Sew a couple of tests to find out how much to stretch the elastic to get the desired 

amount of gathering. Baste the elastic close to edge to wrong side of a piece of fabric. 

Turn the fabric and the elastic once in and stitch on top of it on right side with 

3−stitch zigzag . Examine the amount of gathering. In the photo to the left there is too 

much gathering in the first half of the test (1) , in the second half of the test (2) the 

amount of the gathering is good. The need to stretch the elastic depends of the 

stretchability of the elastic you are using. 



Compare the test result with ready−made lingerie and try to 

achieve a similar result. But make the comparison only after 

you have sewn the 3−stitch zigzag on the elastic on right side 

of the fabric and trimmed away the excess seam allowance on 

wrong side of the fabric. 

Note! It is important that the elastics are equally long in both leg openings . 

Therefore, after having basted the elastic to the first leg opening, measure the length of 

the elastic and cut an equally long elastic for the other leg opening. 

An alternative is to cut two pieces of elastic long 

enough to feel good when fitted around the subjects 

thigh at the place where the panties leg opening will 

be and to pin the elastics to the leg openings with 

equal intervals before basting them to their places. 

When sewing the sample garment I have used No Hands 

Elastic Wizard which I have ordered from Clotilde's Web 

Shop where it costs US$ 28. If you want to get there, please 

click here . 

4. Sewing side seams 

Sew the side seams of the panties and if needed, trim the seam allowances. 

5. Finishing the leg openings 

Turn the seam allowances of the leg openings with elastics to the wrong side of the 

garment and sew on top of the elastics on the right side with 3−stitch zigzag. Stretch 

lightly when sewing but don't pull. Trim away the excess seam allowance on the wrong 

side of the garment. 



You do not need to remove the 

basting stitches from the leg 

openings. They will break when 

you wear the panties and will 

vanish by themselves. 

6. Applying stretchy lace to the waist 

In the sample garment stretchy lace has been used to finish the waist. Baste it right 

side up on right side of the garment waist. Match the scalloped edge to the raw edge of 

the panties waist (you do remember that you have cut to the panties waist a seam 

allowance corresponding to the width of the stretchy lace). 

Baste along the inner edge of the lace around the waist. 

Overlap lace ends leaving excess length. Stretch the lace 

when basting. Using narrow zigzag stitch across the inner 

edge of the lace from right side through all layers. Trim away 

excess allowance on the wrong side of the garment. 

Using narrow zigzag stitch through the overlapped layers of lace. Follow motif if 

possible. Trim away excess lace from both sides of the garment. 

If you use waist elastic to finish the waist, baste it to the 

wrong side of the waist. Match the top edge of the elastic to 

the raw edge of the panties waist. Leave seam allowance 

over. Stretch when basting. Fold the elastic to the wrong side 

of the garment. Sew on the right side of the garment through 

the inner edge of the elastic with 3−stitch zigzag. Trim away 

excess fabric on the wrong side of the garment. 

More design ideas for panties 



Applying lace to edge of garment 

You can cut one or more motifs from lace fabric to decorate the edges of the garment 

as in the photos below. First finish the edge with elastic. Then tape the lace motif on 

top of the edge and sew with narrow zigzag along the edges of the lace motif. Finally, 

trim away fabric (and the edge elastic) under the lace motif on the wrong side. 



Applying lace in the middle of the garment 

You can apply a lace appliqué also in the middle of the garment. Tape it on the fabric, 

zigzag along the edges and trim away fabric under the lace on the wrong side of the 

garment. 

Hint: Consider applying lace appliqués also to other garments than lingerie garments, 

e.g. to front, collar or cuff of a blouse. 

Applying lace on top of a seam 

You can even apply lace on top of a seam in which case you can replace the seam 

with lace. Sew the seam and, if necessary overlock it. Tape the lace on top of the 

seam, zigzag along edges and trim away fabric (inclusive seam) under the lace on the 

wrong side. 



Apply lace insert at hem 

Apply lace on top of the hem seam. Fold hem allowance 

to the wrong side of the garment. Baste. Tape lace on top 

of the basted edge. Using narrow zigzag sew along the 

edges of the lace. Trim away fabric under the lace on the 

wrong side of the garment. 

See also ... 

There also is a PatternMaker sewing project for a matching camisole. 

You'll get instructions of how to draft the patterns using the basic bodice patterns as a 

starting point. Detailed sewing instructions with photos will be provided. 

Click here or use the link at the top of the page. 

A couple of Internet addresses 

If you have difficulties in getting fabrics and notions for lingerie, please refer to the 

following websites 

Spandex House 

SewSassy 

Full Sassy Pattern Boutique 

Clotilde 





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Bra without underwire 

Following the instructions in this sewing project you sew bra without underwire. This 

kind of a bra can be nearly as tight−fitting as a bra with underwire, but it is much easier 

to sew. Furthermore, you do not need to get the underwires which might be difficult. 

Patterns 

The patterns for a bra without underwire can be drafted with the measurements of the 

basic sloper and a couple of additional measurements which are easy to take. For bra 

with underwire much more measurements are needed and they are not always very 

easy to take. 

If you do not have bra patterns nor do you own the 

PatternMaker lingerie macro collection, you can order 

personal bra patterns at only US$ 10. If you want to 

order the patterns, please contact me by email. The 

patterns will be delivered to you as PatternMaker files 

by email. You can print the patterns with PatternMaker 

− if you do not own it you can get the free demo 

version from this site. 

If you have PatternMaker Home or one of the other CAD versions of the program, you 

can use the patterns just like you would use any other PatternMaker patterns. You can 

alter them, join them to other PatternMaker patterns etc. You could − for example − join 

the bra patterns to the patterns of panties to get patterns for a bodysuit (more about 

this below). 

You get the cups in two versions, horizontal and vertical cut. You can later on make 

new cup designs using these basic patterns. To read more about the cup designs, 

please refer to the sewing instructions page for lingerie on this site. 

PatternMaker Sewing projects Bra without underwire


Notions 

As closures you can in stead of the hook−and−eye tape use zipper, buttons, Velcro or 

plastic closures sold for swimwear bikini tops. The closures can be applied to the back 

or to the front of the bra according to your wishes. 

As fabric you can use normal lingerie tricot or 

jersey. I suggest you use elastic fabric. Part of 

the cup can be sewn of stretchy lace or lace 

fabric. You can apply decorations, such as a 

bow, flower or lace appliqués. For ideas refer to 

the sewing projects for camisole and panties on 

this site. To get a firm band, the midriff part 

should always be sewn of double fabric. 

Note! To be able to sew a test garment, always buy extra fabric. The notions can be 

detached from the test garment and used for the final garment. 

Furthermore you need lingerie edge elastic. When you buy it, check that it restores 

the original length after stretching it. There are a lot of bad quality elastic available. 

