Liguria, land of quality - Turismo in Liguria

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Sea products In the Ligurian cuisine, anchovies are among the most popular fish in the recipe book: cured, “al verde”, stuffed, marinated or simply fried. They belong to the family of oily fish, once known as “pan do mâ” (bread of the sea); they go very well with a nice C.D.O. white wine Cinque Terre. Another species which is part of the culinary tradition of fish are whitebait, in dialect “gianchetti”, sardine fry; currently the catch, strictly regulated until 2010, has been banned by the European Commission; the Regional Authority, to waive the ban, has prepared a Management plan which is now being examined by the European Union. The whitebaits were served boiled in salad with oil and lemon juice, or inserted in the mixture of omelettes and “frisceu” (savoury pancakes). It is in the sea of La Spezia, the extreme offshoot of Eastern Liguria, that the mussels find their ideal location, thanks to the richness of plankton, the tranquility of the waters and for the non abundance of salt. The Romans were the first to practice shellfish cultivation; the medieval monks carried on such practices and the fishermen of La Spezia quickly learned this technique, but it was only at the end of the 19th century that mussel farming was pursued on a scientific level. Mussels, calles “muscles” in the area of La Spezia, are eaten in various ways, including raw. They are great fried, stuffed, in a sauce and in a soup. Stuffed muscles Ligurian style Fresh fish from Camogli The peculiarity of the red shrimps of the Ligurian Sea is that they have a particularly tasty flavour; they are caught in the Gulfs of Santa Margherita Ligure and San Remo. The term “red shrimps” usually refers to a set of two species that are caught by trawling on the bathyal seabeds; the two species differ mainly in colour: the first species has a velvety dark red shade, whereas the second species adds pink, purple and light blue to red, varying among the individuals. The shrimps from the Ligurian Sea can also be savoured simply boiled and dressed with extra virgin olive oil “Riviera Ligure” , just a bit of lemon juice in order not to cover the taste, salt, pepper and some leaves of parsley. The symbol of the Festival is the pan in which the fish to be distributed is fried in, which has a diameter of 3.85 meters. The event is linked to the century-old festival of San Fortunato, the patron saint of fishermen. The small bay of Noli in the province in Savona opens out over a generous sea. Noli is a beautiful maritime hamlet of Byzantine origin, located in the district of Savona, which used to be a Maritime Republic. The fishermen from Noli represent a very old community, and their presence was fundamental in medieval times, when the fish resource was the main source of livelihood of the village. In particular, the fishermen were dedicated to the catch of the sand eel (G. cicerelus), as it is proven by the numerous historical documents. This type of fishing has always represented a food resource for the Ligurian coastal populations. Recent EU regulations no longer allow the use of the trawling net to catch the sand eel, as it is considered as a haulage tool and therefore regulated in a rather restrictive manner. Ligurian anchovies of the fishermen of Noli. The “cicerello” is a species of oily fish, which in the local cuisine is used as part of dishes of mixed fried fish, consumption without any waste. The tradition wants that they are stored “allo scabècciu” (soused): after undergoing a slight dessication, they are fried and placed in glass jars with vinegar and salt. Another variety which is caught mainly in Noli are the spicara maris, locally called “zerli”, small fish which are part of the traditional Ligurian catch. The “zerli” are also preserved “allo scabècciu”: after undergoing a slight dessication, losing 15% of humidity, they are fried and then placed in glass jars with herbs (bay leaf). The “zerli”, like the “lussotti” (small silvery fish), are savoured marinated as appetizers. The “musciàmme” is the most traditional and extraordinary preserved food product in Liguria, to be served cut into thin slices like truffle; once upon a time it used to be the fillet of dessicated dolphin. Today it is on the market in the version of “musciàmme” made with tuna or other fish. The colour is darker and the taste is definitely more defined. It is a food with an old world flavour. It was already in use as early as the twelfth century on board the galleys, where it was eaten with “gallette” (hard bread) dipped in water and vinegar, and with vegetables. The trade of the “musciàmme”, along with botargo, tuna and caviar, used to be an important international trafficproduct for the local noble families. “Musciàmme” keeps well when vacuum packed and it is eaten cut into very thin slices after it has been softened in a marinade with extra virgin olive oil “Riviera ligure”; however, it already represents a special gastronomic experience in itself. It is also a basic element of the “capponada” and complements the Fishing in the Golfo Paradiso is definitely the oldest activity practiced by the inhabitants Cicerelli of Noli of Camogli, one of the most beautiful and However, in order to deviate from such ban, characteristic fishing villages of the region, with Member States may predispose special its small port and its tall and colourful houses, all “Management Plans” able to prove the close to each other. The “tonnarella” of Camogli sustainability of this particular type of fishing. was first mentioned in 1603; it does not only The Regional Authorities have therefore drawn catch tuna fish, which today have become very up a proposal for a Management Plan, which has rare since they have changed their migration already been forwarded to the Ministry; this plan routes, but all species of fish which stumble into wishes to offer a suitable tool for a sustainable the net. Every year in Camogli, on the second management, aimed at preserving and Sunday of May, the Fish Festival takes place; it safeguarding this species through time and at the is one of the most renowned ones on a national same time maintaining an old fishing technique level; it was born in 1952 to give residents and which is done by using a tool part of the local visitors mixed fried fish. history and of the culture of the local community “cappon magro”. 24 25
