Shaping with a Router - MetosExpo - Free

Q & A (continued)
suggestions fo r going about dlis project: First, I would not use
hardware-store dowels because mey are usually maple, wbich is
sometimes used for bending, but is only a moderately good candidate.
Better woods to use include white oak, red oak, bickOlY or
ash. Second, commercially made dowels are produced wim little
regard to alignment of dle wood's fibers. TIle result is dlat most
dowels will bave a fair amount of grain runout. It would be best, if
possible, to make your own dowels, starting wim rough blanks
split widl a froe from su-aight-grai.n stock. If you saw me blanks out,
use stock widl velY little grain runout. You can make me dowels by
turning dlem between centers on a ladle or wim a router fixture as
described in Ken Well's article in fWW" #90. If conunercially made
dowels are your only choice, look througb dle available selection
carefully, pick dle velY best and be ready fo r many bending failures.
As widl conU1lercial wood bending, you will need a steamer and
end su-aps to prevent fa ilure on me exterior of dle bends (see my
article on bending green wood in fWW" #64). You may find dlat
you'll bave to make me center bent section of each rod much dunner
man your diagram illusu-ates -perhaps % in. duck. If your
bends fail, consider lanunating me rods from several dUIUler sections.
Once you do succeed, dle bends can be held in place by
tying me ends wim wire or string for an hour after steaming.
[Drew Langsner is an audlor, farmer and woodworker living in
Marshall, N.C.]
Gluing rosewood veneer
I am having difficulty applying rosewood veneer to a particleboard
substrate. I first wipe the rosewood with lacquer thinner
and then coat both surfaces with three layers of Constantine's
veneer glue. After several days, I had numerous bubbles develop
where the rosewood veneer separated from the substrate. I have
been told to treat the rosewood with two coats of veneer glue
diluted with thinner so that the solution will soak into the
pores and prevent leeching. Another suggestion I've heard is to
size the rosewood with a 50150 mixture of wood glue and water.
Wouldn't this cause severe buckling? Also, since the wood
glue is water based and the veneer glue is thinner based, would
the bond hold?
-Brian Hayward, Huntington, N.Y.
George Mustoe replies: Areas of delamination (bubbles) are a
radler conU1lon problem when contact adhesives are used for veneering.
These glues remain somewbat flexible after curing, and
have relatively low strengm. In particular, contact adhesives are
velY vulnerable to "creep." Under continual sU-ess, dle rubbelY
glue layer su-etches and eventually gives way. Wim veneers, dle
most conUTIon fo rm of stress is shrinkage or swelling due to hulTudity
changes, but delamination problems can also occur when
veneer has been bent to follow a curved surface. These problems
tend to be greatest widl dUck veneers, which shrink and well
more and contain greater stored sU-ess if dley are applied to a
curved surface. In addition, oily woods like rosewood and teak are
more susceptible to glue bond failure man less resinous species.
The advice you received of using a solvent to remove excess
oil from dle rosewood is a good one, but as you've discovered, it
may not do dle u-ick. Similarly, treating me wood wim diluted
adhesive or some other sealer can be helpful, but don't expect
any miracles. Instead, consider using a different type of adhesive.
You need a glue mat contains no water, since moisture is likely
to cause me veneer to buckle during curing. You also want an
adhesive mat sets to form a rigid, creep-free bond. The best dlOice
would be one of me common woodworking epoxies mat sell for
about 20 to 30 a quart. Some formulations are sold expressly for
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