Destinacija - Adria Airways

Adria AirwaysIn-flight MagazineVaš brezplačni izvod - oktober, november Your personal copy - October, November 2012DestinacijaMÜNCHENDestinationMunichALEN KOBILICASKRITE POTI, KI PRIPOVEDUJEJO ZGODBE /STORIES OF THE HIDDEN TRAILSGRAD ZAPRICE /ZAPRICE CASTLEMED BIZELJSKIMI VINOGRADI /AMONG THE VINEYARDS of BIZELJSKOLjubljanSKI KINO PARADIŽ /LJUBLJANA'S CINEMA PARADISEEGIPT / EGYPTPRIJETNA ARHITEKTURAZA JESEN ŽIVLJENJA /PLEASANT ARCHITECTUREFOR THE AUTUMN OF LIFEMED DVEMA SVETOVOMA /BETWEEN TWO WORLDSZIP LINE / ZIP-LINING05)

STEKLARNA ROGAŠKA d.d., Ulica talcev 1, 3250 Rogaška Slatina; foto: Iztok Nikolić, IZ+IV dizajn studioZA DUŠO IN AMBIENT.Creating sublime ambience with functional and decorative crystal pieces.Europe’s foremost crystal creator is the clear choice.S funkcionalnimi in dekorativnimi izdelki ustvarjamo in plemenitimo ambiente.Kristalno jasen izbor.Ljubljana Center, Mestni trg 22Ljubljana BTC - Kristalna palača, Ameriška ulica 8Koper, Čevljarska ulica 15Rogaška Slatina, Ulica talcev 1www.steklarna-rogaska.si

Telekom Slovenije, d. d., 1546 Ljubljana.S SiOL TVizbirajte med vsemi tekmamiUEFA Lige prvakovv živo in v HD! **Velja za vse tekme na SiOL TV in Planet TV, skupaj 130 tekem. Za ogled tekem je potrebno naročilo dodatka SiOL Nogomet na SiOL TV ali naSiOL TViN-u, razen v primeru paketov TopTrio, TopTrio optika in TopTrio HD, ki SiOL nogomet že vključujejo. Naročilo je možno od 17. 9. 2012dalje. V okviru SiOL TViN-a je naročilo dodatka SiOL Nogomet omogočeno vsem uporabnikom ob upoštevanju tehničnih pogojev, potrebnihza delovanje storitve, na območju Slovenije. Telekom Slovenije, d. d. si pridržuje pravico do sprememb cen in pogojev. Slike so simbolične. Zadodatne informacije, pogoje in cene obiščite www.siol.net/storitve in www.siol.tv, pokličite 080 8000 in 041 700 700 ali obiščite Telekomove centrein druga prodajna mesta Telekoma Slovenije.

PISMO / LETTERSpoštovanepotnice, cenjenipotniki!Veseli me, da vas lahko v imenu vsehzaposlenih pozdravim na letalu AdrieAirways!Minilo je prvo leto, odkar smo se v Adrii lotiliprocesa intenzivnega prestrukturiranja podjetja.Cilj, ki smo si ga postavili, je, da bi do konca leta2013 postali učinkovito, uspešno in dobičkonosnopodjetje, ki bo zagotavljalo svojimpotnikom učinkovite in hitre povezave medpomembnimi evropskimi mesti ter območjemjugovzhodne Evrope.Od prvih ukrepov, sprejetih poleti 2011 inusmerjenih predvsem v finančno prestrukturiranjepodjetja, se je naša pozornost osredotočilana stroške in na komercialno področje. Skladnos tem postopoma ukinjamo letenje na linijah,ki ne prinašajo ustreznih finančnih rezultatov.Odraz vseh teh prizadevanj je dobro viden žev obdobju do konca avgusta in kaže na to, dase je zasedenost potniške kabine povečala za 4odstotke v primerjavi z lanskim letom. Prav takose je povečal prihodek od prodanega sedeža.V kolikor ste brskali po naših spletnih straneh,ste verjetno opazili, da smo vzpostavili novospletno stran, ki je, tako vsaj upamo, prijaznejšado uporabnikov. Ponaša se s sodobno oblikoin preglednejšo vsebino. Prav gotovo je to tudirazlog, da se je število obiskov podvojilo.Dovolite mi, da vas ob tej priložnosti opozorimše na ponovno uvedbo zimskega voznega reda,ki bo stopil v veljavo z 28. oktobrom in prinašadoločene novosti. Točnejše informacije vamnudimo na strani, kjer so objavljene adrijske novosti,prav tako pa vas vabim, da si podrobnejeogledate vso našo ponudbo na www.adria.si.Kljub vsem aktivnostim, ki jih izvajamo v procesuracionalizacije, pa ostajata najpomembnejšaelementa naše poslovne vizije varnost in kakovost.Zavedamo se, da potniki cenite tiste ponudnike,ki so poleg cene sposobni zagotovititudi varno in kakovostno storitev. To, da danesletite z nami, je dokaz vašega zaupanja.Želim vam prijeten let in kmalu na svidenje!Klemen Boštjančič,predsednik upraveFotografija: Irena Herakdear passengers,I am pleased to be able to welcome youaboard this Adria Airways flight onbehalf of all Adria employees.It has been a year since we first started the processof intensive company restructuring. Our goalis that by the end of 2013, we will have becomean efficient, successful and profitable companyproviding passengers with efficient and fast connectionsbetween major European cities and theregion of Southeast Europe.The first measures, adopted in the summer of2011, were aimed mostly at financial restructuring.Today we are focusing our attention on costsand the commercial area of business. In keepingwith our plan, lines where we have not been seeingthe desired financial results are gradually beingterminated. The result of our efforts is reflectedin the period up to the end of August, in which wesaw a 4% increase in the number of passengerscompared to last year. Additionally, we are seeingan increase in income on each seat sold.If you have visited our website recently, you will havenoticed that it has been updated to a new and, wehope, more user-friendly version distinguished by amodern layout and easily reviewable content. As aresult, the number of visitors has doubled.Allow me to take this opportunity to draw yourattention to the new flight schedule; in force from28 October, it features several changes. For moreinformation, turn to the page of news from Adria.For a more detailed overview of our offer, pleasevisit our website at www.adria.si.In spite of all the activities in the rationalisationprocess, our business vision continues to focuson the two most important elements: safetyand quality. We recognise that passengers valueairlines that are able to offer a safe and qualityservice at an affordable price. The fact that youare flying with us today is evidence of your trust.I wish you a pleasant flight and hope to see youagain soon.Klemen Boštjančič,President of the Management Board & CEO3

Adria Airways In-Flight MagazineBrezplačen izvod / Your personal copyRevija Adria Airways In-Flight Magazineje namenjena potnikom na poletih z Adrio Airways.Adria Airways In-Flight Magazine is complimentary on AdriaAirways flights.Izdajatelj / Publisher:Adria Airways, Slovenski letalski prevoznik, d.d.Adria Airways, The Airline of SloveniaZgornji Brnik 130h, 4210 Brnik – AerodromUrednica / Editor-in-chief:Barbara Mihevc BukovecTel. / Phone + 386 4 259 4541E- mail: barbara.bukovec@adria.siUredništvo / Editorial board:Alen MlekužTina JordanSara SlodejOglaševanje / Advertising:Alenka DvoršakTel. / Phone+ 386 4 259 4526E- mail:alenka.dvorsak@adria.siSLOANG40 62 4658 80Naslovnica / Cover:Blaž ZupančičOblikovanje in AD /Design and AD:IDEARNA d.o.o.Prevod /Translated by:AmidasAlkemist,74prevajalske storitve d.o.o.Lektorica / Proofreader:Vera SamohodFotoliti / Lithography:SET, d.o.o.Tisk / Printed by:Korotan – Ljubljana, d.o.o.ISSN 1318-0789Mnenja, izražena v tej publikaciji, so zgolj mnenja avtorjev ali intervjuvancevin ne odsevajo nujno stališč Adrie Airways.Razmnoževanje brez pisnega dovoljenja je prepovedano. Izdajateljne prevzema nikakršne odgovornosti za nenaročeno gradivo.The opinions expressed in this publicationare those of the authors orpersons interviewed alone and do not necessarily reflect the views ofAdria Airways.Reproduction without written permission is prohibited. The publisheraccepts no responsibility for unsolicited material.10692864

VsebinaContents40.46.58.66.74.adrijin potnik / ADRIA PASSENGERAlen Kobilica >>Najprepoznavnejši slovenski modelSlovenia's best known modelAlen mlekužDESTINACIJAMÜnchenDESTINATION Munichsara slodejblaž zupančičSkrite poti, kipripovedujejo zgodbeTrnovski gozdStories of the hidden trailsThe magical Trnovski gozdjože balasgrad zapriceMuzej, kjer je shranjena večtisočletnazgodovina Kamnikazaprice castleThe museum where several thousandsyears of Kamnik's history is keptpolona zupančičblaž zupančičmed bizeljskimivinogradi in repnicamiAmong the vineyards and root cellars ofbizeljskomarjan žibernaboštjan pucelj80. ljubljanski kino paradiž,Od začetnih do zlatih časovkinematografovLjubljana's cinema paradise,From the beginnings to the golden Era ofcinemaklemen žun86. egiptEgyptGorazd dominkoarhiv MNSAnja čop92. prijetna arhitekturaza jesen življenjaDomovi za starejše: trije primeri iz Slovenijepleasant ARCHITECTURE for theautumn of lifeHomes for the elderly: three cases fromSlovenianada šerbeljmiran kambič, arhiv98. Med dvema svetovomaoaza dunhuangBetween two worldsThe oasis of Dunhuangjože balas106. Svoboden kot pticaZip line z eno najdaljših prog v Evropifree as a birdZip-lining on one of Europe's longest trackscarmen lebaniztok dimc5

Novosti - newspoletni voznired in napovedzimskegavoznega redaAdrijin poletni vozni red je v veljavi le šedo 27. oktobra 2012. V njem vam AdriaAirways nudi polete iz Ljubljane na 15različnih destinacij po Evropi. Štirikratdnevno leti v Frankfurt, trikrat dnevnona Dunaj, v München in Zürich. Ljubljanopovezuje trinajstkrat z Brusljem,Skopje enajstkrat in Moskvo osemkrattedensko. V Amsterdam, Istanbul, Prištinoin Tirano leti sedemkrat na teden,šestkrat v Beograd, petkrat v Sarajevo intrikrat v Koebenhavn in Podgorico.S koncem poletnega voznega reda sepostopoma zaključujejo tudi poletneredne povezave z Barcelonoin Manchestrom.Redni poleti med Prištino in Frankfurtomter Münchnom in Verono ostajajov veljavi do konca poletnega voznegareda, in sicer šestkrat tedensko vFrankfurt, petkrat v München in dvakratv Verono.V zimskem voznem redu, ki se pričenjaz 28. oktobrom in bo trajal vse do koncamarca 2013, bo Adria opravila 169rednih tedenskih letov na 15 destinacijiz Ljubljane in 3 iz Prištine. Adrijina letalabodo letela v Amsterdam, Beograd,Bruselj, Istanbul, na Dunaj, v Frankfurt,Koebenhavn, Moskvo, München, Podgorico,Prištino, Sarajevo, Skopje, Tiranoin Zürich.S pomočjo trdnega članstva v svetovnemglobalnem združenju StarAlliance ohranja Adria Airways svojoposlovno politiko mrežnega prevoznika,ki ponuja globalno storitev. Članicezdruženja Star Alliance opravijodnevno več kot 21.500 letov na 1.356letališč v 193 državah.Za vse, željne toplih krajev, tudi pozimiorganiziramo v sodelovanju s turističnimiagencijami čarterske lete v priljubljenipočitniški destinaciji v Egiptu –Sharm el Sheik in Hurgado.Summer flightschedule andwinter flightscheduleannouncementThe Adria Airways summer flight scheduleonly remains valid until 27 October 2012.As part of the summer schedule, Adriais offering flights from Ljubljana to 15destinations across Europe. There are fourflights daily to Frankfurt and three flightsdaily to Vienna, Munich and Zurich, aswell as thirteen flights a week to Brussels,eleven a week to Skopje, eight to Moscow,seven to Amsterdam, Istanbul, Pristinaand Tirana, six to Belgrade, five to Sarajevoand three flights a week to Copenhagenand Podgorica.As the summer flight schedule comes to anend, so do the regular summer Ljubljana-Barcelona and Ljubljana-Manchester lines.Regular flights between Pristina and Frankfurt,Munich and Verona will continue untilthe summer flight schedule expires; thereare six flights a week to Frankfurt, five toMunich and two to Verona.The winter flight schedule, valid from 28October until the end of March 2013, willsee Adria operate 169 regular weekly flightsto 15 destinations from Ljubljana and 3destinations from Pristina. Adria's planeswill fly to Amsterdam, Belgrade, Brussels,Istanbul, Vienna, Frankfurt, Copenhagen,Moscow, Munich, Podgorica, Pristina,Sarajevo, Skopje, Tirana and Zurich.Thanks to its secure membership in Star Alliance,the global airline association, AdriaAirways is able to maintain its businesspolicy of a network airline offering globalservices. Star Alliance members operateover 21,500 flights a day to 1,356 airportsin 193 countries.For people missing the sunshine, we willcontinue to work with travel agencies thiswinter to provide chartered flights to twopopular holiday destinations in Egypt,Sharm el Sheikh and Hurghada.Revija Adria In-FlightMagazine nagrajenaV Ljubljani je 20. septembra že tretjič potekala mednarodnastrokovna konferenca POMP Forum 2012. Tema tokratnekonference je bil vsebinski marketing. Podjetja in z njimiposamezne blagovne znamke se v današnjem času soočajo znovimi komunikacijskimi izzivi in možnostmi, ki ga je prineselsodoben način življenja. Kako bodo posamezna podjetjasprejela te izzive in jih znala vgraditi v novo komunikacijskookolje za doseganje čim boljših poslovnih ciljev, je vprašanje,na katerega so odgovarjali uveljavljeni tuji strokovnjaki inpojasnjevali, kako, kdaj in zakaj vsebinski marketing deluje.Na konferenci so bile predstavljene tudi najboljše slovenskekorporativne revije in tokrat tudi prvič nagrajene. Od približno500 korporativnih revij, kolikor jih danes izhaja v Sloveniji,je bilo šest posameznih medijev nagrajenih s področjavsebinskega marketinga. Med prvimi nagrajenci se je znašlatudi naša revija Adria In-Flight Magazine, saj je s svojimdolgoletnim stažem – nastaja že 24 let – ter z lepo, zanimivoin vsebinsko bogato zasnovo izvrstna korporativna revija, ki jelahko vzor marsikateremu podjetju tako doma kot v tujini.Award for the AdriaIn-Flight MagazineThe third POMP Forum 2012 international conference was held inLjubljana on 20 September. The focus of this year's conference wason content marketing. Companies and individual brands continueto face new communication challenges and opportunitiesarising from the modern way of life. How will individual companiestake on the challenge and will they be able to integrate it intoa new communication environment to achieve top business goals– this was the question addressed by renowned internationalexperts, who also discussed the subject of how, when and whycontent marketing really works.The conference also saw a presentation of Slovenia's topcorporate magazines and an introduction of awards for thebest magazines. Out of some 500 corporate magazines beingpublished in Slovenia today, 6 publications received awards in thefield of content marketing. One of the first recipients was our AdriaIn-Flight Magazine, whose long history – the magazine was firstpublished 24 years ago – and its well-designed, interesting and diversecontent make it an excellent corporate magazine that couldserve as an example for many companies in Slovenia and abroad.6

AKTUALNO - latest OFFERSUjemi ugoden polet ...Na vseh Adrijinih rednih linijah imamo ugodne ponudbe po načelu»Kupi prej, potuj ceneje«. Da bi našo ponudbo še bolj približali vašimpotrebam, imamo na voljo znižane cene potovanj tudi med tednom.Adria Airways Special Offers!Special offers are available on all of Adria’s scheduled services on a “buy early,fly for less” basis. To make our services even more attractive, reduced fares areavailable for travel during the week.Adrijine E-noviceVabimo vas, da obiščete naše spletne strani www.adria.si in se prijavitena Adrijine E-novice. S tem boste enkrat mesečno obveščeni o našihnovostih in posebnih ponudbah. E-novice bodo za vas vir dragocenihinformacij in idej pri načrtovanju potovanja ali počitnic.Naj bo obveščenost vaša prednost!Adria E-newsWhy not visit our website www.adria.si and subscribe to Adria’s E-newsservice? Once a month you will receive updates on new services and specialoffers – straight to your inbox! This means that E-news will be a valuablesource of information and ideas when you are planning a journey or holiday.Let information be your advantage!Pri nas niste le prtljagaZa jesenske dni smo vam pripravili posebno ponudbo z imenom »Pri nasniste le prtljaga«, kjer vam nudimo, da poletite z nami iz Ljubljane v obdobjuod 10. novembra do 16. decembra in od 10. januarja do 24. marca2013 že za ceno od 99 EUR dalje. Cena velja za povratna potovanja na direktnihpoletih Adrie Airways, ki mora biti tudi dejanski prevoznik (letališkepristojbine in druge dajatve ter strošek spletne rezervacije so že vključeni vceno). Pogoj je, da ostanete na destinaciji čez vikend ali vsaj 3 dni . Nakupje možen od 1. do 31.oktobra 2012 na prodajnih mestih ali preko spleta nawww.adria.si. Zgoraj navedena cena ni na voljo na vseh letih in datumih,prav tako je število mest na posamičnem letu omejeno.Vabimo vas, da si več o ponudbi in posameznih pogojih ogledate nanaši spletni strani.We Won't Treat You Like LuggageFor this autumn, we have prepared a special offer called "We Won't Treat YouLike Luggage". The offer includes flights from Ljubljana in the period from 10November to 16 December and from 10 January to 24 March 2013 startingfrom just EUR 99. The price applies to return journeys on direct Adria Airwaysflights where Adria is the flight operator (airport taxes, other fees and the costof online booking are included in the price). The offer is subject to the conditionthat you remain at the destination over the weekend or no fewer than 3days. Ticket purchases can be made from 1 to 31 October 2012 at Adria Airwayspoints of sale or online at www.adria.si. The above price is not availablefor all flights on all dates. The number of seats on individual flights is limited.Please visit our website for more information about the offer and the termsand conditions.Pridružite se nam na FacebookuJoin us on Facebookhttp://www.facebook.com/AdriaAirwaysSledite nam na TwitterjuFollow us on Twitterhttp://twitter.com/adria_airways© Corbis/IPAK Imagesamsterdam –LJUBLJANA –skopjeodfrom299 EURbruselj –LJUBLJANA –prištinaodfrom249 EURfrankfurt –LJUBLJANA –sarajevoodfromdunaj –ljubljana –tiranaod299 EUR from 249 EURVse navedene cene veljajo za povratna potovanja na Adrijinih poletih in vključujejo vse ostale dajatve razen stroška rezervacije. Število ponujenih sedežev po tej ceni je omejeno. Ponudba velja v času trajanja veljavnostiIn-flight Magazina. The prices listed above are for Adria Airways return flights and include all taxes and fees except booking fees. There is a limited number of seats avaliable at this price; the offer is valid for the time the In-FlightMagazine is valid or longer.7

Wherever my photo shoots take me, I can earn miles,and spend them taking my family with me.Across 27 member airlines, all on one card.I’ve earned it.Annie Griffiths, National Geographic Photographerand Star Alliance Gold Statusstaralliance.comTa oglas je zaradi ohranitve neposrednosti in avtentičnosti besedila in kerje besedilo zlasti namenjeno tujim bralcem, natisnjen v angleškem jeziku.

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REGIONALNA DESTINACIJSKA ORGANIZACIJAREGIONAL DESTINATION ORGANIZATIONBlagodejno delovanje vode, masaž, toplega zraka,sončnih žarkov, aromatičnih olj in soli… soodkrili že tisočletja pred nami. Danes s znanjem,izkušnjami in iskrenim veseljem naše goste razvajamo na»stare« in nove načine v termah, hotelih in salonih dobregapočutja. Da si okrepite telo in duha, vas povabimo vas naigrišče za golf, od koder se odpirajo prelepi pogledi naPtuj ter griče Haloz in Slovenskih goric. Na »konjskemhrbtu« ali kolesu se podajte okoli Ptujskega jezera, ki ssvojo velikostjo preseneti vsakega obiskovalca, ptičje petjeiz ornitološkega parka pa doni v ušesih še dolgo potem.Bolj zahtevni se boste podali v zelene Haloze in sončneSlovenske Gorice, za lagodno raziskovanje pa so idealne»prijazno ravne« poti Ptujskega in Dravskega polja, pa obDravi vse do Ormoža in Središča. Željnim izzivov ponudimopolet z letalom ali balonom, na trdna tla se lahko vrnetetudi s skokom v tandemu s padalom. Na Ptujskem morjuvas čakajo jadrnice, kajaki in kanuji, deskanje in ediniwake park daleč naokrog. Prijetno utrujene od vsegalepega vas po Ptujskem jezeru popelje turistična ladja, poPtuju, Ormožu, Makolah in Poljčanah pa turistični vlakec.Najlepši zaključek doživetij polnega dne pa je romantičnavožnja s kočijo na Jeruzalem!Prelepi pogledi božajo oči in dušo ne glede na izbraninačin, vaše moči pa povrnejo tradicionalne in sodobnedobrote, ki jih posebej za vas z ljubeznijo pripravijo našikuharski mojstri, brbončice pa do konca razvadijo slastnavrhunska vina iz priznanih kleti!Dobrodošli v rajski deželi ob Dravi – v destinaciji v Ptuj-Jeruzalem Ormož-Haloze-Slovenske gorice!Beneficial effects of water, massage, hotair, sun rays, aromatic oils and saltswere discovered thousands of years ago.It is our great pleasure to spoil our guests inall possible ways, ancient or modern, in the spaor hotel and salons, as long as it is about thestrengthening of body and soul. That is whywe shall invite our guests to join in at the golfcourse from where exceptional views of the oldtown core and the castle can be enjoyed. Or, youmay want to rent a bike and ride around theartificial lake which is quite surprising whenit comes to its size. Birds singing, particularlystrong in the park of Šturmovci, will echo inyour ears for a long time still. You may wishto cycle right to the green hills of Haloze orto sunny Slovenske Gorice hills, which are abit more demanding than generous flat plainsof Ptuj and Drava fields. If you feel tired nearthe lake, just wait for the next boat shuttlewhich will take you to town. But if you area bit more daring, you will wait for a hot-airballoon or a glider to show you around. Viewsare breathtaking and after a ride you will haveto restore yourself in one of the numeroustaverns or inns offering, besides exceptionalmeals, their own production of wines. Winetasting can also be organised in one of manytourist farms or in Slovene Jerusalem.www.visitptuj.euwww.visitjeruzalem-ormoz.euwww.visithaloze.euwww.visitslovenskegorice.euRezervacije / Booking: Ptujske vedute E: ptuj@vedute.si T: +386 2 778 87 80Terme Ptuj E: info@terme-ptuj.si T: +386 2 74 94 100foto: Ciril Ambrož, Matija Brodnjak, Vid Ponikvar, arhiv RDO, arhivi partnerjev RDO, Aljoša Videtič, Črtomir Goznik, Rado Škrjanec,Aleš Fevžer, arhiv projekta Vinocool

ADRIA AIRWAYSVse, kar vas zanima o letalstvuV tokratni številkiodgovarja kapitanIztok Kavčič nazanimivo vprašanje,kako nevarni sotrki ptic in letal.Fotografija: Jože KovačičPtice, predvsem tiste, ki so spretne letalke, predstavljajo letalcem sinonim za letenje.Občudujemo njihovo sposobnost jadranja in se ne moremo načuditi, kakospretno izkoriščajo termične vzgornike, ko brez posebnega gibanja kril prepotujejorazdalje in pridobivajo višino. Včasih, ko želimo izraziti, kako spreten je kdood pilotov, rečemo, da »leti kot ptica«.Fotografija: Rok BeličV slovenskem prostoru jadralni piloti pogosto letijo – jadrajo s svojimi elegantnimi jadralnimi letaliskupaj s pticami, kot so orli, sokoli, kragulji, kanje in druge ujede, ki niso prav nič plašne in se počutijokot gospodarji »svojega« neba. Včasih se celo zgodi, da ta del svojega sveta branijo z napadanjemjadralnega letala, kar pa se za ptice zaradi trka ne konča vedno najbolje.Do trka s pticami prihaja tudi pri potniških letalih. Piloti se zaradi velike hitrosti potniških letal temtrkom ne moremo izogniti. Večinoma se trki dogajajo v prostoru v bližini letališč in na nižjih višinah.Letališča, predvsem v velikih mestih, so s svojimi velikimi travnatimi površinami oaza z obilico hraneza vse vrste ptic, tudi ptic selivk, ki v velikih jatah oblegajo letališča v času migracije.14

Everything You Wantedto Know About AviationMorda ste slišali za primer izpred dobrih treh let,ko je letalo pri poletanju z letališča v New Yorkuvletelo v jato gosi. Po odpovedi obeh motorjevsta pilota z odličnostjo izvedla manever pristajanjana reki Hudson. Mislim, da je to edini primerv potniškem prometu, ko je prišlo zaradi ptic dopopolne odpovedi obeh motorjev. Seveda sopoškodbe odvisne od velikosti in količine ptic, kipriletijo v letalo oziroma motor. Večje ptice, kotže omenjene ujede, so za letalo nevarnejše, vendartudi redko sekajo pot letala. Večinoma pritrku z letalom le delno poškodujejo trup letala,če pa vletijo v motor, le-ta povsem ne odpove.Poškodbe so navadno takšne, da lahko nadaljujelet in ga varno zaključi s pristankom.Izdelovalci letal, predvsem letalskih motorjev,namenijo veliko inženirskega časa in denarjaza raziskovanje vpliva udarcev ptic. Prednjideli letala in vetrobranska stekla v kokpitu,ki so najbolj izpostavljeni, so ojačani in takoprilagojeni, da v primeru trka s ptičem ne pridedo poškodb oziroma da so le-te čim manjše.Letalske motorje preizkušajo na testih pri polnimoči delovanja tudi s tem, da vanje izstreljujejovečje zamrznjene ptice. Tak letalski motor morakljub poškodbam še vedno delovati v mejahstrogih standardov. Glede na rezultate testovnato izdelovalci motorjev po potrebi prilagodijokonstrukcijo motorja in s tem zagotovijo varnostpotnikov in letala.Svoj delež pri preprečevanju trkov ptic z letaliopravijo tudi letališča. S pravilno tempiranokošnjo trave omogočajo, da je na travnikih čimmanj semen in mrčesa, hrane, ki privablja ptice.Uporabljajo tudi avdio-vizualne pripomočke, kiplašijo ptice in jih s tem odganjajo z letališč. Nanekaterih letališčih, pred leti tudi na ljubljanskem,občasno uporabljajo za plašenje ptictrenirane sokole, ki so s svojo prisotnostjo strahin trepet manjšim pticam.Vam in pticam želim čim bolj miren let in vas donaslednje številke lepo pozdravljam.Kapitan Iztok Kavčič,vodja flote AirbusP. S. Kaj pa vas zanima o letalstvu? Vaša vprašanjapričakujemo na elektronskem naslovuinflightmagazine@adria.si.In this issue, Captain Iztok Kavčič answers theinteresting question of how dangerousa collision between a bird and anaeroplane really is.Birds, particularly the species thatexcel at flying, are seen by pilots asa synonym for flying. We admiretheir gliding skills and are endlesslyfascinated by their ability to takeadvantage of thermal columns inorder to travel long distances andgain altitude while hardly movingtheir wings. If we want to emphasisea pilot’s skills, we sometimes even saythat he/she “flies like a bird”.In the Slovenian airspace, glider pilots can oftenbe found flying their elegant gliders – soaringthrough the air with birds such as eagles,falcons, hawks, buzzards and other birds ofprey, none of which are particularly shy and allof which like to behave as masters of the sky.Sometimes they even try to defend this part oftheir world by attacking the glider, but these collisionstend to end badly for the birds.Bird strikes can also happen with passengerplanes. Because they travel at very high speeds,pilots are unable to prevent such collisions. Mostbird strikes happen in the vicinity of airportsand at lower altitudes. The expanses of grasssurrounding an airport are a veritable oasisfor birds, providing them with an abundanceof food, particularly when it comes to airportsnear large cities. They attract all species of birds,including migratory birds, which descend onairports in large numbers as the time for migrationapproaches.You may have heard of a case about three yearsago when a plane was struck by a flock of geeseseconds after taking off from an airport in NewYork. After both engines gave out, the two pilotsexpertly landed the plane on the Hudson River.I believe that that is the only case in passengerair travel history when a bird strike caused bothengines to break down completely. Obviouslythe damage depends on the size and numberof birds that collide with the aeroplane or theengine. Larger birds such as the birds of preymentioned above pose a greater danger forthe plane, but it is also very rare for them toencounter a plane. Most of the time, birds onlycause slight damage to the fuselage if they collidewith a plane; if they strike an engine, it doesnot give out completely. Most of the time, anydamage caused allows the plane to continuethe flight and to land safely.Aeroplane manufacturers and manufacturersof aeroplane engines in particular spend a lotof time and money researching the effects ofbird strikes. The front parts of the plane andthe cockpit windows – the most exposed parts– are reinforced and modified to minimisethe potential for damage in the event of acollision. One of the ways in which aeroplaneengines are tested is by running them at fullthrust and firing large frozen birds at them.Even if damaged, these engines must continueto operate within the limits prescribed by strictstandards. Based on the test results, enginemanufacturers modify the engine structure inorder to ensure the safety of the plane and thepassengers on it.Airports also do their share to prevent birds collidingwith planes. By mowing the grass at theright intervals, they reduce the amount of seedsand insects to be found in the meadows, thusminimising the attraction for birds. They also useaudiovisual devices to scare birds away from theairport. At some airports – the Ljubljana airportwas one of them until some years ago – theyeven use trained falcons, whose very presence isenough to drive fear into any smaller birds.I wish you – and the birds – a calm and pleasantflight. See you in the next issue.Captain Iztok KavčičAirbus Fleet Chief PilotP. S. What would you like to know aboutaviation? Send us your questions to the emailaddress inflightmagazine@adria.si.15

ADRIA smo ljudjeJože Kovačič,kopilot na letalu CRJ-200/900 in ljubiteljski fotograf letalstvaBESEDILO: Sara slodej Fotografije: jože kovačičKljub stereotipnim predstavam o racionalnihpilotih, ki so zelo tehnično in naravoslovnousmerjeni, med »letalci« nemalokrat odkrijemoprave umetniške duše. Presenečenje alipa tudi ne. Včasih namreč tudi piloti zaradinarave svojega dela, tako kot pesniki, ustvarjajoponoči in spijo čez dan. Juice je takšnaumetniška duša. Vzdevek je izpeljanka iznjegovega imena Jože. V Juicejevih krajih – vPrlekiji – se ime Jože uporablja tudi v skrajšaniobliki Juš. V gimnazijskih časih pa mu je sošolecime spremenil še iz Juš v Juice. Ta vzdevekse je potem prijel in ga uporablja še danes.Juice nosi v sebi umetniškega duha, pri svojem delu pa jetudi zelo kritičen, natančen in zahteven do sebe in drugih.Pravi perfekcionist, kar se odraža tudi na njegovih fotografijah.Resneje se je začel ukvarjati s fotografijo pred sedmimi leti, koje še delal kot pilot v vojski. Kot vojaški pilot je imel možnostposneti fotografije, ki so bile zaradi vojaških letal in helikopterjevatraktivne same po sebi. Letalska tehnika v vojski jemnogim nedostopna, Juiceu pa je bilo skozi delo zelo enostavnonajti motive in posneti zelo privlačne fotografije. Če seje le dalo, si je med delom vzel trenutek za fotografiranje. Kotpravi, je začel z zelo enostavnim digitalnim fotoaparatom, kiga danes verjetno dobiš v trgovinskem centru za nagrado, kozapraviš več kot 10 evrov. Nekaj fotografij je seveda uspelo intako si je zaželel boljše opreme in še več dobrih posnetkov.Fotografija letalstva je nadgradnja ljubezni do poklica,logično nadaljevanje?Vsekakor. Za letalstvo in z njim živim praktično vsa svoja leta.Kljub temu pa je ves ta čas prisotna še ena iskra, ki mi ne damiru. To je umetniški duh, ki traja že od osnovne šole dalje.V gimnaziji sem sodeloval tudi na mednarodnih likovnihtekmovanjih. Tako zdaj prepletam motive v fotografiji strenutnim poklicem. Kot ljubitelju letalstva, v katerem semže več kot 20 let, mi je ta tematika zelo pri srcu. Povezana je stem, kar čutim. Ne fotografiram letal in tega okolja le zato, kerje to zame kot pilota priročno, ampak mi je to dejansko zeloprivlačno. Včasih pri svojem delu pogrešam produkt. Zeloso mi všeč poklici, ki ustvarjajo izdelke. Zahvala in zadovoljstvopotnikov sta odlična motivacija za delo, včasih pa mije manjkalo tisto, kar doživlja na primer mizar, ki izdela svojprodukt – končni izdelek, na katerega je lahko ponosen. Zdajmi fotografija prinaša ta del in dopolnjuje moj poklic.V čem se razlikuje pogled na letala skozi fotografskiobjektiv od pogleda iz pilotske kabine?Težko je potegniti ločnico. Ko sem začel pred štirimi leti delativ Adrii Airways, sem v službi vsak dan videl neskončnoveliko motivov. S časom ta romantika morda malo zbledi,motivi pa so se začeli ponavljati: enaka letališča, bela letala.Takrat sem moral začeti gledati drugače, bolj z občutkom.Ni bil več dovolj le navaden pogled iz pilotske kabine. Danajdeš motiv, ki bi bil lahko privlačen tudi za druge, morašvideti nekaj več. Verjamem, da je tam zunaj še ogromnozanimivih motivov, kljub temu pa se moram zdaj, ko to počnemže nekaj časa, bolj potruditi, da jih najdem. V začetkukariere v Adrii Airways so bili vsi letalski motivi zame resskoraj čarobni. Vsa ta tehnika, ogromna letala čisto od blizu... fascinantno. Te romantike je z leti res malo manj, so pavedno prisotni posebni trenutki, in takrat hitro potegnemfotoaparat iz torbe.Kje te spremlja fotoaparat? Je gledanje s fotografskimočesom iz hobija že preraslo v način življenja?V tem trenutku je fotografija zame morda še vedno hobi,čeprav mogoče zahtevajo določeni projekti celo nekaj veččasa, kot si v začetku predstavljaš oziroma koliko časa sivzameš. Fotoaparat, če se le da, vzamem s sabo. To pomenitudi dva ali tri kilograme dodatne teže. Žal mi je samotakrat, kadar določenega trenutka ne ujamem v objektiv, kernimam pri sebi fotoaparata.Fotografija je po drugi strani način življenja. Ker je mojaslužba – letenje – način življenja, je pravzaprav tudi fotografiranjeletal način življenja.16

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ADRIA smo ljudjeKaj je zate pravo bistvo fotografije? Sporočilo,zgodba in čustva, ki jih fotografija vzbudi prinaslovniku, ali kompozicija in barve?Narediti dobro fotografijo, pomeni na nek načinujeti pravi trenutek, ki ga lahko doživiš ali pa ne.Dobra fotografija se od ostalih loči po tem, daima dušo. Najprej mora fotograf začutiti motivin zadihati s fotografijo. Niso dovolj le pravakompozicija, barve, tudi neki posebni motivi ne,temveč to, da zaživi celotna fotografija v povezaviz vsemi temi elementi. Da fotografijo začutiš, dane vidiš zgolj nekega objekta na papirju, ampakdoživiš fotografijo.Fotografije torej ne vidiš zgolj kot dokument,predstavitev trenutka v času in prostoru, ampakjo doživljaš kot način izražanja, umetnost,gledanje na svet, sporočanje svojih pogledov,vizij, motivov?Kompozicija vsekakor mora biti, lahko se tudiuporabi tako, da se z njo še bolj izrazi bistvofotografije. Preko kompozicije dobiš izraz, ki gafotografija kaže. Vendar pa nikakor ne vidimmotiva le v tehničnem smislu. Vedno želim, daje fotografija nekaj več kot le dokument. Želim,da se dotakne, da te ustavi. Fotografija moraimeti zgodbo, dušo. Vse to iščem pri fotografiranju– pri enem samem lahko posnamem tudiod 300 do 500 fotografij, na koncu pa sta le dveali tri ustrezne, da lahko potem nekaj ustvarim.Takrat se zares začne proces; njegov najslajši delje delo na terenu, ko vidiš motive, trenutke, kosi zunaj in uživaš v fotografiranju. Ko pa pridešdomov in vse skupaj postaviš na računalnik, sezačne trdo delo.Koliko obdeluješ posamezne fotografije? Kajmeniš o manipulaciji v sodobni fotografiji?Kot se je pred časom razvijala razprava, ali se boob digitalni fotografiji obdržala film fotografija,je zdaj vprašanje, ali je digitalna fotografija, kjerso možnosti obdelave fotografije številne, to šefotografija ali že grafika. Nekateri so privržencičiste fotografije, ki je takšna, kot jo poslikaš vdanem trenutku, nekateri pa so privrženci grafičneobdelave, kjer lahko iz fotografije nastanetudi že ilustracija. Sam izbiram neko srednjopot. Kljub obdelavi želim, da ostane fotografijain ne ilustracija. Vedno želim ohraniti prvinskostposnetka, kljub temu pa rad poudarim ostrino,barve, ki pritegnejo gledalca in na ta način šebolje govorijo zgodbo. Mejo pa si postavljamvedno sproti. Vsaka fotografija je zgodba zase.Eno fotografijo lahko ustvarjam tudi cel dan alicelo nekaj dni. Pogosto se dogaja, da morašfotografijo tudi prespati, jo pustiti nekaj dni alicelo kakšen mesec pri miru. In potem jo vidiš nadrugačen način, nekaj drugega zaznaš v njej. Toje proces. Ni neke meje za posamezno fotografijo,vedno je odvisno od trenutka, motiva, tudi odtega, komu ali čemu je namenjena. Vem pa, dasem že šel kdaj predaleč pri obdelavi fotografij,vendar mi je všeč, da se ljudje sprašujejo o njej,tudi o tem, ali je obdelana ali ne. Želim, da ljudjerazmišljajo o fotografiji, zadihajo z njo, ne da jo legledajo. Nikoli ne skrivam oblikovanja fotografij.Kakšna je zate dobra fotografija in katera jetista, ki bi jo označil za najboljšo?Opazujem odlične fotografije kolegov fotografovin se poskušam postaviti v položaj fotografa, ko jeposlikal eno takih dobrih fotografij. Razmišljam otem, v kakšni situaciji je bil, o čem je razmišljal, kajje videl, kako je nekaj videl, kako je prišel do določenegapogleda. In razmišljam, kaj bi naredil sam.Zelo so mi všeč letala v pristajanju skozi meglo,ko na koncih kril nastajajo vrtinci. Da posnamešdobro fotografijo takšnega trenutka, moraš bitiv pravem trenutku na pravem mestu. In sevedaimeti pravo, vrhunsko opremo. Takšne fotografijemi na primer še ni uspelo narediti. To je mojcilj. Še vedno me zelo privlači vojaška letalskafotografija. Iz vidika fotografije mi je na nek načincelo žal, da zdaj, ko se ukvarjam s fotografijo,delam v civilnem letalstvu in ne v vojaškem.Na tem področju je zanimivih in vznemirljivihpogledov ter motivov še veliko več. Pri letenju vvojski je več neformalnega pristopa, v civilnempa so vse procedure, faze letenja predvidenevnaprej, ni prostora za improvizacijo. V vojaškemletalstvu pa je zaradi drugačnega letenja,nepredvidenih, včasih težkih situacij prisotnegaveč nekega posebnega naboja, ki ga v civilnemletalstvu ni. Takšni trenutki proizvajajo te posebnemotive za fotografijo.18