Consider an alternative to use elastic of contrasting color, that might be the only 

decoration needed for your bra. You can also use normal narrow elastic and sew it 

under the edge of the garment. If you use lace or lace fabric for some parts of the bra, 

it usually is advisable to strengthen its edge with transparent elastic (Framilon). Read 

more about edge elastics and the techniques to attaching them in the sewing 

instructions for lingerie on this site. 

If you want to sew padded bra choose the horizontal cutting option for the cup and 

sew the bottom half of the cup of double fabric. You can the bottom of the cup or the 

entire cup and you can add padding between the lining and the bra, if you want to. The 

simpliest way of making padded bra is to cut the cups from padded fabric. 

Ready made band is sold for shoulder straps. You can also make the shoulder straps 

yourself. For ideas and sewing techniques, please refer to the sewing instructions for 

lingerie on this site. 

Hint: Using two spaghetti shoulder straps for both sides of the bra may look nice. To 

get instructions of how to sew spaghetti shoulder straps, please refer to the sewing 

project for camisole and the sewing instructions for lingerie on this site. You can also 

sew a fabric tube and insert elastic into it. Stretch the elastic inside the tube and 

topstitch the tube with 3 stitch or narrow, medium long zigzag e.g. from the distance of 

the presser foot from both edges. 

Always sew a test garment 

Sewing bra is much easier than you ever have thought. 

Nevertheless, always sew a test garment first. It is 

necessary to check the fitting of the patterns and the scaling 

factors used to reduce the patterns in size. If you are not 

used to sew lingerie, sewing a test garment also lets you 

exercise the sewing techniques. 



If the test garment does not fit well, check which pattern pieces have to be changed 

and how much. Be critical. The aim is to get Very Good Bra Patterns for you to be used 

in many sewing projects. In the picture to the left you see a test garment. Even if the 

bra feels all right when worn by the subject and could be used as such, the fitting is not 

optimal and the patterns need to be changed accordingly. 

After having got good bra patterns for your figure you will be able to sew luxurious bra 

with perfect fit in a couple of hours. After you have learned the sewing techniques it 

may be worth while investing in more expensive fabrics and laces. And once you have 

used bra sewn to your own measurements, you never again want to wear anything 

else. This is especially true with women who have a prominent bust and who need 

extra support for it but find it difficult to get well−fitting ready made bra. 

Cutting 

If you choose the horizontal cut option for the cups, cut the bottom pieces so that the 

direction of stretch of the fabric is horizontal. Cut the top piece of the cup so that the 

direction of stretch of the fabric is vertical. The top pieces of the cups can also be cut 

from lace or lace fabric. If you make the entire cup of lace, consider lining it with elastic 

gauze sold for this purpose (e.g. under trade mark Spandex). 

Cut the midriff pieces in two copies of elastic fabric. 

Sewing 

Sew the seams with narrow (1−1.5 mm), medium long (2−3 mm) zigzag or serger. Trim 

seam allowances near stitches if necessary. Use 3 stitch zigzag or narrow (1−1,5 mm), 

medium long (2−3 mm) zigzag to topstitch. 

Always machine baste the seams first. After you see that the seam is all right you can 

finish it with zigzag. It is almost impossible to unravel zigzag neatly. You do not need to 

unravel the machine basting stitches, they will break when you use the garment and 

wear away. 



Sew the midriff pieces together at 

bottom edge (picture 1A) and at 

front center top edge (picture 1B), 

right side against right side. Turn 

the piece right side out and 

topstitch with 3−stitch zigzag along 

these edges. 

Sew dividing seam of cups (picture 1C) and topstitch. Be careful not to stretch the 

seams when topstitching. Loosen the pressure of the presser foot a bit if necessary. 

If you apply bones to the bra band, sew casings for them to the midriff piece according 

to markings on the patterns − or to places where you want to have them. You can draw 

guiding lines to the wrong side of the bra band with pencil (picture 2A). The marks will 

vanish when the bra is washed for the first time. 

You can buy webbed plastic with caps called Rigilene for the boning purpose (picture 

2B). 

The boning must end 1/2" to 3/4" from 

each end of the finished seams. (picture 

2C). Topstitch Rigilene with 3 stitch 

zigzag on the right side of the garment. 

Bartack at both ends to make sure that 

the band does not move in the casing 

when the garment is worn. The ends of 

Rigilene tape are very sharp and can 

break the fabric. Caps are therefore 

recommended. 

Finish top edges of cups with edge elastics from the CF end of the 

cup dividing seam (if horizontal cutting) or from the mark in the 

pattern (if vertical cutting) to the place where shoulder straps are 

fastened (marked in the patterns) (picture 3A). For applying edge 

elastic please refer to the sewing instructions for lingerie on this 

site. 

Fasten cups to midriff piece (picture 3B), matching notches on cup seams to midriff 

piece. Stretch midriff piece when sewing. If you want the seam to be very neat you can 

cover it with bias tape. If you want to do that, sew the unfolded bias tape into the seam 

matching raw edges, trim seam allowance, fold bias tape on top of the seam and 



edgestitch along other edge (folded). Sew very carefully, the stitch line must stay at 

same distance from and parallel to the cup seam (picture to the right). 

Finish bottom edges of back panels with edge elastics. Sew back panels to cup/midriff 

part (picture 3C) and finish seam allowances with bias tape if you want to. 

Finally, finish the top edges of the back panels (leaving the shoulder straps between 

the elastic and the back panel) and the cups top edges not yet finished with edge 

elastic (picture 3D). Leave excess elastic at the cup corners. 

Fasten hook−and−eye tape or other kind of closures to the ends of the back panels 

(picture 4). Put the bra on and check the correct length of the shoulder straps by 

pinning them to their places at the top edges of the cups. Fasten shoulder straps to the 

cups with two horizontal stitch lines. Fold the excess elastic you left at the cup corners 

under the shoulder straps. 

Hint: When you are sewing a test garment, sew the hook−and−eye tape and the 

shoulder straps lightly to their places with normal sewing machine stitches and use the 

bra for a couple of days. After you have noticed that the bra feels comfortable, 

strengthen the fastening with zigzag. If you find it necessary to change the length or the 

place of the shoulder straps or the length of the bra band, you can still do it easily. 

Hook−and−eye tape and ready made shoulder straps also are too expensive to be 

thrown away with a useless test garment. 

Hint: Shoulder straps may stretch in use and therefore I recommend that you apply 

adjusting mechanism to the shoulder straps (picture 5). Look at your old bra to see 

how the mechanism is applied to the shoulder strap. The easiest way to fasten the 

rings to the cups is to fold the extra elastic left at the bra top edge to the wrong side 

and put the ring in between. Fasten the elastic to the cup with two horizontal stitch lines. 



Other ideas to use bra patterns 

Lengthen the bra band to waist and join the patterns to the patterns of panties. You'll 

get patterns for a bodysuit. If you do not have the pant patterns you can use the 

miniature patterns included in the panties' sewing project on this site or order them 

from me. Make a hook−and−eye fastening construction at the crotch of the pants − that 

way you do not need to undress the entire bodysuit when you pop in the ladies' room. 

