instruction manual - Hangar 9

TM 

HANGAR 9 

INSTRUCTION MANUAL 

Specifications 

Wing Span 

Wing Area 

Approx. Weight 

Engine Requirements 

.64-3/4 inches 

.712-1/4 inch2 

.4-3/4-5 1/2 lbs. 

.40-.46 2-cycle 

.40-.50 4-cycle 

Raising the Standard of Quality 

in Almost-Ready-To-Fly Aircraft 

• True UltraCote covering 

• Positive self-righting flight characteristics 

• 90% pre-built 

• Extensive hardware kit included 

• Break away motor mount prevents engine 

damage during minor nose-overs 

90 % 

PRE-BUILT 

ALMOST READY-TO-FLY

TICKET TO FLY 

R/C Pilot Program 

The Total Training Package 

Congratulations on your selection of the Hangar 9 Easy Fly 

40! Your kit comes complete with the “TICKET TO FLY R/C 

Pilot Program,” a detailed video instruction guide designed 

to help beginners become successful pilots. 

This video guides you through every step of the learning 

process — from building tricks and tips through your first solo flights. The 

video shows in-depth procedures on radio setup, trimming the plane, and 

breaking-in and tuning your engine. It covers the basic flight concepts you 

need to know, like takeoffs, landings and, most importantly, how to find and 

work with a qualified instructor. You’ll find out just what to expect when 

you arrive at the flying field… before you even get there. 

When you use the video in conjunction with the complete, photo-illustrated 

instruction manual, you’ll gain the confidence and ability to successfully 

meet the challenge of R/C flight. This video is an invaluable teaching aid 

which will shorten the time it takes to properly learn to operate and fly the 

Easy Fly 40. 

Good Luck and Good Flying! 

TM 

2

Table Of Contents 

Introduction 3 

Contents Of Kit 4 

Equipment Required 5 

Tools And Supplies Required 5 

Field Equipment Required 6 

Optional Field Equipment 7 

Section 1: Assembling The Wings 8 

Section 2: Joining The Wing Halves 9 

Section 3: Hinging The Rudder And Elevator 12 

Section 4: Installing The Aileron Servo Trays 13 

Section 5: Assembling The Fuselage 16 

Section 6: Installing The Nose Gear 17 

Section 7: Installing The Wing Dowels 18 

Section 8: Assembling The Fuel Tank 19 

Section 9: Installing The Fuel Tank 21 

Section 10: Installing The Control Horns 22 

Section 11: Installing The Horizontal & Vertical Stabilizers 24 

Section 12: Installing The Engine 26 

Section 13: Installing The Radio 29 

Section 14: Installing The Linkages 32 

Section 15: Setting Up The Radio 38 

Section 16: Balancing The Model 39 

Pre-Flight Check 40 

Pre-Flight At The Field 41 

Flight Instructions 42 

AMA Safety Codes 43 

Glossary 44 

3

Introduction 

Congratulations! 

You are the proud owner of the highest quality almost-ready-to-fly (ARF) sport trainer available. The Easy Fly 

40 is professionally built and pre-covered by craftsmen using genuine UltraCote ® covering. The positive selfrighting 

flight characteristics and excellent slow-speed handling make the Easy Fly 40 one of the easiest-to-fly 

airplanes available. Beyond its positive, gentle flight mannerisms, the Easy Fly 40 also offers outstanding 

sport aerobatic capabilities. Loops, rolls, sustained inverted flight, and even outside maneuvers are all well 

within its flight envelope. 

In order for you to get the best performance and most enjoyment from your Easy Fly 40, it is important to 

carefully read and follow this manual. If you’re a first-time flier, we strongly suggest that you seek qualified 

help during your first flights. Your local hobby shop will be able to put you in touch with qualified pilots and a 

local club. 

ULTRACOTE® 

UltraCote is a registered trademark of Carl 

Goldberg Models 

The Easy Fly 40 is professionally built and 

pre-covered by craftsmen using genuine UltraCote® 

covering. UltraCote is completely reparable and can 

be found at your local hobby shop. 

Note: Due to temperature changes during shipping, the covering on your Easy Fly may be slightly wrinkled. 

The careful use of a heat gun or iron is recommended to shrink the UltraCote ® until its taut. 

Warning 

An R/C aircraft is not a toy! If misused, it can cause serious bodily harm and damage to property. Fly only in 

open areas, preferably AMA (Academy of Model Aeronautics) approved flying sites, and have an experienced 

modeler/pilot preflight your aircraft before its first flight and perform the aircraft’s first test flights. Please 

follow all instructions included with your radio and engine. We cannot stress strongly enough the importance 

of having an experienced pilot preflight your aircraft and be present during your first test flights! 

4

Contents Of Kit 

B 

E 

C 

D 

A 

A. Fuselage (#HAN1401) 

B. Right wing half with aileron (#HAN1402) 

C. Left wing half with aileron (#HAN1402) 

D. Vertical stabilizer with rudder (#HAN1403) 

E. Horizontal stabilizer with elevator (#HAN1404) 

1 

7 

11 

3 

2 

4 

6 

9 

5 

8 

1. Pushrods 

2. Aileron servo mounts (2) 

3. Main landing gear 

4. Nose landing gear 

5. Spinner 

6. Motor mounts and hardware 

7. Wheels (3) 

8. Fuel tank and hardware 

9. Rubber bands (8) 

10. Control horns 

11. Wing joiner 

10 

5

Equipment Required 

R/C Radio System 

4 Channels (minimum) 

4 Standard Servos 

Standard 450-650 mAh Battery 

R/C Engine 

.40-.45 2-Cycle with Muffler 

Recommended JR Systems 

JR F400 FM 

JR XP642 

JR XP783 

JR XP8103 

Recommended Thunder Tiger Engine 

GP .42 with Muffler 

R/C Aircraft Propeller 

10-6 Prop with a .40-.46 Size Engine 

Tools And Supplies Required 

Adhesives 

CA (cyanoacrylate) Glue (instant/thin and medium viscosity) 

CA Remover (dissolve) 

5-Minute Epoxy 


Tools 

Clips (e.g. clothespins, binder clips) 