Jože Kovačič,CRJ-200/900 Co-Pilot and Aviation Photography Enthusiasttext: sARA SLODEJ Photography: JOŽE KOVAČIČDespite the stereotypes about pilotsand their rational, technical,scientific nature, there is many anartistic soul to be found amidst theclouds. Is this really a surprise? Thenature of their work means that,much like poets, pilots sometimesfind themselves creating at nightand sleeping during the day. Juice isone such artistic soul. His nicknamecomes from his real name, Jože. InJuice's native region – Ljutomer andPrlekija – the name Jože is oftenshortened to Juš. And then one ofhis classmates in secondary schoolrenamed him from Juš to Juice. Thenickname has stuck until today.Although Jože is full of creative spirit, he is highlycritical, precise and demanding of himself andothers when it comes to his work. A true perfectionist– something that also comes through inhis photographs.He became more seriously involved in photographyseven years ago, when he was still workingas a pilot in the army. As an army pilot, he hadmany opportunities to take photographs thatwere fascinating in terms of the army planes andhelicopters if nothing else. Most people don't haveaccess to army aircraft, but for Jože it was easy tofind new subjects through work and take interestingand appealing pictures. Whenever it waspossible, he took a few moments from work so hecould take some photographs. His first camera, hesays, was one of those basic digital models thatyou probably get as a gift for spending over EUR10 in a supermarket nowadays. But still, some ofthe photographs came out well and made himwant to have better equipment and take moreinteresting pictures.Is aviation photography a continuation ofthe love you feel for your profession, thelogical next step?Absolutely. I have been living and breathing aviationvirtually my entire life. But there has always beenanother spark in me, something that wouldn't goaway. I have had an artistic spirit ever since primaryschool. In secondary school, I took part in a fewinternational art contests. Today, I use my profession19

ADRIA is about peopleto find themes and subjects for photographs.As a huge fan of aviation and as someone whohas worked in the field for over 20 years now,this is my favourite subject. It is connected withwhat I feel. I don't take pictures of aeroplanes andthis world just because it is handy for me as apilot, but because I actually find it so appealing.Sometimes I miss the final product in what I do.I love professions that actually make something.The gratitude and satisfaction of passengers aregreat motivators, but I used to miss the experienceof someone like a carpenter, someone who makesa final product that he can be proud of. That is thepleasure I get from photography now; it completesmy profession.What is the difference between looking ataeroplanes through a camera and lookingthrough the plane cockpit?It is difficult to separate the two. When I first startedworking at Adria Airways four years ago, I noticedendless potential photography subjects everyday I was at work. This romantic view has fadedslightly with time; the views have started to repeatthemselves – the same airports, the same whiteaeroplanes. That's when I knew that I had to startlooking at things differently, with more feeling. Itwas no longer enough simply to look through theplane cockpit. If you want to find a subject thatother people will also find appealing, you haveto look deeper. I still believe that there are endlessinteresting subjects for photography out there,but now that I've been taking pictures for a while,I have to try harder to find them. At the start ofmy career with Adria Airways, I found the manyaviation motifs around me almost magical. All thistechnology, giant aeroplanes from up close ... I wasfascinated. The romance fades slightly as the yearspass. But there is still a special moment now andthen, and I'm always ready with my camera.Where do you bring your camera? Has lookingat things through a camera lens developedfrom a hobby into a way of life for you?At this moment, I would say that photographyis still a hobby, although some projects can takeup more of my time than I had initially imaginedor planned. I always bring my camera if at allpossible. It means 2 to 3 kg of extra weight, andI usually regret taking it with me. On the otherhand, I quickly forget about the extra weight, butI never forget about the moments that I couldn'tcapture in a photograph because I didn't bring mycamera. Photography is a way of life as well. Sincemy job – flying – is a way of life, I suppose thatphotographing planes is a way of life also.What do you see as the essence of photography?Is it the message, story and emotionsthat it communicates to the observer, or is itthe composition and colours?In a way, taking a good picture means catchingthe right moment that you can either experienceor not. What sets a good photograph apart isthat it has soul. The first thing for a photographerto do is to feel the subject and breathe with thepicture. It takes more than just the right composition,colours or particular themes. You need theright combination of these elements that willbring the photograph to life. You have to feel thephotograph, not just see it as an object on paperbut actually experience it.You don't see a photograph as a mere document,a representation of a specific momentin time and space, then; you see it as a wayof expressing yourself, as art, a world view,a way to communicate your views, visionsand themes?Well, you still need a good composition; you caneven use composition to emphasise the essenceof a particular photograph. The expression of aphotograph comes through composition. But Idefinitely see more than just the subject in thetechnical sense. I always want a photograph tobe more than just a document. I want it to touchyou, to stop you in your tracks. A photographshould have a story, a soul. That is what I look forwhen taking pictures. I can take up to 300 or 500photographs during a single session and end upwith just 2 or 3 pictures that I can actually makesomething of. That's when the process starts, really.The best part of the process is working in thefield, when you spot a potential subject; all thosemoments when you're outdoors and just enjoyingtaking pictures. When you get home and transferthem to your computer, that is when the hardwork starts.To what extent do you process your photographs?How do you feel about digitalmanipulation in modern photography?There was a debate some time ago whether filmphotography would survive alongside digitalphotography; now the question is whether digitalphotography with all the processing possibilitiesis still photography or whether it is graphics.Some people believe in pure photography, inkeeping pictures exactly the way they were whenyou took them, while others prefer graphic processingto an extent that almost turns a photographinto an illustration. I've chosen the middleground. I do some processing, but I still want mywork to remain photographs rather than turnthem into illustrations. I always want to preservethe primeval character of a photograph, but Ialso like to enhance the sharpness and colours toattract the viewer and tell the story better. I tendto set the limits as I go along. Each photographis a story in itself. I can work on a single picturefor a whole day or even several days. It's often agood idea to sleep on a picture and to leave italone for a few days, sometimes even a wholemonth. When you come back to it, you see it ina different way, you sense something new in it. Itis a process. There is no general rule for all photographs– it always depends on the moment,the subject, even the person or purpose that thepicture is intended for. But it has happened beforethat I went too far with processing. I like to keeppeople guessing about a picture, including aboutwhether it has been processed or not. I wantpeople to think about a photograph, to breathewith it rather than just look at it. I never hide myphotography process.In your opinion, what makes a good photograph?What would you describe as the bestphotograph?I look at all the great pictures taken by my fellowphotographers and I try to put myself in the shoesof a photographer who has taken one of thesepictures. I imagine the situation they were in,what they were thinking about, what they sawand how they saw it, how they found a specificview. Then I try to put myself in the same situationand think about what I would have done. Ilove aeroplanes landing in the fog, when you cansee vortices forming at the wing tips. If you wantto take a good picture of this moment, you haveto be in the right place at the right time. Andhave the right kind and quality of equipment,obviously. I haven't managed to take a pictureof that yet. It's one of my goals. I still find armyaviation photography very appealing. When itcomes to photography, I even regret it in a waythat I work in civil aviation rather than armyaviation now that I'm into photography. Thereare so many interesting and exciting views andsubjects in the army. Flying for the army is moreinformal, while civil aviation is full of proceduresand every stage is planned in advance, so thereis no room for improvisation. It's different in thearmy; there are more unpredictable and difficultsituations that create a special tension that is justnot there in civil aviation. It's those kinds of momentsthat make for the most interesting themesin photography.20

WWW.AIRJUICE.SI21

ADRIA AIRWAYSAdria Flight Carreer CenterAdria Airways letalska šolaBESEDILO: SANDI KNEZ, direktor in odgovorni vodja AFCC FOTOGRAFIJE: Miro majcenAdria Airways letalska šola je v septembru praznovala 32-letnico svojega obstoja. Šola, ki sicer navzven ne kaže nobenihatributov klasičnega šolskega poslopja, nosi bistvo svojega poslanstva v znanju, izkušnjah in usposobljenostiinštruktorjev, ki svoje znanje z veliko mero entuziazma prenašajo na mlade rodove.Po nekaj letih zatišja na področju zaposlovanja novih pilotov je globalnaletalska industrija zopet na pragu največjega pomanjkanja pilotov doslej. Velikapodjetja, kot sta Boeing, Airbus in podobna, predvidevajo glede na vplačananaročila novih letal in na planirane upokojitve zaradi starostne mejeza poklicne pilote, da bo globalno letalstvo potrebovalo do leta 2030 preko460.000 novih poklicnih pilotov. To je v povprečju več kot 25.000 letno, 40%od tega pa zajema azijska regija. Zagotovo je to sedaj pravi čas za vse, kirazmišljajo o šolanju za poklicne pilote na potniških letalih. Obenem pa je tovelika priložnost za organizacije, ki se ukvarjajo s takim usposabljanjem.V Adrii smo se že pred časom začeli zavedati, kako pomembno je načrtnoin usmerjeno vzgajanje pilotov od prvih korakov naprej, zato je bila v sodelovanjus Fakulteto za strojništvo iz Ljubljane že leta 1980 ustanovljenaLetalska šola Adrie Airways. Namen šole je bil jasen že ob njeni ustanovitvi:šolati pilote na manjših letalih, da pridobijo poklicno licenco. Šola se jeuspešno razvijala vse do osamosvojitve Slovenije v devetdesetih letih,ko se je Adria znašla v težki ekonomski situaciji in so se potrebe po novihpilotih zmanjšale. Samo velikemu entuziazmu nekaterih posameznikov innjihovi prepričanosti v pomembnost obstoja šole gre zahvala, da je šolanadaljevala svoje delo in poslanstvo vse do današnjih dni, se preoblikovalav hčerinsko družbo Adrie Airways in začela pod okriljem nove blagovneznamke Adria Flight Carreer Center (kratko AFCC) tržiti svoje znanje. Šolase nahaja na brniškem letališču, kar predstavlja zaradi ugodne geografskelege odlično izhodišče na lokalnem trgu pa tudi izjemno dobro izhodiščeza povezave z regionalnimi trgi, kot je na primer Balkan, in globalnimi trgi,kot sta Zahodna in Vzhodna Evropa ter Bližnji vzhod, in širše, saj ima letališčena Brniku že vzpostavljene povezave z večjimi mesti v regiji in širšemglobalnem okolju.22

Naša vizija je, da bi AFCC postal eden izmed vodilnih kariernih centrov zacelotno letalsko osebje, tako v regionalnem kot širšem okolju. V načrtuimamo razviti se v prilagodljiv in odziven center celovite ponudbe specifičnihizobraževanj in usposabljanj na področju letalske industrije kot tudi center, kibo povezoval potrebe letalske industrije s tistimi, ki si želijo v njej delovati. Zavedamose, da je uresničevanje teh nalog možno le s kvalitetnimi, strokovnimiin dostopnimi programi izobraževanja in usposabljanja pilotov, kabinskegaosebja, letalskih dispečerjev, mehanikov, predavateljev itd. Pri tem želimo ssvojim poslanstvom v AFCC pomagati letalskemu osebju pri pridobivanjupotrebnih strokovnih znanj in jih povezati s podjetji, ki potrebujejo in iščejotako usposobljene kadre.Vrednote, ki smo se jim pri postavitvi AFCC zavezali in na katerih temelji našedelo, so naslednje:• visoka strokovnost, ki se kaže v visoko strokovno usposobljenem kadruter njegovem profesionalnem odnosu do klientov in ki je z dolgoletnimiizkušnjami v mednarodnem letalskem prometu produkt lastnega izobraževalnegain operativnega procesa;• odličnost, saj se zaradi lastnih izkušenj zavedamo, da so usposabljanje,izobraževanje in osebna odličnost temelj bodoče kariere letalskega osebja;• varnost, s tem da stalno delujemo v okvirih visokih varnostnih standardov innenehno obvladujemo tveganje;• odgovornost, ker se zavedamo pomembnosti odgovornega ravnanja vpovezavi z vsemi aktivnostmi, ki jih združuje letalska industrija;• dostopnost produktov, storitev, programov usposabljanja in naših inštruktorjev,predavateljev in ostalega osebja našim klientom;• zanesljivost, saj je storitev usposabljanja plod 30-letnih izkušenj v usposabljanjuletalskega osebja in 50-letnih izkušenj v mednarodnem zračnemprometu;• prilagodljivost, s katero se v največji možni meri prilagajamo potrebamkupcev;• celovitost programov usposabljanja, ki je ključnega pomena pri izbiri organizacijeusposabljanja s strani kupca, saj ena organizacija ponuja celotnousposabljanje na enem mestu pod isto streho.Danes imamo v Adrii Airwayspribližno 90 odstotkov pilotov,ki so svoje usposabljanje zapoklicnega pilota pridobiliali vsaj dopolnili v domačiletalski šoli. Lahko bi rekli,da je v poklicnem smisluAdria Airways letalska šola»zibelka« večine Adrijinihpilotov.V izobraževalni proces želimo vključiti kar največ sodobnih tehnoloških rešitevs tega področja, da bi zagotovili kar najvišjo možno kvaliteto naše storitve.Tej viziji sledimo z načrtom posodobitve vseh tehničnih sredstev šole, kamorsodijo tako novi sodobno opremljeni prostori kot tudi simulator, predvsem panova letala.Zavedamo se, kako pomembno je celovito in kvalitetno šolanje, ki že odosnovnega usposabljanja za zasebno pilotsko licenco temelji na filozofiji inpostopkih kasnejšega linijskega letenja. To vodilo smo upoštevali pri nakuputreh novih najsodobnejših šolskih letal PS-28 Cruiser, ki so opremljena s t. i.»Glass Cockpitom« – digitalnimi prikazovalniki podatkov o letu – ter z njihovopostavitvijo in načinom upravljanja najbliže tistemu na potniških letalih.Letala PS-28 Cruiser so sodobne in privlačne oblike, lahko upravljiva, hitra inodzivna, z odlično vidljivostjo iz kabine. Za osnovno šolanje so že na voljovsem interesentom, ki jih želijo najeti ali pridobiti zasebno pilotsko licenco.Ob nadaljevanju šolanja za poklicno licenco pa predstavljajo lahek prehod naupravljanje večjih letal.Vsa osnovna, profesionalna in tekoča usposabljanja izvajamo na lokacijiletališča na Brniku. Kadar je potrebno, se določena usposabljanja izvedejo naalternativnih lokacijah, kot v primeru Type Ratingov, kjer se odvija usposabljanjena lokaciji simulatorja letenja, ali v primeru izvedbe določenih programov izobraževanja,kjer se uporabljajo tudi ostala letališča v regiji in sosednjih državah.23

ADRIA AIRWAYSAdria Flight Career CentreAdria Airways Flight Schooltext: SANDI KNEZ, CEO and Accountable Manager of AFCC photography: Miro majcenThe Adria Airways Flight School celebrated its 32nd anniversary in September. Outwardly, the school does not possess anyof the attributes of a traditional school, but in essence its mission is the same: it has knowledgeable, experienced, qualifiedinstructors who are enthusiastic about sharing their knowledge with the younger generations.After a few years' gap in employing new pilots, the global aviation industry isnearing its greatest shortage of pilots yet. According to large companies suchas Boeing and Airbus, based on the submitted orders for new aeroplanes andthe planned retirement of professional pilots reaching retirement age, theglobal aviation industry will need over 460,000 new professional pilots by 2030.On average, that is more than 25,000 new pilots a year, 40% of which will beneeded in Asia. For people thinking of training to be a professional passengerplane pilot, there is no doubt that this is the right time to do it. At the sametime, this is also a great opportunity for organisations offering pilot training.At Adria, we recognised some time ago how important it is to offer planned,targeted pilot training from the very first step onwards. The Adria AirwaysFlight School was established in 1980in cooperation with the Faculty ofEngineering in Ljubljana. From its first moment onwards, the school's purposewas clear: to train pilots in small aeroplanes so they can obtain a professionallicence. The school was extremely successful until Slovenia gained itsindependence in 1991 and Adria suddenly found itself in a difficult economicsituation. The demand for new pilots reduced drastically. It is only thanks to theunwavering enthusiasm of a few individuals and their continued belief in theimportance of the school that the Adria Airways Flight School has continuedits work to the present day. On the way, it was transformed into an AdriaAirways subsidiary, now marketing its knowledge under a new brand name:Adria Flight Career Centre (AFCC). The school is situated at the Brnik airport – asuitable geographical location for the needs of the local market and an excellentbase for connections with regional markets such as the Balkans, as well asglobal markets such as West Europe, East Europe, the Middle East and others,since the Brnik airport already has well-established links to larger cities in thisand other regions.24

It is our vision for the AFCC to become one of the leading flight crew careercentres, both regionally and globally. Our plan is to develop into a flexible,responsive centre offering a comprehensive range of specific education andtraining in the field of aviation. Moreover, we want the AFCC to become acentre that connects the aviation industry's needs with the individuals whowant to work in it. We recognise that we can only achieve these plans throughquality, professional and accessible education and training programmes forpilots, cabin crew, flight dispatchers, mechanics, lecturers, etc. Our missionat the AFCC is to help flight crews attain the necessary professional skills andknowledge and to put them in contact with companies that are in need ofqualified human resources.Since the AFCC was established, we have been committed to this set of valueson which all our work is based:• a high level of expertise that comes through in our highly qualified staffand their professional attitude to clients; this expertise is a product ofour own process of education and operation, as well as of long years ofexperience in international air traffic;• excellence; we know from our own experience that training, educationand personal excellence are the best foundations for a future career inaviation;• safety; we operate in compliance with strict safety standards and placegreat emphasis on risk management;• responsibility; we recognise the importance of acting responsibly whenit comes to any activity within the aviation industry;• the accessibility of products, services, training programmes, instructors,lecturers and other staff to our clients;• reliability; our training services are based on 30 years of experience inflight crew training and 50 years of experience in international air traffic;• flexibility to our clients' needs whenever possible;• comprehensive training programmes; when it comes to clients choosinga training organisation, it is essential for a single organisation to offercomprehensive training services under one roof.We endeavour to integrate as many modern technological aviation solutionsas possible in the education process in order to offer the highest quality services.To keep up with our vision, we have drawn up a modernisation plan forthe school's technical resources, which includes newly renovated premises withthe latest equipment, a simulator and, most importantly, new aeroplanes.Some 90% of the pilots workingat Adria Airways today eithertrained as a professional pilotor complemented their trainingat the Adria Airways FlightSchool. You could say thatin a professional sense, theAdria Airways Flight School isthe birthplace of most Adriapilots.We recognise the importance of a comprehensive, quality education that isbased on the philosophy and procedures of airline flying even when it comesto basic training for a private pilot's licence. This is what guided us in the purchaseof three PS-28 Cruisers, the latest training planes equipped with a "glasscockpit" – digital flight data displays – as well as in choosing the configurationand piloting mode closest to those of passenger planes.The PS-28 Cruiser aeroplanes have a contemporary and attractive shape, theyare easily controlled, fast and responsive, with excellent visibility from the cockpit.The planes are already available for basic training for anyone looking torent them or obtain a private pilot's licence. For pilots who decide to continuetraining for a professional licence, it is easy to progress from the PS-28 Cruiserto larger planes.All basic, professional and current training is conducted at the Brnik airport. Ifnecessary, individual training sessions are conducted at alternative locations,e.g. in the case of type ratings, where training is conducted in a flight simulator,or in the case of specific training programmes that involve the use of otherairports in the region and neighbouring countries.25

UMETNOST IN KULTURA / ART & CULTURELJUBLJANAOd 7. do 18. novembra23. ljubljanski mednarodnifilmski festival LIFFeFrom 7 to 18 November23rd Ljubljana InternationalFilm Festival – LIFFeNa posameznih festivalskih prizoriščih v ljubljanskem Cankarjevemdomu, Kinodvoru, Kinu Komuna, Kinu Šiška, Slovenski kinotekiin v Koloseju Maribor si bodo vsi ljubitelji filma lahko žetriindvajsetič ogledali najboljše stvaritve evropske in svetovnefilmske produkcije.Filmi so razvrščeni po posameznih festivalskih sklopih: Perspektive souraden tekmovalni sklop mladih režiserjev za Mobitelovo nagradovodomec, Predpremiere predstavljajo filmske vrhunce, odkupljeneza predvajanje po Sloveniji, Kralji in kraljice so dela prepoznavnih innagrajevanih mojstrov sodobnega filma, v Panorami svetovnega filmaso festivalski favoriti s petih celin. Sledijo še Ekstravaganca, t. i. polnočnikino, ki prinaša raznovrstne, drznejše in žgečkljive vsebine, Retrospektiva,ki je letos posvečena zgodovini »filma ceste,« t. i. road-movies – filmom,ki neskončno cesto oziroma potovanje jemljejo kot metaforo za duhovnoočiščenje ali iniciacijsko dejanje –, potem Avtorska retrospektiva, ki seletos naslanja na opus francoskega režiserja Leosa Caraxa, ter Posvečeno,kratka, zgoščena predstavitev festivalsko in medijsko poudarjenegaavtorja, letos namenjena italijanskemu cineastu Matteu Garroneju, ki seje pred leti proslavil z Gomorro, letos pa je v Cannesu za najnovejši filmResničnost prejel veliko nagrado žirije. Kino-integral je sekcija, namenjenapregledu eksperimentalnega filma, in še Svet na kratko, tekmovalniprogram sodobnega kratkega filma. Za mladino od 7. do 14. leta jev okviru Kinobalona že četrtič pripravljen samostojen sklop filmov vsodelovanju s Kinodvorom.For the 23rd year in a row, film enthusiasts will be able to seethe best of European and world film production at festivalvenues in Ljubljana's Cankarjev dom, the cinemas Kinodvor,Kino Komuna, Kino Šiška and Slovenska kinoteka and inMaribor's Kolosej cinema.The festival has several categories: Perspectives is the official competitioncategory for Mobitel's Kingfisher Award for young directors, Avantpremierespresents the best of the films purchased for Slovenian distribution,Kings and Queens comprises films by the most lauded and renownedcontemporary filmmakers and World Film Panorama is the category forfestival favourites from all five continents. Then there is Extravagance,also known as "midnight cinema," for daring and titillating films of diversegenres; this year's Retrospective focuses on the history of road movies,films that use the road and travelling as a metaphor for spiritual catharsisor initiation; this year's Author Retrospective is dedicated to French directorLeos Carax, while this year's Focus – a brief, condensed introduction toa filmmaker at the focus of the festival and media attention – is centredon Italian filmmaker Matteo Garrone; some years ago, he made his namewith Gomorrah and he was awarded the Cannes Grand Prix for his latestfilm Reality in 2012. There is also Kino-Integral, dedicated to experimentalfilm, and World in Short, the competition category for contemporaryshort films. Meanwhile, for younger viewers from 7 to 14 years of age,there is the 4th Cinemaballoon, an independent programme sectionorganised in cooperation with Kinodvor.26

UMETNOST IN KULTURA / ART & CULTUREFotografija: Ciril JazbecFotografija: sara BanoLjubljana, oktober, november 2012Raznovrstni jesenski programina Ljubljanskem graduLjubljana, October, November 2012The Autumn Arts Programmes atthe Ljubljana CastleUmetniški programi na Ljubljanskem gradu se z jesenjo spetselijo v grajske dvorane. Nadaljuje se cikel koncertov »Zvokiklasike«, v okviru katerega bodo do konca leta na sporedu šetrije zanimivi koncerti: »Bele in črne tipke« s pianistko SonjoPahor, »Žlahtne strune« s harfistko Tino Žerdin ter »Božiču innovemu letu naproti« s Slovenskim oktetom.V okviru novega koncertnega cikla jazzovskih koncertov z naslovom»Boben in lajna na Ljubljanskem gradu 2012 – Mejniki« se bodopredstavili glasbeniki, ki trenutno vzbujajo med slovenskim občinstvomnajveč pozornosti na svojem področju. Oktobra in novembra bo nasporedu pet koncertov, ki jih bo zaokrožila priljubljena pevka NinaStrnad s svojim kvintetom.Koncertni cikel Jure Tori z gosti na Ljubljanskem gradu se v oktobrunadaljuje s četrtim koncertom cikla, na katerem bo nastopila skupinaOrlek, zaključuje pa se novembra s pestrim večerom, v katerem ne bomanjkalo presenečenj. Od knapovske robatosti do ljubezenske poezije.Vsi, ki se radi sprehodite po razstaviščih Ljubljanskega gradu, se bosterazveselili treh novih razstav: razstava zvoka Oko avtorja BoštjanaPerovška je na ogled v Peterokotnem stolpu; fotografsko razstavoLučke prihodnosti, ki prikazuje otroke in njihov vsakdan od obdobjamed obema svetovnima vojnama pa vse do začetka 90. let prejšnjegastoletja, si lahko ogledate v Galeriji »S«; slikarska razstava Nostalgieavtorja Ganija Llalloshija, ki je nedavno prejel grand prix na 47.piranskem mednarodnem slikarskem Ex-temporu, pa je v Kazematah.Pester program Pravljično-ustvarjalnih srečanj in Grajskih Miniustvarjalnic pa bo pričakal najmlajše obiskovalce gradu. Vabljeni.Podrobnejši spored teh in preostalih dogodkov na gradu najdete naspletni strani: www.ljubljanskigrad.si, dodatne informacije pa tudi v Infocentru na Ljubljanskem gradu (Tel.: 01/306 42 93).In the autumn, the arts programmes at the Ljubljana Castleare moving back into the castle halls. There are three moreconcerts set to take place as part of the Sounds of theClassics cycle before the end of the year: "Black and WhiteKeys" with pianist Sonja Pahor, "Precious Strings" with harpistTina Žerdin and "Towards Christmas and New Year" with TheSlovenian Octet.The new jazz series entitled The "Boben & Lajna" Concert Cycle at theLjubljana Castle 2012 – Milestones will see a series of concerts by the mostinteresting musicians in Slovenia at the moment. October and Novemberwill see five concerts, the last of which will be given by the popular singerNina Strnad and her five-piece band.The Jure Tori and Guests at the Ljubljana Castle cycle continues in Octoberwith the fourth concert in the series, which will see a concert by the bandOrlek. The cycle reaches its conclusion in November with a fun-filled eveningthat promises to be full of surprises. From the rough life of miners to thepoetry of love.If you are a regular visitor to the Ljubljana Castle exhibition spaces, you willbe happy to hear about three new exhibitions there: Boštjan Perovšek's sonicexhibition An Eye that Hears in the Pentagonal Tower; Lights of the Future, aphotography exhibition about children and their everyday life from the periodbetween the wars up to the early 1990s, in the S Gallery; and Nostalgie,an exhibition of paintings by Gani Llalloshi, who was recently awarded theGrand Prix at the 47th international Ex-tempore Piran, in the Casemate.And for the youngest visitors to the castle, there are the Fairytale CreativeMeetings and Castle Mini Workshops. Welcome!For more information on these and other events at the , visitwww.ljubljanskigrad.si. Information is also available at the Ljubljana CastleInfo Centre (phone: +386 1 306 42 93).27

UMETNOST IN KULTURA / ART & CULTUREMARIBOROd 16. do 26. oktobra47. Festival Borštnikovo srečanjeMaribor bo od 16. do 26. oktobra s festivalomBorštnikovo srečanje središče slovenskegledališke omike in prizorišče mednarodnihpovezovanj. Oko strokovne žirije bouprto v 12 tekmovalnih predstav, ki dokazujejo,da je slovenska gledališka pokrajinažanrsko močno raznovrstna. Festival bonajbogatejši doslej, prvič v zgodovini bokoproducent izjemnega glasbeno-gledališkegadogodka When the Mountain Changedits Clothing, ki ga režira sloviti nemškirežiser Heiner Göbbels v sodelovanju sKarmino Šilec in zborom Carmina Slovenica.V spremljevalnem programu bo svoj gledališkiizraz poleg 11 domačih predstavilo še 7mednarodnih provokativnih in nekonvencionalnihuprizoritev.Ob tem bo na sporedu še tako imenovani showcase zatuje gledališke kritike in direktorje festivalov. Programskisklop Fokus bo namenjen Češki; v slovenski knjižni izdajibodo predstavljene tri sodobne češke drame. Potekala bopetdnevna mednarodna delavnica za mlade profesionalnekritike, Društvo gledaliških režiserjev pa bo pripravilookroglo mizo.Festival je naravnan k čim večji širini in vključevanju vsehgeneracij, zato bo v času festivala na relaciji Ljubljana–Maribor–Ljubljana dnevno vozil festivalski avtobus, na voljopa bosta tudi dva gledališka abonmaja. Glavno prizoriščeostaja SNG Maribor, ker pa festival diha z mestom, bonekaj predstav tudi v drugih gledaliških prostorih, kot soLutkovno gledališče Maribor, Prva in Druga gimnazija,Vetrinjski dvor in Štuk, kjer bo ves čas festivala programAGRFT za mlade.28

UMETNOST IN KULTURA / ART & CULTUREFrom 16 to 26 October 201247thMariborTheatre FestivalWith the Maribor TheatreFestival taking place from 16 to26 October, Maribor will be atthe centre of Slovenian theatreculture and internationalcollaboration. This year'scompetition section will see 12shows, each of which makes animportant contribution to thediversity of Slovenian theatregenres. The most extensive festivalto date, the 47th Maribor TheatreFestival even acts as co-producerof the extraordinary musicaland theatrical event When theMountain Changed Its Clothing,directed by the renowned Germandirector Heiner Göbbels incollaboration with Karmina Šilecand the Carmina Slovenica choir.In addition to 11 Slovenian shows,the accompanying programmewill also see 7 provocative andunconventional internationalperformances.The festival also comprises a showcasefor foreign theatre critics and festivaldirectors. The Focus programme sectionis dedicated to the Czech Republic; threecontemporary Czech dramas will bepublished in Slovenian translation. Therewill be a 5-day international workshopfor young professional critics and a roundtable discussion organised by the TheatreDirectors' Association.As the festival aims to cater for all tastesand generations, there will be dailyfestival buses running from Ljubljana toMaribor and back and two theatre subscriptionsavailable. As always, the mainvenue is the Slovenian National TheatreMaribor; since the festival likes to keep intouch with the city, some performanceswill be held in other venues, such as theMaribor Puppet Theatre, Prva gimnazijaand Druga gimnazija schools, Vetrinjskidvor and Štuk, where the Academyof Theatre, Radio, Film and Televisionwill hold its youth programme eventsthroughout the festival.Ob 50-letnici festivalaSlovenske popevkein izidu knjigeVladimirja FrantarjaEnkrat še zapoj ...Prireditev Slovenska popevka praznuje letos50-letnico. Pogled v preteklost te prireditvenas navda z nostalgijo in spomini na zlataleta, ko so priznani mojstri slovenske besedenavdihovali glasbene ustvarjalce, ti pa sožlahtnost besede in glasbenega navdihaznali mojstrsko povezati z izbranimi solisti ininstrumentalisti. Prvič je bil festival prirejenleta 1962 v Festivalni dvorani na Bledu. Prvizmagovalec Slovenske popevke je bil StaneMancini s pesmijo Mandolina.Festival je doživel največjo priljubljenost v 60.in 70. letih. Govorimo celo o zlatem obdobjuslovenske popevke, ko so ugledale luč svetazimzelene popevke, kot so Orion, Mediskrenimi ljudmi, Poletna noč, Maček v žaklju inDan neskončnih sanj.V 80. letih je Slovenska popevka začelaizgubljati na pomenu in popularnosti. Leta1983 je bil prirejen še zadnji festival.Po petnajstih letih je RTV Slovenija festivalponovno oživila; leta 1998 so Slovenskopopevko znova priredili v Križankah vLjubljani. Na okroglo obletnico v letošnjemletu se je Slovenska popevka oglasila vseptembru iz operne hiše v Ljubljani.V počastitev tega prestižnega festivala je prizaložbi Celjska Mohorjeva družba izšla knjiga znaslovom »Enkrat še zapoj …«, ki jo je napisalVladimir Frantar.V knjigi se prvič v zgodovini ponuja vslovenščini seznam vseh pesmi, njihovihavtorjev in izvajalcev, ki so nastopili naodru Slovenske popevke v njeni 50-letnizgodovini. Vladimir Frantar je s pomočjomnogih ljudi, ki so aktivno ali pasivnospremljali festival, in njihovih osebnih arhivovuspešno rekonstruiral zlasti zgodnejša letafestivala. Knjiga je opremljena tudi z izvlečki izčasopisov iz posameznih obdobij in portreti 75ustvarjalcev Popevke, kar knjigi doda posebnodokumentarno vrednost. Knjiga je opremljenaz odličnimi fotografijami Edija Šelhausa inMarjana Cigliča iz Muzeja novejše zgodovine.The 50th anniversary ofSlovenian Song andthe publication ofVladimir Frantar's bookSing Sing Once More ...In 2012, the Slovenian Song competitioncelebrates its 50th anniversary. A look into thecompetition's past inspires feelings of nostalgiaand brings back memories of the golden era – atime when lyrics were written by renownedmasters of the written word, music was composedby celebrated composers and songs wereperformed by inspired combinations of carefullyselected soloists and musicians.The very first festival was held in 1962 in Bled'sFestival Hall. The first Slovenian Song winner wasStane Mancini with the song Mandolina.The festival saw its heyday in the 1960s and1970s. The period could arguably be called thegolden age of the Slovenian popular song, withreleases of such ever-popular songs as Orion,Med iskrenimi ljudmi, Poletna noč, Maček vžaklju and Dan neskončnih sanj.In the 1980s, the Slovenian Song contest rapidly fellfrom popularity and the festivals stopped after 1983.Fifteen years later, RTV Slovenia brought thefestival back: in 1998, the Slovenian Song contestwas held in Križanke, Ljubljana. For this year's biganniversary, Slovenian Song was heard in theLjubljana Opera in September.In a tribute to the prestigious festival, the CeljskaMohorjeva družba publishing house published "SingOnce More...", a book written by Vladimir Frantar.For the first time in history, the book, written inSlovenian, brings together a list of all the songs,their authors and performers who took part in theSlovenian Song contest throughout its 50 years.With the help of many people who have beenactively or passively involved in the festival overthe years and who have shared their personalarchives with the author, Vladimir Frantar wasable to reconstruct even the earliest years of thefestival. The book is given added documentaryvalue by newspaper extracts from various periodsand portraits of 75 Slovenian Song creators. "SingOnce More..." contains fantastic photographs byEdi Šelhaus and Marjan Ciglič, contributed by theNational Museum of Contemporary History.29

UMETNOST IN KULTURA / ART & CULTUREKRANJOd 26. do 29. oktobraNOČ ČAROVNIC ZAOTROKEZavod za turizem Kranj organiziraprireditev Noč čarovnic v Rovih podstarim Kranjem. Zaradi vsakoletnegaizjemnega zanimanja smo se letosodločili, da bomo pripravili še večpredstav, na katerih bodo otrocipremagovali strah pred živalmi, se družilis čarovnicami, čarali v čarovniškemlaboratoriju, kjer bodo skupaj s čarovnicopričarali tudi čarobne kamenčke»Ničmenistrah«, se po temnih delih rovovsprehodili z lučkami, na koncu pa jim bočarovnica pričarala tudi pravljico. Vsakdan bodo organizirane štiri predstave,ki sprejmejo do 60 obiskovalcev zatopriporočamo vnaprejšnjo rezervacijo. Zaveč informacij: Zavod za turizem Kranj,tel: 04/238 04 50 ali 040/664-015.From 26 to 29 OctoberHALLOWEEN FORKIDSThe Kranj Tourist Board is organising anotherHalloween event in the tunnels below theold part of Kranj.Since the event has provedextremely popular, this year there will be evenmore opportunities for children to conquertheir fear of animals, meet witches, try theirhand at magic in the magic laboratorywhere a witch will help them conjure up theirown "I'mnotscared" pebbles, walk along thedark tunnels with headlamps and finallyend the day with a story conjured up by thewitch. There will be four events organisedevery day; each event is limited to 60 people,so advance booking is recommended. Formore information: Tourist Board Kranj,phone: +386 4 238 04 50 or +386 40 664 015.Od 16. 18. novembraVINSKA POT V ROVIHPOD STARIM KRANJEMV Rovih pod starim Kranjem bo tokrat žepeto leto zapored organizirana Vinska pot.V največji »kranjski kleti« se bodo na večkot 1.300 metrih predstavili vinarji iz skorajvseh slovenskih vinorodnih pokrajin. Letosbo trajal program tri dni, in sicer od petka,16., do nedelje, 18. novembra. V rovih bopoleg degustacije vrhunskih vin poskrbljenoza izvrstno kulinariko s predstavitvijo inokušanjem sirov, suhih mesnin, kranjskeklobase, peciv in kruha, s prav posebnimidobrotami pa bodo navduševali Rokovnačiiz Besnice. Za dobro razpoloženje bo vsedni skrbela glasbena skupina, Vinsko pot pabo obiskala tudi vinska kraljica. V preteklihštirih letih se je Gorenjcem predstavilo že večkot 60 različnih vinarjev iz vseh vinorodnihpodročij Slovenije, prireditev pa letno obiščeveč kot 2.000 ljubiteljev vinske kapljice inodlične kulinarike.From 16 to 18 NovemberWINE WALK IN THETUNNELS BELOW OLDKRANJFor the fifth consecutive year, a Wine Walk will beheld in the tunnels below the old part of Kranj.Wine-makers from most of Slovenia's wine-growingregions will present their wares in the 1300metres of Kranj's largest "cellar". This year's WineWalk takes place over three days, from Friday, 16November, to Sunday, 18 November. In additionto the tasting of fine wines, there will be foodin the tunnels as well, with presentations andtastings of cheeses, dry meat products, Carniolansausages, pastries and bread, as well as specialtreats provided by the Rokovnači iz Besniceassociation. There will be live music every day ofthe festival and the Wine Walk will also see a visitfrom the Wine Queen. In the past four years, thiswine festival in the Gorenjska region has hostedover 60 wine-makers from every wine-growing regionin Slovenia; the festival is visited by over 2000food and wine enthusiasts every year.Od 23. do 25. novembraRAZSTAVA ADVENTNIH VENČKOVAdvent je čas, ko začnemo razmišljati o pripravah na praznovanja predprihodom novega leta. V Kranju se zato že nekaj let zapored odvijaprodajna razstava adventnih venčkov v rovih, kjer so predstavljeni trendiin novosti prazničnih aranžmajev, novoletnih okraskov, unikatnih izdelkovin drobnega darilnega programa. Vsak dan posebej odlikuje tudi pesterspremljevalni program.From 23 to 25 NovemberADVENT WREATH EXHIBITIONThe Advent is the season when we start thinking about preparing for the endof year celebrations. For several years now, Kranj has been holding sales exhibitionsof advent wreaths in the tunnels below the old town. The exhibitionalso includes the latest trends in festive decorations, Christmas tree decorations,one-of-a-kind products and small gifts. On top of that, every day of theexhibition also sees a range of events from the entertainment programme.30

Izberiteučinkovitejšeposlovanje.Programskaoprema, podporaposlovanju in šemnogo več.Odločite se za poslovne rešitve Popolne pisarne!6,95 €/mesecGoogle Aplikacijeza poslovne uporabnike5,95 €/mesecMicrosoftLync1,8 €/mesecAll Hours3,95 €/mesecPamFaxMikro21,00 €/mesecShopamineSpletno mestoTelefonija Internet Poslovne rešitve NapravePopolna pisarnawww.simobil.si/popolna pisarnaCene storitev so zgolj informativne narave in vključujejo DDV. Poslovne rešitve so na voljo le pravnim osebam in samostojnim podjetnikom posameznikom. Za uporaboposlovnih rešitev je treba izpolnjevati določene minimalne tehnične pogoje in nato skleniti pogodbo z družbo Si.mobil, d. d. Za uporabo poslovnih rešitev veljajoSplošni in Posebni pogoji, s katerimi se mora stranka predhodno seznaniti in strinjati. Več informacij na www.simobil.si/popolnapisarna.