The Ligurian cooking tradition In the hinterland of Imperia, in Triora, a typical bread is made, which has old origins. Triora is an old hamlet in the Argentina Valley and it is famous for some historical episodes related to the witchcraft trials. The bread of Triora is a mountain, homemade wholemeal bread, high in fibre and protein; it has a round and large shape, recognizable by the bran on the bottom. Once upon a time it used to be baked in communal ovens, laid on chestnuts leaves, which had the purpose of not let it stick to the surface of the oven. It has an exceptional preservability of a week at least; it is excellent when cut in slices, spread with “brusso” cheese. Another traditional bread of the hinterland of Imperia is the “carpasina”, prepared in Carpasio, in the Argentina Valley; it is a barley toasted bread, with a hard consistency and a typical golden The “farinata” is eaten warm, seasoned with ground black pepper. There are several variants, especially in Western Liguria, by adding to the basic mix: rosemary, borage, artichokes, mushrooms, gorgonzola cheese, onions and floured whitebait. These ingredients are added after mixing the olive oil, just before baking. The “panissa” is another dish which can be enjoyed in Liguria and again it is made with chickpea flour. Chickpea flour and water, cooked like “polenta”, cooled and cut into diamond shapes: here is what it is and what the “panissa” looks like; it is a filling, tasty and cheap dish. Between the fresh pastas, the “trofiette” or “trofie” are a type of spiral-shaped pasta, with a length of 1,5 to 2 cm; the ends are thinner than the centre. Born in the Eastern Italian Riviera, they are one of the glories of the cuisine of Recco. They are seasoned with pesto or walnut sauce, a harmonious blend of flavours, obtained by grinding the walnuts in the mortar, with the addition of olive oil, salt and a little cream or “quagliata” cheese and pine nuts. It has a creamy consistency, an ivory white colour and a sweet taste where the flavour of walnut can be recognized. Genoese Focaccia colour, which is softened with water before being eaten, seasoned with olive oil, garlic, tomatoes, anchovies and basil leaves. In the month of September, in Carpasio, you relive the period of sheep herding. The star of the celebration is the Carpasina, which, along with milk and cheese, represented the food of the shepherds when for a few months they went to live in the pastures. In addition to cheese focaccia from Recco, all the bakeries produce focaccia; hot, fragrant, and appetizing, it is a delicacy that can be enjoyed Farinata and other specialties all day, from the early morning breakfast to late night snack. It is prepared with wheat flour, extra virgin olive oil, salt, yeast and water; it can be flavoured with sage, which is minced and added directly to the dough, with chopped olives also mixed directly into the flour, or enriched with sliced onions which are spread onto the ready to bake dough. It is one of the main elements of Ligurian cuisine, soft or crisp, smooth or flavoured, with onions, rosemary or olives, all Ligurian bakeries make it, and many other bakeries outside the region do too. Simple and few ingredients for a delicious farinata: chickpea flour, water and oil, but most importantly the use of a large copper pan in a wood burning oven, which makes the dough hot and crisp, especially around the edges. Farinata, panissa, vegetable savoury cakes Taverns, restaurants and fried food shops, offer it, according to the tradition, spiced with ample amounts of oil and seasoned with salt and pepper alongside frisceu (savoury dumplings), that can be simple, with whitebait or cod, cuculli (a mixture always based with fried cickpea, stuffed vegetables (usually courgettes, onions, eggplants) cooked in the oven, and vegetable savoury cakes (potatoes and beans). The Andrea pizza (pissalandrea) is a focaccia with salted fish dedicated to Admiral Andrea D’Oria. This pizza is widespread throughout the western Italian Riviera; it is also found in the south of old France, the last offshoot of the Republic of Genoa, however it is slightly flatter and crispier. The original recipe has been enriched with new ingredients over the centuries, initially tomatoes and olives. There is also the sardenaira, pizza with sardines, another version of the same plate, where the anchovies are replaced by sardines. In the entire region, however predominantly eastern Genoa, the preparation of vegetarian ravioli made with herbs: Swiss chard, nettles, borage, wild asparagus has begun to spread. The most characteristic are the Recco style pansoti (Genoa); the name pansoti is derived from In the Savonese area, however, the farinata is not made with chickpea flour, but with wheat flour, a substantial difference even if the preparation is the same. One of the secrets is the high quality, Ligurian, extra virgin olive oil. It is certainly of Saracen origin, but something similar can be found in other parts of the Mediterranean and the Middle East. 26 Trofie and the ingredients for pesto 27
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