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The best of Chelsea by the people who know - Cadogan

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20 | STREETS & SIGHTS |<br />

during <strong>the</strong> Second World War. Parts <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> hospital were also damaged <strong>by</strong><br />

bombs in 1918, rebuilt in 1923 and<br />

destroyed again <strong>by</strong> a V2 rocket in 1945.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Margaret Thatcher Infirmary with its<br />

125 en suite bedrooms, built <strong>by</strong> Quinlan<br />

Terry, was opened in 2009 to provide<br />

state-<strong>of</strong>-<strong>the</strong>-art care.<br />

<strong>The</strong> creation <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Chelsea</strong><br />

Embankment resulted in <strong>the</strong> loss <strong>of</strong><br />

Wren’s original formal gardens, and <strong>the</strong><br />

Royal Hospital has lost and gained land<br />

over <strong>the</strong> years. Today, <strong>the</strong> grounds cover<br />

66 acres.<br />

<strong>The</strong> <strong>Chelsea</strong> Pensioners’ Appeal, a<br />

registered charity, is campaigning to raise<br />

£30 million to update <strong>the</strong> living accommodation<br />

in <strong>the</strong> Long Wards, which are<br />

already being refurbished, hoping to<br />

change wooden cubicle berths and<br />

shared bathrooms into modern en-suite<br />

study bedrooms. (For more information<br />

about visiting <strong>the</strong> Royal Hospital<br />

<strong>Chelsea</strong>, see Museums and Green<br />

Spaces.)<br />

• For <strong>the</strong> National Army Museum, see<br />

Museums.<br />

• For <strong>the</strong> <strong>Chelsea</strong> Physic Garden, see<br />

Green Spaces.<br />

• For Restaurant Gordon Ramsay and<br />

Foxtrot Oscar, see Restaurants.<br />

Sloane Square<br />

Sloane Square was part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> 1771<br />

Hans Town development designed <strong>by</strong><br />

Henry Holland and his son, also called<br />

Henry, and named after Sir Hans Sloane<br />

(see Hans Town panel on page 23). In<br />

those days, it had a small green in <strong>the</strong><br />

centre and Blandel Bridge crossed <strong>the</strong><br />

River Westbourne in <strong>the</strong> eastern corner.<br />

<strong>The</strong> bridge was <strong>know</strong>n as '<strong>the</strong> bloody<br />

bridge’ because it was a notorious spot<br />

for highwaymen, muggings and murders.<br />

Many <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> premises in this area were<br />

utilitarian in nature at first.<br />

By <strong>the</strong> 19th century, roads had sprung<br />

up to connect <strong>the</strong> surrounding streets.<br />

Sloane Square station opened in 1868<br />

(see Sloane Square Station) and Peter<br />

Jones was created when draper Peter<br />

Rees Jones opened shops at <strong>the</strong> top<br />

end <strong>of</strong> King's Road, redeveloping <strong>the</strong>m<br />

as a single building in <strong>the</strong> 1880s (see<br />

Peter Jones in Shopping). <strong>The</strong> building<br />

that houses <strong>the</strong> Royal Court <strong>The</strong>atre was<br />

built in 1888 (see Royal Court <strong>The</strong>atre<br />

in <strong>The</strong>atre).<br />

<strong>The</strong> Venus Fountain at <strong>the</strong> centre <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> square is Grade II-listed and was<br />

sculpted <strong>by</strong> Gilbert Ledward. It was<br />

installed in 1953 and shows a kneeling<br />

Venus pouring water from a conch shell,<br />

while <strong>the</strong> basin depicts Charles II and his<br />

mistress, actress Nell Gwyn.<br />

Several proposals to redevelop <strong>the</strong><br />

square have been put forward in recent<br />

years. A public consultation was held in<br />

2007 about changes to <strong>the</strong> road layout,<br />

including a plan to create a crossroads.<br />

However, <strong>the</strong> plans were not popular and<br />

a renovation <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> square was carried<br />

out instead.<br />

Sloane Square Station<br />

Sloane Square Station serves <strong>the</strong> District<br />

and Circle Underground lines and is on<br />

<strong>the</strong> south-eastern corner <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Square,<br />

next to <strong>the</strong> Royal Court <strong>The</strong>atre. <strong>The</strong> station<br />

was opened in 1868 as part <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

