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NEIGHBORHOOD<br />

or all of them eventually while spending the<br />

day in the ‘hood. So what if there’s a hint of<br />

Starbucks (2803 E Burnside, 238-1408) and a dash<br />

of Wild Oats (2825 E Burnside, 232-6601, wildoats.<br />

com)? People gotta eat, right? Slight intrusions<br />

aside, Upper Burnside’s treasure trove of food,<br />

drink, fashion and cheap movies will keep all<br />

members of your party happily occupied all<br />

day and into the wee hours.<br />

<strong>For</strong> starters, there is an astonishing<br />

amount of options for breakfast. That first<br />

essential wake-up comes at Crema (2728 SE Ankeny<br />

St, 234-0206), with faithfully blended coffee<br />

and freshly baked pastries. Holman’s, which<br />

holds Oregon’s second oldest liquor license,<br />

has traditionally been known for their own<br />

Kept at bay by the prestigious gates of the<br />

hotsy-totsy Laurelhurst neighborhood, Music<br />

Millennium (3158 E Burnside, 231-8926, musicmillennium.com)<br />

continues to hold its ground as the<br />

Northwest’s oldest place to shop for music<br />

that just can’t be found elsewhere—and, if<br />

you’ve got good timing, quite possibly shake<br />

the hand of the artist that brought it to you<br />

(the store is known for in-store performances).<br />

Even if you’ve never set foot inside, you’ve<br />

seen Music Millennium’s influence all around<br />

town in the “Keep Portland Weird” bumper<br />

stickers that show up, well, everywhere. It’s<br />

Music Millennium’s way of supporting local,<br />

homegrown businesses like many of its Burnside<br />

compatriots.<br />

to depend on return trips in order to taste everything.<br />

Known especially for their desserts,<br />

saving room will be difficult, so take home a<br />

chocolate cigar or settle for a strong cup of<br />

coffee that is a source of national pride.<br />

At the other end of the strip is wine bar<br />

Noble Rot (2724 SE Ankeny St, 233-1999, noblerotpdx.<br />

com). You’ve probably heard of their famed onion<br />

tart, but the menu changes so frequently<br />

that we’re pretty sure it’s a crime punishable<br />

by sad taste buds to stick only with what you<br />

know in this case. And when it comes to<br />

wine, do yourself a favor and just trust them.<br />

You’ll also want to put your faith in the cooks<br />

at Esparza’s Tex Mex Café (2725 SE Ankeny<br />

St, 234-7909), who serve up exotic meats like<br />

Noble Rot<br />

Laurelhurst Theater<br />

hearty, ‘round the clock breakfasts and for the<br />

famous—or rather, infamous—Meal Wheel,<br />

which gives diners a chance to win a free meal.<br />

It’s best to take a spin with friends nearby—<br />

they’ll vouch for your honesty if by some twist<br />

of fate you win, and they’ll hold you back from<br />

ripping the wheel off the wall if you don’t.<br />

Another favorite neighborhood bar is<br />

Beulahland (118 NE 28th Ave, 235-2794), which has<br />

garnered what some may politely refer to as a<br />

“reputation.” It’s loud at night, with bands,<br />

beer and general rowdiness—but next to Wine<br />

Down on 28th (126 NE 28th Ave, 236-9463), with<br />

their fireplaces, lazy couches and long, relaxation-inducing<br />

wine list, even Neil Diamond<br />

might come across as a rebel. In the morning,<br />

however, Beulahland transforms into a quiet<br />

place to nurse that well-earned hangover. With<br />

a fresh new expansion complete, they now<br />

offer breakfast, a far cry from the lonely beer<br />

menu that graced the bar when they opened.<br />

The Plant Peddler (3022 E Burnside, 233-<br />

0384) is as homegrown as it gets; owners Ken<br />

and Kathie Blackburn offer a jungle of services<br />

including event rentals and maintenance.<br />

After browsing through their shop, you’ll<br />

surely be craving hot dogs—most likely because<br />

you will have caught the scent from The<br />

Dog House (2845 E Burnside, 239-3647) across<br />

the street. Everyone has a favorite dog, veggie<br />

or not, and accompanied by a root beer and<br />

some potato salad, you’ve got yourself a cheap<br />

meal sure to keep you full—until you realize<br />

that NE 28th Ave right around the corner has a<br />

concentration of some of the best, most varied<br />

restaurants in a single Portland neighborhood.<br />

<strong>For</strong> the purposes of this article, we’ll<br />

mark the end of the NE 28th corridor with the<br />

kaleidoscopic Pambiche (2811 NE Glisan St, 233-<br />

0511, pambiche.com). They offer small samplings<br />

of their sizable Cuban menu, but you’ll have<br />

buffalo and boar—and even offer off-the-wall<br />

choices like cactus for vegetarians—surrounded<br />

by Southwestern kitsch. Both adventurous<br />

and traditional dishes are well-portioned for a<br />

great price. More experimental Mexican cooking<br />

can be found at Tacqueria Nueve (28 NE<br />

28th Ave, 236-6195).<br />

Back on the main drag, Tabla’s (200 NE<br />

28th Ave, 238-3777, tabla-restaurant.com) specialty is<br />

Mediterranean food, meticulous and affordable;<br />

try their $24 three-course prix fixe menu<br />

available six nights a week. Just a bit down the<br />

road is narrow Navarre (10 NE 28th Ave, 232-3555,<br />

eatnavarre.com), which serves artfully-created<br />

tapas and wines to match. The menu is a<br />

checklist, both literally and metaphorically.<br />

Rounding out our culinary tour of this little<br />

corner of Portland is La Buca (40 NE 28th Ave,<br />

238-1058) with their simple, rich Italian menu,<br />

and Chin-Yen (18 NE 28th, 231-7781) offering standard,<br />

but tasty, dishes of China.<br />

24 PDXmagazine.com / August 2006

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