General Sewing Instructions - Leena's.com

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Sewing instructions for maternity and nursing garments Copyright ©1998−2000 Leena Lähteenmäki, Järvenpää Also refer to sewing instructions for Women's Vol. 1 macros and general sewing instructions You can sew most of the garments in the maternity macro collection by following the applicable sewing instructions for Women's Vol. 1 macros. On this page we give instructions to sew details which are not covered in the Women's garment instructions. For some details we refer to the general sewing instructions page . Not−pregnant option In most of the maternity macros there is a "not−pregnant−option". In garments meant for pregnant women extra ease has been added − not only to the waist circumference − but to front height , too. Otherwise the front hem would rise higher than the rest of the hem. The amount of eased added to the front height is determined by an average value, and may not work in all situations. Therefore, it is important that you check that the hem is parallel to the floor all around the garment when fitting the garment on. If you use the garment after your pregnancy, shorten the hem at the front, if needed. The bottom edges of the pockets have to be parallel to the hem. Therefore, do not fasten the pockets until you are sure that front height is OK and you can align pockets according to it. Hint : If you are sewing a garment for a person who is not pregnant, but has a round or tilted abdomen, choose "pregnant−option" and check that the hem is parallel to the floor when you try the garment on the subject. Straighten the front hem if needed. Sewing instructions for maternity and nursing garments
PatternMaker 40 Measuring Waist circumference is not asked in the maternity macros. These garments have a loose waist construction. The macro estimates the waist circumference of maternity pants and skirt according to the hip circumference measurement, and the necessary amount of extra ease is added. In the dialog box, therefore, the amount of added front height and width is asked. The default values are 3cm/1.25" and 6cm/2.5" per pattern piece (i.e. 1/2 of the front piece). So, for example, 6cm/2.5" of added front width means that the estimated pattern waist circumference has been increased by 12cm/5". You can change these measurements according to the phase of your pregnancy or when sewing garments for a person with a round or tilted abdomen. To be sure that these values are OK, measure the abdomen circumference of the front and back patterns, multiply the measurement by 2 (because the patterns are 1/2 patterns). Compare this value to the circumference measurement of your abdomen. Remember that there is a handy measuring tool (Draw/Dim) in the PatternMaker editing tools which you can use to measure the patterns on screen. The circumference of the abdomen of the patterns must be 2−4cm/0.75−1.5" more than the abdomen circumference of your body. If you need to increase or decrease the the amount of added ease on the abdomen level, change the added front width value in the measurements dialog box. If you need to add only a little (less than 5 cm/2"), don't change the added height value. If you need added width of more than 5cm/2" (in addition to the default 6 cm/2.5"), change the added front height value so that it is 1/3−1/4 of the added front width value. Do the fine adjustment when fitting the garment on. If you are not pregnant... You can type "0" (zero) as the added front width and/or height value. The result will then be patterns for normal pants or skirt. If you are not pregnant but have a round or tilted abdomen and you want to have extra ease at the abdomen area of the garment, check the correct amount of added front width and/or height by measuring the patterns and your body. Start with an added front width of "0" (zero) and added front height of 3cm/1.25". Measure the patterns and your body and change these values until you are satisfied with the abdomen width and height of the pattern. Note ! Do not add anything to the body measurements when typing them in the measurements dialog box. The macro adds the needed moving and design ease amounts on top of the body measurements. When wearing the pants and the skirt you can adjust their waist using the hook−and−loop tape construction at the waistband. Sewing instructions for maternity and nursing garments
Page 1 and 2: PatternMaker General sewing instruc
Page 3 and 4: PatternMaker 2 so cut it with about
Page 5 and 6: PatternMaker 4 Here is an easy way
Page 7 and 8: PatternMaker 6 If you want to creat
Page 9 and 10: PatternMaker 8 the across the botto
Page 11 and 12: PatternMaker 10 Stitch button exten
Page 13 and 14: PatternMaker 12 Iron interfacing on
Page 15 and 16: PatternMaker 14 Shirt placket is fi
Page 17 and 18: PatternMaker 16 Sew lining to the t
Page 19 and 20: PatternMaker 18 Pocket with welt Se
Page 21 and 22: PatternMaker 20 Side pockets Cut 2
Page 23 and 24: PatternMaker 22 Understitching is g
Page 25 and 26: PatternMaker 24 waist band accordin
Page 27 and 28: PatternMaker 26 Continue according
Page 29 and 30: PatternMaker 28 Easestitch sleeve c
Page 31 and 32: Sewing instructions for Rain Cape I
Page 33 and 34: PatternMaker 32 Attaching the hood
Page 35 and 36: PatternMaker Sewing projects Women'
Page 37 and 38: PatternMaker 36 hem seam allowance
Page 39: PatternMaker 38 General sewing inst
Page 43 and 44: PatternMaker 42 Pants, embedded abd
Page 45 and 46: PatternMaker 44 Sew pieces of hook
Page 47 and 48: PatternMaker 46 on top of the front
Page 49 and 50: PatternMaker 48 Sew and overlock th
Page 51 and 52: PatternMaker Sewing projects: Jacke
Page 53 and 54: PatternMaker 52 General sewing inst
Page 55 and 56: PatternMaker 54 Cut away button ext
Page 57 and 58: PatternMaker 56 Sewing the tunic Hi
Page 59 and 60: PatternMaker 58 Read instructions i
Page 61 and 62: PatternMaker 60 Sewing lingerie To
Page 63 and 64: PatternMaker 62 • lace, embroider
Page 65 and 66: PatternMaker 64 Preparing the fabri
Page 67 and 68: PatternMaker 66 If the elastic is a
Page 69 and 70: PatternMaker 68 Cut the bottom piec
Page 71 and 72: PatternMaker 70 Sewing a bodysuit /
Page 73 and 74: PatternMaker 72 This pattern can al
Page 75 and 76: PatternMaker 74 SewSassy Clotilde N
Page 77 and 78: PatternMaker 76 If you do not have
Page 79 and 80: PatternMaker 78 Compare the test re
Page 81 and 82: PatternMaker 80 Applying lace to ed
Page 83 and 84: PatternMaker 82 Apply lace insert a
Page 85 and 86: PatternMaker 84 Notions As closures
Page 87 and 88: PatternMaker 86 Sew the midriff pie
Page 89 and 90: PatternMaker 88 Other ideas to use
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PatternMaker 90 together. Match raw
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PatternMaker 92 Place the lace wron
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PatternMaker 94 Pin shoulder straps
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PatternMaker 96 If the lace is very
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PatternMaker Sewing projects Sewing
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PatternMaker 100 To make the two−
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PatternMaker 102 I used a serger to
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PatternMaker 104 Sewing projects Pa
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PatternMaker 106 Sew buttonholes. S
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PatternMaker 108 right sides of mat
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PatternMaker 110 The following uses
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Sewing instructions for children's
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PatternMaker 114 Iron interfacing t
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PatternMaker 116 For pants with ela
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PatternMaker 118 Sew back center se
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PatternMaker Sewing projects Baby's
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Pattern collection for newborn babi
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PatternMaker 124 Sleepsuit 1. Sew t
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PatternMaker 126 Cut the diaper cov
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General Sewing Instructions - Leena's.com

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