UMETNOST IN KULTURA / ART & CULTUREMünchen, Muzej BrandhorstHIROSHISUGIMOTO:REVOLUCIJAOd 25. oktobra 2012 do10. februarja 2013Med paradoksi, povezanimi sfotografijo kot medijem, je tudidejstvo, da opazovalec neprestanopreskakuje med opazovanjemupodobljenega motiva ter estetskimobčudovanjem in obratno.V nasprotju z drugimi se HiroshiSugimoto, eden najbolj znanihumetnikov našega časa, posvečarazličnim vidikom medija, ki jihjasno upodablja v svojih impresivnihserijah fotografij. V vsaki serijise običajno osredotoča samo naen motiv: dioramam so sledilekinodvorane, morski pogledi,t. i. omare groze, arhitekturnefotografije, portreti, borovci, konceptualneoblike in drugi motivi.Za majhne razstavne prostorev Muzeju Brandhorst je Sugimotorazvil poseben koncept.Razstava z naslovom Revolucijabo postavljena v obliki velikoformatnihnočnih fotografij morja, kidaljše obdobje sledijo poti Lune.S pomočjo posebne postavitve– slike so nagnjene za 90° – jedosežen nenavaden učinek, ki semočno spreminja glede na delsveta oz. zemljepisno širino, kjerje bila fotografija posneta. Serijadel, s katerimi se umetnik ukvarjaže precej dolgo, bo javnosti prvičpredstavljena v Münchnu.www.museum-brandhorst.deAmsterdamVincent: MuzejVan Gogh vHermitaguAmsterdamOd 29. septembra 2012 do25. aprila 2013Začasna selitev Muzeja Van Goghv Hermitage Amsterdam je odličnapriložnost, da odkrijete delaVincenta van Gogha na povsemnov način. V potujoči zbirki lahkoobčudujete van Goghova delav drugačnem kontekstu. Poleg75 pomembnih slik so razstavljenatudi pisma, risbe in drugipredmeti, ki vam omogočajo, dasledite Vincentovi osebni poti donjegovega umetniškega bistvain pri tem odkrivate teme, ki jihje upodabljal.www.vangoghmuseum.nlBeograd57. Beograjskiknjižni sejemOd 21. do 28. oktobra 2012Mednarodna prireditev, na katerizaložbe in knjigarne na dveh sejmihpredstavljajo knjige srbskih intujih založb. Vključene so knjige,ki so jih izdali razstavljavci, pa tudiantikvarne knjige. Poseben sklopje posvečen predstavitvi države,ki je uradna gostja sejma. Promocija:Beogradski sajam.www.beogradskisajamknjiga.com27. Beograjskifestival jazzaOd 25. do 28. oktobra 201227. Beograjski festival jazzaponuja izjemen predogledmednarodne jazzovske koncertnesezone in nas seznanja znajpomembnejšimi novostmi vtem glasbenem žanru.Poleg koncertov kitarskih legend,kot je Pat Metheny, ki bo odprlfestival, bodo poslušalci lahkouživali v jazzu tudi v intimnejšemvzdušju beograjskega Domaomladine, kulturnega centra,ki prireja najstarejši in največjifestival jazza v Srbiji že vse od leta1971. Festival posveča posebnopozornost domačim umetnikom– letos bodo proslavili 80. rojstnidan Duška Gojkovića, najuspešnejšegasrbskega jazzovskegaumetnika. V okviru festivala bodonastopila nekatera največja imenasodobnega jazza – od legend,kot sta Charles Lloyd in JoachimKuhn, fantastičnih umetnikovsrednje generacije, kot so StefanoBollani, Marc Ribot, CristineBranco in Elliot Sharp, do bodočihzvezdnikov, kot sta Tigran Hamasyanin Anat Fort. Širok razponustvarjalnosti in nešteto razlogov,da preživite zabaven konec tednana potovanju skozi sodobnejazzovske trende.Slogan »Tudi ti si jazz« simbolizirapovezanost festivala z občinstvom,s katerim je tudi sam rasel.Po eni strani se slogan poklanjasvobodi, ki nam jo daje jazz, da sivsak izbere svojo interpretacijo,po drugi strani pa zvestemuobčinstvu, brez katerega festivalseveda ne bi obstajal.www.belgrade-jazzfest.orgKöbenhavnMatisse –Dvojniki invariacijeDo 28. oktobra 2012Razstava ponuja edinstvenopriložnost za ogled širokegaizbora Matissovih del v serijah inparih; gre za dela, ki so le redkorazstavljena skupaj.V sodelovanju s pariškim CentromPompidou in newyorškimMetropolitanskim muzejemumetnosti je danska Narodnagalerija zbrala raznovrsten naborMatissovih najboljših slik.Razstava se osredotoča naMatissov sistematični način dela zmetodo ponavljanja. Vedno znovase je vračal k motivom, ki jihje že upodobil, in spet preverjalnjihov potencial. Pri ponovnemupodabljanju je menjal barve inslikarske tehnike.Razstava pokriva vse najpomembnejšefaze v umetnikovem razvoju,saj sega izbor del od l. 1900, ko seje Matissova metoda začela oblikovati,pa vse do poznih 40-ih let20. stoletja, ko je njegovo slikanjedoseglo vrhunec.www.smk.dkBruseljPrincesa Marie-José – medBelgijo in ItalijoKraljevska garderobaMuzej Cinquantenaire (Kraljevimuzeji umetnosti in zgodovine)Od 3. oktobra 2012 do 3. marca2013Savojski dvorMarie-José (1906–2001) je bilahči belgijskega kralja Alberta I. inkraljice Elizabete. Pod vplivomsvoje matere je princesa odraslav izredno prefinjenem okolju,naklonjenem glasbi in umetnosti.Po poroki z italijanskim prestolonaslednikomUmbertom l. 1930se je morala prilagoditi glamuroznemu,vendar okorelemudvoru v fašističnem okolju, ki jebil daleč od vrednot belgijskegadvora. To dvojnost odsevajo tudinjena prestižna oblačila, ki so bilaanahronistična v smislu ritualnosti,obenem pa so se skladala spropagandističnimi idejami 30-ihlet prejšnjega stoletja.Kraljevska garderobaPrestolonaslednik je svoji ženipodaril več nepredstavljivo razkošnihvečernih oblek in dvornihplaščev, ki so jih ročno izvezli vitalijanskih hišah visoke mode.Lepa in vitka princesa je hitropostala ikona ženske elegance v30-ih letih prejšnjega stoletja.Blišč in politikaRazstava obuja blišč tega obdobjain ga umešča v čas, ko je bilzunanji videz del politične strategije.Prej neobjavljene fotografijein arhivski dokumenti pomagajoprikazovati zapletenost tega časain pot, po kateri se je v njem odvijalorazgibano življenje princeseMarie-José. Pri štiridesetih letihje morala zapustiti državo in sepodati v izgnanstvo.Za izvedbo razstave sta poskrbelaUmberto II. in Fundacija Marie-JoséSavojske. Razstavo pod pokroviteljstvomkraljice Paole sponzoriraNarodna fundacija Marie-José.www.brusselsmuseums.be32

UMETNOST IN KULTURA / ART & CULTUREMünchen, Museum BrandhorstHIROSHISUGIMOTO.REVOLUTION25.10.2012 - 10.02.2013It is one of the paradoxes of themedium of photography that theviewer continuously switches froma perception of the motif presentedto an aesthetic appreciation andvice versa. Unlike virtually anybodyelse, Hiroshi Sugimoto, one of thebest-known artists of our times,reflects on and clearly shows variousaspects of the medium in his impressiveseries of pictures in which hegenerally focuses on one subject. Hisdioramas were followed by cinemas,seacapes, cabinets of horrors,architectural pictures, portraits, pinetrees, conceptual shapes and othermotifs. Sugimoto has developed atailor-made concept for the smallexhibition rooms in the MuseumBrandhorst. Under the heading“Revolution”, this will take the formof large-format pictures of the seaat night that trace the movement ofthe moon over a long period. Thanksto their special presentation – thepictures being tilted 90° – a puzzlingeffect is achieved that varies considerablydepending on the region inthe world or the latitude. This groupof works which the artist has beenworking on for some time, will bepresented to the public for the firsttime in Munich.www.museum-brandhorst.deAmsterdam,Vincent. TheVan GoghMuseum in theHermitageAmsterdam29 September 2012 - 25 April 2013The Van Gogh Museum's temporarystay at the Hermitage Amsterdam isan opportunity to discover the workof Vincent van Gogh in an entirelynew way. Admire works by Vincentvan Gogh from tour collection ina new context. This presentationof some 75 important paintings,combined with letters, drawings andobjects, allows you to follow Vincenton his personal quest to the heart ofhis artistic being, while exploring thethemes of his art.www.vangoghmuseum.nlBelgradeThe 57.Belgrade BookFair21 October 2012 – 28 October 2012The international event of bookpublishers and bookstores presentingdomestic publishing productionof domestic and foreign publishersbetween two fairs. The overall publishingproduction of the exhibitorsand antiquary books. Separateschedule ensemble is presentation ofthe country – the official guest of theFair. Promoted by "Belgrade Fair".www.beogradskisajamknjiga.comThe 27thBelgrade JazzFestival25.10.2012. – 28.10.2012The 27th Belgrade Jazz Festivalpresents the best preview of theinternational jazz concert season,updating us on the most importantnew tendencies in the genre.Side by side with listening to guitarstars like Pat Metheny, who will beopening the festival, you will beable to get acquainted with jazzin a more intimate atmosphere inDom omladine Belgrade, a culturalcentre that’s been organizing thisoldest and most prominent Serbianjazz festival since 1971. We dedicatespecial attention to domestic artists- on this year’s BJF, we will becelebrating the 80th birthday of themost successful domestic jazz artistDusko Gojkovic. Our guests willinclude some of the biggest namesof contemporary jazz – from legendslike Charles Lloyd and JoachimKuhn, via the fantastic artists of themiddle generation Stefano Bollani,Marc Ribot, Cristine Branco andElliot Sharp, to future stars like TigranHamasyan and Anat Fort. A varietyof creativeness and a million reasonsto spend a fun weekend on a journeythrough current jazz trends.The slogan “Jazz Is You” is a symbolof the unity of the festival and thepublic, with who we ourselves havegrown. On the one hand, it presentsa tribute to the freedom jazz givesus, letting everyone define it forthemselves. On the other hand, thisyear’s slogan pays tribute to theloyal public without who the festivalwouldn’t even exist.www.belgrade-jazzfest.orgCopenhagenMatisse -Doubles andVariationsUntil 28.10.2012The exhibition offers a uniqueopportunity to view an extensiveselection of Matisse art in seriesand pairs; works that are only rarelyexhibited together.In collaboration with the CentrePompidou in Paris and the MetropolitanMuseum of Art in New York,the National Gallery of Denmark hasbrought together a wide range ofMatisse’s best paintings.The exhibition focuses on how Matissewould work systematically withrepetition as a method. He repeatedlyreturned to subject matter hehad previously addressed, testing itspotential yet again. As he repeatedsuch subjects he would vary thecolours and techniques employed.The exhibition presents all the majorphases of the artist’s developmentwith a selection of works that spansthe full range from Matisse’s productionaround 1900, when his methodfirst took shape, to the late 1940swhen he reached a final pinnaclewith his painting.www.smk.dkBrusselsPrincess Marie-José - BetweenBelgium andItalyA Royal WardrobeCinquantenaire Museum (RoyalMuseums of Art and History)03.10.2012 – 03.03.2013The Court of SavoyMarie-José (1906-2001) was thedaughter of King Albert I and QueenElisabeth of Belgium. Under theinfluence of her mother, this princessgrew up in a highly refined artlovingand musical milieu. In 1930,she married the Italian Crown PrinceUmberto, which required adaptingto a glittering, but rigid, court in afascist environment, far removedfrom the values of the Belgian court.This duality was reflected in herprestigious wardrobe, which wasboth anachronistic in terms of ritualand in line with the propagandistideas of the 1930s.A royal wardrobeThe Crown Prince gave his wifeevening dresses and court coats ofunprecedented luxury, hand-embroideredby Italian haute-couturehouses. Comely and slim, shebecame an icon of female elegancein the 1930s.Glamour and politicsThis exhibition evokes the glamorousworld of those years, placing itin a time when appearance was afacet of political strategy. Unpublishedphotographs and archivedocumentation help to illustrate thecomplexities of that period and thecourse that the turbulent life of thisprincess took during it. At the ageof forty, she found herself obliged toleave the country and go into exile.The exhibition owes its realizationto the Umberto II and Marie-José ofSavoy Foundation. It is sponsored bythe Marie-José National Foundationand is under the Gracious patronageof Queen Paola.www.brusselsmuseums.be33

USTVARJAMONAJLEPŠETRENUTKERadgonske gorice d.d. | Jurkovičeva 5 | 9250 Gornja Radgona Mediazoo | AD Robert TurkMinister za zdravje opozarja: Prekomerno pitje alkohola škoduje zdravju.

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ADRIJIN POTNIKveličastno arhitekturo, mostove, palače ter vrvež skrivnostnih ulic. Slika je postalapopolna, ko sem se srečal z vonjem mesta, ki ga je prinesel veter, ter segel v rokeprijateljem. Kljub temu, da teh ljudi že dolgo nisem srečal, sem imel občutek, dasmo sodelovali ne dolgo nazaj. Prijatelji so mi po pogovoru rekli, da skoraj nemorejo verjeti, da ne vidim, saj sem popolnoma enak, z isto energijo in mimiko.Ali so podobe, dotik in vonj dobili nov pomen?Vonjam intenzivneje, dotik je postal nepogrešljiv. Močni vonji, kot recimo različniparfumi, so postali neprijetni. Raje se osredotočim na vonj posameznika, to jepristnejše in mi pomaga ustvariti sliko. Če kaj pogrešam, so to podobe. Ko greš vkavarno, opazuješ ljudi, kako so oblečeni, kako se vedejo. Pogrešam tudi neverbalnokomunikacijo; tisto, česar ti ni bilo treba povedati, a si s pogledom razumel vse.Vse to si moram pričarati preko besed, pogovora, vonja, dotikov. Bistvo nečesa seosredotoči v dotiku, dotik pomeni stik, pretok informacij, pomaga ustvariti sliko. Tolahko ponazorim z naslednjim primerom: pri branju knjige si vsakdo predstavljajunake po svoje, tako si tudi jaz z zbranimi informacijami ustvarim svojo sliko. Neboste verjeli, veliko slik je skoraj identičnih z realno podobo, kar mi povedo drugi.Obdobje, odkar ne vidim, zame ne pomeni, da ga ni bilo; imam ustvarjen filmkot takrat, ko sem še videl. Ko se včasih pogovarjam s prijatelji o kakem dogodku,se zavem, da imam o njem ustvarjeno sliko, kot da bi takrat celotno dogajanjez očesom posnel, a se šele potem zavem, da takrat nisem videl. In potem celoprijatelji pripomnijo, kako slikovito se česa spominjam.Kako si v življenju pričarate barve?Obožujem barve, izjemno. Ko pomislim na Indijo, vidim vse te svetleče vzorce,Indija je dežela barv, pa recimo Brazilija, odtenki rumene in zelene. Nekoč semvidel, to je pomemben element, zato si barve lahko pričaram, še zlasti si jihpričaram preko vonja. Ko zavoham kavo, se mi pričara rjava barva, in ko spomladipo košnji zavoham sveže pokošeno travo, se mi pričara intenzivna zelena.Odvisno od tega, kakšen je ta zunanji impulz, in od vonja. Kot na morju, borovci,modrina morja. Moj svet je barven, vse, o čemer razmišljam, je v barvah. In ševedno so vse barve izjemno intenzivne. Tudi vsaka dežela ima zame svojo barvo,Španija je povezana z rdečo, Maroko je rdečkasto rjav.Izraz »ekološko« ima za vas poseben pomen, postal je vašživljenjski stil.Izraz »ekološko« ni postal le moj življenjski stil, temveč tudi moj največji osebnicilj. Postaja dobrina, česar pa se ljudje še ne zavedajo. Žalostno sprejemamdejstvo, da bo verjetno že čez 10 let nemogoče zaužiti nekaj, kar bomo lahkopoimenovali »ekološko«. Želim si, da bi Slovenija postala nekakšen »ecoland«, inverjamem, da lahko z ustreznim ozaveščanjem in aktivnostmi to tudi uresničimo.Tako smo ustanovili Pro Organiko in jo poimenovali »kultura prehrane in bivanja«.Ekološko pridelani izdelki so nosilci vitalne energije in delujejo na človekain okolje regenerativno. Tako pridelani izdelki so z okoljem v simbiozi in ga podokončani rasti ne opustošijo.Dotakniva se še tehnologije, ki slepim in slabovidnim lajša vsakdan.Tehnološki dosežki mi dajejo upanje. Tehnologija me povezuje s svetom. Preteklimesec so prvi osebi vgradili nano kamero (t. i. bionic eye), ki ji je povrnila nekajodstotkov vida, ti odstotki pa se bodo v naslednjih letih z razvojem še povečevali.Pametni telefoni so že tako prilagojeni, da omogočajo skoraj nemotenouporabo in večino funkcionalnosti, kakršne uporabljajo ljudje, ki vidijo. Poleg telefonaredno uporabljam diktafon, kamor si prenesem zvočne knjige. Tako lahkoše vedno rečem, da veliko »berem«. Brez težav uporabljam tablične in namizneračunalnike, ki mi s pomočjo zvoka omogočajo njihovo uporabo.42

ADRIA PASSENGERTEXT: Alen Mlekuž, MSc Photography: nina bučuk, archive of Alen KobilicaAlen Kobilica >>Slovenia'sbest known modelHe was Slovenia's best known model who worked withsome of the world's most renowned high fashiondesigners and brands; then, in late 2008, Alen Kobilicalost his sight. He decided to turn his disability intoan advantage. He focused on new goals and broughtthe richness of colours back into his life.You say that you entered a period of transition four years agowhen your other senses began to overtake your eyesight. Itmade you a different person, and you were able to turn your disabilityinto an advantage. "I see the goal." What is your goal?I can't really say that I became a different person, but obviously myoutlook on life has changed. I took this development as a challengeto do something more, to do something new with my life. I'm gainingnew experience. Whether you have sight or not, you should always havecertain goals in life. Even when I was in hospital, I tried to find ways tomake the most of my time; I asked friends to bring me language learningCDs. Then I got in touch with the Association for the Blind and PartiallySighted in Ljubljana and learnt that there are sports opportunities – eventhe Paralympics. I also learnt that some countries have dedicated sportscentres for blind and partially sighted athletes and even for children.Being a Faculty of Sports graduate, I decided to establish "I see the goal",a centre encouraging the blind to stay physically active and do sportsregularly, be it on a professional or merely a recreational level. SinceNovember 2011, the centre offers organised swimming and skiing activities;in the future, we also plan to cover other sports such as running,climbing and cycling.Throughout your life, you have always had a passion for sports.What are your outlets for it now?Sports have always been and continue to be an important part of my life;it's like a catharsis that cleanses and fulfils me. I am now actively preparingfor the 2014 Winter Paralympics in Sochi, Russia, where I hope to qualifyfor Alpine skiing. At the same time, I will continue preparing for the 2016Summer Paralympics in Rio de Janeiro, where my hope is to qualify forswimming. The challenge for me is to come back to all the sports I didbefore and find a new way to keep succeeding in them. There have been somany aids and devices developed, ranging from simple to high technology,to help blind and partially sighted people compete as equals. Butthere are still certain sports that we are not fully capable of participating insuch as volleyball, tennis or basketball. At the moment, I'm devoting mostof my energy to swimming, skiing, cycling and running; in September, forinstance, I competed very successfully in the Bled triathlon.43

ADRIA PassengerYou are enamoured with life. Everyone can feel it – everyone whoknows you or who is walking your new path with you. That was howthe film entitled Walking on Water came to be made.I was approached by director Marko Bratuš and producer Jani Sever, who wereinspired by my story to make a film about my life after the occurrence fouryears ago; they called it Walking on Water. They wanted to show the worldhow I face new challenges and maybe make an example for other people goingthrough a trying time in their lives.I said to myself that even if Ihelp one person to take his orher first steps, we will havesucceeded – but in the end, weachieved so much more. The filmhas been raising awareness ofthe fact that blind and partiallysighted people can enjoy thesame quality of life as sightedpeople. Moreover, the film hashad a positive effect on otherpeople, giving them renewedrespect for their own lives.I took the film crew along to meet many of my business partners and friends inMalaga, Berlin, Split, Paris and Milan. The film was released in June and has alsobeen broadcast on Slovenian TV.You achieved international success as a model and you continueto run a modelling agency today. What did it feel like to meet yourfriends and acquaintances in Paris and Milan and, for the first time,not be able to see them?It was emotional, relaxing and inspiring. It was my first visit to Paris since I lost mysight; with the help of my friends' descriptions, I was able to envisage the majesticarchitecture, bridges, palaces and the hustle and bustle of mysterious streets. Thepicture was complete when I sensed the smell of the city in the wind and shookthe hands of my friends. Even though it had been a long time since I had last metwith them, it felt like we had worked together just recently. After talking to me, myfriends said they could hardly believe that I really couldn't see, because I seemedcompletely the same as before, with the same energy and facial expressions.Have images, touches and smells taken on a new meaning for you?My sense of smell is much stronger now and my sense of touch is indispensable.I have grown to dislike intense scents such as perfumes. I prefer to focus onthe real scent of a person – it is more genuine and helps me to form a mentalimage. If there is anything I miss, it is images. Sitting in a cafe and watchingother people, their clothes, their behaviour. I also miss non-verbal communication– things that didn't need to be said and could be understood with a singleglance. Now I have to envisage all of it through words and conversations,44

ADRIA Passengerthrough my sense of smell and touch. The essence of something is focusedin the touch – a touch means contact, starts the flow of information andhelps me to form an image. Here is an example to illustrate it. When readinga book, everyone forms their own image of the characters; that is how I usethe information available to create my own image. You wouldn't believe howmany times people have told me that these images are virtually identical tothe real thing.It is not as if the period since I have lost my sight has never happened – in mymind, I have a film of everything, just like when I could still see. Sometimeswhen I'm talking to friends about something that happened, I realise that Ihave a complete image of it as if I had recorded the whole thing with my eyes,and it takes me a moment to remember that I had not actually been able tosee it. Even my friends are surprised by how vividly I remember things.How do you conjure up colours in your life?I love colours; I just adore them. When I think of India, I see a riot of shiningpatterns; India is a land of colours and so is Brazil, for example – I see shades ofyellow and green. I used to be able to see and that is an important element. Itmeans that I am now able to conjure up colours, especially through my sense ofsmell. When I smell coffee, I see brown; when I smell freshly mown grass in spring,I can envisage an intense shade of green. It depends on the external impulse, onthe scent. At the seaside, for instance, there are pine trees and the blueness of thesea. My world is in colour; everything I think about it is in colour. And all of thesecolours have retained their intensity. To me, each country has its own colour aswell – I associate Spain with red and Morocco with a reddish brown.The word "organic" has a special meaning for you; it has become apart of your lifestyle."Organic" is more than just my lifestyle – it is my biggest personal goal. Peoplehave not realised it yet, but organic food is becoming a luxury. It is sad buttrue that as soon as ten years from now, it will probably be impossible tofind food that we could still call organic. My hope is for Slovenia to becomea sort of "Ecoland"; I am convinced that this is something we can achieve ifwe raise enough awareness and organise appropriate activities. To this end,we founded Pro Organika for the culture of eating and living. Organicallyproduced products are sources of vital energy; they have a restorative effect onpeople and the environment. These products are in harmony with nature andtheir growth is not harmful to the environment.Let's touch on the technology that makes life easier for blind andpartially sighted people.Technological developments give me hope. Technology keeps me connectedwith the world. Last month saw the first person in the world being fitted witha nano camera (what is known as a bionic eye) to restore a small percentageof vision. This percentage will increase in the future as the technology isdeveloped further. Modern smartphones have been adapted for use to such anextent that they offer virtually uninterrupted usage and most functions thatare available to sighted people. In addition to my phone, I also regularly usea dictaphone, which I can use to listen to audiobooks. So I can still say that I"read" a lot. I am also easily able to use tablet and desktop computers with thehelp of sound technology.45

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!Adria leti na liniji LJUBLJANA&MUNCHEN3-KRAT DNEVNO»Ne hodi nikamor drugam … nič sene more primerjati z Münchnom.Vse drugo v Nemčiji je zapravljanječasa,« je leta 1923 vzkliknilErnest Hemingway.fotografije: Blaž zupančičTretje največje nemško mesto že skoraj stoletje po tem vzkliku ohranja svojo privlačnost tako med Nemci kot med obiskovalcibavarske prestolnice. Nenavadna mešanica sodobnega mestnega vrveža in alpske romantike privablja turiste vseleto. München ostaja veliko kulturno središče Evrope z neprekosljivo zbirko muzejev in z zapeljivimi posebnostmi, kot somodro-rumeni tramvaji, bulvarji z drevoredi, vodnjaki, parki, kavarne na ulicah, velike pivnice in pivski vrtovi. Pivo nasplohigra v mestu pomembno vlogo, münchenske pivovarne so pomemben gospodarski dejavnik, mesto pa je znano tudi kotsredišče modne in filmske industrije.47

destinacija mÜnchenAdrijin pilot Andrej Ropretpogosto prihaja v München,največkrat po službenidolžnosti, včasih pa sivzame čas in pride vmesto s kakšnim posebnimnamenom.S polnimi vrečkami iz MünchnaVse se začne že v petek zvečer, ko dvigujem mobilni telefon inodgovarjam, da danes pa res ne morem nikamor, saj grem zjutrajv shopping … Sledi sekundo dolg premor in pregovarjanje, dase bom v nakupovalni center pač odpravil ob 12h, ko se bomprebudil po nepozabni noči. »Ne, ne razumeš, moram vstati že ob4.50, ko boste vi ravno čakali na taksi sredi Ljubljane.«Ko me tako prezgodaj za soboto zjutraj prebudi budilka, razmišljam,kako bi bilo krasno odspati še nekaj uric, a me hitro prešine misel,da je pred mano spet en zanimiv dan. In res …Začne se že s pogledom na prelepo Gorenjsko s Triglavom,levo se jutranjemu soncu nasmiha ledenik avstrijskeganajvišjega vrha Grossglocknerja; kmalu tik podkrilom že gledam Salzburg in zasveti »Fasten seatbelts«; potniki pred mano, ki niso zatopljeni včasopisje, nejevoljno pospravljajo računalnike, karpa sploh ni slabo, kot ugotovim. Zrejo skozi oknona sveže pobeljene vrhove in se čez jezero Chiemseeozirajo dalje proti zahodu, kjer je opazitiveliko mesto. München. Smo že nizko in tik nadznamenito nogometno Allianz areno, ko uzremvlak, ki me bo kmalu popeljal v sam center mesta.Pristajamo proti soncu in vem, da bo lep dan, sajpiha vzhodnik. Pozdrav posadki in že smo na potiv terminal, nato pa mimo še spečega drsališčasledim oznakam za vlak. Vožnja z njim je udobna,prijetno tiha in zanimiva, ko opazujem ljudi inoznake na njihovih kovčkih, ki so, kot kaže, prišliz vsega sveta. Polja zamenjajo vasi, vasi hiše inbloki in predmestja, predmestja pa tema. Tema,ki nakazuje, da je ta vlak pravzaprav metro. In res,izstopim na Marienplatz. Strogi center! Minutkotekočih stopnic in že se čudim, kako lahkotnose pripelješ na glavni trg, kjer se ob pogledu navse stavbe, ki te obkrožajo, zaveš, da si v enempomembnejših mest tega sveta. Ura je malo čezdevet in mestni vrvež je že prav neverjeten. Konecnovembra je in oživijo izložbe meni najljubšeblagovnice Galeria Kaufhof.49

destinacija münchen50

destinacija mÜnchenGrem počasi mimo in se smejim otrokom, ki sprsti navdušeno tacajo po šipi izložbe in razlagajostaršem, kako medvedek vozi kočijo in kako sezajček vrti na ledu. Smejim se sebi, ko se spomnim,da sem bil konec osemdesetih prav tak.Trg je prav tako privlačen, kot je bil poleti, kosem bil nazadnje tu in je bilo na ulicah neprimernoveč turistov.Dan mi hitro mine v sproščenem pohajkovanjupo mestu, kjer združim prijetno s koristnim, konakupim vse, po kar sem pravzaprav prišel. VMünchnu je veliko možnosti za ugodne nakupe,saj mesto premore več kot 8.000 trgovin in 15veleblagovnic, kar je dovolj za vse okuse in denarnice.Ogledam si tudi specializirane trgovines starinami, ki prevladujejo po Schwabingu, inpobrskam po knjigarnah, ki jih v centru mestane manjka. Ravno prav utrujen se odločim, dabo čas za kratek počitek. Kadar sem v Münchnu,si rad privoščim pivo v eni od velikih pivnic,zraven pa se vedno prileže še odličen golaž alipa pečen piščanec s prilogo. Restavracija, ki menikoli ne razočara in jo obiščem tudi tokrat, jevsekakor najbolj znamenita pivnica na svetu –Hofbräuhaus. Dolge mize, v narodno nošo oblečenenatakarice, bavarska godba in preostanesamo še, da si rečem dober tek. Sladica sledikasneje na ulici – stara in preverjena nemškaspecialiteta: s čokolado oblito sadno nabodalo.Večerni vlak, s katerim se vračam, je bolj prazenkot poln, saj vsi derejo proti centru na kozarček»glühweina« na glavni trg, a moji sopotnici stapolni vrečki, ki ju bom pospravil v nov zjutrajrezerviran kovček v Lufthansa World Shopu.Sprehod po trgovinicah letališča se konča zneplaniranim nakupom, saj tudi tu velja prednovoletnipopust. Prepričujem se, da sem ravnos tem opravljenim nakupom pač prihranil zavlak do mesta in nazaj, ko na ploščadi zagledamAdrijino letalo.si vzemite še kakšen dan več in si oglejte kateregaod odličnih muzejev ali dvorcev, kot je naprimer veličastni dvorec Wittelsbach.Vsak, ki pride vMünchen v začetkuoktobra, bi moralvsaj enkrat vživljenju obiskatinajvečjo veselico nasvetu – Oktoberfest,ki je največji pivskipraznik.Ob vseh letnih časih si seveda velja ogledatinajbolj množično obiskan muzej v vsej Nemčiji,Tehnični muzej ob reki Isar. Zanj si je vrednovzeti večji del dneva. Veliko Slovencev težkočaka tudi na priložnost za obisk koncerna BMW,ki že s svojimi veličastnimi stavbami jemlje dih.Pa še ena za vse ljubitelje avtomobilizma: če sena Bavarskem zadržujete dalj časa, si vsekakorvzemite čas in se podajte do mesta Ingolstadt,ki leži na strateški legi ob zgornjem toku Donavein se ponaša z nadvse privlačim Audijevimmuzejem. Nepozabno doživetje se vam ponudina vodenem ogledu tovarne kot tudi ob obiskumuzeja in razstavnega salona teh lepotcev.Stevardesa se mi že na daleč široko nasmeje,ko me vidi s polnimi rokami in nasmejanim,a utrujenim pogledom, ki daje slutiti, da je zamano zanimiv dan. In res je tako, še bolj pa prijanjen »Dober večer, ja, kje si pa ti spet hodil?«Z eno besedo se ne da opisati, z enim stavkomprav tako ne, vtisov je preveč. Zato se ji le nasmehnem.Najbolje je, da se vsak sam odpravipogledat in odkrit svoj delček Münchna.Za obisk tega multinacionalnega mesta si vzemitenajmanj dva dni. Večina glavnih znamenitostimesta je razporejenih v okviru notranjega»ringa« – torej so dosegljive peš. Veliko jeparkovnih površin, to so »pljuča« mesta in – karje največ vredno: peš cona za sproščeno pohajkovanjepo mestu, ki lahko traja do poznegavečera, saj je veliko trgovin in blagovnic odprtihvsaj do 20. ure. V kolikor ste ljubitelji umetnosti,51

"You needn't bother going anywhere else... you can't beat Munich, everything elsein Germany is a waste of time," ErnestHemingway enthused in 1932.Almost a century later, Germany's third largest citycontinues to maintain its attraction for Germansand foreign tourists alike. The hustle and bustle of amodern city with a romantic Alpine atmosphere is aremarkable combination that keeps tourists comingto the Bavarian capital all year round. Munich isan important European cultural centre thanks toits unparalleled assortment of museums and appealingfeatures such as the blue and yellow trams,tree-lined boulevards, fountains, parks, street cafes,large beer halls and beer gardens. Beer plays animportant role in the city and Munich breweries area major part of the economy. The city is also knownas a centre of the film and fashion industries.Adria pilot AndrejRopret comes to Munichfrequently – usuallyin his professionalcapacity, though hesometimes takestime off to visit thecity with a specialpurpose in mind.Home from Munich Loaded withShopping BagsIt all starts on a Friday evening, when I answer thephone to tell friends that no, I can't go out tonight,I'm going shopping tomorrow... After a second'spause, they try and change my mind, saying thatI can still go to the shopping centre at noon, whenI wake up after a memorable night. "No, you don'tunderstand. I have to get up at 4:50, just when you'llbe waiting for a taxi in the centre of Ljubljana."As the alarm clock goes off far too early for a Saturdaymorning, I long for a few more hours' sleep, butI soon remember that I am about to have a veryinteresting day. And it really was...It begins with beautiful views of Gorenjska andTriglav; to my left, the glacier on Grossglockner,Austria's highest mountain, winks at the sun. SoonI see Salzburg below the left wing and the "Fastenseat belts" sign comes on. Those passengers infront of me who are not absorbed in newspapers,sullenly put away their laptops, which is no badthing, I think to myself. They start looking out of thewindow at the snow-covered mountains below,then across Lake Chiemsee farther to the west,where a large city comes into view. Munich. Theplane is flying low now and as we pass the famousAllianz Arena football stadium, I spot the train thatwill soon take me into the heart of the city. Duringthe landing, we face the sun and I know that it isgoing to be a beautiful day because an easterlywind is blowing. A quick goodbye to the cabin crewand we are on our way to the terminal; soon after,I pass the still empty ice skating rink and follow thesigns for the train. The train ride is comfortable,pleasantly quiet and interesting – it is fun lookingat people and the labels on their suitcases fromvarious destinations around the world. Soon, thefields are replaced by villages, the villages by houses,apartment blocks and suburbs. Finally, the suburbsare replaced by – darkness. Darkness that remindsme I am actually on an underground train. I get offat Marienplatz, right in the centre. A minute on theescalator and I am outside, surprised at how easyit is to travel right to the main square where theimposing buildings finally remind you that you areactually in one of the more important cities of thisworld. It is just after nine and the bustle of the city isin full swing. It is late November and the windowsof Galeria Kaufhof, my favourite department store,have come alive. I slowly walk past, laughing at thechildren tapping on the windows excitedly and tellingtheir parents about the bear driving a carriageand the bunny spinning on ice. Then I laugh atmyself as I remember that I was exactly the same inthe late 1980s.52

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destination mUnichThe square looks just as appealing as it did the last time I was here, though thatwas summer time and there were a lot more tourists in the streets.The day passes quickly. I spend it wandering around the city and taking care ofthe reason why I'm here – shopping. There are endless bargains to be found inMunich, a city with over 8,000 shops and 15 department stores; there is somethingfor everyone's taste and wallet here. I look at the specialist antique shopsin Schwabing and explore the many bookshops in the city centre. Feeling pleasantlytired, I decide to take a short break. Whenever I am in Munich, I like to havea beer and some delicious goulash or roast chicken with potato salad in one ofthe large beer halls. I choose the restaurant that never lets me down – Hofbräuhaus,the world's most famous beer hall. Long tables, waitresses in traditionalcostume and Bavarian music – I know that I am going to enjoy the meal. Fordessert, I have a chocolate-covered fruit kebab in the street.The evening train to the airport is mostly empty, since everyone is now headinginto the centre for a glass of Glühwein in the main square. I am now travellingwith two bags full of shopping; I will put them in the new suitcase I reserved atthe Lufthansa WorldShop in the morning. A tour of the airport shops ends withan unplanned purchase thanks to the pre-Christmas discounts. I tell myself thatthe purchase saved me the cost of another train to the city centre and back, andthen I see the Adria plane at the gate.The flight attendant greets me with a big smile when she sees that my hands arefull and my eyes happy but tired, revealing that I've had a long and interestingday. It is nice to hear her say "Good evening, where have you been again?" It can'tbe described in a word or even a sentence, there were just too many experiences.So I just smile. The best thing to do is for everyone to go and discover a part ofMunich for themselves.Take at least two days off to visit this multicultural city. The majority of the city'smost famous sights are situated within the inner ring road and can be reachedon foot. There are lots of parks, the "lungs" of the city, but most importantly,there is a pedestrian zone for relaxed walks. They are likely to last well into theevening, since most shops and department stores are open until 20:00 or evenlater. If you are a fan of the arts, take an extra day or two and visit one of theexcellent museums or palaces such as the majestic Wittelsbach palace.If you are visiting Munich in earlyOctober, don't miss the world'slargest party, which everyoneshould experience at least once:Oktoberfest, the largest beerfestival in the world.Regardless of the season, a sight not to miss is the museum of technology on theIsar, Germany's most visited museum. It is worth spending most of the day there.Many Slovenians are also excited about visiting the BMW headquarters andmuseum; even the majestic buildings themselves are a breathtaking sight. Hereis another recommendation for car enthusiasts: if you are staying in Bavaria for awhile, you should take the time to visit the city of Ingolstadt, strategically locatedupstream on the Danube. The city boasts an excellent Audi museum. Get readyfor an unforgettable experience on a guided tour of the factory, museum andshowroom of these magnificent cars.!Adria flies between LJUBLJANA&MUNICH3 TIMES A DAY55

056Audi Forum, Ingolstadtbesedilo: jernej dvoršak Fotografije: Audi Media ServiceStojim na semaforju. Ob meni se ustavistarodobnik. Čudovito ohranjen. Znamkene poznam. Morda je le spremenilalogotip in se še danes prodaja z novim.Občudujem dizajn, ki je še iz časov, kovarnost pešcev ni bila na prvem mestu.Le kako bi bila, saj so avtomobili vozilinajveč 60 kilometrov na uro. Gospod ssivo baretko se odpelje, jaz pa sanjarimnaprej, kakšen užitek bi bil usesti se zaleseni volan takšnega avtomobila. Avtomobilaz dušo.Nemčija, država z bogato tradicijo avtomobilskeindustrije, se ponaša s kar 170 avtomobilskimimuzeji, od katerih je tudi nekaj zasebnih zbirk, kiso odprte za javnost. Na ogled je vsega 13.000avtomobilov, dvokolesnikov in drugih večnamenskihvozil. Seveda pa ni večjega avtomobilskegaproizvajalca, ki javnosti ne bi predstavil svojezgodovine. Večinoma pa tu ne gre le za razstavestarodobnikov, ampak tudi za predstavitev razvojain proizvodnje. Nemški Audi, ki sodi v zgornjirazred avtomobilskih znamk, je odprl svoj muzejdecembra 2000. Koncept in zamisel muzeja Audimuseum mobile je na multimedijski in interaktivninačin predstaviti zgodovino in prihodnost Audija.Arhitektura muzeja v ovalni stekleni zgradbioponaša letnice na drevesnem deblu. Atrakcija vmuzeju pa je vsekakor 14 premikajočih se Audijevihmodelov na največjem paternostru na svetu(paternoster je pomična krožna konstrukcija zverigo odprtih prostorov, ki se počasi pomikajovertikalno v krogu, tako da ima uporabnik navoljo stopiti v dvigalo, ki potuje bodisi v zgornjabodisi v spodnja nadstropja).Muzej je razdeljen v predvojno ter povojnoobdobje in je zasnovan tako, da obiskovalecpotuje skozi razvoj znamke od samih začetkovdo moderne dobe. Potovanje se začne v drugemnadstropju leta 1899, ko je bil ustanovljen Horch& Cie. Motorenwerke AG, poleg tega pa jepodrobno razložena tudi združitev znamk Audi,Horch, DKW in Wanderer, ko je novoustanovljenopodjetje z imenom Auto Union AG leta 1932dobilo zaščitni znak s štirimi krogi. Obiskovalecsi v drugem nadstropju poleg najstarejšegaprimerka Horch 10-12 PS Tonneeu iz leta 1903ogleda tudi 16-valjnik Auto Union Hill Climber skar 520 konjskimi močmi. Nostalgična povojnaleta z izjemno hitrimi reli dirkalniki in veličastnimimotocikli pa so postavljena na ogled v prvemnadstropju. V svoji slavi uživa 3-valjni 4-taktnidirkalni motocikel RM 350, ki je zaradi doseženih12.000 obratov na minuto dobil vzdevek »pojočažaga«. Temeljni kamen znamke Audi pa je bilpostavljen z modelom Audi 100 iz leta 1968. Nasvoj račun pridejo tudi reli navdušenci, kajti razstavljenje tudi dirkalnik s štirikolesnim pogonomAudi Quattro – prava legenda relija, kajti zmagalje že na svojem premiernem nastopu in natokonstantno zmagoval v letih 1980 in 1981.»Svet doživetij«, kot so poimenovali Audi ForumIngolstadt, ponuja tudi druge zanimivosti. Polegmuzeja si avtomobilski navdušenci lahko ogledajoproizvodnjo, uživajo v kulinaričnih dobrotah,gredo v Audi kino ali pa na »after work« jazzkoncert. Verjetno najbolj razburljivo doživetje paje prevzem novih avtomobilov, ki lahko z ogledommuzeja in proizvodnje traja tudi cel dan.Vsako leto prevzame svoje nove avtomobile okoli120.000 strank, kar pomeni, da pride dnevno posvoj novi avto povprečno 330 ljudi.Dandanes se ob tako hitrem razvoju lahko vprašamo,ali bodo v prihodnje avtomobilski muzejiše bolj zanimivi, ko nas bodo otroci spraševali,kaj je tista cev pod zadnjim odbijačem. Mordapa bo vzrok dizajn avtomobilov današnjegačasa, ko so posodobitve modelov vsakič manjšein manj opazne. Vsekakor pa muzeji postajajotrženjsko orodje za krepitev blagovne znamke inprivabljanje turistov.audi Forum,Ingolstadttext: jernej dvoršakPhotography: Audi Media ServiceI am waiting at the traffic lights. A vintagecar stops alongside me. It is beautifullypreserved. I am not familiar with thebrand – or maybe they have simplychanged the logo used on new carstoday. I admire the design, which datesback to an era when pedestrian safetywas not a priority. And why should itbe, when cars could go no faster thanabout 60 kmph? The driver, wearing a greyberet, drives off as I fantasise about thepleasures of sitting behind the woodenwheel of a car like that. A car with a soul.Germany has a long tradition in the automotiveindustry. The country boasts as many as 170 carmuseums, including several private collections thatare open to the public. There is a total of 13,000cars, motorcycles and other multi-purpose vehiclesexhibited. And of course no large car manufacturerAudi Type R Imperator

