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Introduction<br />

Conventional amplifiers usually have controls on the front to adjust<br />

for the connected transducer: this means fiddling around each time<br />

you change transducers or amplifiers, with a chance each time of<br />

making the wrong settings, and damaging equipment.<br />

Front-ends are designed to be easily transferred between recording<br />

units, and quick to disconnect and reconnect, so it makes more sense<br />

to adapt the transducer. This work needs only be done once for any<br />

third-party transducer, which can then be used with any GP Amp.<br />

Once set up, multiple transducers will work with the same GP Amp<br />

without needing further adjustment, and one can simply change<br />

connected transducers at will.<br />

Some soldering of components is required to adapt third-party<br />

transducers for use with your GP Amp. If you have little experience<br />

with electronics and no technician to assist you, your <strong>ADInstruments</strong><br />

representative should be able to help.<br />

Unpowered Signal Sources<br />

The GP Amp can be connected to signal sources that do not need to be<br />

powered, for example, electrodes or passive transducers such as<br />

piezoelectric strain gauges. Connection of unpowered transducers to a<br />

GP Amp is relatively straightforward. First read this section carefully.<br />

The requirements of the transducer should be determined before<br />

attempting to connect it up.<br />

You will need this equipment:<br />

• a soldering iron and resin-cored solder (only resin-cored solder!)<br />

• an appropriate connector for your GP Amp (an 8-pin DIN-style<br />

male plug with 45-degree pin spacing — one is supplied with the<br />

front-end).<br />

Wiring Up the Transducer<br />

To prepare an unpowered transducer for use with the GP Amp, wire<br />

the transducer to the plug so that it can connect up.<br />

32<br />

GP Amp Owner’s Guide

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