Cloth 

Drill and Assorted Drill Bits 

Heat Gun 

Heat Iron 

Hobby Knife 

Masking Tape 

Needle Nose Pliers 

Paper Towels 

Pencil 

#1 and #2 Phillips Screwdrivers 

Rubbing Alcohol 

Ruler (straight edge) 

Sandpaper 

Scissors 

Straight Screwdriver 

Thread Lock (e.g., Loc Tite Blue) 

Toothpicks 

90-Degree Triangle 

Wax Paper 

Z-Bender Pliers 

6

Field Equipment Required 

HAN3000 – 2-cycle Performance Plug MDC101 Glow Driver Model Airplane Fuel 

HAN 3005 – Extra Life Sport Plug 

HAN104 12V Super Starter HAN102 12V Battery HAN118 Fuel Pump 

HAN2510 Glow Plug Wrench 

7

Optional Field Equipment 

Extra Propellers Flight Box Power Panel 

Prop Wrench Miscellaneous Tools Paper Towels 

#64 Rubber Bands After Run Oil Extra Glow Plugs 

8

Section 1: Assembling The Wings 

Parts Needed 

Left Wing Panel with Aileron and Hinges 

Right Wing Panel with Aileron and Hinges 

Tools Needed 

CA Remover 


Thin Instant CA Glue 

Paper Towels 


Toothpicks 

❑ 1. 

Carefully remove the aileron from the right wing panel. 

Note where the hinges and the aileron torque rod fit into 

the aileron. 

❑ 5. 

Wipe off any excess epoxy using a paper towel and 

rubbing alcohol. 

❑ 2. 

Mix a small amount of 30-minute epoxy, carefully 

following the instructions included with the epoxy. 

❑ 6. 

Deflect the aileron and apply a small amount of thin CA 

glue to each hinge. Make sure that the CA glue 

penetrates into the aileron and wing while maintaining a 

1/16” aileron gap. 

❑ 3. 

Using a toothpick, apply epoxy into the ailerons’ torque 

rod hole. Fill the hole 1/2 full. 

❑ 7. 

Wipe off any excess CA glue using CA remover and a 

paper towel. 

❑ 4. 

Replace the aileron on the right wing half. Make sure 

the hinges slide in place and the aileron torque rod 

inserts into its respective hole in the aileron. The gap 

between aileron and wing should be a constant 1/16”. 

❑ 8. Repeat this process for the left wing (Steps 1-7). 

Note: 

After the CA has dried completely, check to ensure that 

the hinges are secure by pulling firmly on the ailerons. 

Important: 

The ailerons are fitted in place but not glued in. They 

must be correctly glued prior to flying. 

9

Section 2: Joining The Wing Halves 

Parts Needed 

Aileron Servo Mounts (2) 

Dihedral Brace 

Left Wing Half from Section 1 

Right Wing Half from Section 1 

Standard Servo (1) 

Tools Needed 


Hobby Knife 

Masking Tape 

Paper Towels 

Pencil 


Ruler 

Wax Paper 

❑ 1. 

Using a pencil, mark both wing roots (the exposed 

wood end of the wing halves) as shown. 

❑ 2. Using a hobby knife, carefully cut out the marked 

section. 

Important: 

Do not cut into hard wood wing joiner section. 

10


CONTINUED 

❑ 3. 

Locate the dihedral brace (also called the wing joiner). 

Using a ruler and pencil, mark the exact center of the 

brace as shown. 

❑ 5. 

Coat one half of the dihedral brace with epoxy up to the 

line. Note the orientation of the V of the dihedral 

brace. Install the epoxy-coated side of the dihedral 

brace into a wing half up to the line, making sure the V 

of the dihedral brace is positioned correctly as shown. 

❑ 4. 

Mix approximately 2 ounces of 30-minute epoxy. In 

this step, be sure to use plenty of epoxy. Using a scrap 

piece of wood, smear the epoxy into the wing joiner 

cavity of both wings. (Remember, use plenty of epoxy.) 

11


❑ 6. 

Apply epoxy to the exposed area (other end) of the 

dihedral brace. Uniformly coat both wing roots with 

30-minute epoxy. 

❑ 7. 

CONTINUED 

Carefully slide the two wing halves together. Firmly 

press the two halves together, allowing the excess 

epoxy to run out. Using rubbing alcohol and a paper 

towel, clean off the excess epoxy. 

Important: 

Be sure the wings are pressed firmly together at the 

center section. Be sure that the leading and trailing 

edges line up properly. Use masking tape as necessary 

to hold the wing halves in position. 

❑ 8. 

Place a 12” x 12” sheet of wax paper on the edge of a 

flat table. Place the center section of the wing on the 

wax paper with the aileron torque rod hanging off the 

edge of the table. Prop up each wing tip 2-1/2 inches 

off the table as shown. Books work well for this. 

❑ 9. 

Wipe off any excess epoxy using rubbing alcohol and 

paper towels. Allow the wing to set undisturbed 

overnight to dry completely. 

12

Section 3: Hinging The Rudder And Elevator 

Parts Needed 

Horizontal Stabilizer with Elevator and Hinges 

Vertical Stabilizer with Rudder and Hinges 

Tools Needed 

CA Remover 

Paper Towels 


❑ 1. 

Push the elevator and horizontal stabilizer together until 

there is a constant 1/16” gap between the two and the 

edges are lined up correctly. 

❑ 4. 

Wipe off any excess CA using CA remover and a paper 

towel. Set these assemblies aside for now. 

❑ 2. 

❑ 3. 

Deflect the elevator and apply thin CA glue at the 

hinges so that it absorbs both into the stabilizer and the 

elevator (4 places). 

Using the same technique, hinge the rudder to the 

vertical stabilizer. 

Note: 

After CA has dried completely, check to ensure that the 

hinges are secured by pulling firmly on the control 

surfaces. 

13

Section 4: Installing The Aileron Servo Trays 

Parts Needed 

Aileron Servo Trays (2) 

Wing Center Section Tape 

Tools Needed 

Clips (e.g., clothespins, 

binder clips) (4) 


Hobby Knife 

Masking Tape 

Paper Towels 

Pencil 

Ruler 

❑ 1. 

Mix a small amount of 5-minute epoxy as per the 

instructions included with the epoxy. Remember, once 

this epoxy is mixed, you have only 5 minutes of 

working time until it dries. 

