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NEIGHBORHOOD<br />
or all of them eventually while spending the<br />
day in the ‘hood. So what if there’s a hint of<br />
Starbucks (2803 E Burnside, 238-1408) and a dash<br />
of Wild Oats (2825 E Burnside, 232-6601, wildoats.<br />
com)? People gotta eat, right? Slight intrusions<br />
aside, Upper Burnside’s treasure trove of food,<br />
drink, fashion and cheap movies will keep all<br />
members of your party happily occupied all<br />
day and into the wee hours.<br />
<strong>For</strong> starters, there is an astonishing<br />
amount of options for breakfast. That first<br />
essential wake-up comes at Crema (2728 SE Ankeny<br />
St, 234-0206), with faithfully blended coffee<br />
and freshly baked pastries. Holman’s, which<br />
holds Oregon’s second oldest liquor license,<br />
has traditionally been known for their own<br />
Kept at bay by the prestigious gates of the<br />
hotsy-totsy Laurelhurst neighborhood, Music<br />
Millennium (3158 E Burnside, 231-8926, musicmillennium.com)<br />
continues to hold its ground as the<br />
Northwest’s oldest place to shop for music<br />
that just can’t be found elsewhere—and, if<br />
you’ve got good timing, quite possibly shake<br />
the hand of the artist that brought it to you<br />
(the store is known for in-store performances).<br />
Even if you’ve never set foot inside, you’ve<br />
seen Music Millennium’s influence all around<br />
town in the “Keep Portland Weird” bumper<br />
stickers that show up, well, everywhere. It’s<br />
Music Millennium’s way of supporting local,<br />
homegrown businesses like many of its Burnside<br />
compatriots.<br />
to depend on return trips in order to taste everything.<br />
Known especially for their desserts,<br />
saving room will be difficult, so take home a<br />
chocolate cigar or settle for a strong cup of<br />
coffee that is a source of national pride.<br />
At the other end of the strip is wine bar<br />
Noble Rot (2724 SE Ankeny St, 233-1999, noblerotpdx.<br />
com). You’ve probably heard of their famed onion<br />
tart, but the menu changes so frequently<br />
that we’re pretty sure it’s a crime punishable<br />
by sad taste buds to stick only with what you<br />
know in this case. And when it comes to<br />
wine, do yourself a favor and just trust them.<br />
You’ll also want to put your faith in the cooks<br />
at Esparza’s Tex Mex Café (2725 SE Ankeny<br />
St, 234-7909), who serve up exotic meats like<br />
Noble Rot<br />
Laurelhurst Theater<br />
hearty, ‘round the clock breakfasts and for the<br />
famous—or rather, infamous—Meal Wheel,<br />
which gives diners a chance to win a free meal.<br />
It’s best to take a spin with friends nearby—<br />
they’ll vouch for your honesty if by some twist<br />
of fate you win, and they’ll hold you back from<br />
ripping the wheel off the wall if you don’t.<br />
Another favorite neighborhood bar is<br />
Beulahland (118 NE 28th Ave, 235-2794), which has<br />
garnered what some may politely refer to as a<br />
“reputation.” It’s loud at night, with bands,<br />
beer and general rowdiness—but next to Wine<br />
Down on 28th (126 NE 28th Ave, 236-9463), with<br />
their fireplaces, lazy couches and long, relaxation-inducing<br />
wine list, even Neil Diamond<br />
might come across as a rebel. In the morning,<br />
however, Beulahland transforms into a quiet<br />
place to nurse that well-earned hangover. With<br />
a fresh new expansion complete, they now<br />
offer breakfast, a far cry from the lonely beer<br />
menu that graced the bar when they opened.<br />
The Plant Peddler (3022 E Burnside, 233-<br />
0384) is as homegrown as it gets; owners Ken<br />
and Kathie Blackburn offer a jungle of services<br />
including event rentals and maintenance.<br />
After browsing through their shop, you’ll<br />
surely be craving hot dogs—most likely because<br />
you will have caught the scent from The<br />
Dog House (2845 E Burnside, 239-3647) across<br />
the street. Everyone has a favorite dog, veggie<br />
or not, and accompanied by a root beer and<br />
some potato salad, you’ve got yourself a cheap<br />
meal sure to keep you full—until you realize<br />
that NE 28th Ave right around the corner has a<br />
concentration of some of the best, most varied<br />
restaurants in a single Portland neighborhood.<br />
<strong>For</strong> the purposes of this article, we’ll<br />
mark the end of the NE 28th corridor with the<br />
kaleidoscopic Pambiche (2811 NE Glisan St, 233-<br />
0511, pambiche.com). They offer small samplings<br />
of their sizable Cuban menu, but you’ll have<br />
buffalo and boar—and even offer off-the-wall<br />
choices like cactus for vegetarians—surrounded<br />
by Southwestern kitsch. Both adventurous<br />
and traditional dishes are well-portioned for a<br />
great price. More experimental Mexican cooking<br />
can be found at Tacqueria Nueve (28 NE<br />
28th Ave, 236-6195).<br />
Back on the main drag, Tabla’s (200 NE<br />
28th Ave, 238-3777, tabla-restaurant.com) specialty is<br />
Mediterranean food, meticulous and affordable;<br />
try their $24 three-course prix fixe menu<br />
available six nights a week. Just a bit down the<br />
road is narrow Navarre (10 NE 28th Ave, 232-3555,<br />
eatnavarre.com), which serves artfully-created<br />
tapas and wines to match. The menu is a<br />
checklist, both literally and metaphorically.<br />
Rounding out our culinary tour of this little<br />
corner of Portland is La Buca (40 NE 28th Ave,<br />
238-1058) with their simple, rich Italian menu,<br />
and Chin-Yen (18 NE 28th, 231-7781) offering standard,<br />
but tasty, dishes of China.<br />
24 PDXmagazine.com / August 2006