Sew a waist length bra of e.g. denim and use it under a jacket as a summer top. Or 

sew it of festive fabric and use it with a long or a short evening skirt, maybe with a 

bolero. 

Lingerie fabrics and notions from the Internet 



Spandex House 

SewSassy 

Clotilde 



From SewSassy you can buy bra underwire cut to length according to you needs . 

They also sell a suberb Microfiber fabric for lingerie at a price of US$ 5.98 per yd. 

This 4−way stretch fabric feels and looks like pre−war silk stockings and ideal for home 

sewn lingerie. There are 4 colors available: chestnut brown, soft wine. parchment and 

plum. One of them is beige (parchment), others are quite dark. 






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Women's Camisole 

Patterns 

Draft patterns for camisole using women's basic bodice as basis. Choose the dart 

option to side seam. 

These patterns can only be used for camisoles sewn of elastic fabrics. If you are 

going to sew the camisole of non−elastic fabric, use ladies' blouse macro where you 

can choose among three ease categories. 

Seams 

Sew the seams with medium zigzag stitch and medium stitch length. The seams do 

not need to be overlocked, if you do not want to, because lingerie jersey does not ravel. 

If you own a serger , sew seams with it. 

Seam allowances 

When cutting the garment pieces add a 0.7 cm (1/4") seam allowance . After having 

sewn the seams trim them to their half width. 

Edgings 

Top edge of camisole: Cut 5 cm (2") wide binding strip from knit fabric crosswise 

grain. Machine baste the strip to the right side of the of the garment right sides 

PatternMaker Sewing projects Women's Camisole


together. Match raw edges. Sew through shoulder straps on back. Start at one front 

corner and stop at the other front corner. Leave some extra length at the beginning and 

the end of the binding. 

Fold binding over the edge to the wrong side of the garment. Sew with 3−step zigzag 

on the right side along the edge. Trim away excess fabric on the wrong side of the 

edge. Fold excess length of the binding at the front corners to the wrong side of the 

garment. 

Hem: You can finish the hem the same way you finished the top edges. Stretch binding 

less than at top. Overlap the binding on one side seam. 

Another technique: A very neat edge binding is sewn in the following way. Fold a 2" 

wide binding strip lengthwise into two wrong side in and sew it to the wrong side of the 

garment's edge, raw edges matching. Use 1/2" wide seam allowance. Trim seam 

allowance. Fold binding around the edge to the right side of the garment along stitch 

line and edgestitch along the folded edge. Refer to the drawing below. 

If you want to binding to reduce the edge, stretch the binding when applying it. If the 

binding must stretch a lot, you can edtestitch it with 3−stitch zigzag. You can sew the 

edgestitching entirely on the binding or only half of it on the binding. 

If the fabric used to the edge binding is not elastic enough, sew transparent 

elastic into the seam. 

Hint: You can use contrasting colour fabric to the binding strip. 

There are instructions of how to sew a neat bound edging also in the general sewing 

instructions. 

Lace decorations 

Use narrow zigzag stitches and shorter than medium stitch length when sewing 

laces and lace appliqués to lingerie. Use Magic transparent tape to hold the lace or 

the appliqués on the fabric, stitch close to the edges of the lace and finally trim away 

fabric on the wrong side of the garment under the lace or the appliqué. Apply lace to a 

garment piece before sewing it to another garment piece. 



Applying lace to corners 

When applying lace to corners of lingerie garments fold the lace according to picture. 

Place lace right side up on the right side of the garment. Match the scalloped edge of 

the lace to the raw edge of the garment. 

Use pins in corners to shape the lace. Using narrow zigzag stitches sew along the 

inner edge of the lace through tape. Trim away the fabric under the lace on the wrong 

side of the garment. Finally, stitch across the corners through layers of lace. Remove 

tape. Trim away excess lace in the corners. 

Applying lace to curves 

Place the lace on the fabric right sides facing. Match the scalloped edge of the lace to 

the raw edge of the garment. 

Make clips to the lace from the inner edge, following motifs if possible. Overlap and 

flatten the lace. Tape or pin to place. 

Using narrow zigzag and stitch along the inner edge of the lace through tape. Trim 

away the fabric under the lace. Zigzag through overlapped layers of lace, follow motifs 

if possible. Remove tape. Trim away excess lace close to stitches. 

Mittered slit opening 



Place the lace wrong side up on the right side of the garment. Fold it according to 

picture. Use pins in corners to shape the lace. Using narrow zigzag stitches sew along 

the inner edge of the lace through tape. Remove tape. 

Trim away the fabric under the lace on the wrong side of the garment. Trim away 

excess lace in the corner on the wrong side. If you want to, continue using lace at the 

hem, refer to the picture. 

Sewing instructions for camisole 

1. Apply lace to top edge of front piece 

Fold front piece of the camisole along CF line. Fold lace in half right sides together and 

place on the CF−line of the top edge of the front piece. Match scalloped edges of the 

lace to raw edges of camisole. Cut lace along CF line leaving 0.7 cm (1/4") seam 

allowance. Using narrow zigzag sew the CF seam of the lace. 

Another technique is illustrated in the drawing above. 

Unfold front piece and lace. Tape lace on the top edge of the 

garment matching scalloped edge of lace to raw edge of camisole. 

Sew along the inner edge of the lace through tape. Remove tape. 

Cut away fabric under the lace near stitches. 

2. Sew bust darts 

Sew bust darts with zigzag or serger. Trim seam allowances near stitches. 



3. Sew side seams 

Sew side seams of the garment. Trim seam allowances. Fold hem allowance to the 

wrong side of the garment and sew from right side with 3−stitch zigzag and trim seam 

allowance. 

4. Sew shoulder straps 

Cut a fabric strip twice as wide as you want the shoulder strap to be + seam allowance. 

Fold the strip in half lengthwise wrong side up and sew the seam with narrow zigzag or 

serger. Trim seam allowance if necessary near stitches. 

The easiest way to turn the tube is to use an ordinary hair pin. Cut a small hole on fold 

about 1.5 cm (1/4") from one end. Insert the pin through the hole and into the tube as in 

the picture. Guide the hair pin through the strap to the other end. Trim the end where 

you cut the hole. 

5. Finish top edges 

Remove seam allowance from the top edges of the front and the back piece of the 

camisole. 



Pin shoulder straps to their places on the back piece. 

Cut 5 cm (2") wide binding strip from knit fabric crosswise grain. Machine baste the 

strip to the right side of the of the garment right sides together. Match raw edges. Sew 

through shoulder straps on back. Start at one front corner and stop at the other front 

corner. Leave some extra length at the beginning and the end of the binding. 