AUDIwould pass up the opportunity to show its history tothe public. However, their exhibitions are about morethan vintage cars – they also aim to present thecompany's development and production. The Germanluxury car maker Audi opened its museum inDecember 2000. The concept and idea behind Audi'smoving museum is to present the history and futureof Audi through a multimedia, interactive exhibition.The architecture of the glass oval-shaped museumbuilding echoes tree rings. The main attraction is undoubtedlythe 14 moving Audi models on the world'slargest paternoster (a paternoster consists of a chainof open compartments that move slowly around avertical loop without stopping and allow users tostep into a lift travelling either up or down).Od znamke Horch do znamke Audi / From Horch to AudiThe museum is divided into the pre-war and postwarperiods and is designed in a way that guidesvisitors through the brand's development from theearly beginnings to the present day. The journey beginson the second floor in 1899, when Horch & Cie.Motorenwerke AG was established. There is a also adescription of the 1932 merger of Audi, Horch, DKWand Wanderer into a single company, Auto UnionAG, which then adopted the famous logo with fourinterlinked rings. In addition to a Horch 10-12 PSTonneeu, the oldest exhibit dating back to 1903, thesecond floor also houses the impressive 16-cylinder,520-horsepower Auto Union Hill Climber. Exhibitsfrom the nostalgic post-war years – rally racing carsand majestic motorcycles – are shown on the firstfloor. They include the famous 3-cylinder, 4-strokeracing motorcycle RM 350, whose 12,000 revolutionsper minute earned it the nickname of "The SingingSaw". The foundation of the Audi brand is the Audi100 model made in 1968. The museum also hassomething for rally enthusiasts: a 4-wheel-drive AudiQuattro racing car. This veritable legend of rally wonthe first race it took part in and continued winningall through 1980 and 1981."The world of experience," as the Audi Forum inIngolstadt is known, also features a number ofother attractions. In addition to the museum,car enthusiasts can see the production, enjoy theculinary delights on offer, visit the Audi cinema orattend an "after work" jazz concert. But the mostexciting experience is probably the handover ofnew cars; along with a tour of the museum andproduction line, it could take all day. Each year,some 120,000 clients collect their new cars, whichmeans an average of 330 people a day.Audi 225 Front Special RoadsterConsidering the speed of development today, carmuseums might become even more interesting inthe future, with our children asking what the pipebelow the rear fender was for. Or maybe the reasonwill be in modern car design and the way modelupdates are increasingly minor and less apparent.At any rate, museums are rapidly becominganother marketing tool for reinforcing the brandand attracting tourists.57

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TRNOVSKI GOZDSkrite poti,ki pripovedujejozgodbebesedilo in fotografije: Jože balas»Poletnega večera sedeti kje na parobkutrnovske planote, križpotu (ali križadi)pred Krnico, je res poseben užitek. Vsanarava se pripravlja k počitku in svetigorski mir vlada naokrog. Pred namileži Vipavsko-Goriška planjava z griči,holmi in brdi, vsa Furlanija z Jadranskimmorjem, vsi robovi in vrhovi Kraškeplanote, v zahodni daljavi pa,kakor v tanki sivi kopreni, visokokvir skalnatih italijanskih planin.Vse to leži pred nami kakor velikarazprostrta knjiga prirode, iz katerebere vsakdo po svoji volji.«Tako je Jakob Zupančič v Planinskem vestniku iz leta 1911, torej pred dobrimisto leti, nagovarjal in vabil slovenske ljubitelje gora in vse ostale nato mogočno in skrivnostno planoto. In čeprav na prvi pogled nezanimivain dolgočasna, skriva v čarobni tišini prostranih in divjih gozdov marsikaterozanimivost, posebnost, da o njenem največjem bogastvu, samihgozdovih niti ne govorim. Že to, da ne vem, na katerem koncu naj začnemzgodbo, govori svoje. Ali začeti z zgodbo pa tudi s potjo na Gori, kottudi domačini rečejo delu Trnovskemu gozda med Predmejo in Kovkom,mogoče v Trnovem ali pa malo više na Lokvah, mogoče v Zadlogu. Naj sena pot na planoto odpravim iz Vipave in mimo izvira Hublja do Otliškegaokna, mogoče iz idrijske smeri po dolini Belce mimo belških klavž, mogočez Vojskega ali pa po težko prehodni Peternollijevi grapi iz doline Trebuše,mogoče ... Ja, na desetine poti vodi na to mogočno kraško planoto, divjoin skrivnostno hkrati, in vse so lepe. Planoto, ki je bila najbrž zaradi svojenedostopnosti, divje narave in včasih skoraj ekstremnih klimatskih značilnostidolgo časa neposeljena.59

trnovski gozdVsekakor so bili prvi naseljenci trnovskega gozda po vsej verjetnosti lovci,gozdarji in pastirji. Tako je že v urbarju goriških grofov iz začetka 16. stoletjaomenjenih več planin za pašo. Nekako v istem času se je začelo tudi načrtnogospodarjenje z gozdovi, ki je bilo eno prvih v Evropi. Ustanavljali so segozdni uradi, vzpostavljali gozdni registri, izdajali so se odloki, nekakšni»gozdni redi«, ki pa so se vse bolj omejevali na pašo v gozdovih in sečnjoza lastne potrebe, za preživetje. Gozd je namreč služil revnemu prebivalstvuza osnovno preživetje, v njem so lovili divjad, pasli svojo čredo in drobnico,v njem so dobivali les za dolge in mrzle zimske noči. Les so tudi prodajalioziroma menjavali za hrano, saj denarja ni bilo nikoli na pretek. Na splošnopa je z lesom služila predvsem gospoda, ki ga je prodajala Benečanom.Prvi zapisi o stalni poselitvi segajo v prvo polovico 17. stoletja, ko jegospoda zaradi dobrih možnosti izkoriščanja gozda za gozdarstvo in lovzačela vzpodbujati stalno naselitev, kasneje je temu botroval tudi razvojsteklarstva in oglarstva, saj so bile za delovanje dejavnosti potrebne velikekoličine lesa, tega pa v trnovskih gozdovih ni nikoli primanjkovalo. Steklarstvoin glažute, steklarske peči, so se v Trnovski gozd preselile iz dolineTrebuše, ko je tam začelo primanjkovati lesa, osnovni material, kremečevpesek, pa so še vedno prenašali na hrbtih iz doline Trebuše. Na planoti statako v času od 1771 pa vse do 1830 delovali dve glažuti, in sicer v Mrzliin Mojski dragi, vendar ne istočasno, oglarjenje pa je preživelo tako rekočdo moderne dobe, tako kot žganje apna. Trnovski gozd je bil tudi zelopomemben za idrijski rudnik živega srebra, saj si obstoja tega rudnika brezlesa s Trnovske planote ni bilo mogoče predstavljati. Še bolj nemogoče sije danes predstavljati spravilo lesa s planote v dolino, saj cest tako rekočni bilo, vsekakor pa ni bilo mehanizacije, kot jo poznamo danes. Le živačloveška in živalska moč sta bili! Kasneje pa tudi moč vode in spretnosttedanjih inženirjev, ki so že leta 1589 zgradili na reki Zali prve klavže zaspravilo lesa v dolino, kasneje tudi na rekah Idrijci in Belci. Sprva so bilelesene in niso uspele kljubovati nepredvidljivim visokim vodam, zato sokasneje postavili kamnite. Leta 1776 so začeli graditi Brusove in Putrihoveklavže na Belci. Danes sta obnovljena in predstavljata izjemen tehničnispomenik, obvezen postanek in ogled na naši poti na planoto.Kakor koli, bolj kot je oblast formalno pravno urejala izkoriščanje gozda,tem bolj je omejevala lokalno prebivalstvo in njihove stare privilegije pobrezplačnem izkoriščanju gozda za svoje potrebe, kar je vodilo do taborov,60

trnovski gozdnekakšnih protestnih zborov lokalnega prebivalstva pod okriljem društvaSoča leta 1871 in 1872 v Renčah. Do njih pa žal ni prišlo, saj jih je oblast prepovedala,ker naj bi bila sama vsebina in ostale točke taborov preveč političnonevarne. No, pa saj vemo, vedno smo bili nekje na prepihu zgodovine,vedno nekje na meji in vedno smo se na tak ali drugačen način zoperstavljalisamovolji vladajoče gospode ali pa vojskam. Tudi te je bilo v Trnovskemgozdu vedno dovolj, če ne preveč. Tako Turkov, na katere spominja zgodbao izvoru imena Turški klanec, pa Napoleonovih soldatov, vojakov vsehnarodnosti prve svetovne vojne, ki so tu v zaledju krvave soške fronte krpalirane, do zadnje vojne, ki je dala zavetje partizanski Bolnici Pavla in kamor siokupatorji niso niti upali vstopiti dlje kot do njegovega roba.Naravnih znamenitosti ali pa posebnosti je na Trnovski planoti veliko. In čevas na Trnovsko planoto in gozd ne privabijo same naravne lepote, vas bodomogoče nenavadna imena, kot so Kurja vas, Modrasovec, Petelinovec, Kozjirob, Kobilica, Orlovica, Sinji vrh, že omenjeni Turški klanec ali pa celo Sibirija,»kjer je za en rokav vedno bolj mrzlo kot drugod«, ali Kitajska, na katerospominjajo kilometri in kilometri suhih kamnitih zidov, še bolj verjetno pazaradi tega, ker so na tem koncu imele družine po 10, 12 ali celo 16 otrok,in so govorili, da »jih je kot Kitajcev« ... Tu so še druge zgodbe, ki jih vedoše največ povedati vedno nasmejani in prijazni domačini. Omenil sem ževeliko naravno Otliško okno, ki naj bi ga bil naredil sam hudič, potem ko jehotel premakniti Čaven, ker naj bi se bilo pod njim skrivalo zlato jezero, pamu je pri tem spodrsnilo in je z rogom »predru« skalo. Bolj verjetna je razlagadomačinov, ki pravijo, da je stena votla ('otla'), od tod Otlica in Otliško okno.Drugo naravno okno oziroma naravni most se nahaja pri Trnovem in mupravijo Skozno. Starejši Trnovčan pa se spomni, da so jim kot otročajem pripovedovalizgodbe, kako je bila v starih časih tam zasidrana Neotova barkain so šli v svoji nagajivosti celo tako daleč, da so v steno pritrdili velikanskoželezno rinko. Današnji otročaji te zgodbe seveda sploh ne poznajo več, šeza Skozno niso slišali, saj se ne igrajo več v gmajni, kot so se njihovi očetjein dedje; njihov svet se je skrčil na računalniški zaslon in internet. Tako kotnajbrž ne poznajo ljubezenske zgodbe o »roži iz Trnovskega gozda«, MetiTrnovski, prelepi pastirici, ki je s svojo lepoto in milino začarala mladegakromberškega grofa, pa ga v svoji skromnosti in veličini hkrati zavrnila in svojesrce raje predala gozdarju Tonetu. Najbrž ne poznajo niti lovskih zgodb, šeposebej tistih, ki govorijo o grofu Chambordu, zadnjem burbonskem kraljuHenriku V., ki je danes pokopan v Kostanjevici pri Novi Gorici.61

TRNOVSKI GOZD62Ja, včasih so bili trnovski gozdovi polni divjadi, še posebej jelenjadi, srnjadi,divjih koz, gamsov ali medvedov, ter divjih petelinov, ki so bili zelo priljubljenipri grofu Chambordu – ustrelil jih je namreč več deset.No, čisto na drugem koncu, na Mali Gori nad Zadlogom, srečam ZajčevegaMarjana, ki je več kot 40 let delal kot gozdar na Trnovski planoti. Njegovispomini na včasih prav nečloveško in naporno delo so težki, pa kljub temuje nasmeh ves čas zarisan na njegovem obrazu. Od njega izvem še za enopresenetljivo in ne tipično posebnost Trnovskega gozda, ki pa se je žalohranila le še na fotografijah in v pripovedovanjih domačinov. Na Mali Gorije namreč za časa Italije in vse do leta 1945 deloval mlin na veter. Res je, da jebilo v preteklosti, še pred dobrim stoletjem, na Slovenskem veliko mlinov naveter. Vendar so bili ti v največji meri posejani po Dravskem polju, Štajerski,eden je bil celo na Koprivniku nad Bohinjem, za tega na Trnovski planoti pasem slišal prvič. Mlinar Filip Viktelič, po domače Pri Košperju, je po vrnitvi izvojske v Rusiji, kjer je prvič videl te mline, menda rekel, »da jim denar enostavnopiha skozi prste«, in zastavil obrt, ki pa jo je prekinila huda poškodbaroke prav v mlinu.Na Mali Gori najdemo tudi Kalarjev ledenik, iz katerega so za časa Italije sekaliled in ga vozili v Trst. No, še bolj znana jama z večnim ledom in snegom jeVelika ledena jama v Paradani, ki je danes zavarovana kot naravni rezervat. Izomenjene jame so od druge polovice 19. stoletja naprej oskrbovali z ledomTrst, Gorico in Reko, izvažali so ga celo v Egipt, z njim so hladili goriško sadje,namenjeno za izvoz, saj hladilnic v tistih časih niso poznali. Podobno kot priSmrekovi dragi, ki je skupaj z Golaki razglašena za gozdni in naravni rezervat,je tu lepo viden toploten in rastlinski obrat.Nasploh je v Trnovskem gozdu kar hladno, na kar nas opominjajo metriin metri lesenih klafter na vsakem ovinku in pred domačijami. Povprečnaletna temperatura v njegovem osrednjem delu je od 7 do 9 stopinj Celzija,čemur poleg visoke nadmorske višine med 700 in 1495 metri botrujetudi burja, ki se s planote spušča proti morju. In prav burja je kriva še zaeno lokalno posebnost, nenavadne dimnike v zaselku Kovk. V starih časih,ko so bile hiše krite s slamnatimi strehami, se stara odprta ognjišča, črnekuhinje, kasneje tudi slabi dimniki skupaj z burjo niso najbolje znašli. Ženajmanjša iskrica, ki jih je burja raznašala kot žareče snežinke vsenaokoli, jetakoj pognala ogenj v streho, zato so dim speljali skozi brežino do dimnika,ki so ga sezidali za hišo. Danes stojijo v Kovku le še trije taki dimniki, od tehsta dva še vedno v stalni uporabi.Po Trnovskem gozdu, ki zna biti v svoji tišini tako čaroben, da ga le s težavozapustite, kaj šele pozabite, je speljanih nešteto poti. Tudi takih, ki vas zlahkazmedejo in odpeljejo nekam stran, da boste le težko našli pot nazaj. No,na takih poteh je najlepše, tam vas razen divjadi, šelestenja vetra in lastnihmisli ne bo motil nihče. Tja se odpravite peš ali s kolesom in seveda z dobrokarto, kompasom ali pa gps-om. Tja se odpravite iskat svoj mir in svojo pot.Ali pa prijateljstvo, kdo ve? In konec poti naj ne bo le čudovito razgledišče sKopitnika, Poldanovca, Mrazovca, Čavna ali Sinjega vrha. Ne, naj bo to šelezačetek novega raziskovanja, novih poti in novih zgodb, ki jih za vas skrivaTrnovski gozd. Naj bo to začetek novega prijateljstva!Kot vir nekaterih zgodb mi je bil vpomoč zanimiv zbornik Zgodbe sTrnovske planote, zbral in uredilJože Šušmelj, Goriška Mohorjevadružba, 2011, ki jo priporočam vbranje vsem ljubiteljem Trnovskegagozda in gora nasploh.

The Magical Trnovski gozdStories of the hidden trailstext and photography: Jože balas“Sitting on a summer evening somewhere on the edge of theTrnovska planota plain, at the crossroads (known locally as“križada”) near Krnica, offers a special kind of pleasure. All ofnature is preparing for a good night’s rest, and there is nothingbut peace all around – the kind of peace you only find in themountains. The Vipavsko region stretches out before you – theGoriška planjava plain with its low, rolling hills, all of Friuliand the Adriatic Sea, the peaks and hills of the Kras plain and,far away due west, as if through a thin grey mist, there is the tallframe of the rocky Italian mountains. All of this lies at your feetlike a large, open book of nature from which anyone can readwhenever they desire to.”With this article published in the Planinski vestnik in 1911 – more than a centuryago – Jakob Zupančič appealed to Slovenian and other mountain lovers,inviting them to visit the majestic and mysterious plain of Trnovo. It may seemuninteresting and boring at first glance, but the magical silence of its wild,expansive forests conceals countless sights and attractions, not to mention themost important treasure of the plain – the forests themselves. The fact that I can’teven decide where I should start speaks for itself. Should I begin my story and myjourney at Gora (Mountain), the local name for the part of Trnovski gozd (Trnovoforest) that lies between Predmeja and Kovk? Or maybe I should start in Trnovo,at the slightly higher altitude of Lokve or perhaps in Zadlog? On the other hand,I could also set off from Vipava and past the source of the Hubelj to the naturalsight of Otliško okno (Otlica window); then there is the Idrija direction that wouldtake me along the Belca Valley past the dam known as Belške klavže. Perhaps Ishould start in Vojsko, or take the Peternollijeva grapa ravine from the Trebušavalley, or maybe ... Yes, this majestic Kras plain, wild and shrouded in mystery, canbe reached by dozens of trails, each more beautiful than the last. For a long timein the past, the plain of Trnovo was too wild and inaccessible, its climactic conditionstoo extreme for it to be settled by people.It is believed that the first settlers on the Trnovski gozd plain were hunters, forestersand shepherds. The land register maintained by the Counts of Gorizia in theearly 16th century records several plains used as pasture land. This era also sawthe beginning of systematic forest management in Trnovo, one of the earliestin Europe. Forestry offices and registers were established, ordinances and “forestrules” issued, all of which restricted the use of forests for pasture land and woodfor personal needs – for survival. The fact is that the forest had long been usedby the poorest segment of the population to scrape out a living – they wouldhunt for wild game, graze cows and sheep and collect wood for long, cold winternights. They would also sell wood or trade it for food, since money was always inshort supply. But in general, the only people making a profit from the local woodwere the upper classes, who sold wood to Venetians.The earliest mentions of permanent settlements on the plain date back to the firsthalf of the 17th century, when the upper classes took note of the excellent opportunitiesfor forestry and hunting and began to support permanent settlement.Later, the population also increased thanks to the development of the glass andcharcoal industries, both of which required large quantities of wood – the onething that the forests of Trnovski gozd had in abundance. Glassblowers and theirglassworks (known as “glažute”) moved to Trnovski gozd from the Trebuša Valleywhere there was a shortage of wood. Silica sand, the basic material for glassmaking,had to be carried by hand up to the plain from the valley. From 1771 to 1830,there were two glassworks operating on the plain, one in Mrzla draga and theother in Mojska draga, although they were not in operation at the same time.63

tHE MAGICAL TRNOVSKI GOZDMeanwhile, charcoal and lime production have survived virtually until thepresent day. Trnovski gozd also played an important role when it came to Idrija’smercury mine – without the wood brought down from the Trnovska planotaplain, there simply wouldn’t be a mine. It is difficult to imagine today how woodwas transported from the plain down to the valley in the past when there werehardly any roads and, more importantly, there was none of the machinery thatwe use now. All they had was human and animal power! However, thanks to theingenuity of the engineers at the time, they soon learnt to harness the power ofwater, and as early as 1589, the first “klavže”, a tall dam for transporting wood bywater, was built on the Zala River.Later, further klavže dams were built on the Idrijca and Belca. Initially, the damswere made of wood and soon collapsed under the high and unpredictablewaters, so they were rebuilt from stone instead. In 1776, construction began onthe Brus and Putrih klavže dams on the Belca. Having been fully restored, todaythey are a fascinating part of Slovenia’s technical heritage and a must-see sighton our way to the plain of Trnovo.One thing is clear: the more rules and restrictions the authorities placed onthe use of the forest, the more limited the local population was when it cameto their ancient privileges for free exploitation of the forest for personal needs.This led to the rise of protest gatherings (known as “tabori”, camps) of the localpopulation, organised by the Soča Association in 1871 and 1872 in Renče.Unfortunately, the actual gatherings never took place, having been banned bythe authorities for being too politically dangerous. But then again, throughouthistory the Slovenian people have always lived in the eye of the storm, alwayson the brink of something big and constantly opposing in one way or anotherthe despotic will of the ruling aristocracy or the invading armies. And there wereplenty of those in Trnovski gozd also. There were the Turks, whose memory stillsurvives today in the story of how Turški klanec (Turkish slope) got its name;there were Napoleon’s armies; in World War I, soldiers of all nationalities lickedtheir wounds here in the hinterland of the Isonzo Front; and in World War II, thePavla partisan hospital was concealed here, safe in a forest that the occupyingforces never dared to enter.There are plenty of natural sights and attractions on the Trnovska planota plain.If that is not enough to convince you, how about the unusual local names suchas Kurja vas (Chicken village), Modrasovec (Viper hill), Petelinovec (Rooster hill),Kozji rob (Goat edge), Kobilica (Grasshopper), Orlovica (Eagle hill), Sinji vrh (Skyblue peak), the abovementioned Turški klanec (Turkish slope), Sibirija (Siberia) –“where it’s always a bit colder than anywhere else” – and Kitajska (China), whosename comes from the endless kilometres of dry stone walls or, more likely, fromthe fact that families here had as many as 10, 12 or even 16 children, giving riseto the phrase “as many people as in China” ... There are more stories to be heardhere, and the friendly locals are always happy to share them. Another sight, onethat I have mentioned before, is the large Otliško okno (Otlica window), a naturalwindow in the rock, said to be made by the Devil himself. The story goes thatthe Devil was trying to lift the mountain of Čaven, which was said to conceal alake of gold, but then he slipped and pierced the rock with one of his horns. Thelocals can provide a more plausible explanation: the cliff is hollow (“otla” in thelocal dialect), which is where the names of Otlica and Otliško okno originate.There is another natural window or rather a natural bridge near Trnovo knownas Skozno (Throughway). An older Trnovo inhabitant remembers a story from hischildhood saying that in ancient times Noah’s Ark was moored at Skozno, evengoing so far as to attach a large iron ring to the rock. The children of today havenever heard this story and don’t even know about Skozno, since they no longerplay in the pastures and forests like their parents and grandparents did – theirworld has shrunk to the size of a computer screen with an internet connection.Thus, they have probably never heard the love story of Meta Trnovska, “the flowerof Trnovski gozd.” She was a shepherdess whose beauty and grace enchantedthe young Count of Kromberg, but Meta turned him down and gave her heartto Tone the forester instead. Other stories modern children have probably neverheard include the many stories of hunting, including those about the Count ofChambord – Henri V, the last Bourbon king, who lies buried in Kostanjevica nearNova Gorica. In those days, the forests of Trnovo were full of wild game, especiallydeer, roe deer, wild goats, chamois, bears and wood grouse; the latter were theCount’s favourite and he shot several dozen of them.On the other end of the plain, on the Mala gora Mountain over Zadlog, I runinto Zajčev Marjan; he worked as a forester on the plain of Trnovo for over 40years. The work could be inhumanly difficult and exhausting, but even thoughhis memories of the time are harsh, the smile never leaves his face. He tells meof another surprising and atypical feature of Trnovski gozd that has sadly onlybeen preserved in photographs and stories told by locals. Until 1945, when thispart of the country belonged to Italy, there was a windmill on Mala gora. It is truethat in the past and as recently as a century ago, there were plenty of windmillsin Slovenia. However, most of them could be found on Dravsko polje, in theŠtajerska region; I know that there was even a windmill on Koprivnik over Bohinj,but I had never heard of a windmill on the plain of Trnovo before. The windmillwas miller Filip Viktelič’s idea (his homestead was known locally as “Pri Košperju”,“At Košper’s”). He first saw windmills in Russia, where he was in the army; hedescribed them as “money carried into your hands on the wind” and when he64

tHE MAGICAL TRNOVSKI GOZDreturned home, he started working as a miller. Unfortunately, his career was cutshort by a severe injury to his arm that he sustained in the windmill.Another natural sight to be found on Mala gora is Kalarjev ledenik (Kalar glacier);under Italian rule, ice was carved out of the glacier and transported all the wayto Trieste. There is also a famous cave here, similarly covered in eternal ice andsnow – known as Velika ledena jama (Large ice cave) in Paradana, it has beendesignated a nature reserve. After the second half of the 19th century, the cavewas used to provide ice for Trieste, Gorizia and Rijeka. The ice even found its wayto Egypt as it was used to cool fruit exported from Gorizia, since this was a timebefore refrigerated storage had been invented. Like the Smrekova draga ravine– a forest and natural reserve along with Golaki – there is clear evidence here oftemperature and vegetation inversion. In general, it is relatively cold in Trnovskigozd, something you are constantly reminded of by the endless piles of firewoodat every step and in front of every house. The average annual temperature in thecentral part of the plain is 7 to 9°C; in addition to the high altitude (700 to 1495m), the cold is also due to the bora wind that blows from the plain in the directionof the sea. The bora is the reason behind another local particularity – unusualchimneys in the village of Kovk. The houses of old were covered by thatched roofsand kitchens had open fires or, later, poorly constructed chimneys; together withthe bora wind, this was a poor combination. The smallest spark, carried on thewind like a burning snowflake, was enough to start a fire in the roof. The problemwas solved by running smoke out of the kitchen through the ground and intothe chimney built behind the house. Three such chimneys have been preserved inKovk, two of which continue to be used today.Trnovski gozd can be so magical in its peaceful silence that it is difficult to convinceyourself to leave it. There are countless trails leading through it, includingtrails that will thoroughly confuse you and lead you in the wrong direction untilyou can hardly find your way back. I find them most enjoyable of all, since thereis nothing but animals, wind and your own thoughts to interrupt you there.You can visit Trnovski gozd on foot or by bicycle, but always remember to bringa good map, a compass or a GPS device. Visit Trnovski gozd to find your innerpeace and your own path. You might even find a new friend – who knows? Anddon’t let the beautiful lookout spots on Kopitnik, Poldanovec, Mrazovec, Čaven orSinji vrh be the end of your trip. Make them the beginning of brand new adventures,new trails and new stories hiding in Trnovski gozd just for you. Make it thebeginning of a new friendship!65

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GRAD ZAPRICEGRADZAPRICEMuzej, kjer je shranjenavečtisočletna zgodovina KamnikaBESEDILO: Polona ZupančičFOTOGRAFIJE: Blaž ZupančičKamnik je slikovitosrednjeveškomesto ob vznožjugora, ki v sebi skrivamarsikateri biser.Kraljujeta muVeliki in Mali grad,redkokdo pa poznagrad Zaprice, le malodvignjen nad staromestno jedro. Danestu domuje muzejobčin Kamnik,Trzin in Komenda,ki je brez dvomavreden ogleda.Srednjeveška zasnova samega gradiča se do danes ni bistveno spremenila,dodali so ji le dve stavbi za gospodarske prostore. Obdaja ga ograjenvrt, ki nudi zanimive poglede na Kamnik in okoliške očake. H graduspada tudi muzej na prostem, kjer so na ogled kašče, sem prenesene izTuhinjske doline. V samem gradu so v vseh treh nadstropjih razstavniprostori, pritličje pa je bilo letos prenovljeno. Na novo zasnovana muzejskarazstava Odsevi kamniških tisočletij nam še bolj slikovito in zanimivopredstavlja zgodovino Kamnika in okolice. Vsako obdobje od prazgodovinedo danes je pustilo tu sledi, ki so jih uspeli ohraniti, in nekateredragocenosti so danes prvič na ogled.Najprej nas pozdravi ogromen mamut, ki varuje jamo. Njegove 20.000 letstare kosti so bile najdene v Nevaljah pri Kamniku, hrani pa ga Prirodoslovnimuzej v Ljubljani. Tu lahko vidimo rebro in podlahtnico, najdenaleta 1910 v Kamniški Bistrici pod Mokrico.In zgodbe se začnejo vrstiti pred našimi očmi. Človek, ki se je tu naselilpred 5 do 6 tisoč leti, je prikazan v sliki in predmetih. Njegovo vsakdanježivljenje, rituali in spretnosti nam povedo, da je bil spreten in iznajdljiv,začudi pa nas, kako so starodavne sekire podobne našim. Posoda in nakitter orožje so iz časa bronaste in železne dobe.Ko vstopimo v prvo sobo, lahko na nazoren način spoznavamo življenjeRimljanov. Shramba, kuhinja in jedilnica ter hišni oltarček so ambienti, kičuvajo predmete častitljive starosti. Tudi rekonstrukcija sodarske delavniceiz 3. stoletja pokaže marsikatero podobnost z današnjimi delavnicami.Po naselitvi Slovanov se približamo nastanku mesta. Kamnik je enonajstarejših mest na Slovenskem, s pisnim virom iz leta 1143. Življenje nagradu in obrambo mesta spoznavamo preko predmetov in starih freskiz okoliških cerkva, predvsem sv. Primoža nad Kamnikom, kjer si jih lahkoogledamo v živo.67

GRAD ZAPRICEKot v starih časih se realnost prepleta z legendami, ki so še danes živemed tamkajšnimi ljudmi: o kruti princesi Veroniki, ki ni hotela pomagatiljudem in se je zakleta spremenila v kačo. Pa o jezeru, ki je odteklo, ookamenelemu lovcu, če naštejemo le najbolj znane. Ohranjena je tudipesem o Juriju Hajdniku, ki je 10 let trpel v ječi.Nasledja soba nas popelje skozi obzidje v mesto Kamnik. Popis obrtnikovna osnovi davčnega registra mesta Kamnik iz leta 1545 nam pove,s čim so se ukvarjali meščani. Razen vsakdanjih poklicev, ki so živi šedanes – pek, čevljar ali mesar –, jih je veliko že izumrlo – barvar, sedlar alipodkvar. V vitrinah so zbrani predmeti, ki so jih uporabljali v posameznihpoklicih. Množica različnih mer kaže, kako natančni so bili predpisi, pakako komplicirani!Mimo zakladne najdbe novcev iz Češnjic iz 16. stoletja in opisa trgovskihpoti skozi Tuhinjsko dolino pridemo v naslednjo sobo, v novejše čase. Nadesno vstopimo v cerkev, kjer ob tihi glasbi občudujemo dragocena kipastražarjev božjega groba in druge nabožne predmete. Na levi pa nasobdobje protireformacije pričaka z dragoceno Dalmatinovo Biblijo iz leta1584. Življenje meščanov in plemenitašev simbolizira ambient salona sportretom plemiča Jakoba Jošta Thurna iz prve polovice 17. stoletja.Kulturni razcvet 18. in 19. stoletja spoznavamo preko slikarstva, kiparstva,glasbe in arhitekture iz okolice.V zadnji sobi dominira figura Marije Terezije, ki je močno zaznamovalanašo zgodovino. Njene reforme so se dotaknile vseh področij življenja.Prva je dovolila hčeram, da dedujejo kmetije, pregnala je lakoto zuvedbo gojenja krompirja, zapirala samostane, uvedla obvezno šolanjein še marsikaj. Vse najpomembnejše reforme lahko preberemo v omari,ki simbolizira uvedbo uradništva v državi.Življenje podeželja predstavlja kmečka izba z etnološkimi predmeti iz 18.in 19. stoletja. V kotu pa se seznanimo z rokovnjači. To so bili razbojniki,večinoma ubežniki od vojakov, ki so se preživljali z ropanjem po vaseh incestah. Ohranjena je sodba proti njim in še žive legende. Imeli pa so tudisvoj jezik, ki ga lahko poslušamo ali pa polistamo po slovarju.Razstavni prostori so tudi v prvem in drugem nadstropju, kjer seseznanimo z življenjem kamniških meščanov in pastirjev z Velike planine.68

GRAD ZAPRICETu se odtisne novec ali potipa pravi pergament,tam se sestavi grad iz kock ali spremljatrgovca na potovanju. Izmerite se lahko vcentimetrih, pedeh ali čevljih, prisluhnetelegendam ali se spopadete z zapletenimrokovnjaškim jezikom.Muzej ima veliko dragocenih predmetov, predvsem pa je zanimiv za otroke. Razstava je zasnovanatako, da obiskovalci vseskozi aktivno sodelujejo pri spoznavanju zgodovine. Gledanje, poslušanje,otip, vse to pripomore k temu, da si zgodovinska dejstva igraje zapomnimo. Tu se odtisne novecali potipa pravi pergament, tam se sestavi grad iz kock ali spremlja trgovca na potovanju. Izmeritese lahko v centimetrih, pedeh ali čevljih, prisluhnete legendam ali se spopadete z zapletenimrokovnjaškim jezikom. Strokovne podrobnosti so skrite v računalniških zaslonih, še več zanimivostipa bosta povedali strokovni vodički, kustosinji razstave, direktorica Zora Torkar in arheologinjaJanja Železnik, ki sta razstavo skupaj z oblikovalko Polono Zupančič tudi zasnovali.Obisk gradu je gotovo zanimiv za celo družino. Če boste prišli kako lepo sončno soboto, se vamlahko zgodi, da boste srečali mladoporočenca, ki se bosta tu poročila. Morda jima boste kot naključnigostje prinesli srečo, kot pravijo Italijani.69

ZAPRICE CASTLEZAPRICE CASTLEThe museum where several thousand years of Kamnik’s history is keptTEXT: Polona zupančič PHOTOGRAPHY: blaž zupančičKamnik is a picturesque medieval city atthe foot of the mountains that hidesmany gems. It is dominated by the Greatand the Small Castle (Veliki in Mali grad),but few know about Zaprice Castle, whichis located just above the old city centre.Today, it houses the museum of the Municipalitiesof Kamnik, Trzin and Komendaand is definitely worth seeing.The medieval design of the small castle has not beenchanged in any significant way; only two buildingswere added to be used as commercial facilities. Itis surrounded by a garden that offers a great viewof Kamnik and the surrounding mountains. Thecastle also includes an outdoor museum wherevisitors can see granaries that were transferred herefrom the Tuhinjska Valley. The castle itself containsexhibition rooms on all three levels, and the groundfloor was renovated this year. The newly designedmuseum exhibition called The Reflections of Kamnik’sMillennia presents the history of Kamnik andthe surroundings in an even more picturesque andinteresting way. Each period from prehistory to thepresent has left its mark here, which its people havesucceeded in preserving. Some of those valuablesare on exhibit for the first time.First, you are greeted by an enormous mammothguarding a cave. Its 20,000 year old bones werefound in Nevalje near Kamnik and are now keptby the Slovenian Museum of Natural History.Here, visitors can see a rib and an ulna that werefound in 1910 in Kamniška Bistrica under theMokrica Mountain.From there, the stories begin unravelling beforeyour eyes. The first human who settled here 5 to6 thousand years ago is shown in pictures andthrough various objects. His everyday life, ritualsand skills tell us that he was skilful and inventive,and one can also be astonished how much theancient axes are similar to present day axes. Containers,jewellery and weapons from the Bronzeand the Iron Age are also included.By entering the first room, visitors get to knowthe life of the Romans in a vivid way. The pantry,70

ZAPRICE CASTLEkitchen and dining room and the home altar arethe ambient that guards objects of a venerable age.The reconstruction of the barrel workshop from the3rd century is also somewhat similar to present dayworkshops. After the settlement of the Slavs, visitorscome closer to the creation of the city. Kamnik isone of the oldest cities in Slovenia, mentioned in awritten source from 1143. Visitors get to know aboutlife in the castle and the defence of the city throughobjects and old frescos from the surroundingchurches, primarily the St. Primož nad Kamnikom,where visitors can see them on their own.As in old times, reality intertwines with legends thatare still alive among the people living here:About a cruel princess Veronica who did not wantto help people and was cursed and turned into asnake; about a lake that leaked out; about a hunterturned to stone and these are only the most knownstories. The Song of Jurij Hajdnik, who suffered in jailfor 10 years, is also preserved.The next room leads visitors through a wall into thecity of Kamnik. The list of craftsmen based on thetax register of Kamnik from 1545 tells us what thecitizens did for a living. Besides everyday professionsthat continue today such as baker, shoemaker orbutcher, many have become extinct: dyer, saddleror horseshoe-maker. Showcases contain objectsthat were used in individual professions. The greatnumber of various measures shows how exact theregulations were and how complicated.The path past the treasure of coins from Češnjicefrom the 16th century and the description of thetrade routes through the Tuhinjska Valley leads us tothe next room, into a more modern era. On the right,visitors can enter a church, where alongside quietmusic they can admire the statues of the guards ofthe holy grave and other religious objects. On theleft, the anti-Reformation period presents a valuableDalmatin Bible from 1584. The life of citizens andnobles is symbolised by the ambiance of the saloonwith a portrait of the noble Jakob Jošt Thurn fromthe first half of the 17th century.The cultural bloom of the 18th and the 19th centurycan be witnessed through the art of painting,statuary art, music and the architecture from thesurrounding area.In the last room, the most prominent spot belongsto the figure of Mary Theresa of Austria, who hada significant impact on our history. Her reformstouched on all areas of life. She was the first to allowdaughters to inherit farms, she drove away hungerby introducing the cultivation of the potato, sheclosed down cloisters and she introduced obligatoryschooling and many other reforms. All of her mostimportant reforms can be found listed in a closetthat symbolises the introduction of bureaucracy tothe country.The life in the country is represented by a farmchamber with ethnological objects from the 18thand 19th century. In the corner, visitors can find outabout “rokovnjači”. They were bandits, mostly desertersfrom the army, who survived by carrying out robberiesin villages and on the roads. What has beenpreserved of them is a judgement against them andlegends. They also had their own language, whichvisitors can get to know by listening or by leafingthrough their dictionary.Exhibition rooms are also located on the first andsecond levels, where visitors can get to know the lifeof the citizens of Kamnik and the shepherds from theVelika planina Mountain.The museum has many valuable objects and isinteresting primarily for children. The exhibition isdesigned so that the visitors can cooperate activelyin getting to know the history throughout themuseum. Watching, listening and feeling, all thishelps visitors to remember the historical informationbetter. Visitors can press a new coin, feel a realparchment, construct a castle out of cubes or followa trader on his journey. Visitors can measure theirheight in centimetres, spans or feet, listen to legendsor try to master the complex language of the“rokovnjači”. Expert details are hidden on computerscreens, but even more interesting details will be revealedby expert guides and the museum curator aswell as director Zora Torkar and archaeologist JanjaŽeleznik, who both designed the exhibition togetherwith Polona Zupančič.The visit to the castle will surely prove interesting forthe whole family. If you visit on a sunny Saturday,you might meet newlyweds getting married here.You might even bring them luck as coincidentalguests, as the Italians believe.Visitors can press a new coin, feel a realparchment, construct a castle out of cubes orfollow a trader on his journey. Visitors canmeasure their height in centimetres, spansor feet, listen to legends or try to masterthe complex language of the “rokovnjači”.71