❑ 4. 

Using a ruler, measure the distance on the bottom of 

the wing at the center line 5-1/2 inches from the trailing 

edge and mark with a pencil. 

❑ 2. 

Spread a thin layer of epoxy over the entire surface of 

one side of an aileron tray. 

❑ 5. 

Next, measure 3-3/4 inches from the leading edge back 

to the center line and mark with a pencil. 

❑ 3. 

Join the two aileron trays as shown and clamp them 

together using four clips. Be sure the two trays are 

properly aligned. Wipe off any excess epoxy with a 

paper towel and set aside to dry for 15 minutes. 

14


CONTINUED 

❑ 6. 

Unclamp the aileron tray when dry and position it on 

the center line so the two marks are visible on the 

inside of the aileron tray. 

❑ 9. 

Carefully remove the covering in the aileron tray area. 

This is necessary so that the tray will properly adhere to 

the wing. 

❑ 7. 

Carefully trace around the outside of the aileron tray 

using a pencil. 

❑ 10. Mix a small amount of 5-minute epoxy and spread it 

over the entire area of one side of the servo tray. 

❑ 8. 

Remove the aileron tray. Using a sharp hobby knife, 

carefully cut through the plastic covering. Be careful 

not to cut into the wood on the line you just made in 

Step 7. 

15


❑ 11. Place the aileron tray, glue side down, on the exposed 

wood area on the bottom of the wing and gently press it 

into position. Use masking tape if necessary to hold in 

position until dry. Allow 15 minutes for the epoxy to 

cure. 

CONTINUED 

❑ 13. Locate the wing center tape (white adhesive-backed 

tape) and remove the adhesive backing. Starting at the 

edge of the aileron tray, apply the tape around the wing 

at the center section, ending at the other side of the 

tray. Use a hobby knife to trim the excess length of 

tape. Your wing is now complete. 

❑ 12. Using a sharp hobby knife, carefully cut out the balsa 

wood from the inside section of the aileron tray and 

remove. 

❑ 14. Locate the small blue decal (square in shape) on the 

decal sheet included with your kit. Apply this decal to 

the leading edge of the wing to cover the wing center 

tape that you have just applied. Press firmly to ensure 

that the decal adheres properly to the wing. 

16

Section 5: Assembling The Fuselage 

Parts Needed 

Fuselage 

Main Landing Gear (2 pcs) 

Main Landing Gear Hardware 

Wheels (2 pcs) 

Wheel Collars with Screws (2 pcs) 

Tools Needed 

Drill with 1/16” Drill Bit 

#1 and #2 Phillips Screwdrivers 

Thread Lock 

❑ 1. 

Locate the main landing gear slot in the bottom of the 

fuselage. Position the two landing gear straps across 

the slot as shown and drill four 1/16” holes using the 

straps as a guide. Remove the straps after all four holes 

are drilled. 

❑ 3. 

Reposition the landing gear straps over the 1/16” hole 

you drilled in Step 1. Screw into position with the four 

sheet metal screws provided. 

❑ 2. 

Locate the two main landing gear struts and insert them 

into the landing gear slot as shown. Make sure the ends 

fit into the holes in the edges of the slot. 

❑ 4. 

Place the wheels on the ends of the struts and secure 

them with the supplied wheel collars. Use thread lock 

on the collar screws. 

17

Section 6: Installing The Nose Gear 

Parts Needed 

Nose Gear Wheel (1) 

Spring Wheel Collar with Screws (2) 

Steering Arm 

Tools Needed 

#2 Phillips Screwdriver 

Thread Lock 

❑ 1. 

The nose gear mount is pre-assembled onto the front 

firewall of the fuselage. Locate the nose gear. On the 

straight end, first slide the steering arm onto the nose 

gear (note the orientation as shown in the photo). Use 

thread lock and a #2 Phillips screwdriver to secure the 

steering arm in place. Next, install a collar and secure it 

in place with the thread lock and a machine screw. Now 

slide the spring into position. 

❑ 3. 

Attach the nose wheel and hold it in place using a 

wheel collar and screw. 

❑ 2. 

Insert the nose gear assembly from Step 1 into the nose 

gear mount (attached to the front of the fuselage). Be 

sure the spring stays in position and rests against the 

nose gear mount. Install the collar on the top end of the 

landing gear flush with the landing gear, and secure it 

into position with a screw and the thread lock. 

18

Section 7: Installing The Wing Dowels 

Parts Needed 

Fuselage 

Wing Dowels (2) 

Tools Needed 

CA Remover 

Hobby Knife 

Paper Towel 


❑ 1. 

Using a sharp hobby knife, carefully cut the covering 

around the four holes as shown, leaving a circle that the 

dowel will be pressed into. 

❑ 2. 

Install the two dowels and position them so that an 

equal amount of dowel extends from each side of the 

fuselage. Using thin CA glue, apply five drops around 

each side of the wing dowel (4 places) where the dowel 

touches the fuselage. 

❑ 3. 

If necessary, use a paper towel and CA remover to wipe 

off any excess CA glue. 

19

Section 8: Assembling The Fuel Tank 

Parts Needed 

Clunk (brass fuel pickup) 

Copper Tube, Long (vent) 

Copper Tube, Short (pickup) 

Fuel Line, Small 

Fuel Tank 

Plastic Cups (2) 

Rubber Stopper 

3mm Screw and 3mm Nut 

Tools Needed 

Hobby Knife 


❑ 1. 

Locate the black rubber stopper. Insert the short copper 

tube into one of the open holes in the stopper so that an 

equal amount of tube extends from each side. This tube 

will be the fuel tank pickup tube. 

❑ 3. 

Slide this tube into the other open hole of the stopper, 

as shown. 

❑ 2. 

Locate the long copper tube and bend it using your 

fingers, as shown. This tube will be the fuel tank vent 

tube. 

❑ 4. 

Slide the two white plastic caps over the copper tubes 

as shown. Note the orientation of the caps. The small 

inside cap and the three “pegs” face away from the 

black rubber stopper. The large outside cap and the 

“raised center” go away from the black rubber stopper. 

20


❑ 5. Locate the small diameter fuel tubing and cut it to 3” 

in length. This tubing will be used for the fuel pick-up 

inside the fuel tank. Insert the brass clunk into one end 

of the fuel tubing. 

