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Liguria, land of quality - Turismo in Liguria

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P.G.I. products<br />

Protected Geographical Indication<br />

The P.G.I. mark is awarded to those agricultural and food products for<br />

which a certa<strong>in</strong> <strong>quality</strong>, reputation or another characteristic depends<br />

on their geographical orig<strong>in</strong>, and at least one stage <strong>of</strong> the production<br />

process (production, transformation, process<strong>in</strong>g) takes place <strong>in</strong><br />

that particular area. However, all steps must follow the rules <strong>of</strong> the<br />

production regulation (Regulation EEC 2081/92).<br />

Anchovies process<strong>in</strong>g<br />

After manually remov<strong>in</strong>g the head and viscera, the anchovies are left<br />

to dry for a few hours. The clean anchovies are then placed radially<br />

<strong>in</strong> barrels, stacked <strong>in</strong> layers. The matur<strong>in</strong>g can take place <strong>in</strong> chestnut<br />

wood barrels or clay pots.<br />

Each layer <strong>of</strong> anchovies must be covered with common sea salt, and on the last layer<br />

a special hardwood disc must be placed and on top <strong>of</strong> it goes a weight <strong>of</strong> about 40 to 50 kg.<br />

The matur<strong>in</strong>g process lasts an average <strong>of</strong> 40 to 50 days. The ideal salt<strong>in</strong>g is done when the meat is<br />

firm, consistent and reaches a colour which goes from deep p<strong>in</strong>k to brown. After the maturation, the<br />

anchovies are transferred <strong>in</strong>to cyl<strong>in</strong>drical glass conta<strong>in</strong>ers called “arbanelle”.<br />

The <strong>Liguria</strong>n P.G.I. products are the Cured Anchovies <strong>of</strong> the <strong>Liguria</strong>n Sea;<br />

the Cheese Focaccia from Recco is go<strong>in</strong>g through the award<strong>in</strong>g stages.<br />

The cheese focaccia from Recco<br />

(next P.G.I.)<br />

The cured anchovies <strong>of</strong> the <strong>Liguria</strong>n Sea<br />

The production area <strong>in</strong>cludes the whole coast<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>Liguria</strong>. The anchovies <strong>of</strong> the <strong>Liguria</strong>n sea are<br />

preserved by salt<strong>in</strong>g, which gives the meat a<br />

compact appearance and a colour rang<strong>in</strong>g from<br />

deep p<strong>in</strong>k to brown.<br />

known as “pan do mâ” (bread <strong>of</strong> the sea), the<br />

anchovies are one <strong>of</strong> the most fished products<br />

<strong>of</strong> the sea and, consequently, one <strong>of</strong> the most<br />

consumed and exported.<br />

Thanks to the level <strong>of</strong> sal<strong>in</strong>ity <strong>of</strong> the waters<br />

along the <strong>Liguria</strong>n coast, the anchovies have a<br />

taste rang<strong>in</strong>g between savour<strong>in</strong>ess and delicacy,<br />

which makes them appreciable not only by<br />

the locals from <strong>Liguria</strong>, who savour them both<br />

fresh and cured, but also beyond regional<br />

boundaries.<br />

<strong>in</strong> the Middle ages they already were a<br />

barga<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g chip with Piedmont. from the<br />

twelfth century the preservation technique<br />

by cur<strong>in</strong>g, salt<strong>in</strong>g, and place <strong>in</strong> olive oil<br />

was perfected. <strong>in</strong> <strong>Liguria</strong>, salt<strong>in</strong>g is an old<br />

technique. The particular morphology and<br />

regional location (yearly average temperature,<br />

air humidity and sal<strong>in</strong>ity <strong>of</strong> the sea) allow<br />

obta<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g an ideal and characteristic level.<br />

Cured anchovies <strong>of</strong> the <strong>Liguria</strong>n Sea<br />

The production area <strong>of</strong> the cheese focaccia from<br />

Recco is represented by the entire territory <strong>of</strong><br />

the municipality <strong>of</strong> recco and the neighbour<strong>in</strong>g<br />

municipalities <strong>of</strong> avegno, sori and camogli.<br />

accord<strong>in</strong>g to food historians, the orig<strong>in</strong>s <strong>of</strong> the<br />

“focaccia” date back to the time <strong>of</strong> the saracen<br />

<strong>in</strong>vasions, when the genoese population, <strong>in</strong> order<br />

to escape from the <strong>in</strong>vader, took refuge <strong>in</strong> the<br />

mounta<strong>in</strong>s: cheese, flour and a little oil were the<br />

<strong>in</strong>gredients available <strong>in</strong> greater quantities and on<br />

which the preparation <strong>of</strong> the foods which were<br />

part <strong>of</strong> the daily diet was based upon.<br />

until the end <strong>of</strong> the 19th century the “focaccia”<br />

was only eaten dur<strong>in</strong>g the period between the<br />

end <strong>of</strong> october and early november, especially<br />

on all sa<strong>in</strong>ts’ day (1st nov). at that time the<br />

cattle were fed partly with fresh forage and<br />

partly with dried forage from the valley, and this<br />

comb<strong>in</strong>ation gave a slightly sour taste to the milk<br />

and cheese products, mak<strong>in</strong>g them especially<br />

suitable as fill<strong>in</strong>g for the “focaccias”.<br />

although the cheese focaccia from recco<br />

preserves old orig<strong>in</strong>s, surely dat<strong>in</strong>g back before<br />

the twelfth century, its success as a typical<br />

product is relatively new and can be traced back<br />

to the early 19th century, when the recipe was<br />

rediscovered and promoted by a small group <strong>of</strong><br />

local restaurateurs.<br />

Cheese focaccia from Recco<br />

The cheese focaccia from recco is a baked<br />

product obta<strong>in</strong>ed from process<strong>in</strong>g a dough<br />

made from s<strong>of</strong>t wheat flour, extra virg<strong>in</strong> olive oil<br />

“riviera Ligure”, water and salt, stuffed with fresh<br />

cheese. “l.l.t.” (acronym for “latte ligure tracciato”,<br />

i.e. specific for the cheese focaccia) and then<br />

cooked <strong>in</strong> the oven. The focaccia is then spr<strong>in</strong>kled<br />

with a drizzle <strong>of</strong> extra virg<strong>in</strong> olive oil “riviera<br />

Ligure”, and perhaps some salt. cook<strong>in</strong>g must<br />

take place <strong>in</strong> ovens with a temperature between<br />

270 and 320 ° c for 4 to 8 m<strong>in</strong>utes, until the<br />

surface <strong>of</strong> the product takes on a golden colour,<br />

with bubbles or brown streaks. it has a circular,<br />

square or rectangular shape, with a height <strong>of</strong> less<br />

than 1 cm. it is crumbly on top and s<strong>of</strong>t <strong>in</strong>side.<br />

a real treat for the palate.<br />

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