The best of Chelsea by the people who know - Cadogan

22 | INSIDER | Buildings & architecture
The Insider’s Guide
to buildings and
architecture
By Hugh Seaborn, chief
executive of Cadogan, which
represents extensive Cadogan
family land holdings
in Chelsea. These date back to
1712, when Sir Hans Sloane
purchased the Manor of
Chelsea and Charles, 2nd Baron
Cadogan, subsequently married
his daughter Elizabeth Sloane
in 1717
Duke of
York Square
Peter Jones, Sloane Square
I would start at the top of Peter Jones,
enjoying a coffee while drinking in the
view from its picture windows. On the
way in, wonder at the statement made
by the building, built in the 1930s on
an impressive scale. Look at its size
compared to everything around it.
The confidence it conveys is reflected
in the pioneering use of curtain walling.
This is where the John Lewis workers’
cooperative began.
Cadogan Hall, 5 Sloane Terrace
A two-minute walk away in Sloane
Terrace is the hidden gem of Cadogan
Hall. This concert hall, open to the public,
was converted with great sensitivity from
a Church of Christ, Scientist. It was
originally built by Robert Chisholm in
two sections, and was finished in 1907.
Above all, look at the windows,
which were designed by Baron von
Rosenkrantz with beautiful, rich colours.
Holy Trinity Church,
Sloane Street
On the way back, walking south on
Cadogan Hall
Sloane Street, you will pass the
Holy Trinity Church designed by John
Sedding, where you can marvel at the
peace just off this busy shopping street,
and again drink in the stained glass
windows with the light behind them.
Duke of York Square,
King’s Road
From here it is less than five minutes to
the Duke of York Square, opposite Peter
Jones. There is much to see, but I would
start with the Saatchi Gallery, which was
originally a home for soldiers’ children
built in the first years of the 19th century
by John Sanders. The connection with
children continues today as you will
frequently see children from Hill House
School on the playing fields in front of
the gallery. The buildings were so well
converted by Paul Davis and Partners
that it feels as though it was designed
for its present use.
Royal Hospital Chelsea,
Royal Hospital Road
No visit to Chelsea for someone
interested in buildings is complete until
you have enjoyed the Royal Hospital,
designed by Christopher Wren in the
late 17th century. It is extraordinary
that these wonderful buildings are still
used for the same purpose they were
designed for, more than 300 years ago.
The Chelsea Pensioners add to the
dignity and elegance in their smart,
scarlet uniforms.
Cadogan Square
Finally, if you have the energy left,
I would suggest taking a walk around
Cadogan Square and look at the variety
of gables. Imagine the confidence of the
Victorians building these mansions for
their successful merchants in place of
the small Georgian houses that had
been there for 100 years previously.
Number 52 on the west side of the
square may particularly catch your eye.
It was designed in 1885 by Sir Ernest
George and is rich in the styles of the
Flemish and German Renaissance. It is
a private house, so you cannot go in, but
the external details alone justify the visit.