❑ 7. 

CONTINUED 

Press the 3mm locknut between the three pegs on the 

inside white plastic cap as shown. 

❑ 6. 

Install the open tube end of the clunk and tubing 

assembly on the short copper tubing. 

❑ 8. 

Carefully insert the assembly into the fuel tank. Note the 

position of the vent tube. It must be at the top of the fuel 

tank to function properly. 

21


❑ 9. 

Insert a 3mm screw into the center hole of the stopper 

and tighten. 

CONTINUED 

Important: 

Remember which tube is the fuel pick-up and which is 

the vent so that you can properly connect the fuel tank 

to the engine in Section 12. 

Section 9: Installing The Fuel Tank 

Parts Needed 

Fuel Tank Assembly (from Section 8) 

Fuselage 

Tools Needed 

None 

❑ 1. 

Note that the fuel stopper is mounted closer to one 

edge of the tank than the other. This “closer edge” is 

the top of the tank. Slide the tank into the fuselage 

stopper first. Make sure that the top of the tank is 

positioned towards the top of the fuselage. 

❑ 2. 

Press the tank into position until the stopper inserts 

into the hole in the firewall. The white plastic cap will 

be nearly flush with the firewall. 

22

Section 10: Installing The Control Horns 

Parts Needed 

Control Horn with Backplate (2) 

Horizontal Stabilizer with Elevator 

Small Phillips Screw (4) 

Vertical Stabilizer with Rudder 

Tools Needed 


Pencil 


Ruler 

❑ 1. 

Position one of the control horns on the bottom of the 

elevator as shown. The vertical section of the control 

horn must be positioned exactly in line with the cutaway 

portions of the covering, and the four holes must 

be in line with the hinge. 

❑ 3. 

Install the control horn using the two screws and the 

back plate and tighten the screws with a #1 Phillips 

screwdriver. 

❑ 2. 

Using a pencil, mark the position of the two screws on 

the elevator. Next, drill two 1/16” holes through the 

elevator where marked. 

❑ 4. 

Using a pencil, measure up 1/2” from the bottom of the 

rudder and mark. 

23

Section 10: Installing The Control Horns 

CONTINUED 

❑ 5. 

Position the rudder control horn as shown, with the 

mark just below the edge of the control horn. 

❑ 6. 

Now mark, drill, and install the horn as you did 

previously for the elevator. 

24

Section 11: Installing The Horizontal & Vertical Stabilizers 

Parts Needed 

Fuselage 

Horizontal Stabilizer Assembly 

Vertical Stabilizer Assembly 

Tools Needed 

Hobby Knife 

Ruler 


90-Degree Triangle 

Pencil 


Paper Towels 

❑ 1. 

Using a hobby knife, carefully cut out the covering at 

the front of the horizontal stabilizer slot as shown. The 

vertical stabilizer will later be inserted into this slot. 

❑ 3. 

Position the horizontal stabilizer in place on the 

fuselage and trial fit the vertical stabilizer in place. 

Using a pencil, mark where the horizontal stabilizer and 

vertical stabilizer meet on the vertical fin on both sides. 

❑ 2. 

Using a hobby knife, carefully cut out the openings on 

the top rear of the fuselage. Also, cut out the plywood 

section in the rear-most slot. The rear-most cutout is 

where the vertical fin will fit; the forward cutout is for 

the rudder pushrod exit. 

❑ 4. 

Remove the vertical stabilizer and cut away the covering 

below the marked section. Be careful not to cut into the 

wood. A ruler is helpful in making a straight cut. 

25

Section 11: Installing The Horizontal & Vertical Stabilizers 

CONTINUED 

❑ 5. 

Mix approximately 1 ounce of 30-minute epoxy. Apply 

a generous amount of epoxy to the rear fuselage section 

where the horizontal stabilizer mounts. Also apply 

epoxy to the exposed balsa wood on the bottom of the 

horizontal stabilizer. 

❑ 7. 

Apply 30-minute epoxy to the area on the vertical 

stabilizer wood section from which you cut the covering 

in Step 4. 

❑ 6. 

Install the horizontal stabilizer by pressing it into 

position. Carefully align the horizontal stabilizer to the 

fuselage. 

❑ 8. 

Carefully insert the vertical stabilizer into the horizontal 

stabilizer as shown. Be sure that it fully seats. Wipe 

away the excess epoxy with rubbing alcohol and a 

paper towel. 

❑ 9. 

Using a 90-degree triangle, align the vertical stabilizer 

exactly perpendicular to the horizontal stabilizer. 

APPLYING THE DECALS 

Using the box cover as a guide, simply apply the decals 

to their proper locations. 

26

Section 12: Installing The Engine 

Parts Needed 

Engine (not included) 

Engine Mounts (2) 

Engine Screws, Nuts, Washers (8) 

Fuel Tubing 

Fuselage 

Tools Needed 


Pencil 


❑ 1. 

Locate the two engine mounts. Note that they are cut on 

an angle. They are designed to put right thrust into the 

engine. 

❑ 3. 

Remove the mounts and drill four 1/8” holes at the 

points you marked. 

❑ 2. 

Place the engine mounts, as shown, in the front of the 

fuselage, noting the angled edges. Position the engine 

to the right (right thrust). Trial fit the engine in place. 

Using a pencil, mark the position of the four holes that 

secure the mounts to the fuselage, as shown. 

❑ 4. 

Reposition the engine mounts and engine on the 

fuselage, making sure right thrust is achieved, and 

mark through the holes in the engine mount with a 

pencil. 

Note: 

Motor mount in fuselage is designed with 8° of 

downthrust. 

27


❑ 5. Remove the engine and mounts and drill four 1/8” 

holes through the fuselage where marked. 

❑ 7. 

CONTINUED 

Place the engine and the motor mounts in the desired 

position. It is helpful to have the prop and spinner 

installed at this time to check the clearance. Using a 

pencil, carefully mark the engine mount through the 

holes in the engine mount flange. Remove the engine 

and drill four 1/8” holes where marked. 

❑ 6. 

Place the motor mounts back into the fuselage and 

fasten them into place with four of the screws, washers, 

and nuts provided. 

❑ 8. 