Fold binding over the edge to the wrong side of the garment. Sew with 3−step zigzag 

on the right side along the edge. Trim away excess fabric on the wrong side of the 

edge. Fold excess length of the binding at the front corners to the wrong side of the 

garment. 

6. Attach shoulder straps to front corners 

Pin the shoulder straps to the wrong side of the front corners under the folded edge 

binding and try the camisole on. Adjust the length if necessary. Sew two vertical rows 

of narrow zigzag stitches across the right side of the the front corners through the 

straps. Trim excess shoulder straps if necessary. 

6. Sew hem 

Sew binding to the hem the same way you finished the top edges. Stretch binding 

lightly when sewing. Overlap the binding on one side seam. 

7. Sew slits 



Sew mittered slits with lace to bottom of side seams. Fold lace according to the photos, 

tape in place and sew with narrow zigzag along the inner edge of the lace. Leave extra 

length for the lace hem allowance. Trim away fabric under the lace and extra lace on 

corners. Fold lace seam allowance to the wrong side and zigzag on right side. 

Another design idea 

Cut one or more motifs of lace fabric to decorate the edges of the garment as in the 

other camisole. First finish the edge with a binding strip. Then tape the lace motif on 

top of the edge and sew with narrow zigzag along the inner edges of the lace motif. 

Finally, trim away fabric (and the edge binding) under the lace motif on the wrong side. 

Shape the top edge of the camisole if necessary to match the shape of the lace. 

Apply a lace motif to the hem, too, like in the sample garment. 



If the lace is very soft or slack, sew clear elastic to the wrong side of the top edge of the 

lace. First machine baste it to the wrong side of the lace. Stretch the elastic when 

basing. Then zigzag on the right side on the elastic. 

If the binding fabric is not elastic enough, you can apply invisible elastic in the binding 

seam. 

A couple of Internet addresses 



Spandex House 

SewSassy 

Clotilde 










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Sewing pajamas 

Here you get instructions of how this garment was designed and sewn. I used tricot as 

the fabric but the garment has enough ease to be sewn of non−elastic fabric as well. Of 

course, this model could also can be used as a T−shirt−shorts−combination, if you 

want to. 

The design of this garment is a very simple one. I only used two−color fabrics strips to 

finish the neck opening, sleeve ends and leg ends. For the sleeves I used fabric of 

contrasting color. 

Which patterns to use? 

Use the women's basic macros for pants and shirt. Make the 

alterations to the patterns according to the picture. The 

alterations can be done manually after you have printed the 

patterns or using PM editing tools before printing, whichever 

method you feel more comfortable. 

The pants were cut to knee length and the legs made 4 cm (1.6") wider on both sides 

of the knee. At the crotch height the legs were made 3 cm (1.2") wider at side seams. 

The waistband for an elastic waist construction was cut to the top edge of the pants. 

Leave darts, pockets and zipper facing off. 

For the top part of the pajamas the shirt macro was used. The neck opening was cut to 

V−shape, refer to the picture. The button extension was left off. 

Alternatively you can use the jacket or the dress and the pants macros included in the 

women's second macro collection (picture below). The L2−jacket and the L2−dress 

macros have (among other things) options for V−shape neck and dropped sleeve. I 

made the top part rather long, 40 cm (15.5") from waist to hem because I like to hide 

my non−existing waist in long and straight tops. If you use the shirt macro where the 

length of the garment cannot be typed in, please check the length and if you want to, 

make the garment longer or shorter by moving the hem vertices. 

Remove the back shoulder dart as in the picture. 

The L2−pants.mac has an option for (normal, tight and) wide legs as well as an option 

for elastic waist so the legs of these patterns do not need any widening at the hip and 

at the waist (picture below). These options are also included in the women's 

supermacro for pants . If you have that macro, you can use it. 

PatternMaker Sewing projects Sewing pajamas


Sewing 

The only decoration in this garment are the neck opening and the hems finished with a 

two−colored fabric stripe made from the fabric used for the garment. 



To make the two−colored fabric stripe, I have cut strips from the turquoise fabric in 

width of 5 cm (2") and from the white fabric in width of 3 cm (1.2"). I love to use the 

rotary cutter and mat for this kind of works. It makes it easy to cut strips that are exactly 

of the width you want to. 

Join the strips to a long continuous strip sewing them together with narrow seam 

allowances. Iron the seams. Machine−baste these strips together folded lengthwise in 

two and the raw edges matching (picture below). 



I found it easier first to iron the wider strip in two and then basting the narrower strip to 

it folding the narrower strip when basting. 

As a result you get a two−colored fabric strip to be used for the finishing of the edges of 

the garment. 

After having sewn one shoulder seam sew the two−colored strip to the neck opening. 

After having done this clip the seam allowance at the neck opening at the V−neck 

corner. Sew a small dart at the V−neck corner. 



I used a serger to connect the stripe to the neck opening. If you don't have a serger, 

sew the strip to the neck opening with a sewing machine using a narrow zigzag−stitch 

and overlock the seam with wider zigzack. After having fastened the stripe to the neck 

opening sew the other shoulder seam. 

Sew the stripe to the sleeve ends correspondingly and fasten the sleeves to the 

armscyes. Sew one sleeve seam and one side seam continuously from sleeve end to 

hem. Fasten the two−colored stripe to the hem. Then sew the other sleeve seam and 

side seam. 

Fold the seam allowances of all two−colored stripes inside and topstitch the garment 

from the right side using a double needle (picture below). 



Sew front and back crotch seams and both side seams of the pants. Fasten the 

two−colored stripe to the leg ends and topstitch with double needle from the right side 

of the garment. Then sew the inside seams of the legs continuously from one leg end 

to the other. 

Fold in the casing for the elastic at the top of the pants and fasten it with double needle 

on the right side. Cut away the excess seam allowance from the wrong side (picture 

below). Leave a small opening for threading the elastic. Thread the elastic and close 

the opening for the elastic. 

Copyright 1999 Leena Lähteenmäki, Järenpää, Finland 





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Sewing instructions for men's garments 


Sewing instructions: 

Measurements 

Measuring and fitting are generally simpler for men's wear than for ladies' 

garments. Body shapes are simpler, fit is looser and there are fewer 

measurements. See the measurement chart for the measurements you will use 

for the men's macros. We suggest you make a fitting muslin at least when 

sewing the first jacket or vest. If you don't, you can provide for alterations 

after the garment is complete by adding extra seam allowance. 

Ease 

We do not include an ease chart for the men's garments because it is usually 

not necessary to make many ease adjustments for men's garments. 

Remember that the macros automatically add fitting and styling ease. 

General Sewing instructions 

All the basic instructions for making and sewing patterns from macros are on 

the general sewing instructions page. The instructions on this page contain 

additional information you need to sew the men's macro set. Pants can be 

sewn according to sewing instructions for ladies' pants. 

