Liguria, land of quality - Turismo in Liguria

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The main dish of culinary tradition in Liguria during the period of Lent is “cappon magro”, which brings together products of the land (vegetables) with those of the sea (fish and shellfish), creating a plate of great taste and colour. The origins of this plate are old, “cappon magro” was initially a poor man’s plate, born out of the necessity to use leftover fish from soup (typically capon, a fish of little value), then adding vegetables. Its lavish appearance suggests that it re-emerged in the plentiful Baroque era, a time when abundance also reigned in the kitchen. “Bagnun” (a soup made with anchovies) is a typical recipe of the Western Italian Riviera, especially in Sestri Levante and Riva Trigoso, where every year a festival with the same name takes place. It originates from the strong necessity to provide sailors with fresh food products of easy retrieval during long periods of navigation. A Treat to the Palate In the entire hinterland of Liguria, honey is one of the most natural foods that exists, as it does not require any treatment, neither in production nor for preservation. The typical honeys are produced from indigenous nectars from the flora of the hinterland: chestnut, acacia, heather, strawberry tree and yarrows. The colour of acacia honey is straw yellow, chestnut honey is amber and the yarrow honey varies from light to dark shades depending on the presence of honeydew. Just as the colour varies, so does the flavour: for example chestnut honey tends to be more bitter than that of acacia or yarrow. The coast and the hinterland between Varazze and the Finale Ligure in the province of Savona is the production location for the bitter orange of Savona; the fruit comes prepared in different ways: syruped, candied, in liquor, in elixirs, as jam and as a mustard. 25/30 cm and sometimes from 10/15 cm. The inside is stuffed with pine nuts, raisins, pieces of candied fruit, fennel seeds and crushed pistachios, all flavoured with orange flower water. The typical Christmas sweet of Genoa par excellence looks rough and it’s rich on the inside. The ingredients are of undeniable Arabic origin and Genoese merchants must have came across this cake on their voyages and brought it home, where, over the centuries, it was modified and enhanced. Genoese Pandolce Anchovies Bagnun “Capponadda” could simply be defined as the “salad of the sailor”. It’s a dish born aboard ships, where there was no possibility of cooking and where it was necessary to eat sufficiently moist dishes that quench thirst, while not causing sea sickness. It is made with “gallette del marinaio” (hard bread), salad tomatoes, preferably the “cuore di bue” variety, salted anchovy fillets (or musciàmme), black olives, capers, hardboiled eggs (optional), pickles (optional), extra virgin olive oil made from Ligurian olives, vinegar and salt. Another fish recipe typical of the east, in particular Sestri Levante and Chiavari, is “Ciuppín”, a fish soup accompanied by a piece of toasted bread, made using low grade fish, but very flavourful none the less. The fish is mixed with onions, flavoring, tomatoes, parsley, white wine, salt and extra virgin olive oil made from Ligurian olives. Originally it was more watery then it is today, as the name sûppin, meaning a thinner soup, suggests. Amaretti di Sassello The most extensive production, which is famous worldwide, is the one made which has been made for about three centuries in Liguria, in the area of Savona. Here “chinotti” lie in a coastal zone from 2 to 300 meters above sea level, between Varazze and Finale, extending deep into the valleys. The “amaretti di Sassello” are biscuits made from almond paste, with a soft consistency, typically in a round and flattened shape. In Sassello the production of “amaretti” began in the 17th century and the recipe has remained unchanged. The renowned little sweet is celebrated every July during the homonymous festival. Sassello, a small village near Savona was the first town in Italy to be awarded the orange flag. It is an environmental tourist quality seal awarded by Italian Touring Club; it is given to small resorts of the hinterland that stand out for their offer of excellence and a quality reception. “Spongata” is a typical sweet from Sarzana, in the hinterland of La Spezia; it’s made from two sheets of flour, which are embossed using different old stamps made of wood. The top sheet is perforated to allow the correct amount of cooking in the interior. They are made delicious thanks to their filling, a kind of jam, spread between the folds, enriched with pine nuts, The Genoese “pandolce” (sweet cake) has a circular shape with a diameter ranging from 32 Sestri Levante 33