Secure the engine in place using the four remaining 

screws, nuts, and washers. 

28


CONTINUED 

❑ 9. 

Install the muffler per the instructions included with the 

engine. Now install the fuel tubing. Connect the vent 

tube from the fuel tank to the muffler nipple and the 

other tube from the fuel tank to the carburetor nipple. 

Special Instructions for Installing a 4-Cycle 

Engine 

The Easy Fly 40 is designed to also accept .40-.65 

4-cycle engines. The installation is similar to the 

2-cycle engine installation except that it may be 

necessary to trim away some of the plywood in the 

nose of the fuselage in order to allow the wider 4-cycle 

engine ease of clearance. 

29

Section 13: Installing The Radio 

Parts Needed 

4-Channel Radio System with 4 Standard Servos and 

Hardware (not included) 

Fuselage 

Radio Packing Foam (not included) 

Wing 

Tools Needed 


Hobby Knife 

Pencil 


Installing the Aileron Servo 

❑ 3. 

Place the aileron servo back in its mount and secure it 

in place with the four screws included with the servo. 

❑ 1. 

Locate the wing and one of the standard servos. Put 

the servo grommets and eyelets in the servo and place 

the servo in the aileron mount. Using a pencil, mark the 

four places to be drilled. 

❑ 2. 

Remove the aileron servo and drill four 1/16” holes 

where marked. 

30


Installing the Rudder, Elevator, and Throttle 

Servos 

❑ 1. 

Locate the other three servos and install the grommets 

and eyelets in all three per the instructions included 

with the radio. Place the servos in the servo tray in the 

fuselage as shown, noting the position of the output 

horns. Using a pencil, mark the 12 servo mounting hole 

positions. 

Installing the Receiver and Battery 

❑ 1. 

CONTINUED 

Radio packing foam (available at your local hobby 

shop) should be used to install the receiver and battery. 

With a sharp hobby knife, cut a layer of foam the size of 

the compartment in front of the servo tray and place it 

in the bottom of the fuselage. Then, cut out another 

layer of foam and cut out the center section to match 

your battery pack. 

❑ 2. 

Cut out another layer of foam and place it on top of the 

battery. Cut out the next layer so that it clears the 

receiver. You then have a solid top layer over the top of 

the receiver. 

Important: 

Run the antenna through the fuselage and out the rear. 

❑ 2. 

Remove the servos and drill twelve 1/16” holes where 

marked. Install the servos, noting the position of the 

output horns. Screw in place with the 12 screws 

included with the servos. 

31


Installing the Switch 

CONTINUED 

❑ 1. 

The switch should be mounted on the left side of the 

fuselage, away from the exhaust gases. Place the 

switch plate against the side of the fuselage, as shown, 

and mark the position of the holes and square. 

❑ 2. 

Using a sharp hobby knife, cut out the marked area and 

drill holes to allow the switch to be mounted. Mount 

the switch using the hardware provided. 

32

Section 14: Installing The Linkages 

Parts Needed 

Tools Needed 

Aileron Horn (2) 

Balsa Dowel (2) 

Fuselage and Wing 

Heat Shrink Tubing 

1/16” Plain Rod, Long (2) 

1/16” Plain Rod, Short (2) 

Plastic Clevis (4) 

1/16” Threaded Rod (4) 

Drill with 1/16“ Drill Bit 

Heat Gun 

Hobby Knife or Scissors 

Needle Nose Pliers 

Thick CA Glue 

Z-Bender Pliers 

Installing the Aileron Linkage 

❑ 3. 

Select an X servo horn and trim the long arms off as 

shown. 

❑ 1. 

Locate the wing, two aileron horns, two threaded rods, 

and two clevis. Using the Z-Bender pliers, make a z- 

bend 4-1/8 inches from the threaded end of both rods 

and cut off the extra length of rod. 

❑ 4. 

Install the servo horn on the aileron servo, as shown. 

Install the z-bends in the second, outermost hole from 

the center of the servo horn, as shown. 

❑ 2. 

Screw a clevis onto the threaded portion of both rods. 

33


❑ 5. 

Screw both aileron horns onto the aileron torque rods 

until the threaded portion is flush with the aileron horn. 

Assembling the Pushrods 

❑ 1. 

CONTINUED 

Locate the two balsa dowels, the two remaining 

threaded rods, two short plain rods, and the black heat 

shrink tubing. Cut the heat shrink tubing into four 

equal pieces with a knife or scissors. 

❑ 6. 

Center the servo horn and adjust the aileron torque rod 

length by screwing in or out until the aileron is exactly 

in the neutral position when the servo is centered and 

the clevis is in the aileron horn. Adjust both sides. 

❑ 2. 

Using a pencil, make a mark two inches from each end 

of both balsa dowels. 

34


❑ 3. 

Drill four 1/16” holes through the balsa dowel at the 

marks, as shown. 

❑ 5. 

CONTINUED 

Locate one balsa dowel and insert the 90-degree end of 

one threaded rod into the previously drilled 1/16” hole. 

Cover the portion of the rod that touches the dowel with 

thick CA glue. 

❑ 4. 

Locate the two remaining threaded rods. Using a pair of 

needle nose pliers, bend a 90-degree angle 1/4" from 

the unthreaded end of the rod. Repeat this procedure for 

the other rod. Now locate the two short plain rods. 

Using needle nose pliers bend a 90-degree angle 1/4” 

from one end of the rods. Repeat this procedure for the 

other rod. 

❑ 6. 

Slide a piece of the heat shrink tubing over the end of 

the balsa dowel and shrink it into place using a heat gun. 

35


❑ 7. 

Locate the short plain rod and insert the 90-degree 

angle into the opposite end of the balsa dowel. Using 

thick CA glue, adhere and heat shrink it into place. 

Installing the Pushrods 

❑ 1. 

CONTINUED 

Insert one of the pushrods, threaded rod first, into the 

tail of the fuselage so that the threaded rod exits the 

rudder pushrod exit hole. 

❑ 8. 

Repeat Steps 5-7 to complete the other pushrod. 

❑ 2. 

Screw on a clevis for 20 full turns. Fasten the clevis in 

the third hold from the inside of the rudder control 

horn. 

36


❑ 3. 

