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Apple Orchard 1980 Fall v1n2 reduced

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FALL <strong>1980</strong><br />

An antenna is simply a device<br />

designed to radiate a wave. By<br />

pleasant symmetry, an antenna is<br />

equally good (or bad) whether<br />

radiating or receiving a wave. The<br />

TV antenna seen on roof-tops is, by<br />

and large, a pretty good device; it<br />

will receive (or radiate) a high<br />

percentage of the electrical energy<br />

delivered to it at the wavelength for<br />

which it is designed. Transmission<br />

lines are electrical devices<br />

intended not to radiate: that is, if<br />

the current in one conductor is<br />

exactly equal and opposite to the<br />

current in the other conductor<br />

(both spatially and in time) then the<br />

net radiated field is zero. A<br />

transmission line must be properly<br />

used (and loss free) for this to be<br />

true. The twin-lead leading from<br />

the roof-top antenna to your TV set<br />

is an example.<br />

Rabbit ears are a mis-matched<br />

transmission line, more or less. The<br />

vagaries of rabbit ears are well<br />

known. Just keep in mind that mismatched<br />

transmission lines will<br />

both radiate and receive - with<br />

surprising efficiency at times. A<br />

."mis-matched" transmission line is<br />

one that is improperly installed and<br />

thus violates the "equal and<br />

opposite current" criteria outlined<br />

above. A solitary wire suspended<br />

above the earth is also a<br />

transmission line with the return<br />

current coming back through the<br />

earth just as the current leaves thru<br />

the wire. These wires radiate a great<br />

deal. Remember that at the short<br />

wave lengths we're talking about, .<br />

one does not need a direct<br />

connection to enable current flow.<br />

Any two conductors in iipace have<br />

capacitance between them which<br />

allows current to flow whenever<br />

there is a rapidly time-varying<br />

voltage between them. To get an<br />

intuitive picture of the transmission<br />

line radiating, just imagine the field<br />

produced by the current of first<br />

one of the conductors, then the<br />

other. Subtract the two fields and if<br />

the result is not zero, then radiation<br />

will take place.<br />

The reason for discussing<br />

antennas is that we want to give our<br />

TV receiver the very best and our<br />

computer the worst we can<br />

arrange. In the real world, one<br />

seldom needs both - but it<br />

happens.<br />

THE APPLE ORCHARD<br />

GETTING THE TV SIGNAL TO THE<br />

TV SET<br />

When interference occurs,<br />

whether it's your set or your<br />

neighbor's, the first efforts should<br />

be to check the installed antenna<br />

system. First, to convice yourself<br />

that the interference is really<br />

arriving at the antenna terminals of<br />

the TV set, disconnect the antenna<br />

at the set and check the TV picture.<br />

You should see nothing but snow<br />

- good clean snow - on all the<br />

lower channels (2 through 13). TV<br />

sets manufactured these days have<br />

pretty good shielding and modestly<br />

effective line filters. It is only rarely<br />

that a local station will be so<br />

powerful as to sneak into a set<br />

without an antenna. Secondly,<br />

con vi nee yourself that the<br />

observed interference is actually<br />

due to the computer (and/or<br />

accessories) by simply turning it on<br />

and off. Remember that there are<br />

other sources of airway pollution -<br />

arc welders, cash registers,<br />

blenders, hair dryers and even<br />

clock radios.<br />

After you are sure that the<br />

interference is getting to the TV set<br />

antenna terminals, you must now<br />

examine the entire system by which<br />

the TV signal, converted to a tiny<br />

voltage by the TV antenna, is<br />

carried to the TV set. You<br />

should look for bad connectors,<br />

broken wires, impedence mismatches,<br />

faulty power splitters<br />

etc... anything that degrades<br />

overall antenna performance.<br />

On outdoor antennas, the<br />

weather and chimney fumes will<br />

convert metals into insulators. The<br />

connections will have to be scraped<br />

clean, reconnected and then<br />

varnished or otherwise coated to<br />

keep the elements away. Often, the<br />

wind will cause the lead-in wire to<br />

flex and, over a period of years, the<br />

wires will break inside the<br />

insulation and present you with an<br />

invisible but very bothersome open<br />

circuit.<br />

Twin-lead rarely shorts because<br />

the wires are widely separated, but<br />

coax may, if connectors are<br />

improperly installed or the cable<br />

has been crushed. Careful visual<br />

inspection is useful. Coaxial cable<br />

will be terminated at both ends<br />

with "Balun Transformers". This is<br />

PAGE 33<br />

frequently mounted in a little box<br />

with a short piece of twin-lead<br />

coming out of one end, a coax<br />

connector at the other end. The<br />

antenna end must also have a<br />

Balun.<br />

Unfortunately, there are many<br />

little gadgets sold that claim to<br />

improve TV reception . In fact, most<br />

are carelessly designed and<br />

constructed. Interferenc e<br />

suppressors, band splitters, color<br />

enhancers, ghost suppressors etc. .. ,<br />

very frequently deteriorate<br />

antenna performance, m is-match<br />

the lead-in transmission line or<br />

otherwise cause grief. It is good<br />

practice to remove all such devices<br />

when an RFI problem is under investigation.<br />

For simplicity, ignore<br />

installed lead-in systems and temporarily<br />

run 300 ohm twin-lead<br />

directly from the antenna to the TV<br />

set in question. Twist the twin-lead<br />

at the rate of one or two turns per<br />

foot. You can later back up and<br />

reinstall as neat a system as you like.<br />

It is imperative that there be no<br />

mysterious little boxes (installed by<br />

the previous owner) hidden in<br />

walls or attics.<br />

An apartment or house will often<br />

have multiple TV antenna "outlets"<br />

installed when the dwelling was<br />

built. This is a problem from two<br />

standpoints. Each time the central<br />

antenna is "tapped", a power<br />

splitter is installed which cuts your<br />

signal in half. Not nice! In addition,<br />

your house is wired with all these<br />

"outlets" that become antennas,<br />

picking up interference and conducting<br />

it back through the splitters,<br />

right into your TV set. If "minloss<br />

pads" have been used instead<br />

of real power splitters, then you are<br />

losing 75% through each one. Minloss<br />

pads are valuable when there is<br />

a powerful antenna "distribution<br />

anplifier" that boosts the received<br />

signal up to a level where the loss in<br />

the pads can be tolerated. All too<br />

often, systems once designed for a<br />

distribution amplifier break down,<br />

the amplifier is removed and you<br />

are left with a passel of min-loss<br />

pads and almost no signal. In any<br />

case, first try a temporary direct<br />

connect system . Afterwards, try<br />

terminating every unused TV outlet<br />

with a 300 ohm resistor.<br />

Antenna orientation is<br />

important. If a particular channel

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