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THIS MONTH
North: San Juan Islands
What’s that? You say you’re looking for a
whale of a vacation? Then you want to scurry
up north to Washington’s San Juan Islands,
one of the Northwest’s premiere destinations
for whale watching. This little slice of heaven
off the coast north of Seattle not only gives you
an in-the-wild Sea World experience, but takes
your breath away with sublime scenery and
reminds you to appreciate the simple things
in life.
Consisting of 172 islands, the San Juans
are nestled in the jigsaw puzzle of land and
sea between Bellingham, Washington and
Victoria, B.C. The four main destinations
are Shaw, Lopez, Orcas and San Juan Island.
While each of them boast their own unique
charm and splendor, it’s the combination of
colorful history, outstanding hikes and outdoor
activities, quaint lodging and incredible
restaurants on the namesake San Juan Island
that has us enchanted.
The first thing you’ll want to do is set
up your whale watching excursion, the most
famous and popular activity on the island.
About 90 endangered Orcas make their home
in the San Juans, and while whales can be seen
year-round, they are most commonly spotted
between May and October—which means,
according to the law of averages, August is
perfect timing.
Let the expert guides from San Juan
Safaris (800-450-6858, sanjuansafaris.com) take you
under their wing—er, flipper. With offices in
both Friday Harbor, the main town on San
Juan Island, and Roche Harbor, a quaint village
on the opposite side of the island, they’ll
get you out on the water in no time. Take
your pick from a three- to four-hour boat tour
($39–$59), or one of the three- or five-hour
kayaking adventures ($59–$75), which are
even family-friendly for kids age six and up.
Whichever you decide, the guides make sure
you get an education by interpreting the natural
history, geography and wildlife during the
leisurely trip.
To set your own pace, visit one of the best
places in the world to view the whales from
shore: the Lime Kiln Point State Park, aka
“Whale Watch Park.” Bring a picnic lunch and
sit on the shores during the whale watching
months and you’re sure to see a pod or two.
If you decide to make a night of it in
Friday Harbor, lay your head down at the
Harrison House Suites (235 C St, 800-407-7933,
harrisonhousesuites.com) or the Tucker House Inn
Bed & Breakfast and Cottages (260 B St, 800-
965-0123, tuckerhouse.com). Both are two blocks
from the ferry, have a water view, kitchenette
and are pet-friendly. Be prepared for a deep
sleep on the luxurious linens and a mouthwatering
breakfast made each morning by the
friendly inn owners.
As the sun sets on the harbor, take advantage
of the idyllic setting for a romantic meal.
Check out the Duck Soup Inn (50 Duck Soup Ln,
360-378-4878, ducksoupinn.com), where owner/chef
Gretchen Allison will craft you a meal from
scratch. The delicate flavors of this Northwest
cuisine will leave you craving more. For a
more low-key evening, visit the Cheers-esque
Haley’s Bait Shop and Grill (175 Spring St, 360-
378-4434). With the classic American bar grub
and stiff drinks, it’ll only be 20 minutes before
you feel like Norm.
With enough time, you’ll also be able to
trek to the other end of the island and explore
the sleepy village of Roche Harbor (rocheharbor.com).
The historic village celebrates its
past by preserving founding architecture like
the 120-year-old Hotel de Haro (800-451-8910),
where John Wayne spent many a night, and
looks to the future with modern attractions
like the Westcott Bay Reserve, a captivating
19-acre sculpture garden.
Boarding the ferry back in Friday Harbor,
you’ll probably find yourself longing to stay
on the slowed down “island time.” Even
though you have to return to the real world
mainland, the spirit of the graceful whales and
August 2006 / PDXmagazine.com 13