Sewing a shirt 

Iron interfacing on button extension. Fold seam allowance at front edges 

inwards 1/2 inch (1 cm) and baste (Picture 1). Fold again with right side of 

fabric inside, along button extension fold lines. Stitch button extensions 

across bottom edges (Picture 2). Turn button extensions out and sew along 

folded seam allowance edge on wrong side of fabric. 

Sewing instructions for men's garments


Sew buttonholes. Sew on buttons. 

If you sew breast pockets to the shirt, iron interfacing to breast pockets. Fold 

seam allowances inwards and topstitch pocket mouth. Sew pocket in place, 

edgestitching it simultaneously. 

Fold the back piece pleat according to marks and baste. Place yoke pieces 

right side against right side and sandwich the back piece between the yoke 

pieces (Picture 3) . Sew through all thicknesses. Open the seam and iron. 

Fold the back piece between the yoke pieces. Then fold the front pieces 

between the yoke pieces, wrong sides of the yoke pieces out (Picture 4). (It is 

a bit tight, but you can manage). Sew along the front shoulder edges of the 

yoke through all thicknesses. Turn the pieces to their right position and iron. 

Edgestitch the seams. 

Join sleeves to shell, right sides together (Picture 5). Overlock and iron the 

seam allowances towards the shell. Edgestitch the seams. 



Sew sleeve seam and side seam continuously from sleeve cuff to shell hem 

(Picture 6) . Overlock and iron. 

Use general instructions to attach collar and sleeve cuffs. Fold hem 

allowance twice and sew. Sew buttonholes. Sew buttons on button extension 

and on collar stand. 

SEWING A JACKET 

When cutting the pieces, do not add seam allowance to pocket mouth. 

Iron interfacing to jacket's front facing and back neck. Interfacing is also 

ironed to under collar and pocket welts or flaps. If you want the jacket to be 

very "stiff," iron interfacing to jacket's front piece as well. It is also good to iron 

interfacing to jacket's hem − set it in just beyond the hem seam allowance. 

Only vertical body seams need to be overlocked. Collar, shoulder and sleeve 

seams do not need to be overlocked. Press all seams after sewing and 

overlocking them. 

Add extra width for a pleat to the back lining piece (Picture 1). 

Sew front waist dart (Picture 2a). Stitch pocket mouth edges together with 

temporary zigzag stitches (Picture 2b). To strengthen pocket mouth, iron 

interfacing to its wrong side (Picture 2c). Do the same with the section of 

pocket mouth on the side panel (Picture 2d). Sew front piece to side panel, 



right sides of material together. 

How to sew pockets is instructed in the general sewing instructions . The kind 

of pocket openings to use, and exactly where to place them, are styling 

decisions for you to make. If you sew a patch pocket at hip, place it so that it 

covers the zigzagged pocket mouth. Attach welt, buttonhole or flap pocket 

onto zigzagged pocket mouth . 

Sew back pieces to front/side piece and back seam, right side against right side. 

The sleeves come in two pieces, top and bottom. Place bottom piece on top of upper 

sleeve, right side against right side, and sew from corner of sleeve cap to where button 

placket begins (Picture 3a). Continue from there basting along the button placket fold 

line (Picture 3b). Then sew around button placket (Picture 3c). Press button placket 

under upper sleeve and remove basting. Fold inside and press seam allowance at 

cuff. Check that length of sleeves is correct, then sew buttons on button placket. Sew 

them through all layers of fabric. Buttonholes are optional. 

Easestitch sleeve cap, allowing a seam allowance of 1/4 inch (1/2 cm) (Picture 3d−e ). 

Sew front seam of sleeves. Turn sleeves right side out and jacket wrong side out. 

Place sleeves inside jacket (right side against right side) so that sleeves' shoulder 

marks match with jacket shoulder seams. Insert sleeves by sewing along easestiches 

Adjust ease by pulling on the stitching in the ease cap. Sew sleeve cap to jacket. If 

there tends to be too much ease at sleeve cap (some fabrics tolerate more ease than 

others do), you can adjust this by placing sleeves lower at armpit. There should be as 

much ease as possible, but no wrinkles at cap seams, when done. 

HINT: In the advanced tutorial I give instructions of how to use a facing in sleeve cap 

which helps to get nicely formed sleeve heads.. Click here . 

When cutting collar pieces, cut upper collar about 1/4 inch (1/2 cm) bigger at outer 

edges. This forces the collar to turn down to its correct position when it is done. 

Place under collar on upper collar, right side against right side, and sew along edges 

Picture 4). Trim seam allowances and cut corners before turning the collar right side 

out. Turn collar right side out and press. Edgestitch. 



Place collar on jacket neckline, with right side of under collar piece against jacket's right 

side. Sew from shoulder (Picture 5a) to lapel corner (Picture 5b). Cut jacket's neck 

seam allowance at corner (Picture 5c). 

Now turn jacket's lapel under the collar and sew from lapel corner to lapel notch 

mark (Picture c−d). After having sewn both ends of collar to lapels, attach the rest of 

the collar to jacket's back neck. If you have difficulties in this (collar will be a bit longer 

than neck), first Easestich jacket neck at distance of normal seam allowance. 

The entire lining is assembled separately as follows, then attached to the rest of the 

jacket as a unit. Sew lining's back seam at edge. Baste extra width along back center 

seam to make a soft pleat. Iron the pleat, then remove the basted stitches. 

Sew front pieces of lining to side panels and front/side pieces to back piece. Fold hem 

of lining in twice and sew. The lining should be an inch or so (about 2 cm) shorter 

than the jacket when done. attach jacket's front facing to lining's front edges, right side 

against right side. Sew shoulder seams. Attach sleeves to lining as you did with 

jacket shell. 

To join jacket and lining, place the lining on top of the jacket with right side against right 

side. Leave collar in between and upside down. Sew a continuous seam as follows: 

across hem of front facing, along one front edge, around neck to other front edge and 

finally across other front facing. Leave jacket hem open. Snip seam allowance at 

starting point of lapels and at neck seam at about 1 inch (2 cm) intervals. Cut corners 

diagonally (including at front of hem) so that you will be able to turn it right side out.. 

Turn lining inside jacket. Open seams well and press. Edgestitch. Attach lining to 

sleeve ends. 

Sew hem with invisible stitches. Sew buttonholes. Sew on buttons. Do the final 

pressing. 

SEWING VEST 



The following uses a rare and ingenious 

way of lining a vest, which we have been 

very pleased with. The same method can 

be used for lining ladies' and children's 

vests. 

Vests are made with both a lining and a shell. For vests that are worn with a jacket, 

both shell and lining in back are usually made of lining material. Iron interfacing to front 

facing and to armscye facings. 

Zigzag armscye facings onto linings, wrong side of facings against right side of the 

lining (Picture 3a). 

Sew darts closed on front shell (Picture 1) and lining. Sew front facing to front lining 

right side against right side (Picture 2). Place front pieces onto linings, right side 

against right side and sew armscye seams (Picture 3b). Leave side seam raw and 

sew bottom (Picture 3c) and front edges (Picture 3d). Leave shoulder seam raw. 