Center the rudder and the rudder servo so that the servo 

arm is perpendicular to the fuselage. Mark the plain 

rod where it crosses the holes in the servo horn. Using 

Z-Bender pliers, make a z-bend at the marked location 

and cut off the excess plain rod. 

❑ 5. 

CONTINUED 

Use the same procedure to install the elevator pushrod, 

noting that the elevator pushrod exits the rear opening 

of the fuselage. 

❑ 4. 

Insert the z-bend in the second hole out on the servo 

horn. Center the servo so that the horn is exactly 

perpendicular to the fuselage and adjust the clevis on 

the rudder horn by screwing it in or out until the rudder 

is exactly neutral when the servo is centered. 

❑ 6. 

The two remaining long plain rods are for the throttle 

and nose wheel linkage. Using a sharp knife, cut out 

the opening just behind the nose wheel where the nose 

wheel pushrod exits. 

37


CONTINUED 

❑ 7. 

Using the same technique as above with the rudder, 

make a z-bend at both ends of the plain rod with one 

end attached to the steering arm and the other attached 

to the opposite side of the rudder servo horn. With the 

servo horn centered, adjust the nose wheel so it’s 

straight. Tighten the Phillips screw in the steering arm. 

❑ 8. 

A 1/16” hole is pre-drilled through the fire wall. This is 

for the throttle linkage. Insert the remaining plain rod 

through the fire wall and make a z-bend at both ends as 

before, being especially careful that the length is correct 

so that when the servo is centered, the throttle is half 

open. 

38

Section 15: Setting Up The Radio 

Parts Needed 

Control Throw Gauges 

Tools Needed 


❑ 1. 

Carefully hook up your servos to the receiver as shown 

in the instructions included with your radio. Also hook 

up your battery and switch. If you haven’t already done 

so, charge your batteries (both transmitter and receiver) 

per the radio instructions. 

❑ 4. 

Cut out the control throw gauges in the back of this 

manual. Then place the elevator gauge on the elevator. 

Give a full up elevator command and notice how far the 

elevator moves. It should move up 1/4” and down 

1/4”. If necessary, move the clevis in on the elevator to 

achieve more throw, or out to achieve less throw. 

❑ 2. 

Remove all four servo horns from the servos. Center 

the trims on the transmitter and move the throttle to the 

middle position. Turn on the transmitter and then the 

receiver. Now reinstall the servo horns with the radio 

on, making sure each is perpendicular to the fuselage 

or wing. Reinstall the servo horn screws and make any 

minor adjustments necessary to the length of the 

pushrods so that all the control surfaces are neutral 

when the trims on the transmitter are centered. 

ELEVATOR THROW GAUGE 

EASY FLY 40 

HINGE 

LINE 

AILERON THROW GAUGE 

EASY FLY 40 

HINGE 

LINE 

RUDDER THROW GAUGE 

EASY FLY 40 

HINGE 

LINE 

1/4” 

Neutral 

1/4” 

1/4” 

Neutral 

1/4” 

1/4” 

Neutral 

1/4” 

❑ 3. 

Check the throttle stroke. At full throttle the carburetor 

barrel should be fully open but not binding. At low 

throttle, middle trim position, the carburetor barrel 

should be open 1/16”. Adjust the linkage until this is 

achieved. If you need a longer stroke, move the push 

rod one hole out on the screw. If less stroke is needed, 

move the push rod in one hole. 

❑ 5. 

The control throw gauges are located on page 47. 

Do the same with the aileron gauge and the rudder 

gauge. Adjust the control throw to the indicated values: 

aileron 1/4” up, 1/4” down; rudder 1/4” right, 1/4” left. 

Important: 

It may be necessary to reverse the throttle reversing 

switch if the carburetor works in reverse (e.g., full 

throttle closes the carburetor). 

39

Section 16: Balancing The Model 

Parts Needed 

Rubber Bands 

Tools Needed 

Pencil 

Ruler 

❑ 1. 

Measure back 3-1/4” from the wing’s leading edge and 

put a mark on the bottom of the wing, (approximately 6” 

out from the center section).Repeat this procedure for 

the opposite wing half. 

❑ 2. 

Install the wing with rubber bands and place your two 

index fingers on the marks on the bottom of the wing. 

The model should balance level. If not, add weight to 

the tail or nose as necessary until the model balances 

perfectly level. Stick-on weights are available at your 

local hobby shop and work well for this purpose. 

40

Pre-Flight Check 

❑ 1. 

Check that all control functions move in the correct 

direction. If not, use the respective reversing switch to 

correct the direction. 

CARBURETOR 

ELEVATOR 

1/16” 

THROTTLE 

ELEVATOR 

RUDDER 

AILERON 

AILERON 

AILERON 

❑ 2. 

❑ 3. 

RUDDER 

Check that each clevis is securely snapped into 

position. 

Check that all servo horn screws are tight. 

❑ 4. 

Charge the transmitter and receiver battery per the 

instructions included with the radio system. 

❑ 5. 

Read and follow all the instructions included with the 

engine and follow the recommended break-in 

procedure. 

41

Pre-Flight At The Field 

Range Test Your Radio 

❑ 1. 

Before each flying session range check your radio. This 

is accomplished by turning on your transmitter with the 

antenna collapsed. Turn on the radio in your airplane. 

With your airplane on the ground, you should be able 

to walk 30 paces away from your airplane and still have 

complete control of all functions. If not, don't attempt to 

fly! Have your radio equipment checked out by the 

manufacturer. 

❑ 2. 

Double check that all controls (aileron, elevator, throttle, 

rudder) move in the correct direction. See page 40. 

❑ 3. 

Be sure that your batteries are fully charged per the 

instructions included with your radio. 

Adjusting the Engine 

❑ 1. 

Completely read the instructions included with your 

engine and follow the recommended break-in 

procedure. At the field adjust the engine to a slightly 

rich setting at full throttle and adjust the idle and low 

speed needle so that a consistent idle is achieved. 

Before you fly be sure that your engine idles, transitions 

and runs at all throttle settings reliably. Only when this 

is achieved should any plane be considered ready for 

flight. 

42

Flight Instructions 

For first time pilots the thought of flying their Easy Fly 40 

through loops, rolls and perfect three-point landings can be 

thrilling. Learning to fly, however, takes time, patience and most 

importantly, a good instructor. If you’re a first time pilot don't try 

to fly your Easy Fly 40 alone. Seek an experienced instructor. 

