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FALL <strong>1980</strong><br />
An antenna is simply a device<br />
designed to radiate a wave. By<br />
pleasant symmetry, an antenna is<br />
equally good (or bad) whether<br />
radiating or receiving a wave. The<br />
TV antenna seen on roof-tops is, by<br />
and large, a pretty good device; it<br />
will receive (or radiate) a high<br />
percentage of the electrical energy<br />
delivered to it at the wavelength for<br />
which it is designed. Transmission<br />
lines are electrical devices<br />
intended not to radiate: that is, if<br />
the current in one conductor is<br />
exactly equal and opposite to the<br />
current in the other conductor<br />
(both spatially and in time) then the<br />
net radiated field is zero. A<br />
transmission line must be properly<br />
used (and loss free) for this to be<br />
true. The twin-lead leading from<br />
the roof-top antenna to your TV set<br />
is an example.<br />
Rabbit ears are a mis-matched<br />
transmission line, more or less. The<br />
vagaries of rabbit ears are well<br />
known. Just keep in mind that mismatched<br />
transmission lines will<br />
both radiate and receive - with<br />
surprising efficiency at times. A<br />
."mis-matched" transmission line is<br />
one that is improperly installed and<br />
thus violates the "equal and<br />
opposite current" criteria outlined<br />
above. A solitary wire suspended<br />
above the earth is also a<br />
transmission line with the return<br />
current coming back through the<br />
earth just as the current leaves thru<br />
the wire. These wires radiate a great<br />
deal. Remember that at the short<br />
wave lengths we're talking about, .<br />
one does not need a direct<br />
connection to enable current flow.<br />
Any two conductors in iipace have<br />
capacitance between them which<br />
allows current to flow whenever<br />
there is a rapidly time-varying<br />
voltage between them. To get an<br />
intuitive picture of the transmission<br />
line radiating, just imagine the field<br />
produced by the current of first<br />
one of the conductors, then the<br />
other. Subtract the two fields and if<br />
the result is not zero, then radiation<br />
will take place.<br />
The reason for discussing<br />
antennas is that we want to give our<br />
TV receiver the very best and our<br />
computer the worst we can<br />
arrange. In the real world, one<br />
seldom needs both - but it<br />
happens.<br />
THE APPLE ORCHARD<br />
GETTING THE TV SIGNAL TO THE<br />
TV SET<br />
When interference occurs,<br />
whether it's your set or your<br />
neighbor's, the first efforts should<br />
be to check the installed antenna<br />
system. First, to convice yourself<br />
that the interference is really<br />
arriving at the antenna terminals of<br />
the TV set, disconnect the antenna<br />
at the set and check the TV picture.<br />
You should see nothing but snow<br />
- good clean snow - on all the<br />
lower channels (2 through 13). TV<br />
sets manufactured these days have<br />
pretty good shielding and modestly<br />
effective line filters. It is only rarely<br />
that a local station will be so<br />
powerful as to sneak into a set<br />
without an antenna. Secondly,<br />
con vi nee yourself that the<br />
observed interference is actually<br />
due to the computer (and/or<br />
accessories) by simply turning it on<br />
and off. Remember that there are<br />
other sources of airway pollution -<br />
arc welders, cash registers,<br />
blenders, hair dryers and even<br />
clock radios.<br />
After you are sure that the<br />
interference is getting to the TV set<br />
antenna terminals, you must now<br />
examine the entire system by which<br />
the TV signal, converted to a tiny<br />
voltage by the TV antenna, is<br />
carried to the TV set. You<br />
should look for bad connectors,<br />
broken wires, impedence mismatches,<br />
faulty power splitters<br />
etc... anything that degrades<br />
overall antenna performance.<br />
On outdoor antennas, the<br />
weather and chimney fumes will<br />
convert metals into insulators. The<br />
connections will have to be scraped<br />
clean, reconnected and then<br />
varnished or otherwise coated to<br />
keep the elements away. Often, the<br />
wind will cause the lead-in wire to<br />
flex and, over a period of years, the<br />
wires will break inside the<br />
insulation and present you with an<br />
invisible but very bothersome open<br />
circuit.<br />
Twin-lead rarely shorts because<br />
the wires are widely separated, but<br />
coax may, if connectors are<br />
improperly installed or the cable<br />
has been crushed. Careful visual<br />
inspection is useful. Coaxial cable<br />
will be terminated at both ends<br />
with "Balun Transformers". This is<br />
PAGE 33<br />
frequently mounted in a little box<br />
with a short piece of twin-lead<br />
coming out of one end, a coax<br />
connector at the other end. The<br />
antenna end must also have a<br />
Balun.<br />
Unfortunately, there are many<br />
little gadgets sold that claim to<br />
improve TV reception . In fact, most<br />
are carelessly designed and<br />
constructed. Interferenc e<br />
suppressors, band splitters, color<br />
enhancers, ghost suppressors etc. .. ,<br />
very frequently deteriorate<br />
antenna performance, m is-match<br />
the lead-in transmission line or<br />
otherwise cause grief. It is good<br />
practice to remove all such devices<br />
when an RFI problem is under investigation.<br />
For simplicity, ignore<br />
installed lead-in systems and temporarily<br />
run 300 ohm twin-lead<br />
directly from the antenna to the TV<br />
set in question. Twist the twin-lead<br />
at the rate of one or two turns per<br />
foot. You can later back up and<br />
reinstall as neat a system as you like.<br />
It is imperative that there be no<br />
mysterious little boxes (installed by<br />
the previous owner) hidden in<br />
walls or attics.<br />
An apartment or house will often<br />
have multiple TV antenna "outlets"<br />
installed when the dwelling was<br />
built. This is a problem from two<br />
standpoints. Each time the central<br />
antenna is "tapped", a power<br />
splitter is installed which cuts your<br />
signal in half. Not nice! In addition,<br />
your house is wired with all these<br />
"outlets" that become antennas,<br />
picking up interference and conducting<br />
it back through the splitters,<br />
right into your TV set. If "minloss<br />
pads" have been used instead<br />
of real power splitters, then you are<br />
losing 75% through each one. Minloss<br />
pads are valuable when there is<br />
a powerful antenna "distribution<br />
anplifier" that boosts the received<br />
signal up to a level where the loss in<br />
the pads can be tolerated. All too<br />
often, systems once designed for a<br />
distribution amplifier break down,<br />
the amplifier is removed and you<br />
are left with a passel of min-loss<br />
pads and almost no signal. In any<br />
case, first try a temporary direct<br />
connect system . Afterwards, try<br />
terminating every unused TV outlet<br />
with a 300 ohm resistor.<br />
Antenna orientation is<br />
important. If a particular channel