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med bizeljskimi VinogradimED Bizeljskimivinogradiin repnicamiBESEDILO: MARJAN ŽIBERNAFOTOGRAFIJE: Boštjan PuceljTa zgodbica bi se lahko začela predleti – s spominom na čas, ki sem gaprebil v študentskem domu; imel sem'cimra', s katerim sva si bila močnorazlična. On je bil priden študent,ki ga je izbrani študij navduševal,medtem ko jaz za svojega nisem gojilnobenega zanimanja. Bil je visok,krepak fant, ki je na vrata omarelepil slike nabildanih mladcev inmladenk, sam pa sem občudovalvsakogar, ki se je spogledoval zmušjo kategorijo. Cimer je poslušalModern Talking, Duran Duran intake reči, jaz pa Floyde, Stonse, Partibrejkerse… Res sva bila oba kmečkafanta, kar bi morda lahko predstavljalostično točko, a kaj, ko mene,za razliko od njega, kmetijstvo nikaj dosti zanimalo. Pa sva kljub temrazlikam odlično shajala.Ko sem se priklatil domov, je on svojo muzikostišal, prav tako jaz svojo, ko je v sobo vstopilon. Ko je šel zvečer spat, sem, če sem bil doma,ugasnil luč, on pa je zjutraj, ko se je odpravljal napredavanja, hodil po prstih in previdno odpiralvrata, da me ne bi, zaspanca zaspanega, zbudil. Ino svojih domačih vinogradih se je rad razgovorils takim žarom, da sem vselej obsedel in ga nalastno presenečenje z zanimanjem poslušal terpovprašal po tem in onem v zvezi s pridelavovina. Seveda sva pri tem tudi popila kakšnosteklenico kapljice, ki jo je prinesel od doma. Obnjegovem govorjenju je imela povsem drugačenokus, kot bi ga imela sicer. Njegovo vino je biloodlično, kar so tisti, ki so vedeli, kaj je dobrovino, povedali ob vsaki priložnosti; meni, tedajzapriseženemu nezmernemu pivcu piva, pa jetakšno postalo ob njegovih besedah in razlagah.Moj sostanovalec je govoril o vinogradništvu innasploh o svojem rodnem Bizeljskem s takimnavdušenjem, da sem si velikokrat rekel: nekočmoram pomoliti svoj nos v njegovo zidanico inposkusiti kapljico, ki jo ima doma v velikih sodih;res moram obiskati te njegove vesele gorice inopevano Bizeljsko …73

med bizeljskimi VinogradiA saj vemo, koliko je stvari, ki jih nameravamonekoč napraviti, pa jih potem nikoli ne. Tudi vtem primeru bi kaj zlahka ostalo pri namenih.Leta potem, ko so se najini študentski časi iztekliin poti razšle, sem namreč po naključju popilkozarec izvrstnega vina in ob pogledu na etiketona steklenici presenečen ugotovil, da je iz kletimojega nekdanjega sostanovalca. Sklenil sem,da ga obiščem, a tudi ta sklep je zvodenel. Takoje minilo kar lepo število let, da je Bizeljsko, kisem ga prej poznal bolj ali manj le iz ’cimrovih’pripovedi, dobilo v mojih predstavah resničnopodobo. Ko so mi naročili, naj za ta konec Slovenijenapišem turistični vodnik, sem se podal poteh poteh; z zadovoljstvom sem ugotavljal, da sotamkajšnje gorice res takšne kot v mojih idiličnihpredstavah iz študentskih let, kar velja še posebejza jesenski čas. In lahko sem ugotovil še marsikajdrugega: denimo, da je območje dobilo svojesedanje ime po osnovi nemškega poimenovanjaWisell; Nemci so namreč tu ustanavljali vasi, a somnoge med njimi v 14. stoletju zaradi gospodarskekrize opustele. Pa da je Bizeljsko postalozibelka sodobnega slovenskega vinogradništvaskladno z latinskim rekom »Calamitas virtutisoccasio est« – »Nesreča je priložnost za vrlino«.V 80-ih letih 19. stoletja je namreč tukajšnjevinograde tako rekoč v celoti uničila trtna uš. Anapredni vinogradniki so se pri ponovnih zasaditvahravnali po novostih v pridelovanju vina inse lotili cepljenja trsa na ameriških podlagah. Žekmalu so se na Bizeljsko prihajali učit sodobnegavinogradništva tudi od drugod. Po težkih časih,ki so jih doživljali v letih obeh velikih vojn in tudimed njima, so si ti kraji sredi minulega stoletjaopomogli in Bizeljsko je zaslovelo s svojimiodličnimi vini, predvsem belimi.Bizeljsko oz. vinorodni okoliš Bizeljsko–Sremičima dolgo tradicijo in ugled v pridelavi vin.Na tukajšnjih gričih so gojili trto in iz njenegagrozdja pridelovali vino že pred dobrimi 600 leti;verjetno pa je tradicija še veliko starejša in segav čas rimljanskih naseljencev v prvih stoletjihnašega štetja. Tu so bili nekoč vinogradi različnihstarih sort trt, od katerih pa se je ohranil lerumeni plavec, ki je še vedno priljubljen. Danespridelujejo različna sortna vina, ki pogosto pobirajonagrade in sodijo po mnenju poznavalcevmed najboljša slovenska vina. Za širši vinorodniokoliš so značilni modra frankinja, beli in modripinot ter laški rizling pozne trgatve, samoBizeljsko pa je znano tudi po rdečem in belembizeljčanu, vinih s priznanim tradicionalnimpoimenovanjem. Prav gotovo velja omeniti tudipenino, ki jo pridelujejo nekateri vinogradniki.Zlasti uveljavljena je penina družine Isteničiz Stare vasi. Ta družina se je kot prvi zasebniproizvajalec penin v Sloveniji lotila njeneproizvodnje v 60. letih minulega stoletja.Povsem mogoče, celo zelo verjetno je, dami je o teh stvareh pripovedoval že mojštudentski kolega, a si jih nisem zapomnil.Manj verjetno pa se mi zdi, da bi me poučilše o neki drugi zanimivosti iz teh krajev – orepnicah. Tedaj namreč ti prostori za shranjevanješe niso imeli tako ugledne naloge, kotjo opravljajo danes. Repnice – jame, skopanev pesek, ki ga je v pradavnini naneslo semPanonsko morje –, so posebnost Bizeljskega. Vnanose kremenovega peska so začeli kmetježe pred stoletji, verjetno pa še veliko prej,kopati podzemne shrambe. V njih so shranjevalisvoje pridelke, največ repo, ki je botrovalanjihovemu poimenovanju. Zbiti nanosi peskatudi zelo dobro zadržujejo vodo, tako dablagodejno vplivajo na kmetijstvo, vključno zvinogradništvom, saj preprečujejo izsuševanjetal. Danes vinogradniki uporabljajo mnogestare ali na novo izkopane repnice – nekateresegajo deset in celo več metrov globoko – zashranjevanje vina. Zanje sta značilni dokajkonstantna temperatura, običajno od 5 do10⁰ C, in kljub prezračevanju in krožečemuzraku tudi stalno visoka vlažnost. Prav visokavlažnost je razlog, da dodatni gradbeni materialipri kopanju repnic niso potrebni, saj vlagamedsebojno veže kremenčev pesek, prav takopa tudi preprečuje izsuševanje plutovinastihzamaškov na vinskih steklenicah.74

med bizeljskimi Vinogradi75

med bizeljskimi VinogradiTak način shranjevanja vina je postal privlačna posebnost, zato somnoge repnice, ki služijo kot vinske kleti, odprte za obiskovalce, nekatereso tudi vključene v Bizeljsko-Sremiško vinsko turistično cesto.Obisk take repnice je, lahko povemiz izkušnje, izjemno prijetnastvar: o kakovosti vina je dvomodveč, kmečke dobrote, s katerimisi obložite notranjost želodca,da ne bi pili na tešče, so odlične,družba že kar kmalu prijetno razigrana,podzemni prostor pa seizkaže še s posebno akustiko inkar zgrabi vas, da od sameganavdušenja zapojete …Povsem mogoče, da niste najbolj poklicani za to, a pomanjkanje posluhaz lahkoto nadomestite z voljo do njega. No, vsaj sam zase lahko to rečem.Kakšni Pink Floydi vam v tem okolju res ne morejo pasti na pamet, boljverjetno En hribček bom kupil. Kar je čisto na mestu izbira – na Bizeljskemje namreč nekaj časa služboval Anton Martin Slomšek, škof, ki ga je Cerkevže spoznala za blaženega, tako da je sedaj na čakalni listi za razglasitevza svetnika. Slomšek je bil mož, ki se je denimo zavzemal za trdo vzgojootrok in Bogu všečno življenje, zaradi česar mu je njegov sodobnik FrancePrešeren namenil ostro zbadljivko. A škof se je očitno znal tudi udobrovoljiti:En hribček bom kupil je pesmica – kar ni prav široko znano –, ki jo jenapisal prav on.Ko se že znajdete na tem koncu, si velja ogledati še nekaj stvari, ki pričajo ozgodovini teh krajev. Denimo zasebno etnografsko zbirko v kraju Bizeljskopa grad Pišece, ki stoji na pobočju nad vasjo z istim imenom, kjer imajo tudimanjši kovaški muzej, pa grad Bizeljsko, kjer danes živi družina Klakočar–Wisell,ki se že desetletja uspešno ukvarja z vinogradništvom. Njihovabogata vinska klet je ogleda vredna, a če vprašate mene, se človek v repnici,preurejeni v vinsko shrambo, počuti najbolje. Borih nekaj metrov podzemeljskim površjem se zdijo vsakovrstne tegobe, ki sicer jedkajo in cefrajoutrujene živce, neznansko daleč. Nobenih zagotovil ni, da vas nadloge, kopomolite glavo spet na svetlo, ne bi potrpežljivo čakale, a se zdijo nekakomanj zoprne, bolj znosne, lažje obvladljive …76

Among the vineyardsAmong the Vineyardsand Root Cellars ofBizeljskoTEXT: mARJAN ŽIBERNA Photography: BOŠTJAN PUCELJThis little story could have started many years ago; I amthinking of the time that I spent at the student halls ofresidence, where I had a roommate who was completelydifferent than me. He was a dedicated student, who wasenthusiastic about his studies, while I had absolutely nointerest in mine. He was the tall, athletic type, and he usedto put pictures of fit young men and women up on hiswardrobe doors, while I had a strong preference for theflyweight category. My roommate liked Modern Talking,Duran Duran and similar bands, while I listened to PinkFloyd, The Rolling Stones, Partibrejkers... We both had afarming background that might have served as commonground between us if only I (unlike him) had had theslightest interest in agriculture. But despite our manydifferences, we got along great.When I came home, he would turn down the music that he was listening to,and I would do the same whenever he came into the room. When he wentto bed in the evening, I would turn out the light if I was home; when he wasgetting ready for lectures in the morning, he would tiptoe around the roomand open the door quietly so as not to wake me up. And he used to love talkingabout his family vineyards – he was so enthusiastic about them that to mysurprise I found myself captivated by the subject; I always listened to him withgenuine interest and asked questions to find out more about the process ofmaking wine. Obviously, during these conversations we also enjoyed a bottleof wine that he brought with him from home. Listening to him talk addedsomething special to the taste of the wine. People who know quality winewhen they taste it never missed an opportunity to stress that the wines producedby my roommate's family were simply superb; my preference at the timewas for drinking large quantities of beer, but thanks to our discussions and hisexplanations, I always enjoyed the wines that he brought with him. My roommateused to talk about wine-growing and about Bizeljsko, his native region,with such enthusiasm that I would often say to myself, “one day I really haveto stop by his wine cellar and try a drop of the stuff he keeps in the big barrelsthere; I just have to visit these vineyards of his and the famed Bizeljsko...”But we all know how these things go – we have the best intentions of doingsomething, but then we never come around to actually doing it. In my case,I came very close to never acting on my intentions. Years later, long afterwe had both finished our studies and gone our separate ways, I happenedto enjoy an excellent glass of wine; looking at the label on the bottle, I wassurprised to discover that it came from my former roommate's cellar. Again Idecided to pay him a visit, and again I gradually forgot about my intention.77

Among the vineyards78A great many years passed before I finally saw for myself the Bizeljsko regionthat I had known about more or less solely through my roommate's stories. Itwasn't until I was asked to write a tourist guide covering that part of Sloveniathat I finally headed there. I was happy to find that, especially in autumn,the Bizeljsko vineyards really did look exactly like in the idyllic pictures thatI had imagined during my student years. I also found a number of otherthings such as that the modern name for this region developed from its oldGerman name, Wisell; Germans once built several villages here, but many ofthem were abandoned in the 14th century due to an economic crisis. I alsolearnt that Bizeljsko became the birthplace of modern Slovenian viticulturein keeping with a Latin proverb that states, "Calamitas virtutis occasio est"or "Calamity is virtue's opportunity". You see, in the 1880s, the local vineyardswere almost entirely destroyed by the wine louse. Fortunately, theforward-thinking local wine-growers learnt about the latest developmentsin viticulture and replanted their vineyards with vines grafted onto Americanroots. Soon, people came to Bizeljsko from far and wide to learn about themodern methods of wine-growing. After the difficult times suffered by thisregion during and between the two world wars, Bizeljsko finally recovered inthe mid-20th century and quickly gained a reputation for producing qualitywines, particularly white varieties.Bizeljsko or, more accurately, the Bizeljsko-Sremič wine-growing region has along tradition and established reputation when it comes to producing wine.It is certain that as many as 600 years ago vines were grown here and wineswere produced from their grapes; however, the local wine-producing traditionis likely to be even older than that, probably dating back to the time of Romansettlers in the first centuries AD. Various old varieties of vines were once grownhere, of which only the still-popular Rumeni Plavec (Yellow Plavec) has beenpreserved. Today there are a number of varietal wines produced in the region;they frequently win awards and are considered by experts to be some of thefinest wines in Slovenia. The wines most characteristic of the wider wine-growingregion are Blaufränkisch, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir and late harvest Welschriesling,while Bizeljsko itself is also known for red and white Bizeljčan, wineswith recognised traditional denomination. The sparkling wines produced bysome wine-growers also deserve a mention. The sparkling wine produced bythe Istenič family from Stara vas is particularly well established. With productionthat started in the 1960s, the Istenič family was Slovenia's first privateproducer of sparkling wines.It is entirely possible – very likely even – that my old roommate told me aboutall of these things back in the day and I had simply forgotten about them. Butit is less likely that he also told me about another interesting tradition that hasbeen kept alive in this region: the root cellar, known locally as "repnica" ("turnipcellar"). Back then, these storage holes were used for much less importantpurposes than they serve today. Root cellars are caves dug into the sand thatwas deposited here by the Pannonian Sea in prehistoric times; they are a localcharacteristic of Bizeljsko. Many centuries ago, farmers started digging intoquartz sand deposits to create underground storage spaces. These caves wereused to store the produce, usually turnips, which gave the cellars their originalname. The sand deposits are so tightly packed that they hold water extremelywell and prevent the ground from drying out, which is obviously beneficial forviticulture and agriculture in general. In addition to digging out new root cellars,some as deep as 10 m or more, wine-growers today also continue to usemany of the old root cellars for storing wine. These cellars maintain a constanttemperature between 5 and 10°C and a consistently high level of humiditydespite the ventilation and circulation of air. When making a root cellar, thereis no need for other construction materials thanks to the moisture that bindsthe quartz sand together and prevents the cork stoppers in wine bottles fromdrying out.This method of storing wine has become an appealing peculiarity and manyof the root cellars that are used as wine cellars are open to visitors, while someare even included in the Bizeljsko-Sremič wine road.

Among the vineyardsSpeaking from experience, I can tell you that a visit to one of these rootcellars is highly enjoyable: obviously there is the fine wine, but thereare also delicious rustic dishes to line your stomach with beforedrinking, there is always lively and cheerful company and theunderground space has excellent acoustics that will make youwant to sing for joy...You might not be the best person for it, but any lack in talent can easily bereplaced by a sufficient amount of enthusiasm. At least that is what I'vefound. It is true that bands like Pink Floyd are not the most appropriatechoice in these surroundings and that you are more likely to launch intosomething like En hribček bom kupil ("I Will Buy a Small Hill"), a traditionalSlovenian drinking song, but there is nothing wrong with that choice –Bizeljsko is the very region where Anton Martin Slomšek worked for sometime. Slomšek was a Slovenian bishop who has been beatified by theChurch and is now on the waiting list to become a saint. In his life, Slomšekwas a God-fearing man who believed in the strict upbringing of children,which even earned him a short but taunting poem from his contemporary,the great poet France Prešeren. However, it seems that the bishop also knewhow to have fun: it is a little known fact that he was the very person whowrote En hribček bom kupil.If you find yourself in this part of Slovenia, there are a few other things worthseeing that will help you to discover the history of the region. There is forinstance the private ethnology collection in the town of Bizeljsko; the PišeceCastle, which is situated on a slope overlooking the village of Pišece, whereyou will also find a small blacksmithing museum; and the Bizeljsko Castle,today the home of the Klakočar-Wisells, a successful wine-growing familywith decades of tradition. Their abundantly stocked wine cellar is well worthseeing, but if you ask me, there is no place more enjoyable than an old rootcellar that has been converted into a wine cellar. A few metres below thesurface of the earth, the many worries that torture and fray your wearynerves every single day will suddenly seem to disappear. Of course there is noguarantee that your troubles won't be there waiting patiently for you whenyou return to the surface, but somehow they will seem less worrisome andmore bearable and easily managed...79

080BESEDILO: Klemen ŽunFOTOGRAFIJE: Muzej novejše zgodovine SlovenijeLJUBLJANSKI KINOPARADIŽ

OdzačetnihdozlatihčasovkinematografovZ razstavo »Kino Paradiž« smo vMuzeju novejše zgodovine Slovenijeobudili utrinke iz zlatih časovdelovanja kinematografov v Ljubljani,ko so blagajne zaznamovalevenomer dolge vrste in številnerazprodane predstave, ko so filmemnogih držav in raznolikih žanrovpospremile slavnostne premiere,ko so delovala filmska gledališčater letni kinematografi in ko jebilo navdušenje nad podobami sfilmskega platna mogoče doživljatitudi ob listanju mnogih filmskihrevij, ob zbiranju sličic in razglednicigralcev. To je bil čas breztelevizije, videa in računalnikov tertudi čas, ko so bile žive podobe šegigantskih dimenzij, kinodvoranapa čarobni raj, ki je povezoval ljudivseh starosti in družbenih slojev.81

ljubljanski kino paradižStalni kinematografi so se pred prvo svetovno vojno pojavili tudi vdrugih večjih slovenskih krajih, kot so Maribor, Ptuj, Kranj, Postojnain Koper, po njihovi zaslugi pa se je film tako kmalu ustalil kotcenovno dostopno zabavišče za najširše ljudske množice.Letos mineva natanko 50 let, odkar je bilo v Sloveniji zabeleženih največdelujočih kinematografov. Najimenitnejši novinec izmed 265 aktivnihkinodvoran je takrat postal Kino Šiška, ki je daleč naokoli slovel po velikanskemplatnu v širini kar 14,5 metra. V Ljubljani je leta 1962 na Gospodarskemrazstavišču delovala tudi mega kinodvorana s kar 1.724 sedeži, vmedijih pa so potekali ogorčeni boji za ustanovitev kinotečne dvorane (taje dočakala prvo projekcijo leto kasneje). Izhajati je začela tudi še danesprisotna filmska revija Ekran, Iskrini konstruktorji pa so v Kranju razvijali prviavtomatski kinoprojektor, ki je nato dočakal svojo premierno predstavo velitnem Kinu Union. Tega leta so številni kino obiskovalci v večini dvoranslovenske prestolnice ugledali tudi filmske projekcije preko žarnic s plemenitimplinom ksenonom, ki so kot kakovostnejši in varčnejši vir osvetljevanjafilmskega platna izrinile izgorevanje kino oglja in so v veljavi še danes.Izjemni kinematografski dosežki izpred petih desetletij so bili direkten –četudi že nekoliko zapoznel – odgovor na sam vrh najbolj intenzivnegakino doživljanja, ko smo v letih 1959 in 1960 beležili v Sloveniji rekordnoštevilo kino obiskovalcev – skoraj 17,2 milijona.Neponovljiva kinomanija, ki je v največji meri zaznamovala prav družbenoživljenje osrednjih let preteklega stoletja, pa s koreninami oz. prvim javnimprikazovanjem filmov sega še v stoletje poprej. Če je v svetu zaznamovalata dogodek projekcija bratov Lumière v Parizu ob koncu decembra leta1895, je za prvo predstavo gibljivih slik pri nas poskrbel potujoči Edisonovkinetograf, ki je 24. oktobra leta 1896 ob projekciji s plinsko lučjo gostil enajstkratkih filmov v Pivnici Götz v Mariboru, v obdobju enega meseca pa nato šev salonu hotela Pri belem volu v Celju in v salonu hotela Pri Maliču v Ljubljani.V nadaljnjih letih so naše kraje obiskali tudi drugi veliki potujoči kinematografiin prirejali predstave v kavarnah, hotelih, cirkuških šotorih in drugod.Prvi kinematografi s stalnim programom so leta 1905 postali v ZDA»kinematografi za groš« (nickelodeoni), pri nas pa gre te zasluge vsaj delno82

ljubljanski kino paradižpripisati uspešnemu ljubljanskemu fotografu Davorinu Rovšku, ki je pričelže aprila 1906 s stalnim filmskim programom v veliki dvorani hotela Union.Zaradi slabega obiska in visoke najemnine je Rovškovo »senzacionalnogledališče živih podob« prenehalo s projekcijami, podobno usodo pa jenato Rovšek doživel še v hotelu Ilirija in tudi v dvorani katoliškega doma.Prvi uspešen stalni kinematograf je tako postal Kino Edison v Ljubljani leta1907, njegov lastnik, italijanski poslovnež Anton Deghenghi, pa je letokasneje v Ljubljani na vrtu že omenjenega hotela Pri Maliču otvoril še prviletni kinematograf The Elite Biograf. Opremo slednjega so kmalu natoprenesli v stavbo in tam ustanovili leta 1909 še stalni kinematograf Ideal, kije bil približno na lokaciji še danes delujočega Kina Komuna.Stalni kinematografi so se pred prvo svetovno vojno pojavili tudi v drugihvečjih slovenskih krajih, kot so Maribor, Ptuj, Kranj, Postojna in Koper,po njihovi zaslugi pa se je film tako kmalu ustalil kot cenovno dostopnozabavišče za najširše ljudske množice. Kasneje je v času svetovnegospodarske krize, ki je prizadela tudi Kraljevino Jugoslavijo, kino ponujaluteho in odmor od vsakdanjih skrbi, po letu 1930 pa so priljubljenostčarobnih slik okrepili še prvi zvočni filmi. Tega leta je namreč ljubljanskiKino Matica, ki je deloval v stavbi Slovenske filharmonije, kot prvipredstavil obiskovalcem zvok s filmom Pojoči norec (The Singing Fool),še v istem in prihajajočem letu pa so dobili zvočno opremo vsi večjiljubljanski in drugi slovenski kinematografi. Posebno mesto je v istemdesetletju zavzemal tudi novonastali ljubljanski Kino Union. Bil je namrečedini slovenski kinematograf, ki je v tem času prikazoval tuje filme sslovenskimi podnapisi, zasluge za to pa ima Milan Kham, ki je priskrbelnapravo za podnaslavljanje.V času druge svetovne vojne so se lastniki kinematografov prilagajali razmeramokupacije, zato sta v repertoarju prednjačili predvsem italijanska innemška filmska produkcija, prva leta po osvoboditvi pa sovjetska. Političnerazmere so takrat narekovale tudi podržavljanje in naglo širjenje kinematografov,število le teh pa se je v slabih desetih letih po drugi svetovni vojnipotrojilo tako v Ljubljani kot tudi Sloveniji.Podobna ugotovitev velja tudi za število obiskovalcev, veliko zaslug prieksplozivni kinofikaciji pa je imelo predvsem kranjsko podjetje Iskra, kije z domačimi kinoprojektorji in pripadajočimi akustičnimi napravamioskrbovalo kinematografe širom Jugoslavije. Prvi takšen projektor somontirali decembra leta 1948 v kabini ljubljanskega Kina Kodeljevo(kasnejši Kino Triglav), Ljubljana pa se je v nekdanji državi ponašala tudis prvim povojnim letnim kinom (Kino Tivoli), leta 1955 pa tudi s prvimiprojekcijami filmov še danes standardnih formatov: widescreen v KinuUnion in cinemascope v Kinu Vič. V kinodvorani Doma Maksa Perca je v 50.letih deloval prvi jugoslovanski mladinski kino, naziv edinega otroškegakina v državi pa je pozneje pripadel Kinu Mojca. Veliko zaslug za številnekinematografske dosežke je imelo pri tem »Kinematografsko podjetjeLjubljana« (pozneje »Ljubljanski kinematografi«), ki je upravljalo z večinobolje obiskanih kinodvoran, kot so bili Kino Komuna, Sloga, Vič, Šiška inpredvsem Kino Union, ki je v 60. letih kot edini slovenski kino letno privabilpreko milijon navdušencev.Zlatim časom pestre 116-letne zgodovine domače reproduktivne kinematografijepa usoda ni namenila daljšega življenja. Že v drugi polovici50. let so tudi slovenski kinematografi občutili udarec televizije. Udobjudomačega kavča se je v 80. letih pridružil še video z možnostjo izbirefilmskih vsebin, v zadnjem desetletju pa ekskluzivnost kina najhuje ogrožainternet. Kinematografi v Ljubljani in tudi širom Slovenije so se, da bipreživeli, v novem tisočletju preselili v velikanske komplekse več dvoranz najsodobnejšo projekcijsko tehniko, zgodba nekdanjih kinematografov,ki so desetletja na svojevrsten način navduševali in osrečevali milijonetako preprostih kot tudi zahtevnejših ljubiteljev filma, pa ostaja zgodba onekdanjem kino paradižu.83

This year marks exactly 50 years since Slovenia recorded the peaknumber of cinemas in operation. Kino Šiška became the finest newcomeramong the 265 active cinemas at the time, enjoying a wide-reachingreputation for its huge 14.5 metre screen. At the Ljubljana Exhibitionand Convention Centre in 1962, there was also a “mega cinema” with asmany as 1,724 seats, while the media saw a bitter struggle in an attemptto establish a Cinémathèque (which began showing its first film projectionsthe following year). The still-existing film magazine Ekran appearedfor the first time and Iskra’s constructors in Kranj were developing the firstautomatic film projector, which saw its premier show in the elite KinoUnion cinema. That year, the many cinemagoers in the majority of thecinemas in the Slovenian capital saw film projections that were madeusing lamps containing xenon. This noble gas was a higher quality andmore efficient source of lighting for film screens that replaced charcoaland is still in use today.The exceptional cinematic achievements from five decades ago werea direct – albeit somewhat late – response to the peak of the cinema’spopularity, with Slovenia seeing a record number of cinemagoers in 1959and 1960 – nearly 17.2 million.The unrepeatable “cinema mania” that fundamentally marked the sociallife of the 1950s has roots that extend back to the previous century, tothe first public film showings. If this event was marked in the world bythe Lumière brothers’ projection in Paris at the end of December 1895,the first moving picture show in our country was done using Edison’stravelling Kinetograph, which used a gas lamp to show eleven shortfilms in Maribor’s Götz Pub on 24 October 1896, followed by projectionsin the salon of the Pri belem volu hotel in Celje and the Pri Maliču hotel inLjubljana over the following month. In the years that followed, our landswere visited by other great travelling Kinetographs, which organisedshows in cafés, hotels, circus tents and elsewhere.LJUBLJANA’S CINEMAPARADISEFrom the Beginnings to the GoldenEra of CinemaTEXT: Klemen ŽunPHOTOGRAPHY: National Museum of Contemporary HistoryWith the Kino Paradiž (Cinema Paradise) exhibition, theSlovenian National Museum of Contemporary History isbringing back moments from the golden era of the cinemasoperating in Ljubljana, when box offices were marked byconstant long queues, numerous sold-out shows, whenthere were gala premieres to accompany films from manycountries and of various genres, when film theatres andoutdoor cinemas still existed and when it was possible torelive the excitement of the images from the film screen bybrowsing through the many film magazines, collectingpictures and postcards of actors. This was a time when therewere no TV sets, video or computers, a time when the livingpictures were still gigantic in proportions and the cinemawas a magical paradise that linked people of all ages andsocial classes.Nickelodeons, the first cinemas to feature a permanent programme, appearedin the US in 1905. In our lands this can, at least in part, be creditedto the successful Ljubljana-based photographer Davorin Rovšek, wholaunched a permanent film programme in the grand hall of the UnionHotel in April 1906. Due to a lack of customers and high rents, Rovšek’s“sensational theatre of living images” was forced to shut down, a fateit shared with the ones in the Ilirija Hotel and in the hall of a Catholichome. The first successful permanent cinema appeared in Ljubljana –Kino Edison in 1907. Its owner, the Italian businessman Anton Deghenghi,opened the first outdoor cinema a year later in Ljubljana, called TheElite Biograf, in the garden of the above-mentioned Pri Maliču hotel. Theequipment of the outdoor cinema was soon moved inside the building,creating a permanent cinema called Ideal in 1909, which operated in approximatelythe same location as today’s still-operational Kino Komuna.Before the First World War, permanent cinemas began springing up inother larger Slovenian towns such as Maribor, Ptuj, Kranj, Postojna andKoper, and it is thanks to them that film became considered affordableentertainment for the broadest masses so quickly. Later on, during theglobal economic crisis that also affected the Kingdom of Yugoslavia, thecinema offered consolation and a break from the daily worries, and after1930 the popularity of the magic pictures was solidified by the first soundfilms. It was this same year that Ljubljana’s Kino Matica, operating in theSlovenian Philharmonic Orchestra building, became the first to show itsvisitors a sound film, namely The Singing Fool. All the larger cinemas inLjubljana and Slovenia received sound equipment within the same yearor in the years that followed. In that decade, the newly-built Kino Unionin Ljubljana held a very special title: it was the only Slovenian cinema atthe time to show foreign films with Slovenian subtitles, thanks to MilanKham who provided a device for subtitling.84

Ljubljana's cinema paradiseDuring the Second World War, cinema ownersadapted to the fact that the country was occupied,which is why the film repertoire mostlyfeatured Italian and German film production,followed by Soviet films in the years immediatelyafter the liberation. The political situation atthe time dictated nationalisation and the rapidspread of cinemas, which resulted in their numberstripling in Ljubljana and Slovenia a mere tenyears after the Second World War.A similar finding applies to the number of visitors;a majority of the credit for the explosive “cinematisation”goes to the Kranj-based companyIskra, who supplied cinemas across Yugoslaviawith its own film projectors and correspondingsound devices. The first of these projectors wasinstalled in the cabin of Ljubljana’s Kino Kodeljevo(the later Kino Triglav) in December 1948.Ljubljana was the first place in Yugoslavia tofeature an outdoor cinema (Kino Tivoli) after thewar and in 1955 the first to offer film projectionsin formats that are still standard: widescreen inKino Union and cinemascope in Kino Vič. Thefirst Yugoslavian youth cinema was housed inthe Dom Maksa Perca building in the 1950s, butthe title of the only children’s cinema in the countrylater went to Kino Mojca. Much of the creditfor the many cinematographic achievementsgoes to the company Kinematografsko podjetjeLjubljana (later Ljubljanski kinematografi), whomanaged most of the more popular cinemassuch as Kino Komuna, Sloga, Vič, Šiška and mostof all Kino Union, which was the only Sloveniancinema to attract over a million fans on a yearlybasis in the 1960s.However, fate did not decree a longer life for thegolden times of the rich 116-year history of Sloveniancinematography. As early as the secondhalf of the 1950s, the Slovenian cinemas werebeginning to feel the impact of television. In the1980s, the comfort of the home couch was joinedby video with a choice of film content, while theInternet has become the biggest threat to theexclusivity of the cinema in the last decade. In orderto survive in the new millennium, cinemas inLjubljana and throughout Slovenia moved intohuge multiplexes featuring the most advancedprojection technology, while the story of pastcinemas that thrilled and excited millions of filmlovers in their own way for decades – both thosewith simpler tastes and those more demanding –remains the story of a bygone cinema paradise.Before the First World War, permanent cinemas began springing up inother larger Slovenian towns such as Maribor, Ptuj, Kranj, Postojnaand Koper, and it is thanks to them that film became consideredaffordable entertainment for the broadest masses so quickly.85

086EGIPTBESEDILO: GORAZD DOMINKO FOTOGRAFIJA: ANJA ČOPVsako leto se znova in znovarojeva želja po obisku Egipta inprav zanimivo, obisk nikoli ne razočara.Najverjetneje tudi zato,ker so stkane prijateljske vezinadomestile hojo za vodnikovo»marelo« in so njeni prepoznavniznaki –piramide, ostanki templejevin z zgodovino prežet pesek – le šekulisa ob aromatičnem karkadejuin vodni pipi. Da je Egipt prizoriščebogatih, zapletenih inglobokomoralnih zgodb, ki sebiin ljudem, s katerimi živi, zastavljatežka vprašanja in nalagazahtevne naloge, bo najlažjeprebrati v vrsticah, ki sledijo;pa tudi, da je lahko ljubezendo Egipta tako trdna kot obsrečnem koncu protagonistovv trivialnih žepnih romanihAmande Quick.!Adria Airways v sodelovanju sturističnima agencijama Kompas inPalmo leti v Egipt enkrat tedensko.

egiptZaradi Egipta ob otroštvoSlovenski stiki z Egiptom so v devetnajstem indvajsetem stoletju dodobra spremenili ali oklestilislovenske družine, katerih matere so odhajale vAleksandrijo in Kairo, misleč, da se bodo, ko bodenarja dovolj, vrnile. Pred časom predvajanidokumentarec slovenskega scenarista in režiserjaMetoda Pevca je ob pretresljivih pričevanjihnesrečnih potomcev pokazal, da se iz obljubljenedežele največkrat ni bilo več želje ali priložnostivrniti, in tako so pogosto odrasli kot sirote, ki sedanes ob besedi Egipt raje obrnejo vstran. Inkdo bi jim zameril?! Čeprav je Slovencem Egiptgeografsko blizu, je njegova podoba dolgotemeljila na strahu pred neznanim, piše profesorZmago Šmitek v članku »Egipt – dežela slovenskefascinacije«. Tudi zaradi prepričanja o magičnihsposobnostih tamkajšnjih ljudi. In včasih res znajoubiti s pogledom …88

egiptPravilo desne (-ga)Ko se človek vozi v dotrajanem vagonu od severaproti jugu skozi egipčansko podeželje, si ni težkopredstavljati, da je v zgodbi Agathe Christie. Železnicetečejo skozi toliko strani njenih knjig in nitežko ugotoviti, od kod navdih za bridke odhode,nepričakovana srečanja, žalostna spoznanja,vznemirljiva odkritja in srečne konce. Da, Egipt jeprizorišča bogatih, zapletenih in globokomoralnihzgodb, ki sebi in ljudem, s katerimi živi, zastavljatežka vprašanja in nalaga zahtevne naloge.Ne gre soditi vseh po istem kopitu in zagotovo jeodstotek tistih, ki želijo z bledičnimi in tujegovorečimikljub zbijanju cen skleniti nepošten posel,relativno visok, a nekaj je tudi takih, ki si želijo lenovic iz belega sveta in spoštljiv odnos. Vljudnorokovanje, močan stisk roke in odločen, direktenpogled v oči. Zaleže. In ne, to niso besede učiteljatamkajšnjega bontona, le dejstvo, s katerimje moč stkati trdno prijateljstvo. Seveda moraobstajati želja, navdušenje nad njihovim načinomživljenja, tudi čas je pri tej enačbi pomembendejavnik. In čeravno se zdi, da ne bomo nikoliprišli do njenega rezultata, saj se je morda zalomilo– če ne drugje, pri neverbalni komunikaciji –,zmota ni bila nikoli večja. Drži, darila je pametnosprejemati ali podarjati z desno roko, podplatezakriti in nog ne prekrižati, a odpuščanje je enatemeljnih vrlin, ki jih uči islam.Egipt = soukPotepanje po arabskih deželah ne bi smelominiti brez obiska vsaj enega souka – tržnice,kjer se od vsakdanjika utrujene oči kljubštevilnim dražljajem živih barv spočijejo inspoznajo, kaj vse smo v bitki s časom izgubili.Denimo, ljubezen in spoštovanje ročnega delain spretnosti, ki v Egiptu že stoletja prehajajo izroda v rod. Bi znali zgraditi piramido iz žafrana,pekoče paprike ali v severnoafriški kuhinjinepogrešljive harise, ostre rdeče začimbe, ki jokot dodatek juhi in prilogo kuskusu pogostouporabljajo? Mislite, da bi bili spretnejši prioblikovanju keramike, četudi brez vretena,zaupajoč le izrednemu občutku rok in nog?Rokodelci dosegajo v nekaterih dejavnostihumetniško raven, vendar ta počasi, a vztrajnoizgublja vrednost. Da je trgovina v Egiptuprevzela prednost v tekmi z obrtniki, ni nobenaskrivnost. Rokodelci ene bolj naseljenih držav vAfriki so klonili pred dobrinami z vzhoda, saj jetamkajšnja številčnejša delovna sila cenejša inpredvsem učinkovitejša. A zahvaljujoč Nilu imaEgipt vseeno nekaj avtentičnih rokodelcev, denimoizdelovalce papirusa iz rastline enakegaimena, ki uspeva na močvirnatih tleh najdaljšereke na svetu. Enake dele narezanega polagajodrugega poleg drugega. Nato jih obtežijo, da iznjih izteka lepljiva tekočina. Ko se posuši, je časza motive starega Egipta. In tu je še alabaster;danes drugačen prosojni mineral kot v časih,ko so vanj shranjevali faraonove posmrtneostanke, a še vedno ličen. Lepo ga je imeti,ujetega v namizni lučki na nočni omarici, invedeti, da je vsaj del Egipta samo tvoj.Podvodni safariČe kje, potem arabske pomladi prav gotovoni (bilo) čutiti pod morsko gladino Sharm ElSheikha, Dahaba, Hurgade in Mars Alama. Rdečemorje je široko, globoko, neskončno, podobnoljubeči materi. Vanj se je najlepše potopiti brezmisli, ki bi utegnile zmotiti občutek neskončnostiin povezanosti z bogatim morskim življemin najlepše ohranjenimi koralnimi grebeni,največkrat dotikajoč se pustih in neporaščenihsanjskih plaž. Tako ni potrebno daleč in globoko,da bi denimo družno plavali proti toku z želvo,se dotaknili morske krave ali iz varnega zavetjakoral, razgrnjenih v veliko raznobarvno pahljačo,opazovali veličastnega kitovca ali jato sivihgrebenskih morskih psov, pred katerimi običajnoni potrebno »bežati«, saj je prav to tisto, kar obnaključnih srečanjih s potapljači počno oni.89

