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Merlin 2 Manual - Tiffen

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10. Extreme Trimming<br />

Extreme Trim<br />

Trimming for Shots<br />

Steadicam operating is radically different from<br />

almost every other human activity—including<br />

normal camera operating! It requires a number<br />

of unusual moves and techniques such as<br />

trimming, so the desired headroom can be<br />

effortlessly maintained.<br />

Side-to-side trim should be checked every few<br />

minutes to confirm that the <strong>Merlin</strong> 2 is hanging<br />

approximately level (check the bubble). The<br />

balance required is so fine that it can never be set<br />

permanently. In addition the <strong>Merlin</strong> 2’s multiple<br />

joints and articulated moving parts may cause<br />

folding and unfolding operations to affect trim<br />

and require a slight touch-up.<br />

Professional operators tweak fore-and-aft trim<br />

between almost every take so the camera’s exact<br />

attitude can help get the shot, rather than hinder<br />

the framing.<br />

Remember that trimming is approximate, never<br />

perfect, so don’t fuss with it. Get it roughly<br />

correct and try a take. You may want to trim<br />

differently make some other part of the shot<br />

easier to get.<br />

Note: Don’t try to tilt or pan the <strong>Merlin</strong><br />

2 by grabbing the spars. It ‘re-connects’<br />

you to the camera, and will not be much<br />

more stable than ordinary hand-held<br />

shooting.<br />

Extreme Trimming for Extreme<br />

Angles<br />

If your entire shot requires an extreme angle of<br />

tilt (like up to a cathedral ceiling or down from a<br />

high balcony):<br />

• trim up slightly to maintain headroom<br />

for tall people<br />

• trim down slightly for shorter people<br />

Use quick full turns of the trim rollers—<br />

it’s a fine micrometer adjustment, and<br />

otherwise would take forever.<br />

The <strong>Merlin</strong> 2 stabilizes best when trimmed so<br />

you could let go with the guiding hand and the<br />

camera would stay where you want it. If not, the<br />

camera must be continually forced up or down<br />

to hold your shot and would tilt the moment<br />

you let go. It is axiomatic that human beings<br />

cannot exert a constant force – but they can<br />

exert no force – constantly! Your shots are much<br />

more stable when you don’t have to walk along<br />

holding the camera above or below the tilt angle<br />

it’s trimmed for.<br />

• Don’t be afraid of radical fore-and-aft<br />

trimming, so the camera holds the desired<br />

position for you. It may take a dozen or<br />

more quick turns of the Trim Roller –<br />

it’s a very fine micrometer adjustment<br />

–to achieve this. If many turns is not<br />

sufficient, it suggests that your <strong>Merlin</strong> 2<br />

may be too bottom heavy. Counter-clock<br />

the Guide Ring several turns and try<br />

again.<br />

32<br />

Make Tilting Easier<br />

For shots that may tilt both up and down, we<br />

suggest reducing bottom-heaviness by counter<br />

clocking the Guide Ring and increase the droptime<br />

– which will make it easier to aim up or<br />

down with just finger pressure – and just trim<br />

fore-and-aft for the most difficult part of the shot.<br />

• Don’t forget to re-trim afterward for<br />

normal shooting! It’s like keeping a guitar<br />

in tune. It will get to be second nature!

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