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General Sewing Instructions - Leena's.com

General Sewing Instructions - Leena's.com

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PatternMaker 3<br />

Here are some ideas of how to use other than normal ease<br />

Minimum ease:<br />

• garments of very thin fabrics<br />

• close−fitting garments and evening dresses<br />

• garments made of elastic fabrics<br />

• closely fitting sleeveless dresses<br />

• underwear<br />

Maximum ease:<br />

• garments of thick fabrics<br />

• jackets of thick wool fabrics for outdoors use<br />

• garments for leisure use<br />

• loose−fitting garments like (tunics, T−shirts, sweaters etc.) outer garments to be worn over other<br />

garments<br />

You might want your garments to have more ease or less ease than normally used. Once you are familiar<br />

with the patterns the macros create, you can use maximum or minimum according to your wishes. By<br />

testing different eases, you will learn to use them for many purposes.<br />

You should not change your actual body measurements in order to increase or decrease ease. It won't<br />

work. You don't know all the measurements which have to be changed or cannot change them as the<br />

program calculates some measurements for you.<br />

Ease chart<br />

In the following table you'll find the ease applied to women's basic macros.<br />

Ease is normally described by giving it at bust circumference. There is also ease at other places such as at<br />

neck circumference, back width, armscye depth, shoulder and sleeve length etc. These eases are not given<br />

in the table below but the differences correspond to bust ease.<br />

• Basic bodice: Bust +3.25in/8 cm<br />

• Skirt: Normal hip +1.5in/+4cm, Minimum hip +0.75in/+2 cm, Maximum hip +2.5in/+6<br />

• Pants: Waist +0 cm , Abdomen and hip +1.5in/4 cm<br />

• Pullover: Minimum, bust −0.75in/2 cm, Normal, bust +0in/0 cm, Maximum, bust +3.25in/8 cm<br />

• Blouse: Minimum, bust +4in/10 cm, Normal, bust +4.75in/12 cm, Maximum, bust +5.5in/14 cm<br />

• Shirt: Bust +6.25in/16 cm<br />

• Jacket: Minimum, bust +4.75in/12 cm, Normal, bust +5.5in/14 cm, Maximum, bust +6.25in/16 cm<br />

• Dress: Minimum, bust +4in/10 cm, Normal, bust +7.75in/12 cm, Maximum, bust +5.5in/14 cm<br />

Shoulder pads<br />

Space for shoulder pads is included in most of the patterns. Pullover is designed without shoulder pads.<br />

HINT : If you want to add shoulder pads to garments which do not have space for them, raise<br />

shoulder tip at front and back 0.5−1 cm / 1/4−1/2" and lengthen shoulder with same<br />

amount. Also raise the top of the sleeve cap with same amount you raised the shoulder tip.<br />

Bound edge<br />

<strong>General</strong> sewing instructions

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