heal<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> VIETNAMwhen it ra<strong>in</strong>s. Turns <strong>in</strong>to noth<strong>in</strong>g but mud. <strong>The</strong> tires can’t move at all. Hey,look it’s ra<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> the distance!” It did ra<strong>in</strong> cats and dogs — torrential,tropical, southeast-Asian ra<strong>in</strong>, for thirty-five m<strong>in</strong>utes. We were completelyfrozen, stuck <strong>in</strong> a muddy river the whole time, twelve <strong>of</strong> us tucked <strong>in</strong> ourlittle monastic van. We passed around boiled peanuts and rice cakes andpurified water. It was a beautiful storm, like a fever break<strong>in</strong>g, as the heatand humidity dropped.As soon as the ra<strong>in</strong> slowed, Sister Chan Khong (the one and only! thiswoman has lived!) said “Alright, let’s go. <strong>The</strong> kids are wait<strong>in</strong>g for us!” Ourpoor driver got us as far as he could, which was about a kilometer down theroad. We left the other two vans beh<strong>in</strong>d. Sister said, “Can’t drive any further.We walk!” and jumped out <strong>of</strong> the van. <strong>The</strong> sky had cleared by this time, andall the dusty vegetation had been r<strong>in</strong>sed clean and was glow<strong>in</strong>g with color.Muddy red earth, big gray sky.<strong>The</strong> walk was long and sticky. I almost lost a shoe at one po<strong>in</strong>t, so endedup barefoot <strong>in</strong> red mud — cool and fresh. Local kids <strong>in</strong> blue and red uniformswhizzed by us on motorbikes. A man on a motorbike stopped by, ask<strong>in</strong>g usif we needed a hand. Sister Chan Khong was all about it! This seventy-yearold <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese rock star just tucked up her robes and was <strong>of</strong>f.<strong>The</strong> rest <strong>of</strong> us walked up and down muddy hills through the brush. C<strong>of</strong>feeplants taller than men. Little kids jo<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g us, then peel<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong>f on t<strong>in</strong>y paths,presumably to their homes hidden among the plantlife and mist.At the school, s<strong>in</strong>ce we couldn’t br<strong>in</strong>g the gifts, a few people<strong>of</strong>fered crackers. Someone had a brick <strong>of</strong> cheese. We dumped whatwe had <strong>in</strong>to a cone hat and passed it around to the children, whoate with joy. In one <strong>of</strong> the poorest areas that Plum Village supports,these people are happy, function<strong>in</strong>g. <strong>The</strong>y don’t need plumb<strong>in</strong>g orcars <strong>in</strong> order to live.—Madel<strong>in</strong>e Dangerfield-ChaPowerful and Jubilant Alms RoundIn Bao Loc today, the alms round led by Thay <strong>in</strong> a blackHighlander — the Buddha-mobile — was powerful, jubilant!Two thousand monks and nuns passed through streets mobbed byold women, children, and families <strong>of</strong>fer<strong>in</strong>g toothpaste, medic<strong>in</strong>e,sweet treats, yogurt, fruit, and the traditional boiled rice wrapped<strong>in</strong> a banana leaf with sesame salt. <strong>The</strong> Western lay delegationstood on the sidel<strong>in</strong>es with <strong>Vietnam</strong>ese locals; we helped collectthe unbelievable excess <strong>of</strong> food, stuff<strong>in</strong>g it <strong>in</strong>to army sacks forlater donations.Top: Madel<strong>in</strong>e (on the left) with schoolchildren.12 Summer 2007A layfriend shares photos and smiles.Right: Sister Chan Khong at school, and on a motorbike.