EgYptEGYPTTEXT: gORAZD DOMINKO PHOTOGRAPHY: ANJA ČOPThe desire to visit Egypt again comesover me every single year, but themost interesting thing is that thetrip never lets me down. This isprobably because guided tours havebeen replaced by friends that I havemade there, and the country's mostrecognisable features – pyramids,temple ruins and even the sand that’simbued with history – are now justa backdrop to the richly aromatickarkade and hookah. Egypt is thesetting of rich, complex and deeplymoral stories, posing difficultquestions and giving demandingtasks to itself and its people – thatmuch should be clear from the restof this article. However, it shouldalso become clear that a person'slove for Egypt can be as undyingas that of the protagonists at thehappy end of an Amanda Quickromance paperback.Losing a childhood to egyptThe connection that Slovenia had with Egypt inthe 19th and 20th century had a considerable anddeeply felt effect on the Slovenian families whosemothers set out for Alexandria or Cairo believingthat they would be able to return home once theyearned enough money working as nannies. A recentlyscreened documentary, written and directedby Metod Pevec, used stories told by their unfortunatedescendants to show that these womenusually ended up with no desire or opportunity toleave the promised land. Their children grew up asorphans who become upset at the mere mentionof Egypt. And who could blame them? Even thoughSlovenia is situated relatively close to Egypt, itsperception among Slovenians was long based onthe fear of the unknown, writes Prof. Zmago Šmitekin his article entitled "Egypt – the Land of SlovenianFascination". One of the reasons for this fear was thebelief that Egyptians held magical powers. It is truethat sometimes their looks can kill...The rule of rightTravelling in an old and battered railway carriagefrom the north to the south of the country across theEgyptian countryside, it is easy to imagine yourselfas a character in an Agatha Christie novel. Trainsfeature heavily in her books, and it is easy to seewhere she found the inspiration for the sorrowfulpartings, unexpected meetings, sad realisations,exciting discoveries and happy endings. Yes, Egypt isthe setting of rich, complex and deeply moral stories,posing difficult questions and giving demandingtasks to itself and its people. But you can't judgeeveryone by the same standard; it’s true that thepercentage of locals intent on double-crossingwhite tourists despite the foreigners' attempts athaggling is relatively high, but you will also findpeople who are looking for nothing more than newsfrom the Western world and a respectful attitude.A polite greeting, firm handshake and determined,direct eye contact – that’s all it takes. Advice from alocal teacher of etiquette? No, just a fact that canlead to the beginning of a firm friendship. Obviouslythere has to be a desire for it, a love for the Egyptianway of life and, last but not least, this equation alsotakes time. But even though you might feel like youwill never see the result – maybe because you madea mistake in non-verbal communication if nothingelse – you have never been more wrong. It is truethat you are supposed to give and accept gifts withyour right hand, keep the soles of your feet hiddenand never cross your legs, but forgiveness is also oneof the basic virtues taught by Islam.Egypt=soukNo trip through Arab countries is complete withouta visit to at least one souk – an open-air marketwhere your eyes, tired of the daily routine, can reston the brightly coloured surroundings and you suddenlyrealise how many things we have lost in ourendless race against time. Things such as love and90

egypt!Adria Airways in cooperation with travelagencies Kompas and Palma flies to Egyptonce a week.respect for craftsmanship and handicrafts; in Egypt,they have been passed from generation to generationfor centuries. Do you know how to build a pyramidfrom saffron, chilli peppers or harissa? The latter,a hot red spice often added to soups and couscous,is indispensable in North African cuisine. Do youthink you could do better than Egyptian artisanswhen it comes to shaping ceramics without a wheel,using nothing but your hands and feet and trustingyour instinct? Some of these products come close tobeing art, but even so, craftsmanship is beginning tolose value and it is no secret that it has been beatenout by commerce. The artisans in Egypt, one of Africa'smost populous countries, have been defeatedby goods coming in from the East, where workersare more numerous, cheaper and, crucially, moreefficient. But thanks to the Nile, Egypt has managedto retain some authentic artisans such as thoseproducing papyrus from the eponymous plant thatgrows in the wetlands of the world's longest river.Papyrus plants are cut into equal pieces and placedalongside each other. They are weighted down untilthe sticky liquid has drained out. Once the plantsare dry, it is time to decorate them with ancientEgyptian elements. And then there is the alabaster, atranslucent mineral, now no longer used for storingthe earthly remains of pharaohs but still beautifulto look at. It is nice to keep it on your bedside table,trapped inside a small lamp, and feel that there is apart of Egypt that belongs only to you.Underwater safariIf there is one place that was not touched by theArab Spring, it is below the surface of the sea atSharm El Sheikh, Dahab, Hurghada and MarsaAlam. The Red Sea is wide, deep and endless,reminiscent of the love of a mother. Before youdive in, the best thing to do is clear your mind ofany thoughts that could interrupt the sense ofendlessness and deep connection to the diversemarine life. The Red Sea is also where you can findthe best preserved coral reefs, typically adjacent todeserted, bare beaches. You won't have to swimfar or deep before you find yourself swimmingagainst the current with a sea turtle by your side,touching a manatee or hiding safely behind thecolourful fan of a coral reef to watch a majesticwhale or a school of grey reef sharks. There is noneed to run from them – that is what the sharksthemselves tend to do if they happen to encountera scuba diver.91

092PRIJETNAARHITEKTURAZA JESEN ŽIVLJENJADomovi za starejše: trije primeri iz Slovenije

PRIJETNA ARHITEKTURACenter starejših TrnovoBESEDILO: NADA ŠERBELJFOTOGRAFIJE: arhiv arhitekturni biroravnikar potokar, miran kambičGLOBALNIDEMOGRAFSKI KAZALCINAPOVEDUJEJO,DA BO LETA 2050V BOGATEJŠEMDELU SVETA VSAKTRETJI PREBIVALECUPOKOJENEC,SKORAJ VSAK DESETIPREBIVALEC PA BO IMELVEČ KOT 80 LET.TRENDOM STARANJAPREBIVALSTVASMO SICER PRIČAŽE NEKAJ ČASA,OMENJENENAPOVEDI PAKAŽEJO, DA BODOV PRIHAJAJOČIHDESETLETJIH LE ŠENARAŠČALI.Tudi Slovenija se sooča s porastom staranjaprebivalstva, ki je kot povsod drugod posledicadaljšanja življenjske dobe in nižanja rodnosti. Tidemografski trendi vplivajo na različna področjadružbe kot celote, med prvimi pa se pojavivprašanje nastanitve in bivanjskih standardov vtretjem življenjskem obdobju. Potrebe po novihnastanitvenih kapacitetah skokovito naraščajo inkljub povečanemu številu novozgrajenih domovza starejše, ki smo mu v Sloveniji priča v zadnjemčasu, še vedno ne sledijo povpraševanju.Center starejših Trnovo v Ljubljani, Centerstarejših Hodoš in Dom upokojencev Idrija, kiso bili zgrajeni v zadnjih štirih letih, predstavljajoprimer dobre prakse na tem področju vSloveniji. Projekte so izdelali v arhitekturnembiroju Ravnikar Potokar, in sicer na osnoviprvonagrajenih natečajnih elaboratov. Pogoji inizhodišča javnega natečaja, ki so bili postavljenis strani Zbornice za arhitekturo in prostor Slovenije(ZAPS), so objekte programsko in tipološkoopredelili, arhitekti pa so jih s premišljeno prostorskozasnovo in dodano vrednostjo umestilimed kvalitetne in prepoznavne primere novejšeslovenske arhitekture.Prvi in največji med njimi je bil leta 2009 zgrajenCenter starejših Trnovo v Ljubljani. V osnovisestavljajo kompleks trije stavbni elementi:trakt varovanih stanovanj, dom za starejše inpovezovalni element, kamor je umeščen skupniprogram, ki napaja oba objekta. Spremljajočijavni storitveni program v pritličnem delu objektavarovanih stanovanj se navezuje na mestniprostor in tako prispeva k integraciji centrastarejših v okolje.93

prijetna arhitekturaCenter starejših HodošStavba je vpeta v preplet urbanega parka, nakaterega se odpirajo sobe doma. Kljub optimalniizkoriščenosti in racionalni zasnovi je komplekszelo razgiban in tako ustvarja niz ambientalnihsekvenc in dinamiko prostora, ki ponuja prijetnobivanjsko okolje. Stanovalci lahko tako uživajo vraznolikosti zunanjega prostora: v mestnem vrvežuali pa v intimi, ki jo ponuja interni del parka.Na ometani fasadi objekta varovanih stanovanjse izmenjujeta peščena in oranžna barva.Polni kubus z vertikalnimi odprtinami leži nadsteklenim pritličjem, ki se nadaljuje v pritlični delcelotnega kompleksa in kot transparenten ovojpoveže vse sklope kompleksa. Zelo atraktivnista tudi vzhodna in zahodna fasada doma zastarejše, ki sta v celoti zastekljeni, nanju pa sopripeti rdeči in oranžni okvirji.Tudi pri podobi leto kasneje zgrajenega Centrastarejših Hodoš so arhitekti predvideli toplebarve in močen volumen, ki je nameščen nadtransparentnim podstavkom. Vendar na povsemdrugačen način. Način, ki je lasten drugemukontekstu in značaju prostora. V ruralnem okoljuprekmurske vasi Hodoš je pri oblikovanju centrastarejših vidna navezava na lokalno stavbnotradicijo. Na podolgovate parcele v Prekmurjuso gospodarski objekti postavljeni vzporedno zdaljšo stranico, medtem ko so stanovanjski delihiš vzporedni s cesto, skupaj pa tvorijo notranjedvorišče. Podobno tudi L oblika centra tvoriinterni atrij, ki se zlije z okoliško krajino.Z arhitekturnimi elementi lokalne kulturnedediščine, vnesenimi v sodobno oblikovanje,pridobijo stanovalci oboje: občutek domačnostiin vse ugodnosti, ki jih ponuja novogradnja.Program centra je od svojih začetkov delomaspremenil namembnost; njegova arhitekturnazasnova namreč dopušča precejšnjo merofleksibilnosti pri uporabi prostora.Razgibani stavbni volumni so tako kot v primeruCentra starejših Trnovo tudi pri projektiranjuDoma upokojencev Idrija zmehčali podoboobjektov, saj bi sicer lahko učinkovali dokaj togo.S tem so arhitekti zadostili programskim zahtevam,hkrati pa zagotovili, da objekti ne izstopajov okolju in da niso tipološko zaznamovani.94

PRIJETNA ARHITEKTURADom upokojencev Idrija»Svet trenutno šteje 6,9 milijard ljudi, od tega jeskoraj 11 odstotkov prebivalstva starejšega od60 let. Do leta 2050, ko se bo svetovno prebivalstvopovzpelo na 9 milijard, pa naj bi se ta delež povečalna 22 odstotkov.«»Kvaliteta bivanja je vrednota, ki ješe zlasti iskana in cenjena v tretjemživljenjskem obdobju, saj bistveno vplivana splošno počutje posameznika.«Predvsem pa se je tako formiralo bogatejšeambientalno okolje, ki ugodno vpliva napočutje stanovalcev. Kljub temu, da je bil objektzasnovan v dveh fazah, od katerih se zadnjaravnokar zaključuje, je celoten objekt načrtovanv enotnem arhitekturnem jeziku. Dom upokojencevIdrija sestavljata dva med seboj pravokotnaobjekta izrazito podolgovate zasnove, medkaterima se je oblikoval skupni zunanji prostorpoljavnega in internega značaja, ki prehaja v javniprostor pred objektom. Poti so zelo raznolike,sprehajalcem ponujajo doživljajske sekvence intako budijo njihovo zanimanje za okolico.Na daljših fasadah so vstavljeni okvirji, ki močnorazgibajo podobo objekta, hkrati pa predstavljajonekdanje hiše stanovalcev doma, ki sosedaj vstavljene pod skupno streho. Daljši fasadista tudi dva kontrastna barvna pola, od katerihje jugovzhodna fasada izvedena v svetlejših,severozahodna pa v temnejših tonih.Ena poglavitnejših odlik, ki je skupna vsem tremdomovom, je izredno prijetno bivalno okolje, kiustvarja dobro počutje. Sobe so svetle in orientiraneproti okoliškim vedutam. Vizualna povezavaz okoljem je namreč psihološki element, ki jev tem primeru še posebej pomemben. Notranjiambienti učinkujejo zračno, odprto, prostori soizvedeni v svetlih tonih, predvsem pa je zagotovljenatudi dobra berljivost prostora, kar jebistveno za organizacijo starejših ljudi v prostoru.Z arhitekturnimi rešitvami in implementacijobogatega programa pa je poleg materialnegaudobja in zdravstvene nege zagotovljenotudi vključevanje v socialno mrežo in skrb zaohranjanje psihofizične vitalnosti. Povezanostomenjenih domov z okoljem, v katerem senahajajo, pa ugodno vpliva na varovance, kiso tako vključeni v družbeno dogajanje. Lahkorečemo, da so ti trije domovi zgleden primer,kako se je mogoče z arhitekturnim oblikovanjem,primernimi vsebinami in lokacijo izognitisegregaciji in izoliranosti, ki sta pogosto prisotnipri institucionalnem varstvu starejših ljudi.Preprosto, a osnovno vodilo pri vseh omenjenihprojektih pa je bilo z arhitekturnimi intervencijamiustvariti optimalne bivanjske pogoje in takozagotoviti visoko kakovost bivanja stanovalcem vnjihovi jeseni življenja.95

PLEASANT ARCHITECTURETrnovo Centre for the ElderlyPleasant architecture for the autumn of lifeHomes for the elderly: three cases from SloveniaTEXT: NADA ŠERBELJ PHOTOGRAPHY: ARCHIVE ravnikar potokar ARCHITECTURAL OFFICE, Miran kambičGLOBAL DEMOGRAPHIC INDICATORS PREDICT THAT BY 2050, ONEIN THREE PEOPLE IN THE RICHEST PARTS OF THE WORLD WILL BEPENSIONERS AND ALMOST ONE IN TEN PEOPLE WILL BE AGED 80 ORMORE. THE AGEING POPULATION TREND HAS BEEN WITH US FORSOME TIME NOW AND THE ABOVE FORECASTS INDICATE THAT THEYWILL ONLY CONTINUE TO GROW IN THE COMING DECADES.Slovenia is also facing an increasingly ageing population, which, much likeeverywhere else, is the result of a longer life expectancy and declining birth rates.These demographic trends impact on various areas of the society as a whole,with one of the first issues to arise being the question of accommodationand living standards in the golden years. The needs for new accommodationcapacities are rising rapidly and still do not meet demand despite Slovenia’srecent increase in the number of newly built homes for the elderly.Built in the last four years, the Trnovo Centre for the Elderly in Ljubljana,the Hodoš Centre for the Elderly and the Idrija Retirement Home representSlovenia’s good practice cases in this area. The projects were designed by theRavnikar Potokar architectural office on the basis of competition-winningstudies. The terms and starting points of the open competition set by theChamber of Architecture and Spatial Planning of Slovenia (ZAPS) providedthe programme and typological definition of the facilities, while the architectswere responsible for placing them among high-quality and distinctiveexamples of modern Slovenian architecture through careful spatial designand added value.The first and biggest among them was Ljubljana’s Trnovo Centre for theElderly built in 2009. The complex basically consists of three structural elements:a wing of assisted living residences, an elderly home and a connectingelement containing a joint programme that supports both buildings. Theaccompanying public service programme on the ground floor of the assistedliving residences building is linked to the urban space, contributing to theintegration of the Centre for the Elderly in the environment.With rooms overlooking the park, the building is woven into the fabric of theurban park. Despite its optimal utilisation and rational design, the buildingcomplex is highly diverse, creating a set of ambient sequences and a spatialdynamic that offers a pleasant living environment. This allows the residents96

PLEASANT ARCHITECTUREto enjoy the diversity of the outside areas: in the hustle and bustle of the cityor in the intimacy in the heart of the park.The plastered facade of the assisted living residences building features aninterplay of sandy and orange colours. The full cube with vertical openingsis located above the glazed ground floor, which extends to the ground floorof the entire complex, linking together all sections of the complex like atransparent cover. The fully glazed east and west facades of the elderly homeare also very attractive with their red and orange frames.For the appearance of the Hodoš Centre for the Elderly, which was built thefollowing year, the architects also envisaged warm colours and a strongvolume located above the building’s transparent base – but with a completelynew twist that corresponds to the different context and character ofthe area. Set in the rural environment of the Prekmurje village Hodoš, thedesign of the Centre for the Elderly reflects the local building tradition. Onthe oblong plots of Prekmurje, commercial premises are built parallel to thelong side while the houses' residential parts are parallel to the road, togetherforming an inner courtyard. Similarly, the L shape of the Centre forms aninternal atrium that blends in with the surrounding landscape.Incorporating architectural elements of the local cultural heritage in a moderndesign gives the residents two things: a feeling of familiarity with all thebenefits of a newly constructed building.Since its inception, the Centre’s programme has slightly changed its purposeas its architectural design allows a great deal of flexibility in the use of space.As in the case of the Trnovo Centre for the Elderly, the project design of theIdrija Retirement Home included diverse structural volumes to soften theappearance of the buildings that could otherwise appear rather stiff. In thisway, the architects were able to meet the programme requirements whileensuring that the facility does not seem out of place in its environment and isnot typologically marked. But most of all, this helped to form a richer ambientenvironment that has a positive effect on the residents’ wellbeing. Eventhough the facility was designed in two stages, with the last presently nearingcompletion, the entire facility was designed using a single architecturallanguage. The Idrija Retirement Home comprises two mutually perpendicularfacilities of an extremely oblong design with a central common outdoorarea of a semi-public and internal nature, which passes into the public spaceoutside the facility. The walkways are highly diverse, offering walkers adventuroussequences and thus awakening their interest in the surrounding area.The longer facades feature frames that make the facility’s appearance muchmore dynamic while serving as a reminder of the residents’ former homes,which are now included under a common roof. The longer facades also serveas contrasting colour opposites, with the southeast facade in lighter and thenorthwest facade in darker tones.One of the main features shared by all three homes is the extremely pleasantliving environment and the wellbeing it creates. The rooms are bright andoverlook the surrounding vistas. The visual connection to the environmentis in this case a particularly important psychological element. The internalambience gives off a sense of airiness and openness, the spaces are designedusing light tones, but most of all, the spaces are easily navigable, which isessential for the spatial orientation of the elderly. Besides material comfortand health care, the architectural solutions and the implementation of arich programme are also a guarantee for inclusion in the social networkand care for preserving physical and mental vitality. The connection thesehomes share with their respective environments has a positive influence ontheir residents, who are thus also involved in social activities. It could be saidthat they are an exemplar of how architectural design, coupled with suitablecontent and location, can be used to avoid the segregation and isolationthat are often associated with institutionalised care for the elderly.In all of the above projects, the simple and basic guideline was to createoptimum living conditions through architecture, thus ensuring that residentslead high-quality lives in the autumn of their life.Hodoš Centre for the ElderlyIdrija Retirement Home“There are now 6.9 billion peoplein the world, with nearly 11 percent aged over 60. By 2050, whenthe world population will reach9 billion, this percentage willincrease to 22 per cent."“Quality of life is a value thatis particularly sought afterand appreciated in the goldenyears as it significantlyaffects the overall health ofthe individual.”97

098BESEDILO IN fotografije: JOŽE BALASOaza DunhuangMED DVEMASVETOVOMANekoč pomembna trgovska postojanka na Svilnipoti, še pred tem najzahodnejša vojaška garnizija,ki je Kitajsko ščitila pred vdori barbarskih plemen zZahoda. Danes pa se v to oazo sredi ničesar, kileži nekje na tromeji provinc Gansu, Qinghai inXinjiang, zatekajo predvsem popotniki in turisti,ki bežijo pred kaosom kitajskih velemest, tisti,ki jih privlačijo širna puščavska prostranstva,prijazni ljudje in bogata kulturna dediščina.

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Oaza DunhuangJa, marsikdaj in marsikje, sploh če potuješ poKitajski, se predstava o kraju, ki si jo popotnikustvari na podlagi literarnih, popotniških alidrugih zapisov, močno razlikuje od realnosti,ki jo ponavadi ves presenečen doživi na krajusamem. Tako je tudi v primeru Dunhuanga,mesta oziroma oaze, izgubljene sredi ničesar.Oaze na koncu ene in tako rekoč na začetkudruge puščave. Ali pa poti, kakor hočete. Oazenekje vmes. Oaze, ki je stoletja pozdravljalapopotniške karavane in se od njih tudi poslavljala.Tisti, ki so prihajali z Zahoda, so prišli vDunhuang utrujeni, če že ne uničeni, vsekakorpa veseli, saj je bil za njimi najtežji del potiskozi zahodni Turkmenistan oziroma Xinjiang.Skozi deželo težko prehodnih gorskih prostranstevin negostoljubnih puščav, med katerimije Takla makan na najslabšem glasu. Tisti pa, kiso v Dunhuang prihajali z Vzhoda, so vedeli,da se njihovo pravo popotovanje šele začenja.Pot do Donhuanga z Vzhoda je resda dolgain naporna, vendar ne tako nepredvidljiva innevarna. Poteka po nekakšnem zelenem pasupod gorovjem Qilian, s katerega se proti severustekajo življenja polne reke in hudourniki, ki pase kaj kmalu izgubijo v žarečem puščavskempesku Gobija. Kljub temu pa je vode ravnodovolj, da se je življenjski ciklus prebivalcevohranjal skozi dolga stoletja, tako da so lahkotako majhna mesta kot tudi manjše naselbinekadar koli sprejeli v svoje okrilje popotnike inkaravane. Najsi so popotniki prihajali z Vzhodaali Zahoda, vsi so bili v Dunhuangu sprejeti zodprtimi rokami. Prebivalci te oaze, mešanicaHanov, Huijev in Ujgurov, še danes veljajo zaodprte in prijazne gostitelje, kar daje temumestu poseben šarm.No, midva s sinom Vitom sva se pred Dunhuangomnajprej ustavila v Jiayuguanu, zadnji trdnjavivelikega kitajskega zidu, ki se od tu naprej leše izgublja v širnih prostranstvih Gobija in Taklamakana. Tu se je pravzaprav začela najina puščavskazgodba, polna kontrastov in nenavadnihpripetljajev, tu se nekako začne tudi zgodba onevarni in nepredvidljivi poti onkraj velikegazidu. Jiayuguan namreč leži na najožjem, strateškemdelu zahodnega odseka Hexi koridorjamed pogorjema Qilian in Hei, zaradi česar nibil le zadnja obrambna linija pred hordami zZahoda, temveč tudi pomemben prehod zakopenske karavane na Svilni poti. V ta namen soleta 1372, v času dinastije Ming, na robu današnjegamesta sezidali eno najlepših in največjihvojaških trdnjav na Kitajskem, imenovano tudi»največja trdnjava na svetu«. No, danes pa tole na videz spokojno podeželsko mesto rišenove mejnike, saj se v njegovi bližini, v širnempuščavskem prostranstvu, skriva največji kitajskiraketni izstrelitveni center, od koder so Kitajciposlali v vesolje svoje prve rakete in astronavte.O tem, da ima mesto velike ambicije, govorijotudi obsežni novi stanovansjki kompleksi spravimi avenijami in vso potrebno infrastrukturo.Vsekakor bo Jiayuguan čez nekaj let kazalpopolnoma drugo podobo, kot jo kaže danes,ko se le streljaj od centra mesta razprostira staratržnica in kjer domačini še vedno prihajajo vbližnji lokal na ogled večernih poročil, saj v svojiskromnosti ne premorejo niti lastnega TV-ja.No, dokaj podobna slika je tudi v Donhuangu.Neustavljiv napredek, ki ga omogoča nezadržnarast kitajskega gospodarstva, je zavel tudi v temodmaknjenem kraju sredi ničesar. V zadnjih letihso iz Liuyuana do Dunhuanga potegnili več kot100 km železnice in posodobili več kot 150 kmceste ter mestu, v katerem se je nekoč ustaviltudi Marco Polo, nadeli novo betonsko preobleko.Tako v sami oazi težko najdemo ostanketradicionalne arhitekture, na žalost tudi tržnicane vzbuja kakšne posebne nostalgije po starihčasih. Skratka, sama oaza kot taka razen dobrein raznovstne hrane in prijaznih ljudi ne nudikaj dosti. Po drugi strani pa prav to pomeni zeloveliko in neprecenljivo, čeprav s pričakovanonostalgično podobo starodavne oaze ni bilo nič.Še najbolj je duh po starem zaznati v revni soseskina levem bregu reke Dang, kjer se nahajajoostanki starega mestnega obzidja in pagoda belegakonja, edini relikviji iz bogate zgodovine teoaze, žal pa se še ta preveč meša z vonjem človeškihiztrebkov. Soseska je namreč brez vodovodain kanalizacije, ob cesti so postavljena skupnastranišča na štrbunk, o katerih ne bi zgubljal besed,otroci pa opravljajo potrebo kar na cesti. Popolnomanasprotna slika novega jedra oaze nadrugi strani reke, ki je na nek način brezosebna inprav nič nostalgična. Kljub temu pa se postanekv Dunhuangu še kako splača, saj njegova okolicanudi veliko naravnih in zgodovinsko-kulturnihužitkov. Najbolj so seveda znane jame Mogao, kiležijo slabih 25 kilometrov jugovzhodno iz mestana vzhodnem prepadnem pobočju hribovjaMingsha in veljajo za biser budistične umetnostiin zapuščine ne samo na Kitajskem.In taka, stoletjazapuščena in vprostrani puščavipozabljena, so tudidruga mesta, ki sopomenila zadnjomejo med nevarnimibarbarskimideželami nazahodni mejiKitajske.101

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Oaza DunhuangJame tisočerih bud, kakor jim tudi pravijo in ki so pravzaprav majhni templji,so začeli izklesavati okrog leta 366. Celoten kompleks templjev, ki sosprva služili le za meditiranje in bogoslužje, se razprostira v dolžini 1600metrov. Danes je ohranjenih samo še 492 jam oziroma templjev, a kljubtemu predstavljajo neprecenljivo bogastvo: več kot 45.000 m² stenskihslikarij, 3400 ploskih tridimenzionalnih reliefov in zidnih kipov, velikih odnekaj centimetrov pa vse do 33 metrov, več tisoč stebrov z lotosovimimotivi, v eni od zapečatenih jam so našli več kot 50.000 svetih spisov,portretov, knjig ... Skratka, videti je kar nekaj, čeprav je za turiste odprt ledelček te bogate zapuščine, kjer pa je žal strogo prepovedano fotografiranje.No, če že ni prepovedano fotografiranje, je prepovedano gibanje, kotje na primer v oazi Polmesečnega izvira (Yueyaguan), ki leži med več kot100 metrov visokimi sipinami šest kilometrov južno od Dunhuanga. Tamse je v želji po čim boljšem posnetku iz neznanega razloga pač prepovedanopovzpeti na določeno sipino, s katere se odpira najboljši razgledna starodavni tempelj in majhno jezerce v obliki polmeseca, ki pa počasiizginja. Ja, to je definitivno najbolj fotogenična lokacija, ki privablja natisoče turistov v ta konec, dramatičnost celotni pokrajini pa dajejo pravvisoke sipine puščavskega peska, ki jim domačini pravijo tudi »mrmrajočipesek«. Po legendi je namreč peščeni vihar pod seboj pokopal celotenvojaški tabor; mrmranje sipin, ki jih je veter zaradi upiranja preoblikoval vjadrom podobne obline, pa naj bi bili pravzaprav glasovi in kriki v viharjuizgubljenih vojakov. Nenavadno pa je tuljenje vetra tudi v geološkemnacionalnem parku Yadan, ki leži dobrih 300 km severovzhodno od Dunhuangana meji provinc Gansu in Xinjiang. Tu je narava iz peska in usedlinskrilavca pred cca 700.000 leti izoblikovala nenavadno skalno pokrajino,ki se ponoči, ko močni vetrovi pometajo puščavo in ustvarjajo srhljivezvoke, podobne zverskim, spremeni v »mesto demonov«. In taka, stoletjazapuščena in v prostrani puščavi pozabljena, so tudi druga mesta, ki sopomenila zadnjo mejo med nevarnimi barbarskimi deželami na zahodnimeji Kitajske. Tu, v tej negostoljubni puščavi ležijo ostanki vojaškihpostojank in mest, ki so bila zgrajena stoletja pred mogočno trdnjavoJiayuguan – Dunhuang na primer že leta 104 pred našim štetjem –,mest, ki so doživljala svoj razcvet in nato žalostno izginila v pesku, na karnas opozarjajo le še nemi ostanki zidov. Mesto Yumenguan ali Žadovavrata, za katero je veliki poet Wang Zhihuan (688–742) zapisal, da je takooddaljeno od cesarstva, da še spomladna sapica ne more prodreti donjega, so postavili že leta 131 pred našim štetjem in je v času dinastijeHan pomenilo glavna vrata v osrednjo Azijo in glavni trg za žad iz vsehkoncev Xinjianga. Tu se že drugo tisočletje upira puščavskemu pesku tudinajstarejši del kitajskega zidu, po načinu izgradnje precej drugačnem kottisti z razglednic. Ja, pod tem puščavskim peskom se poleg najsodobnejšihvesoljskih programov in raket najbrž skriva še veliko zanimivih zgodb.Pa naj bodo to zgodbe o širjenju meja kitajskega cesartsva na Zahod,saj arheologi vedno znova odkrivajo nove in nove kilometre »kitajskegazidu«, ki se zažira že globoko v puščavo Takla makan. Zgodbe o umetnostiali pa religiji, kajti tu skozi sta »potovala« tako budizem kot islam in pustilagloboke korenine na celotnem območju zahodne Kitajske. Ne nazadnjesamo zgodbe navadnih trgovcev in popotnikov ali pa ljudi, ki so tisočletjauspeli kljubovati težkemu življenju v tem krutem puščavskem okolju,njihove sledi pa je prekril puščavski pesek. Vsekakor zgodbe, ki bodo v tekonce še stoletja privabljale radovedne popotnike.Donhuang še vedno živi na stari slavi, časih, ko je bil cvetoča oaza popotnikovin kultur z Vzhoda in Zahoda, časih blaginje, časih Marca Polain drugih velikih drznih popotnikov, trgovcev in raziskovalcev. Dunhuangovobogastvo so ljudje, kultura, zgodovina, umetnost in nenavadnapuščavska pokrajina, zato od samega mesta, tiste tipične starodavnearhitekture, ki nas včasih tako privlači in vzbuja skoraj pravljične predstave,ne pričakujte veliko. In mogoče Dunhuangu do popolne popotniškedestinacije manjka prav to. Ampak take in podobne zgodbe se dogajajopo vsej Kitajski in najbrž tudi drugod po svetu, a žal se njihovih poslediczavemo veliko prepozno.103

The Oasis ofDunhuangBETWEEN TWOWORLDSTEXT AND PHOTOGRAPHY: JOŽE BALASOnce an important trade outposton the Silk Road and before thatthe westernmost military garrisonprotecting China against raids frombarbaric tribes of the West, this oasis inthe middle of nowhere now commandsa position on the triple border of theprovinces Gansu, Qinghai and Xinjiang, ahaven mostly for travellers and touristslooking to escape the chaos of China’smetropolises and those who are drawnto vast expanses of desert, kind peopleand a rich cultural heritage.Indeed, there are many times and places, especiallywhen travelling across China, when the idea of theplace you had created on the basis of literature,travelogues or other records differs greatly from thereality that you discover on visiting, much to yoursurprise. This is what happens in Dunhuang, thecity, or rather oasis, lost in the middle of nowhere– an oasis at the end of one desert and almost atthe edge of the next desert – or path, whatever youwant to call it. An oasis that is somewhere in themiddle, an oasis that has been greeting and sayinggoodbye to travelling caravans for centuries. Peoplecoming to Dunhuang from the West were tired,if not exhausted, but definitely glad to have put themost difficult leg of their journey through westernTurkmenistan or Xinjiang behind them. Their journeytook them through nearly impassable mountainexpanses and inhospitable deserts, of whichthe Taklimakan is the most infamous. As for thosecoming to Dunhuang from the East, they knewthat their true journey was just beginning. Thoughit is arduous and long, the journey to Dunhuangfrom the East is not nearly as unpredictable andperilous. It runs along a sort of green belt at thefoot of the Qilian Mountains from which rivers andtorrents teeming with life flow towards the Northwhere they soon disappear in the scorching desertsands of the Gobi. Despite this however, there hasalways been just enough water here to sustain lifefor the residents throughout the long centuries,allowing both small cities and smaller settlementsto welcome travellers and caravans to their midstat any time. Whether coming to Dunhuang fromthe East or West, all travellers were welcomed withopen arms. Residents of the oasis, a mix of Han,Hui and Uyghur peoples, are today still known forbeing open and friendly hosts, giving this city aspecial charm.104

The Oasis of dunhuangWell before setting out for Dunhuang, my sonVito and I first made a stop at Jiayuguan, the lastfortress of the Great Wall of China, which fromhere on gradually disappears into the vast Gobiand Taklimakan deserts. This is where our desertstory actually began, full of contrasts and strangeevents. This is also the approximate beginningof the story of the hazardous and unpredictablejourney beyond the Great Wall, for Jiayuguan liesat the narrowest, strategic western section of theHexi Corridor running between the Qilian andHei Mountains, making it not only the last line ofdefence against the hordes of the West, but also amajor passage for land caravans on the Silk Road.Also called the “Largest Fortress in the World", oneof the most beautiful and largest military fortressesin China was built here at the edge of today’s cityin 1372, during the Ming dynasty. Nowadays,this seemingly tranquil rural city is setting newmilestones – in its vicinity, in the vast expanse ofthe desert, hides China’s biggest rocket launch sitefrom which the Chinese sent their first rockets andastronauts into space. The extensive new residentialcomplexes with proper avenues and the necessaryinfrastructure are tell-tale signs of the city’sgreat ambitions. In a few years’ time, Jiayuguanwill completely change its appearance from whatit is today, with the old marketplace sprawlingonly a stone’s throw away from the city centre andwhere the locals still come to the nearby bar towatch the evening news because they live modestlives and do not even have their own TV sets.You find a similar sight in Dunhuang. The unstoppableprogress brought about by the irrepressiblegrowth of the Chinese economy has touched eventhis remote place in the middle of nowhere. Inrecent years, over 100 kilometres of railway werebuilt from Liuyuan to Dunhuang and over 150kilometres of roads were renovated giving the city,where Marco Polo once made a stop, a brand newconcrete outfit. In the oasis proper, you would behard pressed to find any remains of traditionalarchitecture, and unfortunately even the marketplacedoes not evoke any special feelings ofnostalgia for old times. All in all, the oasis itselfdoes not offer much except for good and diversefood and friendly people. On the other hand, this isexactly what makes it very important and priceless,even though the expected nostalgic image of anancient oasis is missing. The area where the oldimage is best preserved is the poor neighbourhoodon the left bank of the river Dang, where theremains of the only two relics from the rich historyof this oasis are situated – the old city walls andthe White Horse Pagoda –, but unfortunately, thereis a strong smell of human excrement even here.The neighbourhood does not have a water supplyand sewer system so there are public outhouseslocated along the road, of which no further wordsare necessary, while the children are simply relievingthemselves in the streets. A total opposite tothe new heart of the oasis located on the otherbank of the river, which is in a way impersonaland completely lacking in nostalgia. Despite thishowever, making a stop at Dunhuang is verymuch worth it for the many natural, historical andcultural delights offered by its surroundings. TheMogao Caves situated on the eastern precipitousslopes of the Mingsha hills, less than 25 kilometressoutheast of the city, are the most famous and areconsidered the pinnacle of Buddhist art and legacyin China and beyond. Also known as the Caves ofthe Thousand Buddhas, they are actually smalltemples that began to be dug out around 366 AD.The entire complex of temples is 1600 metres longand was initially only intended for meditationand worship. Although no more than 492 caves/temples have been preserved, they represent apriceless treasure: over 45,000 m2 of murals, 3,400flat three-dimensional reliefs and wall sculpturesof sizes ranging from just a few centimetres to asmuch as 33 metres, several thousand columnswith lotus motifs, in one of the sealed caves theyfound more than 50,000 scriptures, portraits,books... On the whole, there is a lot to see here,even though only a fraction of the rich heritageis accessible to tourists; sadly, taking photos isstrictly forbidden. And even when photography isnot forbidden, there are no entry signs, such as inthe oasis of the Crescent Lake Spring (Yueyaquan),which lies among dunes more than 100-metrehigh, six kilometres south from Dunhuang. Forsome unknown reason, climbing dunes (whichoffer the best view of the ancient temple and thesmall slowly disappearing crescent-shaped lake)to get the best shot possible is forbidden. Indeed,this is definitely the most photogenic location thatattracts thousands of tourists, while the tall sanddunes, called the ‘singing sand’ by the locals, adda touch of drama to the whole landscape. Legendhas it that a sandstorm engulfed an entire militarygarrison here and that the singing dunes, shapedby wind into curves that resemble sails, are actuallythe voices and screams of the soldiers lost in thatstorm. Another curiosity is the howling wind in theYadan National Geological Park, located some 300kilometres northeast of Dunhuang, at the borderbetween the provinces of Gansu and Xinjiang.Approximately 700,000 years ago, nature hereformed an unusual rocky landscape from sandand slate deposits, which produces chilling beastlikesounds, transforming it into the ‘Demon City’at night when winds sweep the desert. This is alsowhat the other cities that were once the last line ofdefence against the dangerous barbaric lands onthe western border of China are like, abandonedfor centuries and lost in the vast desert. Here, inthis inhospitable desert lie the remains of militaryoutposts and cities that were built centuries beforethe mighty fortress of Jiayuguan – Dunhuang forexample as early as 104 BC –, cities that flourishedand then sadly disappeared in the sand, with theonly reminders being their silent crumbled walls.The city of Yumenguan or the Jade Gate, of whichthe great poet Wang Zhihuan (688-742) wrote thatit is so far away from the Empire that not even aspring breeze can reach it, was built as early as 131BC and was used during the Han dynasty as themain pass to Central Asia and the main market forjade from all over Xinjiang. This is also the locationof the oldest section of the Great Wall of China thathas withstood the desert sands for two millenniaand whose construction is quite different to whatis pictured on the postcards. Indeed, besides themost advanced space programmes and rockets,there are probably many more exciting storieshidden in the desert sand: stories about how theChinese Empire expanded its borders in the West,as archaeologists continue to discover more andmore kilometres of the ‘Chinese Wall’ deep in theTaklimakan desert; stories about art or religion,for this was a passage where both Buddhism andIslam ‘travelled’, leaving deep roots throughoutWestern China. And finally, stories of ordinarytraders, travellers, or people who managed to defythe difficult life in this harsh desert environmentfor millennia and whose tracks have long sincebeen covered by the desert sand. These stories willwithout doubt keep on drawing the attention ofthe curious traveller for many centuries to come.Dunhuang is still living off its old glory days whenit was a flourishing oasis for travellers and culturesfrom the East and West, in times of prosperity, inthe time of Marco Polo and other great daringtravellers, traders and researchers. Dunhuang’swealth lies in its people, culture, history, art and theunusual desert landscape, which is why you shouldnot expect much from the city itself, especially notin terms of the typical ancient architecture that attractsus so, evoking almost fairy-tale associations.Perhaps this is exactly what Dunhuang needs tobecome the ultimate travel destination. Thoughthese and similar stories are happening all overChina, and probably elsewhere in the world, wenever seem to realise their consequences before it ismuch too late.This is also whatthe other citiesthat were oncethe last line ofdefence againstthe dangerousbarbaric lands onthe western borderof China are like,abandoned forcenturies and lostin the vast desert.105