Your local hobby shop can put you in touch with an instructor in 

your area who can fly and trim your Easy Fly 40 and then give 

you your first chance on the “sticks" with very little risk of 

damage to the airplane. We cannot overemphasize the 

importance of having a qualified instructor to help you through 

your first flight. Don't try it alone! 

Experienced pilots will find the Easy Fly 40 to be a confidence 

inspiring airplane. Super stable and slow flight characteristics 

make pinpoint landings a breeze. At full throttle with a strong 

.40 engine, the Easy Fly is more than capable of most sport 

aerobatic maneuvers. The self righting stability of the Easy Fly 

40, helps to make it one of the easiest airplanes you'll ever fly. 

43

AMA Safety Code 

1994 Official AMA National Model Aircraft Safety Code 

Effective January 1, 1994 

Model flying must be in accordance with this Code in 

order for AMA liability protection to apply 

General 

1. I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned events, air shows, or 

model flying demonstrations until it has been proven to be airworthy 

by having been previously, successfully flight tested. 

2. I will not fly my model higher than approximately 400 feet within 3 

miles of an airport without notifying the airport operator. I will give 

right-of-way and avoid flying in the proximity of full-scale aircraft. 

Where necessary, an observer shall be utilized to supervise flying to 

avoid having models fly in the proximity of full-scale aircraft. 

3. Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the flying site I 

use, and I will not willfully and deliberately fly my models in a 

careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner. 

4. At all flying sites a straight or curved line(s) must be established in 

front of which all flying takes place with the other side for spectators. 

Only those persons essential to the flight operations are to be 

permitted on the flying side of the line; all others must be on the 

spectator side. Flying over the spectator side of the line is prohibited, 

unless beyond the control of the pilot(s). In any case, the maximum 

permissible takeoff weight of the models is 55 pounds. 

5. At air shows or model flying demonstrations a single straight line 

must be established, one side of which is for flying, with the other 

side for spectators. Only those persons accredited by the contest 

director or other appropriate official as necessary for flight operations 

or as having duties or functions relating to the conduct of the show or 

demonstration are to be permitted on the flying side of the line. The 

only exceptions which my be permitted to the single straight line 

requirements, under special circumstances involving consideration of 

side conditions and model size, weight, speed, and power, must be 

jointly approved by the AMA President and the Executive Director. 

6. Under all circumstances, if my model weighs over 20 pounds, I will 

fly it in accordance with paragraph 5 of this section of the AMA Safety 

Code. 

7. I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my name and 

address or AMA number, on or in the model. Note: This does not 

apply to models flown indoors. 

9. I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device that explodes, 

burns, or propels a projectile of any kind) including, but not limited 

to, rockets, explosive bombs dropped from models, smoke bombs, 

all explosive gases (such as hydrogen-filled balloons), ground 

mounted devices launching a projectile. The only exceptions 

permitted are rockets flown in accordance with the National Model 

Rocketry Safety Code or those permanently attached (as per JATO 

use); also those items authorized for Air Show Team use as defined 

by AST Advisory Committee (document available from AMA HQ). In 

any case, models using rocket motors as primary means of 

propulsion are limited to a maximum weight of 3.3 pounds and a G 

series motor. Note: A model aircraft is defined as an aircraft with or 

without engine, not able to carry a human being. 

10. I will not operate any turbo jet engine (axial or centrifugal flow) 

unless I have obtained a special waiver for such specific operations 

from the AMA President and Executive Director and I will abide by 

any restriction(s) imposed for such operation by them. (Note: This 

does not apply to ducted fan models using piston engines or electric 

motors.) 

11. I will not consume alcoholic beverages prior to, nor during, 

participation in any model operations. 

Radio Control 

1. I will have completed a successful radio equipment ground range 

check before the first flight of a new or repaired model. 

2. I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of spectators until I 

become a qualified flier, unless assisted by an experienced helper. 

3. I will perform my initial turn after takeoff away from the pit or 

spectator areas, and I will not thereafter fly over pit or spectator areas, 

unless beyond my control. 

4. I will operate my model using only radio control frequencies currently 

allowed by the Federal Communications Commission. (Only properly 

licensed Amateurs are authorized to operate equipment on Amateur 

Band frequencies.) Further, any transmitters that I use at a sanctioned 

event must have a certified R/CMA-AMA gold sticker affixed 

indicating that it was manufactured or modified for operation at 20 

kHz frequency separation (except 27 MHz and 53 MHz). 

5. I will not knowingly operate an R/C system within 3 miles of a preexisting 

model club flying site without a frequency sharing agreement 

with that club. 

8. I will not operate models with metal-bladed propellers or with 

gaseous boosts, in which gases other than air enter their internal 

combustion engine(s); nor will I operate models with extremely 

hazardous fuels such as those containing tetranitromethane or 

hydrazine. 

44

Glossary 

Adverse Yaw. Some airplanes, especially high-wing airplanes 

with flat-bottom airfoils, have a tendency to yaw in the opposite 

direction of the bank. This is most common when flying at low 

speeds with high angles. Adjusting the ailerons can help reduce 

the yaw. 

Ailerons. Each side of this airplane has a hinged control 

surface, called an aileron, located on the trailing edge of the 

wing. Move the left aileron up and the right aileron down, and 

the airplane will turn or roll to the right. Perform the opposite 

actions, and the airplane will roll to the left. This is how you 

control the airplane's direction in flight. 

Carburetor. By adjusting the needle valve in the carburetor, 

you control the engine’s lean/rich fuel mixture and determine the 

airplane's speed. 

Charger. This is the device used to charge/recharge batteries. 

If NiCad batteries are provided with the radio, a charger is 

usually provided as well. 

Clevis. The clevis connects the wire end of the pushrod to the 

control horn of the control surface. A small clip, the clevis has 

fine threads so that you can adjust the length of the pushrod. 

Clunk. Located in the fuel tank, a clunk is weighted and 

ensures that the intake line has a steady supply of fuel. 

Computer Radio. By using the advanced programming 

functions of the transmitter, you can adjust the airplane without 

changing any mechanical structures. 

