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Nuts & Volts

Nuts & Volts

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USB<br />

+5V<br />

Data<br />

GND<br />

1N5819<br />

+<br />

USB Power Boost<br />

ripple effect over again. Well, the only<br />

way to turn off an SCR is to cut the<br />

power, which is what the relay does.<br />

The Q9 output of the 4017 is normally<br />

low, which engages the relay via the<br />

2N3906 transistor. When Q9 goes high,<br />

the relay opens and turns off the SCRs.<br />

The 4017 is clocked with a pair of<br />

NAND gates — in an astable configuration<br />

— that turns on the lamps a<br />

half second apart. To adjust the speed<br />

of the timing sequence, replace the<br />

100K resistor with a 250K pot. Since I<br />

had an unused gate, I used it to drive<br />

a TIP110 Darlington transistor that<br />

flashes the front turn light. It’s optional<br />

and not critical to the circuit. That’s<br />

it. As simple as the original Ford<br />

version, but without the cams.<br />

USB POWER BOOST<br />

■ FIGURE 9<br />

1F<br />

5V<br />

To Drive<br />

QI have several 2.5” hard drive<br />

enclosures that claim to be<br />

USB powered. But, as you<br />

know, some machines just<br />

don’t have sufficient current capabilities<br />

on their USB ports to power these devices.<br />

What I have discovered is that once<br />

the drive is up to speed, there is usually<br />

sufficient current to keep it running. I<br />

would like to build an in-line power supply<br />

using AAA or AA batteries to provide<br />

the boost necessary to get the drive spinning.<br />

The power supply should be invisible<br />

to the host PC, while simultaneously<br />

being paralleled with the USB power,<br />

with maybe a (automatic) switch to<br />

remove the “power box” from the picture<br />

after the drive has spun up. Can you help?<br />

— David Draper<br />

Bakersfield, CA<br />

AYou have need for concern.<br />

Although the USB port is<br />

rated for five volts at 500 mA,<br />

many notebook USB ports<br />

can only deliver 100 mA. While a<br />

battery boost would help, I suggest<br />

using a supercap instead. Because<br />

the supercap has a lower internal<br />

resistance than an AA cell does, it can<br />

provide a bigger jolt of current.<br />

In fact, the motor and capacitor<br />

curves match up perfectly. The motor demands<br />

a larger amount of current to start<br />

from a stall than it takes to operate at<br />

full speed, whereas the capacitor has the<br />

most current to give at the beginning of<br />

its discharge curve and loses energy as<br />

the cap discharges. By balancing the<br />

charge in the capacitor with the needs of<br />

the motor, the voltage will remain high<br />

enough for long enough for the motor to<br />

wind up and let the USB port take over.<br />

A one Farad supercap can store<br />

enough energy to power most disk drives<br />

for three seconds with little sag in<br />

the voltage (less than a volt) as the cap<br />

discharges — plenty of time for most<br />

drives to be in high gear — at which<br />

point the cap recharges and floats. The<br />

design requires nothing more than a<br />

supercap and Schottky diode, as shown<br />

in Figure 9. The diode prevents the supercap<br />

from manhandling the USB port.<br />

OUTPUT TRANSFORMER<br />

RESISTANCE<br />

QI’m in the process of restoring<br />

a pair of 60-watt theater<br />

amps (Simplex AM-1026)<br />

and I have a concern about<br />

the output transformers. On one amp,<br />

the DC winding resistance of the primary<br />

is 75 ohms from B+ to one plate,<br />

and 75 ohms from B+ to the other<br />

plate: 150 ohms plate-to-plate. On the<br />

other amp, the corresponding readings<br />

are 75 ohms and 140 ohms, respectively,<br />

with 2, 215 ohms plate-to-plate!<br />

My thinking is that if high voltage<br />

shorted some windings, shouldn’t the<br />

resistance decrease? Otherwise, the 140<br />

MAILBAG<br />

Dear TJ,<br />

Regarding paging feedback to Dan Elliot in the<br />

January ‘06 column ... the device you suggested is<br />

good, and filtering bad frequencies is an answer if<br />

they are consistent. In our building, we’ve installed a<br />

delay to totally break the feedback loop with 100%<br />

success, and I would suggest Mr. Elliot use the delay<br />

element on the Shark unit before worrying about the<br />

notch filters.<br />

— Greg<br />

Dear TJ,<br />

In the October ‘05 column, under “The Hounds<br />

of Baskervilles” (concerning the defecating dogs),<br />

to keep the next-door neighbors happy, I would<br />

recommend an environmentally friendly approach<br />

over the loud horn. How about an oscillating lawn<br />

sprinkler or two turned on by the existing sensors? I<br />

don’t think the dogs would be comfortable answering<br />

the call of nature with water streams pulsating<br />

around them. A junked washing machine would be a<br />

good source of electric water valves.<br />

— Bud Fuechtmann<br />

Dear TJ,<br />

One thing you neglected to mention in the January<br />

‘06 “Tube Amp Power Regulation” answer is to put<br />

a filter choke and bypass caps on the input to the<br />

filament regulator. In any switcher, noise will couple<br />

back to the power line through the transformer<br />

interwinding capacitance. It’s easy enough to do — just<br />

cannibalize the parts from a busted ATX power supply.<br />

The first time I built a flyback switcher I knocked out<br />

every AM radio within a few hundred feet!<br />

— Jack Walton<br />

Short Hills, NJ<br />

28 April 2006

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