Gem and Ornamental

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FIgare 2.2Piece of Whitby jet showing conchoidd hcture.2.1). When dug out of the ground it is covered in a greyish skincalled 'spa?.Jet displorys a conchoidd fracture when broken (Fii. 2.2). The b dshows the mated's deep, velveq black colour and high lusm.Polishing dso brings out the colour and lustre (Figs 2.1 and 2.14).Although saciently hard to cut, turn and polish to a high lusm,jet is relatively soft. This means that, though irs lmme does notdiminish with age, it coln become matched. The colour remolinsunchanged and does not fade.When worked, jet produces a brown dust, and when rubbed mssa rough gurface will leave a mid-brown stre.& of colour.Jet is a poor conductor of heat. It feels warm to the touch.Iike amber, jet can become saciently elemidly charged whenrubbed to be able to pick up items such as d feathers.Also like amber, jet is very light.Chemically, jet is about 75 per cent carbon with some hydrogen,oxygen and sulphur. There can also be maces of many otherminerals.TREAT-AND USESJet is used mostly for jewellery and small, decorative items. It is bestknown for its use as mourning jewellerg in the nineteenth century.
42 GEMS AND ORNAMENTAL MATBElIALS OF ORGANIC ORIGINFigum 2.3 Jet and jet simulant9. Top row: vulcanite, jet; bottom row:vulcauih bog oak, jet.Jet can be cut, carved, turned on a lathe, d polished to an almostvimm lusm (Hi. 2.3).Jet cannot be softened or moulded.Jet is neither dyed nor bleached.To make up larger items, pieces of jet are glued together. Scremare never used. The dtional glue used by the jet workers in thenineteenth century was an animal dekihe called 'wkamatutt'(Fig, 2.11). Today qepwry glue h taken its place.Due to its wlour, jet is ideal for use in combination with otherrnaterid~ such as ivory, for mple as cameo doublets, with a jetback topped by an ivory carving, or as triplets of jet, ivoq and jet.It has dso been used to kame painted miniarures or shell cameos.Jet has been used in mosaics, for example the Florenrine mosaicscalled 'piem dura', which combined coloured stones.In the past jet jdery was seldom mounted with a m d surround.Today it is mostly mounted in silver.Late nineteenth century necklaces were sometimes made of beadsstrung on thread in he traditional way, but also very typical werethose made of carved jet links (Fix. 2-14),
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Gem and OrnamentalMaterials of Orga
Page 6 and 7: Contents
Page 8: Introduction
Page 13 and 14: Photo credits
Page 18 and 19: AMBER AND COPAL 3Figure 1.1-Insect
Page 20 and 21: AMBER AND COPAL 5F M1.5 Poorly pres
Page 22: AMBHR AND COPAL 7Figure 1.7 Piece o
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Page 44: AMBER AND COPAL 29Figure 1.34 Piece
Page 50 and 51: AMBER AND COPAL 35- - -Figure 1,37
Page 52: Figure 1.39 Amber and ivmy casket,
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Page 60 and 61: F I 2.6 Jet simuht showing uneven c
Page 62: Figure 2.9Vulcanite chain linlc whi
Page 66 and 67: Figure 2,12tesLJet simulant bead, a
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Page 77: The fedes dso any tu& though theirs
Page 80: mything hm fish and birds to the la
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Page 88: Figure 3.9'Ivorine' plah he&, imimt
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Page 100: 4 Bone
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5 Antler
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Figure 5*3 Tupilakof reindeer antle
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6 Rhino horn
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104 GaMs AND ORNAMHNTAL MATERMIS OF
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7 Horn
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HORN 111
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Figme 7.4Various modem horn items.F
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~igare 7.8 Hmn s m m m under mad-po
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aq ppo g 'my1103 3emdmw Po02 ta apt
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Figure 7.13 Horn p d t by Mme Bone.
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126 GEM AND ORNAMENTAL MATERMU OF O
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Greens me larger than hawksbills an
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Figure 8.8w=.Detail of pmsed card c
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Figure 8.11 Tomkhell dressing table
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Figure 8.13colour .Plastic imimtiug
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9 Pearl
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Figure 9.2 Broken blister pearl in
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America. The pearls were plentiful,
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150 GHMs AND 0-AL MA- OF ORGANIC OR
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152 GEMS AND OKNAMENTAL ~~ OF ORGAN
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Figure 9,12 DyedChinese &&waterpear
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masn q~w q ma^ umqmd pamapnu pamp n
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Figure 9,17Cultured pearl, ahowing
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Figure 9.22Coated p hk bead with wo
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10 Shell
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Figure 10.2Cowrie ahells: natural a
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Figure 10.5Three opercula (magn5ed)
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178 GEMS AND ORNAMENTAL MAlXRlMS OF
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180 GaMs AND ORNAMHNTAL MATBRIALS O
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of the shell is lost. It is usually
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184 GHMs AND ORNAMENTAL MATERIALS O
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××
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11 Coral
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Tlis order covers soft corals, but
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198 GBMs AND ORNAMENTAL MATBRIALS O
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200 G W AND ORNAMENTAL MATERIMS OF
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202 G W AND ORMAMENTAL MA-OF ORGANI
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204 GEMS AND OKNAMENTAL MATERIMS OF
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206 GHhZs AND ORNAMENTAL MllRUU OF
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210 GaMs AND ORN-AL MATERIM3 OF ORG
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212 GaMs AND ORN-AL MATERIAIS OF OR
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12 Miscellaneous organics
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222 GEMS AND 0-AL MA- OF ORGANIC OR
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Figure 12.5 Chinme lacquer brooch (
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Figure 12.8Vegetable ivorg structur
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MIScELIANROUS ORGANICS 233Figme 12.
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Figum 12.12 Two demtive cups of osi
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Figare 13,lShellac Union case.Shell
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244 GEMS AND OKNAMENTAL MATERIMS OF
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246 GaMs AND 0-AL MATERIMS OF ORGAN
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Glossary×
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