Turn front pieces right side out and press seams well. Edgestich armscyes, bottom 

and front. 

Sew back darts closed on back shell and lining (Picture 4a). Sew back seam of back 

shell and lining (Picture 4b). Iron interfacing to back neck facing and armscye facings 

(Picture 5). Zigzag facings onto neck (Picture 6a) and to armscyes (Picture 6c) of 

back lining, with their wrong side against lining's right side. Place back piece of shell 

onto back piece of lining, right sides together, and sew along hem (Picture 6c). Leave 

all other seams raw. Turn back piece right side out and press hem seam well. 



Sandwich front pieces between back piece and back lining as follows: Place front 

pieces between back piece and back lining. Right side of front piece is against right 

side of back and right side of front lining is against right side of back lining. Pin side 

and shoulder seams through all layers of fabric. Sew a continuous seam along side 

seam (Picture 7a), back armscye (Picture 7b), shoulder (Picture 7c) and part of neck 

(Picture 7d). When you come to corners feel the place where front and back pieces 

meet with your fingers and stop sewing exactly on that place (Picture 7e). 

Sew other side seam, armscye, shoulder and part of neck same way. This way, you 

sew the front and back side seams and shoulder seams simultaneously. Sew other 

side of the vest similarly. Leave part of neck unsewn, as instructed. It will form a hole 

at the back neck for turning the vest right side out. 

Turn the vest right side out. Close hole at back neck by hand. Sew buttonholes. Sew 

on buttons. Edgestitch if desired. Do the final pressing. 






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Sewing instructions for children's garments 


Sewing instructions: General | Ladies' garments | Ladies'_lingerie 

Maternity and nursing garments | Men's garments | Children's garments 

Measurements 

It's not usually necessary to take full measurements for baby clothes. A 

picture instructing the measuring is included for cases when custom measurements are 

required. 

First, the macro asks you to choose a standard size based on your baby's height. You 

have to choose a size even if you plan to type in custom measurements. Select the 

choice that is closest to your subject's height. The next dialog box shows you the 

standard measurements for that height. (Some of the macros have two dialog boxes for 

measurements.) To accept these measurements, just click the "OK" button. If you 

want to use custom measurements instead, enter the correct numbers and then click 

"OK". 

Ease 

We do not include an ease chart for the babies' garments because it should not be 

necessary to adjust ease much for babies' clothing. Baby clothes are deliberately 

designed for a loose fit. Some macros give you a choice of "Normal" or "Wide" ease, 

and some select the ease automatically. Wide eases are for garments with very loose 

fit, or for outer garments that are to be worn over other clothes. Enter the correct 

measurements, and the macro will add the ease. 

Sewing a T−shirt 

Check that waist, neck and cuff ribbings are of suitable length. The correct length 

depends on how elastic the ribbing fabric is. 

Sew and overlock shoulder seams with right sides together (Picture 1). 

Join sleeves to shell, right sides together (Picture 2). Overlock. Sew sleeve seam 

and side seam continuously from sleeve cuff to shell hem, right sides together (Picture 

3). Overlock.. 

Sewing instructions for children's garments


Sew ends of waist ribbing together, to form a ring. 

Fold lengthwise in two, wrong side inside. Divide the 

circumference of the ring into four equal parts and 

mark them with pins through both layers on the cut 

edges. Do the same with the bottom of the shell. 

Then pin together corresponding marks and stitch 

(Picture 4), stretching the ribbing to fit. Shell should 

be inside out now, and the ribbing is inside it. Sew 

and overlock. 

Attach neck and cuff ribbings in the same way. 

Sewing a dress 

The dress illustrated is constructed with a placket in front. Variations can use buttons 

or a back closure (zipper or buttons). If you want to sew a collar on the dress, refer to 

general sewing instructions and leave out the neck facings. 

Sew front center seam from hemline to where the button placket begins (Picture 

1a). Fold button placket right side inwards and sew bottom edge from fold to center 

front . Cut seam allowances diagonally here (Picture 1b). 



Iron interfacing to pocket pieces 

(Picture 1c). Turn seam allowances 

inwards and baste. Topstitch top of 

pocket. Sew pockets to their places 

on front pieces simultaneously 

edgestitching them. The exact 

location of the pockets is a styling 

decision for you to make. 

Sew and overlock shoulder seams (Picture 2a) and side seams (Picture 2b), right 

sides together. 

Easestitch sleeve cap with normal seam allowance (Picture 3a). Sew and overlock 

sleeve seams. Turn shell wrong side out and sleeves right side out. Place sleeves 

inside shell (Picture 3b) and match sleeve shoulder marks with shell's shoulder. Pull 

the ends of the edgestitching threads to gather ease in. Sew and overlock. 

Sew front and back neck facing pieces together at the shoulder 

(Picture 4). Place facing on neck of shell, right sides together. 

Fold front button placket, right side inwards, under the facing. 

Sew placket to facing. Snip seam allowances at 3/4 inch (2 cm) 

intervals and turn facing inwards. Edgestitch or stitch through 

seam allowances only near seam. Strengthen bottom of button 

placket with diagonal stitch line thorough all thicknesses on right 

side 



Sew and attach sleeve cuffs according to general sewing 

instructions . Fold hem allowance twice and sew. Sew 

buttonholes. Sew on buttons. 

Sewing a shirt 

For the body of the shirt, follow the sewing instructions for man's shirt . Use general 

sewing instructions to attach collar and sleeve cuffs. Fold hem allowance twice and 

sew. Sew buttonholes. Sew on buttons. 

Sewing pants 

Sew center seam at crotch from leg to where 

zipper placket begins (Picture 1a). Attach 

zipper according to general sewing 

instructions . Place pocket lining on top of 

pants pocket corner, right sides together 

Picture 1b), and sew along pocket mouth 

(Picture 1c).. Snip seam allowance at 

intervals of about 3/4 in (2 cm). Turn facing 

inside and topstitch pocket mouth twice. 

Place pocket side body piece under pocket lining piece edges matching (Picture 2). 

Sew and overlock along round and bottom edges. Pocket side seams are attached to 

the pants' side seam when sides are sewn. 

Sew back waist dart. Sew center back seam, with elastic stitches if possible (Picture 

3). 

Place front and back pants on top of each other, right sides together, and sew along 

side seams (Picture 4a) and leg seams continuously from cuff to cuff (Picture 4b). 

Fold front pleats soft and pin. Attach waist band according to general sewing 

instructions . 

Fold cuff seam allowances twice and sew. Sew button and buttonhole on waistband. 

PANTS VARIATIONS: 



For pants with elastic waist band use pants' 

macro version 2, (bpants2.mac, cpants2.mac). 