District line.<br />

<strong>The</strong> River Westbourne, one <strong>of</strong><br />

London’s ‘lost rivers’, flows above <strong>the</strong><br />

tracks in a pipe on its way from its<br />

source at Hampstead Heath to <strong>the</strong><br />

Thames at <strong>Chelsea</strong> Hospital.<br />

<strong>The</strong> station was rebuilt in <strong>the</strong> late 1930s<br />

but it was heavily bombed in <strong>the</strong> Second<br />

World War. In November 1940, bombs<br />

fell on <strong>the</strong> station causing <strong>the</strong> ro<strong>of</strong> to collapse<br />

while a train was at <strong>the</strong> platform,<br />

killing or seriously injuring 79 <strong>people</strong>.<br />

Ano<strong>the</strong>r tragedy at <strong>the</strong> station was <strong>the</strong><br />

death <strong>of</strong> Peter Llewelyn Davies, <strong>the</strong><br />

inspiration for JM Barrie’s Peter Pan, <strong>who</strong><br />

committed suicide on <strong>the</strong> tracks.<br />

Holy Trinity<br />

Sloane Square<br />

Despite being <strong>know</strong>n as Holy Trinity Sloane<br />

Square, this church is actually on Sloane Street.<br />

One <strong>of</strong> London’s most beautiful buildings, it<br />

was built in 1888 <strong>by</strong> John Dando Sedding, an<br />

architect inspired <strong>by</strong> <strong>the</strong> Arts and Crafts movement,<br />

which promoted skilled, hand-crafted<br />

work as a reaction to industrialisation.<br />

<strong>The</strong> church was described <strong>by</strong> poet John<br />

Betjeman as “<strong>the</strong> ca<strong>the</strong>dral <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Arts and<br />

Crafts movement”, featuring works <strong>by</strong> William<br />

Morris, Edward Burne-Jones and Christopher<br />

Whall, among o<strong>the</strong>rs.<br />

<strong>The</strong> ro<strong>of</strong> was destroyed <strong>by</strong> incendiary bombs<br />

during <strong>the</strong> Blitz, but <strong>the</strong> church was restored <strong>by</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> 1960s. <strong>The</strong> beautiful stained-glass windows,<br />

made <strong>by</strong> William Morris & Co, Sir William<br />

Blake Richmond and Christopher Whall, have<br />

been returned to <strong>the</strong>ir former glory and are<br />

once again a showcase for <strong>the</strong> Arts and<br />

Crafts style.<br />

Music is very important at Holy Trinity –<br />

Sedding himself was an organist, so <strong>the</strong> church<br />

was designed with a huge organ chamber more<br />

than 40ft high. <strong>The</strong> Sunday morning services<br />

include music and <strong>the</strong>re are <strong>of</strong>ten concerts held<br />

at <strong>the</strong> church.<br />

<strong>The</strong> restoration <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> organ began in July<br />

2011, funded <strong>by</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Cadogan</strong> family and<br />

<strong>Cadogan</strong> Estates Ltd. <strong>The</strong> original was built <strong>by</strong><br />

James John Walker and completed in 1891. It<br />

has been modified and repaired many times<br />

since <strong>the</strong>n, including an unfortunate incident in<br />

1967 when a member <strong>of</strong> staff fell into <strong>the</strong> second<br />

largest pipe while replacing glue on <strong>the</strong><br />

joints (he survived). <strong>The</strong> rebuilt organ, which will<br />

have a completely new structure and mechanism<br />

while retaining most <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> historic<br />

pipework, is expected to be completed in late<br />

summer 2012. Made <strong>by</strong> Harrison & Harrison<br />

organ builders, it will have 4,200 pipes, ranging<br />

from three-quarters <strong>of</strong> an inch to 32 feet.<br />

For more information, telephone 020 7730<br />

7270 or visit www.holytrinitysloanesquare.co.uk.

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