106Zip linez eno najdaljšihprog v EvropiBESEDILO: Carmen Leban FOTOGRAFIJE: Iztok DimcSvobodenkot ptica

svoboden kot pticaČlovek si je že od nekdaj želelpoleteti in videti, kako zgleda svetod zgoraj. Čeprav je danes letenježe nekaj povsem običajnega, pamnogi iščejo vedno nove izzive,podkrepljene z dobršno meroadrenalina. Tovrstne navdušenceje gotovo razveselila letošnjanovost – Zip line spust napogorju Kanina, kjer pripetna jeklenico 200 metrov nadzemljo drviš s hitrostjo40–60 km/h z enega hriba nadrugega, vseskozi pa se tiodpirajo čudoviti panoramskipogledi, ki prek doline Sočesežejo vse do Triglava.Avantura se začne v Bovcu, kjer dobimo v agenciji popolno »bojno opremo« (alpinistični pas z dvojnim varovanjem in škripcem, s pomočjo katerega sepelješ po jeklenici, ter čelado in rokavice za zaviranje); tisto pravo opremo pa pri B postaji Kaninske žičnice, o koder nadaljujemo pot z nekdanjim vojaškimtovornjakom. Ko zagledamo prvo jeklenico, nam pogled avtomatično potuje za njo prek kanjona na sosednji hrib, oddaljen kakšnih petsto metrov. Niga junaka, ki se ob tem ne bi malo zamislil. A vodiči nas potolažijo in nam razložijo, da moramo pred spustom opraviti kratko šolanje v nekakšnem miniaturnemZip line parku.Upoštevati je treba pravilaNaučimo se pravilno namestiti opremo in se pripeti na jeklenico ter opravimokratek spust po jeklenici, ki je vpeta med drevesi le kakšna 2 m nadzemljo. Vodiči nam za popotnico in pogum razložijo, da gre za popolnomavaren adrenalinski šport, a le pod pogojem, da upoštevamo napotke. Nekajkratse spustimo po jeklenici, se poučimo o drži in se naučimo zavirati spomočjo dlani, ki je zavarovana z rokavico. Vsi zadovoljni in polni pričakovanjse odpravimo na prvo platformo, kjer se začne zares. Prva jeklenica sestrmo spušča in tudi najpogumnejšim se vsaj malo zatresejo kolena, le danekateri to povedo na glas, drugi pa modro molčijo.Ko gre zaresSpusti se prvi vodič, ki na drugem delu kanjona daje navodila in poskrbi,da se bomo pravilno zaustavili. Nekateri pred startom molčijo, drugi razmišljajona glas, tu in tam pa slišiš »O ljubi bog«. A ko pogledamo desetletnoGajo, drobceno deklico, ki niti za hip ne okleva o tem, ali bi se podala vavanturo ali ne, je prav zavoljo nje marsikomu lažje.Prvih nekaj metrov doživlja vsak po svoje. Nekateri so tiho kot miške in nepremaknejo niti oči, drugi mahajo, vriskajo, pošiljajo poljubčke. Žvižg, ki gaoddaja jeklenica, ko po njej drvijo adrenalinski navdušenci, se odbija od gora.Med samo pripravo na spust mi po glavi kroži marsikaj, med drugim tudito, ali mi je bilo tega treba. Sem namreč v tisti fazi, ko je najbolj napeto:pripeta sem na jeklenico in čakam na znak za start z drugega koncakanjona. Vodič še zadnjič preveri, kako sem pripeta, če je z varovali vse vredu, in me odrine. Drvim kot strela. Sprva sem trda in glas mi obtiči v grlu.Previdno pogledam navzdol, vrhovi krošenj so globoko pod menoj. »Uf,visoko je, jaz pa visim na jeklenici in drvim čez kanjon globoko pod seboj.«Ko usmerim pogled proti soški dolini in čudovitemu vencu Julijskih Alp, kijo obkrožajo, mi uspe iz grla zvabiti glas. Zaderem se, kolikor mi da srce, intisti hip začnem uživati v neverjetni svobodi: odleže mi.En sam užitekPremagali smo prvo jeklenico. Občutki negotovosti, strahu in ugibanjizpuhtijo. Prišel je čas za uživanje. Skozi gozd sestopimo nekaj 10 metrovnižje do druge platforme. Tokrat se spustimo med krošnjami dreves in občutekimaš, da se pelješ skozi nekakšen tunel med drevesi. Tu že vsi veselovreščimo in si dajemo duška. Na pol poti smo. Pri Zip line dogodivščini jenamreč treba premagati štiri jeklenice v skupni dolžini 2400 metrov; do zadnjeje avanturo v tandemu doživela le Gaja, potem pa so to okusili skorajvsi udeleženci, za katere je spust kar prehitro minil.107

svoboden kot pticaNa avanturo tudi letalsko osebje Adrie AirwaysDejan Kovačič (kapitan)»Že od otroštva sem si želel, da bi se popeljal po jeklenici, a nikoli nisem imelpriložnosti, zato nisem okleval niti trenutek. Tisti dan sem bil v službi, ob 15.uri smo pristali na letališču, dve uri kasneje pa sem že bil v Bovcu. Ko drvišpo jeklenici, ni tako kot v potniškem ali jadralnem letalu ali padalu. Čistodrugačen občutek je in težko ga je opisati. Počutiš se svoboden kot ptica,imaš možnost opazovati naravo in vse, kar se dogaja okoli tebe. Navdušensem in prepričan, da se bom še kdaj vrnil tja. Takrat bom tudi posnel nekajfotografij in kakšen filmček.«Nataša Perona (stevardesa)»Adrenalinska izkušnja 200 m nad zemljo je enkratna. K prvi jeklenici sempristopila nekoliko zadržana, pri četrti mi je bilo žal, da je konec. Malo večpozornosti je potrebno le ob ’poletanju’ in pristajanju, vmes pa je 100-odstotniužitek. Ker je bilo to moje prvo srečanje z Zip line, sem bila predvsemosredotočena na samo vožnjo, zato je čas, ko sem si ogledovala naravo sptičje perspektive, vse prehitro minil.«Samo Oblak (stevard)»Poskusil sem že vso adrenalinsko ponudbo na Bovškem in moram priznati,da sem zelo užival pri soteskanju, takoj za njim pa bi na 2. mesto uvrstil Zipline. Idilični razgledi po dolini, odlični segmenti, ko letiš med smrekami, pričemer prihaja do izraza hitrost, letenje 200 metrov nad zemljo in naravne lepote,vse v enem paketu. Zip line priporočam tudi avanturistom začetnikom.Dodano vrednost pa prispevajo tudi vodiči, ki s svojim znanjem, trudom inobvezno dozo humorja to izkušnjo spremenijo v nepozabno!«Črt Sambolec (športni pilot, stevard )»Preden se novopečeni ’zip-liner’ dobro zave, že uživa v kraljestvu planinskegaorla. Smreke, ki bežijo s hitrostjo 50 ali več km/ h pod nami, se izgubijo,ostaneta le piš vetra in zvok jeklenice. Pri prvem spustu je dojemanje počasnejše,kasneje je vse bolj stvarno. Preseneča dovršenost sistema in čistonove jeklenice in ne od kakšne odslužene žičnice. Preizkusil sem že marsikateri’zračni’ šport – od letenja z jadralnim in akrobatskim letalom –, a lahkorečem, da je Zip line najbolj podoben letu gorskih ptic visoko nad zemljo, ševedno pa ne toliko, kot bi bili v letalu. Navdušenje je bilo popolno.«Andreja Bogataj (stevardesa)»Bolj ko smo se bližali jeklenici, bolj me je stiskalo v želodcu. Višina, hitrost,mravljinci po hrbtu, mrazilo me je ... A vodiči so bili tako simpatični, da semtakoj pozabila na vse in se po jeklenici podala tretja po načelu ’čim prej, tembolje’. Spraznila sem misli, umirila roke in se osredotočila na dane napotke.Bala sem se, da bom imela oči zaprte, a ko sem bila v zraku, je bilo noro –tišina in mir, krasni razgledi. Vse skupaj je minilo prehitro in avanturo si želimše kdaj ponoviti.«108Zip line je adrenalinsko spuščanje po jeklenici od enedo druge točke. Navadno prečiš kanjon, včasih reko alise preprosto popelješ skozi gozd. Pri tem dobesednolebdiš v zraku, na jeklenico si vpet s plezalnim pasom, nakaterem je škripec, s pomočjo katerega drviš po jeklenici.Hitrost je odvisna od naklona jeklenice in seveda tudiod teže avanturista. Med najbolj znane Zip line avanturesodijo tiste na Karibih, kjer se popeljete skozi deževnigozd. Zip line izhaja iz Južne Amerike, zelo priljubljen paje tudi na Novi Zelandiji in ponekod v Evropi. Bovški Zipline gotovo sodi med bolj slikovite in daljše adrenalinskeavanture v Evropi.

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TEXT: Carmen Leban photography: iztok dimcZip-lining on One ofEurope’s Longest TracksFree As a BirdPeople have always dreamt of having the abilityto fly and seeing the world from above. Today,flying is nothing special, but many people stilllook for fresh challenges that will givethem a rush of adrenaline. They are sureto be excited by the news that zip-liningis now available on the slopes ofKanin, where adventurers canclip themselves to astainless steel cableand race betweentwo hills at 40 to 60kmph some 200 m abovethe ground while enjoying thebreathtaking panoramic views acrossthe Soča Valley and all the way to Triglav.The adventure begins in Bovec. We meet at the agency where we receive the basicequipment (a climbing harness with a double safety system and pulley that isused to travel along the cable as well as a helmet and gloves for braking). The realequipment awaits us at station B of the Kanin cable-car lift; from there, a formerarmy truck takes us the rest of the way. As soon as we spot the first cable, our eyesinstantly follow it all the way across the canyon to the neighbouring hill, a distanceof some 500 m. It is enough to give pause for thought even to the bravest ofus. But our guides soon make us feel better by explaining that we will first take aquick course at a miniature zip-line park before taking on the real thing.Follow the RulesWe learn how to put on our equipment and clip ourselves to the cable; then, wetry a short descent on a cable no more than 2 m above the ground, attachedbetween two trees. Before we start, the guides give us courage by explainingthat zip-lining is an adrenaline sport but one that is completely safe as long aswe follow the instructions to the letter. We travel down the cable a few times,practice our posture and learn how to brake using our hands (on which we wearprotective gloves). Satisfied and full of expectation, we head to the first platform.This is the real deal. The first cable looks very steep, making even the bravest of usfeel slightly nervous, though not everyone is willing to admit it.The Real DealOne of the guides goes first, stopping on the other side of the canyon to helpus out with instructions and to make sure that we stop in time. Some peoplewait for their turn in silence, others are thinking out loud; every now and then,someone exclaims, “Oh my God!” Then we look at Gaja, however, a slender,10-year-old girl who doesn’t have a moment’s hesitation about this adventure,and suddenly we feel better.For the first few metres, the experience is different for each one of us. Someare quiet as a mouse, not daring to move as much as an eyelid, while otherswave, shout with joy and blow kisses. The cable gives off a loud whistle as eachadventurer races down, the sound echoing from the mountains.As I prepare for my turn, my mind is swimming with thoughts but mainly withjust one, “Why did I have to go and get myself into something like this?” I’m atthe most nerve-wracking point of the adventure: clipped to the cable and waitingfor the start signal from the other side of the canyon. The guide does a finalcheck to make sure that I’m strapped in correctly and that everything is okaywith the safety system, and then he pushes me away. I’m going as fast as lightning.At first I feel stiff; my voice catches in my throat. I peer down cautiouslyand see the treetops far below. “Wow, this is high. I am actually suspendedon a cable racing across this canyon below!” As I look toward the Soča Valleyand the magnificent ring of Julian Alps that surrounds me, I finally recover myvoice. I shout as loudly as I can, and I immediately start to enjoy this incrediblefeeling of freedom: I feel relieved.Nothing but PleasureWe have overcome the first cable. Any feeling of doubt, fear and uncertaintyhas vanished into thin air. Now it is time to enjoy ourselves. We descend afew dozen metres through the forest and reach the second platform. Thistime we are zip-lining among the treetops; it feels like flying through a tunnelof trees. Now we are all shouting happily and enjoying every moment. Weare halfway done. The Zip-Line Adventure comprises four cables with a totallength of 2400 m; until the very last cable, Gaja was the only one to experiencezip-lining in tandem, but then almost all of us tried it. The adventurewas over much too quickly.110

svoboden kot pticaAdria Airways Crew Members Joins theAdventureDejan Kovačič (captain)“Ever since I was a child, I’ve always wanted to try zip-lining, butthis is the first time that I’ve had the opportunity. I didn’t hesitatefor a moment. I started the day at work; at 15:00, we landed at theairport, and just two hours later, I was in Bovec. Racing down acable feels different to flying in a passenger plane, a glider or witha parachute. It’s difficult to describe it, but the feeling is completelydifferent. You feel as free as a bird, and you have time to admirenature and everything else that surrounds you. I loved it, and I’msure that I’ll come back in the future. Next time, I’d like to take somepictures and make a video or two.”Nataša Perona (cabin crew)“This adrenaline experience 200 m above the ground is incredible.I was a bit apprehensive before taking on the first cable, butby the fourth one, I was sorry that it was over. The “take-off” andlanding take a bit of extra attention, but everything else is pureenjoyment. Since this was my first time on a zip-line, I was totallyfocused on the ride itself; any time I had to admire nature fromabove was all too short.”Samo Oblak (cabin crew)“I’ve tried out every adrenaline sport that the Bovec region has tooffer; my favourite was probably canyoning, but zip-lining comesa very close second. The idyllic views over the valley, those excitingsections among the spruce trees that really show you how fastyou’re going, flying 200 m above the ground and enjoying thebeautiful nature – all in one package. I would recommend zipliningeven for beginner adventurers. Added value is provided bythe guides, whose skill, hard work and humour make this a trulymemorable experience.”Črt Sambolec (sport pilot, cabin crew)“As a first-time zip-liner, you find yourself in the domain of thegolden eagles before you even realise it. You forget about thespruces flying past below you at 50 kmph or more, and all that’sleft is the whisper of the wind and the whistle of the cable. It’sdifficult to take everything in on your first descent, but things soonbecome less surreal. I was impressed by the efficiency of the systemand by the fact that they used brand new stainless steel cablesrather than old, used ski-lift cables. I’ve tried plenty of air sports –even gliding and aerobatics – but I can honestly say that zip-liningcomes closest to the flight of mountain birds high above theground, although not as high as in a plane. I thoroughly enjoyedthe experience."Andreja Bogataj (cabin crew)“The closer we came to the cable, the more butterflies I felt in mystomach. The altitude, the speed, goosebumps down my back andchills all over ... But the guides were so friendly and warm-heartedthat I soon forgot about my concerns. I told myself, ‘the sooner,the better,’ and took my place as third in line. I emptied my mind ofall thoughts, steadied my hands and focused on the instructionswe had been given. I was worried that I’d end up keeping my eyesclosed the entire time, but once I was in the air, it was fantastic –peace and quiet, nothing but amazing views all around. It was allover far too quickly, and I really want to do it again.”Zip-line refers to the adrenaline-filled descent down a stainless steelcable between two points. It usually comprises crossing over a canyon,sometimes a river, or simply racing through the trees. When zip-lining,you literally fly through the air; you wear a climbing harness with apulley that attaches to the cable and allows you to race along it. Thespeed depends on the incline of the cable as well as on your weight.Some of the most famous zip-line adventures include tours in the Caribbeanthat lead through the rainforest. The zip-line has its origins inSouth America, but it is also extremely popular in New Zealand and someparts of Europe. The Bovec zip-line is one of the most picturesque as wellas one of the longest adrenaline adventures in Europe.111

Visoko nad oblaki,trdno na tlehPodjetje Avtenta, član Skupine Telekom Slovenije, je prvo izmedvodilnih slovenskih IT sistemskih integratorjev, ki je ponudilo takorekoč samopostrežne poslovne storitve v oblaku. O tej novi ponudbiin poslovni filozofiji, ki pelje Avtento po poti uspeha, smo sepogovarjali z direktorjem podjetja, Vedranom Krevatinom.Kaj je Avtentina skrivnost uspeha?Avtenta je mlado podjetje, ki črpa veliko dobrega izčlanstva v Skupini Telekom Slovenije. Naša dolžnost je,da smo samostojno proaktivni in prodorni, vendar hkratisledimo cilju podpiranja in krepitve celotne Skupineter matične družbe.Stranke dojemamo kot partnerje, ki jim poskušamo vnajvečji možni meri pomagati pri uresničevanju njihovihposlovnih ambicij. Včasih to pomeni, da jim ponudimozgolj nasvet, kako se lotiti zadev, drugič spet se iz tegaodnosa razvijejo obsežnejša sodelovanja na več strokovnihpodročjih.Pri tem nam je v veliko pomoč naša vodilna konkurenčnaprednost, torej sposobnost združevanja poslovnih,tehnoloških, varnostnih in komunikacijskih rešitev v pomeri narejen paket, ki je našim kupcem na voljo na različnenačine, od postavitve in upravljanja v njihovem domačemokolju, do zunanjega izvajanja pri nas.In vse to se odraža na končnem rezultatu, ki ga zaznamujerast tudi v času krize. Kot dodatno pomembnodimenzijo uspeha pa vsekakor štejemo tvorno sodelovanjez matično družbo, ki smo ga poglobili prav na področjuračunalništva v oblaku, kar je odlično izhodiščeza nove ambicije.Torej del vaših novih ambicij vodi v oblake?Vsekakor. Zavedamo se, da so na poti do cilja tako pastikot prednosti. Zato v Avtenti ostajamo trdno na tleh,pozorni na oboje in vseskozi ohranjamo fokus ter posvečamoenergijo novim rešitvam in pristopom.Ta miselnost nas je pripeljala do evolucije procesa načrtovanjain upravljanja, posodobitve korporativne identitetein ne nazadnje tudi do oblikovanja nišne blagovneznamke Avtenta.now, ki v celoti prenaša prednosti računalništvav oblaku poslovnim uporabnikom.Namreč, pri Avtenta.now gre za takoj razpoložljive rešitve,ki jih naročite z enim klikom, za poljubno časovnoobdobje, bodisi zato, ker ne želite vlagati denarja v novstrežnik ali ne morete upravičiti nakupa lastnega strežnikain poslovnih aplikacij za zgolj nekaj uporabnikov.Lahko pa jih brez težav najamete za mesečno naročninoin jih uporabljate v Avtentinem oblaku.Konkretno za kakšne rešitve oziroma storitve gre priAvtenta.now?Pri sestavi ponudbe smo izhajali iz skupnih potreb različnihtipov podjetij in podjetnikov ter pri tem podredilitehnologije reševanju njihovih poslovnih izzivov. Obenempa za vse rešitve ponujamo tehnično in vsebinskopodporo v slovenskem jeziku. Na tem področju imamoveliko izkušenj s svojim klicnim centrom za uporabniškopomoč, ki je lani uspešno obdelal več kot 60 tisoč uporabniškihzahtevkov.Kdo so tipični uporabniki Avtenta.now rešitev?Pogosto se govori, da gre za rešitve, ki so pisane nakožo malim in srednjim podjetjem. Vendar pri nas nevodimo te ločnice, ampak poskušamo ponuditi samopostrežnerešitve, ki so zanimive za mala, srednja in velikapodjetja, pri tem pa vsem trem kategorijam zagotavljamohiter začetek uporabe in enako visoko kakovostter zanesljivost delovanja storitev.Kaj se vam zdi najbolj ključna sestavina za uspeh tovrstneponudbe?Zaupanje. Po eni strani visoka stopnja zaupanja v lastnerešitve in predvsem zaupanje v ljudi, ki te rešitve zagotavljajo,prodajajo in podpirajo iz dneva v dan. Torej zaupanje,ki izhaja iz številnih izkušenj na velikih projektih

»Stranke dojemamokot partnerje, ki jimposkušamo v največjimožni meri pomagati priuresničevanju njihovihposlovnih ambicij.«Vedran Krevatin, direktor podjetja Avtenta, d.o.o.za paradne konje slovenskega gospodarstva. Po drugistrani pa je izjemnega pomena pridobivanje in ohranjanjezaupanja naročnikov za upravljanje in skrb z njihovimiobčutljivimi poslovnimi podatki.Ali uporabniki tem novim storitvam že zaupajo?Storitve računalništva v oblaku niso povsem nove. V resnicijih uporabljamo že dolgo časa, čeprav na to mordanikoli nismo bili posebej pozorni. Na primer spletna e-banka, državni portal e-davki, e-pošta in podobne storitve– vse zasledujejo enak koncept: čeprav te aplikacijeniso nameščene na naših računalnikih, vedno delujejo inso vedno na voljo, kadar jih potrebujemo. Torej so nekjedrugje, nekje v ”oblaku”. Zato osnovno zaupanje in naklonjenostuporabnikov do teh storitev že obstaja. Našanaloga je, da na teh pozitivnih izkušnjah gradimo naprej.Kako konkretno prepričate uporabnike, da soAvtenta.now storitve vredne zaupanja?Nenehno skrbimo za to, da vse storitve nemoteno delujejo24 ur na dan, 7 dni v tednu, 365 dni v letu in seveda,da se programi sproti nadgrajujejo, da se ugotovijo napakena opremi preden te nastopijo in podobno.Lahko pa tudi prevzamemo vso skrb nad delovanjemin upravljanjem opreme in programov ter varovanjempodatkov. To pomeni, da kadarkoli ima kdorkoli kjerkolitežavo z delovanjem računalnika, interneta, e-pošte, tiskalnika,pisarniških programov ali katerekoli poslovneaplikacije, pokliče nas in zadevo sproti uredimo.Zato smo prepričani, da lahko naši uporabniki bolj mirnospijo, saj namesto, da so oprema in z njo povezanatveganja pri njih, se vse nahaja pri nas, v požarno,poplavno in potresno varnih sobah našega matičnegapodjetja, Telekoma Slovenije.Prednosti storitev Avtenta.now• Rešitve v slovenskem jeziku.• 24/7 podpora.• Izjemna stopnja varnosti.• Podatki shranjeni v Sloveniji.• Dostop kadar koli in odkoder koli.• Brez začetnih investicij indolgotrajne implementacije.Zakaj verjamete, da je danes pravi čas za računalništvov oblaku?Vsebine v oblaku so danes tako razpoložljive in nepogrešljive,da je za normalno delovanje namiznih, prenosnihali tabličnih računalnikov internetna povezava enakopomembna kot električno napajanje. Potreba torejobstaja, izziv pa je ponuditi poslovne storitve v oblakuv skladu z najvišjimi standardi odličnosti in varnosti. Toje izziv, ki smo mu zaradi dolgoletnih izkušenj pri zagotavljanjuposlovnih IKT rešitev v Avtenti docela dorasli.now.avtenta.si

Solčavsko: EDEN destinacija 2009The Solčavsko region: EDEN destination 2009ČAROBNI KOTIČKI SLOVENIJETHE ENCHANTING NOOKS OF SLOVENIASolčavsko ujeto med gorami / The Solčavsko region captured amidst mountains (Foto / Photo by: Tomo Jeseničnik)SolčavSko – harmonija treh dolinPastir z ovco avtohtone jezersko-solčavske pasmeA shepherd with a sheep indigenous to Jezersko-Solčava (Foto / Photo by: Tomo Jeseničnik)www.slovenia.infokmalu zatem, ko so mogočne sile iz globin tetidinega morja dvignilegorovje kamniško-Savinjskih alp, je v kotanji med gorami vznikniloživljenje. med ostrimi, v nebo štrlečimi skalami se je menda sprehajalavelikanska ajdovska deklica, šivala z veliko kamnito šivanko, se sklanjalaz gore raduhe in prala v reki Savinji.v skrite, z življenjem bogate kotičke alp je pred več kot 25-tisoč leti,v stari kameni dobi, stopila noga ledenodobnega lovca. Zadrževal se jetudi v skalni votlini imenovani Potočka zijalka. izdeloval je igle, koščenekonice in kamnita orodja, igral na prapiščal ter lovil divjad.ob polzenju v doline so ledeniki med počasnim taljenjem oblikovali čudovitealpske doline. med njimi tudi logarsko dolino, robanov kot inmatkov kot, ki danes sestavljajo Solčavsko območje. ljudje živijo tu povezaniz naravo že stoletja. mnoge navade, običaje in verovanja iz preteklostije še dandanes moč najti v vsakdanjiku gostoljubnih domačinov.Solčavsko je nagrajeno z nazivom evropska destinacija odličnosti zaturizem v varovanih območjih, ker na neponovljiv način združuje ohranjanjenarave z življenjem domačinov in zvedavostjo obiskovalcev izvsega sveta.www.solcavsko.infoiZvir Soče:BoŽanSki iZvir SmaraGdne SveŽineizvir reke Soče je eden najlepših kraških izvirov v slovenskih gorah.vode, ki se zbirajo na območju jalovca, Šit, travnika in mojstrovke, vrejona dan iz jame s podzemnim jezercem ter se skozi ozko sotesko zlivajov približno 10 m visok slap. Zeleno lesketajoč tolmun kristalne izvirskevode pospremi prve brzice in slapiče smaragdne reke Soče na 136 kmdolgo pot proti morju. ljudsko izročilo pripoveduje, da so v trenti živelibog triglav, bog jalovec in bog mangrt. ko je v trento prišel hudobnivodobruhec, ki je poplavljal vasi, so se bogovi domenili, da ga zaprejo inzavežejo v votlino. Usta so mu odprli toliko, da lahko namaka dolino. kobo odslužil svojo kazen, ga bodo rešili in takrat bo Soča presahnila. doizvira dostopamo v idilični dolini trenta, osrčju triglavskega narodnegaparka, 22 km iz kraja Bovec. od koče pri izviru Soče vodi označena pot,ki nas po 15 minutah pripelje do izvira. Pot je urejena ter v zgornjemdelu zavarovana s klini in jeklenicami. Potrebna je primerna obutev terustrezna fizična pripravljenost. Pri izviru Soče se prične tudi 20 km dolgaSoška pot, ki pohodnike očara s številnimi naravnimi in kulturnimiznamenitostmi ter nepozabnimi razgledi na vrhove julijskih alp.www.bovec.si

OglasnO spOrOčilO - advertisingrobanov kot and matkov kot, which today compose the region of Solčavsko.People here have lived hand in hand with nature for centuries. many habits,customs and beliefs from the past can still be seen in today’s daily routinesof its hospitable locals.The Solčavsko region has been awarded the title of the european Destinationof excellence for tourism in protected areas, because it combines natureconservation and the life of locals with the curiosity of visitors coming fromall parts of the world in a unique way.www.solcavsko.infoIzvir SočeThe Soča spring (Foto / Photo by: Marko Pretner)SolčavSko –a harmony of three valleySSoon after the mighty forces elevated the mountains of the kamnik-Savinjaalps from the depths of the tethys Sea, life emerged in the basin formedamidst the mountains. In between these sharp sky-projected rocks, the giantpagan girl ajdovska deklica is said to have wandered, sewed with a bigstone needle, leaned from mount raduha and washed in the Savinja river.over 25,000 years ago, in the early Stone age, the ice-age hunter set foot inthe hidden alpine nooks and crannies bursting with life. he would keep himselfin a rock cavern called Potočka zijalka. he made needles, bone pointsand stone tools, played the ancient whistle and hunted deer.Slowly melting and sliding down the mountains and into valleys, glacierscreated magnificent alpine valleys. among these are the logarska valley,the Soča SPrInG:a DIvIne SPrInG of emeralD freShneSSThe spring of the Soča river is one of the most beautiful karstic springsin the Slovenian mountains. The waters gathering in the region of mountsJalovec, Šite, travnik and mojstrovka surge from a cavern with an undergroundlake and, making their way through a narrow ravine, flow into a10-metre waterfall. The green twinkling pool of crystal clear spring waterescorts the first rapids and cascades of the emerald Soča river to its136-kilometre long journey to the sea. folklore tells a story of the godstriglav, Jalovec and mangrt living in trenta. When the evil water-spewerwho flooded villages came to trenta, the gods arranged to close and tightenhim up in a cavern. his mouth was left open only to such a degree so as to allowhim to irrigate the valley. When he serves his sentence, he will be savedand, at that time, the Soča will dry up. you can reach the spring in the idyllictrenta valley, the heart of triglav national Park, by travelling 22 km fromthe town of Bovec. from the mountain hut next to the Soča spring, followthe marked trail leading to the spring. The 15-minute trail is organised and,at the top section, protected with spikes and wire ropes. you will require appropriateshoes and physical fitness. at the spring of the Soča, you can alsoset out on the 20-kilometre Soča trail, which dazzles hikers with its neverendingnatural and cultural sights and unforgettable views of the peaks ofthe Julian alps.www.bovec.siRobanov kot - Planinci v krajinskem parku Robanov kotHikers in the Robanov Kot Regional Park (Foto / Photo by: Rinka Centre archives)Velika korita SočeGreat Soča Gorge (Foto/ Photo by: David Štulc Zornik, arhiv LTO Bovec)SLOVENIJAZelena. aktivna. Zdrava.SLOVENIAGreen. active. healthy.

SLOVENIJA / SLOVENIANekaj osnovnih podatkovA few factspovršina (v km 2 ) 20 273gozdovi 11 854travniki 5 593polja in vrtovi 2 471sadovnjaki 402vinogradi 163dolžina meje (v km)s Hrvaško 546z Avstijo 324z Italijo 235z Madžarsko 102obala (v km) 46,6najvišja točkaTriglavgostota naseljenosti2864 m(prebivalcev/km) 98prebivalstvo2 milijonaglavno mesto: Ljubljanavečja mesta:Maribor, Celje, Kranj, Velenjepodnebje:alpsko, celinsko, sredozemskojezik: Uradni jezik jeslovenščina, na območjihz mešanim prebivalstvompa tudi madžarščina initalijanščina.Pri stiku s tujci uporabljajoprebivalci Slovenije največkratangleščino, nemščino,italijanščino in francoščino.denarna valuta: Denarna valutaje evro (EUR). Tuje valute lahkozamenjate na mejnih prehodih,v bankah, menjalnicah inhotelih.territory area (in sq. km) 20273forests 11 854grassland 5 593fields and gardens 2 471orchards 402vineyards 163border length (in km)with Croatia 546with Austria 324with Italy 235with Hungary 102coastline (in km) 46.6highest pointTriglavpopulation density2864 m(inhabitants/km) 98population2 millioncapital:Ljubljanamajor towns:Maribor, Celje, Kranj, Velenjeclimate: Alpine, Continental,Mediterraneanlanguage: The official languageis Slovene, as well as Hungarianand Italian in areas of mixedpopulation.People who live in Sloveniamost commonly use English tocommunicate with foreigners,then German, Italian andFrench.currency: The currency is theeuro (EUR). Foreign currencymay be exchanged at bordercrossings, in banks, exchangeoffices and hotels.prazniki1. in 2. januar novo leto8. februar prešernov dan, slovenski kulturni praznik8. april velika noč27. april dan upora proti okupatorju(druga svetovna vojna)1. in 2. maj praznik dela25. junij dan državnosti15. avgust Marijino vnebovzetje31. oktober dan reformacije1. november dan spomina na mrtve25. december božič26. december dan samostojnostiholidaysJanuary 1 & 2February 8April 8April 27May 1 & 2June 25August 15October 31November 1December 25December 26New Year’s HolidayPrešeren Day, Slovene Day of Cultureeaster Sunday and MondayDay of Uprising Against the Occupation(WW2)Labour Day, PentecostStatehood DayAssumption DayReformation DayAll Saints’ DayChristmas DayIndependence Day

CopenhagenManchesterAmsterdamBrusselsFrankfurtZurichMunichViennaVeronaLjubljanaBelgradeSarajevoBarcelonaDubrovnikPristinaIbizaMenorcaPalma de MallorcaPodgoricaTiranaSkopjeThessalonikiThassosIstanbulKerkira/CorfuLefkasSkiatosLesbosMaltaKefalonijaZakinthosChiosMykonosSantoriniSamosKosRhodosKarpatosHeraklionDjerba

Evropa / EuropeRedni poletiScheduled Flightszimski in poletni vozni redČarterski poletiCharter FlightsWinter and summer timetableMoscowIz/fromLjubljana/BrnikNm/kmČas poleta/Flight time(A320/CRJ)Iz/fromLjubljana/BrnikNm/kmČas poleta/Flight time(A320/CRJ)Amsterdam 606/1122 1.35 hAntalya 966/1789 2.35 hBarcelona 686/1270 1.46 hAqaba 1454/2692 3.18 hBelgrade 267/494 0.65 hCairo 1276/2363 3.25 hBrussels 559/1035 1.26 hChios 738/1367 2.10 hCopenhagen 641/1187 1.39 hDjerba 796/1474 2.20 hFrankfurt 420/778 1.07 hDubrovnik 292/541 1.05 hIstanbul 781/1446 1.53 hHeraklion 832/1540 2.15 hManchester 868/1608 2.11 hHurghada 1533/2839 3.45 hMoscow (Sheremetyevo) 1120/2074 2.35 hIbiza 799/1480 2.20 hMunich 224/415 0.41 hKarpathos 996/1844 2.35 hPristina 622/1150 1.50 hKefalonija 585/1083 1.45 hPodgorica 365/676 1.25 hKerkira (Corfu) 523/968 1.35 hSarajevo 222/411 0.41 hKos 873/1616 2.20 hSkopje 413/765 1.07 hLarnaca 1197/2216 3.00 hTirana 474/878 1.14 hLefkas (Preveza) 567/1050 1.40 hVienna 153/283 0.30 hLesbos (Mitiline) 746/1381 2.10 hZurich 334/619 0.56 hMalta 670/1241 2.00 hMenorca 646/1196 1.55 hMykonos 793/1468 1.56 hPalma de Mallorca 723/1339 2.10 hRhodos 947/1753 2.30 hSamos 823/1524 2.10 hAntalyaSantorini 836/1548 2.15 hSharm el Sheikh 1505/2787 3.45 hLarnacaIz/from PRIŠTINASkiatos 632/1170 1.50 hThassos (Kavala) 563/1043 1.45 hFrankfurt 930/1722 2.50 hTel Aviv 1286/2382 2.57 hCairoSharm el SheikhHurghadaTel AvivAqabaMunich 646/1196 2.00 hVerona 650/1204 2.00 hThessaloniki 571/1057 1.24 hZakinthos 632/1170 1.50hAdria Airways has used the map or Europe exclusively as an illustration of its flight connections and without any political or other implications.

ADRIA AIRWAYSFlota - FleetIlustracije: Miha ŽnidarAirbus A319Število/Total 2Dolžina/Length33.84 mVišina/Height11.76 mRazpon kril/Wingspan34.10 mHitrost/Cruising speed900 km/hVišina poleta/Max. altitude11 700 mDolet/Range6 650 kmŠt. potnikov/Passenger capacity 135Airbus A320Število/Total 1Dolžina/Length37.57 mVišina/Height11.75 mRazpon kril/Wingspan31.10 mHitrost/Cruising speed900 km/hVišina poleta/Max. altitude11 700 mDolet/Range3 890 kmŠt. potnikov/Passenger capacity 180Bombardier CRJ-900Število/Total 4Dolžina/Length32.50 mVišina/Height7.57 mRazpon kril/Wingspan23.20 mHitrost/Cruising speed882 km/hVišina poleta/Max. altitude12 496 mDolet/Range3 600 kmŠt. potnikov/Passenger capacity 86Bombardier CRJ-200 LRŠtevilo/Total 6Dolžina/Length26.77 mVišina/Height6.22 mRazpon kril/Wingspan21.21 mHitrost/Cruising speed860 km/hVišina poleta/Max. altitude12 496 mDolet/Range3 285 kmŠt. potnikov/Passenger capacity 48/50122

TRGOVINANAD OBLAKIADRIASKYSHOP.siAdria Airways d.d., Zgornji Brnik 130h, 4210 Brnik-AerodromAdria Airways d. d., Zgornji Brnik 130h, 4210 Brnik-Aerodrom Agencija SMMPridružitePridružitesesenamnamnanafacebookufacebook-uininujemiteizkoristiteposebnenajnovejšoponudbeponudbo!in novice!JoinJoinourourfacebookfacebooksitesiteandandstaystaytunedtunedfor ourfor ourlatestnewestoffersoffer!and news!www.facebook.com/AdriaAirways

