Nuts & Volts
Nuts & Volts
Nuts & Volts
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USB<br />
+5V<br />
Data<br />
GND<br />
1N5819<br />
+<br />
USB Power Boost<br />
ripple effect over again. Well, the only<br />
way to turn off an SCR is to cut the<br />
power, which is what the relay does.<br />
The Q9 output of the 4017 is normally<br />
low, which engages the relay via the<br />
2N3906 transistor. When Q9 goes high,<br />
the relay opens and turns off the SCRs.<br />
The 4017 is clocked with a pair of<br />
NAND gates — in an astable configuration<br />
— that turns on the lamps a<br />
half second apart. To adjust the speed<br />
of the timing sequence, replace the<br />
100K resistor with a 250K pot. Since I<br />
had an unused gate, I used it to drive<br />
a TIP110 Darlington transistor that<br />
flashes the front turn light. It’s optional<br />
and not critical to the circuit. That’s<br />
it. As simple as the original Ford<br />
version, but without the cams.<br />
USB POWER BOOST<br />
■ FIGURE 9<br />
1F<br />
5V<br />
To Drive<br />
QI have several 2.5” hard drive<br />
enclosures that claim to be<br />
USB powered. But, as you<br />
know, some machines just<br />
don’t have sufficient current capabilities<br />
on their USB ports to power these devices.<br />
What I have discovered is that once<br />
the drive is up to speed, there is usually<br />
sufficient current to keep it running. I<br />
would like to build an in-line power supply<br />
using AAA or AA batteries to provide<br />
the boost necessary to get the drive spinning.<br />
The power supply should be invisible<br />
to the host PC, while simultaneously<br />
being paralleled with the USB power,<br />
with maybe a (automatic) switch to<br />
remove the “power box” from the picture<br />
after the drive has spun up. Can you help?<br />
— David Draper<br />
Bakersfield, CA<br />
AYou have need for concern.<br />
Although the USB port is<br />
rated for five volts at 500 mA,<br />
many notebook USB ports<br />
can only deliver 100 mA. While a<br />
battery boost would help, I suggest<br />
using a supercap instead. Because<br />
the supercap has a lower internal<br />
resistance than an AA cell does, it can<br />
provide a bigger jolt of current.<br />
In fact, the motor and capacitor<br />
curves match up perfectly. The motor demands<br />
a larger amount of current to start<br />
from a stall than it takes to operate at<br />
full speed, whereas the capacitor has the<br />
most current to give at the beginning of<br />
its discharge curve and loses energy as<br />
the cap discharges. By balancing the<br />
charge in the capacitor with the needs of<br />
the motor, the voltage will remain high<br />
enough for long enough for the motor to<br />
wind up and let the USB port take over.<br />
A one Farad supercap can store<br />
enough energy to power most disk drives<br />
for three seconds with little sag in<br />
the voltage (less than a volt) as the cap<br />
discharges — plenty of time for most<br />
drives to be in high gear — at which<br />
point the cap recharges and floats. The<br />
design requires nothing more than a<br />
supercap and Schottky diode, as shown<br />
in Figure 9. The diode prevents the supercap<br />
from manhandling the USB port.<br />
OUTPUT TRANSFORMER<br />
RESISTANCE<br />
QI’m in the process of restoring<br />
a pair of 60-watt theater<br />
amps (Simplex AM-1026)<br />
and I have a concern about<br />
the output transformers. On one amp,<br />
the DC winding resistance of the primary<br />
is 75 ohms from B+ to one plate,<br />
and 75 ohms from B+ to the other<br />
plate: 150 ohms plate-to-plate. On the<br />
other amp, the corresponding readings<br />
are 75 ohms and 140 ohms, respectively,<br />
with 2, 215 ohms plate-to-plate!<br />
My thinking is that if high voltage<br />
shorted some windings, shouldn’t the<br />
resistance decrease? Otherwise, the 140<br />
MAILBAG<br />
Dear TJ,<br />
Regarding paging feedback to Dan Elliot in the<br />
January ‘06 column ... the device you suggested is<br />
good, and filtering bad frequencies is an answer if<br />
they are consistent. In our building, we’ve installed a<br />
delay to totally break the feedback loop with 100%<br />
success, and I would suggest Mr. Elliot use the delay<br />
element on the Shark unit before worrying about the<br />
notch filters.<br />
— Greg<br />
Dear TJ,<br />
In the October ‘05 column, under “The Hounds<br />
of Baskervilles” (concerning the defecating dogs),<br />
to keep the next-door neighbors happy, I would<br />
recommend an environmentally friendly approach<br />
over the loud horn. How about an oscillating lawn<br />
sprinkler or two turned on by the existing sensors? I<br />
don’t think the dogs would be comfortable answering<br />
the call of nature with water streams pulsating<br />
around them. A junked washing machine would be a<br />
good source of electric water valves.<br />
— Bud Fuechtmann<br />
Dear TJ,<br />
One thing you neglected to mention in the January<br />
‘06 “Tube Amp Power Regulation” answer is to put<br />
a filter choke and bypass caps on the input to the<br />
filament regulator. In any switcher, noise will couple<br />
back to the power line through the transformer<br />
interwinding capacitance. It’s easy enough to do — just<br />
cannibalize the parts from a busted ATX power supply.<br />
The first time I built a flyback switcher I knocked out<br />
every AM radio within a few hundred feet!<br />
— Jack Walton<br />
Short Hills, NJ<br />
28 April 2006