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The best of Chelsea by the people who know - Cadogan

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15 | STREETS & SIGHTS |<br />

<strong>Cadogan</strong> bought <strong>the</strong> site from <strong>the</strong><br />

Ministry <strong>of</strong> Defence in 1999 and began a<br />

£120 million development which included<br />

100,000 sq ft <strong>of</strong> shops, cafés, <strong>of</strong>fices<br />

and flats.<br />

Architects Paul David & Partners<br />

worked with English Heritage to make<br />

sure <strong>the</strong> new buildings complemented<br />

<strong>the</strong> historic ones around <strong>the</strong>m, and work<br />

began in April 2000. <strong>The</strong> area was landscaped<br />

<strong>by</strong> Elizabeth Banks Associates<br />

and was designed to create a haven<br />

from <strong>the</strong> bustle <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> King’s Road, with<br />

pale stone, fountains and shrubs. It was<br />

<strong>the</strong> first new public square in central<br />

London for more than a century.<br />

<strong>The</strong> development was opened <strong>by</strong> HRH<br />

Prince Andrew, <strong>the</strong> Duke <strong>of</strong> York, on<br />

March 19, 2003. A sculpture <strong>of</strong> children<br />

playing commemorates <strong>the</strong> school that<br />

stood on <strong>the</strong> site, and a statue <strong>of</strong> Sir<br />

Hans Sloane links it to both <strong>Chelsea</strong> and<br />

<strong>Cadogan</strong>’s past.<br />

Today, Duke <strong>of</strong> York Square features<br />

<strong>the</strong> Saatchi Gallery and a variety <strong>of</strong> fashion,<br />

beauty and food shops, as well as<br />

restaurants and cafés. <strong>The</strong>re are regular<br />

events, including <strong>the</strong> Saturday Farmers'<br />

Market, <strong>the</strong> annual BADA Antiques &<br />

Fine Art Fair and concerts. For more,<br />

visit www.duke<strong>of</strong>yorksquare.com.<br />

Elm Park Gardens<br />

• Labour politician Sir Stafford Cripps<br />

(1889-1952) was born at 32 Elm Park<br />

Gardens. He served in several posts in<br />

<strong>the</strong> wartime coalition in <strong>the</strong> Second<br />

World War and was Chancellor <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

Exchequer from 1947 to 1950.<br />

• Entertainer and writer Joyce Grenfell<br />

OBE (1910-1979) lived in Flat 8 at 34<br />

Elm Park Gardens between 1957 and<br />

1979. She is <strong>best</strong> <strong>know</strong>n for her onewoman<br />

shows and monologues, including<br />

her role as a nursery teacher with <strong>the</strong><br />

catchphrase: “George… don’t do that.”<br />

She had also lived in <strong>the</strong> King’s Road<br />

and St Leonard’s Terrace.<br />

Duke<br />

<strong>of</strong> York<br />

Square<br />

opening<br />

King’s Road<br />

<strong>The</strong> King’s Road started life as just that –<br />

<strong>the</strong> King’s private road. It was built <strong>by</strong><br />

Charles II in <strong>the</strong> 17th century as a route<br />

from Whitehall to Hampton Court.<br />

Because not everyone could use <strong>the</strong><br />

thoroughfare, <strong>Chelsea</strong> was based more<br />

around <strong>the</strong> riverside.<br />

However, locals were allowed to use<br />

<strong>the</strong> road, and when George I looked set<br />

to take away this right, Sir Hans Sloane<br />

and <strong>the</strong> local rector organised a petition<br />

and saved <strong>the</strong> custom. It remained<br />

closed to <strong>the</strong> general public – only those<br />

with a special token could pass – until<br />

1830, when it was opened to everyone,<br />

helping to invigorate <strong>the</strong> area.<br />

<strong>The</strong> King’s Road’s reputation as a<br />

fashion hub and key scene in <strong>the</strong><br />

Swinging Sixties really began with <strong>the</strong><br />

opening <strong>of</strong> Mary Quant’s shop Bazaar<br />

in 1955. She railed against traditional<br />

fashion and launched cutting-edge<br />

designs including mini-skirts and plastic<br />

raincoats. Iconic boutiques such as<br />

Granny Takes a Trip, Hung on You and<br />

<strong>the</strong> <strong>Chelsea</strong> Drugstore complex also<br />

sprung up in <strong>the</strong> King’s Road.<br />

<strong>The</strong> road was <strong>the</strong> epicentre <strong>of</strong> punk<br />

culture in <strong>the</strong> 1970s, as a new era swept<br />

away <strong>the</strong> idealism <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> 1960s.<br />

Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm<br />

McLaren opened <strong>the</strong>ir shop, Let It Rock,<br />

at 430 King’s Road in 1971. It reopened<br />

as SEX in 1974 and changed its focus to<br />

S&M-inspired anti-fashion that challenged<br />

<strong>the</strong> establishment.<br />

McLaren had been helping a band<br />

called <strong>the</strong> Strand – soon to be <strong>know</strong>n as<br />

<strong>the</strong> Sex Pistols – and spotted John<br />

Lydon, <strong>who</strong> auditioned at SEX and<br />

became <strong>the</strong> band’s lead singer, Johnny<br />

Rotten. McLaren managed <strong>the</strong> band and<br />

<strong>The</strong> Pheasantry on<br />

<strong>the</strong> King’s Road<br />

helped <strong>the</strong>m gain notoriety.<br />

In <strong>the</strong> 1980s, <strong>the</strong> King’s Road became<br />

<strong>know</strong>n for ‘Sloane Rangers’, after <strong>the</strong><br />

publication <strong>of</strong> Ann Barr and Peter York’s<br />

Official Sloane Ranger Handbook in<br />

1982. ‘Sloanes’ was a term for <strong>the</strong> caricature<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> young, upper or upper-middle<br />

class men and women <strong>of</strong>ten seen on<br />

<strong>the</strong> road.<br />

Today <strong>the</strong> King’s Road is <strong>know</strong>n for its<br />

shopping, nightlife and history (for more<br />

on <strong>the</strong> history <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> King’s Road, see<br />

History).<br />

• Thomas Arne (1710-1778), <strong>the</strong> composer<br />

<strong>of</strong> Rule, Britannia!, lived at 215<br />

King’s Road. He also wrote music for<br />

concerts at Ranelagh Gardens. His son,<br />

Michael, <strong>who</strong> was also a composer, had<br />

a passion for alchemy and built a laboratory<br />

in <strong>Chelsea</strong>, where eventually his<br />

obsession destroyed his finances.<br />

• Actress Ellen Terry (1847-1928), one<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> great beauties <strong>of</strong> her time, also<br />

lived at 215 King’s Road. She was one<br />

<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> era’s leading actresses and<br />

appeared at <strong>Chelsea</strong>’s Royal Court<br />

<strong>The</strong>atre.<br />

Her first marriage was to <strong>the</strong> artist<br />

George Frederic Watts, <strong>who</strong> was much<br />

older, and she features in several <strong>of</strong> his<br />

paintings. Although <strong>the</strong>y separated after<br />

less than a year, she wasn’t divorced<br />

from him until much later – making her<br />

relationship with architect Edward<br />

William Godwin, with <strong>who</strong>m she had<br />

children, something <strong>of</strong> a scandal.<br />

• John McKean Brydon's <strong>Chelsea</strong> Old<br />

Town Hall was finished in 1887. <strong>The</strong><br />

front <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> building, seen from <strong>the</strong> King’s<br />

Road, was added 30 years later <strong>by</strong><br />

Leonard Stokes. <strong>The</strong> building hosts<br />

events and has beautiful rooms available<br />

for hire, including for civil marriage ceremonies<br />

and receptions. It also houses<br />

<strong>the</strong> <strong>Chelsea</strong> Library.<br />

• Thomas Crapper had a bathroom<br />

fittings showroom at 120 King’s Road.<br />

Contrary to myth, he didn’t invent <strong>the</strong><br />

flush toilet, but he did help to popularise<br />

it and developed several important inventions,<br />

such as <strong>the</strong> floating ballcock.<br />

• <strong>The</strong> Six Bells pub on <strong>the</strong> King's Road<br />

was a favourite <strong>of</strong> artists including<br />

Whistler. It is now Henry J Bean’s (see<br />

Pubs, bars and nightlife).<br />

• <strong>The</strong> Glaciarium, <strong>the</strong> first mechanically<br />

frozen ice rink, opened just <strong>of</strong>f <strong>the</strong> King’s<br />

Road in 1876 and moved to a permanent<br />

venue on <strong>the</strong> street <strong>the</strong> next year.<br />

• Australian-born pianist, composer and<br />

arranger Percy Grainger (1882-1961)<br />

lived at 31 King’s Road. He is <strong>best</strong><br />

<strong>know</strong>n for his piano arrangement <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

folk tune Country Gardens, which he is

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