GastroPosljednju preobrazu doživjela je prošle godine, kad su joj arhitekti Tomislav Kroflin iEdita Geci dali moderno ruho/The last transformation occurred last year when architectsTomislav Kroflin and Edita Geci gave it a modern image60atic, between two historic fortresses of St. Ivan andŠubićevac, where over one hundred years chosenguests repeatedly discover sweet secrets of old fishermen.They had inspired the third generation owner, Mr. ŠimeŠupa, who several decades ago created some of themost known “Uzorita”‘s fish specialities. As he says hisguest are coming mostly by a recommendation and itis usually about well known names from business world;occasional chance guests are very rare.An ambience is in full accord with a menu. A spirit ofKornati supremely rules in every corner of the restaurant“Uzorita“. Founded back in 1898 at the beginningit was a favorite picnic destination of Šibenik people.A little house made of hand carved Dalmatian stoneunder the wing of Šupe family gradually developed ina wine-cellar and during seventies of the last centuryrenovated in the restaurant. The last transformation occurredlast year when architects Tomislav Kroflin andEdita Geci gave it a modern image but in the sametime kept a tradition within the interior.In the first part of the restaurant designed as the classicDalmatian wine-cellar, natural materials, especiallystone, dominate. Discrete lightning, rustic furniture and
Dalmatian harmony singing group music are, of course,inevitable part of an atmoshpere. Here we have aprevailing winter atmosphere so they built a summerterrace, which is from the restaurant’s older part separatedby gliding glass wall and covered by vine. In thatway, the restaurant got additional tables and desiredsummer part.In spite its pure lines and minimal colours the interiorof “Uzorita” is not rigid at all. Stinginess and coldness,sometimes seen in modern designed ambiences, areovercome at the very beginning through preservationof Dalmatian “touch”, so that here, along with all fansof tradition, those who prefer modern design and hatetrash will also feel cosy.It could be said that a principle of “naturally concentratedquality” dominates at “Uzorita” in every sense.Namely, as well as the attention has been strictly paidto choose the best natural materials and simple design,the same principle was applied in creating the permanentannual menu.Simplicity is, therefore, a measure of all things in thesmall connoisseur’s universe. At “Uzorita” there is no“massing over the plate”, shrugging of shoulders, boringsighing or possible leftovers on the plate. Here wehave an appreciation for thoroughness.Only here one could taste specialities as jelly of octopusand shelves, which are seasoned by the “Uzorita”’scooks only with salt and paper-corn, olive oil and winevinegar. Meat sticks you can eat anywhere but sticks ofsea food only at “Uzorita”. As shelves by themselves donot have a particular “character“, as Šime Šupe used tosay, they should be garnished by prosciutto and panceta(Dalmatian bacon), of course. “Maništron” of cuttle fishas well as of frog-fish will be gladly tasted by those wholike pasta and eggplants filled with shrimps by those wholike to experiment. Šibenik mussels are widely famous forbeing a powerful aphrodisiac. Filled squids, grey mullet,sea-bass, gilthead, dentex, grooper, surmullets, goldlin,mackerel, bonito – a whole richness of Croatian underseayou will find in the “Uzorita“‘s kitchen.In order to ensure for their guests the best and the mostfresh from the nature, Šime Šupe and his son Toni, whois for the last few years a head of the restaurant, put inmultiple efforts. For years they keep their own fish-farmfor fish and shelves, their own vineyards and olive trees. Agood fish is always accompanied by quality wine, thereforeat “Uzorita“ they will gladly offer their own wines ofwell known sorts of grapes Marastina, Debit, Plavina andBabić. And, of course, inevitable domestic brandy.There is hardly a surprise that for the last thirty years“Uzorita“ won more than forty various awards and recognitions.The restaurant is for a long time included inedition of “100 the best Croatian restaurants“, and dueto its innovative kitchen every year wins a jug on culinarycontests. It is only a question of time when Mr ŠimeŠupe will create more new delicacies...61