Omit zipper and back darts. Sew ends of 

waistband together to form a ring. Overlock one 

long edge and sew other edge to pants waist, 

right sides together. Press seam allowance 

upwards. Fold waist band horizontally in two 

and sew along previous seam line. Leave a hole 

for inserting a rubber band. After inserting a 

rubber band close hole. 

If you want to sew jeans (cjeans.mac, only for children over 2 years), sew and overlock 

back yoke's back seam and back pant's back center seam. Sew and overlock yoke to 

pants, right sides together. Topstitch seam twice. Put decorative stitching, if 

desired, on back pockets now and then attach them. Topstitch leg seam (from cuff to 

cuff) twice. To be able to do this, sew side seams only after you have done this. 

Otherwise follow sewing instructions for normal pants above. 

Sewing a sweater (see illustration for T−shirt) 

Sew side pockets to front pieces according to general 

sewing instructions . For the body of the sweater, follow 

the instructions for T−shirt but do not attach ribbings. 

Sew and attach hood according to general sewing instructions . Make small 

buttonholes in front piece, on both sides of center front and 2 − 1/2 inches (6 cm) from 

bottom edge. These are the holes for the drawstring. Strengthen buttonholes by 

ironing interfacing to wrong side of fabric, then sew buttonholes. Fold hem allowance 

inwards 1 − 1/2 inches (4 cm) and sew on right side with twin needle to form a tube for 

drawstring. 

Fold sleeve ends inwards and sew on right side with twin needle. 

Sewing a vest with hood 

Overlock all edges of yoke pieces for shoulder and neck 

seams. Do the same with the front piece edges to which 

yoke is to be joined. Fold button plackets of front yoke 

inwards along fold line. Fold front piece's yoke seam 

allowances inwards and baste (cut seam allowance 

diagonally at corners to allow it to fold). To strengthen the 

corner to be cut, sew line of stitches around corners at width 

of seam allowance from edge. Place yoke pieces are on top 

of each other so that their center fronts match (= button 

plackets on top of each other). Then place front piece on top 

of the yoke. Baste and sew yoke to front piece, 

simultaneously edgestitching it. 

Sew and overlock shoulder and side seams of shell and armscye facings. Place 

facings onto armscyes of shell, right sides together. Sew and overlock. Snip the 



seam allowances at 3/4 inch (2 cm) intervals. Turn facings inwards and edgestitch. 

Hand sew facings with small stitches to shell's shoulder and side seams. 

Sew and attach hood according to general sewing instructions . Make small 

buttonholes in front piece, on both sides of center front and 2 − 1/2 inches (6 cm) from 

bottom edge. These are the holes for the drawstring. Strengthen buttonholes by 

ironing interfacing to wrong side of fabric, then sew buttonholes. Fold hem allowance 

inwards 1 − 1/2 inches (4 cm) and sew on right side with double needle to form a tube 

for drawstring. 

Sewing a bibsuit (overall) 

Iron interfacing to outer half of the button plackets and pocket pieces. 

Sew front center seam from leg seam to where button placket begins (Picture 1a ). 

Fold button placket right side inwards and sew bottom edge from fold to center front 

(Picture 1b). Cut seam allowance diagonally at center front(Picture 1c). Turn out. 

Place button plackets on top of each other, center fronts matching, and sew over 

bottom edge though all layers of fabric. 

Turn the seam allowances of the pocket pieces inwards and baste (Picture 1d). 

Topstitch pocket mouths. Sew pockets to their places on front pieces, simultaneously 

edgestitching them. 



Sew back center seam, with elastic stitches if possible (Picture 

2). 

Place front and back pieces on top of each other, right 

sides together. Sew side seams (Picture 3a). Sew 

leg seam continuously from cuff to cuff (Picture 3b). 

Iron interfacing to the wrong sides of the facings. Sew side seams of facings. 

Fold button placket along folding line, right sides together (Picture 4a). Place facings 

on it on overall's neck, right sides together. Sew along top edges continuously from 

center front, around shoulder strips and along armscyes to back shoulder strips etc. 

(Picture 4b). 

Snip the seam allowance along the curved section at intervals of about 3/4 inch or 2 

cm. Cut corners of seam allowances. Turn facings and shoulder strips inside and 

edgestitch. Strengthen bottom of button placket with diagonal stitch lines thorough all 

thicknesses on right side (Picture 4c) 

Sew buttonholes to back shoulder strips. Sew buttons on front shoulder strips. 

Fold leg ends two times and sew. 

If you sew an overall with sleeves follow the sewing instructions for T−shirt to sew top 



part of the overall. For patterns with hoods, attach hood according to general sewing 

instructions . Attach sleeves according to instructions given for T−shirt. 




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Baby's tailcoat 

This is how Carolus got this fine tailcoat suit for his christening ceremony. 

The suit has been designed and sewn by textile teacher Kirsi Kostamo ( 

kirsi.kostamo@pp.inet.fi ) at the Tuusula Community College, Finland using 

PatternMaker babies' patterns . 

The shirt 

The shirt was sewn using the Babies' shirt patterns (bshirt.mac) to the waist length. The 

pants were sewn to the hem of the shirt at the waist as explained below. 

PatternMaker Sewing projects Baby's tailcoat


The pants and the vest 

were combined to the shirt using the patterns of the babies' sleeveless suit 

(bbibsuit.mac). Into the combining seam of the shirt and the pants at the waist, a casing 

was sewn and a rubber band was inserted in it. This helps the garment to sit better on 

the baby. 

For the vest only the front parts were sewn and its shoulder and side seams were sewn 

into the corresponding seams of the shirt. 

The jacket 

was designed using the babies' shirt patterns (bshirt.mac) adding the collars, the lapels 

and the tail to it. To get sufficient amount of ease to the tailcoat, the shirt patterns were 

selected as one size bigger than would have been needed for Carolus. In the 

PatternMaker babies' macros the sizes can be chosen according to the height of the 

baby from 68 to 98 cm, with 4 cm intervals. 

Fitting 

It is very difficult to try the garment on a baby, so use another fitting garment of the 

baby to check that the measurements of the garment will be all right. 



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PatternMaker Sewing projects Baby's tailcoat

Pattern collection for newborn babies 

Download pattern collection 

To buy and download the pattern collection please 

click here. 

Sewing instructions, general 

Seams 

Sew seams with narrowish medium long zigzag or with serger. Trim seam allowances if 

necessary. 

Facings 

Overlock the edges of the facings (sleepsuit bibs and body crotch) with zigzag or with 

serger. Iron interfacing to the wrong sides of the facings if necessary. Pin the facings in 

place to the wrong side of the garment and attach when you sewing the bound edges. 

Hems and casings for elastics 

Sew hems and waistline casings with double needle from right side of the garment. 

Trim seam allowances if necessary. 

