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Nuts & Volts

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transformer, then isolate the outputs<br />

for each stepper (using a diode) and<br />

filter each using a hefty capacitor (C =<br />

I out / 120 * V RIPPLE ).<br />

DOOR OPEN BUZZER<br />

QI have a Chamberlain garage<br />

door monitor that notifies<br />

me when the garage door is<br />

open or closed. When the<br />

door is closed, a coded radio signal is<br />

sent to a receiver, which displays a<br />

green LED. When the door is open, a<br />

red LED flashes once every second for<br />

as long as the door remains open. The<br />

system works great, but I would like to<br />

add a buzzer in addition to the flashing<br />

red light when the door opens.<br />

However, I don’t want the buzzer on all<br />

the time when I’m working in the<br />

garage with the door open. I want the<br />

buzzer to just initially sound for the<br />

door opening and then stop. I was<br />

thinking of using the “Adjustable<br />

Buzzer” circuit in the December ‘05<br />

column, but I’m not sure how to adapt<br />

it for my purposes. Do you have a good<br />

solution?<br />

— Christopher Rust<br />

Maple Grove, MN<br />

the garage door illuminates the green<br />

LED and effectively disables the timer<br />

— until the next open-door incident.<br />

WHICH WAY<br />

THE WIND BLOWS<br />

QI would like to build a weather<br />

vane to show the direction<br />

of the wind on a display<br />

inside my shop. Ideally, it<br />

would have LEDs to indicate at least<br />

eight wind headings. Instead of a mechanical<br />

contact at the vane, is there a<br />

simple circuit to indicate the position<br />

■ FIGURE 3<br />

24VCT<br />

17Vp-p<br />

XL = 45 ohms<br />

60mH<br />

2Vp-p<br />

Choke Input Design<br />

QUESTIONS & ANSWERS<br />

~10.5 VDC<br />

44 mVp-p<br />

Rs<br />

+<br />

+V<br />

10,000uF<br />

RL = 6 ohms<br />

of the vane? Perhaps a series of Halleffect<br />

components have to be used? I’m<br />

not sure if I understand the Hall-effect<br />

components correctly, but I’m open to<br />

anything and willing to try (read:<br />

limited electronic, self-taught, hobby<br />

education).<br />

— Larry<br />

AWelcome to the world of selftaught<br />

hobby electronics.<br />

The road is bumpy, but filled<br />

with lots of serendipity detours<br />

that lead to exciting discoveries.<br />

Let’s start with the Hall-effect.<br />

In operation, a constant bias<br />

+12V<br />

■ FIGURE 2<br />

AIt’s fortunate that you<br />

have a steady green<br />

LED in addition to the<br />

blinking red LED, because<br />

it’s nearly impossible to trigger<br />

a timer from a pulsing source.<br />

I suggest you take the trigger<br />

signal from the green LED when<br />

it extinguishes — the opposite of<br />

the “Adjustable Buzzer” design.<br />

Instead of a 555 timer, I chose to<br />

go with a NOR gate monostable<br />

timer (Figure 3). When the green<br />

LED goes dark, the 4N25 optoisolator<br />

turns off and applies a<br />

high to the 4001 NOR gate. This<br />

starts the timer and turns on the<br />

buzzer. The time is determined by<br />

t = 1.1RC — about five seconds<br />

for the values shown.<br />

Want the buzzer to beep in<br />

step with the blinking red LED?<br />

Use the optional beeper circuit<br />

under the buzzer diagram. When<br />

the red LED is lit, Q1 turns on<br />

and sounds the buzzer. Closing<br />

Receiver<br />

Green LED<br />

Receiver<br />

Red LED<br />

Break<br />

Circuit<br />

Break<br />

Circuit<br />

4N25<br />

LED Off Buzzer<br />

4N25<br />

10K<br />

+12V<br />

10K<br />

4001<br />

R1<br />

1K<br />

4001<br />

4.7uF<br />

t = 1.1RC<br />

5 Sec<br />

4001<br />

LED Off Beeper (Optional Add-On)<br />

+<br />

1M<br />

4001<br />

1K<br />

R1<br />

1K<br />

+<br />

-<br />

Q1<br />

2N2222<br />

Q1<br />

2N2222<br />

Buzzer<br />

April 2006 25

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