Control Horn. This arm connects the control surface to the 

clevis and pushrod. 

Dead Stick. When the airplane is in flight gliding, without the 

engine running, it is called “dead stick.” 

Dihedral. The degree of angle (V-shaped bend) at which the 

wings intersect the plane is called dihedral. More dihedral gives 

an airplane more aerodynamic stability. Some sailplanes and 

trainer planes with large dihedral dispense with ailerons and use 

only the rudder to control the roll and yaw. 

Electric Starter. This is the small motor commonly used to 

start the airplane's engine. 

Elevator. The hinged control surface functions as an elevator, 

which you adjust to control the airplane's pitch axis. Pulling the 

transmitter's control stick toward the bottom of the transmitter 

adjusts the elevator upward, and the airplane begins to climb. 

Push the control stick forward, and the airplane begins to dive. 

Expanded Scale Voltmeter (ESV). This device is used to 

check the voltage of the battery pack. 

Flight Box. The box in which you store and transport your 

flying equipment is called a flight box. 

Flight Pack or Airborne Pack. These interchangeable terms 

describe the radio equipment that is installed on the airplane. 

Foam Rubber. Material that is used to dampen the airplane's 

vibrations and protect the airplane's battery and receiver. 

Fuel Overflow Line (Vent). This line pressures the fuel tank 

and provides an even fuel flow to the engine. It also functions 

as an overflow line when the fuel tank is full. 

Fuel Pickup Line. This line connects the fuel tank to the 

carburetor, usually with a clunk on the tank end to keep the fuel 

flowing while the aircraft is in flight. 

Fuselage. The main body of an airplane. 

Glow Plug Clip/Battery. A 1.2-volt battery with a clip which 

is connected to your engine’s glow plug used to start the engine. 

You remove it once the engine is running smoothly. 

High Wing. This term describes an airplane that has its wings 

mounted on the top of the fuselage. 

Hinge. The hinges are the moving blades on the control 

surface that allow you to control the airplane's movement. All 

hinges must be glued properly and securely to prevent the 

airplane from crashing. 

Horizontal Stabilizer. The horizontal surface of the tail gives 

the airplane stability while in flight. 

Main Landing Gear. The wheel and gear assembly the 

airplane uses to land. It is attached to the bottom of the 

fuselage. 

Muffler. This device muffles engine noise and increases the 

back pressure from the engine’s exhaust stack, which can 

improve the airplane's performance at low speeds. Mufflers are 

usually required by R/C Clubs. 

Needle Valve. This mechanism within the carburetor adjusts 

the fuel mixture and throttle. Refer to your engine’s 

manufacturer instructions for directions on how to adjust the 

needle valve. 

45

Glossary 

NiCad. This abbreviation stands for Nickel Cadmium, the 

chemical compound used in rechargeable batteries. 

Nitro. Short for nitromethane, a fuel additive that improves an 

airplane's high-speed performance. Check your engine’s 

instructions to determine the ideal nitro content for your engine. 

Nose Gear. The part of the landing gear that is attached to the 

nose of the fuselage. The nose gear is usually connected to the 

rudder servo to help you steer the airplane on the ground. 

Pitch Axis. The horizontal plane on which the airplane's nose 

is raised or lowered. By adjusting the elevator, you can raise the 

airplane's nose above the pitch axis (climb) or lower it below the 

pitch axis (dive). 

Pushrod. The rigid mechanism that transfers movement from 

the servo to the control surface. 

Receiver (RX). The receiver unit in the airplane receives your 

signals from the ground transmitter and passes the instructions 

along to the airplane's servos. 

Roll Axis. The horizontal plane on which the airplane's wings 

are raised or lowered. By adjusting the ailerons, you can drop a 

wing tip below the roll axis and cause the airplane to bank or 

roll. 

Rudder. The hinged control surface on the vertical stabilizer 

that controls the airplane's yaw. Moving the rudder to the left 

causes the airplane to yaw left; moving the rudder to the right 

causes it to yaw right. 

Servo. The servo transforms your ground commands into 

physical adjustments of the airplane while it’s in the air. 

Servo Output Arm. A removable arm or wheel that connects 

the servo to the pushrod. 

Single Stick. A special kind of transmitter that has only one 

stick, with special movements to control the airplane's flight. 

Not common. 

Spinner. Term describing the nose cone that covers the 

propeller hub. 

CONTINUED 

Switch Harness. This switch is commonly located on the 

fuselage and governs the on/off mechanism for the flight pace. 

Tachometer. A device the measures the engine’s RPM 

(rotations per minute) by counting light impulses that pass 

through the spinning propeller. 

Torque Rods. Inserted into ailerons, these rigid wire rods run 

along the wings’ trailing edge, then bend downward and connect 

to the pushrods. 

Trainer Airplane. Designed to fly with high stability at low 

speeds, a trainer model airplane allows new users some extra 

reaction time as they learn to control the airplane's movements. 

Transmitter (Tx). The device used on the ground to transmit 

instructions to the airplane. Three transmitter modes are used 

in model airplanes. The most common is Mode II, where the left 

stick controls the throttle and rudder and the right stick controls 

the elevator and aileron. 

Vertical Stabilizer. The vertical surface of the tail gives the 

airplane stability while in flight. 

Wheel Collar. The round retaining piece that anchors wheels 

in place on the axle. 

Wing. Because wings provide the primary lift force on an 

airplane, adjustments to the wings affect the airplane's 

movements while in flight. 

Yaw Axis. The vertical plane through which the airplane's 

nose passes as it yaws to the left or to the right. The rudder 

controls the yaw axis. 

Z-Bend. The wire ends of pushrods have Z-shaped bends, 

which attach to the servo. 

Z-Bend Pliers. Used for crimping wire ends into Z bends. 

46

ELEVATOR THROW GAUGE 

EASY FLY 40 

HINGE 

LINE 

1/4” 

1/4” 

Neutral 

AILERON THROW GAUGE 

EASY FLY 40 

HINGE 

LINE 

1/4” 

1/4” 

Neutral 

RUDDER THROW GAUGE 

EASY FLY 40 

HINGE 

LINE 

1/4” 

1/4” 

Neutral

© Copyright 1994, Horizon Hobby Distributors, Inc.

instruction manual - Hangar 9

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