30r364 boek.qxd:awards book 11 - Prince Claus Fund

Interpretation and Transformationby Viktor & RolfWhat does fashion mean in a time when catwalk trends materialise in high-street fashion chainsfaster than they can be made available by the designers who dreamt them up? When everyseason a ‘revolution’ is expected? What is a design worth when every stylish person can make a‘fashion’ collection under their own name? These days, information is accessible and absorbedinstantly by means of the internet, erasing all mystification. The fashion system answers byspeeding up rapidly, increasing the amount of collections, shows and trends, with the added needto compete as a side effect. We expressed our feelings about these developments in our A/W2008-09 show by saying ‘No’ to these queries.It is our strong belief that creativity is our weapon to transform anything into somethingpositive and beautiful, and that there can be no beauty without meaning. It is the reason we feela strong connection to Ma Ke and her work. She is trying to create something of lasting worthwith the WUYONG Collection.Ma Ke graduated from the Suzhou Institute of Silk Textile Technology in 1992. Four years later,in 1996, she launched her own label: Exception de Mixmind. Exception de Mixmind is an elegant,minimalist and wearable collection. With this collection she takes a stand against the ready-towearmass market and against the underpaying of workers. “China can do more than just producemass clothing. Mass produced clothing is useless and unnecessary.” Globalisation has broughtold Chinese traditional craftsmanship almost to extinction. Ma Ke believes a designer has theresponsibility to keep the old traditions, cultural diversity and aesthetic qualities alive. Ma Kespeaks of an ecological and an ethical responsibility and the responsibility for preserving andpassing on cultural heritage.In 2006 Ma Ke launched a new label: WUYONG (literally ‘useless’). The main theme of all thecollections she designs for this label is recycling and sustainability – both in production and inthe post-purchase life of the garment. Ma Ke takes discarded items such as an old paint-coveredsheet and transforms it into a dress, the cracked paint creating a beautiful pattern on the garment;an old tarpaulin is constructed into a coat of magnificent volume. Recycled objects and foundfabrics are manipulated into dramatic shapes to create an unusual mix of nomadic, almost utili -tarian ‘suits’ alongside elaborate, voluminous ultra-modern creations. For Ma Ke, this focus onpersonal interpretation and transformation is a way of highlighting the importance of the individualand the inestimable value of life. She explains: “The WUYONG collection made me reflect on China’ssocial realities, not to mention history, memory, consumerism, inter-personal relation ships andthe rise and fall of industrial production.” The documentary Wu Yong, made by Jia Zhangke, followsthe progress of creating the collection WUYONG and the launch in Paris during the Paris FashionWeek in 2007. Ma Ke won the Elle Style Award in 2007 for Best Asian Fashion Designer with hercollection WUYONG. The film based on her work was nominated for the Horizons DocumentaryPrize at the Venice International Film Festival 2008 and has won several other prizes.The collection WUYONG is sometimes regarded as ‘anti-fashion’. We however believe thatdesigners should always investigate and question ‘fashion’ and its role in modern society.To us, fashion is more than just cloth and form, it is an aura. Ma Ke is inspired by the concept thatfashion, as a universal language, can communicate more than colour and form alone. Her highlyaesthetic and superbly crafted designs highlight complex interactions between clothing, cultureand environmental awareness, and show her commitment to beauty and humanity. We stronglysupport the presentation of the Prince Claus Award to Ma Ke.642008 Prince Claus Awards