Edgings 

Finish raw edges with bindings as follows. Cut 6 cm (2 3/8") wide strip from elastic 

fabric (same fabric as you use for the garment or other fabric) so that the fabric 

stretches horizontally. Fold the strip lengthwise in two wrong side in. Sew it to the 

wrong side of the edge with a seam allowance of 1 cm (1/4"). Stretch when sewing. 

Trim seam allowance. Turn the strip over the edge to the right side of the garment and 

edgestitch along the inner edge of the binding with double needle if available. 

Pattern collection for newborn babies


Note! The edges stretch when the garment is used. So tauten them quite firmly when 

attaching them to the garment. The best result is reached if Framilon (transparent 

elastic) is sewn along with the edge. First machine baste Framilon to the edge. Do not 

stretch. Framilon stretches enough when going under the presser foot. 

The technique of bound edges is dealt with in the 

Pattern sizes 

Garment sewing instructions 

general sewing instructions. 

In the babies'pattern collection there are 

patterns for sleepsuit, body, two panties, 

pants with long and short legs, blouse 

and three caps as well as diaper covers. 

The patterns are in sizes 44−50−56−62 

cm, 17 3/8−19 3/4−22 1/16−24 3/8−26 

3/4 in (the smallest size is for premature 

infant, see photo).Patterns for diaper 

covers are in sizes 50−56−62−68−74 

cm. 19 3/4−22 1/16−24 3/8−26 3/4−29 

1/8 in. 



Sleepsuit 

1. Sew the foot tops and bottoms to the leg cuffs. 

2. Sew one side seam, continue around the foot and along the inside seam of the leg to 

the place marked with number 2 in the picture. Sew the other side seam and leg 

accordingly starting from the point marked with number 2 in the picture. 

3. Sew the crotch piece to the opening at the suit crotch. 

4. Pin bib facings to the wrong sides of the bibs. Sew bound edges to the top edges of 

the sleepsuit. 

5. Sew buttons and buttonholes or pieces of Velcro to the bibs. 

Body 

1. Sew side seams. 

2. Sew bound edges to 

the top edges of the 

body. 

3. Pin the crotch 

facings to the wrong 

sides of the front and 

back crotches. Sew 

bound edges to the 

bottom edge of the 

body. 

4. Pin the shoulders of 

the body on top of each 

other according to 

shoulder marks on the 

patterns. Sew bound 

edges to armholes. 

Sew pieces of Velcro to front and back crotch. 

Panties using the body patterns 

Cut away the upper part of the body patterns. Add 1 1/2−2" of extra height to the top 

edge of the panties for waistline casing. Sew panties applying the body sewing 

instructions. 

Blouse using the 

body patterns 

Cut away the bottom 

part of the body 

patterns. Add 1 1/2−2" 

of length to the bottom 

edge of the blouse for 

hem allowance. Sew 

the blouse applying the 

body sewing 

instructions. Sew side 

seams, however, only 

after you have sewn the sleeves flat to the sleeve openings. Sew side seams and 

sleeve seams as one process from the blouse hem to the sleeve cuff. 

Please note that there are two versions of sleeves, one−piece and two−piece sleeve. 

The back piece of the two−piece sleeve is longer than the front piece. The cuff of the 

two−piece back sleeve is folded around the front sleeve cuff to form a "bag" for the 

baby's hand. Alternatively the sleeve cuff can be left open folding the back sleeve cuff 

on top of the back sleeve. 

Do as follows: 

1. Sew bound edges to the sleeve cuffs. 

2. Turn the cuff of the back sleeve according to the fold marks on the pattern right side 

in. 

3. Place the front and the back pieces of the sleeve on top of each other right sides 

together and sew the center seam of the sleeve. Handle the sleeve from this on as it 



would be a one−piece sleeve. Other side of the back sleeve cuff fold is sewn along with 

the sleeve inside seam. 

Pants 

1. Sew the center 

front and back 

seams right side 

against right side. 

2. Sew the crotch 

seam from leg cuff to 

leg cuff. 

3. Sew the waist 

band vertical seam. 

Fold the waist band 

lengthwise into two 

right side out and 

sew to the top edge 

of the pants. Stretch 

the waist band when 

sewing. 

Turn the hem allowances of the leg cuffs inwards and sew with double needle from the 

right side of the garment. 

Panties 

1. Cut open the round leg openings. 

Cut a seam from the leg openings to 

the bottom of the side seams. 

2. Sew bound edges to the leg 

openings. Sew the seams cut from 

the leg openings to the bottom of the 

side seams as narrow as possible 

from the wrong side of the panties. 

3. Fold a waistline casing to the top 

edge of the panties and sew with 

double needle. Trim seam allowance 

if necessary. Feed elastic into the 

casing if necessary. 

Diaper covers 



Cut the diaper covers double. Use fabric 

for outdoor garments or other water 

resistant fabric. 

1. Place pieces on top of each other right side against right side. Sew along the front 

and back edges. Turn the garment right side out and edgestitch front and back edges. 

2. Sew pieces of Velcro to the right side of the front edges and to the wrong side of the 

back edges according to marks on the patterns. 

3. Sew a casing for elastic to the top of the back pant through two layers of fabric. Feed 

elastic into the casing. Attach its ends with vertical stitch lines. 

4. Sew casings for elastic to the leg openings through two layers of fabric. Feed elastic 

to the casing and attach their ends with vertical stitch lines. 

5. Sew bound edge to the top edges of the pants front and back. 

Caps 

Sew this cap from elastic fabric only. 

1. Join the top pieces of the cap two and two together. Then join the cap halves to each 

other. 

2. Sew the vertical seam of the cap band. Fold the band lengthwise into two wrong side 

in and sew it to the bottom edge of the cap right side against right side. Stretch the 

band when sewing. Attach a decorative label or an application to the CF of the band. 

Sew also this cap from elastic fabric only. 



1. Sew the side and the top seams of the cap. 

2. Overlock the bottom edge of the cap with zigzag or with serger. Fold the 

bottom half of the cap according to the marks on the pattern on top of the 

top half of the cap and attach with a couple of invisible hand stitches to the 

side seams. 

Turn the cap right side out and fold the bottom edge up. Attach a decorative label or an 

application to the cap. Bind knots to the top corners of the cap. 

The third cap in the newborn babies' pattern collection can also be sewn of non−elastic 

fabric. Cut the pieces two times, one for the cap and one for the lining. If you do not 

use ready−made band for the cap ties make them from the cap fabric. For instructions 

please refer to the instructions of how to make shoulder straps for lingerie. 

1. Sew darts in the side sections of the cap and the lining. 

Attach the top/back sector of the cap to the side sectors. 

2. Place the cap and the lining within each other wrong 

sides together and machine baste the raw edges together. 

Put the cap ties in places between the cap and the edge 

binding on the wrong side of the cap upside down. Sew a 

bound edge to the raw edges of the cap. Finally, turn the 

cap ties downwards and attach with a few stitches to the 

edge binding.

General Sewing Instructions - Leena's.com

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