heal<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> VIETNAMPhotos <strong>of</strong> the Great Ceremony <strong>in</strong> Ho Chi M<strong>in</strong>h City.Play<strong>in</strong>g with small children, we had our pictures taken by thelocals, who love tak<strong>in</strong>g photos <strong>of</strong> us. My friends Brant and Rayare both six feet four <strong>in</strong>ches — giants here <strong>in</strong> Asia. People run upto them and measure themselves, wav<strong>in</strong>g their hands over theirheads and match<strong>in</strong>g them up with the middle <strong>of</strong> Brant’s forearm.It’s hilarious.—Madel<strong>in</strong>e Dangerfield-Cha<strong>The</strong> First Great Requiem Ceremony<strong>Thich</strong> <strong>Nhat</strong> <strong>Hanh</strong> declares dur<strong>in</strong>g his Dharma talk at V<strong>in</strong>hNghiem Temple on this second day <strong>of</strong> ceremony that we willcont<strong>in</strong>ue to open the throats <strong>of</strong> hungry ghosts. Along with powerfulchants led by a chant master specializ<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> <strong>in</strong>vit<strong>in</strong>g spirits,the souls <strong>of</strong> those who died dur<strong>in</strong>g the war, whether as heroes, <strong>in</strong>prison, <strong>of</strong> sickness, on land or sea, will be purified by the compassionand energy <strong>of</strong> the Dharma.Day two beg<strong>in</strong>s with chants from the discourse on love, todetach the souls from the bodies. Everyone is requested to br<strong>in</strong>gthemselves wholeheartedly <strong>in</strong>to the chants and not disturb theenergy by mov<strong>in</strong>g around and tak<strong>in</strong>g pictures. First there is theBeg<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>g Anew gatha <strong>of</strong> forgiveness, lightness and freedom.From the depths <strong>of</strong> understand<strong>in</strong>g, with great emotion and steadfastness,the chants roar and pulsate throughout this huge temple.In the afternoon there is chant<strong>in</strong>g to <strong>in</strong>voke the presence <strong>of</strong> theMedic<strong>in</strong>e K<strong>in</strong>g, a previous <strong>in</strong>carnation <strong>of</strong> the Buddha. Led by thechant master, local traditional chants flow like a mighty river <strong>of</strong>heart-felt sound, non-stop for nearly two hours, echo<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>side andoutside among thousands <strong>in</strong> the courtyard. So many thousands<strong>of</strong> voices giv<strong>in</strong>g energy to the heal<strong>in</strong>g! Thay declares that as Beg<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>gAnew transforms our hearts and those <strong>of</strong> the loved onesdeparted, the nightmare <strong>of</strong> the <strong>Vietnam</strong> War is over. <strong>The</strong> squashand the pumpk<strong>in</strong> co-exist peacefully on the same v<strong>in</strong>e.In the even<strong>in</strong>g we <strong>in</strong> the lay sangha are amazed to becomepart <strong>of</strong> the lotus lamp ceremony. <strong>The</strong> procession l<strong>in</strong>e forms, withcolorful umbrellas, flags, and other ceremonial poles. I standnear the beg<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>g with my palms together to show respect to themonastics as they file by. As Thay arrives, look<strong>in</strong>g over at me, hesmiles. Rais<strong>in</strong>g his hand, he waves, wiggl<strong>in</strong>g his f<strong>in</strong>gers <strong>in</strong> a cutegesture. I return the wave and smile. As our lay sangha follows,fil<strong>in</strong>g through a narrow open<strong>in</strong>g, we pass shr<strong>in</strong>es and a wish<strong>in</strong>gwell altar. <strong>The</strong> people <strong>of</strong>fer us lotus bows and big smiles.This even<strong>in</strong>g is lit with spotlights, colored lanterns, the boom<strong>in</strong>gsounds <strong>of</strong> a big drum, cymbals, and bells, accompany<strong>in</strong>g chantsfrom the monastics and crowd. After a half-hour <strong>of</strong> wait<strong>in</strong>g, ourl<strong>in</strong>e is ushered quickly past attendants who <strong>of</strong>fer us hand-madepaper lotuses conta<strong>in</strong><strong>in</strong>g candles. Circl<strong>in</strong>g the temple, we glow, abeautiful candle-lit lane await<strong>in</strong>g the chant master. More monastics,an entourage <strong>of</strong> musicians and traditionally dressed youngwomen pass, smil<strong>in</strong>g. We follow them to the Saigon River beh<strong>in</strong>dthe temple, pass<strong>in</strong>g by big, bow<strong>in</strong>g crowds. We place our glow<strong>in</strong>glotuses <strong>in</strong>to the river where they float like beacons to light the soulslost <strong>in</strong> darkness — that they may jo<strong>in</strong> us dur<strong>in</strong>g this transformativeheal<strong>in</strong>g and reconciliation ceremony.<strong>The</strong> dead have been <strong>in</strong>vited to the temple to beg<strong>in</strong> anew withus. On day three Thay states that this is the largest such ceremonyever <strong>in</strong> <strong>Vietnam</strong> — an action <strong>of</strong> love to br<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong>dividuals, families,and the nation <strong>in</strong>to harmony and peace. We jo<strong>in</strong> <strong>in</strong> unty<strong>in</strong>g knots<strong>of</strong> <strong>in</strong>justice for all be<strong>in</strong>gs. Thay <strong>of</strong>fers prayers for those who losttheir precious bodies, that through our consciouness, they mightbe healed. Thay helps the audience understand how to walk andbreathe as he does, with the energy <strong>of</strong> lightness and freedom.Sister Chan Khong s<strong>in</strong>gs a song <strong>of</strong> Beg<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>g Anew, teach<strong>in</strong>git to the audience. With tears <strong>in</strong> their eyes, they s<strong>in</strong>g along. Greed,anger, passion, and ignorance are <strong>of</strong>fered a chance to transform.People comfort one another. A large <strong>in</strong>door screen projects thecrowd’s faces <strong>of</strong> regret, forgiveness, and hope. Thay tells us thateven the Communist party has admitted their mistakes <strong>of</strong> tak<strong>in</strong>gland and kill<strong>in</strong>g so many, although they refer to it as a correctionrather than Beg<strong>in</strong>n<strong>in</strong>g Anew. Everyone learns that once the m<strong>in</strong>dis purified there is no trace <strong>of</strong> past unskillfulness, no guilt, no s<strong>in</strong>.Sitt<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> the spr<strong>in</strong>g breeze, teacher and students are happy as afamily.—David Nelsonthe M<strong>in</strong>dfulness Bell 13