13.07.2015 Views

to view pdf file of current issue - Wing World Magazine Archives

to view pdf file of current issue - Wing World Magazine Archives

to view pdf file of current issue - Wing World Magazine Archives

SHOW MORE
SHOW LESS
  • No tags were found...

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

YUMPU automatically turns print PDFs into web optimized ePapers that Google loves.

ikes are in very close proximity. But if that’sthe case, it’s quite normal.Stu’91 Gold <strong>Wing</strong> SEStu, there was an article in <strong>Wing</strong> <strong>World</strong> afew months back that talked about what <strong>to</strong> do<strong>to</strong> get the but<strong>to</strong>ns on the handle bars <strong>to</strong> keepthem from sticking. For example, the cautionbut<strong>to</strong>n, cruse but<strong>to</strong>n. What was your recommendationon that? Any particular spray/cleaner?Thanks.Via email, Russell DrollingerRussell, my recommendation is <strong>to</strong> lube thehandlebar switch but<strong>to</strong>ns with aerosol siliconelube at each oil change. But<strong>to</strong>ns used frequentlyshouldn’t need this service, but thoseused infrequently such as the hazard lightswitch will definitely benefit.Stu2002 Gold <strong>Wing</strong> Won’t StartStu, I have a 2002 GL1800 with over250,000 miles on it. Recently, the followingproblem has been occurring: After it has sa<strong>to</strong>vernight, it doesn’t want <strong>to</strong> start. It will turnover and over but won’t start. Then it will startand do great for a few weeks, then it happensagain.It has always been at home, so I’ve beenlucky. Please tell us what <strong>to</strong> look for.ThanksBill New<strong>to</strong>nGWRRA #178472Springfield, KentuckyBill, with only the information supplied, myfirst inclination would be <strong>to</strong> examine the battery.Considering that temperatures nationwidehave fallen recently, your recent discovery<strong>of</strong> the problem points <strong>to</strong> a weak battery. Aweakened battery will spin the GL1800 overjust fine, but the voltage during cranking willdrop <strong>to</strong> a level insufficient <strong>to</strong> keep the fuelinjection relay closed. The symp<strong>to</strong>m will worsenin cool weather due <strong>to</strong> a natural reductionin battery performance and thickened oil.StuTwo Issues...One a Nuisance,One Safety-RelatedHey Stu, I’ve learned a lot from reading yourcolumns over the years, but I’ve never seenthese two <strong>issue</strong>s addressed. The first is what Iwould call a “nuisance <strong>issue</strong>”, and the secondis <strong>of</strong> a more serious, safety-related nature, as itaffects my tail lights and instruments. Both <strong>of</strong>these problems are on my ’93 Aspencade with85,000 miles.The “nuisance <strong>issue</strong>” is what started as abalky OD dash light when shifting in<strong>to</strong> fifthgear. Sometimes it would come on. Othertimes it would come on after riding in fifth fora while then, finally, it s<strong>to</strong>pped working al<strong>to</strong>gether.I checked the resistance reading at the connec<strong>to</strong>rbehind the right fairing, as per the shopmanual. I got an ohms reading for each gearbut, frankly, don’t remember what they were.(That was last winter, and I just enjoyed ridingit without the light.)I thought that it might be a stickingplunger-type switch that needed some WD-40until I read the manual. Any suggestions? Ifneed be, this winter I’ll remove the water pumpand front cover <strong>to</strong> get <strong>to</strong> the switch.The second problem is the main/tail relay.The original failed around 50,000 miles. Nobig deal. Back then the dealer had them ins<strong>to</strong>ck.Everything worked fine for all <strong>of</strong> theseyears and miles then it failed again. They areno longer s<strong>to</strong>cked so, after the two-week waitand $30 cost, I installed the new relay. It lastedabout two hours!I recently saw in print that the 1500s had“relay problems”. I had never heard this beforebut, clearly, I have a relay problem!Any ideas, comments, or suggestions?Have you run across anything like this?Dave CowgillGWRRA #132946Clay<strong>to</strong>n, DelawareDave, I agree with your proposed actionregarding the gear selec<strong>to</strong>r switch. Regardingthe relay, your problem may not be with therelay but with the electrical load <strong>to</strong> which it’sbeing subjected. Addition <strong>of</strong> lights or otherelectrical accessories could overload the relayand reduce its service life. A short circuit couldrender it useless quite quickly, but that conditionshould cause a fuse <strong>to</strong> pop before damageoccurs. Insure that none <strong>of</strong> your bike’s fuseshave been replaced with ones <strong>of</strong> higher thanstandard capacity.StuWhich Gold <strong>Wing</strong> Seat?Stu I just purchased a Gold <strong>Wing</strong> andwanted <strong>to</strong> see what seat is most liked—s<strong>to</strong>ck,Ultimate seat, or Corbin?Via email, Ken CatesKen, there’s a butt for every seat. And itseems there’s a seat for every butt. Many wouldlike a mo<strong>to</strong>rcycle seat <strong>to</strong> provide the kind <strong>of</strong>long-term comfort <strong>of</strong>fered by the best car seats.But those things are much larger and thickerthan would be possible <strong>to</strong> mount on a mo<strong>to</strong>rcycle.Bear in mind, one couldn’t even sit inhis/her favorite easy chair for ten hours a daywithout experiencing some discomfort. Thingssuch as arm length, body weight and shape,inseam dimensions, the rider’s posture, and thebike’s ergonomics play a role in how comfortableany seat feels <strong>to</strong> a particular rider in thelong term. So what’s comfortable for me (or40 <strong>Wing</strong> <strong>World</strong>

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!