ADRIA AIRWAYSDobrodošli v letalu Adrie AirwaysSpoštovani potniki, vaše zadovoljstvo je naš uspeh. Da bi bilo potovanje z nami čim bolj prijetno, nam dovolite, da vas opozorimona nekaj napotkov, ki so pomembni za vaše udobje in varnost pred poletom, med njim in po pristanku.Pred poletomEkonomski in poslovni razredNa večini Adrijinih prog izmenično letijo letala tipa Airbus A-319, A-320,Canadair Regional Jet CRJ-200LR in CRJ-900.Vozovnica za potovanje v poslovnem razredu je izdana po veljavni tarifi zaposlovni razred in velja eno leto z možnostjo rezervacije, plačila in prevzemakadarkoli, omogoča pa tudi druge ugodnosti, kot so: sprememba datumovpotovanja brez doplačila, večja količina brezplačne prtljage, uporabaposlovnih salonov na letališčih idr.V ekonomskem razredu potujejo potniki z vozovnicami po ekonomskihtarifah, ki so nižje in vsebujejo določene omejitve.Nakup vozovnice prek spletaLetalsko vozovnico lahko najceneje in hitro rezervirateter kupite na Adrijini spletni strani www.adria.si. To velja le za polete na Adrijinihletih. Nakup prek interneta je zaščiten zvarnostnim certifikatom. Elektronskevozovnice prejme potnik po elektronskipošti.V primeru, da potrebujete letalskovozovnico, kjer bodo vključeni tudidrugi prevozniki, vas prosimo, dapokličete naš Klicni center za rezervacijein prodajo letalskih vozovnic natelefonskih številkah 386 1 369 10 10 in080 13 00.Potujte z elektronsko vozovnicoNa vseh rednih poletih slovenskega letalskega prevoznika je možnoleteti z elektronsko vozovnico.Potnik dobi ob nakupu potniški kupon, ki velja kot račun, in načrt poti(itinerar) v ovitku Adrie Airways. Dokument lahko prejme tudi na svoj elektronskinaslov in ga natisne sam. To dokumentacijo mora imeti s seboj vesčas potovanja. Pri okencu za prijavo na let se identificira s potnim listom aliosebno izkaznico. Uslužbenec izda potniku vstopni kupon za let, s katerimta vstopi v letalo. Elektronski način dokumentiranja prodaje zagotavljasproten vpogled v dogajanje z vozovnico, hiter prenos podatkov inmanjše možnosti zlorab. Najpomembnejše pri tem pa je, da so potnikovikuponi za let shranjeni v elektronski obliki in tako varni pred izgubo.Adria Airways tudi na mobilnih telefonihVsem uporabnikom pametnih telefonov sporočamo, dasi lahko na svojem mobilnem brskalniku nastavite našomobilno stran m.adria.si ali pa s skenerjem kod poskenirateQR kodo.Če skenerja nimate, si ga lahko naložite na povezavi »http://www.i-nigma.com/Download-nigmaReader.html”. Uporabniki iPhona pa to najdete v iStoru.Mobilna stran prinaša: spremljanje statusa letov, informacije o voznem redu,informacije o naših destinacijah in informacije o vremenu na destinacijah.Poleg tega pa lahko na tej strani najdete še: vodič za potnike, turističnivodnik, naše kontakte in različne povezave do sledenja prtljage, iskanjaposlovnih salonov po letališčih in preverjanje milj v klubu Miles&More.Seveda pa so tu še novice in najbolj vroče cenovne ponudbe vozovnic ter»checkmytrip«, kjer lahko preverite svoje potovanje.Web Check-inV Adrii Airways se zavedamo, da je pri potovanju pogosto dragocena vsakaminuta. Še posebej takrat, kadar nas na poti na letališče ovira gost promet.Web check-in je novost, s katero boste prihranili čas pri okencu za prijavona let, saj se nanj lahko prijavite že od doma, z delovnega mesta oziromapovsod, kjer je vzpostavljena internetna povezava. Svoj planirani let lahkoprijavite največ 24 ur in najmanj 60 minut pred poletom. Storitev web--check-in je trenutno možna le za določene lete Adrie Airways. V prihodnjihmesecih bomo obstoječim destinacijam postopoma dodajali še nove.Omejitve pri vnosu živil v EUPotnikom svetujemo, naj pred potovanjem preverijo seznam artiklov,ki jih je mogoče vnesti na območje Evropske skupnosti. Strog nadzornad uvozom mesa, mleka, rib, lupinarjev in drugih tovrstnih izdelkovje nujen za zaščito ljudi in živali pred boleznimi, ki se lahko prenašajos temi živili.V primeru, da carinska služba pri rutinskem pregledu osebne prtljageugotovi prisotnost nedovoljenih živil živalskega izvora, le-te zaseže. Informativniletak “Kaj prinesti domov?” vam je na voljo na naši spletni strani.Več informacij lahko dobite na Glavnem uradu VURS-a ali na njihovi spletnistrani www.vurs.gov.si v poglavju Javne objave/Uvoz živil za osebno rabo.Ročna prtljagaZaradi vaše varnosti in udobja vas vljudno prosimo, da upoštevate mednarodnapravila, ki potniku dovoljujejo imeti pri sebi en kos ročne prtljage vvelikosti 55 x 40 x 23 cm in z največjo težo osem kilogramov.Ročno prtljago namestite v za to namenjeni predal nad sedežem, težje kosepa, če je le mogoče, shranite pod sedež pred sabo. Priporočamo vam, dapredal s prtljago pazljivo odpirate, saj se lahko med poletom predmeti vnjem premaknejo.Na letalih CRJ oddajte večjo ročno prtljago pred letalom. Tam jo takoj poizstopu iz letala tudi prevzemite.Varnostna pravilaEvropska unija je v letu 2006 sprejela nova varnostna pravila. Ta omejujejokoličino tekočin, ki jo lahko vzamete s seboj na letalo.V svoji ročni prtljagi lahko prenašate samo majhne količine tekočin, ki morajobiti shranjene v posamičnih posodah z največjo prostornino 100 mililitrov.Te posode morate zapakirati v prozorno plastično vrečko, ki jo je mogočeznova ponovno zatesniti; prostornina vrečke posameznega potnika ne smebiti večja od enega litra. Med tekočine spadajo: voda in druge pijače, juhein sirupi; kreme, losjoni in olja; parfumi; razpršilci; geli, vključno z geli za lasein tuširanje; posode z vsebinami pod pritiskom, vključno s peno za britje ter124

drugimi penami in dezodoranti; kreme, vključno z zobno kremo; mešanicetekočin in trdih snovi; črtalo za veke in tuš za trepalnice ter katerekoli drugesnovi s podobno vsebnostjo.Še vedno lahko tekočine prenašate v oddani prtljagi – nova pravila se nanašajosamo na ročno prtljago. V svoji ročni prtljagi lahko prenašate:• zdravila in nujno potrebna živila (vključno z otroško hrano), ki jih bosteuporabljali med potovanjem; morda boste morali dokazati, da jih nujnopotrebujete;• tekočine, kot so pijače in parfumi (kupite jih lahko bodisi v prodajalni naletališču v EU, ki je za točko, na kateri pokažete svoj vstopni karton, bodisina letalu, ki ga upravlja prevoznik EU).Če ste tekočine kupili zapakirane v posebni zatesnjeni vrečki, te vrečkepred varnostnim pregledom ne odpirajte, sicer lahko varnostno osebje nakontrolni točki njeno vsebino zaseže. Če na letališču presedate na drug let,vrečke ne odpirajte pred varnostnim pregledom na transfernem letališčuoziroma na zadnjem letališču, če presedate več kot enkrat.Če imate kakršne koli dvome ali vprašanja, se pred potovanjem obrnite nasvojega letalskega prevoznika ali potovalno agencijo.Med letomNapotki za varnostZ najpomembnejšimi varnostnimi napotki vas bo pred poletom seznanilonaše kabinsko osebje, poleg tega pa boste v žepu sedeža pred sabo našlinavodila za postopke v sili. Ker se glede na tip letala ta navodila razlikujejo,vas prosimo, da jih pred vsakim poletom pazljivo preučite.Med vzletanjem in pristajanjem si morate pripeti varnostni pas, zaradi varnostiin udobja pa vam priporočamo, da ostanete pripeti tudi med poletom.Po pristanku počakajte na svojem sedežu, dokler se letalo popolnoma ne ustavioziroma dokler ne ugasne znak za obvezno uporabo varnostnih pasov.Kapitan letala lahko podeli potniku, ki se v letalu neprimerno vede, takoimenovani RDEČI KARTON. Ta je namenjen vsem, ki s svojim vedenjemovirajo delo kabinskega osebja, ne spoštujejo varnostnih pravil ali paogrožajo varnost in udobje potnikov. Napad na varnost zračnega prometaje kaznivo dejanje po 330. členu Kazenskega zakonika RS (KZ-1), ki zatovrstna dejanja predpisuje zaporno kazen.Uporaba elektronskih napravV letalu ni dovoljeno uporabljati prenosnih telefonov (biti morajo popolnomaizključeni!), radijskih in televizijskih sprejemnikov, videoiger z daljinskimupravljanjem, računalniških tiskalnikov in drugih naprav, ki bi lahko z elektromagnetnimivalovi motile delovanje občutljivih letalskih instrumentov.Druge elektronske naprave, denimo prenosne računalnike, CD in DVD predvajalniketer žepne kalkulatorje, je dovoljeno uporabljati le med poletom (čene povzročajo motenj), med vzletanjem in pristajanjem pa ne. Prosimo vas,da se pred uporabo elektronskih naprav posvetujete s kabinskim osebjem indosledno upoštevate njihove napotke.Nevarni predmetiPo mednarodnih varnostnih predpisih potnikom v letalu ni dovoljenoimeti (ne pri sebi ne v prtljagi) orožja in drugih nevarnih predmetov, kot so:vnetljive tekočine, pločevinke s stisnjenim ali utekočinjenim plinom, lahkovnetljive snovi, vžigalice, ki niso označene kot varne, in podobno.Počutje in zdravjeVašemu dobremu počutju sta namenjena ventil za uravnavanje dotokazraka in lučka za branje, ki sta nameščena nad sedežem. Tam je tudipozivni gumb, s katerim lahko po potrebi pokličete članico oziroma članakabinskega osebja.V letalu je na voljo priročna lekarna, opremljena s sredstvi za nudenjeprve pomoči. Med poletom lahko včasih v ušesih občutite neprijetenpritisk, do česar prihaja zaradi sprememb višine in zračnega pritiska vletalu; težavo boste zlahka odpravili s poudarjenim požiranjem sline ali znakazanim zehanjem.Da bi se izognili težavam z ožiljem, ko gre za dolg polet, vam svetujemo,da se večkrat sprehodite po potniški kabini, med sedenjem pa delate vajeza raztezanje celega telesa.Postrežba med letomTudi na letalu bodo člani našega prijaznega osebja lepo poskrbeli za vas.Odvisno od trajanja leta, destinacije in razreda v letalu vam bodo na voljookusni obroki, postrežba pijače, časopisi in naš odlični In-Flight Magazine,na letih izven EU pa boste lahko nakupovali tudi v našem »zračnem« AdriaShopu. Hrana in pijača sta na rednih letih Adrie Airways že vključeni v voznino,na čarterskih poletih pa potnikom zaračunavamo alkoholne pijačepo naslednjem ceniku:• pivo 0,33 l 2,50 €• vino 0,2 l 3,00 €• penina 0,25 l 3,50 €• Chivas Regal 0,05 l 2,10 €• ostale miniature 1,80 €V kolikor pa bi imeli zaradi zdravstvenih, verskih ali ideoloških pogledovkakršnekoli zadržke do določene hrane, vam v Adrii Airways ponujamopester izbor tako imenovanih posebnih obrokov. Izbor si lahko ogledatena naši spletni strani v rubriki Vodič za potnike; pomembno pa je, da svoježelje zaupate svetovalcu že ob rezervaciji oziroma nakupu vozovnice.Alkohol v letaluV letalu ni dovoljeno uživanje alkoholnih pijač, ki jih prinesete s sabo.Kabinsko osebje ne sme streči alkoholnih pijač osebam, ki kažejo znakevinjenosti, in osebam, mlajšim od 18 let. Dobronamerno vas opozarjamo,da alkohol zaradi nekoliko nižjega zračnega pritiska med poletom delujena telo hitreje in bolj intenzivno kot na tleh.po pristankuZamujena, izgubljena ali poškodovanaprtljagaČe bi med vašim potovanjem prišlo donepravilnega ravnanja z vašo registriranoprtljago (velja tudi za prtljago, oddano predletalom), zadevo takoj po prihodu prijavitena letališču pri ustrezni službi (Izgubljeno/Najdeno,Lost&Found, Arrival Service). Telefonskaštevilka pa je + 386 (0) 25 94 339.Center za stike s potnikiV Adrijinem Centru za stike s potniki lahko dobite vse informacije o našiponudbi in novostih pa tudi pomoč ali nasvet.Sem lahko potniki posredujete pritožbo ali odškodninski zahtevek, veselipa bomo tudi pohvale. Na naš center se lahko obrnete osebno, pisno, poelektronski pošti prc@adria.si ali po telefonu na brezplačno številko 080 1303 za klice znotraj Slovenije oziroma kot doslej na telefonsko številko +386(0)1 369 11 33.Najem avtomobila in hoteliNa Adrijini spletni strani je zavihek Rent-a-car, ki vam omogoča najugodnejšinajem vozila. Zelo enostavno: obiščite www.adria.si. Pri Budgetu lahko najametevozilo na več kot 3.400 lokacijah v 128 državah po vsem svetu.125

ADRIA AIRWAYSAdria Airways Welcomes You AboardDear passengers, your satisfaction is our success. In order to ensure that your Adria flight is as pleasant as possible, allow usto draw your attention to certain points that are important for your comfort and safety before take-off, during the flightand after landinG.Before take-offEconomy and business classThe majority of Adria routes are served by the following aircraft: Airbus A319 andA320, Bombardier CRJ-200 LR and CRJ-900.A business-class ticket is issued according to the current business-class tariff andis valid for one year. The ticket can be booked, paid for and picked up at any timeand includes other advantages such as changing the date of travel without additionalcharge, a larger free baggage allowance, the use of business lounges atairports, etc. Economy class is for passengers with economy-class tickets, whichare cheaper and carry certain restrictions.Online ticketingThe cheapest and quickest way to book a flight and buy a ticket is to visit Adria’swebsite at www.adria.si. This only applies to flights operated by Adria. Onlinepurchases are protected by a security certificate. Passengers receive their electronictickets via e-mail.If you require a ticket that will also include other carriers, please contact our CallCentre for Reservations and Ticket Sales on: 386 1 369 10 10 or 080 13 00.Travel with an electronic ticketYou can travel with an electronic ticket on all Adria Airwaysscheduled flights. On purchasing a ticket, passengers receive apassenger coupon and itinerary in an Adria Airwayscover. You can also receive the document via e-mailand print it yourself. You must keep this documentwith you throughout the journey. At the check-in,present your passport or identity card. The checkinpersonnel will issue you with your boardingpass. Electronic documentation of the ticket salemeans that the ticket status can be verified atany time. It also facilitates rapid transfer of dataand reduces the chance of abuse. Most importantly,there is no danger of losing the boardingpass, since it is stored in electronic form.Adria Airways on mobile phonesTo all smartphone users – we would like to inform you thatyou can now set our mobile site, m.adria.si, on your mobilebrowser or scan your QR code with a barcode scanner.If you do not have a barcode scanner, you can downloadone by clicking the following link http://www.i-nigma.com/Downloadi-nigmaReader.html. iPhone users can find this in the iStore.The mobile site provides information on the following: flight status, timetables,destinations and weather conditions.In addition, you will also find the following: travellers guide, tourist guide, ourcontact details and various links to: baggage tracking, searches by airportbusiness lounge, and frequent flyer miles in the Miles & More Club.Of course, you can also find news, the hottest ticket price bids and “checkmytrip”where you can check information on your trip.Web Check-inAt Adria we are aware that every minute is precious when you are travelling.Especially when heavy traffic holds you up on the way to the airport. The webcheck-in service is a new service that lets you save time at the check-in desk:because you can check in from home or office – or anywhere with an Internetconnection. You can check in as early as 24 hours and up to 60 minutes beforeyour scheduled departure time. Web check-in is currently only available onselected Adria flights. In the coming months new destinations will graduallybe added.Restrictions on bringing food into the EUWe advise passengers to check the list of articles that may be brought into theEU before travelling. Strict controls of the import of meat, milk, fish, shellfishand products derived from them is necessary to protect people and animalsfrom the diseases that they can transmit.If customs officials discover prohibited foodstuffs of animal origin duringroutine luggage checks, they will be confiscated. The informative leaflet “Whatto bring home” is available on our website.More information is available from the Veterinary Administration of the Republicof Slovenia or on its website http://www.vurs.gov.si/ under the section PublicAnnouncements/Import of Foodstuffs for Personal Use.Carry-on baggageFor your safety and comfort, we ask you to observe international rules thatpermit passengers to have one piece of carry-on baggage of a maximum sizeof 55 x 40 x 23 cm and a maximum weight of 8 kg.Carry-on baggage should be placed in the overhead bins. Heavier items maybe stored under the seat in front of you if possible.We recommend that you take care when opening the overhead bins as itemsmay have moved during the flight and may fall out.If your flight is on a CRJ aircraft, larger items of carry-on baggage must be surrenderedon boarding. They will be returned to you when you leave the aircraft.EU airport security rulesIn 2006 the European Union adopted new security rules that restrict theamount of liquids that passengers can take aboard aircraft.You are only allowed to take small quantities of liquids in your hand luggage.These liquids must be in individual containers with a maximum capacityof 100 millilitres each. These containers must be packed in one transparentre-sealable plastic bag of not more than one litre capacity per passenger.Liquids include: water and other drinks, soups, syrups; creams, lotions andoils; perfumes; sprays; gels, including hair and shower gels; contents of pressurisedcontainers, including shaving foam, other foams and deodorants;pastes, including toothpaste; liquid-solid mixtures; mascara; any other itemof similar consistency.126

You can still:• pack liquids in bags that you check in – the new rules only affect hand luggage;• carry in your hand luggage medicines and dietary requirements, including babyfoods, for use during the trip. You may be asked for proof that they are needed;• buy liquids such as drinks and perfumes in an EU airport shop when locatedbeyond the point where you show your boarding pass or on board an aircraftoperated by an EU airline. If they are sold in a special sealed bag, do not openit before you are screened – otherwise the contents may be confiscated at thecheckpoint. (If you transfer at an EU airport, do not open the bag before screeningat your airport of transfer, or at the last one if you transfer more than once).• If you have any doubts, please ask your airline or travel agent in advance of travel.During the flightSafety informationOur cabin crew will give you important safety information before take-off.You will find instructions for emergency procedures in the pocket of the seatin front of you. Since these procedures differ depending on the type ofaircraft, we ask you to read the instructions carefully beforeevery flight.During take-off and landing you must fasten yourseatbelt. For your own safety and comfort we alsorecommend that you leave it fastened during theflight. After landing, wait in your seat until theaircraft comes to a complete stop or until theseatbelt sign is switched off.The captain can issue a passenger who acts inappropriatelyon the aircraft with what is called a REDCARD. The red card is intended for anyone whosebehaviour obstructs the work of the cabin crew, whodoes not observ safety instructions or who threatens thesafety and comfort of passengers. Unacceptable behaviouron board an aircraft is a violation of the law. Placing airtraffic in jeopardy is a criminal offence in accordance with Article 330of the Criminal Code of the Republic of Slovenia (KZ-1), carrying with it thepenalty of imprisonment.Use of electronic devicesUse of the following devices is not permitted aboard the aircraft: mobilephones (they must be switched off!), radios and televisions, video gameswith remote control, computer printers and other devices emitting electromagneticwaves which could interfere with sensitive aircraft systems.Other electronic devices such as portable computers, CD and DVD playersand pocket calculators may only be used during the flight (if they do notcause a disturbance). They may not be used during take-off and landing.Please check with the cabin crew before using electronic devices and be sureto follow their instructions.Hazardous itemsUnder international safety regulations air passengers may not transport, eitheron their person or in their luggage, weapons and other hazardous itemssuch as flammable liquids, compressed or liquefied gas cylinders, highlyinflammable materials, matches (except safety matches), and so on.Comfort and healthFor your comfort, an adjustable air vent and a reading light are locatedabove your seat. There is also a button which you can use to call a memberof the cabin crew if necessary.The aircraft is equipped with a first aid kit. During the flight you may feel an uncomfortablepressure in your ears. This is caused by changes in altitudeand the airpressure in the aircraft; swallowing or yawning will help relieve the discomfort.In order to avoid vein problems associated with long flights, we advise you totake frequent walks up and down the cabin and to do stretching exercises forthe whole body while seated.Service during the flightOur friendly staff will also serve you while on board the aircraft. Dependingon the length of the flight, the destination and the class of travel, youwill be offered tasty meals, drink service, newspapers and our outstandingInFlight magazine, and on longer flights you can also make purchases inour “airborne” Adria Shop. Meals and drinks are included in the ticket priceon scheduled flights, while on charter flights passengers have to pay foralcoholic beverages:• Beer 0,33l• Wine 0,2l• Sparkling Wine 0,25l• Chivas Regal 0,05l• Other miniature liquers2,50 eur3,00 eur3,50 eur2,10 eur1,80 eurWith a thought of each passanger we carefully prepaireda huge sellection of the so-called special mealswhich you could order. Reason being either medicalor religious, a matter or your life style or personalbelief – there is something for each one of you. Avariety of special meals is to be found on our website,just follow the Passanger Guide tab. However, it is ofsignificant importance to state you wish as soon asyou book or purchase your ticket.Alcohol on boardConsuming alcoholic beverages that you have brought onboard the aircraft yourself is not permitted. The cabin crew is notallowed to serve alcohol to passengers who show signs of intoxicationor to passengers under 18 years old. Please bear in mind that because of thelower air pressure during flight, alcohol has a faster and stronger effect thanon the ground.After landingDelayed, lost and damaged baggageIf problems occur with your checked baggage during your journey (also appliesto luggage surrendered on boarding), contact the appropriate serviceas soon as you arrive at the airport (Lost & Found, Arrival Service, etc.)Passenger Relations CentreAdria’s Passenger Relations Centre provides you with news and informationabout our services and can also offer assistance and advice.Passengers can submit complaints or compensation claims, and praise is alwayswelcome. You can contact the centre in person, in writing, by e-mail toprc@adria.si, and by phoning the free telephone number 080 13 03 if callingfrom Slovenia, +386 1 369 11 33 if calling from outside Slovenia.Car hire and hotelsThere is a tab on Adria’s website that enables you to hire a car throughoutthe world at favourable rates. Simply visit www.adria.si. Budget offers AdriaAirways customers the best car hire deals in more than 3,400 destinations in128 countries!127

ADRIA AIRWAYSOstale storitve Adrie Airways - Other servicesČarterski prevoziAdria Airways ponuja potnikom, agencijam, podjetjemin drugim letalskim prevoznikom polegsvojih rednih linij tudi čarterske polete iz Ljubljanein vseh drugih (predvsem evropskih) letališč. Zvstopom v Evropsko unijo ponujamo agencijam,podjetjem in drugim letalskim prevoznikom tudipolete z vseh drugih evropskih letališč. Odlikujejonas zlasti prilagodljivost, ažurnost, visoka kakovostin točnost poletov. E-pošta: charter@adria.siChartersIn addition to its scheduled services, AdriaAirways offers charter flights from Ljubljana andother (mainly European) airports to passengers,agencies, companies and other carriers. Now thatSlovenia is part of the European Union, we canalso offer flights from all other European airportsto agencies, companies and other carriers. Adriacharters offer flexibility, up-to-the-minute services,high quality and punctuality.E-mail: charter@adria.siPrevoz tovoraBlagovna služba Adrie Airways odpremi vse pošiljke hitro in kakovostnodo vseh letališč po svetu. V sodelovanju z drugimi prevozniki ins pomočjo računalniško podprtega rezervacijskega sistema spremljamovsako pošiljko od sprejema do predaje naslovniku.Naša blagovna služba in prodajna zastopništva v tujini vam bodoz veseljem pomagala odpremiti oz. dostaviti blago po najhitrejši incenovno najugodnejši poti.ADRIA CARGO, Letališče Ljubljana – Prevoz tovoraTelefon: + 386 (04) 259 43 40, Faks + 386 (04) 202 30 30E-pošta: cargo@adria.siCargoThe Adria Airways cargo service provides fast, high-quality goods transportto every airport in the world. In conjunction with other carriers, andwith the help of a computerised booking system, we monitor every itemfrom reception to delivery.Our goods service and sales offices abroad will be happy to help you dispatchor deliver goods by the fastest and most competitively priced route.ADRIA CARGO, Ljubljana Jože Pučnik Airport – Cargo Transport,Telephone: + 386 (04) 259 43 40, Fax: + 386 (04) 202 30 30,E-mail: jp.cargo@adria.siUradni prevoznik dogodkovKot sodobna družba razumemo potrebe poslovnega vsakdanjika, kise vse pogosteje odvija v globalnem prostoru. Zato stopamo naprotitistim, ki organizirajo konference, kongrese, sejme ali druge mednarodnedogodke tako, da postanemo njihov uradni ekskluzivni prevoznik,udeležencem ter organizatorju pa nudimo posebne ugodnosti. Preprosto,učinkovito in prilagojeno potrebam svojih uporabnikov poskrbimoza to, da poteka dogodek uspešno, udeleženci pa prispejo nacilj pravočasno, varno in zanesljivo. Kot članica združenja Star AllianceIahko za večje mednarodne kongrese zagotovimo produkt “ConventionsPlusTM”, v sklopu katerega postane več članov združenja uradniprevoznik dogodka. Za vse nadaljnje informacije smo dosegljivi poelektronski pošti: events@adria.siOfficial events carrierAs a modern company we understand the needs of modern business, whichincreasingly takes place in the global arena. For this reason we are ideallypositioned to work with organisers of conferences, congresses, fairs and otherinternational events by becoming their official exclusive carrier and offeringdiscounted fares and other advantages to participants and organisers.With a simple, efficient approach adapted to the needs of our customers, wemake sure that the event runs smoothly, with participants arriving at theirdestination on time, safely and reliably. As a Star Alliance member we offer theConventions Plus service for major international conferences, which effectivelymakes all Star Alliance members the official carrier for the event. For moreinformation write to us at: events@adria.si.128

Panoramski poletiLetenje je doživetje. Podarite sebi ali svojim najbljižnjim, prijateljem aliznancem nepozabno doživetje. V Adria Airways Letalska Šola d.o.o. so zavas pripravili nekaj najpogostejših in priljubljenih panoramskih poletovtako po Sloveniji, kot tudi v sosednjih državah. Seveda pa lahko panoramskilet sestavite tudi po lastnem izboru. Da je polet res prijetno doživetje,je datum letenja v dogovoru s pilotom seveda vedno možno prilagajatiglede na vremenske razmere.Panoramski polet se običajno izvaja iz letališča na Brniku, na dobrih300 metrih višine nad terenom, z enomotornim propelerskim letalom,povprečne hitrosti prbližno 220 km/h. Letenje je možno z enim potnikom(dvosedežno letalo) ali z do tremi potniki (štirisedežno letalo).Več informacij dobite na: www.letileti.siPanoramic FlightsFlying is an adventure. Give the gift of an unforgettable experience to yourselfor your loved ones, friends or acquaintances. Adria Airways Letalska Šola d.o.o.has compiled a selection of the most popular and frequently chosen panoramicflights over Slovenia and the neighbouring countries. Alternatively, you canchoose a panoramic flight tailored to your own wishes. To ensure that the flightis a truly enjoyable and memorable experience, the flight date can be changeddepending on weather conditions by agreement with the pilot.For panoramic flights, we use a single engine propeller plane that usually takesoff from Brnik Airport and flies at an altitude of some 300 m and at an averagespeed of around 220 kmph. Flights can be conducted with one passenger(two-seat plane) or with up to three passengers (four-seat plane).For more information, please visit: www.letileti.siKlubi zvestobe - Loyalty ClubsPartnerska karticaDiners Club-AdriaPotniki s stalnim prebivališčem v Republiki Sloveniji se lahko odločiteza skupno plačilno kartico Diners Cluba in Adrie Airways. Z uporabopartnerske plačilne kartice Diners Club-Adria lahko zbirate milje in koristitenagradne vozovnice in druge ugodnosti v programu Miles & More. Vsakporabljen evro vam bo prinesel 1 miljo. Dogovor, sklenjen med Adrio inklubom Miles & More, prinaša imetnikom partnerske kartice pomembnododatno ugodnost: milje, zbrane z nakupi s plačilno kartico Diners Club--Adria, ne zapadejo, če ste vsaj tri mesece član. Kartica pa vam odpira vratain nudi brezplačne storitve tudi v več kot 130 letaliških salonih po vsemsvetu, kjer boste lahko v miru počakali na odhod svojega letala, brezplačnoprelistali časopis, se osvežili z napitki, telefonirali ali poslali faks.Informacije: telefon 080 13 45, www.dinersclub.si, info@dinersclub.siDiners ClubAdria Partner CardPassengers with permanent residence in Slovenia can obtain the joint DinersClub and Adria Airways charge card. By using the Diners Club – Adria Airwayscharge card, you can collect miles and enjoy bonus tickets and other privilegesin the Miles & More programme. Every euro spent will give you one mile. Theagreement between Adria and Miles & More brings partner card holders animportant additional benefit: miles collected through purchases using the DinersClub- Adria payment card will not lapse if you have been a member for at leastthree months, you use the card for at least one purchase each month and yousettle your account balance on time. At the same time, the card opens the doorto free services in more than 130 airport lounges around the world, where youcan await your departure in tranquillity, browse through newspapers, enjoy arefreshing drink, make phone calls or send faxes.Information: Telephone: 080 13 45, www.dinersclub.si, info@dinersclub.si129

ADRIA AIRWAYSStar AllianceStar AlliancePARTNERSTVOAdria Airways je letalski prevoznik z več kot 50-letnimi izkušnjami v čarterskemin rednem prometu. Uspešno sodeluje v evropskih integracijskih tokovihin se partnersko povezuje z drugimi letalskimi prevozniki. Decembra2004 se je Adria kot regionalna članica pridružila največjemu globalnemuzdruženju letalskih prevoznikov Star Allianceu, z januarjem 2010 pa jenapredovala v polnopravno članico združenja.Potnikom zagotavljamo vse prednosti, ki jih prinaša izboljšan dostop dosvetovnega omrežja prevoznikov, združenih v Star Allianceu. V povezavi spartnerji vam omogočamo dostop do svetovne mreže poletov 27 letalskihprevoznikov, ki z več kot 21.500 leti dnevno povezujejo 1.356 destinacij v193 državah.Poleg tega so vam na voljo ugodnosti, ki jih ponujajo prevozniki, člani StarAlliancea, kot so: prijava na let do končne destinacije, priznavanje statusa,vstop v letališke salone ter zbiranje in uveljavljanje točk ali milj v okviruprogramov za pogoste potnike. Za številne destinacije po svetu so vam navoljo potovanja po ugodnejših cenah in posebna ponudba Star AllianceaRound the World – potovanje okoli sveta. Za več informacij smo vam navoljo na naših prodajnih mestih.Star AlliancePartnershipAdria Airways has more than 50 years of experience in operating both charterand scheduled flights. We are successfully participating in the process ofEuropean integration and have established partnership arrangements withother air carriers. In December 2004 Adria joined Star Alliance, the world’slargest airline alliance, as a regional member and later became a full memberin January 2010.Our customers now benefit from improved access to the world-wide StarAlliance network. In connection with our partners, we offer access to a globalnetwork of flights on 27 airlines, which offer more than 21,500 flights dailyserving 1,356 destinations in 193 countries.Moreover, our passengers enjoy customer benefits offered by Star Alliancemember carriers, such as through check-in, status recognition, lounge access,frequent-flyer accrual and redemption. Reduced fares are available fornumerous destinations throughout the world, along with the Star AllianceRound-the-World special offer. We will be glad to provide details at any Adriasales outlet.Zbirajte in izkoristite milje na eni sami kartici pri vsehletalskih družbah, članicah združenja Star AllianceZdruženje Star Alliance s svojo obsežno mrežo poletov omogoča potnikomudobno, hitro in enostavno potovalno izkušnjo po vsem svetu.Pogosti potniki lahko sedaj zbirajo milje pri vseh 27 članicah na eni samičlanski kartici. Izkoristijo jih lahko tako, da na katerokoli od 1356 destinacijvzamejo s seboj kogarkoli od svojih družinskih članov.Za več informacij o mreži Star Alliance in ostalih ugodnostih, ki vam jih taponuja, obiščite spletno stran www.staralliance.comTo si zaslužite.Earn and spend miles on just one card across all Star Alliancemember airlines.The Star Alliance network is the world’s most comprehensive airline alliance,ensuring a smoother travel experience with worldwide reach and greater choice.Member airline frequent flyers can now earn miles across the network’s 27member airlines, all on one card. And spend them taking their families withthem to any of our 1356 destinations worldwide.To find out more about the Star Alliance network and other benefits, visitstaralliance.comYou’ve earned it.130

MILES & MOREDobrodošli v Miles & MoreRazlog več, da poletitez Adrio AirwaysAdria Airways nudi svojim pogostim potnikom program Miles & More in jims tem omogoča pestrost zbiranja in uporabljanja milj v celotni mreži poletovčlanic zveze Star Alliance. Sem spadajo tudi vse redne proge Adrie Airways.PrijavaPrijavite se lahko s prijavnico, ki jo dobite na vseh prodajnih mestih in vletalih Adrie Airways, ali pa to storite na naslovu www.adria.si na našihspletnih straneh.Zbiranje miljMilje lahko zbirate na celotni mreži poletov članic zveze Star Alliance. Dodatnemilje lahko zbirate z bivanjem v hotelih, najemom vozil, telefoniranjem,nakupi v določenih trgovinah in z uporabo kreditnih kartic.Podroben seznam vseh partnerjev, ki vas nagrajujejo v okviru Miles & Moreprograma najdete na www.miles-and-more.com v rubriki »Earn miles«.Zbrane milje so veljavne tri leta. Člani Miles & More v Sloveniji lahko pridobijonagradne milje tudi s partnersko plačilno kartico Diners Club-Adria. Vsaknakup v vrednosti 1 EUR vam prinese eno miljo. Čas veljavnosti zbranih miljje neomejen, če plačilno kartico uporabljate najmanj 3 mesece, opravite z njovsak mesec vsaj en nakup in račune poravnate v roku.Koriščenje miljZbrane milje lahko porabite za številne nagrade: nagradne vozovnice na progahčlanic Star Alliancea, potovanje v višjem razredu, počitniška potovanja,nakup različnih artiklov.Članske karticeZ včlanitvijo postanete član programa in imetnik osnovne kartice. Doseženoštevilo zahtevanih statusnih milj, zbranih v koledarskem letu, zagotavlja višjenivoje članstva, kot so: srebrni član ali Frequent Traveller, zlati član ali Senatorin HON Circle Member. Višji nivo članstva vam prinese posebne ugodnosti. Teso prednost na čakalnih listah, prevoz večje količine prtljage, vstop v oslovnesalone idr. Člansko kartico imejte vedno pri roki, potrebujete jo za beleženjemilj, uveljavljanje ugodnosti in naročanje nagrad. Splošna pravila in pogojiprograma Miles & More so objavljeni na www.miles-and-more.com.RegistrationYou can join the programme by filling in the registration form available at allsales offices and on board Adria Airways aircraft, or by registering online at ourwebsite, www.adria.si.Earning milesYou can collect miles within the entire Star Alliance network. You can also collectadditional miles through hotel stays, car rental, telephone calls, purchases atselected shops and using your credit cards. The complete list of all Miles & Morepartners can be found on www.miles-and-more.com in »Earn miles« section.Miles & More members in Slovenia can also receive award miles with the partnerDiners Club-Adria credit card. Every euro charged earns you 1 mile. Miles collectedthrough purchases using the Diners Club-Adria payment card will notlapse if you have been a member for at least three months, you use the card forat least one purchase each month and you settle your account balance on time.Spending milesYou can use the miles you have accumulated for various benefits: award ticketson Star Alliance member routes, upgrades to business class, holiday travel andvarious purchases.Membership cardsYou become a member as soon as you join. Accumulating the required numberof status miles in a calendar year leads to higher levels of membership: silvermember or Frequent Traveller, gold member or Senator and HON Circle Member.A higher level of membership offers you special benefits, such as priority onwaiting lists, excess baggage allowance, airport lounge access and so on.Miles are valid for three years. Always have your membership card on hand,because you’ll need it to register miles, claim benefits and request awards.General Terms and Conditions of the Miles & More programme can be found onwww.miles-and-more.com.Welcome aboard Adria Airways, a Star Alliance member!For information on miles, latest news about programme and to order awardtickets or other benefits, call the Miles & More call centre at +386 40 747 440.You’ll be asked for your membership number and PIN code. We’ll be happy totake your calls in Slovene from 8 am to 6 pm. Service is also available in Englishand German outside these hours.Dobrodošli na poletih Adrie Airways, članice združenja Star Alliance!V klicnem centru Miles & More na tel. št. (0)40 747 440 smo vam na voljoza posredovanje informacije o zbranih miljah, o novostih v klubu in zanaročila nagradnih vozovnic ter drugih nagrad. Navesti morate članskoštevilko in PIN kodo. V delovnem času od 8. do 18. ure vam bodo informacijena voljo v slovenskem jeziku, kasneje v angleškem ali nemškem.wELCOME TO Miles & MoreOne more reason forflying Adria AirwaysAdria Airways offers its frequent flyers the chance to join the Miles & Moreprogramme, which makes available a variety of ways to collect and use miles onthe entire flight network of Star Alliance members. All Adria Airways scheduledservices are included in this network.131

ADRIA AIRWAYSProdaja vozovnic in rezervacije - Ticket offices and bookingAdria AirwaysZgornji Brnik 130h4210 Brnik - AerodromKlicni center / call centre:tel: +386 (0)1 36 91 010, 080 13 00, FAX: +386 (0)4 25 94 573E-mail: booking@adria.siPoslovalnice / Sales offices:Letališče Jožeta PučnikaLJUBLJANALJUBLJANA Jože PučnikAirportAdria Airways Sales OfficeTel.: +386 (0)4 25 94 245Fax: +386 (0)4 23 63 461E-mail: adr.prodaja@adria.siAMSTERDAMAdria AirwaysTel.: +31 20 625 11 22Fax: +32 2 753 23 37Airport Ticketing DeskAmsterdam Schiphol AirportAviapartnerTerminal 2Tel.: +31 20 79 52 600Fax: +31 20 79 52 601E-mail: adr.amsairport@adria.siBARCELONAAdria Airways, General Sales AgentKompas SpainC/ Paris, 162-164 Entlo 2a08036 BarcelonaTel.: + 34 93 246 67 77Fax: +34 93 245 41 88E-mail: adr.barcelona@adria.siBELGRADEAdria Airways, General Sales AgentOKI AIR INTERNATIONALAirport “Nikola Tesla”11180 Belgrade 59Tel/Fax: +381 11 2286457,2286458, 2097457E-mail: okiairbeg@oki.me,adr.belgrade@adria.siBRUSSELSAdria AirwaysBrussels Airport – Box 41930 ZaventemTel.: +32 (0)2 75 32 336Fax: +32 (0)2 75 32 337E-mail: adr.brussels@adria.siAdria Airways Ticket DeskFlightcare row 5Airport Zaventem / BrusselsTel.: +32 (0)2 75 32 335COPENHAGENAdria Airways, General Sales AgentA CVITAN ABTings Gatan 2256 56 Helsingborg, SWEDENTel.: +46 (0)42 28 47 78Fax: +46 (0)42 14 47 78Mobil: +46 708 28 47 78E-mail: adr.copenhagen@adria.sia.cvitan@adria-airways.sevozovnice: info@adria-airways.dkAdria Airways Airport Ticket DeskCopenhagen AirportTerminal 2, Floor 2, Office 2302770 Kastrup, DenmarkTel. & Fax: +45 (0)32 51 59 59Mobil: +46 708 28 47 78E-mail: adr.copenhagen@adria.siFRANKFURTAdria AirwaysFrankfurt AirportTerminal 1, Building 201Room 201. 4043/4044P.O.Box 039, 60549 Frankfurt am MainTel.: +49 (0)69 269 56 720, 269 56 721Fax: +49 (0)69 269 56 730E-mail: adr.frankfurt@adria.siAdria Airways Airport Ticket DeskFrankfurt Airport, Terminal 1, Hall BSales Desk 307P.O.Box 039, 60549 Frankfurt am MainTel. +49 (0)69 269 56 722ISTANBULAdria Airways, General Sales AgentACMHalaskargazi Mah.Valikonağı Cad. No: 5 34371, NişantaşıIstanbul / TURKEYTel +90 212 232 01 10Fax +90 212 232 01 44Mobi +90 532 283 79 08Email: salesagent.ist@adria.siAdria Airways Airport Ticket DeskAtatürk International Airport,Departure Level, IDL 38129 Yesilkoy –Istanbul / TURKEYTel: +90 212 465 55 15Fax: +90 212 465 55 16Mob: +90 0530 938 43 20E-mail: adr.istanbul@adria.siMOSCOWAdria AirwaysDerbenevskaja 4115 114 MoscowTel.: +7 495 727 08 85, 727 08 87Fax: +7 495 727 08 88E-mail: adr.moscow@adria.siAdria AirwaysSheremetyevo AirportTicket office Bohemia2nd floor of terminal FTicketing +7 903 5613645,e-mail: apt-svo@mail.ru,fax +7 495 578 8197Supervisor on duty +7 916 267 2395,e-mail: svokkjp@adria.siMUNICHProsimo, obrnite se na predstavništvov Frankfurtu.Please contact our office in Frankfurt.PODGORICAAdria Airways, General Sales AgentOki Air MontenegroIvana Vujoševića 4681000 PodgoricaTel. & Fax: +382 20 201 201, 201 202,241 154Mobil: +382 67 24 11 54E-mail: adr.podgorica@adria.si,okiair@oki.meAdria Airways Ticket OfficePodgorica AirportOKI AIR MontenegroTel. & Fax: +382 20 653074Mobil: +382 67 24 11 54E-mail: adr.podgorica@adria.siPRISTINAAdria AirwaysRr. Qamil Hoxha nr.12Tel: +381 38 246746Fax: +381 38 246 747Mob: + 377 44 165 084E-mail : adr.pristina@adria.siAdria Airways Airport Ticket DeskTel.: +381 (0) 38 548 437Fax: +381 (0) 38 548 437Mobile: +377 44 501 241SARAJEVOAdria Airways,General Sales AgentFerhadija 2371000 SarajevoTel.: +387 (0)33 23 21 25, 23 21 26Fax: +387 (0)33 23 36 92E-mail: adr.sarajevo@adria.siAdria Airways Airport Ticket DeskSarajevo International AirportTel. & Fax: +387 33 464 331SKOPJEAdria Airways, General Sales AgentAAM dooelUlica Dame Gruev, Gradski Zid, blok 4/81000 SkopjeTel.: +389 (0)2 31 17 009, 32 29 975Fax: +389 (0)2 31 65 531E-mail: adr.skopje@adria.siAdria Airways Airport Ticket OfficeSkopje AirportTel. +389 (0)2 25 50 133TEL AVIVAdria Airways, General Sales AgentMIRUS SERVICES LtdEL AL BUILDING32 Ben Yehuda Street8th Floor, Room 822Tel Aviv 63432Tel.: +972 (0)3 52 23 161Fax: +972 (0)3 52 40 895Adria Airways Ticket DeskBen Gurion AirportLaufer Aviation Ltd.Tel.: +972 (0)3 97 74 300Fax: +972 (0)3 97 12 022TIRANAAdria Airways, General Sales AgentEuropian Trade CenterStreet Bajram Curi 19Town OfficeTel.: +355 4 227 4666Tel. & Fax: +355 4 227 2666Mobil Off.: +355 6 94076614AirportTel. & Fax: +355 4 238 1911Mobil in Rinas Apt.: +355 6 94076611E-mail: adr.tirana@adria.siVERONAAdria Airways, Ticketing OfficeAIRPORT VALERIO CATULLO VERONADeparture AreaTel.: +390 45 8619 006Fax.: +390 45 8095 711e-mail: ticket@aeroportoverona.itVIENNAAdria Airways, General Sales AgentFligt Directors LufttransportvermittlungGes.m.b.HA-1300 Vienna AirportTel.: +43 (1) 879 8705Fax: +43 (1) 876 045311E-mail: pia.karlovic@adria.sip.karlovic@flightdirectors.atZÜRICHAdria AirwaysLoewenstrasse 54/II.8001 ZürichTel.: +41 (0)44 212 63 93Fax: +41 (0)44 212 52 66E-mail: adr.zurich@adria.siAdria Airways Airport Ticket OfficeZürich AirportTerminal B-2-521Tel.: +41 (0)43 81 64 437132

flyljubljanaNagrajujemo vašo zvestobo.Program flyljubljana omogoča udobnejša in ugodnejšapotovanja z Letališča Jožeta Pučnika Ljubljana. Brezplačno članstvo Ugodnejši letališki nakupi Udobnejša in ugodnejša letalska potovanja Posebne ponudbe izbranih partnerjev Nepozabna doživetjaPridružite se nam!Izpolnite spletno pristopnico na www.flyljubljana.si ali stelefonom poskenirajte kodo.Pristopnice so na voljo tudi na okencih za prijavo na let v odhodniavli na letališču.