almonds, spices and other flavourings. The round shape of the pie is created by merging the two discs and pressing the edges with a special compass. It is the traditional Christmas sweet. The town of Sarzana has always been an important communications crossroad; it is located at the end of the Magra Valley, only a few kilometres from the estuary of the river, in a relatively flat area known as the “Piana di Sarzana” (Plain of Sarzana). Inhabited since Neolithic times, people can still visit its ancient fortresses, towers and palaces. Another typical sweet from the hinterland of the La Spezia is “Buccellato”, a sweet cake oven cooked in the shape of a doughnut, with a diameter of around 25 cm and 5 or 6 cm thick sprinkled with powdered sugar. “Cavagnetto di Brugnato” is a sweet in the shape of a small basket with a handle, in which a whole shelled egg is placed; it is part of local Easter tradition. Baci di Alassio “Baci di Alassio” are also called “Baci della riviera” and are made with hazelnuts, egg whites, honey and sugar; the cream that connects the two semicircles is made of chocolate and boiled cream. The town of Alassio is one of the most famous beach resorts of the Western Italian Riviera. Since the Fifties it has been a popular destination for VIPs along with Portofino and San Remo. “Michetta” is a small, sweet, oval shaped pastry, classically in the form of a knot; the more modern one has a length of 4 cm and a width of 2 cm. It is a sweet spread throughout the Nervia Valley, in particular in Dolceacqua. Dolceacqua is an old village famous for its medieval bridge, which fascinated Claude Monet, for its “Rossese” wine loved by pope Paul III, the Doria family, and Napoleon and for its “michetta”, a special type of white bread. Legend has it that the young brides brought “michette” to feudal lords who held the right of “ius primae noctis” and offered it as a symbol of their virginity, therefore avoiding the obstacle. Other regional agricultural products Floriculture in the Liguria region Nursery gardening represents around 6% of the total value of national agricultural production. On a national level, Liguria is the most important region in this sector, with a marked concentration in Imperia and Savona. Regional specialization and the presence of actors representing the complete chain (education, research, production, marketing) has pushed the Regional Authority to establish the specific Nursery Gardening agricultural district of Western Liguria. Production can be divided into five main types (which indicate the most important productions): Cut flowers (rose, buttercup, anemone) - represent about one quarter of the total Italian production, Leaves and fronds (green, flowering and with fruit), cut (mimosa, broom, ruscus, eucalyptus, pittosporum, etc.), Ornamental plants in pots (cyclamen, daisy, geranium, etc.), Potted herbs (basil, mint, lavender, sage, rosemary), Succulents (several hundreds of species). The products, even within the five main categories, are extremely assorted, thanks to a great diversification in species and varieties. The are more than 5,000 companies working in this sector in Liguria, from breeders and farmers to traders, transporters and artisans, and has a total estimated turnover of 500 million Euros. Other than the national market, foreign markets include Holland, Germany, Austria, Switzerland and more generally central Northern Europe. In addition, some products are also popular in North America and the Far East. “Infiorata” (flower art festival) - Diano Marina Greenhouses “Canestrello” is a typical sweet of the Genoese hinterland (Aveto Valley, Trebbia Valley and Varenna Valley), but also of Savona and La Spezia; it is shaped like a doughnut with a central hole, good for breakfast and even more appropriate as a snack with tea or sweet wine. These soft and crumbly shortbread biscuits are recognizable by the scalloping of the edges and plenty of butter, which provides an unquestionable goodness. “Cubaite”, probably of Eastern origin, is a dessert popular in Liguria. It typically consists of two pods with a filling made with hazelnuts, walnuts or almonds, orange peel and honey. In this area, it was traditionally prepared for special religious occasions and festivities. Canestrelli 34 35
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Liguria, land of quality - Turismo in Liguria

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